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THE MIDDLE STATES: 



HANDBOOK FOE TEATELLERS. 



A GUIDE TO 



TKE CHIEF CITIES AND POPULAR RESORTS OF THE MIDDLE STATES, 

AND TO THEIR SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS; WITH 

THE NORTHERN FRONTIER FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO 

MONTREAL ; ALSO, BALTIMORE, WASHINGTON, 

AND NORTHERN VIRGINIA. 



Witft Seven Maps and Fifteen JPlans, 



fc ^ 




j^wdssa. 




BOSTON: 

JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 

Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 

1876. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, 

BY JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 

in the Office of the Libraxian of Congress, at Washington. 



o'' 



I 

PEEFACE 



The chief object of the Handbook for the Middle States is to 
supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides 
cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the great- 
est possible amount of pleasure and information while passing 
through the most populous and wealthy States of the American 
Union. The Middle States have hitherto been but casually 
treated in books which cover wider sections of country ; and 
special localities within their borders have been described with 
more or less fidelity in local guide-books ; but the present vol- 
ume is the first which has been devoted to their treatment 
according to the most approved principles of the European 
works of similar purpose and character. The Handbook is de- 
signed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable 
places in the Middle States, with economy of money, time, and 
temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descrip- 
tions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and 
plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes 
of the histories of the old river and border towns, statements 
of the prmcipal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and 
architecture of the cities, biographical sketches in connection 
with the birthplaces of eminent men, and statistics of the chief 
industries of the included States. The half-forgotten but worthy 
and heroic records of the early Swedish, Dutch, French, Quaker, 
and Puritan colonies, and their wars and traditions, have re- 
ceived special attention in connection with the localities made 
famous in those remote days ; while numerous Indian legends 
will be found in various places. The military operations of the 



iv PREFACE. 

Wars of the Eevolution, of 1812, and of the Rebellion (so far as 
they affected this section of the RepuLlic) have been carefully 
studied and localized ; and the rise of the great inland cities has 
been traced and recorded. Tlie famous summer resorts — 
among the mountains and by the lakes and sea — with which 
the Middle States abound, and which are thronged by visitors 
from all parts of the country, have been described at lengtlf 
in these pages. 

The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment 
and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the Euroj)ean 
Handljooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and 
system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence 
the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which 
have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been 
attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning 
the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or 
veritied from the Editoi-'s persomd experience, after a long period 
of incessant travelling for this express purpose. The maps and 
plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and are 
based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with 
figures corresponding to similar figures attached to lists of the 
chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and other notable objects. 
The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are believed 
by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant. Trust- 
worthy railroad time-tables are found in the " Travellers Official 
Guide " (with numerous maps) published monthly at Philadel- 
phia. 

Infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especially 
amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, 
and hence the Editor will be grateful for any bo7ia fide correc- 
tions or suggestions with which travellers or residents may 
furnish him. He would also thankfully acknowledge his indebt- 
edness to the gentlemen who have revised the book in advance 
of publication. 

M. F. SWEETSER, 
Editor of Osgood's American Handbooks, 
131 Franklin St., Boston. 



CONTENTS. 



PAOE 

NEW YORK xi 

PENNSYLVANIA xil 

NEW JERSEY xiv 

DELAWARE xv 

MARYLAND xv 

I. Monet and Travelling Expenses 1 

II. Railroads and Steamboats. The Check Ststem .... 1 

m. Excursions on Foot 2 

IV. Hotels 3 

V. Rocnd-Trip Excursions 4 

VI, Climate and Dress 4 

Vn. Miscellaneous Notes 4 

THE MIDDLE STATES. 
route 

1. New York City 5 

Metropolitan Museum of Art 23 

Manhattanville. Carmansville 26 

Fifth Avenue 28 

Central Park 32 

The East River 35 

Jersey City 38 

2. Brooklyn 38 

Prospect Park 42 

Greenwood Cemetery 43 

Coney Island • 44 

3. Staten Island 45 

The Fortifications of New York 46 

4. The South Shore of Long Island 46 

Rockaway Beach. Fire Island 47 

5. Long Island. The North and East Shores 48 

Port Jefferson. Islip 51 

Montauk Point 53 

Greenport. Shelter Island 54 

6. Long Island. The Northwest Shore 66 



vi CONTENTS 

route page 

7. New York to Vermont. The Harlem Route 58 

Lake Mahopac 59 

Lebauoa Springs 61 

8. The Hudson River. New York to Troy 62 

The Palisades 63 

Yonkers. Dobbs' Ferry 64 

The Tappan Zee 65 

Sunnsyyide. Tarrytown 66 

Nyack. Sing-Sing 68 

Haverstraw. Stony Point 69 

The Dunderberg. Peekskill 70 

West Point 72 

Storm King. Cornwall. Newburgh 76 

Poughkeeijsie. Vassar College 79 

Rondout. Overlook Mountain 81 

Hudson 83 

Albany 85 

Troy 88 

9. The Catskill Mountains 90 

Palenville 92 

10. Albany to Montreal 93 

Saratoga Springs 94 

11. Lake George 103 

12. Lake Champlain. Whitehall to Montreal 110 

Fort Ticonderoga Ill 

Crown Point 114 

Burlington 118 

Ausable Chasm. Pittsburgh 118 

13. Montreal 121 

14. Lake Champlain to OgdensburQ 126 

Malone to Paul Smith's .127 

15. Ogdensburg to Ottawa 128 

The Ottawa River 132 

16. Saratoga to the Schroon and Raquette Lakes 133 

Schroou Lake 134 

17. Schroon Lake to the Southern Adirondacks 136 

18. Plattsburgh to the Saranac Lakes 138 

Martin's. Paul Smith's 139 

19. Port Kent to the AVilmington Pass and Saranac Lakes . . . 140 

20. Westport to the Saranac Lakes 141 

Keene Valley 142 

Ausable Ponds 143 

Mount Marcy 144 

21. The Saranac Lakes. Marten's to Cox's and Paul Smith's . . 146 

22. The Saranac Lakes to the Tupper Lakes 147 

23. The Saranac Lakes to Raquette Lake 149 

24. XJtica to the St. Lawrence River. Trenton Falls and the John 

Brown Tract .152 



CONTENl'S. vii 

ROUTE PAGK 

Trenton Falls I53 

The John Brown Tract I55 

Sackett's Harbor 158 

25. Rome to Ogdensbcrg and Alexandria Bat 159 

Watertown to Cape Vincent 160 

26. New York to Utica, Rochester, and Niagara Falls .... 161 

Fonda to Gloversville and Lake Pleasant 163 

Utica I6fj 

Syracuse 163 

Rochester 171 

Rochester to Buflfe,lo 175 

27. Niagara Falls 177 

Queenston. St. Catharine's 185 

28. Niagara Falls to Toronto and Montreal. Lake Ontario and the St. 

Lawrence River 187 

The Thousand Islands 193 

29. Syracuse to Rochester 200 

Canandaigua to Buffalo and Niagara 203 

30. Cayuga Lake and Ithaca 203 

31. Seneca Lake and Watkins Glen 208 

The Havana Glen 211 

Seneca Lake 212 

32. New York to Oswego 214 

Montclair Division 214 

Utica and Rome Divisions 216 

33. New York to Elmira, Buffalo, and Nlagara Falls .... 219 

Northern R. R. of New Jersey 219 

Hackensack Branch 220 

Rochester Division 229 

Buffalo Division 232 

Buffalo 233 

Lake Shore R. R 236 

34. New York to Ohio 237 

35. New York to Scranton and Oswego 238 

Morris and Essex Division 239 

Delaware Water Gap , , 242 

Richfield Springs 247 

36. New York to Central Pennstlvanu and the West .... 249 

37. New York to Philadelphu 254 

38 Philadelphia 262 

Post-Office. Independence Hall 269 

Phila. Library 270 

Penn. Hospital. Historical Society 271 

Masonic Temple 276 

Eastern Penitentiary. Girard College 277 

Navy-Yard. Moyamensing 279 

Fairmount Park 280 

The \Yissahickon. Laurel Hill 284 



viii CONTENTS. 

KOOTE PAGE 

Germantown. Chestnut Hill 285 

Frankford Arsenal. Camden. Fort Mifflin 286 

39. Philadelphia to New York . . 287 

Freehold. Monmouth 288 

40. New York to Long Branch and the Delaware Bat . . . .289 

Long Branch 289 

Navesink Highlands. Tuckerton 291 

41. Philadelphia to Long Branch and New York 293 

42. Philadelphia to Atlantic City 294 

43. Philadelphia to Cape May 295 

44. Philadelphia to the Delaware Water Gap, Scrauton, and Oswego 298 

46. PHttADELPHIA TO CENTRAL NeW YORK 300 

Bethlehem 301 

Mauch Chunk 307 

The Valley of Wyoming 312 

Sayre to Lake Ontario 319 

46. Philadelphu to Saratoga and Montreal 319 

Cooperstown 323 

Otsego Lake , . 325 

Sharon Springs .326 

47. Philadelphia to Reading and Williamsport 330 

The SchuylkiU Coal-Fields 334 

The Catawissa R. R 335 

48. Reading to Columbia 336 

49. Reading to Wilmington 337 

60. New York and Philadelphu to Harrisbcrg, Pittsburgh, and the 

West 338 

Lancaster 341 

Harrisburg 342 

Lewstown Division 346 

Huntingdon to Bedford Springs 347 

Bald Eagle Valley 348 

HolHdaysburg, etc 349 

The Allegheny Mountains 350 

Pittsburgh 353 

Pittsburgh to the West ' 357 

51. Pittsburgh to Titusville and Buffalo. The Penn. Ott Regions . 357 

52. Pittsburgh to Erie 361 

53. Pittsburgh to Wheeling 363 

54. Pittsburgh to Cumberland 364 

55. Philadelphia to Erie 365 

Lock Haven. Renovo 368 

Erie 370 

56. Philadelphu to Buffalo 371 

57. Harrisburg to the Valley of Wyoming 372 

58. Harrisburg to Carlisle akd Martinsburg. The Combeeland Valley 373 

59. Philadelphia to Gettysburg 377 

The Battle of Gettysburg 380 



I 



CONTENTS. ix 



lOCTE PAGE 

60. Baltimore to Central New York 382 

Mianequa Springs. Watkins Glen. Keuka Lake 383 

61. Philadelphia to Port Deposit 385 

62. Philadelphia to Wilmington and Baltimore 386 

63. Wilmington to Lewes and Crisfield. The State of Delaware . 390 

Wilmington 390 

I 64. Baltimore 394 

' City Hall. Battle Monument 397 

Athenaeum. Masonic Temple. Cathedral 398 

Washington Monument. Peabody Institute 399 

Druid Hill Park 402 

65. Baltimore to the West 406 

The Battles of South Mountain and Antietam 409 

The Shenandoah Valley 410 

Berkeley Springs 411 

Deer Park Hotel. Cheat River Valley 413 

West Virginia 414 

66. Baltimore to Washington 415 

Annapolis 416 

67. Baltimore to Washington 419 

( 68. New York to Washington 420 

I 69. Washington 420 

I The Capitol 426 

* Smithsonian Institution 432 

Post-Office. Patent-Office 436 

Model-Rooms. Army Medical Museum ....... 437 

Treasury. Executive Mansion 439 

Lafayette Square. Corcoran Gallery of Art 440 

i70. The Environs of Washington 444 
Georgetown 446 
Great Falls 447 

Arlington . 448 

Alexandria 449 

Mount Vernon 450 



[ndex to Localities 453 

Index to Historical Allusions 466 

Index to Biographical Allusions 467 

Index to Quotations 467 

Index to Railroads 468 

Index to Steamboats 469 



MAPS. 

/ 

1. Railroad Map of the Middle States : Front Pocket. 

2. Topographical Map of the Adirondack Mountains and J 

Lakes : Back pocket. 

3. Map of the Catskill Mountains : fronting page 90. 

4. Map of the Hudson River : between pages 62 and 63. 
6. Map of Long Island : between pages 48 and 49. 

6. Map of the Environs op New York : between pages 38 and 39. ■ 

7. Map of the Environs of Philadelphia: between pages 284 and 2S5. 



PLANS OF CITIES, etc. 

1. Baltimore : between pages 394 and 395. 

2. Brooklyn : between pages 38 and 39. 

3. Buffalo : between pages 232 and 233. 

4. Central Park : between pages 32 and 33. 

5. Greenwood Cemetery : between pages 42 and 43. 

6. MoNTRE-VL : between pages 120 and 121. 

7. New York City : between pages 4 and 5 

8. Niagara Falls : facing page 177. 

9. Ottawa : between pages 128 and 129. 

10. Philadelphia : between pages 262 and 263. 

11. Pittsburgh : between pages 352 and 363. 

12. Rochester : between pages 170 and 171. 

13. Saratoga : between pages 94 and 95. 

14. Toronto : between pages 186 and 187. 

15. Washington : between pages 418 and 419. 



ABBREVIATIONS 

N. — North, northern, etc. 
S. — South, etc. 
E. — East, etc. 
W. — West, etc. 
M. — Mile, or miles. 



r. — right. 

1. — left. 

ft. — foot, or feet. 

hr. — hour. 

min. — minute, or minutes. 



Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. 



THE MIDDLE STATES. 



New York. 

" The Empire State " is bounded on the N. by Lake Ontario and the 
Province of Ontario, on the E. by the States of Vermont, Massachusetts, 
and Connecticut, on the S. by the Atlantic Ocean and the States of New 
Jersey and Pennsylvania, and on the W. by Pennsylvania, Lake Erie, and 
the Niagara River. It covers 47,000 square miles, and is divided into 60 
counties, with 930 towns and 22 cities; and the population is 4,382,759, 
with 823,484 voters (census of 1870), making it the most populous State 
of the Republic. 1,138,353 of the inhabitants are foreign-bom. The 
manufacturing interests are of great extent and variety, and in 1865 re- 
ported 24,530 establishments, employing 206,166 persons and $ 227,674,187 
of capital, and producing annually $457,133,717 worth of goods. Tlie 
commerce of New York is larger tlian that of any other State, and is 
slowly recovering from the crushing blows inflicted by the Anglo-Rebel 
privateers, which reduced its tonnage of 921,983 in 1862 to 471,473 tons 
in 1865. New York City is the only important ocean-port, and is the 
commercial metropolis of the Western Hemisphere, The lake ports 
(Oswego, Buffalo, Geneva, etc.) have an enrolled tonnage of over 312,000 
tons. There are 167 insurance companies, and savings-banks with de- 
posits amounting to nearly $ 200,000,000. The immense railroad systems 
connected with the N. Y. Central & Hudson River and the Erie com- 
panies cover most of the inhabited counties ^\dth their tracks, and the 
canals (which are under the care of the State) transport vast quantities of 
provisions and miscellaneous goods. 

The State Census of 1865 reported 60 religious sects, Avith 5,388 church 
edifices, valued (together with their land) at over $ 50,000,000, with a 
membership of 741,831, and an average attendance of 1,070,662. The 
Methodist Church greatly preponderates in numerical strength ; and the 
Presbyterians and Baptists come next. The Episcopal Church has great 
wealth and influence; and the Roman Catholics exercise a controlling 
power in the chief city of the State. 

Tlie military force consists of 24,285 citizens, enrolled in 8 divisions, 
consisting of 39 regiments, 10 battalions, 7 troops, and 11 batteries. The 
term of service is 7 years, during which the men are exempt from jury- 



xii PENNSYLVANIA. 

duty and receive pay for the 6 annual drills and the summer encampments. 
Behind this disciplined and mobilized force is the immense strength of the 
Reserve Militia, which is liable to be called into service in time of na- 
tional peril. During the Secession War (1861 - 65) the military strength 
of the State was displayed in a remarkable degree, and there were sent 
thence to the scene of war: 26 regiments of cavahy ; 17 regiments, 3 bat- 
talions, and 34 batteries of artillery; 4 regiments of engineers; and 194 
regiments of infantry (mostly for three years' service). 

The present territory of New York State was discovered in 1609 by 
Henry Hudson (of the Dutch East India Company) on the Hudson 
River side; and by Samuel de Champlaiu, the French Governor of Canada, 
on the Lake Champlain side. Dutch trading-posts were established in 
1613 and 1614, and the country was named the New Netherlands. Large 
immigrations of Hollanders soon occupied the Hudson River Valley, and 
in 1664 the country was conquered by a British fleet, and was named New 
York. Thenceforth for nearly a century the new province was engaged 
in almost constant warfare with the French in Canada, being aided by 
the powerful Indian confederacy of the Six Nations. But a short time 
after the Conquest of Canada New York entered the new American Re- 
public and became a powerful member of the Union. Much of the Revo- 
lutionary contest was carried on within its borders, and its chief city was 
occupied for 7 years by the royal forces. Since the beginning of the 
present century the growth and development of the State have been rapid 
and healthy, and it is now tlie foremost of the United States. 

Pennsylvania. 

" The Keystone State " is bounded on the N. by Lake Erie and the 
State of New York, on the E. by New York and New Jersey, on the S. by 
Delaware, Maryland, and West Virginia, and on the W. by West Vir- 
ginia and Ohio. It is crossed from N. E. to S. W. by the Allegheny Mts. 
in a belt 200 M. wide, which is occupied by long pai'allel ridges separated 
by narrow and picturesque valleys. The extensive districts which are 
included in the limestone valleys are among the most fertile in the Repub- 
lic, and are densely populated by agricultural populations (mostly of 
Germanic origin). The State derives its chief importance from the great 
mines of coal and iron which are scattered throughout the hill-country ; 
and the aggregate of its iron manufactures is of great value, and is con- 
stantly increasing. Between 1840 and 1870 (inclusive) over 200,000,000 
tons of anthracite coal were mined here, besides immense quantities of 
bituminous coal in the Western counties. The petroleum trade is of more 
recent development, and between 1860 and 1870 (inclusive) there were 
produced 35,430,217 barrels of petroleum, a large portion of which was 
exported. Marble, copper, zinc, salt, and saltpetre are also found in large 



PENNSYLVANIA. xiii 

quantities. Varied and extensive manufactures are carried on at Phila- 
delphia, Pittsburgh, and other of the chief cities. Since the State has no 
ocean-front, its commerce is small in comi:)arison with that of New York 
or Massachusetts; but a lucrative transatlantic and coasting trade is 
centring in Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh commands a considerable share 
of the commerce of the Ohio River. The railroad system is at present 
composed of several first-class lines (controlled by the Penn. R. R.), and 
will be quite complete when the roads which are now in actual process of 
construction are finished. 

Pennsylvania has 3,521,791 inhabitants. It covers 44,317 square miles, 
and is divided into 65 counties, 1,471 towns, 417 boroughs, and 19 cities. 
It is claimed that the climate is milder than that of New York, except on 
the northern plateaus, whose mean temperature is nearly as low as that 
of Southern New England (which is on the same latitude). 

The census of 1860 reported in Pennsylvania 40 religious sects, with 
6,337 churches valued at $22,581,479 (one church for every 543 inhabi- 
tants). The Methodists, as usual, are very far in the majority, next to 
whom come the Lutherans, Presbyterians, German Reformed, and Bap- 
tists. There are numerous quaint sects of Germanic origin, wliose names 
are seldom heard elsewhere in America, — Moravians, Dunkards, Amish, 
Mennonites, etc. 

The military organization of the State is less elaborate than that of 
some other of the Eastern States, but is capable of tremendous action in 
time. The first Northern troops who reached imperilled Washington in 
1861 were Pennsylvanians ; and during the Secession War the State fur- 
nished to the national government 362,284 soldiers, exclusive of the 
powerful levies from the local militia for the repiilse of the rebel in- 
vasions. 

The shores of the Delaware Avere settled before 1640 by Swedes and 
Finns, who were subjugated in 1655 by the Dutch from New York. In 
1664 the land was taken by the British, and in 1681 was granted by King 
Charles II. to William Penn, and tlie new domain was named Pennsyl- 
vania (the Penn Forest, Penn's Woods, or as the grantee preferred to 
understand, "The Mountain Forest," — from the Welsh word, Pen, a. 
mountain, and the Latin Sylva, a forest). Penn soon came to his new 
estates, and founded the city of Philadelphia. An honorable peace was 
concluded with the Indian tribes and the colony grew rapidly, receiving 
large accessions of English and Welsh Friends. After the year 1700 be- 
gan the great Germanic immigration which slowly pressed out or sub- 
merged the English Quaker settlements in the rural counties, which are 
still occupied by the conservative and unassimilated myriads of the 
" Pennsylvania Dutch." The State took a prominent part in the Revolu- 
tionary War (though the Quaker citizens were generally opposed to the 



xiv NEW JERSEY. 

imiependenoe of AnicriMV and scvoi'al desperate battles were fcnight on 
hex soil. The Whiskey Insurrection oconrrotl in the \TCstern co\inties in 
1794. but was soon broken \\\\ Thenceforth for many ye^rs the citizens 
CAnied forwaixi the deveh->pnient of the vast nuneral ix?«ource,s of the 
State, and founded new citie* and prospeixjus lmro\ig]is. During the 
Secession War, Pennsylvania actM with promptitu<le and ]X)wer. giving 
her whole strength to the National cause. Her soil was twice invatle<l by 
the SoTithenx armies, who advanced to within four miles of the capital : and 
within her lx>rders, at the olv<:cnre borough of Crettysburgh, was fought 
the tremendous three-da\-s battle whose issue insure*! the integinty of the 
Eepublic. 

New Jersey 

is lx>unde(i on the N. by tlie StAte of New York, on the E. by New York 
and the Atlantic Ocean, on the S. by the Delax^-aw l^\y. and on the W. 
by Pennsylvania. The S. and middle ix)rtions are level and sandy, and 
are Ivtixlered by narrow salt-water lagoons; but the N. and N. W. tx)r- 
tions are covered \kith low and lake-strewn spurs of the Alleghaivy Mts. 
Only a small ixirtion (relatix-e.ly) of the land is improve*!, as the extensive 
pine-plains toward the oce^n have an unprolilic soil. The chief natural 
}M'oduct« are fruit* and vegetables, which are readily dispose*! of in the 
great markets of New York and Philadelj^hia, The manufacturing in- 
tere^t* are important, the most unique being the extensive silk-fact<->ries 
at Paterson. The railroad system is well an-ange*! and ]>owerful, and is 
mostly controlle*! by the Penn. R. R. ; an*! there are two long canals, one 
of which is for the i^assage of large vessels Wtween the Delaware River 
and the lower l>ay of New York. Iron and zinc mines are profitably 
worked in the N. W. counties: and valuable beds of niai^l and glass-sand 
are found in the E. and S. Not\)i-ithstAnding its long ocea,n-fr*->nt, the 
commerce of the St^te is insigniticAut, being monopolized by the cities of 
New York and l^'hiladelphia. 

The eoclesiastic4il statistics of 1S60 showed 1,123 churchesi, valued at 
$ 7,762,705 (one church for every 59S persons). Tlie predominant sects 
are the Metho*!ists and I*resbyterians. A well-disciplined force of citizen- 
soldiery is kept under discipline and in marching order, and the State 
furnishe*! nearly 90,(X">0 men to tlie national armies during the Secession 
War. 

New Jei'sey has 906,096 inhabitants. It covers an area of S,820 square 
miles, and is divided into *21 counties. 

This region was settled by the Dutch ne^r Bergen in 1614, and by the 
Swedes on the Delaware Bay in 1627. After th.e British conquest of New 
York (1664), it was granted by the Duke of York txt Lor«i Berkeley and 
Sir George CaTteret, and was named in honor of the latter, who was a 



DELAWARE. XV 

native of the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel). It was flivlded 
into East and West Jersey, the latter of which was occnpied by William 
Penn. Puritan colonies from New England settlerl near the N. shores, 
and English Friends occnpied the S. W. During the Revolutionary War 
the State was the scene of three American victories, and of two winter- 
encampments of the Continental army. 

Delaware 
is bounded on the N. by the State of Pennsylvania ; on the E, by the 
Delaware River and Bay ; on the S. and W. by Maryland. It is the 
smallest State in the Union, except Rhode Island, and contains 2,002 
square miles, which are divided into 3 counties and 27 hundreds (corre- 
sponding to towns). The population is 125,015 ; and in 1860 there were 
220 churches, valued at §846,150 (one church to every 510 persons). 
There is a main trunk-line of railroad running from Wilmington S. 
across the State, with several branches to the E. and W. ; and the Ches- 
ax>eake & Delaware Canal gives passage for small vessels between the 
great bays on either side. The manufacturing interests are clustered 
about Wilmington ; and the majority of the people are engaged in agri- 
culture, producing large crops of "wheat, Indian com, Irish and sweet 
potatoes, berries and peaches, and valuable supx'lies of butter and honey, 
Tlie upper part of the State is diversified with rounded hills and fruitful 
valleys; but the lower counties form vast plains, which degenerate into 
cyx>ress-swamps along the S. boundary. 

Delaware was discovered by Henry Hudson in 1609, and was settled 
at an early day by the Swedes, according to the plans of King Gustavus 
Adolphus. After 4 Swedish governors had held the reins of power, the 
colony was conquered by the Dutch (1655), and was occupied by the 
British in 1664. The name of the State was given in honor of Thomas 
West, Lord De la Ware, sometime governor of Virginia, who died on 
shipboard in the Delaware Bay, June 7, 1618. The territory was granted 
to William Penn in 1682, but v/as separated from his domain in 1701. 
Under the guidance of Dickinson and Rodney, it bore a bravely patriotic 
part in the Revolutionary War, though part of its territory was overrun 
by the royal troops. Although, on account of its position as a slave- 
holding border State, Delaware was importuned by the Southern leaders 
to secede from the Union, it continued firmly loyal, and sent to the 
national armies 8 regiments, a cavalry battalion, and a battery. 

Maryland 
is one of the Southern States, and is bounded on the N. by Pennsylvania, 
on the E. by Delaware and the Atlantic Ocean, on the S. by Virginia, and 
on the W. by W. Virginia and Virginia. It covers 11,124 square mileri. 



Xvi MARYLAND. 

and is of varying natural characteristics. 8 coiinties are located on the 
level penmsula (called "the Eastern Shore") between tlie Chesapeake Bay 
and the ocean, and are indented by deep tidal estuaries, which abound in 
oysters and fish. The western counties are mountainous, and contain 
vast deposits of semi-bituminous coal, which is shipped from Cumberland 
on the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. Maryland is one of the foremost States 
in a commercial point of view, most of its marine trade centring at Balti- 
more. Wheat, Indian corn, and tobacco are the chief agricultural prod- 
ucts, and cotton is raised on the Eastern Shore. • 
Maryland was originally named Terra Marian, or Mary's Land, in 
honor of Queen Henrietta Maria, and was settled along the Chesapeake 
in 1631-32 by alHuent Catliolic families. For many years the province 
was agitated by conflicts between the Puritans at Providence (Annapolis) 
and the Catholics. In 1619 the act of toleration was passed which made 
Maryland "the land of the sanctuary." The attacks of hostile Indians 
on the W. disciplined the people, so that the " Maryland Line" was one 
of the most valiant bodies of troops in the Continental army. The State 
wavered for a moment when the Secession War broke out (being a 
Southern and slave State), but finally rejected the ordinance of Secession, 
and remained true to the Union. Many regiments from ]\Iaryland en- 
tered the national armies, and others were enrolled among the Confederate 
forces. 



INTRODUCTION. 



I. Money and Travelling Expenses. 

Since the war for the Union (1861 - 65) gold and silver coin has dis- 
appeared from circulation, and been replaced by U. S. Treasury notes and 
National Bank bills for values upwards of one dollar, and by fractional 
currency, issued by the Treasury, of the values of 10, 15, 25, and 50 cts. 
Nickel and mixed coins, of 1, 2, 3, and 5 cts. value, abound. The paper 
currency is at a discount for gold of from 10 to 15 per ct. The currency 
of Canada is either coin or paper at a coin value. 

The usual charge per day at the best hotels is $4 to |5.00, with con- 
siderable reductions when a prolonged stay is made at one place. Tourists 
who travel slowly through the country, and stop at the less pretentious 
hotels (which are usually comfortable, and always safe), may easily limit 
their expenses to $25 or $30 per week. Those who frequent hotels of 
the highest class, and indulge much in carriage-riding, will find $45 to 
$50 per week none too much. At most of the sea-beaches board can be 
secured at $ 10 or $ 15 per week ; while, in the quieter and less fashion- 
able villages about the mountains, substantial fare may be found in broad 
old farm-houses for $ 6 to $ 10 per week. 

II. Railroads and Steamboats. 

Railroad travelling in America is much more comfortable, yet more 
expensive and dangerous, than in the Old World. There is but one class 
of tickets, the average fares being about three cts. a mile. On each train 
is a smoking-car, easily accessible from the other cars, and fitted with 
tables for card-playing. It is prudent to decline playing with strangers, 
as gamblers sometimes practise their arts here, in spite of the watchful- 
ness of the officers of the train. To nearly every through train on the 
grand routes is attached one or more palace cars, which are richly 
carpeted and curtained, and profusely furnished with sofas, easy-chairs, 
tables, and mirrors, and fronted with broad plate-glass windows. These 
cars being well balanced, and running on twelve wheels, glide over the rails 
with great ease. By night they are ingeniously changed into sleeping- 
rooms, with comfortable beds. The extra fares on the palace-cars are 



2 INTRODUCTION. 

collectftd by men attached to them. The usual price of a night's lodging 
is $2. The fares by steamboat are somewhat lower than by rail, and (in 
case of a night passage) include a sleei»ing-berth in the lower saloon, but 
generally do not include meals. A state-room in the upper cabin costs 
extra, but insures better air and greater comfort and privacy. State-rooms 
(in the summer season) should be secured in advance at the company's 
office in New York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore. Great lines of stages 
still run among the mountains and in the remote rural districts. Persons 
travelling by this way, in pleasant weather, should try to get a seat on 
the outside. 

The Check System. — The traveller, having bought a ticket for his des- 
tination, shows his heavy baggage (trunks, etc.) to the baggage-master, 
who attaches a small numbered brass plate to each piece with a leather 
thong, and gives to the traveller a check for each piece of baggage, similar 
in form and number to that appended to .such piece. The railroad now 
becomes responsible (within certain limits of weight and value) for the 
baggage, which is to be given up only on the presentation of the dupli- 
cate check which is in the traveller's possession. Trunks may be thus 
despatched from New York or Philadelphia to Chicago, Montreal, Wash- 
ington, etc., without trouble ; and if their owner is delayed on the route, 
they arc stoi'ed safely at their destined station until he calls. On pres- 
entation of the check at the baggage-room of the station to which the 
baggage has been sent, it is given up to the owner or his hotel porter. 
The large hotels have coaches at the railroad stations, on the arrival of 
through trains; and their porters will take the duplicate checks, get the 
trunks, and carry them to the hotel. 



III. Excursions on Foot. 

It is remarkable that pedestrianisni has never been popular in this 
country. The ease and perfect freedom of this mode of travelling, its 
highly beneficial physical elfects, the leisure thus afforded in Avhich to 
study the beautiful scenery in otherwise remote and inaccessible districts, 
— all mark this as one of the most profitable and pleasant modes of 
summer recreation. To walk two hundred miles in a fortnight is an easy 
thing; and it is infinitely more refreshing for a man of sedentary habits 
than the same length of time spent in lying on the sands of some beach, 
or idling in a farm-house among the hills. " For a tour of two or three 
Aveeks, a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted .stockings, slippers, 
and the articles of the toilet, carried in a pouch slung over the shoulder, 
will generally be found a sufficient equipment, to which a light overcoat 
and a stout umbrella may be added. Strong and well-tried boots are es- 



INTRODUCTION. 3 

sential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided. 
A light pouch, or game-bag, is far less irksome, and its position may be 
shifted at pleasure." (Baedeker.) One or two books niiglit be added to 
this list; and a reserve of clothing may be sent on in a light valise, at a 
tridiug cost, to the to\vn which is the pedestrian's objective point. 

It would be well for inexperienced walkers to begin at eight to ten 
miles a day, and gradually increase to sixteen to eighteen miles, or six 
hours' walking. During the heats of summer the travelling should be 
done at early morning and late afternoon, thus spending the hottest part 
of the day in coolness and rest. The best time for a pedestrian tour is 
between late September and late October, when the sky is clear and the 
air bracing, — the season of the reaping of harvests, the ripening of fruits, 
and the splendor of the reddening forests. 

Among the most interesting routes for the pedestrian in the Middle 
States may be mentioned : The valley of the Hudson River, from New 
York to Hudson, or even to Albany ; the romantic Highland region, ex- 
tending S. W. from West Point by the Ramapo Valley and into the lake- 
strewn hills of New Jersey ; the Catskill Mts., whose picturesque cloves 
and stately peaks are much freqiiented by artists and trout-fishers; the 
W. shore of Lakes George and Champlain ; the upper Delaware Valley, 
from tlie Water Gap to Port Jervis. The road from Sag Harbor to Mon- 
tauk Point affords a short walk through a primitive region beyond rail- 
roads, and with naught to attract the attention but the neighboring sea. 
The lake region of Northern New York is traversed by small boats ex- 
clusively; but the Adirondack Mts. afford good walking-ground, Avith 
poor inns and rugged roads, but abounding in fine scenery. The Keene 
Valley, Elizabethtown, and Schroon Lake districts are among the best in 
this section, and parties of pedestrians would do Avell to engage local 
guides ($ 2 -3 a day). The Maryland Glades afford pleasant scenery, and 
are visited by sportsmen and trout-fishers. 



IV. Hot3ls. 

Tlie hotels of the United States will certaiidy bear comparison with 
those of any other country. The European plan has been adopted in many 
of them, while in many others it is used in coml)ination with the American 
plan, — $ 4 to $ .5 per day at the more fashionable houses, $ 2.50 to $ 4 
per day at the comfortable hotels of the smaller cities, and $ 1.50 to 1 2.50 
per day in the smaller houses in the rural districts, are the charges which 
cover all ordinary reipiirements. No costly array of sundries and extras 
is attached to the bill, and the practice of feeing the servants has never 
obtained to any great extent, nor has it been found necessary. 



4 INTRODUCTION. 

V. Round-Trip Excursions. 

During the summer and early fall the railroad companies prepare lists 
of excursion-tickets at greatly reduced prices. Information and lists of 
these routes may be obtained from the central offices in New York and 
Philadelphia (either by personal application or by letter). 

VI. Climate and Dress. 

The climate of the Middle States is subject to sudden and severe changeg, 
from heat to cold or from cold to heat. The summers are usually hotter 
and the winters colder than in England, and during the latter season great 
falls of snow are frequent. The summer sun is often fatal in its power, 
and long exposure to its vertical rays should be avoided. At the same 
time warm clothing should be kept at hand, and woollen, or at least heavy 
cotton, underclothing should be worn, in order to guard against the sudden 
changes which are so frequent. 

VII. Miscellaneous Notes. 

Passports are of no use in the United States in time of peace. 

The examination of luggage at the Canadian frontier and at the ocean- 
ports is usually very lenient, and conducted in a courteous manner. 

Traffic is made easy from the fact that fixed charges exist in the shops, 
and the tiresome processes of chaffing and beating down are unnecessary. 

There are no professional guides in the Middle States (except at Niagara 
Falls and among the Adirondack Mts. and lakes), but the people are 
prompt and willing to answer all civilly put questions. Gentlemen from 
abroad will remember that there is here, especially in the country, no class 
of self-recognized peasantry, and that a haughty question or order will 
often provoke a reply couched in all " the native rudeness of the Saxon 
tojigue." 



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MIDDLE-STATES HANDBOOK 



1. New York City. 

Arrival from the Sea. — The American coast is generally first sighted at 
tlie line of the Nuvesinii Highlands, or ott" Fire Island Light ; and the vessel 
soon passes the 8andy Hooic fort and light-houses, ott' wliicli the outer bar is crossed 
and the Lower Bay is entered. The shores of Lou- and SUiten Islands ai>i>roach each 
otherontheN. ; Uaritan l}:iy is seen opening to the W.,an<l the low shores of Coney 
Island are on the r. The quarantine Innldings are p;issed on the 1. The steamer 
now enters the Narrows, with ponderous fortilications on either side, — Forts Ham- 
ilton and Lafayette on the r.. Forts Richmond and Tompkins on the 1. Within 
this emt)attled gateway from tlie sea the steamer ascends the harlKU-, with New 
York and Jersey City in front and Brooklyn on the r. lShii>s of war, tall India- 
men, fleets of coasting vessels, the unwieldy ferry-boats and swift steam-tugs 
occupy the watei-s ; and the steamer moves up slowly to her pier on the North 
River. The examination of baggage by the custom-house olhcers is always con- 
ducted with a courtesy and lenity proportioned to the facilities which the trav- 
eller affords to the examining (")tliccrs. Foreign money is not current in New 
York, but may be exchanged at the otlices on Wall and Broad Sts., where are the 
banking-houses which casli circular notes and letters of credit. 

Arrival by tlic Sonnd Strainers. —The piers (27, li-i, 35, and 40) are all on the 
North or HikIsou River, between Murray and Watts Sts., W. of Broadway. The 
New Haven, Harlem, and Hudson River' Railroads terminate at the Grand Central 
Depot, whence horse-cars and sta-i-s depart for the central ami lower parts of the 
city. The Erie. ()swc;,'o Midlaml, iV-nnsylvania, Delaware, Lackawanna and West- 
ern, and N. J. Central Railroads terminate at Jersey City, and ferry-boats leave 
for N. Y. on the arrival of trains. 

Bagqage. — Agents of tlie express and transfer companies pass through the trains 
as tli'ey api)roach New York, exclaiming, "Checks for baggage." If the traveller 
wLshes his bagi,'age delivered at a hotel, residence, or another railroa<l station, ho 
surremlers his check (or cheeks) to the agent, who gives a receipt therefor and writes 
the address in his book. The express company then becomes responsible for tho 
safe delivery of the baggage. The charge for delivering 1 piece to any point in the 
city below 50th St. is"40-50o. ; to Brooklyn, 50 -60c. ; to Jersey City, 75c. ; to 
Yorkville and Harlem, S 0.75 - 1.00. Travellers about to leave New York or Brook- 
lyn can have their baggage checked from their house or hotel to its ultimate d(!S- 
tination by buying their railroad tickets and leaving their orders at the express 
ofhce. 

Hotels. — The * Windsor, a new, lofty, and elegant honse on upper Fifth Ave. 
(corner of 4Gth St.), $5 a day; the * Filth Avenue, a vast marble building oa 
Madison Square, $5 a day; the * St. Nicholas, a marble Iniilding on Broadway 
and Spring St., patronized by Western men ; the * Metropolitan, a stately bnjwn- 
stone building at Broadway and Prince St., visited by army officers and railroad 
chiefs, .§ 4 a day ; the HolTman Honse, an aristoci'atic resort on Madison Square, 
European plan ; the * Grand Central, an 8-story building on Broadway, facing 
Bond St. , § 3 - 4 a day. The * Grand Hotel (corner Broadway and 31st St. ) and the 
Gilsey House (Broailway and 2',lth St.) are the finest European-plan hotels in 
America. These immense hotels are amply supplied with all the luxuries of mod- 
ern American civilization, and are unexcelled in the world. The St. Cloud is a 
fine up-town hotel at Broadway and 42d St. ; the Grand Union (Park Ave. and 
41st St.) is conveuieutly situated for passengers arriving by late trains from New 



6 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

England and the North ; the Winchester is at Broadway and 31st St. ; the Stnrte- 
vant is at Broadway and 2Sth St. The Marlborough (Gth Ave. and 3Stli St.) and 
the Hotel Royal (Oth Ave. and 40th St.) are quiet hotels on the W. side. The 
Ashland, Putnam, and Washington are inexpensive houses on 4th Ave. above 23d 
St. The lofty Stevens House (Bromlway and 27th St.), the Hotel Branting (Madi- 
son Ave. and oStli St.), tlie llaiglil House, and others in the upper i)art of the 
city, are hotels (jarnis, with exi>ensive suites of furnished rooms. On and near 
Madison Square are also the St. Jaiues, Broadway and 2l)th St. ; the (Coleman, 
Broadway and 27th St. ; the linely situated and aristoeratic Hotel Brunswiek, 5th 
Ave. ami 2Uth St. ; the Albemarle, Broadway and 24th St. ; the St, Germain, 
Broadway and 22d St. The *Rossmore is a new and stately house (Broadway 
und 42d St.); the * Buckingham is a superb family hotel, at 5th Ave. and 50th 
St. ; and the Gramercy-Park House has 3-400 boarders. • 

On and near Union Sciuare are the Union Place, Broadway and 14th St. ; the 
Union Square, 4tli Ave. and 15th St. ; the Westmoreland and the * Everett, 4th 
Ave. and 17th St. ; the * Clarendon (patronized by Kuglisli tourists), 4th Ave. and 
ISth St. ; the * Westminster, a lireq'roof building, living riace and IGth St., Eu- 
ropean plan; the Belvedere, Irving Place and ]5th St.; the ISjiingler. Farther 
down Broadway is the Irving House, corner of Pith St. ; the St. Denis, oppt)site 
Grace Church, freipiented by foreign tourists ; and several neat and resi)ect^iblo 
liotels on the European plan. The Brevoort, on 5th Ave. and Sth St., is much 
visited by Englisiunen ; the Glenham is at 5th Ave. and 2()th St. (European); the 
yjnelair is at 754 Broadway; and the Prescott, on Broadway and Spring St., is a 
line house. The Brandreth House, at Broadway ami Canal St., is on the Euro- 
pean plan, and is nuich visited by merchants. Earle's Hotel, corner of Canal and 
Centre Sts., charges $3 a day. 

The * Astor House is a famous old European-plan hotel, opposite the new Post- 
Oflice. Near the City Hall Park are French's, Lcggett's, Sweeney's, tiie Park, 
and the Cosmopolitan'. In Cortlandt St.. farther down town, are the Merchants', 
the National, and French's New Hotel, frecpienteil by businessmen. The United 
States is a large hotel near the Fulton Ferry ; and the Stevens House is on Broail- 
way, near the Battery. Rooms may be obtained at the European-jdan hotels at 
from $1 to $3 a day, with meals a la carte in the house or elsewhere. The 
Grand, Gilsey, and othei'S of the more elegant houses, charge from $2 a day 
upward for a bachelor's nH)m. For a tourist who is to make but a short visit to 
New York, these houses will be found more convenient than those on the Ameri- 
can plan. There are about 150 other ln)tels of all grades ; and in the uptown 
streets are many comfortable and comparatively inexueusive boarding-houses 
(88-15 a week). 

Restaurants. — *nclnionico's, corner 5th Ave. and 2Gth St., the best in 
America (willi branch cstablisliments down town, near the corner of Broadway 
and Cedar St., 2 S. William St., and on Broad near Wall St.); the *Cafe Bruns- 
wick, famous for evening dinners, 223 5th Ave. Parker's, on 13roadway near 34th 
St., is frci(ucntcd liy ladies ; also Bigot's, 14th St., near Broadway; Geyer's, 734 
ami 73(j Broadway, is a large and favorite restaurant ; Solar!, corner of University 
Place and 11th St.. laepares elaborate late dinners, lauch (804 Broadway) and 
Bergman (corner Broadway and 27tli St.) keci> ladies' restaurants, which are much 
frequented; Maillard (G21 Broadway) is fnnious for bonbons and chocolate; Ar- 
naud (S15 Broadway) ivcejis line Frencli candies ; and PiirsscU's (910 Broadway) 
is a favorite lunch-saloon for the up-town ladies. Lucetti's (loS;i Broadway) and 
Rudolph's (102 and 411 Broadway) are attractive ; and Martinelli (4".) 3d Ave.) has 
the Italian cuisiitc. and is visited by many artists. At 39 Park Row, Leggett's 
Hotel, 14 Cortlandt St., and numerous other places down town, are large eating- 
houses for merchants and clerks. 

The cafes and restaurants attached to the large hotels on the European plan are 
generally well kept, and are much visited by ladies. The Astor House lias one 
of the best of these. Oysters may he found in every variety in the small saloons 
in Fulton JIarket (the "Saddle Rocks" of Dorlon's house are considered the 
best). New England dishes ai-e served at Payson's, on Cortlandt near Green- 
wich St. 

Reading Rooms. — In all the chief hotels (for giiests) ; Y. M. C. Association, 
comer 4th Ave. and 23d St., also at 85 Hudson St., 473 Grand St., and 285 
Cleecker St. Astor Library, Lafayette Place, open 9i-5; City Libraiy, City 



NEW YOPvK CITY. Route 1. 7 

Hall, open free to all, 10- 4 ; * Cooper Institute, corner 4th Ave. and 7t'h St., open 
from 8 A. M. to 10 p. m. ; Woman's Library, open 9-4 (§1.50 a year). 

Post-Office, corner of Cedar and Nassau Sts., open continuously except Sun- 
days, wheu it is open only between 9 and 11a. m. There are also 20 sub post-offices 
in the city, called " Stations," and alphabetically designated. Letters may be 
mailed in the lamp-post boxes (of which there ai-e 700), whence they are collected 
9 times daily by the gray-uniformed letter-carriers. 

Baths are found in all the large hotels ; N. Y. Turkish Bath establishment, 13 
Laight ftt., near St. John's Park; Turkish Baths also at 39-41 W. 2Gth St.; 
liussian vapor-baths at 25 E. 14th St. and on W. 24th St. ; Turkish, Sun, and 
Electric baths, corner Lexington Ave. and 25th St. Turko-Russian and other 
varieties of baths are given at the Gibson Building, 13th St. and Broadwaj', with 
luxurious and costly equipments and appointments. 

Consuls. — Great Britain, 17 Broadway; France, 4 Bowling Green ; Germnu 
Emi)ire, 2 Bowling Green ; Austria, 33 Broadway; Russia, 52 Exchange PI. ; Italy, 
7 Broadway; Spain, 29 Broadway; Brazil, 13 Broadway. 

Theatres. — The * Academy of Music (E. 14th St., near Union Square), with 
a brilliant auditorium decorated in crimson and gold, — the home of the Italian 
opera in New York; * Wallack's (Broadway, near 13th St.), with a well-adapted 
stock comjiany, devoted i)rincipally to legitimate comedy ; * Booth's (23d St., near 
Gth Ave.), the most elegant theatre in America, chiefly used for standard trageily; 
the *Ch-and Opera House ((jorner of 8th Ave. and 23d St.), a superb hall, devottd 
to dramatic and spectacular representations. Daly's Fifth Avenue (2Sth St., near 
5tli Ave.) and the Union Square (14th St., near Broadway) are small, but elegant 
antl I'ashionable theatres. Niblo's Garden (Broadway, near Prince St.) exhibits 
biilliant spectacular plays ; the Olympic (Broadway, neai- Houston St.) is a vaude- 
ville and novelties theatre; Wood's Mu.seum (Broadway and 30tli St. ) ; the new 
Lyceum Theatre. The theatre audiences at the Saturday matinees are mostly 
composed of ladies, who go in walking-dress and without escort. 

The Eagle Theatre is devoted to varieties and miscellaneous entertainments (at 
Broadway and 32d St.). The LyceuTn Theatre (6th Ave. and 14th St.) gives opera 
bdutre and French plays. The Germania is in Tammany Hall (E. 14th St.) and 
exhibits German dramas. The Park Theatre is on Broadwaj^ near 21st St. ; the 
Globe is on Broadway, near Astor Place; and the Tivoli is on 8th St.. between 
2il and 3d Aves. The San Francisco Minstrels exhibit at Broadway and 29th St. 
Gilmore's concerts are to be held also in the Hippodrome (4th Ave. and 26th 
St.). 

Tlie Bowery and the Stadt Theatres are nearly opposite each other (on the Bow- 
cry, between Bayard and Canal Sts.), and produce German plays and operas. 
There are several respectable minor theatres on Broadway and near Union Square. 
The best negro minstrel entertainments are at the Twenty-Third St. Theatre, and 
at Tony I'astor's Opera House (585 Broadway). 

Amusements. — Classic music, oratorios, and concerts are given in Steinway 
Hall (l4tli St., near Union Square) and the new Chickering Hall (.5th Ave. and 
ISth St.). Fine military and waltz music is rendered by Gilmore's Band, at 
the armory of the 22d Regiment (14th St. and 6th Ave.). During the summer 
orchestral music of the highest order (conducted hitherto by Theodore Thomas) 
is given at the Central Park Garden (corner 7th Ave. and 59th St. ; admission, 
50c.). The Atlantic Garden adjoins the Bowery Theatre, and is a great hall 
where, at evening, 2-3,000 Germans drink beer and smoke pipes with their 
families, and listen to well-executed vocal and orchestral music. There are 
numerous other beer-gardens, of lower grades, in the Bowery; and in the upper 
part of the city, near the rivers, are large concert-groves, where the Germans 
fl<ick in crowds during the summer. The music is generally good ; but the beer 
of New York is very inferior in quality. The cellar concert-saloons on Broadway 
and elsewhere should be carefully avoided, for they are both disreputable and 
dangerous, and many a stranger has there been deprived of money and honor and 
even of life. 

Lectures on various subjects, and public readings, at Chickering Hall, Stein- 
way Hall, Association Hall (4th Ave. and 23d St. ), Apollo Hall, and Cooper Insti- 
tute (4th Ave. and 8th St.). The great poi)u]ar meetings relative to social or 
political issues are generally held at the Cooper Institute. The Pilgrim, an alle- 
gory, is shown at Bain Hall, on Lafayette Place. 
1* 



8 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

3fifsewms.~The * Metropolitan Museum (123 "W. 14tli St., near Union Square) has, 
besides a large picture-gallery, the Cesuola Collection of Egyi)tian, Greek, ami Phoe- 
nician antiquities from the buried cities of Cyprus ; modern statuary ; articles of 
vertu ; and mediaeval MSS. and curiosities (open on Mondays free ; on other days 
25c. admission). The American Museum of Natural History, at the Central Park 
(5th Ave. and 04th St.), has large collections of stuffed birds and animals, minerals, 
fossils, etc. ; and a zoological garden containing many rare animals and birds (ad- 
mission free, except on Monday and Tuesday, when tickets may be obtained at 
the office of the Department of Public Parks, 36 Union Square). The N. Y. His- 
torical Society (corner of 2d Ave. and 11th St.) has a valuable ])icture-gallery, and 
collections of Assyrian, Egyptian, ;ind American antiquities. The Lyceum of Nat- 
ural History (14th St., near 4th Ave.) is open to the public- Wood's Museum 
(Broadway and 30th St.) contiiins many of the old collections of Barnum's Mu- 
seum, and may be seen on the payment of a small entrance-fee. The Anatomical 
Museum, and other si)ccial collections on Broadway, are of interest to students. 

Alhlctii- Spirrts. — Horse-races at Jerome Park, the most aristocratic race-course 
in Auicrira, largely attendetl by the illte of New York. It is reached by the Har- 
lem 11. li., and is 1^ M. from Fordham. Also at Fleetwood Park, \ M. beyond 
Macomb's Dam Bridge, on tlie Harlem River ; and at the Prospect Park and 
Deerfoot tracks, near Brooklyn, and reached by horse-cars from Fulton Ferry. 
Base-ball at the Capitoline and the Union grounds in Brooklyn, reached by horse- 
cars from Fulton Ferry (the Union grounds are also gained fron; the Roosevelt 
St. Ferry). Thousands of spectators witness tlie exciting match-games between 
the professional clubs. Cricket is often played on the Capitoline grounds. Scot- 
tish games are celebrated at Jones's Wood and other suburban groves. Skating 
is a popular winter amusement, and its favorite localities are the lakes in Central 
Park and Prospect Park (Brooklyn). When the ice is firm and smooth enough to 
allow of skating, the horse-cars that run from the lower jjarts of the cities to the 
Parks bear a small white flag on which a (;olorcd ball is depicted. Skates may be 
hired at the rustic cottages near the lakes. The regattas, annual and sjiecial, of 
tlie yaclit-clubs are generally held in the Lower Bay, and are full of iiitere.st to 
tliose who like aquatic sports. Uijle-x>ractice is doue by the volunteer troops at 
the new Creedmoor Range, on Long Island (on the Central R. R. of L. I.). 

Art Collections. — * Metropolitan Museum, 14th St., near 5th Ave., open 
Jlondays free, otlier days 25c. ; *Acadeii]y of Design, 23d St. and 4th Ave., en- 
trance, 25c. ; Gallery of the N. Y. Historical Society, 2d Ave. and 11th St. There 
are usually many fine pictures in the sales-galleries of Gou])il, 5th Ave. and 22d 
St. ; Avery, 5th Ave., opposite Delmonico's (very elegant cabinets) ; Schaus, 749 
Broadway ; Leavitt Art Rooms, 817 BroadAvay ; Somerville Art Gallery, 82 5th 
Ave.; and Snedicor, li(i 5th Ave. There are many artists' studios in the 
Y. M. C. A. buildina', 4th Ave. and 23d St. ; the Kurtz Art Building, on Madison 
Ave. (headquarters of " The Palette " Club) ; the University, Wasliington Scfuarc ; 
the Somerville Building, 5th Ave. and 14th St. ; and the .studio Building, 51 W, 
10th St. There are several large and valuable private galleries, which are open 
only to persons who are properly accredited and introduced. The usual mode of 
securing an entrance to these galleries is by sending a letter (with card enclosed) to 
their owners. The best private galleries are those of John Taylor Johnston, A. T. 
Stewart, M. O. Roberts, John Hoey, James Lenox, Lucius Tuckerman, Robert L. 
Stewart, and John Wolfe (v/ho has Bougereau's masterpiece). 

Festivals. — New Year's Day is the greatest day of tlie New York calendar, 
and the ladies of the middle and upper classes then hold elaborate receptions. 
The church festivals, Christmas, the Carnival season, and others, are gi'owing in 
importance and universality of observance. Thanksgiving Day (late in November) 
is a Puritan exotic, and is marked here by fine dinners and family reunions. The 
great religioiis societies hold their annual reunions in May, and they are largely 
attended by Christians from all over the country. The 1st of May is a noisy, bus- 
tling, and ill-tempered day in New York, for it is the great moving-day, when many 
thousands change their domiciles. Evacuation Day (Nov. 25th^ commemorates 
the departure of the British army in 1783, and is usually celebrated by a parade. 
The national festivals, the Fourth of July and Washington's Birthday (Feb. 22d), 
are devoted to military displays, and the former is made noisy by artillery salutes 
and fireworks. Decoration Day (May 30th) is observed by the relatives and com- 
rades of the soldiers who fell in the' Secession War. The thousands of soldiers' 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 9 

graves in the cemeteries around the city are visited and adorned with flowers amid 
impressive ceremonies. St. Patrick's Day and the Battle of the Boyue are com- 
memorated by great processions of Irishmen, sometimes terminating in wide- 
spread and fatal riots. 

Churches. — The Sunday services most visited by strangers are those of 
Trinity Church (Broadway, facing Wall St.), with its cathedral choral service and 
anthems ; Christ Church (5th Ave. and 3.3th St. ; richly ornamented), and St. 
Albans (Lexington Ave. and 47th St.), ritualistii; services; Ascension (5th Ave. 
and 10th St.); St. George (E. IGth St.), Dr. S. A. Tyng, rector. Tlie Roman 
Catholic Cathedral of St. Patrick is at the corner of Mott and Prince Sts. ; and 
St. Steplien's (149 E. 2Sth St.) is famed for its impressive musical services. The 
Prcsbj-terian churches of Dr. John Hall (5th Ave. and 55th St.) and the Brick 
Church (5th Ave. and 37tli St.) are largely attended; also the Congregational 
Tabernacle (Broadway and .S4th St.); the Metliodist Church of St. Paul (4th Ave. 
and liid St.); the Reformed Dutch Collegiate Cliurch (Lafayette Place) ; the Uni- 
tarian Churches of All Souls (Dr. Bellows; 4th Ave. and 20th St. ) and t)f the 
Messiah (Park Ave. and 34th St.); the Universalist Church of the Divine Pater- 
nity (Dr. Chapin; 5th Ave. and 45th St.\ and Our Saviour (.57th, near Sth Ave.); 
the Swedenborgian (Rev. Chauncey Giles ; 114 E. :f5th St. i ; tlie Church of the Dis- 
ciples (Rev. G. H. Hepvvorth ; Madison Ave. and 45th St. ) ; the Moravian (Lexing- 
ton Ave. and 30th St. ) ; the Church of tlie Strangers (Dr. Deems ; Waverley Placei ; 
and the Russo-Greek Cliurch (2d Ave., near 50th St.). The Sabl)ath (Saturday) 
services of the Jewish Temple Emanuel are remarkable and impressive. The news- 
papers on Saturdays give lists of the time, location, and character of the principal 
services of the ensuing Sunday. In Brooklyn are the churches of Henry Ward 
Beecher (Orange St., near Hicksi ; De Witt Talmage (Schermerhorn St., near Ne- 
vins) ; St. Ann-on-the-Heights (Dr. Schenck ; Clinton St.); Holy Trinity (with 
fine music ; corner Clintou and Montague Sts.) ; Dr. Cuyler (Lafayette Ave. and 
Oxford) ; the Pilgrims (Dr. Storrs ; llemsen and Henry Sts.) ; Dr. Scudder (Han- 
cock St., near Fulton Ave.); Dr. Budiiigton (Clinton Ave. Congregational); Dr. 
Duryea's (Pres.; Classon Ave., near Monroe); Hanson-Place Baptist; Dr. Put- 
nam's (Unitarian ; Pierrepont St). 

Carriages. — For 1 passenger for a distance of 1 M. or less, S 1 ; 2 pas- 
sengers, ^1.50. In 1876 the Aldermen passed a shameful law (over the May- 
or's veto) allowing hackmen to charge $ 1 per mile for passengers taken from 
the depots or piers. No extra charge is allowed for 1 trunk, box, or valise ; 
children between 2 and 14 years of age pay half price. A tariff of fares is 
(or should be) hung in every carriage, but the drivers frequently attempt 
to extort undue sums from their passengers. In such cases, since the hack- 
men of New York are the most ruffianly of their class in the world, an instant 
appeal should be made to the first policeman who may be seen. Questions of 
disagreement as to distance, time, or price must be settled at the Mayor's of- 
fice (City Hall). The principal hotels have carriages in waiting, by which trav- 
ellers may be conveyed to various points at prices designated on cards that 
are displayed in the hotel offices (the rates are higher than those of the public 
carriages). 

Omnibuses (called "stages") (1) from Fulton Ferry, by Fulton St., Broadway, 
University Place, 13th St., and 5th Ave., to 42(1 St., returning over the same route ; 
(2) from South Ferry, by Broadway, 23d St., and Oth Ave., to 30th St., returning the 
same way ; (3) from South Ferry, by Broadway and 4th Aa'c., to 32d St. ; (4) from 
South Ferry, by Broadway and 14tli St. to Avenue A ; (5) from South Ferry, by 
Broadway, to the Erie Railway Ferry on 23d St. ; (G) from Wall St. Ferry, by AVall, 
Broadway, 23d, and Madison Ave., to 40th St. ; (7) from Jersey City Ferry (Cort- 
landt St.) by Broadway, Bleecker St., Bowery, and 2d St. to Houston St. Ferry. 
The omnibuses are cleaner and less crowded than the horse-cars, and are used by 
a better class of people. The fare (usually 10c.) is posted up inside. 

Horse-Cars. — The fare on most of the lines is 5c. (1) Astor House to 
Central Park, by Barclay, Church, ancj Greene Sts. and 7th Ave. ; (2) Astor House 
to Central Park, by Vescy, W. Broadway, Varick, and 6th Ave. ; (3) Astor House 
to Central Park, by Canal and Hudson Sts., and Sth Ave. ; (4) Astor House to 
Manhattanville, by Vesey, Church, W. Broadway, and Sth Ave. ; (5) Astor House 
to Hunter's Point Ferrv, by Park Row, Centre, Grand, Bowery, 4th Ave., 32d, and 
34th Sts. ; (6) Astor House to 34th St. Ferry, by Chatham St., E. Broadway, 



10 Routcl. NEW YORK CITY. 

Avenues B and A, and 1st Ave. ; (7) Astor House to 86th St., by Centre, Bow- 
ery 4th, and Madison Aves. ; (8) corner Broadway and Canal St. to 43d St., by 
Vai'ick St. and 6th Ave. ; (9) comer Broadway and Canal St. to Central Park, by 
Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave. ; (10) corner Broadway and Ann St. through Chatham, 
E. Broadway, Avenues Band A ; (11) corner Broadway and Broome St. to Central 
Park by 7tli Ave. ; (12) corner Broad wav and Fulton to 54th St., by Greenwich St. 
and 9th Ave. ; (13) Peck Slip to Harlem (128th St.), by Oliver St., Bowery, and 
2d Ave. ; (14) South Ferry to Central Park, by West St. and 10th Ave.; (15) South 
Ferry to Central Park, by the East River Ferries, 1st Ave., and 59th St.; (16) 
Fulton Ferry to 10th Ave., by Centre and Bleecker Sts. ; (17) Grand St. Ferry to 
Desbrosses St. Ferry, by Grand and Vestry Sts. ; (18) Grand St. Fen-y toCortlandt 
St. Ferry ; (19) Grand St. Ferry to 42d St. (Weehawken) Ferry ; (20) corner of 
Chambers and West Sts. to Grand Central Depot. Iha-Elevaicd Railway rmis from 
the J3attery to 59th St., on Greenwich St. and 9th Ave. Tlie track is suppuried 
by iron pillars ; the cars are luxurious, and are drawn by small locomotives ; and 
the stations are at Liberty, Franklin, Canal, Houston, 12th, 21st, 30th, 84th, 42d, 
and 59th Sts. 

Ferries. —To Astoria, from 92d St., and from Peck Slip; to Blackwell's 
Island, from foot of 26th St., E. R. (fare, 20c.). To Long Island City (Hunter's 
Point), from James Slip, half-hourly (fare, 6c.), and from foot of 34th St., every 7 
minutes. To Brooklyn, from foot of 10th and of 23d St. to Greenpoint ; from Hous- 
ton St. to Grand St. (Williamsburg) ; from Grand St., N. Y., to Grand St. and S. 7th 
St. ; from Roosevelt St. to S. 7th St. ; from Jackson St. to Hudson St. (Navy- 
Yard) ; from Catharine St. to Main St. ; from Fulton St., N. Y., to Fulton St. (the 
most important of the ferries) ; from Wall St. to Montague St. ; from Whitehall 
St. to Atlantic Ave ; from Whitehall to Hamilton Ave. To Bay Ridge, from foot 
of Wall St., 8 - 10 times daily (fare, 15c.). To Staten Island, boats by either line 
hourly ; from Whitehall St. to Tomi)kinsville, Stapleton, and Vanderbilt's Land- 
ing (fare, 10c.) ; from Pier 19, N. R. (near Cortlandt St.) to New Brighton, Sailors' 
Snug Harbor, W. Brighton, Port Richmond, and Elm Park (fare, 12c.). To Jersey 
City, from Liberty St. to N. J. Central R. R., every 20 minutes ; from Cortlandt 
St. to Montgomery St. (and terminus of R. R. to Pliiladelphia and the Soutli) ; 
from Desbrosses St. to Montgomery St, ; from Chambers and from 23d Sts. to 
Long Dock or Pavonia (Erie R. R. terminus). To Hoboken, from foot of Barclay 
St. and foot of Christopher St. ; to Bull's Ferry and Fort Lee, from Pier 43 (fare, 
15c.) ; from foot of 42d St. to Weehawken, every 40 minutes (fare, 12c.). There 
are 16 ferry lines in the E. River and 10 in the N. River, carrying 85,000,000 pas- 
sengers annually, and making a net profit of over §1,000,000. 

Bailroads. — On Long Island, the South Side R. R. to Islip and Patdiogue, 
by ferries from foot of Roosevelt and Grand Sts. to the station at Williamsburg 
(see Route 4) ; the Long Island R. R. to Sag Harbor and Greenport, by ferries 
from James Slip and 34th St. to the station at Hunter's Point (Route 5) ; the 
Flushing & North Side R. R. by ferry from James Slip to the station at Hunter's 
Point. To Boston by New Haven and Springlield, or by the Shore Line (see Os- 
good's Nexv England), from the Grand Central Depot, 4th Ave. and 42d St. ; to 
Chatham, Albany, and Rutland, by the Harlem R. R., from the Grand Central 
Depot ; to Albany and the N. and "W., by the N. Y. Central and Hudson River R. 
R., from the Grand Central Depot. To Oswego, by the Midland R. R., by ferries 
from Cortlandt and Desbrosses Sts. to the station in Jersey City ; to Buffalo 
and the W., by the Erie Railway froni foot of Chambers and of 23d Sts. to station 
in Jersey City ; to Ea.ston, by the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western R. R. 
(Morris & Essex), by ferries from Barclav and Christopher Sts. ; to Easton and 
the W. by the N. J. Central R. R., by ferry from the foot of Liberty St. ; to Phil- 
adelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, by the Penn. R. R., by ferries from the foot 
of Desbrosses and of Cortlandt Sts. ; to Long Branch and the N. J. coast by the 
N. J. Southern R. R., by steamers from Pier 8, N. R. to Sandy Hook ; to Newark, 
by ferry from the foot of Liberty St. To the Stateu Island R. R., by ferry from 
Whiteliall. 

Steamsliips. — Transatlantic lines — tor Queenstown and Liverpool, the Cu- 
nard (fares, $130, $100, $80, and $30) and White Star lines, 3 vessels weekly from 
Jersey City, cabin fare §80 gold, steerage §33 ; Inman Line, Pier 45, N. R., cabin 
$75 gold, steerage §28; Liverpool and Great Western, Pier 46, N. R., fares $80 
and §30 ; National Line, Pier 47, N. R., fares §75, §65, and §28. For Glasgow, 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 11 

Anchor Line, Pier 20, N. R., fares S 75, $65, and $28. For London, Piers 44 and 
52, and 3, N. R. For Belfast and Glasgow, State Line, Pier 37, N. R. For Havre, 
Gen. Transatlantic Co.. Pier 50, N. R., fares $ 125 and §75. For Hamburg, Ham- 
burg-American Line, Hoboken, fares $ 120, $ 72, $ 30 ; Eagle Line, Hobokeu (to 
Plymouth, Cherbourg, and Hamburg). For Southampton and Bremen, N. Ger- 
man Lloyds, Hoboken, fares §120, $72, $40. For Stettin, Baltic Lloyds, Pier 13, 
N. R. , fares $ SO and $ 30 ; for Antwerp ; for the Mediterranean i^orts. West Indian 
lines — for Havana, Atlantic Mail Line, every Tliursday, from Pier 4, N. R., fare 
$70 (to Nassau, $50); for Havana and Vera Cruz, every ten days, from Pier 3, N. 
R., fare $65, to Vera Cruz, $100 gold ; for Bermuda, from Pier 9, E. R., iiire $30. 
For St. Thomas and Brazil, from Pier 33, N. R., the 23d of each month ; to St. 
Thomas $100, Para $150, Rio Janeiro $225. From Pier 42, N. R., the Pacific 
Steamship Company sends vessels the 15th and 30th of each month to Kingston, 
Jamaica (fares $75 and $35); to Aspinwall ($100 and $41} ; connecting for Pana- 
ma ($ 125 and $66) and San Francisco ($ 150 and $60). The American coast — for 
Key West and Galveston, weekly, from Pier 20, E. R. ; fares to Key West, cabin 
$40, steerage $25, to Galveston, $65 and $35. For New Orleans, Merchants' 
Line, Pier 12, N. R., every Saturday at 3 ; Cromwell Line, every Saturday, from 
Pier 9, E. R. ; Southern Line, Pier 21, E. R. ; fares on either line, cabin $50, 
steerage $ 25. For Fernandina and the Florida ports, from Pier 29, N. R. For 
Savannah, Atlantic Line, Thursdays, Pier 36, N. R. ; Black Star Line, Saturdays, 
Pier 13, N. R. ; Empire Line, Saturdays, Pier 8, N. R. ; Murray's Line, Thurs- 
days (3 p. M.), Pier 16, E. R. ; fares on either line, cabin $20, steerage $10. For 
Charleston, Pier 5, N. R., Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 3 p. m., fares $20 and $12 ; 
for Norfolk ($10) and Richmond ($12), from Pier 37, N. R., Tues., Thurs., and 
Sat. ; for Newborn, tri-monthly, Pier 16, E. R. ; for Washington and Alexandria, 
semi-weekly. Pier 29, E. R. ; for Philadelphia, tri-weekly. Piers 33 and 34, E. R. ; 
for New Bedford, semi-weekly. Pier 13, E. R. ; for Boston (outside). Pier 14, N. 
R. ; for Portland, semi-weekly. Pier 38, E. R. 

Coastwise and river lines. — The Hudson — Day boats leave Pier 39, N. R., at 
8.30 A. M., for Yonkers, Tarry town, AVest Point, Cornwall, Newburgh, Poughkeep- 
sie, Rhinebeck, Catskill, Hudson, Tivoli, Albany, and Troy (ftire, $2 ; meals ex- 
tra) ; the evening boats for Albany and Troy leave Piers 41, 43, and 44, N. R. at 
6 P. M. (Saturdays excepted). The Mary Powell leaves Pier 39, N. R., at 3.30 
p. M., for Cozzens', West Point, Cornwall, Newburgli, Milton, Poughkeepsie, and 
Rondout. Tlie Chrystenah leaves Pier 34, N. R. at 3.45 p. m., for Yonkers, Irv- 
ington, Tarrytown, Nyack, Grassy and Verplanck's Points. Steamers from Pier 
34, N. R. at 4 p. M., to Cozzens', Cornwall, Newburgh, Poughkeepsie, and Esopus : 
and from Pier 43, N. R. at 4.30 p. m., to Cold Spring, Cornwall, Haverstraw, 
Newburgli, and New Hamburg. Other river boats leave Piers 34, 35, 49, 
and 51, N. R. daily. — The harbor and East River — to Bergen Pohit, Mari- 
ner's Harbor, and Elizabethport at 11 A. m. and 4.30 p. m., from Pier 14, N. 
R. (fare, 20c.); to Keyport, N. J., daily at 4 p. M.,from Pier 26, N. R. ; to 
Long Branch, 4 times daily (in summer) from Pier 8, N. R. ; to Perth Aniboy and 
landings on Staten Island Sound, daily at 3 p. m., from Pier 13, N. R. ; to New- 
ark from Pier 26, N. R., at 10.30 and 4.30 ; to Red Bank and the N. J. Highlands, 
daily, from Pier 35, N. R. ; to S. Amboy ; to Staten Island, hourly, from White- 
hall and Pier 19, N. R. ; to Bay Ridge from Wall St. Ferry ; to Coney Island from 
Pier 1, E. R., at 9, 12, and 3 o'clock ; to Astoria and Harlem, 16 trips daily 
from Peck Slip ; to Morrisania and Harlem, 9 trips daily, from Pier 22, E. R. 
Long Island Sotind — to Flushing, College Point, and Unionport, from Pier 
22, E. R. : to Glen Cove, Glenwood, Great Neck. Whitestone, Sand's Point, and 
Rosljai, from Pier 24, E. R., at 4 p. m. ; to Glen Cove, Sands' Point, Whitestone, 
Sea Cliff, and Great Neck, from Pier 26, E. R., at 5 p. m. ; to Huntington, Cokl 
Spring, and Oyster Bay, from Pier 37, E. R., at 4 p. m. ; to Greenport, New Suf- 
folk, Sag Harbor, and Orient, from Pier 4, N. R., at 5 p. m. ; to Greenwich, Stam- 
ford, and Norwalk, every afternoon, from Pier 37, E. R. ; to Bridgeport, at 11.30 
and 4 ; and from Pier 35, E. R., at noon and midnight (fare, $ 1) ; to New Haven, 
at 3.15 and 11, from Pier 37, E. R. (fare, $1.25) ; to Middletown and Hartford, 
from Pier 24, E. R., at 4 p. m. (fare, $1.50) ; to New London (and Boston) and 
Norwich, from Pier 40, N. R., at 5 p. m. ; to Stonington (and Boston), from Pier 
33, N. R., at 5 p. m. ; to Newport, Fall River (and Boston), from Pier 28, N. R., at 
5 p. M. (eaiiier in winter) ; to Providence, from Pier 27, N. R., at 5 p. m. 



12 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

New York City, the commercial metropolis of the United States and 
the chief city of the Western Hemisphere, is situated on Manhattan 
Island, at the month of the Hudson River, in latitude 40^ 42' 43" N. and 
longitude 3° 1' 13" E. from AVashington. The island is 13| M. long and 
fiom h, M, to 2J M. wide (containing 22 square M.), and is bounded on the 
W. by the Hudson (or North) River, on the E. by the East River, and on 
tlie N. by the Harlem River and Spuyten Duyvil Creek, while its S. end 
looks out on the Bay of New York and is 17 M. from the open sea. The 
S, part of the island consists of alluvial deposits, but low rocky ridged 
are found along the centre and extend N. to the cliffs of Washington 
Heights. Tlie city extends in compact lines for 5-6 M. N. of the Bat- 
tery, and the district above the densely settled streets is studded with 
villas and parks, public and charitable buildings, and market-gardens. 
The upper part of the island, and the rural towns of Westchester County 
Avhich were recently annexed to New York, are comparatively thinly in- 
habited, by reason of their distance from the business part of the city. 
Schemes of viaduct raihvays and underground tunnels are now in various 
stages of development, and are designed to afford a means of rapid tran- 
sit up and down the island. The grand avenue called Broadway runs 
from the Battery to the Central Park, beyond which the broad and costly 
Boulevard leads to the upper end of the island. The city is laid out some- 
what irregularly from tlie Battery to Union S(piare (2| M.), but beyond 
that point straight parallel streets extend from river to river. These 
streets are numerically designated; are called East or West from the point 
where 5th Ave. intersects them, and are each 60 ft. wide (except 14th, 
23d, 34th, 42d, and several farther N., which are 100 ft. wide) ; 20 of these 
blocks (as from 14th to 34th St.) make 1 M. Tlie numbered streets are 
crossed at right angles by 12 numbered avenues, 800 ft. apart and 100 ft. 
wide (except Madison and Lexington Aves., 75 ft. wide, and 4th Ave. 
above 34th St., 140 ft. wide). 3d Ave., on the E. side, and 8th Ave., on 
the W., are the principal highways above 14th St. ; and 5th, Park, Lex- 
ington, and Madison Aves., with their connecting cross-streets, are the 
most fashionable quarters for residences and churches. On the E. projec- 
tion of the island, beyond Tompkins Square, are avenues A, B, C, and D. 

The Bay of New York is one of the most picturesqiie in the world, and 
affords a safe ancliorage for the largest commercial fleets and the great 
vessels of the transatlantic steamship lines. About 20,000 vessels an- 
nually enter this port, and are acconmiodated at 75 piers on the North 
River, and 70 on the East River. 65 per cent of the imports and 50 per 
cent of the exports of the United States pass through New York. The 
inner harbor is entered by a deep strait called the Narrows, which is de- 
fended by the most powerfvd and imposing fortifications and armaments 
in the Western World. 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 13 

Tlie site of New York was discovered by the Florentine mariner, Verrazzani, in 
the year 1524. On Sept. 4, ItiOy, the harbor was visited by Hendi-ick Hudson, 
commanding a vessel of the Dutch East India Company, who reported it as " a 
very good land to fall in with, and a pleasant land to see " ; and in memory of the 
scene of wassail and merriment that followed the meeting of the sailors and the 
natives, the Indians named the island Manhattan ("the place where they all got 
drunk "). Hudson then ascended the river since named in his honor to the site 
of Albany, and claimed the land by right of discovery, as an appanage of Holland. 
Trading expeditions soon passed from Holland to the new land, and in 1613 a fort 
was built on Manhattan Island. Later in that year, the colony was broken up by 
Argall of Virginia, with the same British fleet that had driven the Jesuits from 
Mt. Desert. The States-General of the United Netherlands now encouraged fresh 
emigrations to the contested domain ; and the country received the name of the 
New Netherland. 

In 1614 a Dutch colony came over and built houses and a fort (near the present 
Bowling Green), naming the place New Amsterdam, in honor of that city which 
had taken the foremost part in the enterprise. In 1626 arrived Peter Minuit, the 
lirst Dutch governor, who bought Manhattan Island of the Indians for $24. He 
was succeeded by Wouter Van Twiller (1633), William Kieft (163S), and Peter Stuy- 
vesant (1647). In 1653 a rampart was built along Wall St., to keei) out the Ind- 
ians ; and in 1658 the lirst wharves were built. In 1664, Peter Stuyvesant being 
Captain-General, and the place having about 1,800 inhabitants, King Charles II. 
of England granted all the land from the Connecticut to the Delaware Iliver to 
his brother James (Duke of York and Albany, and afterwards King James II. of 
England). An English fleet of 4 frigates and 450 soldiers captured New Amsterdam 
and Fort Orange (up tlie Hudson), and named them respectively New York and 
Albany, in honor of the royal duke in whose domain they lay. At the treaty of 
Dreda, this new conquest was conlirmed to England in exchange for Surinam. A 
Dutch fleet retook the place in 1673 : but after about a year, it was restored to the 
British crown. During the English Revolution Capt. Jacob Leisler seized the 
fort and assumed the government in the name of the Prince of Orange (King Wil- 
liam of England). He controlled the province and city during a period of bitter 
political struggles and foreign invasions , but refused "to acknowledge the author- 
ity of the new governor sent from England, and was arrested, tried, ami executed. 

In 1698 Trinity Church was founded ; in 1702 the first free gramnaar-school was 
opened ; in 1711 a slave-market was established in Wall St. ; and in 1725 the Kcw 
York Gazette was founded. A line of stages to Boston was started in 1732, the 
time of passage being 14 days. In 1741, during the excitement caused by disas- 
trous conflagrations and the spread of the yellow fever, the so-called Negro Plot 
was imagined. This causeless panic was more terrible in its results than the Sa- 
lem witchcraft delusion ; and within 6 months 154 negroes and 20 whites were 
imprisoned, and 13 negroes were burned at the stake, 20 were hung, and 78 were 
transported. The connnerce of the city increased rapidly, and its merchants 
made a bold and decided stand against the unjust aggressions of the British Par- 
liament. In 1765 a Colonial Congress convened here during the Stuni]) Act ex- 
citement, and effigies of the governor and the Devil were burned in public. In 
1770, 3,000 citizens met to organize against tlie new taxation, and the landing of 
tea was forbidden by the people. The statues of King George III. and Lord 
Chatliam were destroyed, and the artillery of the forts was carried away into the 
Highlands. The American army, under Washington, occupied the city in 1776 ; 
but, after the adverse battles on Long Island and Harlem Heights, the British 
troops held the place for 7 years. Part of the city was burnt ; part of it was 
turned into barracks, hospitals, and prisons ; and thousands of American prison- 
ers were confined on floating hulks in tlie East River. Nov. 25th, 1783 (whose 
annivei'sary is celebrated yearly as Evacuation Day), the British troops embai'ked, 
and Washington and the Governor of the State entered the city in triumph. In 
1785 the first Federal Congress met here ; and here, in 1789, Washington was 
inaugurated President. Commerce was paralyzed by the Embargo of 1810, and 
grass grew on the streets and wharves. The first steamboat was put on the Hud- 
son in 1807, and the Erie Canal was completed in 1825, amid splendid celebrations 
throughout the State. Gas was introduced in 1825. In 1832 the Asiatic cholera 
carried off 4,360 persons. In 1835 a conflagration destroyed $18,000,000 worth of 
property, and the financial crisis of 1837 ruined thousands of mei'chants. Though 



14 Route 1, NEW YORK CITY. 

frequently scourged witli fire and pestilence, the growth of the city was not re- 
tarded. The Crotou Aqueduct was completed in l^-^i, at a cost of §9,000,000, 
since which over §30,000,000 have been spent on it, a)id §22,000,000 have been 
received for water taxes. A great fire in IS-ia caused a loss of §5-7,000,000 ; and 
in 1849 and 1S54 came the disastrous visitations of the cholera. New York has 
grown rapidly since the introduction of the railroad system, and the most remote 
parts of the States are reached by its lines of track. Scores of ocean-steamers and 
fleets of packet-ships bring iu the products of all continents, and bear away full 
cargoes of Western gi-ain or the manufactures of the Middle and New England 
States. At the outbreak of the Secession War, in 1801, the city was electrified 
with excitement ; barracks were built on its squares ; the New England regiments 
l)assed through its streets on the way South ; and i)owerful fleets were despatch^ 
thence to land national armies before the rebellious cities of the coast. 110,382 men 
of Nev,r York City entered tlie armies of the Republic. During the Rebel invasion 
of Pennsylvania, when many of the N. Y. militia were at the front, great mobs of 
degrailed foreigners and the outlaw classes arose in insurrection and occupied the 
city, driving Itack the i)olice, sacldng many stores and houses, and killing every 
negro or U. S. soldier whom they met (under pi-etence of resisting the drafting 
for the army). The reign of terror continued for several days, until the local regi- 
ments and a body of veteran ti'oops were hurried back into the city, and by 
an unsparing use of bayonet and grape-shot, drove the marauders into their 
dens. 

The population of New York City has increased from 1,000 in 1656 to 4,937 in 
1698, 10,604 in 1737, 21,862 in 1771, 00,489 in 1800, 123.700 in 1820, 312,710 in 1840, 
515,847 in 1850, 812,869 in 1860, and 1,021.000 in 1875 ; of whom 201,999 were 
Irish, 151,222 Germans, 24,432 English, 13,073 negroes. 8,267 French, 7,554 Scotch, 
4,338 Canadians, 2,790 Italians, 2,392 Poles, 2,109 Swiss, 1,569 Swedes, 1,293 Cu- 
bans, 1,237 Dutch, 1,139 Russians, 682 Danes, 587 Welsli, 464 Spaniards, 373 Nor- 
wegians, 328 Belgians, 213 S. Americans, 115 Chinese, 64 Mexicans, and 38 Turks. 
There are but two larger cities (London and Paris) in Christendom ; and if the 
poi)ulati(ni of the adjacent nnuiicipalities of Brooklyn and Jersey City are added 
to that of New York, it is the sixth city in the world. It is estimated that there 
are 1,500,000 persons in New York at noon on every .secidar day. Tlie assessed 
valuation of the real and personal estate of the city in 1875 was §1,100,943,690; 
and its taxes (exclusive of national) for 1870 amounted to i^ 25.303,860. In 
1870 there arrived at this port 14,587 vessels from the American coast, and 4,088 
vessels from foreign ports. Of the latter (and of all classes larger than schooners) 
1,621 were British, 1,245 American, 313 German, 98 Norwegian, 86 Italian, 36 
French, 30 Dutch, 30 Danish, 22 Swedish, 18 each of Spanish and Portuguese, 16 
Austrian, and 8 Russian. In the same year there were received here, 1,000,000 tons 
of ice, 2,831,036 head of live stock, 1,592,403 boxes of cheese, 24,000 tons of wool, 
75,000 tons of coffee, 19,000 tons of tea, 256,000 tons of sugar, 22,000,000 gallons of 
molasses, and § 109,498,523 worth of dry-goods ; and there were exported 87,000,000 
gallons of petroleum, 328,000 bales of cotton, and vast amounts of breadstufis and 
provisions. In 1873 the exports were §348,905,060; the imports, §398,505,830 
(on which were paid duties amounting to §115,510,935). In 1870 there were 54 
national banks, Avith a capital of §74,435,000 and resources of §375,152,000 ; 25 
State banks, with a capital of §13,940,850 ; and 32 savings-banks, with resources 
aiuimnting to §113,804,007. In 1870 there were 370 cluuches, valued at §43,000- 
000, and accommodating 308,500 persons. Of these, 72 were Episcopal, 52 Pres- 
byteiian, 50 Methodist, 41 Catholic, 31 Baptist, 21 Reformed Dutch, 27 Hebrew, 
and 18 Lutheran. In 1875 there Avere in the public schools and colleges 3,305 
teachers, and 277,310 pupils (in actual attendance). Over 10,000,000 strangers 
visit New York yearly. In 1870 there were 1,250 fatal accidents and 112 sui- 
cides. In the same year there were 0,848 drinking-saloons in N. Y., at which 
§38-50,000,000 were spent. The tire-brigade has 37 steam-engines, 15 ladder- 
trucks, and about 000 men. There are 400 M. of streets, 340 M. of Croton water- 
pipes, 275 M. of sewers, 19,000 gas-lights, 1,000 horse-cars (on 125 M. of street 
tracks), 207 omnibuses, 40,000 horses, 2,400 policemen, and 13,000 disciplined 
militia. 



f 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 15 

The Battery is a park at the S. end of Manhattan Island, adorned with 
large trees and verdant lawns, and fronted by a sea-Avall of massive ma- 
sonry. From the esplanade are obtained admirable * views of the Bay, 
with the Hudson River debouching on the r. and the East River on the 1. 
The populous heights of Brooklyn are to the E., with Governor's Island 
nearer at hand, on which the high walls of Castle William are seen, Avith 
the embankments of the less imposing but more powerful Fort Columbus, 
a star-fort mounting 120 heavy cannon. Farther down the harbor are 
Ellis and Bedloe's Islands, on which are Forts Gibson and Wood. 

Tlie curious round structure on the Battery was built for a fortress 

("Castle Clinton") in 1807, was ceded to the city in 1823, and was the 

scene of the civic receptions of the Marquis de Lafayette, Gen. Jackson, 

President Tyler, and others. It then became an opera-house, where 

Jenny Lind, Sontag, Parodi, Jullien, Mario, etc., made their appearance. 

The building is now used as a depot for inimigi*ants, who are received here from 
thuir ships, are given aid, information, and protection from sharpers, and are de- 
sixitehed to tlieir cliosen liomes in the West. Tins is the chief receiving and dis- 
tributing reservoir of the great tide of immigration from Eurojie. The total of the 
alien immigration to the U. S. between 1847 and 1870 was 4,297,085 persons ; of 
whom 1,001,009 were Irish, 1, 030,254 Germans, 5M,0G8 English, 111,238 Scot<ih. 
77,200 French, 05,007 Swiss, 64,538 Swedes, 28,347 Hollanders, 23,834 Welsh, and 
19,757 Norwegians. In 1871-73, there arrived at N. Y. 792,121 foreign immigrants; 
and since 1783 over 9,000,000 have entered the Republic, mostly by this port. 

From Whitehall, on the E. of the Battery, start the Staten Island, 
Bay Ridge, Governor's Island, South, and Hamilton (Brooklyn) Ferries, 
and boatmen may be engaged here for trips in the harbor. Several omni- 
bus and horse-car routes converge at Whitehall (on which, corner of Pearl 
St., is the large building of the Corn Exchange). From this point South St. 
follows the East River shore for over 2 M., passhig the ferries to the Long 
Island cities, and the piers at which lie hundreds of stately packet and clip- 
per ships and humbler coasting-vessels. Bowling Green, the cradle of New 
York, is just N. of the Battery. Near by Fort Amsterdam was built in 
1635, and in 1770 an equestrian statue of King George III. (of gilded lead) 
was set up on the Green. In 1776 the statue was overthrown by the 
people, and taken to Litchfield, Conn., where it was melted into bullets, 
for the Contmental army. West St. runs N. along the Hudson River 
shore for over 2 M. from the Battery, passing the piers of hundreds of 
steamers and the ferries to the New Jersey shore. (I'he Hudson is often 
called the North River, a name given by the early Dutch colonists to dis- 
tinguish it from the Delaware River, which they called the South River.) 
The house No. 1 Broadway was built in 1760, and has served as tKe 
head-quarters of Lord Howe, Gen. Clinton, Lord Cornwallis, and Gen. 
Washington. Talleyrand once lived in this house, and Fulton died along- 
side it. Benedict Arnold lived at No. 5 Broadway, and Gen. Gage had 
his head-quarters at No. 11. 



16 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

A short distance above the Green is * Trinity Church, a noble Gothic 
building of brown-stone, with a steeple 284 ft. high. The interior is 192 
ft. long and 60 ft. high, with a deep chancel lighted by a superb window, 
and with massive columns separating the nave from the aisles. The 
church is open all the week, and the ascent of the spire (308 steps ; fee, 
12hc,.) should be made for the sake of the view from the top. To the E. 
is Long Island Sound and the hills of Connecticut; on the S. is the noble 
hai'bor, with its fleets and fortified islands and the fair villages of Staten 
Island in the distance; to the W,, across the Hudson, are Jersey City, 
Bergen, Newark, and Elizabeth, and the blue hills of Orange ; and up 
river from Jersey City are Hoboken and Weehawken, with the Palisades 
and the distant blue Highlands in the N. The thronged and brilliant 
Broadway runs N. E. for 2 M., to Grace Church, and the great mass of 
the city is seen on either hand, while the course of the East River may 
be followed by Flushing and Astoria, to Brooklyn, beyond which ai-e the 
groves of Prospect Park and Greenwood. Directly below is the crowded 
Wall St. , along whose line ran the walls of New Amsterdam. There is a 
large and venerable graveyard about the church, in which are buried Alex- 
ander Hamilton, Capt. Lawrence (of the Chesapeake), Albert Gallatin, 
Robert Fulton, and other noted men, and the unfortunate Charlotte Tem- 
ple ; while in one corner is a stately Gothic monument to the patriots who 
died in the British prisons at N. Y. during the Revolution. The Trinity 
Parish is the oldest in the city, and the first church on the present site 
was built in 1G96. In 1705 Queen Anne gave it a fine communion service 
(still preserved) and also a large tract of land on Manhattan Island, which 
has since so increased in value that this church is the richest in America 
(worth abovit JB 9,000,000), and spends immense sums annually in benefac- 
tions among the poor of New York, besides sujiporting a considerable 
body of clergy and a choir which is unsurpassed in the country. There 
are morning and evening prayers daily in the church (9 a. m. and 3 P. M.), 
with imposing choral services on Sunday, The chime of bells in the 
steeple is the finest in America. 

Wall St. runs from Trinity Church to the shores of East River, and is 
the resort of bankers and brokers, and the financial centre of the Republic. 
The stately * IT. S. Sub-Treasury is on the corner of Wall and Nassau 
Sts., on the site of the liall wlierc Washington was inaugurated first Presi- 
dent of the U. S. (1789). It is built in partial imitation of the Parthenon 
at Athens, with Doric colonnades and a classic pediment, and a lofty 
interior rotunda, supported by 16 Corinthian columns. It is of Massa- 
chusetts marl)le (with granite roof), and took 8 years in building, costing 
$2,000,000 (visitors admitted, 10-3 o'clock). In this vicinity the chief 
American banking-houses are located ; and opposite is the superb Drexel 
building (built in the Renaissance style, at a cost of 1 700,000). Broad 



NEW YORK CITY. Rmde 1. 17 

St., tlie home of speculators and brokers, leads S. from the Treasury (at 
No. 10 is the Stock Exchange) ; and to the N, runs the narrow and busy 
Nassau St., on which (2 squares distant) is a quaint old edifice, which was 
built in 1723-26, for the Middle Dutch Church. It was used during the 
Revolution as a prison for Americans and a riding-school for Biitish cav- 
alrymen ; but was reoccupied by the church society from ITSl until 1844, 
when it was secularized, and was used for the post-office from 1861 until 
1875. In the steeple of this church Franklin developed his theories of 
electricity. On Wall St., below the Treasury, is the * U. S. Custom House, 
a massive building of Quincy granite, which was built in 1835 for the 
Merchants' Exchange, at a cost of $ 1,800,000. It is 200 by 171 ft., and 
has a portico of IS Ionic columns, while a dome 124 ft. liigh overarches 
a rotunda which is 80 ft. in diameter, and is surrounded by 8 Corinthian 
columns of Italian marble (open to visitors, 10-3 o'clock). The Bank 
of New York is opposite the Custom House, and just below is Pearl St. , 
the seat of a heavy wholesale trade in cotton and other staples. A ferry 
runs from the foot of Wall St. to Montague St., Brooklyn. Returning to 
Bi'oadway, the stately buildings of the Bank of the Republic, the Metro- 
politan Bank, the * Equitable Life Ins. Co. (137 ft. high), the Western 
Union Telegraph Co. (ten stories high), and other corporations are 
passed. John St. (to the E.) leads to the oldest Methodist Church in 
America (built in 1768) ; and on William St., near John St., Washington 
Irving was born. Fulton St. turns off by the Evening Post's immense 
building, and leads to Fulton Ferry, passing an active business quar- 
ter and the Fulton Market. St. PauVs Church (Epis.), on the W. side 
of Broadway, was built in 1766, and has a statue of St. Paul on its pedi- 
ment, with a mural tablet in the front wall over the remains of Gen. 
Montgomery. Opposite the church are the floridly ornamented Park Baidt 
and the extensive and elegant Herald Building (both of marble), occupy- 
ing the site of Barn urn's Museum (bunied in 1865). The long and un- 
adorned granite front of the Astor House comes next, on the 1. side of 
Broadway, with Vesey St. diverging to the 1. to the great Washington 
Market, whose rude and unsightly sheds are filled with a rare display of 
the fruits and vegetables, meats and fish, of the adjacent districts. This 
is the chief of the 11 markets of the city, and should be seen early on Sat- 
urday morning. Park Row stretches obliquely to the r., from the Astor 
House to Printing-House Square, where there is a bronze statue ofiJBen- 
jamin Franklin. This vicinity is one of the great intellectual centres of 
America, and here are seen the offices of the Herald, Times, Tribune, World, 
Sun, Evening Mail, Telegram, Neics, Express, Day Book, and Journal 
(all dailies, besides a great number of weekly papers). The lofty and 
symmetrical granite building of the Staats Zeitung (a German daily) is seen 
to the N., and the new Tribicne Building rises loftily on the E. of the 



18 Route 1. NEW YOEK CITY. 

square. It is nine stones (150 ft.) high, with a tower 285 ft. above 
tiie foundations, and is also completely fire-proof. The Christian Union, 
Independent, Home Journal, and Daily Grai)hic are published in Park 
Place. By turning from Printing-House Square down Frankfort St., 
Franklin Square is reached, Avith the vast publishing-house of the Har- 
pers. 

Nassau St. runs S. from Printiug-House Square to Wall St., passing 
the old Post-OInce. It is a narrow, close street betAveen lofty buildings, ^ 
and is usually crowded with hurrying business men. The buildings are 
occupied by thousands of small offices ; the periodical and cheap novel 
trade is largely centred here; in the cellars vast collections of old books 
are exposed for sale; and near Wall St. are several wealthy banking- 
houses. Chatham St., the prolongation of Park Row, runs to the N. E. 
to Chatham Square, and is a narrow and dirty street, lined with dilapidated 
buildings, which are the homes of Jew tradesmen, old-clothes dealers, 
pawnbrokers, and low concert-saloons. From Chatham Square, unclean, 
crowded, and repulsive streets diverge on all sides ; and a short distance 
to the W. are the gloomy purlieus of the Five Points. Pamning N. from 
Chatham Square is the Bowery, a broad and crowded thoroughfare which 
conducts, in 1 M., to the Cooper Institute. Although near Broadway, 
and nearly parallel with it, the Bowery fonus a complete antithesis to 
that splendid thoroughfare. It is the avenue of the lower classes, and is 
lined with beer and concert saloons, shooting-galleries, policy-shops, lodg- 
ing-houses, pawnbrokers, Jew merchants, and cheap retail shops, many 
of which are kept open on Sunday. The population here is cosmopolitan 
and rmassimilated, consisting principally of Germans, and many of the 
signs are in German. Since the dismissal of the volunteer fire-department, 
the up-town march of business, and tiie new police system, the Bowery 
lias greatly improved, and the ruffian bands of the " Bowery Boys " and 
" Dead Rabbits " no longer wage sanguinary war upon each other and 
the city guardians. 

At the S. end of the City Hall Park, and opposite the Astor House, is 
the new *TJ. S. Post-Office, an immense and stately gi-anite building, 
Avith lofty Louvre domes and a frontage (on the 4 sides) of 1,080 ft. The 
architecture is Doric and Renaissance (in those peculiar forms which Super- 
vising Architect Mullett has used in all the new national buildings), and 
the front is adorned Avith 20 statues. The granite columns and blocks 
were cut and carved ready for their places at the Dix Island Quarries 
(Maine), and the building is incombustible. The lower floors are for 
the Post-Office (Avith a public corridor 600 ft. long and 25 ft. wide) ; 
the upper floors are for the U. S. Courts ; and twelve elevators keep 
up vertical communication. The building Avas occupied in 1875, and prob- 
ably cost $ 7,000,000. The City Hall is N. of the Post-Office, and is a 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 19 

fiiiebiUlding of Massaclmsetts marlile, 216 by 105 ft., with Ionic, Corin- 
thian, and Composite pihisters lining its front. It has a graceful clock- 
tower, which is ilhmiinated at night. The Governor's room contains many 
portraits of New York worthies, painted by various American artists, and 
the table on which Washington wrote his first message to Congress ; the 
chairs of the first Congress and of Washington are preserved in the Alder- 
man's and Mayor's rooms ; and the Library is open all day. The City 
Hall was built 1803-10, and cost $ 700,000. N. of this edifice is the new 
Court House, a massive marble building in Corinthian architecture, 250 
by 150 ft., and completely fire-proof. 

The Court House was founded in 1861, and the cost of its construction was esti- 
mated at $800,000 ; but the infamous Tammany Ring gained control in the city (in 
18GO-70-71), and drew from the treasm-y over 812,000,000 on its account. 
$5,091,144 was received by J. H. Ingersoll (liow in Sing Sing Prison) for furniture 
and repairs at the Court House and militia armories : and $ 2,905,404 was paid to 
A. J. Garvey for plastering and painting the same. The Tannnany Ring (so called 
from Tammany H;dl, the Uemocratic head-quarters) consisted of a number of un- 
scrupulous men, ignorant and low-born, who got hito power in the municipal 
government during a season of general apathy among the voters of the city. Hav- 
ing made their positions secui-e by heavily bribing the State Legislature and all 
other corrective iiowers, they entered upon a career of open plundering and un- 
blushing theft, presenting "an example of criminal abuse of public trust without 
parallel in the history of the Avorld." The Court House was a mine of wealth to 
the Ring, and in its present incomi)lete condition (a lofty and graceful dome is to 
be added) has cost as much as the Houses of Parliament at London, or the Capitol 
at Washington. The authorities attempted to suppress the freedom of speech and 
the liberties of the press, and during their rule the government of the city cost 
$30,000,000 a year. In July, 1871, a dissension arose in the Ring, and one of its 
members made a public statement of the robberies. The newspapers turned their 
immense power agaii\st the corrupt powers ; the citizens arose and appointed a 
committee of 70 ; the Democratic leaders of the old school repudiated their un- 
lu-incipled partisans ; and at the ensuing elections the Ring was overwhelmingly 
defeated. Some of its members fled befoi'e the storm of popular wrath ; the i-est 
Avcre tried before the civil courts. A few escaped, bearing an ineffaceable stigma ; 
and others were sentenced to years of penal servitude in the State in-isons. Wm. 
M. Tweed, the ." Boss " of the Ring (formerly a chairnialver's apprentice and fore- 
man of a company of rufihinly firemen), made 8 15-20,000,000 out cf the plunder ; 
aud was sentenced I'in 1873) to 12 years' imprisonment in tlie penitentiary, lie 
escaped and fled in 1875. " Not an oflicial implicated in these infamies has had 
the virtue to commit suicide." 

Opposite the Court House is the great marble building devoted to A. 
T. Stewart's wholesale trade (shawls, silks, and dry-goods), standing on 
the site of a British fort of 1776-83. Passing up Broadway, with im- 
mense and costly buildings on either side, and similarly lined streets run- 
ning off to the r. and 1., the brilliant windows, the throngs on the side- 
walks, and the roar of the street cause constant surprise. At the corner 
of Pearl and Elm Sts. is the printing-house of Frank Leslie. On the r. 
is the " Bloody Sixth " Ward (bounded by Broadway, Canal, Bowery, 
and Chatham Sts.), with its dense and dangerous population, its filth, 
poverty, and crime. Leonard St. diverges to the r. to the city prison, 
called the Tombs, a granite building in the form of a hollow square, 200 
by 252 ft. It is massively built iu the gloomiest and heaviest form of 



20 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

Egj^tian arcliitechire, and is usually crowded with criminals. In the 

interior of the quadrangle is the place of executions. A short distance 

beyond, at the intersection of Baxter, Park, and Worth Sts., is the Five 

Points, formerly the most terrible locality in the city and Republic, but 

now somewhat improved by the aggressions of religious missions. In this 

vicinity are the crowded and reeking tenements, the narrow and filthy 

alleys, the imspeakable corruption and utter depravity, of the slums of tlie 

Empire City. It is well to be accompanied by a policeman during a visit 

to this district, both to insure personal safety and to learn minute details 

(late evening is the best time). 

The Five Points Mission (founded in 1850, "to provide food and clothing for 
llie poor, to provide lor destitute children, and to furniyh temporary shelter and 
aid to the homeless ") is at 61 Park St., .ind elothes and educates 450 children. 
Tlie Five Points House of Industry (155 Worth St.) was founded in 1854, and has 
fiiniishcd over 5,000,000 meals, lodges 90,000 yearly, and supports 400 children 
and 40 homeless women yearly. The Howard Mission (40 New Bowery) is on the 
verge of slums that reek with appalling degradation, and is doing a noble philan- 
thropic work. Near Baxter St. is the Chinese quarter, inhabited by quiet and 
industrious Celestials, with a plurality of Irish wives. 

Advancing up Broadway, Walker St. is seen leadhig to the 1. to the 
Hudson River R. R. freight depot, whose W. front is adorned by the 
largest bronze groups in the world (emblematic of Vanderbilt's career). 
The ancient Chapel of St. John fronts on the depot, which was built on 
St. John's Park. Passing now up Broadway by the superb white marble 
building (in Ionic architecture, costing $1,000,000) of the N. Y. Life In- 
surance Co., and the tall Brandreth House, the broad thoroughfare of 
Canal St. is crossed. At 472 Broadway, near Grand St., is the Appren- 
tices' Library (48,000 volumes). Lord and Taylor's vast wholesale store, 
the St. Nicholas Hotel, Appleton's brilliantly adorned bookstore, and 
Ball, Black, & Co. 's jewelry store, are seen on the 1. ; with the Prescott 
and Metropolitan Hotels and several theatres on the r. 

Prince St. leads to the E. to the Cathedral of St. Patrick, a large plain building 
which dates from 1815, and has in its graveyard a monument "A la memoire de 
Pierre Landais, Ancien Contre-Amiral des Etats Unis, Qui disparut Juin 1818." 
Beyond the Olympic Theatre, Broadway is crossed by Bleecker St., the Latin 
quarter of N. Y., and " the head-quarters of Bohemiani.sm " ; near which (at 300 
Mulberry St.) is the Police Head-quarters, from which telegraphic wires run to all 
parts of the city. There are about 2,400 policemen, of whom 700 are on duty by 
day, and 1,400 j^atrol the streets at night. They are armed with clubs and revolv- 
ers ; are carefully drilled in infantry tactics ; and have always proved brave and 
resolute in the presence of danger. The Broadway squad is composed of men 
choseu from tlie whole force on account of their superior stature and fine appear- 
anee. Close by the Police Head-quarters is Harry Hill's dance-house, a dangerous 
resort of the disreputable classes. Near the corner of Amity and Greene Sts. is 
the MidnigU Mission, a charitable reformatory institution whicjh has achieved 
great results for good in one of the worst parts of the city. 

The second side street to the 1. beyond the lofty Grand Central Hotel 
leads to Washington Square, a pleasant park of 9i acres, laid out on the 
old Potter's Field, where over 100,000 bodies are buried in trenches. On 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 21 

the E. side is the University of the City of Neio York, a fine marble build- 
ing 200 ft. long, in English collegiate architecture, with a large Gothic 
window lighting the chapel. The University was founded in 1831, and 
has schools of art, medicine, law, civil engineering, and chemistry, with 
about 50 professors and teachers, and from 500 to 600 students. Along- 
side the University is a handsome stone church of the Methodists. 
On E. Washington Place is the home of Cornelius Vanderbilt, the railroad 
king, who was bom on Staten Island in 1794, and operated in the steam- 
boat trade for 40 years. He then turned his attention to railroads, and is 
now worth $ 40,000,000. Above the Grand Central flotel, Astor Place 
leads off obliquely to the r. to the Mercantile Library, a circulating 
library of about 160,000 volumes (with 8 branches in adjacent cities), 
which has a reading-room containing 452 periodicals (open 9 a. m, to 10 
P. M. ; $ 5 a year ; strangers admitted to read on introduction from mem- 
bers). This library is in Clinton Hall, the first opera-house in N. Y. 
Here occurred the fatal riots between the people and the patricians, dur- 
ing Macready's performances, when the military fired upon the mob and 
killed many persons. Close by (on the S.), in Lafayette Place, is the 
* Astor Library, occupying 2 lofty halls in a large Romanesque building. 
The library was endowed by John Jacob Astor with § 400,000, and ha:j 
over 150,000 volumes, besides rare old books and considerable depart- 
ments in the European languages (open to the public from 9 to 5 o'clock )• 
Adjohiing the library lived the late Wm. B. Astor, the richest citi- 
zen of the U. S., — a plain, cold, hard-working man, who was worth 
$ 60 - 100,000,000. The Bible House (at the end of Astor Place) is an im- 
mense structure, 6 stories high, covering j of an acre, with 728 ft. frontage, 
and containing 600 operatives. It belongs to the American Bible Society, 
and besides the vast number of Bibles issued from its presses, there are 13 
religious and philanthropic papers published in the building. Since 1817 
this Society has received nearly $6,000,000, and has issued 10,000,000 
Bibles and Testaments in 24 languages, besides granting $ 500,000 to mis- 
sionary stations. Several jiowerful religious organizations are domiciled 
in the Bible House. Opposite this pomt is the * Cooper Institute, a 
large brown-stone building which occupies an entire square, and was 
founded by Peter Cooper, a wealthy and philanthropic iron manufacturer 
of N. Y. (born in 1791, and still living). It has a great library and read- 
ing-room, mth courses of lectures and special studies (designing, teleg- 
raphy, etc., for Avomen), nearly all of which are free to the public. In 
this building are the rooms of the American Institute and the American 
Geographical Society. Just S. of the Institute is the iron building of the 
Tompkins Market, over which is the armory of the wealthy and aristo- 
cratic 7th Regiment of the National Guard of the State of N. Y., a thor- 
oughly disciplined corps of citizen-soldiers. 



22 Rouicl. NEW YORK CITY. 

Down 7tli St. to the E. is Tompldns Sqvare, an open gronn<l of lOi acres, used 
for the parades of the militia and police, and a favorite hreathiiig-place for the 
workingmcn who live in the vicinity. Here occurred the conflict between the 
communists and the police, in 1873. Retwecn Tomplcins Square and the Bowery 
is the densely populated 17th Yv'ard, v/ith '2.39.') tenement-houses, and 95,087 in- 
habitants, on i M. sciuare. Near Tompkins Square (;;d St., near Ave. A) is the 
Church of the Most Holy Redeemer (German Catholic), with a spire 265 ft. high. 

Stuyvesant Place leads N. E. from the Cooper Institute, passing the 
ancient Clnircli of St. Mark ("in the Bowerie"), which has the tonihs of 
the Dutch Captain-General Stuy^^csaut (died in 1682), the British Gov- 
ernor Sloughter, and the American Governor Tompkins. At the end of 
llie place is the yellow sandstone building of the N. Y. liistorical Society. 

It is to be regretted that, on account of some trifling depredations, the 
line collections of this Society arc closed against the people (except such as 
can get a ticket from a member). The Abbott collection ot' Egyptian an- 
tiquities Avas gathered by Dr. Abbott during a residence of -20 years in Cairo, and 
includes 1,118 specimens, among which arc ornaments, amulets, and statuettes 
in gold, silver, bronze, i)orcelain, alabaster, marble, ivory, and glass ; weapons, 
papjTi, and nuimmies ; 3 great munnnicd bulls ; the head of a colossal statue of 
the Pharaoh of the Exodus ; the armor of King Shisliak, captor of Jerusalem in 
071 B. c. ; strawless bricks of ^e Hebrew captivity ; the gold signet-ring of King 
Cheops, builder of the great PjTamid, in tlie year 2352 B. c . ; and the golden 
jev/eh-y of Menes, the first king named in history ('2771 b. c). The Lenox collec- 
tion of Nineveli sculptures includes 13 ]iieccs, reinesenting the mystical fi.^ures 
of the old Assj-rian theology. Hhc Gallery of Art has G07 pictures, including 10 
portraits by A. B. Durand.'ll by Jarvis, 4 by Elliott, S (Indians) by St. Mcimin, 3 
each by Ilicks, Hinitington, and Osgood ; 13 pictures by Flagg, and examples of 
Cranch, Ingham, Trumbull, Mount, the Peales, Stuart, Gignoux, Sully, Vander- 
lyn, Copley, Benjamin West, and Page. Among other worlcs of Tliomas Cole is 
tiic celebrated series called " Tlie Course of Emi)ire." Of the old masters there 
are (of the Flemish School) by Wouvermans 4 i)ictures, by Van der Vcldc 4, by 
Terburg 3, by Jan Botli 4, by Van Blocmen 3, by Tcniers the Younger 7, by 
Wcenix, Snyders, Steen, Ruysdael, Rembrandt, Van Ostade, Ncefs, i\Iabuse, 
Ilemling, Van Eyck, Douw, Cuy]), Brouvver, Berghem, Phillipe dc Champagne, 
Quintin Matsys, Van Dyek (3 pictures), and Rubens (5). Of the German School, 
by Valkenburg, Sehoen, Holbein (2), Durer, Denner, and Lucas Cranach (z). Of 
the French School, 5 by Nicholas Poussin, 3 by Guaspre Poussin, 4 of the school 
of Claude Lorraine, 2 Courtois, 2 Mignard, 4 Joscjih Vernet, 2 Horace Vernet, 3 
Decamps, 2 Boucher, 7 Watteau, G l.y J. B. Greuze, and exami)les of Prud'hon, 
Tourniere, Le Sueur, Chardin, and Rigaud. Of the English School, by Gains- 
borougli, Lawrence, West, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Hogarth. Of tlie Spanish 
School, 5 by Diego Velasquez, and 4 by Murillo. Of the School of Italy, 3 by 
Giottino, 2 Gaddi, 2 Memmi, Cimabue, Bordone ; 2 by Leonardo da Vinci, 2 
Giorgione, and originals by Uceello, Castagno, Botticelli, Perugino, Raphael, 
Ferrari, Fra Bartolomeo, Titian, Tintoretto, Zucco, Veronese, Del Piombo, and 
Andrea del Sarto ; 2 by Mantegna, 2 by Correggio, 3 by Annibale Caracci, and ex- 
amples by Romano, Luini, Bronzini, Domenichino, Guido, Gentileschi, Sassofer- 
rato, Canaletto, and the schools of Carlo Dolci and Salvator Rosa. There are 
about GO busts and pieces of statuary, by Brown, Greenough, Houdon, Chantrey, 
Palmer, Clevenger, Mills, Ives, Ball, Launitz, and the Crawford marbles. 

Returning to Broadway and passing N., the dry-goods store of A. T. 
Stewart & Co. is seen on the r. (corner of 9th St. ), with its 5 stories of iron 
and glass, and 15 acres of flooring. It is the largest store in the world, 
and its sales average $ 60,000 a day. There are about 2,000 employees in 
the building, and the salesrooms extend through 3 stories (the third being 
devoted to carpets). * Grace Church and Rectory are now seen on the r.. 



NEW YORK CITY. Roide 1. 23 

and are costly marble buildings in florid Gothic arcliitectiire. The lofty 
and graceful spire is much admired ; and the interior of the church, with 
40 stained windows, light columns, arches, and carvings, has a theatrical 
splendor. At tliis point Broadway bends to the 1., — passes the St. Denis 
and St. Germain Hotels, and the Methodist Book Concern (whose lower 
floor is occupied by James McCreery's elegant dry-goods store), — and 
enters Union Square between the lofty building of the Domestic Sewing- 
Machine Co. and Wallack's and the Union Square Theatres. Union 
Square contains a pleasant oval park 3^ acres in extent, with green lawns 
and shnibbery, and a population of English sparrows (imported by the 
city to exterminate the worms on the trees). Altliough formerly the 
most fashionable residence-quarter, the Square is now lined Avith fine 
hotels and stores. On the E. is a colossal equestrian * statue of Wash- 
ington, which is much admired ; and on the W. is a bronze statue of 
Lincoln. The palatial jewelry store of Tiff'any & Co. is on the corner of 
W. 15th St. ; and on the next square is Brentano's " literary head-quar- 
ters " (foreign magazines and papers). Farther up Broadway are the 
great dry-goods stores of Arnold, Constable, k Co. (corner of 19th St.) 
and Lord & Taylor (corner of 20th St.). 

1-lth St. runs E. from Union Scjuare liy Steinway Hall, the Academy 
of Music, Grace Church Chapel, and Tammany Hall (the head-quarters of 
the Democratic party in N. Y. ); and to the W. it passes through a line 
of stores and ofiices. At 128 W. l-lth St. is the * Metropolitan Museum 
of Art (open on Mondays, free ; on other days, 25c.). 

The pictures by the old masters are of undoubted authenticity, and wore pur- 
chased in Brussels and Paris iu 1S70. The gallery is entered by passing through 
tlie old conservatory and turning to the r. down a stairway. 1, Adoration of the 
Magi, Van dcr Melrc ; 2, Descent from the Cross, Van der Wcydcn ; 3, * Return 
of the Holy Family from Egypt, Rubens ; 4, Lions chasing Deer, Rubens ; 5, St. 
Martha at Prayer, Van Dyck ; 6, Portrait, Van Dyclc ; 7, Triumph of Bacclms, 
Jordaens ; 8, *Mexander and Diogenes, G. dc Grayer; 10, Marriage Festival, 
Tcniers the Younger ; 11, Italian Landscape, Huysmans ; 13 and 14, Landscapes, 
Breughel ; 15 and 1(5, Landscapes, Ryckaert ; IS and 19, Summer and Aiitunui, 
Vinckeboons ; 23 and l.'JO, Church Interiors, Nccfs the Younger ; 24, Pasture, Om- 
meganck ; the next 9 pictures are by Horcmans ; 35, Dives, Francken ; 36, 133, 
Combats of Cavalry, Van der Meulen ; 37, Interior of Antwerp Cathedral, Neefs ; 
39, Temptation of St. Anthony, Tcniers ; 40, 41, 124, Genre pictures by ])e France ; 
42, Gust of Wind, De Marne ; 43, Head of Christ, Bouts; 45, Old Fiddler, /. Van 
Ostade ; 05, Sunset, Van der Neer ; 47, Smoker, A. Van Ostade ; 50, Portrait, Ter- 
burg ; 51, Jacob and Laban, Victors ; 52, Italian Landscape, Both ; 53, View in 
Holland, Hobbema ; 57, 58, and 59, by Hugtenburgh ; 61, Dutch Kermesse, Jan 
Steen ; 56, Italian Seajiort, Weenix ; 71, The Halt, Wouvermans ; 73, Fauns and 
Nymphs Bathing, Poclenburg ; 74, 75, 76, Hunting Scenes, Be Vri.es ; SO and 81, 
Market Scenes, Gaet ; 83, Portrait, Sir Peter Lely ; 94-97, Children's Games, Al- 
bani ; 98, Portrait, Paris Bordone ; 103, Comical March, Pater; 104 and 105, 
Game Pieces, Oudry ; 107, lOS, 115, Game, Fyt ; 109, Banquet, Hals; 110, Dutch 
Kermesse, Ruysdael ; 113, Jewess of Tangier, Spanish School; 116, Environs of 
Haarlem, Van Goyen ; 118, St. John and tlie infant Jesus, /ordftois ; 120, Head 
of a Young Girl, Grenze ; 122, Leda, Van der Wcrff ; 123, Madoiuia, Sassoferrafo ; 
126, Portrait, Sir Josliua Reynolds ; 127, Jan Steen ; 129, Tippler, Van Mirris ; 
132, Sketch, Jordaens ; 135, The Crowning with Thorns, Tiepolo ; 183, Portrait, 



24 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

Van der Heist ; 139, Mj-tliological, W. Poussin ; 140, The Sacrifice of Abraham, 
Tiepolo ; 143, Cnicilixion, -L'oycrmcms ; 144, Portrait, Franz Hals; 145 and 140, 
Venetian Views, Guardi ; 150, Marine, and 151, View of Alkniaar, Buysdael ; 157, 
Ecce Homo, and 15S, Mater Dolorosa, Flemish Scliool; 162, Boar Hunting, Hon- 
dius ; 166, Fruit, Weenix ; 167, Fish, Van Beyeren ; 168, Quay at Leyden, Van der 
Heyden ; 170, Train-bands celebrating Peace, Hals; 171, Fruit, Velasquez; 172, 
Portrait, De Vries ; 174, Conquest of the Golden Fleece, Van Diepenbceck. 

In 1865 Gen. di Cesnola, an Italian noble, and a soldier of America in the Seces- 
sion War, was appointed U. S. Consul to Cyprus, He soon entered with ardor 
ujion the task of opening the buried Greek and Phoenician cities of the ancient 
island ; and in 7 years' labor amid the ruins of Citium, Idalium, Golgos, and Pa- 
l^hos, unearthed the present Cesnola Collection. The British Museum and othe» 
European collectors attempted to secure it, but the Metropolitan Museum suc- 
ceeded iu gaining the prize. The antiquities are more interesting in a historical 
and ethnological than an a-sthetic point of view. The conservatory contains the 
statuary from the temple at Golgos, inchiding Hercules and the high-priest of 
Venus, and other works, — Egyptian, Pha-nician, Archaic, and later Greek, 
Among the other objects in the collection may be mentioned, vases of all sizes, 
lamps, arms, and utensils of bronze and copper, jittery, amphoi-se, scarabaei, se- 
jnilchral columns, statuettes, gold and silver jewelry, gems, votive offerings, and 
serpentine and alabaster carvings. There are also groups of gold mortuary orna- 
ments, and a collection of 1,672 pieces of Greek glassware from the tombs at Ida^ 
lium and Citium. 

The most interesting collections of the Museum are those that are left on loan 
by the wealthy virtuosi of the city. Among these are many brilliant pictures by 
tlie American masters ; modern statuary ; Delft, Sevres, and porcelain wares ; 
anti(iue and mediaeval curiosities of many kinds ; carved, inlaid, and mosaic work ; 
coins and medals, etc. Exjilanatoi-y catalogues of the Cypriote collections and 
the old paintings are sold at the door (25c. each). 

At the corner of 14th St. and 6th Ave. is the armory of the 22d Regi- 
ment ; and to the S. on Gtli Ave. is the Jefferson Market, near the neAV 
and costly court-house and jail of the Third District. 

University Place runs S, from Union Square to tlie N, Y, University, 
passing the N, Y. Society Library (near 12tli St, ; founded in 1754 ; 
()4,000 volumes ; closed to the public), and the Union Tjieological Semi- 
nary of the Presbyterian Church, with 11 professors, 117 students, and a 
library of 33,000 volumes. 

Fourth Avenue runs N. from Union Square. 16th St. diverges to the 
r. to Stuyvesant Square and St. George's Church, a large brown- stone edi- 
fice in Romanesque architecture, Avith a lofty frescoed ceiling, and twin 
spires 245 ft. high. This is perhaps the foremost society of the Low 
Church Episcopalians in America, and is under the care of S. H. Tyng, 
D. D. Stuyvesant Square was part of the old "Bowerie" estate of the 
Dutch Governor Stuyvesant, and was given to the city by one of his de- 
scendants. On the corner of 2d Ave. and 13th St. is the trunk of a pear- 
tree which was imported by Stiayvesant from Holland, and flourished for 
200 years. Farther up 4th Ave. (comer of 20th St.) is the Church of All 
Souls (Dv. Bellows; Unitarian), a singular structure in Italian architec- 
ture, with alternate courses of brick and light-colored stone. (A short dis- 
tance to the r. on 20th St. is the patrician Gramercy Park. ) On the next 
corner is the Calvary Church (Epis.), a Gothic building of brown-stone ; 
and near by is St. PauVs Church (Meth. ), a Romanesque edihce of white 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 25 

marble. On the corner of 4th Ave. and 23d St. is the Young Men's 
Christian Association Braiding, a large and costly Renaissance structure 
of brown and Ohio stone, containing a fine library, reading-rooms, parlors, 
a gymnasium, and a public hall. Strangers will meet a kindly welcome 
here. Opposite the Y. M. C. A. is the elegant * National Academy of 
Design, built of gray and white marbles and blue-stone in the purer 
Gothic forms of the l'2th century, with certain features copied from the 
best Venetian architecture. It has an imposing entrance and stairAvay, 
leading to extensive galleries, where every spring and summer are held ex- 
hibitions of hundreds of the recent works of the best American artists 
(admission 25c. ; season-tickets, $1). 

The Suydam Collection is here on permanent deposit. Among the pictures are 
7 landscapes by Suydam, 4 portraits by Huntington, 2 landscapes by McEntee, 2 
portraits by Stone, 4 landscapes bv Kcnsett, 3 by Hicks, 2 by Church, Hubbard 
2, Green 2, Casilear 2, Shattuck 3,' Kellogg 3, Lang 2, Hart 2, Cro]>sey 2, GilTord, 
Chanipney, Diirand, Richards, Jolinson, Dana ; Boughton 3, Lanibertin 2, Frere 
2, Lambdin 2, Noel, Ockcl, Mignot, Guillemin, Diaz, Flanun, Achenbach, and 
Calame. Besides these there are several copies from anti(iues, and the original 
Marriage of St. Catherine, by Correggio (catalogues in the gallery). 

E. of the Academy (on 23d St. ) are the N. Y. College of Physicians and 
Surgeons, the Demilt Dispensary, the Ophthalmic Hospital, and the Col- 
lege of the City of N. Y. (corner of Lexington Ave. ; 824 students ; 
16,000 vols, in library). Passing W. along 23d St., * Madison Square is 
soon reached (3 M. from the Battery), a bright and fashion-favored park 
of 6 acres, surrounded by club-liouses and palatial hotels (Fifth Avenue, 
Hoffman, Brunswick, etc. ), and adorned with a monument to Gen. Worth. 
23d St. runs thence to the Hudson River, passing Booth's Theatre, with 
the imposing Masonic Temple on the opposite corner, and tlie Grand 
Opera House on the corner of 8th Ave. Turning to the 1. from 23d St. 
down 9th Ave. to 20tli St., there may be seen tlie plain stone buildings 
of the richly endowed and flourishing General Theological Seminary of the 
Episcopal Church. Broadway runs from Madison Square N. to Central 
Park in 2 M., passing at first through a cluster of hotels, chief among 
which is the picturescpie Stevens House {hotel garni, corner of 27th St.). 
Beyond Wood's Museum (corner of 30th St.) and the stately Congrega- 
tional Tabernacle (corner of 34th St.), a divergence to the 1. leads to the 
Manhattan Market, which is at the foot of W. 34th St., and is tlie best 
building of the kind in the city. It was built in 1871, and cost about 
$1,250,000, being 800 ft. long and 200 ft. wide. The view from the 
tower (228 ft. high) uji and down the Hudson River is highly conmiended. 
At the coraer of Broadway and 52d St. arc the three great palaces of the 
Hotels Newport, Saratoga, and Albany, French-flat houses. 



2G Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

From the point where Broadway reaches the Central Park (corner of 
8th Ave. and 59th St.) a grand avenue called the Boulevard, with a 
parked centre and graceful curves, runs N. to the Harlem River. It is 
yet new, and has few houses, but is intended for the Champs Elysees of 
New York. At 73d St. is passed the N. Y. Orphan Asylum, an elegant 
Gothic building on 15 acres of groimd sloping to the Hudson (200 chil- 
dren). At 86th St., near the Riverside Boulevard, is the House of 
Mercy, with its tine chapel. It was founded in 1854: by the Episcopal 
Church, for reforndng young women, and is under the care of the Sisters 
of St. Mary. The Leake and Watts Orphan House is at 111th St., and 
accommodates 250 children. Near this point is the ncAV Morning-side 
Park, close by the Bloomingdale Asylum for the Insane, which is lo- 
cated among pleasant gardens covering an area of 40 acres (fronting on 
115th St.). The Boulevard now leads by market-gardens and rural villas 
to the village of Manhatianville (125th -132d St.), which extends to the 
verge of Harlem Plains. At 129th St. and 10th Ave. is the Sheltering 
Arms, where 100 sick and needy children are cared for by the Episcopal 
Sisters of St. Mary. Here are the stately buildings of Manhattan 
College, with 694 students (in all departments) and 48 professors. It 
was founded by the Christian Brothers in 1853, and has 2 alUliated acade- 
mies in the city, — the JManhattan Academy (W. 32d St.) and the De La 
Salle Institute. Near the college is the great Gothic Convent of tlie 
Sacred Heart. Manhattanville is 8^ M. from tlie Battery ; and little 
more tlian 1 M. beyond is Carmansville (formerly owned by the Carman 
family), a collection of villas near which is the large summer-resort known 
as the * Riverside Hotel, fronting the Hudson. On 155th St. is Trinity 
Church Cemetery, where are buried Bishops Wainwright and Onderdonk, 
Philip Livingston (a signer of the Declaration of Independence), John 
Jacob Astor, and Audiibon, the naturalist. On 143d St. are the elegant 
buildings of the Colored Orphan Asylum; near 151st St. is the Soldiers' 
Orphans' Home; and at the foot of 154th St. is Audubon Park, a collec- 
tion of residences on the former grounds of the great naturalist. 

Audubon, the son of a French admiral, was horn at New Orleans in 1780, 
studied painting under David at Paris, and tnivelled nearly all over the U. S. for 
20 years, with rifle and pencil, gathering material for "The Birds of America," — 
a work in 4 volumes, with 488 life-size colored plates. It was finished in 1S44, 
and met with great success. It was called by Baron Cuviei', " the most gigantic 
and most magnificent monument that has ever been erected to nature." Audu- 
bon resided at this place, writing other great works, from 1839 until his death iu 
1851. 

Carmansville is on the narrow part of the island, on the S. E. slope of Mt. 
Washiugton and near the High Bridge on Harlem River (the Indian Muscoota). 
Over the latter is the site of the Morris House, the ancient mansion of Col. Morris, 
who married Mary Philipsc (the lady who declined Washington's attentions in 
1756), and afterwards became a royalist officer. The Morris House overlooks up- 
per N.Y., Long Island, and the Sound, the Harlem River, Astoria, and Flushing ; 
and was the head-quarters of Washington during the disastrous campaign of Sept., 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 27 

1776. It was afterwards occupied for many years by Madame Jumel, the widow 
of Aaron Burr. Below Carniansville is " The Grange," the home of Alexander 
Hamilton, situated on a far-viewing hill, near which is a group of 13 trees, planted 
by Hamilton, and named after the original States ; the South Carolina tree alone 
gi'ew up crooked. 

Near Carniansville is the Clendenning Valley, which is crossed by an 
aqueduct 1,950 ft. long and .50 ft. deep, with archways for 3 streets. N. 
of Carniansville is Fort Washington, the chief summit on Manhattan 
Island (238 ft. high), commanding a noble * view over the upper city, the 
Hudson, and the bold opposite heights of Fort Lee. It is now occupied 
by villas, and near the river is the * West End Hotel, a sumptuous summer 
hotel, with ferry to the Palisade-Mt. House. Upon these heights is ths 
large mansion with a gilded dome, which was built by James Gordon 
Bennett, the founder of the " N. Y. Herald." The Institution for the 
Deaf and Dumb occupies elegvant and spacious buildings in Italian archi- 
tecture, sumiounted by a domed tower, and is ue.ar the Kingsbridge Road 
(10 M. from the Battery). It is an educational establishment, with 30 
teachers and 400 students (visitors adnutted, 1.30-4 daily). Near 17Gth 
St. is the N. Y. Juvenile Asylum, with dark granite buildings in a park 
of 20 acres, accommodating over 500 children. It is for the reformation 
and i')rotection of children under 14 years of age, and has sheltered over 
13,000. The broad Kingsbridge Road runs N. to Kingsbridge (15 M. from 
the Battery ; built in 1693 by Frederick Philipse), which crosses into the 
lower parts of Westchester County, rccentl}' annexed to the city of N. Y. ; 
and roads run thence to Yonkers and Fordham. 7 bridges cross the 
connected tidal inlets of Spuyten Duyvil Creek and Harlem River, N. of 
Manhattan Island; of which 2 are for railroads, and 1 is an aqueduct. 
The * High Bridge is a structure worthy of the Roman Empire. It is 
1,450 ft. long and 114 ft. high, is supported on 14 piers, and is used to 
carry the Croton Aqueduct across the Harlem River. It is 11 M. from 
the Battery (near 173d St.), is built of granite, and cost $900,000. In 
this vicinity is the Century House, an inn which was built about the year 
1750. Above the bridge is a costly liigh-service reservoir and stand-pipe. 
The adjacent shores of the river are lofty and Avell wooded, and very 
picturesque. 

Soon after the battle of Long Island, the American army marched to Kings- 
bridge, leaving Putnam and 4,000 men in New York City. Some cannonading 
was done by American batteries at Catharine Ferry and 46th St. ; and on Sept. 
15, Sir Henry Clinton crossed the East River with 4,000 men, and landed at 34th 
St. under protection of the tire of 10 frigates. The New England brigades of 
Parsons and Fellows gave way in confusion, and Clinton advanced skirmishing to 
the Incleberg (between 5th and 6th Avenues and 35th and 38th Sts.). Putnam's 
4,000 men in the city were now cut otf ; but while the British generals dallied and 
rested at the Murray Hill mansion, Aaron Burr piloted Putnam up the W. side of 
the island to Bloomingdale. The hostile armies now confronted each other on 
Harlem Plains, and on the next day a sharp skirrnisli occurred at M'Gowan's Pass. 
Tile Americans threw up strong works on tlie heights, from which (Sept. 20-21) 
they saw the burning of New York. Unable to force these positions, Gen. Howe 



28 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

menaced the line of retreat and supplies by lan<ling large bodies of troops at New 
Rochelle, and Washington then retreated to Ftn-dhaui and Wliite Phiins. Fort ^ 
Washington was a strong work, Avitli 20-80 cannon, situated on the highest point 
of Manhattan Island (between ISlst and ISOtli St.). and garrisoned by 3,000 
men. Congress had ordered that Forts Washington and Lee, with the obstruc- 
tions in the Hudson between them, sliouhl be held at all hazards. But the fort 
was soon environed ; the fleet ascended the Hudson ; and on the morning of Nov. 
16, 1776, a cond)iiied attack was made. The Hessians and Waldeekers stormed 
Co(;khill Fort and I'ort Tiyon ; Lord Percy drove the Marylanders from Manhat- 
tanville ; the guards and grenadiers drove the Jerseymeu from Fort George ; and 
Stirling's 42d Higldamk:rs landed at the foot of l.'>2d St. and carried the redoubt 
al)ove. Tlie Hessians and Highlanders then route<l the Marylanders at Trinity 
Church Cemetery, and at noon the Americans had all been crowded into Fort 
Washington. That citadel was surrendered at I p. m., with 2,000 Continentals 
and 600 militia. The Americans lost 100 killed and wounded, and the British 
lost nearly 1,000. Washington and his generals witnessed this battle and sur- 
render from Fort Lee, across the Hudson. The name of the conquered fortress 
was changed to Fort Knyphausen, and strong lines of batteries were built by the 
victors along tlie Harlem River. To the N. e.xtended the neutral ground of West- 
chester County, nearly every village and valley of which was thereafter for five 
years alarmed by hot skirmishes between Delancey's Loyalists and Siracoe's 
Queen's Rangers on the one side, and the New England and N. Y. partisans ou 
the other. 

Fort Washington is most easily reached by laking the Elevated Railway from 
the lower part of the city and riding to the Hudson River R. R. station at 30th 
St., whence 10-12 trains daily depart for Manhattan ville, 152d St., Fort Wash- 
ington, Spuyten Duyvil, and Tarrytown. 

Fifth. Avenue begins at Washington Square and runs N. to Harlem 
River in 6 M. For the first 3 M. (to the Central Pai-k at 59th St.) it is 
lined Avith houses ; from 59th to 110th St. it is paved with wood, and has 
the Park on the 1., and on the r. occasional new houses on land of im- 
mense value ; and from the curve around the rocky heights of Mt. Morris 
to the Harlem River (llStli to 135th St.) it is lined with villas. Below 
Madison Square it is being invaded by stores and hotels ; but above that 
point it is chietly devoted to residences. On leaving Washington Square, 
the Cliurch of the Ascension (Epis.) is passed on 10th St., and at 11th St. 
is the 1st Pres. Church. At the 14th St. corner is Delmonico's (" the best, 
restaurant in the world "), and Union Square is seen to the r. At the 
15th St. corner is the house of the Manhattan Club, the head-quarters of 
the patricians of the Democratic party in N. Y. ; and to the E. on 15tli 
St., near 4th Ave., is the house of the Century Club, which includes the 
leading literati and artists of the city. To the 1. on 15th St. are the Italian 
Gothic buildings and church of the College, of St. Francis Xavier, a Jesuit 
institution with 27 instructors and nearly 500 students. Here is the head- 
quarters of the Order of Jesus in New York, Canada, and the Indian • 
Missions on tlie Lakes, At 18th St. is the ornate and beautiful build- 
ing of Chickering Hall, devoted to music ; and the cruciform Gothic 
Church of the Holy Conmiunion (Epis.) is at the corner of 20th St. and 
6th Ave. At 20th St. is the house of the wealthy Union Club ; and 
at 21st St. is the S. Dutch Reformed Church, beyond which the avenue 
passes the line of superb hotels ou the W. side of Madison Square and 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 29 

crosses Broadway ol)liq\iely. The roxite from Madison Square to the 
Central Parle by this avenue leads through the most aristocratic and 
splendid street in America, forming a scene of unexcelled brilliancy and 
beauty, especially on pleasant Sundays after morning service and late in 
the aftenioon. At the N. E. corner of Madison Stpiare is the Hip- 
podrome, an immense building accommodating 20,000 people ; and at 
the corner of E. 24th St. is Dr. Adams's Presbyterian church. lu this 
vicinity are the houses of the Eclectic Club, 5th Ave. and 26th St. ; tlie 
* Union League, Madison Ave. and 2Gth St. ; the N. Y. Yacht Club and 
the American Jockey Club, Madison Ave. and 27th St. ; the Travellers', 
222 5th Ave. ; and the Army and Navy Club, No. 8 2Sth St., near 5th 
Ave. Just off the avenue, on 25th St., is Trinity CJuipel, an elegant 
edifice, which is frescoed and lined with Caen stone, has riclily stained 
Avindows, and is famous for its clioral services. On the corner of 27th St. 
is the quaint and picturesque Stevens House. 28th St. leads olf to the 
E. to Bellevue Hospital and tlie Morgue, passhig St. Stej^hen's Church 
(near Lexington Ave.), an unattractive building, within which is the most 
elegant marble altar in America, and a famous altar-picture of the Cruci- 
fixion. The church seats nearly 4,000 people, and is celebrated for its 
music. At the corner of 5th Ave. and 29th St. is tlie white granite edifice 
of the rich Reformed Church ; and on 29th St., just E. of the avenue, is 
the quaint and irregular Church of the Transfiguration, which is much 
used for fasliionable weddings, and is familiarly known as "the little 
church around the corner," Behind tlie pulpit is a large copy of Raphael's 
painting of the Ascension. On the corner of 34th St. is the palace of the 
late A. T. Stewart, which cost $ 2,000,000, has a large picture-gallery, 
and is the finest residence in America. 

Stewart was born at Belfast, Ireland, in 1802, was partly educated for the min- 
istry, came to N. Y. in 1818, was an assistant teacher, and in 1823 opened a small 
triniminf,'s store. He worked 14-18 hours a day, and by energy and taet in- 
creased his business until he became the most successful merchant in the world, 
and was worth ;^ 30 - !;> 50,000,000. He died in April, 1870. 

34tli St. leads W. to the Hudson and the great Manhattan Market, pass- 
ing the Congregational Tabernacle (Dr. W. M. Taylor), and the turreted 
and battlemented buildings of the N. Y. Institution for the Blind. At 
7th Ave. and 35th St. is the massive and loopholed City Arsenal; at the 
corner of 9th Ave. and 31st St. are seen the spacious buildings of St. 
Michael's Schools ; and at 9th Ave. and 36tli St. is the Gothic building 
of the Northwestern Dispensary. E. of 5th Ave., 34th St. rims to Park 
Ave., on high ground wliich is maderlaid by the 4th Ave. R. R. tracks, 
passing tlirough a tunnel over which are well-arranged parks. The Uni- 
tarian Church of the Messiah fronts on Park Ave., and has a very elegant 
portal ; and is near the spacious Churcli of the Covenant (Pres.), which is 
built of gray-stone in Lombardo-Gothic architecture. In this vicinity 



30 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

(corner of 4tli Ave. and 32d St.) is a vast and elep;ant iron biiilding, 
erected by A. T. Stewart for a home for Avorking-wonien. On tlie corner 
of Sth Ave. and 35th St. is the costly and ultra-ritualistic Christ 
CkuTch (Epis.), with its renowned artistic music and elaborate frescos; 
while the plainer Brick Church (Pres.) is on the 37tli St. corner. From 
40tli to 42d Sts. (on Murray Hill) is the Distributing Reservoir of 
the Croton Aqueduct, massively built in Egyptian architecture, 44 ft. 
high and 420 ft. square, with an area of 4 acres and a capacity yf 
23,000,000 gallons. The broad promenade on toj? is open to the public, 
and commands pleasing views. Reservoir Square is a pretty park to the 
W. (the former site of the Crystal Palace) ; and the French Catholic Col- 
lege of St. Louis is farther down on 42d St., beyond the St. Cloud Hotel. 
Opposite the Reservoir (on 5th Ave.) is the feudal building of Rutgers 
Female College, founded in 1838, and in 18G7 made a college, with a 4 
years' course and an art school. It is to be removed to Morning-side 
Park. Two squares to the E., on 42d St., is the *" Grand Central Depot, 
the converging point of several railroads, and the linest building for the 
purpose in America. It is an enormous structure of brick, stone, and 
iron, covering 3 acres ; and its W. front, 692 ft. long, in Renaissance 
architecture, with several Louvre domes, is said to resemble the Tuileries. 
Just beyond (on 42d St. ) are the round towers and pointed windows of 
the Asylum for Cripples. The new and spacious Church of the Holy 
Trinity (S. H. Tyng, Jr.) is on the corner of Madison Ave. and 42d 
St., above which are the minaret-like towers and graceful round arches 
of St. Bartliolomeid's Church (Epis.), which has an interior of fan)ed 
beauty. On tlie next corner is the singular round building of corrugated 
iron which is occupied by Hepworth's Church of the Disciples. On the 
corner of 5th Ave. and 43d St. is the Jewislx * Temple Emanuel, the 
chief of the 27. spiagogues of the city, and the finest piece of Saracenic 
architecture in America. It has some featiires borrowed from the ancient 
Alhambra, and the interior is a dazzling picture of Oriental magnificence. 
At the S. E. corner of 43d St. and 5th Ave. is the former mansion of 
Wm. M. Tweed, the head of the Tammany Ring. On the 45th St, cor- 
ner is Dr. Chapin's Universalist Church of tlie Divine Patemitj^, nearly 
opposite the curious front of the Episcopal Church of the Heavenly Rest. 
At 46th St. is the luxurious Windsor Hotel ; and at 48th St, is the new 
and costly Collegiate Dutch Reformed Church. 

49th St. leads off to the E. to the buildings of Columbia College, a ven- 
erable and wealthy institution, which was chartered (as King's College) by George 
II, of England in 1754. It is the oldest college in the State, and in 1849 was 
moved from its valuable estate in the lower part of the city to the present build- 
ings (which were formerly occupied by the State Institution for Deaf-Mutes), 
The reports of 1870 showed — in the college jiroper, 11 professors and 147 stu- 
dents ; in the School of Law (opposite the Astor Lilu-ary), 4 jn-ofessors and 204 
students ; in the School of Medicine (College of Physicians and Surgeons, 23d 



NKW YORK CITY. Route 1, 31 

St. and 4th Ave.). 10 professors and 309 students ; and in the School of Mines 
(a widely renov/ned iicieiitiiic institution), 8 professors and 93 students. 

The AVoman's Hospital of the State of N. Y. is a handsome building at 4th 
Ave. and 50th St., and is the only hospital in America v/hich is devoted to that 
specialty. The Child's Hospital is at Lexington Ave. and 50th St., and has build- 
ings for a Children's Hospital, Foundling Asylum, Lying-in AsyUun, and Nursery. 
A brilliant Charitv Ball is given annually in behalf of this institution. Near the 
corner of 2d Atc^uuI 50th St. is the Greek Church, a building in Saracenic archi- 
tecture, wherein the impressive Russo-Greek ritual is solenuiized. At the comer 
of Lexington Ave. and 47th St. is St. Alban's, the most advanced Ritualistic church 
in America. 

At the corner of 5tli Avenue and 50th St. is the * Cathedral of St. 
Patrick (Cath.), Avhich is to be the finest church in America. It was 
commenced in 1858, and is now nearly half done. The building occupies 
the highest point on the avenue, and will be a landmark for leagues. It 
is firmly founded on solid ledges of rock, and is built of white marble, in 
the decorated Gothic style of the 13th century (somewhat resembling the 
Cathedral of Cologne). It is .3.32 ft. long and 96 ft. wide (140 ft. at the 
transepts) ; and the front is to be guarded by two marble spires, each 328 
feet in height, adorned with statuary, pinnacles, and rich carvmgs, and 
flanking a central gable 156 ft. high. The interior columns of marble 
support a high clere-story ; and the lofty and elegant front portal (now 
complete) is worthy of close inspection. N, of the cathedral is the Cath- 
olic Orphan Asylum. The spacious Church of St. Thomas (Epis. ) is just 
above (on the 1.), and is near St. Luke's Hospital, a refuge for the sick 
without regard to sect or nation (no contagious or chronic diseases al- 
lowed ; patients who are able pay ^ 7 a week). It is under the care of 
the Episcopal Sisters of the Holy Communion, whose members pass a 
disciplinary novitiate, and then enter the order for 3 years' service, after 
which they are free, if they so desire. At 55th St. is the new Presby- 
terian Church (Dr. Hall's), the largest of that sect in the world. The 
ground cost $350,000, and the building has cost $500,000. At 59th St. 
is the Scholars' Gate to the Central Park. Near the S. E. corner of the 
Park, the Central Park Hotel is to be erected. W., on 59th St. (which 
skirts the Park), is the lofty new building of Charlier's French Institute, 
near the Central Park gardens (orchestral music). On 59th St., near the 
Hudson River, is the vast and ornate Roosevelt Ilosjntal (founded by the 
late James H. Roosevelt) ; and \ M. S. (corner 9th Ave. and 49th St.) is 
the Convent of the Order of Paulists. 
^ Passing N. on 5th Ave. from 59th St., the Central Park is on the 1. for 
2J M. The avenue is but partially built up, on accoimt of the great price 
of the land. To the r., on Lexington Ave. (at 55th and 63d Sts.), are 
2 new and costly synagogues, with powerful organs. The * Park Museum 
is passed at 64th St. ; and at TOtli St. (near the Children's Gate) is the 
* Lenox Library, a new and stately marble building, costing $ 900,000, 
and designed for the reception of a museum, art-gallery, library, and 



32 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

lecture-hall. Close by is the Lenox Bosintal (Presbyterian), a quaint and 
ornate brick and stone structure, witli tall and slender spires. % 500,000 
was given to this institution by James Lenox, the munificent founder of 
the library. A few rods distant, on the old Hamilton Square (and built 
at a cost of .$390,000), is the spacious and imposing new structure of the 
Normal College, in the secular Gotliic style, with a lofty and massive 
Victoria tower. The Foundling Hospital is still farther E. ; and in plain 
sight is tlie Mount Sinai Hosjntal (Jewish), a cluster of buildings in 
Elizabethan architecture, erected at a cost of ^ 340,000. The vast Ger- 
man park and beer-garden called Jones's Wood is still farther E., at tlie 
river-side, and looks across on Blackwell's Island. The Colored Home is 
at the foot of 64th St, near the East River ; and the Baptist Old Ladies' 
Home is on the corner of 6Sth St. and 4th Ave. At 73d St. and Madison 
Ave. is the Presbyterian Home for Aged Women ; at 77th St. and 3d 
Ave. is the Hebrew Orphan Asylum ; and at 79th St. and 4th Ave. is the 
German Hospital. Near 80th St., the Belvedere Tower is seen to the 1., 
in the Park ; and beyond this are the embankments of the reservoir. At 
81st St. and Madison Ave. is the Convent of St. Catharine, occupied by 
the Sisters of Mercy, and surrounded by auxiliary charitable institutions. 
At 86th St. and Madison Ave. is the Shepherd's Fold, for poor children ; 
and at 5th Ave. and 89th St. is the Magdalen Benevolent Institution. At 
88th St. and Madison Ave. is St. Luke's Home for Indigent Christian 
Females, a fine Gothic building, adjoining the new memorial Church of 
the Beloved Disciple. Farther E., on 89th St., is the Convent of Notre 
Dame, near St. Joseph's Orphan Asylum and the House of the Good 
Shepherd, with about 500 women who have been reclaimed from the evil 
life, and are cared for by 80 sisters. Near 105th St., Mount St. Vincent 
and the Great Hill are seen, on the 1. of 5th Ave. ; and the avenue soon 
leaves the Park, and enters an undulating and picturesque region. At 
118th St. it reaches Mount Morns, the park of Harlem, and, curving 
around its rugged base, passes on to Harlem, a large and populous vil- 
lage on the Harlem River, with several fine churches and a lucrative 
manufacturing industry. An iron bridge crosses the Harlem River at this 
point, near which a large flotilla of pleasure-boats is kept for hire, and 
the steamboats for Peck Slip and Pligh Bridge are moored. Horse-cars 
nni from Harlem to Maidiattanville. From the N. side of the bridge 
horse-cars run to Morrisania, Ti-emont, and Fordham (45 min. ; 10c. ), 
traversing a dull and uninteresting wooden suburb, inhabited chiefly by 
Germans. 




CENTRAL Ey^K.j 



1. Old Arsenal an J Museum 

2. M^hAick 

7). S/alurs</Sfrii &Sh(Jysj'fttrf 

4. Cosine . 

5. .Music Pari /ivn . 

6. Terrucr ■ 

7. Bcw Bridge. 

8. Jifilcnny " 
0. n. Knell. 

10. T/»r tfrf«/ ^f// 
It flldTotU. 

12. 77,.F.W,. 
LV 7///' (as fade 
14. ,VrA,/rtw ^W*-. 
ir). /^r?w?*' ■' 
K). Arlisims' 
M.Jifgrehrvil.'-' ■■ 
la. IV^/m^rt.v" •• . 
,10. Munhr.^' 

20. ^Mnnner.f - 

21. (udffifAHSainh. 
TL Boys' Gale. 

25. Cliildrenft •• . 

24. Miners' •' 

25. .^Iran^ers ■' 

26. l*^«!w«'«i. ■• . 

27. /^Vrfc ■ " . 

28. Farmers' " 

29. H^rfm/'rs' ■ 
50. Lemxhihrary . 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 33 



* * Central Park. 



Park carriages nm from the 5th and 8th Avenue lower gates to the principal 
points of interest, carrying 10-12 persons (fare, 25c.). Coaches can be hired for 
$ 2 an hour, and the circuit may be made in 2 hours. After 3 p. m. in winter, and 
4 p. M. in summer, are the favorite hours for citizens to visit the Park. On sum- 
mer afternoons (especially Sundays) the promenades and driveways are thron^.ed 
with i:)eople ; and during winter there are brilliant skating-carnivals on the frozen 
lakes (skates may be hired at the adjacent cottages). The Park is reached by 
either of several horse-car lines from the Astor House and the lower part of tlie 
city. 

Near the Scholar's Gate (5th Ave. and 59tli St, ) is a colossal bronze 
bust of Humboldt, the gift of the German citizens of N. Y. On the 1. is , 
the irregular sheet of water called tlie Pond, lying between rugged hills, 
and covering 5 acres. It is a favorite skatiug-gTound in winter, and is 
much visited by the Scottish admirei's of the curling-game. To the W. 
is the Play Ground, wliicli extends nearly to the bronze statue of Com- 
merce, by the Merchants' Gate (8th Ave.). N. of the Pond is the Dairy 
(liglit refresliments), the Carrousel (children's amusements), and the base- 
ball ground. Near 5th Ave. is the * American Museum of Natural 
History, occupying the massive castellated building formerly used as the 
State Arsenal. 

Tiie Zoological Garden is arranged outside the Museum, and includes lions, 
tigers, leopards, camels, giraffes, bulfalo, bears, wolves, hyenas, and many other 
rare animals. Those from the tropical regions are kept in a large warm hall dur- 
ing the winter season ; but the hardier animals of the North weather the cold 
months in their cages in the open air. In front of the building are large aviaries 
lilled with pigeons and bald eagles ; also families of monkeys and tropical birds. 
The Museum has been gathered on the nucleus of tlie famous collection of the 
Archduke Maximilian, and includes 12,000 prepared birds, 3,000 reptiles and 
fislies, and 1,000 mammals. The lirst floor has several cases filled with S. Ameri- 
can birds ; also statues of Columbus and Wasliington ; and the celel)rated group 
of an Arab courier and camel attacked by lions. On the second floor are the birds 
of Africa, 6 cases of crania and skeletons, fish, reptiles, fossils, minerals, corals, 
shells, buttei-flies, moths, beetles, ancient stone implements, insects and their 
architecture, lichens, and polished building-stones. On the third floor are large 
and brilliant collections of birds, deer, monkeys, rodents, and marsui)ial and car- 
nivorous animals. On tlie upper floor are the costly and ingenious instruments 
of the Meteorological Observatorj'. Tlie Museum is open to the jiublic except on 
Mondays and Tuesdays, when permits to enter must be obtained at the office of 
the Department of Public Parks, No. 36 Union Square. 

The paths from the gates on 59th St. lead to the Marble Arch, a costly 
piece of masonry over which passes the driveway. TJie landscapes in 
the lower part of the gi*ounds are of cultured beauty ; and the rambles 
and drives conduct by graceful curves and passing picturesque knolls and 
groves, bridges and arbors, to * The Mall, the chief promenade of the 
Park. It is 1,212 ft. long and 208 ft. wide, and is bordered by double 
lines of large American elms. At the entrance to this noble esplanade 
2* C 



34 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

are fine bronze * statues of William Shakespeare and Sir Walter Scott ; 
and other groups and statues are seen at various pomts. At the Music 
Pavilion, near the upper end, baud concerts are given on pleasant Satur- 
day afternoons in summer, and at such times the vicinity is filled with a 
gay and varied crowd. To the N. E. and above the Pavilion is a long 
trellis-work overlooking the Terrace and Lake, and draped with flowering 
vines. To the E. of the Vine-covered Walk (beyond the carriage-con- 
course) is the Casino, a restaurant of good repute ; and towards 5th Ave. 
is a group of statuary in sandstone, called " Auld Lang Syne." Near the 
latter is a bronze statue of Prof. S. F. B. Morse, which was erected by 
the Telegraph Operators' Association. W. of the Mall is the broad lawn 
called the Green (containing 15 acres), above which is a pavilion for the 
sale of mineral waters. Tlie Mall is terminated by * The Terrace, a 
sumptuous pile of masonry (of Albert freestone), with frescoed and carved 
arcades and corridors, broad promenades, 5bstly and elaborate screen-work 
in stone, and high pedestals, which are to be graced with symbolic statu- 
ary. Broad stone stairways lead thence to the Lower Terrace, a highly 
ornamented esplanade by the side of the Central Lake. In its centre is 
the most costly * fountain on the continent, with bronzes, great mono- 
lithic basins, and a colossal statue of the Angel of Bethesda. 

Central Lake covers 20 acres, and is divided into two parts (that to the 
W. being the larger), which are joined by a narrow strait, over which is 
thrown the graceful Bow Bridge (for pedestrians only ; often called the 
Flower Bridge, from the abimdance of its floral decorations). 

The Lake occupies the site of a swamp, and is filled with Crotoii water (7 ft. 
deep in summer ; 4 ft. m winter). Omnibus boats carry visitors about it for 10c. 
each ; and private boats may be hired at atariirtixed by the Commissioners. The 
boats may be left at any of tlie 6 landings on the shores. The scene here on 
moonlight summer niglits, when the boats cany colored lights, is worthy of 
Venice ; and throngs of merry skaters occxipy the ice during the winter day.-!, 
and x>rolong their sports by the liglit of numerous gas-jets with strong reflectors. 
More pedestrians visit the Park iu winter than in sunnuer, attracted by the 
skating ; and large temporuiy refreshment saloons are erected near the Lake for 
their benefit. Tiie swans are a notable feature here, and were presented by the 
city of naml)urg and the Worshipful Companies of Vintneis and Dyers of Lou- 
don. They thrive and increase, and endure the cold of the severest winters. 

The W. arm of the Lake is crossed by the massive Balcony Bridge ; 
and on the slopes N. of the Lake is the Ramble, a tract of 36 acres of 
copse and lawn, rock-work, and retired nooks, threaded by a labyrinth of 
romantic foot-paths. The statue of Schiller is near the lake-shore ; on 
the W. are the Grotto and the Stone Arch ; and on the E. are the Ever- 
green Walk and the Dovecot. S, of the latter (near 5th Ave.) is the Con- 
servatory Lake, near the large new conservatory and flower-garden. N. 
of the Ramble is the * Belvedere, a loftily situated cluster of quaint 
structures in Norman architecture, built of massive masonry, and resem- 
bling some ancient Rhenish ca.stle. The view from the tower is broad 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 35 

and pleasing, including a large portion of the Park, the E. and W. suburbs 
of New York, and the great arches of the High Bridge over and far be- 
yond the Reservoirs. Tlie Old Reservoir is just above the Belvedere, and 
covers 31 acres. It is 105 ft. above the tide, contains 150,000,000 gallons 
of Croton water, and is surrounded by ponderous walls of masonry. 
Above this artificial lake, and separated from it by the transverse road 
(or sub- way) of S6th St., is the New Reservoir, a massive granite struc- 
ture covering 106 acres, and holding 1,000,000,000 gallons. The gate- 
houses are fine stone buildings in which is kept the powerful machinery 
of the water- works. Above the New Reservoir is the Uj^j^cr Park, which 
is less visited and has less artificial embellishment than the Lower Park, 
but is richer in marked natural beauties. Passing the broad plains called 
the East and West Meadows, on the E. is seen Mount St. Vincent, on 
which are the buildings formerly occupied by the Mother House and Con- 
vent of the Sisters of Chanty. A large restaurant is now located here ; 
and the chapel contains 87 casts from the statuary of Crawford (presented 
by his widow). To the E. is the Arboretum ; and to the W. is Harlem 
Lake (covering 16 acres), with its bold S. shore lined with the remains of 
old fortifications. A pretty falling stream, spanned by 5 bridges and 
abounding in cascades, enters Harlem Lake after running N. E. down the 
ravine called M'Ooioan's Pass. Over the Pass is the Great Hill, on whose 
summit is a carriage-concourse, whence a broad view is gained; and the 
liliijf is a bold ridge which terminates the Park on the N., and bears the 
remains of old forts and field-works. 



The great buildings for the Museum of Arts and the Museum of 
Natural History are far advanced towards completion. They are of 
brick, with stone trimmings, and have no architectural attractions. 
j Tliey are to cost over $ 6,000,000. When completed, each of them is to 
i have the form of the letter H, of which only the cross-bar is now under 
I construction. The Natural-History building is N. W. of the Lake, on 
Manhattan Square, near Stii Ave., and is to be opened in 1876, with tlie 
collections now in the Old Arsenal, great archffiological and ethnological 
museums, and other invaluable treasures of science and anticpiity. The 
Art building is on the 5th -Ave. side, near 82d St., and has been severely 
criticised. It will be opened late in 1877, and will perhaps receive some 
of the collections now in the Metropolitan Museum. The Lenox Library 
is near this building. In the vicinity of and under the advantages of 
these immense museums and libraries it is expected that one of the fore- 
most universities of the world will be established. 

Among the ornaments which have moie recently been added to the 
Park, the foremost is the colossal * statue of Daniel Webster, which was 
made in Italy (at a cost of $05,000), and rests on a block of Quincy 



35 a Route 1. NEW YOUK CITY. 

granite weighing 30 tons. It occupies a prominent position, where the 
drive-way on the W. side passes the S. bay of the Lake, not far from the 
Terrace. On a jutting rock between this point and the Terrace is one of 
the most graceful and spirited works of art in the Park, the * Falconer, 
a bronze statue 7 ft. high (cast in Florence) representing a young man 
clad in doublet and hose, with a falcon poised for flight on his out- 
stretched left hand. Near the drive-way between this point and the 8th- 
Ave. Gate is a colossal bronze statue of a soldier, erected in memory of 
tlie men of the 7th N. Y. Regiment who died in the secession war. The 
l)edestal is adorned with bronze troi»hies. Near the S. end of the Mall is 
a large bronze group by J. Q. A. Ward, representing an Indian hunter 
and his dog. Farther to the N. is a group of large birds of prey, in 
bronze ; beyond which, and near the terrace, is a bronze group (by 
Augnste Caine) representing a tigress giving food to her cubs. Near the 
Mall are to be erected statues of Robert Burns (opposite Scott), Daniel 
O'Connell, and others. The French Government has given to the city of 
New York a noble bronze statue of Lafayette (by Bartholdi ; costing 
S 30,000), representing him as standing upon the bulwark of the ship, 
on the way to America. It is now in New York, and will soon be erected 
in the Park. There are also colossal busts of Goethe and William Cullen 
Bryant now in the city, destined for the Park. Other statues for which 
subscriptions are being made are those of Thomas Moore, Fitz-Greene 
Halleck, Cervantes, and Irvhig, — the latter of whicli will be accom- 
panied by statues of Rip Van Winkle and Diedrich Knickerbocker. 

The Belvedere tower commands a view to the S. down the Mall, over 
whose 1. side is the great white mass of the Cathedral, broken by the towers 
of St. Tliomas's Episcopal and the Fifth-Ave, Pres. churches. To the r. 
are the distant and manifold towers, si)ires, and domes of New York, with 
the Louvre dome of the Post-OiRce, the Tribune tower, and Trinity spire. 
Farther to the r. are the pinnacles of the Roosevelt Hospital, with the 
Hudson on the r., over wliich are the Hoboken heights, crowned by the 
three-domed church of the Passionist convent. The long Orange Moun- 
tain is far beyond. Close at hand on the W. is the Museum of Natural 
History, a tive-story brick building over and on each side of which are 
the slianties towards the Boulevard. The long and massive line of the 
Palisades runs to the N., and suddenly breaks down, precipitously, be- 
yond the light-colored walls of the Palisades Mountain House. On the r. 
of the Hudson valley are the Fort- Washington Heights, with the dark 
convent of the Sacred Heart ; and to the r. of the lofty stand-pipe are 
the arches of the High Bridge. The hilly districts of the old Westchester 
towns appear over tlie reservoirs, with Harlem on the r., flanked by the 
broad waters of the Sound. To the r. of the Gothic-windowed Art build- 
ing are the hills and villages of Long Island, and then the eye rests on the 



NEW YOKK CITY. Route 1. 35 6 

nearer cluster of the Lenox Hospital, Normal College, and Mt. Sinai Hos- 
pital, with the white Lenox Library on their r. Just to the r. of the 
libiary are the many spires and domes of Brooklyn. 

One of the most interesting objects now seen from Mt. St. Vincent is 
the long and massive railroad viaduct, on the E, Among tlic casts in 
the beautiful little chapel are those of the Washington Monument at 
l;irhmond, Jefferson, Lincoln, Otis, Orpheus, Hebe, Aurora, Apollo, 
Diana, Cupid, Flora, Herodias, David, Psyche, Adam and Eve, Mercury, 
the Angel, and numerous bas-reliefs and Indian statues. Below the 
chapel are several Esquimaux boats, cannon recovered from H. B. M. 
frigate Hussar, shot fired into and from Charleston, and other curiosities. 

In 1851 a movement was made to secure a park for tlie citizens of N. Y., and 
Downing, the eminent landscape-gardener, advocated it with fluent jien. In 180G 
the ]>resent site of tlic Park was a dreary and desolate re^^ion of swamps and 
ledges, disfigured with heaps of cinders, potsherds, and rubbish, denuded of all 
vegetation except tangled thickets, and dotted with the squalid shanties of rude 
and degraded squatters. In that year the work began which has given the city 
the most beautiful and one of the largest of the parks of the world. It is a i>ar- 
allelogram, 2^ M. long and ^ M. wide ; and is nearly 5 M. N. of the Battery, and 
1 M. from the rivers on either side. It includes 8G2 acres, of which 185 are cov- 
ered with water (45 acres of lakes and 142 of reservoirs). There are 9- 10 M. of 
carriage-roads, G M. of bridle-paths, and 25 M. of walks ; while communication 
across the island is confined to 4 sunken roads which pass from E. to W. through 
the Park and under its drive-ways. In 1870 the boats on the Lake were used by 
ll.'],0S2 visitors ; and 112,245 patronized the Park carriages. 200,000 trees and 
shrubs have been ]'lanted here, many of which were transplanted when quite 
large. In 1873 the Park was visited by 10,160,15'.> people, of whom 4,808,020 were 
on foot, 56,955 on horseback, and the rest were in 1,711,528 carriages. The cost 
of the Park, up to Jan. 1, 1874, was §13,902,515. 

Through M'Gowan's Pass led the " Old Boston Road," the first road out of N. 
Y. on the E. ; and by this route the Huguenots of New Rochelle came f>n Sunday 
to the French Church in the city. In the disastrous Sei)t(^mber of 1776, this vi- 
cinity was the shelter and rallying ])oint of the demoralized American army. Af- 
ter the British army had landed at 2Sd St. (East River), the American rearguard, 
under Putnam, retreated hastily from the lower ])art of the island, and were en- 
gaged in the present Upper Park by the enemy's light infantry. The next day 
Gen. Leslie advanced tiuough M'Gowan's Pass, drove back the American pickets, 
and deployed on Ilarlem Plains. The C(mtineJit;il troops soon attacked Leslie's 
men, but Col. Knowlton fell wliile leading the Conn. Rangers, and M.aj. Leitch 
was pierced by 3 bullets while charging with the Vii^inians'. The Maryland line 
then came to the rescue, and the British were driven back across the Plains with 
severe losses. But they held and fortified M'Gowan's Pass, from which they were 
not dislodged. Most of the fortifications now found in the Upper Park were 
erected in the War of 1812. 

The East Rivex. 

The best way to see the East River villages and islands, Harlem, and the High 
Bridge, is to take the steamboat from Peck Slip (at the foot of Beekman St., and 
a short distance above Fulton Ferry). These boats make 16 trips daily (fare, lOc), 
stopping at lith and r20th Sts., and connect with steamers for High Bridge. 

Passing out into the stream between the crowded shores of Brookljm 
and New York, forests of masts are seen on either side ; the tall piers of 
the East River Bridge, the many vessels in the river, and the retrospect 
of Governor's Island and the harbor, attract the attention. At the foot 



36 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. 

of Pike St. (1. ) is the Sectional Dry-Dock, beyond which are mimemus 
large ship-yards and dry-docks. On the r. is seen the U. S. Navy Yard, 
with its ship-houses, naval dry- dock, batteries, and vessels of the fleet ; 
above which is that portion of Bi'ooklyn formerly known as Williams- 
burg. At the foot of 12th St, (1.) are the immense Novelty Iron Works, 
near the works of the Manhattan Gas Company. At the foot of 26th St. 
is Bellevue Hospital, a free public institution with 1,200 beds, attended 
by the most eminent doctors, and famed for its clinical instruction. Neaft 
the hospital is the Morgue, a gi-ay-stone building, where the unidentified 
human corpses which are found in the streets and rivers of the city are 
exposed to public view for 3 days. Nearly opposite Bellevue, Newtown 
Creek is seen indenting the E. shore ; above which is Hunter's Point (L. 
I. City), where the Long Island railroad system converges. The boat 
now approaclies * BlackweWs Island, tlie Indian Minnahanock, which 
was owned for many years by the Blackwell family, and was bought by 
the city in 1828. It occupies 120 acres, and is surrounded by a sea-wall. 
The buildings are all of granite, quarried liere by the convicts, and prob- 
ably there is nowhere else in the world a cluster of charitable and correc- 
tional institutions which combine so much of strength, comfort, and 
practical power for restraint. 

The Small-Pox Hospital is a Gothic building at the S. end. It was built in 1854, 
and in 1870 received 977 patients, of whom 100 died. The Fever Hospitals are 
to the W., and the Epileptic and Paralytic Hospitals are on the E. To the N. is 
the Charity Hospital, an inmiense granite building (354 by 122 ft.), with 29 wards 
and 1,200 beds. The E. wing is for men ; the W. wing for women. 7,000 patients 
are treated here yearly, of whom 450 die. The wards are models of neatness, and 
the medical attendance is skilful. Next to the Hospital is the Penitentiary, 
a vast, gloomy, and massive building, with a battlemented roof and centre and 
flanking towers. It is altogether built of granite and iron. It has 756 cells, but 
is always crowded, and a new penitentiary is to be built on Hart's Island, 12 M. 
distant on L. I. Sound. The male convicts are dressed in striped garments, and 
work on the new buildings on Ward's, Randall's, and Hart's Islands, having ex- 
hausted the quarries on JBlackwell's and covered it with massive buildings. Over 
1,500 prisoners are received here yearly, most of whom are under 25 years of age, 
— I are women, and over h are foreigners. N. of the Penitentiary are 2 large 
Almshouses (one for each sex), C50 ft. apart, with high verandas and neat grounds. 
These buildings are for the aged and infirm ]^oor, of whom 1,100 - 1,200 can be ac- 
commodated. Near by are the Hospitals for Incurables. To the W. is the si)a- 
cious Workhouse (of local hewn granite, 680 ft. long), the receptacle for the vagrant 
and dissipated classes of the great city. The terms of commitment are short 
(averaging 10 days) ; drunkenness is the chief cause of detention ; and there are 
15 -20,000 persons sent here yearly, of whom comparatively few are Americans. 
The octagonal building with long wings (one for each sex) is the City Lunatic 
Asylum, and on the E. is a separate building for the more noisy patients. The 
Blackwell's Island institutions can only be visited by persons bearing a pass from 
the Commissioners (office, E. 11th St. and .3d. Ave). The island is surrounded by 
deep ship-channels, patrolled by guard-boats ; and the shoi-es are watched by 
sentries. 

W. of Blackwell's Island, the space between 60th and 80th Sts. is oc- 
cupied by Jones's Wood, formerly a favorite German resort and beer- 
garden. The Woods are now fast giving way before the advance of 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 37 

the city streets, E. of the island are the villas of Ravenswood, and as 
tlie boat leaves the island behind, Astoria is seen on the r., a place of 
villas, flower-gardens, and picturesque shores. The boat now passes 
along the W. verge of Hell Gats, a dangerous strait at the W. entrance 
of L. I. Sound, obstructed by sunken rocks and strong currents, A 
greater amount of commercial property passes through this thoroughfare 
every year than through the Narrows; of late years extensive improve- 
ments have been (and are being) made by U, S. Engineers and WeKIi 
miners, who have mined the ledges in every direction. Ward's Island 
is now seen on the r., covering 200 acres. It was called by the Indians 
Tenkenas, and was bought by Van Twiller in 1637. The elegant and im- 
posing Inebriate Asyluvi accommodates 400 patients, for whose benelit 
religious and moral instruction is added to physical supervision. About 
200 soldiers, infirm and honorably discharged, are taken care of in the 
Soldiers' Retreat, in this building. On the E, end of the island is the 
new Lunatic Asylum ; and 106 acres are occupied by the farms and spa- 
cious buildings of the Emigrant Refurje and Hos]iital. The city has re- 
cently built a large Catholic church on the island. 

The steamer passes' between Ward's Island and Manhattan, and soon 
comes in sight of Randall's Island, sepai-ated from Ward's by Little 
Hell Gate. On its S, shore is the House of Refuge, a great line of build- 
ings, with 4 domes, in Italian architecture, and with 1,000 ft, of frontage. 
It generally has 700 boys and 150 girls, who are sent here by their parents 
or by the courts, and are subjected to necessary restraints, and required 
to labor 6-8 hours daily, and to attend school 4-5 hours. As soon as 
they appear to be really reformed, they are indentured out to trades or to 
fanners. 

On Randall's Island are also the Nurseries, 6 large buildings where are kept 
2,400 children, found abandoned in the streets or siuTendered by i^oor jiarents ; 
also the Infant Hospital, for 3-400 young children, and the Idiot Asylum, ac- 
commodating 150 ]iatients. Tlie list of city correctional institutions is coni- 
I)loted by the Catholic Protectory, on the adjacent mainland, in the old 
town of W. Farms. The innnense buildings of this society (for protecting and 
uplifting destitute or vicious Roman Catholic children) are called the Houses of 
the Holy Angels. The boys (7-800 in number) are cared for by the Christian 
Brothers ; and the girls occupy an imj^osing edifice in ultra-Gothic architecture, 
with many spires and pinnacles, and are supervised by the Sisters of Charity. 
12 M. to the E., on Hart's Island, are the Industrial School (for vicious boys) and 
the City Cemetery. 

Beyond Randall's Island, the steamboat follows the Harlem River to the 
N., between the suburbs of Harlem and Morrisania, and stops near Har- 
lem Bridge (wlience a line of horse-cars runs N. to Tremont and Ford- 
ham in 5 M. ), Smaller steamers run from Harlem to Macomb's Dam, the 
High Bridge (see page 27), and Spuyten Duyvil, The trip to or from 
Harlem may also be made by the 3d Avenue horse-cars, from the Astor 
House. 



3S Route 2. BROOKLYN. 

Jersey City (* Taylor's Hotel, European plan, at the ferry ; horse-cars 
to Hoboken, Coramunipaw, and Bergen Heights ; railroads to Newark 
and Elizabeth, Philadelphia and Easton, and to the S. and W. generally ; 
steamships to Queenstown and Liverpool) is a place of but little interest 
to the tourist. It is in the State of New Jersey, opposite N. Y. City, 
with which it is connected by several ferries over the Hudson River. 
To the N. is Hoboken, the terminal point of 3 lines of German steam- 
ships, and of railroads to the S. and W. The Stevens Institute of l^ech; 
nology is a school of mechanical engineering, fomided by Edwin A. 
Stevens in 1867, and endov/ed with $050,000. It has a fine building, and 
is provided with apparatus and cabinets which are unexcelled in the 
country. 

In 1779 the present site of Jtrsey City was a sandy peninsula called Paulus 
Hook, on whicli (near the present corner of Grand and Greene Sts.) were 2 strong 
forts, garrisoned by the 57th British regiment. Aug. 19, 1779, Maj. Henry Lee, 
with 300 picked men, surprised the works at dawn, and captured 159 men, hut 
drew off before the guns of the larger fort, and retired with hut slight loss. For 
this spirited achievement, Lee was honored by Congress with a gold medal. 

y. W. of Jersey City is Commuiupaw, an antiquated Dutch village, Avhich was 
granted to Michael Panw, director of the Dutch W. I. Company, in 1G30. He be- 
came patroon of a great domain, which he named P.ivonia, or Communipauw, — 
the Comnume of Pauw, — the Latin pavo and the Dutch pauw both meaning pea- 
cock. By orders of Gov. Kieft, the Dutch troops fell upon the Indian village of 
Arisshek, on this site, in 1643, and cruelly massacred 80 persons. Soon afterwanl 
the Indians attacked Communipaw, and exterminated its inhabitants (excepting 
one family) ; and the next settlers surrounded it with walls. 



2. Brooklyn. 



Hotels. — * Pierrepont House, corner of Montague and Hicks Sts., $4 a day ; 
Mansion House, Henry St.; Clinton House, Fulton St., near Clinton; Brooklyn 
House, at Hamilton Ferry. 

Restaurants. — Snedeker's, 187 Montague St., near Court ; Dieter's, 305-313 
"VVashin.uton St., near the Post-Office ; the Bank, near the City Hall. 

Theatres. — ^* Academy of Music, Montague St., near Court, for operas and 
concerts; the Brooklyn, Wasliington St., near Fulton; the New Park, Fulton 
St. Varieties at Hooley's Opera House, Court St. 

Reading-Kooms. — Mercantile Library, Montague St., near the City Hall ; 
y. .M. C. A., Fulton Ave. Post-Office, on Washington St., near Fulton. 

H or se- Cars. — From Fultoii Ferry (every 6 minutes), by the Wall St., South, 
and Atlantic Ferries, and along Atlantic Ave., to E. New York (connecting there 
with steam-cars to Cauarsie, Jamaica, and Rockaway) ; from Fulton Ferry, by 
Furman St., Atlantic, Flatbush, and 5th Aves., to Greenwood Cemetery (con- 
necting there with steam-cars for New Utrecht, Bath, and Coney Island) ; from 
Fulton Ferry, on Water, Washington, and Fulton Sts. and De Kalb Ave. , to New- 
town (with a branch on Water, Bridge, Willoughby, De Kalb, and Broadway) ; 
from Fulton Ferry, by Fulton St. and Flatbush Ave., to Prospect Park and Flat- 
bush ; from Fulton Ferry, on Fulton and Sands Sts. and Flushing Ave., Broad- 
way, Graham, and Van Coit Aves. ; from Fulton Ferry, on Fulton St. and Ave., to E. 
New York ; from Fulton Ferry, on Furman St., by the lower ferries, to Hamilton 
Ferry ; from Fulton Ferry, on Fulton St. and Greene, Franklin, and Gates Aves., 
to Broadway ; from Fulton Ferry to Greenpoint, by Clason Ave. or by Washing- 
ton Ave. ; from Fulton Ferry to Greenwood, by Fulton and Court Sts. and Ham- 
ilton Ave. ; from Fulton Ferry to Broadway, by Fulton St. and Myrtle Ave. ; from 
Fulton Ferry to Greenwood, by Fulton St., Flatbush and 3d A^'es. ; from Fulton 



jH Hillsaale ^^ 

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-Kinderkamak VfA 

Godwin V."\, \^ -.^ _,„, ^ 

i-Ridgewooa 
'TVnnklerXX.d , EiverE, 




KEW YORK 

AND 

VICINITY. 



') 1 '^ a 4 5 



BROOKLYN. Route 2. 30 

Ferry, by Water, Main, Prospect, Jaj', Smith, and 9th Sts., to City Line (con- 
necting ibr Coney Island) ; from Fulton Ferry, by Water, Bridge, Concord, and 
Navy Sts., Park, Vanderbilt, and 9th Aves., to Greenwood ; from Hamilton Ferry 
to Erie Basin ; to Prospect Park, by Sackett, Hoyt, and Bergen Sts. From Wil- 
liamsbnrgh (foot of Broadway) to the Penitentiary, by 1st, Kent, Clason, Flushing, 
and Nostrand Aves. ; to the Lutheran Cemetery, to Calvary Cemetery, to Montrose 
Ave. ; from Bridge St. Ferry to Prospect Park ; from Roosevelt St. Ferry to E. 
New York ; from South Ferry to R. R. stations and 34th St. Ferry (cross-town 
line) ; from Grand and Houston St. Ferries to Myrtle Ave. Park ; from Grand St. 
to Pi'ospect Park ; from Greenwood to Bay Ridge and Fort Hamilton. 

Railroads. — From Long Island City to Sag Harbor and Greenport (L. I. R. 
R.; Route 5) ; to College Point and Flushing (Route G) ; to Rockaway an<l Baby- 
lon (Route 4); E. New York to Canarsie and Jamaica; Greenwood to Bath and 
Coney Island. 

Ferries. To New York from Greenpoint Ave., Grand (E. D.), Hudson, 
Bridge, S. 7th, Main, Fulton, and Montague Sts., and Atlantic and Hamilton 
Aves. ; also from Bay Ridge to Wall St. 

Brooklyn was first settled (near the Wallabout) in 1625, by a Huguenot family 
named De Rapalje. For a century and a half its annals were peaceful, and its 
progress slow. The colonization was effected by French exiles and Dutch immi- 
grants, and in 1706 thei-e were but 64 freeholders in the place. Uu account of its 
heights and ravines it was named Breuckleu (Broken Land). 

The Battle of Long Island. 

" There the old-fasliioned colonel galloped through the white infernal 

Powder cloud ; 
And his broadsword was swinging, and his brazen throat was ringing 

Trumpet loud: 
There the blue bullets flew 
And the trooper jackets redden at the touch of the leaden 

Kiflc breath ; 
And rounder, rounder, rounder, roared the iron six-poniulcr. 

Hurling death ! " 

Aug. 22, 1776, a powerful force of British and Hessian troops landed on Long 
Island (at Gravesend Bay), under the guns of 4 frigates. 27,000 American soldiers 
then held New York, but they were mostly militiamen and undisciplined volu.n- 
teers ; and the fortified lines on Gowanus Heights were still incomplete. Tlie 
British r. wing, composed of chosen troops, made a secret circuitous march by 
night from Flatlands, and seizcil the Important and unguarded passes to Jamaica 
and Bedford, on the American 1. (near E. New York). At the same time (Aug. 
27) Gen. Grant advanced the British 1. wing along the line of Bay Ridge to the 
hills of Greenwood Cemcterj', drove back the outposts and Atlce's Penn. troops, 
and halted before Battle Hill, where Lord Stirling was in position with the Penn., 
Del., and Maryland line. Meantime, the British r. was hotly engaged. De Hcis- 
ter's Hessian artillery cannonaded the Americixn works on Mt. Prospect (over the 
Flatbush pass), and the Count Donop led a fierce charge upon the redoubts. Sul- 
hvan's American brigade was now cut off by Clinton, who had driven back the 
militia from Bedford plains; and being caught between the light infantry and 
dragoons on one side, and the Hessians on the other, the brigade was speedily cut 
to pieces. A few fugitives were pursued to Fort Putnam by the grenadiers ; and 
doubtless that work would have been carried and the army on Long Island would 
have been captured, but that the soldiers were restrained by the royalist generals. 
After the debandade on the American 1., Lord Comwallis advanced with intent to 
cut off Stirling and the r, wing ; and Grant drove Atlee's Pennsylvanians from 
Battle Hill. Perceiving that the only hope for his brigade was that the converg- 
ing ho-stile columns might be checked, Stirling took Smallwood's Maryland bat- 
talion as a forlorn hope, and fell upon Cornwallis's grenadiers advancing from the 
N. E. In 20 minutes 259 of tlie patrician youth of Maryland perished about Cor- 
telyou's house, but the British advance was checked, and the Delawares and frag- 
ments of the other regiments escai)ed across the rising tide of Gowanus Creek. 
By mid-day the Battle of Long Island was over, and the Americans had lost 1,650 
men, including Gens. Sullivan and Stirling (who were captured). The British 
loss was 367. The Scotch and Hessi.-in troops gave no quarter ; and the fri;rnt.c 
Roebuck galled the American r. from her moorings off Red Hook. The next day 



40 Route 2. BROOKLYN. 

was stormy and dark, and the British cannonaded the forts from newly raised 
parallels, while vessels of the fleet began to enter the harbor. Therefore, at night, 
when a dense log overhung the lines and river, the 14th Mass. Reg. (500 men of 
Essex Co.; called "the amphibious reg.") was detailed to ferry the broken army 
across the East River. Washington watched the embarkation (from the Fulton 
Ferry site), and it was covered by Mifflin's Pennsylvanians and the Delawares *nd 
Marylanders. From midnight till dawn the Marblehead fishermen i)lied their 
oars, and safely landed the 9,000 Americans, with their baggage and artillery, on 
the N. Y. shore. The British camji Avas alarmed at 4.30 a. m. ; but the last boat 
was out of pistol-shot when their videttes reached the shore and the suuliglit 
broke over th-, river. Gen. Wm. Howe, " the most indolent of mortals," was 
knighted for ^his victory. He was a brother of Richard, Earl Howe, wlio com- 
manded the fleet in N. Y. Harbor, and also of the much-beloved Lord Howe who 
fell before Montcalm's lines at Ticonderoga, in 1758. The Americans evacuated 
New York, Sept. 13, 177G (see page 27). 

Brooklyn, the third city of the Republic, is situated on the W. end of 
Long Island, and is separated from N. Y. City by tlie deep strait called 
the East River. Its population, of 7,175 in the year 1820, had increased 
by 1870 to over 400,000 (of whom 144,713 were of foreign birth). It has 
a water-front of 8 M. along Gowanus Bay and the East River ; and the 
lowlands of the shores rise gradually to well-defined lines of heights. 
The newer parts of the city are laid out in broad avenues and boulevards, 
and afford residences to many tliousands of the merchants and clerics of 
NeAv York. Brooklyn has 12 banks, 13 savings-banks, 10 fire and 2 life 
insurance companies, and 3 daily and 14 other newspapers. It is said to 
have fewer hotels and more fine churches, in proportion to its population, 
than any other American city. There are about 240 churches and chapels, 
and 5 convents. There are 48 public schools, with 725 teachers and 63,004 
pupils; and 200 private schools, witli 25,000 pupils (reports of 1870). 
Tlie commercial facilities of Brookhm are very extensive, including basins 
and piers along the Gowanus and Newtown Creeks and the East River. 
The Atlantic Docks cover 42 acres of deep water, sheltered by a fronting 
wall h M. long and 25 - 150 ft. wide, lined with Avareliouses and elevators. 
The immense Erie Basin is at Red Hook ; and fleets of steamers, coasters, 
and canal-boats pass the winter in and near these basins and Gowanus 
Bay. 

The U. S. Navy Yard is on "Wallabout Bay, about 1 M. from Fulton Ferry, 
and .s the cliief naval station of the RepubHc. It has numerous workshops 
foundries, and storehouses, and an immense Dry-Dock, budt 1S41 - 51, at a cost 
of ;"4 3 000 000. The latter is a mass of granite masonry restmg on 10 000 piles, 
and contains 610,000 gallons of water, which can be removed m 2^ hrs. i his 
dock was lately made faTuous as the prison of. the Spanish iron-clad, the Am-piles. 
\ short causeway leads to the island on which is tlie Ordnance Dock, which was 
completed in 1S60, at a cost of 6 1,900,000. Hundreds of ponderous Dahlgren and 
Parrott guns are parked in the yard ; the most notable of which are the 3 20-inch 
Dahlgrens called "Satan," "Lucifer," and "Moloch." In front of the head- 
nuarters is a trojihy-batterv, among whose cannon is " La Robuste," an ancient 
French 30-pounder captured at San Juan d'Ulloa, and the 11-inch gun of the 
Oneida damaged in the battle of Mobile. Here is also seen the curious torpedo- 
boat Miclqe, captured at Charleston. Among the fri-atr-s which are moored oil 
shore is the old line-of-battle ship Vermont (receiving-ship), and the immense 3- 
turreted iron-clad Roanoke. The Naval Museum contains many relics, among 



BROOKLYN. Route 2. 41 

which are trophies of the Corean war, and the remarkable piece of coral called 
Neptune's Punch-Bowl. This Navy Yard was the scene of unceasing labors dur- 
'wv^ the Secession War. To the E. is the t/. S. Naval Hospital, a marble building 
accommodating 350 patients. The British prison-ships during the Revolution 
were mooi-ed in Wallaljout Bay, and in their gloomy holds 11,500 captive Ameri- 
cans died. The remains of these martyred patriots are now appropriately hon- 
ored and entombed in Washington Park (the site of old Fort Greene), near the 
State Arsenal and S. of the Navy Yard. The Kings County J ad and the City 
Hospital front on this square. 

Fulton St. is the main thoroughfare of tlie city, and ascends from the 
Fulton Ferry-house to the City Hall in a sinuous course of 1 M. It is 
lined with retail stores and offices, and is traversed by many horse-cars. 
The City Hall is a large marble building, at the junction of Fulton and 
Court Sts., in Ionic architecture, and surmounted by a belfry. To the 
E. is the * Kings County Court-House, a spacious marble building, with 
a fine portico, and an iron dome 104 ft. high. The Reformed Dutch 
Cliurch is back of the City Hall, and resembles a Greek temple, with its 
portico of 8 massive Ionic columns. In this vicinity are 2 famous schools, 
— the Polytechnic Institute (Livingston St., near Court), for hoys, and 
the Packer Collegiate Institute (Joralemon St.), for ladies. JMontague 
St. leads, S. W. from the City Hall, to the fine Gothic building of the 
Mercantile Library, which has 50,000 volumes, besides well-sui^plied 
reading-rooms. Opposite the library is the broad front of tlie Academy 
of Music, adjoining the Academy of Design, whose ornate exterior is of 
Scotch and Ohio stone, in many places curiously carved. A broad oaken 
stairway leads up througli the central tower to the gallery, where exhibi- 
tions of pictures are frecjueutly held. Next to the Academy is the new 
building of the U. S. Courts. On the corner of Clinton and Montague 
Sts. is the elegant * Church of the Holy Trinity, with a high clere-story, 
and rich stained windows representing the Messianic ancestry. To the 1., 
on Clinton St., is the ornate Church of St. Ann-on-the-Heights ; and to 
the r., on Pierrepont St., is the Reformed Dutch Church, modelled in- 
ternally after a basilica built by the motlier of Constantine; and also the 
Church of the Saviour (Unitarian), an elaborate piece of pointed archi- 
tecture. Grace Churcli, on Hicks St., near Remsen, is in florid Gothic 
architecture ; and tlie Church of the Pilgrims (corner of Henry and Rem- 
sen Sts.) is in the Nonnan style. On Orange St., near Hicks, is the large 
plain building of Plymouth Church (Henry Ward Beecher). Near the 
end of Montague St. is a high terrace, ovei^looking N. Y. and the East 
River, from which, on r. and L, extend the fashionable streets of Brooklyn 
Heights. The L. I. College Hospital has a large and imposing building, 
in wide grounds, on Henry, near Pacific St, The Long Island Historical 
Society's rooms are at the corner of Joralemon and Court Sts., and con- 
tain (besides a small museum) a library of 23,000 volumes, witli 20,000 
pamphlets and many MSS, From the City Hall, Court St, runs S. E. to 



42 Route 2. BROOKLYN. 

the Brooklyn Basin, on Gowaniis Bay, crossing Atlantic Ave., a broad 
tliorouglilare wliicli extends from the East River N. E. across the city, 
Fulton St. and Ave. passes to the N. E. to E. New York, parallel with 
Atlantic Ave. In the N. part of the city are many miles of residences, 
on long, quiet streets traversed by tram-ways. In this district are many 
fine churches, among which may be named Talmage's new Tabernacle 
(said to be the largest Protestant church in America), on Schermerhorn 
St.; the Clason Ave. and Washington Ave. Churches; St. Mary's, t)n 
Willoughby Ave ; Dr. Scudtler's Tabernacle (of corrugated iron), on 
Hancock St. ; and the unique bi-own-stone building of the Church of the 
Puritans, on Marcy Ave. Near the Clinton Ave. Congregational Church 
(Dr. Budington) are the vast and massive lower walls of the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, where work was suspended several years ago. 

Brooklyn, E. D. (Eastern District), is N. of tlie Navy Yard, and fronts on the 
East River, and was formerly the municipality of Williamsburg. G M. from 
Fulton Ferry is the Cemetery of Cypress Jlills, on the far-viewing ridge called 
"the l.arkbone of Long Island." 85,000 bodies are buried liere. In its vicinity 
is a national cemetery, where 4-5,000 soldioi-s aie buried; also tlie Salemfield 
Cemetery (.Jewisli). To the S. is the Ridgewood Reservoir of the Brooklyn 
Water-Works, covering 48^- acres, and with a caimcity of 162,000,000 gallons. N. 
of Broailway is the Cemetery of the Evergreens, which covers 115 acres, and has 
several small lakes. In Newtown, N. E. f)f Grceniioiiit, is the Calvary Cemetery 
of the Roman Catholic Chmch, in which 84,000 bodies have been buried, 

* Prospect Park (reached by either of several lines of horse-cars from 
the N. Y. ferries) is a noble rival of Central Park, and covers 630 acres of 
broad and verdant meadows, umbrageous groves, and heights which over- 
look the bay and city of New York, Staten Island, and the highlands of 
the Hudson and Neversink. The entrance from Flatbush Ave. is across 
the Plaza, a large circular space in wliose centre is a costly fountain. 
The Plaza is also adorned with a bronze statue of President Lincoln. E. 
of the entrance is the ML Prospect Reservoir, which (with a capacity of 
20,000,000 gallons) supplies the higher parts of the city with water. Tlie 
ornate gate-house overlooks the park, E. New York, Flatbush, Bushwick, 
the great cities and harbor, and tlie blue ocean S., beyond the beaches of 
Rockaway and Coney Island. Near the reservoir are the mazy paths of 
the Flower Garden. There are in this Park 8 I\I. of drives, 4 M. of rides, 
and a great number of rambles. The Parade and the Zoological Ground 
are on the W. side of the Park. From the Plaza, broad drives and sin- 
uous pathways run S. E. to the defde called the Battle Pass, which was 
the scene of sharp fighting during the Battle of Long Island. 

From this point the Forest Road diverges to the 1. through a quiet and 
shadowy glen; Avhile the Lake Road passes on to the Botanical Gardens, 
which are pleasantly situated between placid lakelets near the centre of 
the Park. The Lake covers 61 acres, and its broadest expansion is in tlie 
S. E. part of the Park, beyond the Terrace and Refectory. Near the W. 




GREENWOOD CEMETERY. 



. SykvH Waley 
\. ValUy " . 
\. Arbor " 
\ Deli " . 

;. Crescent " 
J. Dale " . 



C 



3. Bnlt/c Hill . 



.A.i. 



Ocean Hill. . . 

Visla "... 

Glade " . 

Sunsel " .... 

Alfitne '■ . . 

^trav.berry Hill 

Chapel 
. Oak 

. Bay Grove " 
. Attilberry " 

. Tlu: Hillof Graves 



A. I. j 20. Tlie Plateau 

B. a. 21. Canda Monument 
B. 1. 22. Firemen's " 

B. 4- I 33. P^'ot's 

C. 1. 24. Clinioit " 

B. 4. 25. Morse " 

C. 2. 1 26. Anderson " 
2 7, Whitney " 

28. Scrtbner " 

29. Catacombs 

30. Receiving Tomb.- . 



GREENWOOD CEMETERY. Route 2. 43 

entrance is a high bluff, surniouutetl hy a lookout tower wliicli connnands 
a Ijroad view. Among the many fine archways and bridges the most 
l>ioininent are the Nelhermead and Meadow Port Arches and the Cleft 
Ridge Spun. 

* Greenwood Cemetery is 3 M. from Fulton Ferry (several lines of 
horse-cars). It is the most beautiful cemetery in the world, and its forest- 
covered and far-viewing hills are adorned with thousands of costly monu- 
ments and mausolea. The grounds (413 acres) were laid out by skilful 
landscape-gardeners, and are provided with 17 M. of carriage-roads (graded 
and paved) and 15 M. of patlis (covered with concrete). On and about 
these pleasant hills 172,000 bodies have been buried, and about 20 per 
day are now brought to rest in Greenwood. (Carriages are in waiting at 
the entrance, to make the tour of the grounds.) 

The * Nortliern Entrance is a stately Gothic pile of s<andstone, designed by Up- 
john. It is 132^ ft. loug and 40 ft. deep, and the oeutnil pinnacle is 10(5 ft. high. 
On the sides are the otficesof the cemetery ; and in tiic tower is a deep-toned bell 
that tolls at the ai)proach of fnnerals. Above tlie arches are 4 large groups of 
stiituary, representing Ohrist's Entombment, the Resurrection, the Raising of the 
Widow's Son, and tiie Raising of Lazarus. Above these groups are reliefs of 
Faith, Hope, Memory, and Love. From this point Landscape Ave. leads to tiie 
r. by the monuments of ULxon 11. Lewis (U. S. Senator from Georgia) and John 
B. Graham to the Receiving Tomb, in which are 361 coffin-cells. Its ornate front 
looks out on Arbor Water, a placid pond surroundetl by trees. To the E. is Val- 
ley Water, under Strawberry Hill and near tiie densely occupied public lots. To 
the E. beyond Sunset Hill is Siilinn, IVater, the largest and deepest of the lakelits 
of Greenwood. Near this water are the Poet's Mound and tlie monument of 
Dohununee, daughter of a sachem of the Sac Indians, who died in N. Y. wliile on 
an embassy from the W. A line of marble Egyi)tian sepulchres fronts on Svivan 
Water ; on Sylvan Clifl"is the chapel-tomb of G. W. Browne (designed by Upjohn) : 
and on Oaken Bluff are the Skillin, the Becar, and the Judge Bronson niemoiials. 
In the neighl^firing public lots is buried Piero Maroncelli, tlie pri.son-conn-ade of 
Silvio PeUi(-o at Spielberg. On Sylvan Bluff is Catlin's lot ; and near Sylvan 
Water is the Western Entrance to the cemetery. On Lake Ridge are the tcmi)le- 
tombs of Townsend and Miller, beyond whicli is the Aspiuwail monument, on 
Cedar Mt. On Locust Hill is the grave of Horace Greeley. Beyond the Hooker 
and Havemeyer monuments, Orchard .\ve. leads to the grave of George Steei-s, 
the naval architect. Just beyond, and overlooking the deep Crescent Dell, is the 
Firemoi's Moaxment, a lofty t-olumn surmounted by a spirited statue of a lireman 
on duty. Several firemen are buried in this vicinity. On Hill-Girt Lawn is the 
elegant canopied monument of Prof. S. F. B. Morse, tlie inventor of the telegrai>h. 
On Crescent Water front the marble tomb of Niblo, the Gotliic chapel of Plieljts, 
and the gi-ave of Dr. Betlume. Beyond Ali)ine Hill arc the delicate Oriental 
mausoleum of Garrison, the urn of Udol])ho Wolfe, and tlie grave of George AVood. 
On Vista Hill rests Prof Edward Robinson, the foremost Oriental scholar of 
America (near the line statue of Capt. Concja) ; (m Central Ridge are George 
Griswold and Erskine Mason ; ami on Lawn-Girt Hill is tlie Pierrepont mound. 
Buttonwood Hill has the Scliermerliorn mausoleum ; and on Syc^amore Ave. are 
Morgan's Ionic temple and Quintard's statue. On Butternut Hill is the Harjiers' 
lot ; and on Locust Ave. rests Gen. Strong, who fell in tlie assault on F(jrt Wag- 
ner (Charleston). At the crossing of Vine and Cypress Aves. is the open peristyle 
of Scribner, supported by 8 marble pillars and enshrining a statue of Hope, oil a 
pedestal which has reliefs of the Nativity, Crucifi.xion, Resurrection, and Ascen- 
sion (carved in Carrara). On Sassafras Ave. are the grounds of Prof. Renwiek 
and Geoi'ge Law, the financier. On Cypress, near Dawn Ave., rests Gen. O. M. 
Mitchell, the astronomer and soldier. On Ocean Ave. are Dr. Valentine Mott and 
Rev. Dudley A. Tyng, whose famous dying words, " Stand up for Jesus," are carved 
upon the monument. On Atlantic Ave., near Ocean, are the graves of David 



44: Route 2. CONEY ISLAND. 

A1)eel, tlie missionary, John Cleveland, and the Cornell family. David Hale lies 
near Border Ave. On Ocean Hill (whieh overlooks Long Island and the ocean) is 
the costly and massive octagonal inansoleum of Stephen Whitney, with lancet 
windows of stained glass. Near Grove Ave. are the gronnds of Liiientlial, Peter 
Cooper, Cutler, Arnold (with a costly memorial), and Cozzens, on which is a tine 
bas-relief by H. K. Brown. On Atlantic Ave. is the Soldiers' Lot, where, on the 
30th of May of each year, the (titizens strew Howei-s over the graves of many oHi- 
eers and s<jldiers who died in the Secession "\Yai-. Near this is the Hill of (hxives, 
which is thickly covered with lines of grassy mounds. On Meadow Hill the tomb 
of W. S. Packer is adorned with a bronze statue of Faith (by H. K. Brown). At 
the corner of Battle and Greenbough Aves. is the * tomb of Charlotte Cauda, the 
must niteresting i)oiut in the cemetery. It consists of a floridly ornamented* 
Gothic arch, flanked by tall buttresses with floral linials and enshrining a st;ituc 
of Miss Cauda. Carved flowers, birds, and tripods adorn the monument, anil on 
eitiier side are kneeling statues of angels. Miss Cauda was the daughter of an 
oftieer of Napoleon's army who came to America after the battle of Waterloo. In 
1845, on her 17th birthday, she was returning home from an evening party, when 
tiie horses of her carriage ran away and she was thrown out and fatally injured. 
The monument was designed by herself for an aunt who had recently died. On 
IJattle Ave. are the groinids of James Goi-don Bennett (founder of the N. V. 
Herald), adorned with rich and delicate Italian stiituary. On Highland Ave. is a 
statue of the Savioui-, on Peter Gilsey's lot ; and not far distant are the graves of 
several officers Avho fell in the Mexican War. On Battle Hill is the Pilot's Mouu- 
iiicnt, a marble shaft tm which is a statue of Hope, erected in memory of Thomas 
Freeborn, who lost his life whih; i>iloting a ship on tlie N. J. coast. Near by is 
an Ionic teniide with statues of the 4 Evangelists, belonging to John Anderson ; 
and the trophy-adorned monument of Col. Vosburgh (71st N. Y.) is E. of the Pi- 
lot's. From the summit of Battle Hill is obtained a broad view of the Bay of 
N. Y., the great cities, Staten Island, and the N. J. shore. The *view from the 
Plateau, just S. E. of Battle Hill, is even more grand, and includes also the level 
plains of Long Island and the blue ocean. In Bay Side Dell, near the Northern 
Entrance, is the bronze statue of DeWitt Clinton, the originator of the Erie Canal, 
Gov. of N. Y., 1817-22 and 1824 -27, and candidate for the Presidency in 1812. 
On Battle Hill is the new monument erected by N. Y. City to her dead soldiers. 
It is a granite shaft, adorned with bas-reliefs and guarded by 4 bronze statues. 

Bay Ridge is S. W. of Brooklyn, on the shore of the bay, and has 
many pleasant villas, an Athenaeum, and a line view over the inner harbor. 
It is i-eached by horse-cars from Greenwood, or by ferry (15c.) from the 
Wall St. ferry-house, N. Y. Farther S is Fort Hamilton, a village front- 
ing on the Narrows, near which is tlie Kings County Inebriate A.syluni. 
The Delhvood House, near Bay Ridge, is visited in summer. 

Conoy Island (^T^J^uwfi //o«5e; Fcltefs; Ocean; and several restaurants 
and small hotels) is reached by cars from Greenwood Cemetery, passing 
through the pleasant village of Bath {Bath Hotel; Atlantic), on Graves- 
end Bay. It is also reached by cars from Fulton Ferry and Prospect 
Park, and by steamboat from Pier 1, E. R. The island is 4-^- M. long, 
and very narrow, and is compose*!, for the most part, of sand-dunes. 
The beach is hard and level, and affords a good driveway for 3 M. The 
bathing is good, and clams and fi.sh abound. Between the island and 
Sandy Hook is the wide Lower Bay, with the sinuous ship-channels to 
tlie inner harbor. Of late years this beach has been the favorite excur- 
sion-point of the lower classes of New York, and visitors returning on 
the late boats will be apt to see much boisterous and uncouth conduct. 
A fine shell-road leads to the mainland and the ancient town of Graves- 



STATEN ISLxiND. Rmite S. 45 

end, which was founded before 1G40 by Quakers from Mass. , under the 
direction of Lady Deborah Moody. E. of Coney Island is Barren Island, 
where the dead animals of New York are utilized by large bone-boiling 
establishments. 

3. Staten Island. 

Steamhoats run hourly from Pier 19 N. R. to New Brighton, Port Richmond, 
and Elm Park ; and tVoni Whitehall St. to Tompkinsville, Stapletou, and Clifton 
(fare, 10c. ). Each of these lines passes down the harbor between the fortiiied 
islands, and affords panoramic views of the cities on either shore. Horsc-curs 
traverse the populons N. .shore of the island ; and the Staten Island R. R. runs 
S. W. 13 M., from Vauderbilt's Landmg to Tottenville. 

Staten Island, 'Hhe American Isle of Wight," and the "Staaten 
Eylandt " of the Dutch era, is S. W, of N. Y. Bay, and pertains to the 
State of N. Y. It is separated from New Jersey by the long and narrow 
Staten Island Soimd and the Kill Von Kull, and from Long Island by 
the Narrows, and fronts to the S. E., on Raritan Bay. It has an area of 
58i sq. M., and a population of 33,029 (in 1870). The drives about the 
upper part of the island are very attractive, especially those on Rich- 
mond Terrace, the Serpentine Road, Clove Road, Vanderbilt Avenue, and 
to Silver Lake and Ocean View. There are broad views from the heights 
over the bay and the ocean. The mts. of N. J. are in the W.; and to 
the N. E, are the thronged harbor and the great cities. 

Hudson visited the island in 1609, and in 1630 Michael Pauw established here 
the feudal domain of Pavonia. The first village was founded in 1639, and was 
destroyed 4 yeai-s later by the Indians. Many French Huguenots settled here 
after tlie revocation of the Edict of Nantes ; and tlie British held possession 
during the Revolution, though much harassed by partisan attacks from the N. J. 
shore (especially those under Gen. Sullivan, Aug. 21, 1777, when 150 British soldiers 
were made prisoners, and by Lord Stirling, with 2,500 men, in 1780). Extensive 
encampments were formed here in 1812-15, and during the Secession War. 

New Brighton (St. Mark's ; Pavilion ; Belmont ; simimer hotels) is a 
popiilous village, containing 9 churches and many pleasant villas of N. 
Y. merchants. To the W., and fronting on the Kill Von Kull, are the 
fine buildings of the Sailors' Snug Harbor, which was founded in 1831, 
for the support of aged and disabled seamen who have sailed for 5 years 
from the port of N. Y. It accommodates 300 men, and has large rev- 
enues. Near the Snug Harbor is an asylum for 130 destitute children of 
seamen. Port Richmond is a manufacturing village W. of this point. 
Tompkinsville is under the heights, which are 310 ft. above the sea, and 
was formerly the site of the extensive Quarantine buildings, destroyed 
by the people in 1858. The present N. Y. Quarantine is "without a 
rival in the world," and is located on Dix and Hoffman Islands, 2 arti- 
ficial works on West Bank Shoal, 2h M. S. of the Narrows, and Ih M. 
from the shore. There is also a hospital-ship moored in the Lower Baj^, 
and cases of ship-fever and small-pox are sent respectively to Ward's and 
Blackwell's Island. VanderbilVs Landing is near the villages of Staple- 



4G Rmde/f. STATEN ISLAND. 

ton and Clifton, which front on the Narrows. In this vicinity is the 

Seamen's Retreat (accommodating 200 sick seamen); also the Mariners' 

Family Asylum, and St. Mary's Orphan Asylum. On Clifton Heights is 

the Chestnut Grove House, a summer hotel overlooking the Bay. 

The Staten Island Jl. li. runs S. W., by the Moravian hamlet of New 

Dorp to Court-House, which is near Eiclnnond, the county-seat, where 

is the venerable Church of St. Andrew, built in 1713, and rebuilt in 1867. 

The Lower Bay and Raritan Bay are often seen on the 1. as the train 

passes through the broad town of Westfield (famous for oysters), and the 

low shores of Sandy Hook are visible in the distance. Near Totienville, 

the tenninus of the road, is the old Billop House, where, after the Battle 

of Long Island, Lord Howe held a barren conference with Franklin, 

Adams, and Rutledge, who had been sent by Congress to treat for peace. 

A steam-ferry crosses from Tottenville to Perth Amboy, wlience trains 

run to New York, by way of Rah way and Newark, in 27 M. 

The Fortifications. — 1 M. S. E. of Clifton is Fort Richmond, situated on a 
higli bluU", ami uiuuutiiiy 140 guns. It is a massive work, with granite walls, 
se(;ond only to Fortress Monroe in strength, and arranged to deliver a ]ilui)ging 
lire on the Narrows. Attached to Fort Richmond are 4 clifF-hatteries, mounting 
80 heavy camion ; and at the water-side is Foi't Tompkins, with 40 guns sweeping 
the channel. Fort JIa>uilton is opposite Fort Richmond, and is a rectangular 
bastioned work of blue granite, with a iieace-garrison of 3 companies, in case- 
mate-ban-acks. It has a water-battery of 18 15-in(;h guns, and 2 lines of heavy 
batteries on the Bath Road, commanding the liower Bay and Gravesend Bay. 
Several of these guns are Rodmans, throwing 1,000-pound shot. The main work 
mounts 80 guns, cost ^;500,000, and was built 1824 - 32. A field-battery on this jiosi- 
tion was demolished by a broadside from the British line-of-battle ship Asia in 1776. 
On a reef 200 yards oil' shore is Fort Lafayette, which was built in 1 812, cost $ 350,000, 
mounted 73 guns, and was famous .as a prison for disloyal civilians during the 
Secession War. It was burnt out in 1868, and has not yet been re-armed. On 
Sandy Hook is a well-armed lunette, with flanking batteries, to keep the Lower 
Bay clear. After passing the 400 lieavy guns which bear on the Narrows (at this 
point less than 1 M. wide), a liostile lieet would enter the convergent fire of the 
300 guns of the forts of the inner harbor. Some years ago surveys were made 
for a fort on ('oney Island, but were stopped after Maury's report to Congress, in 
which that skilful engineer said, "Were it possible for an enemy, with the greatest 
army that was ever led into battle by the greatest captain, to take the country by 
surprise, and to land on Long Island, .... and to be disembarking his last piece 
of artillery before he was discovered, the iierfection of our raih'oad and telegraph 
system is such as would enable the government, before he could reach the heights 
of Brooklyn, to have there in waiting, and ready to receive him, and beat him 
back to the sea, a force two to one greater than his, however strong." 

4. The South Shore of Long Island. 

By the S. Side R. R., whose W. terminus, at the foot of S. 8th St., Brooklyn, is 
reached by ferry-boats from the foot of Grand St. and of Roosevelt St., N. Y., or 
by the Greeupoint horse-cars from Fulton Ferry, Brooldyn. Trahis run to Patch- 
ogue, the E. terminus, in 2^-3 hrs. Fare to Roekaway, 50c. ; Islip, $1.25; 
Patchogue, $1.50. 

Stations, Brooklyn ; Bushwick Avenue, 2 M. ; Berlin, 9 ; Jamaica, 10 ; Spring- 
field, llJ- ; Valley Stream, 16 (crossing of branch lines to Hempstead, and to 
Woodsburgh, 18 ; Far Roekaway, 21 ; Seaside House, 25) ; Pearsall's Corner, 18 ; 
Rockville Centre, 19 ; Merrick, 24 ; S. Oyster Bay, 28 ; Amityville, 31 ; Babylon, 
86 ; Islip, 43 ; Patchogue, 54. 



ROCKAWAY BEACH. Rmte 4. 47 

I The train is drawn from the station by a dummy-engine, and a loco- 
motive is attached at Bushwick Ave. To the r. of Glendale station is 

j Cypress Hills Cemetery (see page 42). The train passes the Green Hills, 
and soon reaches Jamaica (see Route 5). From Jamaica the line runs S. 
E. over broad alluvial plains, and beyond the hamlet of Springfield the 
long earth-covered line of the Brooklj-n Aqueduct is crossed. From Val- 
ley Stream a branch R. R. runs N. E. to Hempstead (see Route 5) ; and 
another branch diverges to the S. W. to Rockaway Beach. Near Woods- 
burgh is the *Woodsburgh FavUion, a new smd spacious summer-hotel, 
with cottages connected. The Neptune House is smaller. A short dis- 
tance beyond is Far Rockaway, a small handet with several beach-hotels, 
the best of which are the Atlantic, United States, Pavilion, and Natioiuil. 
Tliis was formerly the most fashionable of the N. Y. beaches, and is re- 
gaining much of its old poj^ularity. The surf-bathing has been much im- 
proved by the Avashing away of the sand-bar which formerly fronted the 
beach ; and wild ducks and bluefish are successfully sought in the vicinity. 
To the W. is Rockaway Beach, a long and narrow sandy peninsula which 
runs 8 M. W. between the ocean and Jamaica Bay, a broad inlet which 
encloses several marshy islands. On this strand the Rockaway Indians 
formerly, made much wampum. Near the end of the beach the Bristol 
was wrecked in 1835, and 77 lives were lost. Surf-bathing is obtained on 
the S. side of the beach, and still- water bathing on the N. During the 
summer many visitors come here by means of the horse-cars from Fulton 
Ferry to E. New York, and a dummy-train thence to Canarsie (3^ M.), 
whence steamboats cross Jamaica Bay to the beach in 6 - 8 M. The prin- 
cipal hotels on the beach are HavimeVs and the Seaside, at the latter of 
which (4 M. from Far Rockaway) the branch R. R. ends. 

The main line passes E. from Valley Stream by Pearsall's Corner to 
Rockville Centre, S. of which is Near Rockaway and Hempstead Bay, 
abounding in islands (on one of which the Mexico was wrecked in 1837, 
and 116 lives were lost). The train now traverses wide plains, through 
which flow prolific trout-streams (preserved), and passes several small 
hamlets. *S'. Oyster Bay is near the bay of that name, and has 2 hotels; 
and Amity ville {South Side House; Ketcham House) is near the W. end 
of the Great South Bay. Babylon {Lagrange House; American; 
Savipwanis) is a comfortable village built on 2 intersecting streets, and 
famous for its fishing (10 tons of fish are sometimes sent to N. Y. in a 
single day). \ M. S. are the broad waters of the Great S. Bay ; and stages 
run from the station to the landing (1 M.), whence a steamboat crosses 
several times daily to Fire Island (8 M. S. E.)- This beach occupies the 
W. end of that remarkable peninsula of sand-dunes which extends for 
nearly 40 M. to the N. E., with a width of but a few rods. It shelters 
the broad estuaries of Great S. Bay, Moriches Bay, and Shiunecock Bay ; 



48 Routes. FIRE ISLAND. 

and is joined to tlie mainland by the isthmus of Quogue Neck, about 35 
M. from Fire Ishiud. This vast strand is one of the most Ion el j' and soli- 
tary places on the coast, but affords good bathing (surf or still-water), 
and a large fleet of pleasure-boats is kept near the hotels. The exciting 
sport of bluerishiiig is m\ich in vogue oft" the inlet and in the Bay. The 
* Surf House (500 guests) is a large and fashionable hotel ; and the Old 
Doviiny House is smaller but comfortable. Near these hotels is the Fire 
Island Light, a revolving light on a tower 150 ft. high, visible for 19 M. • 
at sea. This is one of the most important lights on the coast for in and 
out bound vessels, from its relation to N. Y. Bay. Numerous wrecks 
have occiu-red on this strand, in one of which Margaret Fuller, Countess 
d'Ossoli, was lost (1S50). 

Beyond Babylon the lino passes the villas of Bay Shore (seat of the 
Olympic Club) and Islip Centre, and reaches Islip (* Painlian ; Still in- 
werVs), a pleasant village in a fruit-producing district, and near the trout- 
ponds and Hue club-house of the Sportsmen's Club. Islip is much visited 
in summer, and has several pretty villas near the Great S. Bay. The 
hotels on Fire Island Beach are seen on the S. The train now passes the 
hamlets of Oakdale, Sayville (1,200 inhabitants ; 4 churches, several sum- 
mer boarding-houses), and Bayport, and reaches the present tei'minus of 
the R. R. at Patchogue {S. Side Hotel eimi Hoe's Hotel, S2.50 a day; 
and several boarding-houses at § 8- 12 a week). Tliis is a busy village of 
3,000 inhabitants, manufactimng rope, paper, and flour, and is nearly 1 
M. from the Great S. Bay. Trout and perch are found in the ponds; 
larger fish aboimd in the Bay; and oysters and clams are found in large 
quantities. 

4 M. S. across the Bay is Watch Hill, on Fire Island Beach, 12-15 M. N. E. of 
Fire Island Light: ami 4 M. N. of Patohogue is Mcdford, on the L. I. R. 11. 
Stages run 4 >I."E. from Patehogne to Moriches and South Haven, passing Bellport, 
a iileasant village on Heliport Bay, with numerous boarding-houses (;? 7 - 10 a week). 
Across the Bay and near the hamlet of :Mastic are the remains of Fort George, a 
Tory post which was attacked iu 17S0 by Tallmage's light dragoons. The Ameri- 
cans burst through the stockade late at iiiglit, and assailed the redoubt on 3 sides, 
shouting, " Washington and Glory." TheTory garrison, numbering 300 men, sur- 
rendered unconditionally, and was deported into Conn. 

5. Long Island. The North and East Shores. 

By the Long Island R. R. and its bran(!hes, whose W. terminus is at Hunter's 
Point (above Brooklyn), and is reached by ferry-boats from James Slip and from 
34th St., N. Y. Trains nm to Greenport.'the E. terminus, in 4-4^ hi-s. Fare to 
Hempstead, 50c.; Huntington, 95e. ; Riverhead, §;i.30; Greenport, $2.75; Sag 
Harbor, §2.75. 

Stations, Himter's Point ; Woodside, 3 M. ; Winfield, 4 ; Jamaica, 10 (Brook- 
lyn Central Branch to E. New York) ; Queens, 13 ; Hyde Park, IG^ ; Mineola, 19 
(branch lines to Hempstead, 21 J ; Roslyn, 2.;^; Glenhead, 25^; Glen Cove, 27?; 
and Locust Valley) ; Westbury, 22 ; Hieksyille, 25 (Northport Branch to Syosset, 
29 : Huntington, 34^ ; Northport, 40 ; St. Johnsland, 45 : Smithtown, 4S| ; St. 
James, 51^ ; Setauket, 56^ ; and Port Jetlerson, 59) ; Jerusalem, 28 ; Farraingdale, 



1 



1 



JAMAICA. Route 5. 49 

; Deer Park, 36 ; Brentwood, 41 ; N. Islip, 42i ; Lakeland, 4S ; Holbrook, 50 ; 
Medford, 54 ; Bellport, 55^ ; Yaphank, 59 ; Manor, G5 (divergence of Sag Harbor 
Branch to Moriches, 70 ; Speonk, 73 ; W. Hamjjton, 75 : Quogue, 78 ; Good 
Ground, 83 ; Soutliampton, 90 ; Bridgehampton, 90 ; and Sag Harbor, 100) ; 
Riverhead, 73 ; Janiesport, 78 ; Mattituck, 82 ; Cutchogue, 85 ; Hermitage, 88 ; 
Southold, 90 ; Greeiiport, 94, 

Liong Island includes the 2 S. E. counties of the State of N. Y., and, ac- 
cording to Walt Whitman, has the form of a fish. It is 140 M. long, contains 
1,680 square M., and has (exclusive of Brooklyn) 144,210 inhabitants. On the N. 
is Long Island Sound ("the American Mediterranean"), which is 25 M. broad at 
its greatest width, and is the chief avenue of commerce and travel between N. 
Y. and the Eastern States. It is thought that when the obstructions at Hell 
Gate are removed, N. Y. City will change front to the E., and the European 
commerce will enter the port by way of the Sound. The island, at its W. end, 
shelters N. Y. Harbor, and at the E. end breaks into a chain of narrow ]ienin- 
sulas and islands. On the S. is a continuous line of broad lagoons, separated 
from the ocean by narrow sand-bars. The Soil is an alluviiil saiidy loam, for the 

, most part level, and very productive when fertilized. The pojiulation (outside of 
Bi'ooklyn) is mostly agricultural and myritime, and supjilics tiie metropolis with 
great quantities of fruit and vegetables, fish, oysters, and clams. The island is 
well served by lines of railroad and steamboats^ and contains many favorite sea- 
side resorts. 
There were 13 tribes of Indians resident here, most of whom were engaged in 

; the manufaeturc of wampum. The Montaulcs were the most formidable, and 
waged frequent wars with tlic Tequots on the mainland. Tlie Euroi)ean occupa- 
tion was commenced early in the 17th century, by the Puritans on the E.,aiid 
the Dutch on the W. The former annexed their insular towns to Connecticut ; 
but after the British conquest of N. Y. (in 1664) they joined the latter pnnince. 
The island was held by the British ainiy tlirougliout the Revolution, unmolested 
save by forays made in whale-bonts irom tlie Conn, coast. The comparative 
mildness of the climate and tlie cheapness of tlie soil have induced many settlers 
to locate here since the completion of the railroad system. 

Pas.sing out through Hunter's Point (Long Island City), the train runs 
by Woodside, witli its embowered villas, and Wwjidd, where the Flush- 
ing and N. Side R. R. crosses tlie present route. Station, Jamaica {Rcni- 
sen House ; Union), a pleasant and prosperous village in the midst of 
a district of market-gardens. It has 3,791 inhabitants, a new town-hall, 
3 weekly papers, 7 churches, and several academies. 

Jamaica was formerly the seat of the Jameko Indians, and was settled by men 
of New England in 1656, under permission from the Dutch authorities at N. Y. 
The name of Rusdorp was given to the village ; and during the pestilence at N. 
Y., in 1702, the government of the province was located here. The S. Side R. R. 
(Route 4) passes through this vilLige ; and the Brooklyn Central Brancli R. R. 
runs W. to Clarenceville, Woodhaven, Union Course (the race-course here has 
been discontinued), Cypress Avenue (with Cj^ress Hills Cemetery to the N.), and 
E. New York. Horse-cars also run to E. New York (connecting for Canarsie and 
Rockaway, and for Fulton Ferry). The low ridge called the Backbone of Long 
Island is seen on the 1., as the train passes E. by Queens and the level commons 
of Hyde Park to Mineola, the county-seat. 

A branch line runs 2^ M. S. to Hempstcad{2 hotels), a place of 2,316 inhabitants, 
situated on the great Hempstead Plains, which are 15 M. long and 4 M. wide. 
7,000 acres on the Plains were bought by A. T. Stewart, and a R. R. Avas built 
thence to Brooklyn, with intent to found a residence-city for the working-people 
of N. Y. Hempstead was settled in 1643 by a Puritan church from AVeathers- 
lield, Conn. Its leader was Rev. Richard Denton, of whom Cotton Mather said, 
" His well-accomplished mind in his lesser body was an Iliad in a nutshell." 
A branch of the S. Side R. R. leads S. from Hempstead to Rockaway Beach. 

The Glen Cove Branch runs N. from Hempstead to Koslyii (Mansion House), a 
pleasant village at the head of Hempstead Harbor. In this vicinity is Cedar- 

3 D 



50 Route b. OYSTER BAY. 

Dicre, the home of tlie venerable poet and .ioumalist, William Cnllen Bryant. S. 
E. of Roslyn is Harbor Hill, the highest summit on L. 1.(319 ft), whence are 
obtained i>'leasant views ovci' the Sound; and a few M. N. W., ou Manhasset 
Neck, is SamW Point, with a quiet summer hotel. In this township (N. Hemp- 
stead) a colony of people from Lynn, Mass., settled about 1640, but were speedily 
driven away by the Dutch. S. L. Mitchill, the scientist, and Willard Post, the 
eminent ]>hVsician, were natives of this town. From Roslyn, the train runs N. 
near Hempstead Harbor, to Glen Cove {*PainIio)i House, with broad piazzas 
fronting the water), the seat of a large starch-factory. Dr. Valentine Mott was a 
native of this village. There are many Quakei-s in the vicinity, and the shores 
of the harbor are nuich visited in summer. The present terminus of the Gleu 
Cove Branch is at Locust Valley, 4 M. N. E. of Glen Cove. 

Beyond Mineola, the L. I. R. R. runs N. E., hy the dairy-lands of 
Westbury, to Hicksville. To the N. is Jericho, Avliich was bought of the 
Indians, in 1650, by Robert, the brother of Roger Williams. Here Elias 
Hicks, the Quaker schismatic, lived and preached from ]771 to 1830. He 
rode 10,000 M. on his missionary circuits, and preached over 1,000 times, 
and was an opponent of war and slavery. The Norlliport Branch nms 
from Hicksville N. E. to Syosset, whence stages run to Oyster Bay 
and Cold Spring (* Wamoepck Jlou^e), a pretty village on Cold Spring 
Harbor. This deep inlet from L. I. Sound is much visited in summer ; 
and its best hotel is * LaurcUon Hall, a new and costly house, with 100 
rooms, situated on a wooded hill overlooking the water (reached ]jy steam- 
boat from Pier 37 E. R., at 4 P. m.). Many farm-houses about Syosset 
Bay take summer boarders at moderate prices. 

Lloyd's Neck, a high and far-viewing peninsula facing the Sotnid, was bought 
of the Sachem Ratiocan in l(i54, and was formed into the manor of Queen's 
Village. It was fortified by 11. e British in the Revolution, and the Duke of 
Clarence (afterward King AVilliam IV.) was an officer in the garrison. Here 
was the head-quarters oi the Boaid of Associated Loyalists, whose irregular 
troops fought all along the Sound with tlie Connectic-ut whale-boat men. In July, 
1781, Count Barras sent 3 Frencli frigates from Newjjort to attack tlie fort, then 
garrisoned by 800 men. The naval bombardment was ineffectual, the colunm of 
troops (under Baron dc Angely) which assaidted the works was repulsed, and the 
expedition returned to Newport. In 1778-0, Simcoe's Queen's Rangers occupied 
and fortified Oyster Bay ; and later in tlic same year the Americans attacked 
Lloyd's Neck at night, carried the works, and led the garrison (500 men) captive 
t<< Connecticut. In 1G72, George Fox jTeached from a large rock, which is still 
shown, in Oyster Bay village. This idace was the boundary between the Dutch 
and English colonies" (as estaT)lishcd by the Treaty of Hartford, ui 1C50), and was 
settled in 1653 by a jiomadic Pilgrim church from Sandwich, Majis., the land 
having been purchased frr)m Assiapum, Sachem of the Matinecocks. Near 
Oyster Bay (in 1776) was captured Cai)t. Nathan Hale of Congress's Own Regi- 
ment (Conn, line), who had been sent by Washington to examine the British 
camps and works at Brooklyn. He was executed the next day as a spy, and, 
though but 21 years of age, met his fate bravely, his last words being, "I only 
regret that I have but one life to give for my country." His farewell letters to 
his friends were destroyed by the British ]>rovost-marshal, "that the rebels 
should not know they had a man in their army who could die with so much 
firmness." 

The train passes N. E. from Syosset to Huntington, wliich was founded 
in 1654, and was fortified in 1782 by Thompson's Royal Dragoons. Here 
were born B. Y. Prime, the poet, and N. S. Prime, the divine, whose 
sons, S. Ircnseus and William C. Prime, have attained high ranks in their 



RONKONKOMA LAKE. Routed. 51 

respective departments of literature. The village is some distance N. of 
the station, and has 2,433 inhabitants, 6 churches, and several reputable 
schools. It is pleasantly situated on Huntington Harbor, one of the 
deep and irregular inlets which open on L. I. Sound. Station, North - 
port {Northport House; Washington), a sequestered village at the head 
of a deep and hill-environed harbor, much visited in summer. Ship- 
building is the chief industry. N. of St. Johnsland station is St. John's 
Church, a printing-office, and 13 other buildings, forming an Episcopal 
charitable establishment which pertains to St. Luke's Hospital, of N. Y. 
City. Smithtoion station is N. of the village (foimded in 1665, by 
Richard Smith, a vetei-an of Cromwell) ; and St. James is on Stony 
Brook Harbor. Near Smithtown Bay was the Tory Fort Slongo, which 
was stormed at dawn, Oct. 10, 1781, by 150 American troops. The train 
now passes Setauket (whose first pastor was the first American-born 
graduate of Harvard) and stops at Port Jeiferson (large summer-hotel), 
a ship-building village with 3 churches and 1,500 inhabitants. A steam 
ferry-boat crosses the Sound to Bridgeport, Conn., twice daily. Tlie 
trend of the coast E. from Port Jefferson is followed for many miles by a 
highway, which passes several obscure marine hamlets. 



Beyond Hicksville the main line of the L. L R. R. runs S. E. by Jeru- 
salem and the sandy j^lains of Faiuiiingdale, then turns to the E. by a line 
of hills and passes Deer Park and Brentwood, in the thuily populated 
town of Huntington. On the 1. are the West and the Dix Hills. From 
N. Islip stages run S. to Islip (see page 48) in 4-5 M. The train now 
crosses the level brush plains to Lakeland, which is 1 M. S. of Ronbm- 
koma Lake, a pretty sheet of fresh water among the forests. There are 
several summer residences on the shores, and the sailing and perch-fishing 
are good. The Lake House is of good repute. 

The T^ake is 1 M. in diameter, "of singular transparency and wonderful depth," 
and is bordered by a bcacli of white sand. It has no inlet or outlet ; and ri' es 
and falls every 4 years. To the S. extends the town of Islip, which was formerly 
densely populated by the Patchojjue and Secatogue Indians, who were engaged in 
the )nanufactnre of wampum (the money of the abcn-iginal Americans ; consisting 
of Ihe thick blue part of sea-clam shells, ground into the form of bugle beads, 
and strung u])on hempen cords a foot long). The town was settled and named 
by immigrants from Islip, in old Oxfordshire ; and was incorporated in 1700. 

Beyond Lakeland the train passes the rural hamlets of Holbrook, 
Waverly, and Medford. From Bellport station stages run S. 3 M. to 
Bellport (see jiage 48). At Yaj^hank the line crosses the Connecticut 
River (of L. I.) and traverses the ''Wild District." Stages run S. W. 
from Yaphank (and from Manor also) to Centre Moriches {Ocean House; 
Moriches; Long Island; Baldivin), a pleasant village wiiich is mtich 
visited in summer. Large quantities of fish, crabs, and wild fowl are 



52 Routes. SAG HARBOR. 

sent thence to N. Y. Sail-boats run regularly across the Bay to the outer 

beach, where the Havens House is situated and surf-bathing is practised. 

There are numerous summer boarding-houses in Moriches and across the 

Tenillo River at E. Moriches (.$6-10 a week). Beyond Yaphank the 

train traverses the Wild District to Manor. 

The Sag Harbor Branch runs S. E. from Manor to Moriches (stages to 

the bay-side Moriches), Speonk (famous for the fine eels which are taken 

in the adjacent waters), W. Hampton^ and Quogue, where there are 

several large boarding-houses. The lower hamlet is surrounded on three 

sides by salt water, and is on the isthmus which joins the great Fire 

Island Beacli to the mainland. The Shinnecock Hills are on the 1. and 

Shinnecock Bay is on the r., as the train passes near Good Groxmd and the 

lofty lighthouse of Ponquogue. At Canoe Place the line traverses a 

narrow isthmus between the Sliinnecock and Great Peconic Bays, and 

reaches the remote Peninsula of Montauk. The Canoe Place clams are 

esteemed as the best in the N. Y. markets. 

Southampton is a sequestered marine village near the ocean. It was 
scttlfil in 1040 by a company from Lynn, Mass.. wlio had been driven by the 
I")utoh from the E. part of L. I. ; and in 1644 it was annexed to Conuectieut. 
Tlie first minister of this theocratic colony was Abraham Pierson, who learned 
the language of the L. I. Indians and prea(;hed to them. According to Cotton 
Mather, he was " a true child of Abraham, and is now safely lodged in the Sinu 
Abraha." His son was the first President of Yale College. Near Canoe Place, 
W. of Southampton, Paul Ciilfee is buried, hard by his ancient chui'ch. He was 
a negro-Indian half-breed fi-om the Elizabeth Islands ; acquired wealth by sea- 
ftirijig pursuits ; devoted his life to the elevation of the two downtrodden 
colored races ; and was one of the founders of Sierra Leone. On a long peninsula 
W. of Southampton dwells the Shinnecock tribe of Indians, a peaceful Christian 
clan whose young men make daring sailors and whale fishermen. Like most of 
the tribes along the Atlantic, they are ranked as an alien community, and are not 
liable to the duties of voting and paying taxes. The peninsula was sold by the 
sachems to the town in 1703 ; and was then leased back to the tribe for the term 
of 1,000 years, at an annual rent of one ear of corn. 

The train passes Mecox Bay and Bridgeham]iton, and runs N. E. to Sag 

Harbor (* E. End House), a village of 1,723 inhabitants, with a bank 

and 3 weekly papers. It is situated at the head of Northwest Bay, amid 

line marine scenery which has been described by Cooi^er in the "Sea 

Lions." 

Sag Harbor was settled by Mass. fishermen in 1730, and was made a port of 
entry in 1784. At an early date whales were killed by boats from the beaches in 
this vicinity ; and in 1841 Sag Harbor had a whaling fleet of 43 vessels (40 of 
which Avere ships). 1,025 mariners were employed on these vessels ; the voyages 
were made to the S. Atlantic and Pacific, and averaged 16 months in duration ; 
and in 1841 there were brought into this port 6,726 barrels of sperm, 58,827 of 
oil, and 482,110 lbs. of whalebone. The gold-fever in California paralyzed this 
maritime industry, and in 1870 there were Init 4 whaling-vessels owned here. 
For 25 years the village has been decadent ; but since the construction of the 
R. R. (1869) it has revived somewhat, and is now miich visited in summer. In 
May, 1777, 130 Americans crossed L. I. Sound from New Haven in whale-boats, 
and surprised by night the British garrison at this point. The military stores 
here collected and 12 vessels in the harbor were burned, and 90 royalist soldiers 
were led into captivity. In 1813 a boat expedition from the British fleet, which 



MONTAUK POINT. Routed. 53 

lay in Gardiner's Bay througliout the War of 1812, attempted to cut out some 
vessels from before the village ; liut the invaders were driven off by the fort and 
the militia. Steamboats run from Pier 16, E. R. , N. Y. City, at 5 p. m. on Tues., 
Thurs., and Sat., to Orient, Greenport, New Suffolk, and Sag Harbor, — returning 
at 4 p. ai. on the alternate days (the fare is .-iJl.oO). The steamer Sunshine runs 
from Hartford and New London (Conn.) to Greenport and Sag Harbor, leaving 
Hartford on Tues., Thurs., and Sat., and returning on alternate days. 

East Hampton is 7 M. S. E. of Sag Harbor (daily stages), and 1 M. 
from the sea. It was founded in 1648 by men from Essex Comity, Mass., 
who protected the Indians from the fierce assaults of hostile tribes. From 
1657 to 1667 it was a part of Connecticut ; and in June, 1775, nearly every 
male inhabitant (253 in number) signed an agreement to support the Con- 
tinental Congress. The village is one of the most quaint and sequestered 
on the Atlantic coast ; and has gray old colonial houses, windmills, and a 
church which was built in 1652, rebuilt in 1717, and remodelled in 1822. 
Lyman Beech er, " the father of more brains than any other man in Amer- 
ica," was pastor here from 1798 to 1810 ; and under his influence the 
street was planted with the elm-trees Avhich are now the pride of the vil- 
lage. Summer boarders are taken at several houses. S. E. are several 
ponds of fresh water ; S. is Napeague Beach (surf-bathing) ; and N. E. is 
the handet of Amagansett. 

Montauk Point is 18 - 20 M. N. E. of East Hampton, and is reached by a 
lonely road running along the line of Napeague Beach. The E. part of the town 
(including 9,000 acres) is un unfenced moor, and is used for herding cattle. On 
this tract is the reservation where dwells the poor renuiant of the Montauk In- 
dians under the Sachem Pharaoh. Long Island was, in the older days, the mint of 
the American Indians, and most of its tribes were engaged in the manufacture of 
wampum. The Montauks were the bravest and most powerful of the island 
tribes, and waged fierce wars with the continental Indians. The Sachem Wyan- 
dance ruled about the middle of the 17th century, and was an able and sagacious 
chief, who welcomed the English colonists and became their allies. There are 
many quaint legends connected with this district. Beyond Amagansett the road 
traA^erses for many M. the narrow sandy neck between the ocean and Napeague 
Bay, where millions of menhaden are caught yearly, and are used for oil and 
manure. A revenue-cutter cruises off and on in this vicinity to prevent smug- 
gling ; and 5-6 M. to the N. Gardiner's Island is seen. The most easterly point 
of L. I. is nearly insulated by Fort Pond, and is partly occupied by Great Pond, 
a sheet of fresh water covering 500 acres. On the extreme E., situated on a bluff 
over the sea, is the lofty tower which was built in 1860 for the Montauk Light, 
it is an intense fixed light, with 2 revolving glasses, and a white flash, which is 
visible for 19^ M. This superb n\echanism was sent by the French Government 
to the N. Y. Crystal Palace, and was afterward presented by France to the United 
States. The * view from the gallery is one of the finest on the coast, and includes 
Block, Gardiner's, Shelter, Fisher's, and the Gull Islands, the shores of Conn, 
and R. I., and a broad sweep of the ocean. Visitors may be accommodated at the 
small cottage near the lighthouse if in extremis; and snnuner camps are sometimes 
made in the vicinity. A pleasant excxu-sion may be had by running down in a 
sail-boat from Sag Harbor by Gardiner's Island and Napeague Bay to Montauk 
Point. 

'* Ultima Thule of this ancient isle, 

Against whose breast the everlasting surge 

Long traveUing on, and ominous of wrath 

Forever beats." 

Mks. Sigoukney. 



54 Routed. SHELTER ISLAND. 

The train runs near the Peconic River to the prosperous village of 
Riverhead {Griffin Hotel; Suffolk; L. I.), with 3 churches, 2 high- 
schools, and the county buildings of Suffolk County. The surrounding 
country is pleasant, and a few deer and trout (protected) are foimd in the 
vicinity. The line now lies near the N. shore of Peconic Bay, through the 
populous farming district which is served by the station of Janiesport. 
Station, Mattituck {Mattituck House; Odell House), among the low 
wooded hills between Peconic Bay and L, I. Sound, and well served with 
crabs from an estuary to the N. JVew Suffolk lies to the S. E. on Great 
Peconic Bay, and is a summer resort. Cutcliogue is 1 M. N. W. of the 
pleasant village of that name, which is much favored by city visitors. 
Beyond Hermitage (otherwise called Peconic) the train stops at Southold 
{Southold Hotel), a quiet and cultured hamlet which is near the Sound on 
the N. and the Bay on the S. Fishing, sailing, and driving are tlie sum- 
mer amusements here, 2 - 3 M. N. on Horton's Point is a fixed white 
light which is visible 16^ M. Crossing an arm of Greenport Harbor, the 
train reaches the terminal station at Greenport {Clark's Hotel ; Peconic ; 
Wyandmik), a thriving village with 1,819 inhabitants, 6 churches, and 2 
weekly papers. The roadstead is deep and well sheltered (by Shelter 
Island); and this was formerly one of the chief whaling ports. The cod- 
lishery employs several vessels ; and a large fleet (including also steamers) 
is used in the menhaden fishery. There are 17 factories near the village 
where the oil is extracted, after which the refuse animal matter is used 
to fertilize the fields. All manner of aquatic sports are practised by the 
numerous city guests who make Greenport their summer home. (Steam- 
ers to N. Y. and Hartford, see page 53. ) The beaches are of sand, aff'ord- 
ing still- water bathing ; and wild ducks are successfully hunted in their 
season. 9 M. E. (daily stages) down the narrow peninsula is Orient 
Point, with its great * summer-hotel (300 guests); and at Orient Village 
are 4 boarding-houses ($ 8 - 10 a week). 

Plum Gut is a narrow strait separating Orient Toint from Plum Id., which cov- 
ers 809 acres, and was bought of the Corchoug Indians in 1659. To the N. E. are 
the small Gull Ids., one of v.iiicli has a lighthouse tower 62 ft. high. Farther N. 
IE., across the deep channel called the Race, and within 4 M. of New London, 
Conn, (see Osgood's Ne^v Enrjlancl), is Fisher's hiand, 9 M. long and 1 M. wide, 
containing 4,000 acres, and used for grazing and hay crops. It was named Vis- 
sher's Id. by Adrian Bloclv, in 1614, Avas bought by Gov. Winthrop in 1644, and 
still remained in the Winthrop family in 1843. Shelter Id. (ferry from Green- 
port) is a picturesque and irregular-shored island 6 by 4 M. iu extent, with lolling 
hills, fresh ponds, and numerous deep inlets. It is being opened up as a sunnner 
retreat, and is the seat of a large Methodist camji-meeting ground. Shelter Id. 
was the home of the Manhasset Indians, and early became an appanage of the 
Earl of Stirling. Settlements were made in 1652 ; and in 1673, when, after the 
Dutch re-conquest of N. Y. City, the 3 Puritan towns on the E. of L. I. refused 
to acknowledge their authority, a Dutch fleet took this island, but was checked 
from further operations by the crossing of troops from Conn. In 1764 George 
Whitelield ]iveached here with such success that he was constrained to ask, " And 
is Shelter Island become a Patnios ? " The toAvn was incorporated in 1730, and in 



FLUSHING. Route 6. b5 

1870 had 686 inhabitants. 8 M. to the E. is Gardiner's Id., containing 3,300 
acres of uiidulatinj,' land. It was the Monchonock of tlie Indians, wlio sold it to 
Lyon Gardiner in 163'J for some rum and blankets, a gun, and a large black dog. 
Here Gardiner, a veteran of Crom well's and the Loav Countries Wars, made the 
first FiUglish settlement within the present State of N. Y. In 1640 the adjacent 
peninsula of Southold (the Indian Yennecock) was settled by men of New Haven 
and a migratory church from Hingham, and was governed by the Mosaic code, 
under Rev. John Youngs, one of the " 77 first ministers of New England, that 
first enlightened the dark regions of America with their ministry" (CorroN 
Mather). 

Shelter Island is now a favorite place of summer rest. The * Manhanset 
Il(.)usi; is a large and picturesque summer-hotel, in a park of 200 acres at the N. 
end of the island, near the quiet Bering Harbor. There are many pleasant drives 
through the rich country beyond, by groves of noble old oaks, and near deeply 
recessed arms of the sea. Broad views over land and water are alfoi'ded from the 
liills. Much water-fowl is to be found in the beaches and uplands, and fish 
abound in the bays and inlets. Shelter Island is easily reached by the steam- 
ferry from Greenport (1 M. distant), which connects with the trains and boats at 
that village. 

Oapt. Kidd was a bold N. Y. mariner, who was sent out with an armed vessel 
to chase the pirates from the coast. He succeeded, and sailed on the Advenhire 
with 150 men, to chastise the freebooters of the E. Indies. But after rounding 
the Cape of Good Hope he turned pirate himself, and cruised from the Red Sea 
to Malabar, then crossed the Indian and Pacific Oceans, rounded Cape Horn, and 
swept the W. Indies. He was captured in Boston, and was executed in London 
in 1701. Thousands of visionary men have made excavations all along the N. At- 
lantic coast in hope to find treasures that Kidd had buried ; and but a few years 
since costly operations to this end were carried on at the Dunderberg Mt., far up 
the Hudson River. Kidd landed on Gardiner's Id. after his predatory circuit of 
the world, and buried vast treasures, of which 75 ounces of gold, 633 ounces of 
silver, and large quantities of rare jewels and precious stones were recovered in 
1699 by the Earl of Bellomont, Gov. of Mass. 

6. Long Island. The Northwest Shore. 

steamboats. The Arrowsmith leaves Pier 24, E. R., and 33d St., at 9.15 A. m. 
for Whitestone, Sands' Point, Sea-Cliflf Grove, and Glen Cove, returning at 1.45 
p. M. ; and leaves Pier 24 at 5 p. m. for Whitestone, Great Neck, and Port Wash- 
ington, returning early next morning. The Seawaiihaka leaves Pier 24, E. R., at 
4 p. M. for Whitestone, Fort Schuyler, Great Neck, Sea Cliff, Mott's Dock, Sands' 
Point, Glen Cove, Glenwood, and Roslyn, returning earlv next morning. The D. 
R. Martin leaves Pier 37, E. R., and 33d St., at 4 p. m. for City Id., BayA-ille, 
Lloyd's Neck, Laurelton, Huntington, and Cold Spring, returning early next 
morning. The Osseo leaves Peck Slip, E. R., at 10.50 a. m. for Flushing and Col- 
lege Point ; and at 4 for Unionportand College Point. 

The Flushinq and N. Side R. R. runs from Himter's Point to Woodside, 3 M.; 
Winfield, 4 ; Newtown, 5 ; Flushing, 8 ; College Point, 9 ; Whitestone, 11 ; Bay- 
side, 11 ; Great Neck, 14. 

The railroad is the more expeditious route, but the steamboats will be 
preferred by tourists, as showing the interesting shores of L. I. Sound. 
Pas.sengers on these vessels can return to N. Y. the same day. 
Flushing is a cultured and wealthy village at the head of Flushing Bay, 
with 6,223. inhabitants, 8 churches, and 3 newspapers. It is famous for 
its academies, one of which (Erasmus Hall) is the oldest in the State ; 
and for its great tree-nurseries and botanical gardens. Many N. Y. mer- 
chants have villas near the village ; and the surrounding district has sev- 
eral pleasant drives. In the N. part is a monument to the soldiers who 
fell in the Secession War. Flushing was settled by English Quaker 



5C) Route?. NEW YORK TO VERMONT. 

exiles from Holland in 1G45, and was then named Vlissingen. The Cen- 
tral R. R. of L. I. passes from Hunter's Point through Flushing to 
Stewart's Purchase on Hempstead Plains and Bahylon. College Point 
is a new village of 3,(552 inhabitants, situated near the point on which 
St. Paul's College was founded, Whitestone {Whitestone Hotel) is a 
manufacturing village, near the Sound. Near Great Neck Landing is the 
Oriental House, a pleasant summer resort ; and on Sands' Point is an- 
other retired and fashionable hotel. On Wilkins Point new U. S. fortifi- 
cations are being erected, which, ■s\ith Fort Schuyler (318 guns) on the 
opposite shore, command the entrance to N. Y. from L. I. Sound. The 
steamboats for Roslyn, Cold Spring, the Soimd ports, and the Boston 
lines, after passing up the East River (see page 35), turn to the E. above 
Astoria and pass through Hell Gate (8 M. from the Battery and 8 M. 
from Throgg's Neck), with Ward's Id. on the 1. Woolsey's Point is 
then rounded on the r., and the boat passes Riker's Id. (a rendezvous for 
troops during the Secession War), Avith Flushing Bay opening to the S. E. 
Rmuiing now between College Point and Whitestone on the r. and the 
Westchester shores on the 1., the massive fortifications of Fort Schuyler 
and Wilkins Neck are passed, and the course is laid N., with the hills of 
Great Neck on the r. and Throgg's Neck on the 1. Oft' Pelham Neck are 
seen City Id. and Hart's Id. (with its correctional institutions). Passing 
a small cluster of islets on the 1. and Sands' Point lighthouse on the r., 
the steamer enters the broader waters of the Somid. 

7. New York to Vermont The Harlem Route. 

The N. Y. and Harlem R. R. was completed in 1852, and runs N. from N. Y. 
along the borders of New England to Chatham, on the Boston and Albany R. R. 
(l-'8 M.), whence the Harlem Extension R. R. runs N. to Rutland, Vermont 
(108 M.). Tlie morning mail-train from N. Y. connects through to Rutland. The 
line traverses a highly picturesque region, jtassing on the W. side of the Salisbury 
and Berkshire Hills, and ascending the valleys of the Green Mts. Fare to White 
riains. 70c. ; to Bedford, $1.20 ; to Pawling, S 2 ; to Millerton, $2.50; to Chat- 
ham Four Corners, $ 2.75. 

Stations, Grand Central Depot ; Harlem, 4 M. ; Mott Haven 4| ; Melrose, C ; 
Morrisania, 7 ; Tremont, 8 ; Fordham, 10 ; Williams' Bridge. 11 (divergence of the 
N. Y. and New Haven R. R.) ; Woodlawn, 13 ; W. Jit. Vernon, 14 ; Bronxville, 
16 ; Tuckahoe, 17 ; Scarsdale, 20 ; Hartsdale, 21 ; White Plains, 23 ; Kensico, 26 ; 
Unionville, 29 ; Pleasantville, 31 ; Chappaqua, 33 ; Mt. Kisco, 38 ; Bedford, 40 ; 
Katonah, 43 ; Goldeu's Bridge, 45 (divergence of N. Y. and Lake Mahopac R. R. 
to Somers Centre, 49 ; Lake. Mahopac, 52^) ; Purdy's, 47 ; Croton Falls, 49 ; 
Brewster's 53 ; Dykeman's, 56 ; Towner's, 59 ; Patterson, 61 ; Pawling, 65 ; S. 
Dover. 71 ; Dover Plains, 78 ; Wassaie, 82 ; Amenia, 86 ; Sharon, 88 ; Millerton, 
93 ; Mt. Riga, 97 ; Boston Corners, 100 ; Copake, 106 ; Hillsdale, 110 ; Craryville, 
112 ; Martindale, 116 ; Philmont, 120 ; Ghent, 126 ; Chatham Four Corners, 128 
(the Boston and Albany R. R. diverges to Albanv, 152 M. from N. f .). Harlem 
Extension R. R. stations, from N. Y. to Chatham, 133 M. ; Rider's Mill, 139 ; 
New Lebanon, 146 ; Lebanon Springs, 155 ; N. Stephentown, 159 ; Centre Berlin, 
162 ; Berlin, 167 ; Petersburg, 172 ; Troy and Boston R. R. Junction, 175 ; E. 
Hoosick, 178 ; Bennington, 181 ; N. Bennington, 185 ; S. Shaftsbury, 187 ; iShafts- 
bury, 192 ; Arlington, 197 ; Sunderland, 200 ; Manchester, 206 ; E. Dorset^ 211 ; 
N. Dorset, 214 ; Danby & Mt. Tabor, 218 ; S. Wallingford, 223 ; Wallingford. 226 ; 
Clarendon, 230 ; Rutland, 236 (connecting with the Central Vermont R.R.). 



FORDHAM. Route 7. 57 

The train passes out from the Grand Central Depot, and runs N. E. for 
4 M., passing many fine buildings pertaining to the educational and chari- 
table interests of the city. On the 1. are seen the Central Park, Mt. 
Morris, and the distant heights of Fort Washington. A short distance 
beyond the broad Harlem Rivei-, the N. Y. Central & Pludson River R. 
R. diverges to the 1., and the train enters the rural districts which were 
recently annexed to N. Y. City. Mott Haven is the seat of extensive 
iron and steel works ; and from Melrose a short railroad leads S. E. to 
Port Morris, on Long Island Sound. 

To the W. is the site of the old Morris mansion. In 1670, Richard Morris, an 
oflBcer of Cromwell's army, bought 3,000 acres in this vicinity ; and in 1697 this 
estate was formed into the Manor of Morrisania by his son Lewis (chief-justice of 
N. Y. and N. J., and Gov. of N.J. , 1738-46). Here were bom Lewis Morris's 
sons, — Staats, a British general and M. P. ; Richard, chief-justice of N. Y, ; 
Gouverneur, one of the most eminent statesmen of N. Y. ; and Lewis, a signer of 
the Declaration of Independence (his 3 sons were brave officers of the Continental 
army ; his grandson was killed in the assault on Monterey ; a second grandson 
commanded the Mediterranean fleet in 1S02-3; and a great-grandson, Lewis O. 
Morris, colonel of the 113th N. Y.. was killed in the battle of Cold Harbor, Va.). 
Gen. Moreau, Louis Philippe of France, and many other eminent men, received 
the munificent hospitality of this mansion. 

A picturesque region, traversed by fine roads and dotted with villas, extends E. 
to the Sound. Near the Bronx River is the grave of Joseph Rodman Drake, a 
gifted poet (author of " The Culprit Fay "), who died at the age of 25, and to 
whose memory Fitz Greene Halleck wrote the lines beginning : — 

" Green be the turf above thee, 
Friend of my better days ; 
None knew thee but to love thee. 
None named thee but to praise." 

Tremont and Fordham, the next 2 stations, have each over 2,000 in- 
habitants. E. of Fordham station is St. John's College, a flourishing 
Jesuit institution, with several buildings on 20 acres of land, 10 profes- 
sors, 77 undergraduates, and 150 students in other departments. The St. 
Joseph Theological Seminary is located here. St. Mary's Church is a 
neat Gothic structure. Near this village are the mills and estates of the 
Lorillards ; on the N. is the Jerome Skating Pond ; and about 1| M. W. 
is * Jerome Park, a fine race-course imder the care of the American 
Jockey Club. The train now runs N. near tlie Bronx River, and 1 M. 
beyond Williams Bridge passes Woodlaimi Cemetery, a broad undulating 
tract of 400 acres, which is patronized by N. Y. City families (the R. R. 
runs special trains for fimerals). 

Among the many fine monuments here is the grave of Admiral Farragut, per- 
haps the foremost officer in the history of the U. S. Navy. He was born near 
KnoxviUe, Teun., in ISOl (of Balearic parentage), and was a midshipman on the 
Essex, in 181-' . when she was captured by 2 British frigates in Valparaiso Harbor. 
Thereafter, for 48 years, he commanded various vessels of the fleet, and on April 
24, 1862, he led the squadron that passed the Rebel forts at New Orleans, de- 
stroyed the gunboats, silenced tlie batteries, and took the city. In the same year 
he attacked Vicksburg, and captured Coi-pus Christi, Sabine Pass, and Galveston. 
In l«6.j he blockaded the Mississippi from Vicksburg to New Orleans, and thus 
cut tlie Contederacy in two ; and co-operated in the capture of Vicksburg and Port 
Hudson, Aug. 5, 1864, he commanded the naval forces which passed through 
3* 



58 Route?. WHITE PLAINS. 

the fire of the Mobile forts, and aniiihilntod the powcifnl Rebel fleet in the har- 
liur. He leeeived the thanks t>t' L'ongi.'s.s in Due, ISGI ; was nuide Admiral in 
ISoG ; and in 1S07-8 was honored with tiiuniphal rei'eptions in the chief jiorts of 
the 3 continents of the Old World. He died at Purtsinouth, N. H., Aug. 14, 1870. 

The N. y. and yen- Jlarcn 11. 1!. diverges from above Williams Bridge, and 
])asscs the thriving villages of Mt . Vernon (near a large farm-school nnder Lutheran 
Deaconesses) and Now Koclielle (7>'('/(A-.s' 7/o/(7). The latter jdace has many 
beautiful villas, ami near tne siR)re of the Sound is the Xtptune House. It was 
settled by Huguenot refugees in l(it»l, after the fall of La Hochelle, and the French 
language was long used here. The State of N. Y. granted a tract of land in this^ 
town to Thomas Paine,! on which a monument has been erected to his memory. 

Station, Mainaio)iecl:, "the place of rolling stones," near \\hich (Oct. 21, 1776) 
the Delaware and Maryland troops Vteat up tTie quarters of the Queen's Rangers 
and killed and captured SO men. Rye station is near the favorite liiic Beach (Ce- 
dar Grove House) on L. 1. Sound, whence remarkable mirages are sometimes seen. 
Port Chester (De Soto Uou.^i) is a nourishing village, with 5 churches and nearly 
4,UUU inhabitants. Just beyond this station the train crosses tlie Dyram River 
and enters New England, passing on to New Haven, Hartford, Si)riughekl, Worces- 
ter, and Roston (ov to Roston by way of New Haven, New Lomlon, Stoningtou, 
and Rrovidence). See Osgood's New Enghiud. 

The Ilarleni train next crosses 2 and recrosses the Bronx River, passes 

the factories of Bronxvillc antl the great marble quarries of Tuckahoe, and 

continues on the E. of tlie Thirty Deer Ridge to Scarsdale. Vice-Presi- 

th'ut Tomiildns was a native of Scarsdale, and Cooper was a resident here. 

White Plains {Oravxiupuvi House) is a pleasant and thriving village, 

with 5 churches and the public buildings of Westchester County. Its site 

was covered with white balsam flowers, and hence the name was derived. 

To the N. and N. E. are St. Mary's Lake and Rye Pond, abounding in 

pickerel ; and S. W. of the station is Chattertou's Hill, where was fought 

the Battle of White Plains. 

After the Anglo-Hessian army had forced Washington to retire from Manhattan 
Island, he formed fortitied lines ak)ng the Bronx River from Fordham to White 
riains. Oct. 28, 1770, the hostile army, numbering LI.OOO men, advanced to at- 
tack the position at White Plains. Under cover of i.'0 guns, they thiew a bridge 
across the Bronx, and the light infantry and Hessian grenadiers attacked Chatter- 
ton's Hill. The Anu'rican artillery mowed down whole jilaloons of the assailants, 
and the Delawares, Alarylanders, and New-Yorkei-s held the hill in a hand-to-hand 
conllict. At last they were overwhelmed by numbers, and the militia were dis- 
persed by cavalry charges, uj^on whit-h the sorely i>ressed Continentals retired 
with their wounded and artillery to the lines about White Plains. Two days af- 
terward, Washington fell back to the fortified heights of North Castle, and Howe 
retired to Manhattan Island. 

Station, Kensico, between the pleasant highland towns of Mt. Pleasant 

and N. Castle. Upon the heights of the latter town, Washington led his 

weary army in retreat ; and on Mt. Misery (in the S. E.) the Huguenots 

from New Rochelle cut off and exterminated a war party of Indians. 

\ Thomas Paine was born in Enjrland. in 17.^7. and caino to America in 1774. Earlj- in 177(i 
he publislii'd II trait caJKil " Common Sense,' advociitiii!.' roinibliciin independence ; and in 
Dee. •' The Crisis ' was ijuhlisliod, be.cinning witli the words. '' Tliese are the times that try 
men s souls." This was read at tlie head of e\iMy Continental regiment, and aroused the 
drooping spirits ot the ariiiv and people. I'aino then filled several otiices in the I!. S., but 
went to France in ITiU, and" was elected to the National Convention. Alter a stormy lile in 
Euroiie, during whieh he attaeked ISurke in " The KiglUs of Man," and advocated atheism 
in "The Age of Keasivn," lie returned to New Koehelle in lSti2, and died there in ISOO. 10 
years later, Wm. Cobliett removed his remains to England. 

■2 When the train crosses the Bronx just beyond NVcjodlawn, it leaves N. Y. City, whose 
municipality includes (since recent annexations) the ;! former towns of Morrisania. W. 
!■ anus, and Kings Bridge. — bounded W. by the Hudson River, E. by the Bronx lliver, 
and N. by a line running due W. I'rom the lironz above Woodlawn. 



LAKE MAHOPAC. RoxtteJ. 59 

Tliere are many pretty lakes in North Castle, and the Connecticut line is 

quite near Kensico. A picturesque road leads S. W. to Tarrj-town, on the 

Hudson. The line now leaves the Bronx Valley and ascends light grades 

to tlie hill-villages of Unionville and Pleasantville (the latter place is 1 M. E. 

of the railroad, ou the W. slope of Bear Ridge). Fox Hill is passed on the 

1., and the train stops at Chappaqua, a rural village 3 M. S. E. of the Chap- 

paqua Sulphur Springs. Near tlie village is the farm where Horace Greeley 

was wont to seek rest and recreation when worn down by his labors. 

Horace Greeley was born at Anilierst, N. H., in ISll, and learned the printer's art 
at Poultney, Vt., })etweeu his loth and lS>th years. Going to New York in 1831. he 
started several newspapers (the Moni'nvi Post, Nenj Yorker, Jcjfersonian, and IjO(J- 
C'lhln) ; and in 1831 lie foinuled the A'nj'- York Tribune, which became one of the 
most powerful and spirited of tlie iiietr()i)olitan newspapers. It advocated the 
abolition of slavery, the elevation of tlic laboring classes, and the protection (by 
tarilf) of American manufactures. Mr. Greeley generally supported the measures 
of the Rpi)ul)lican party from its origin until iS72, altliough favoring a more ex- 
tended ajiinesty for the'Southern ytates. In 1872 lie was nominated as candidate 
for the Presidency by the Liberal Convention at (Jincinnati, and by the Democratic 
Convention at Baltimore. After a lung and bitter campaign. Grant was re-elected ; 
and soon after, worn out by toil, Mr. Greeley died near New Yorlt. He was eccentric 
in costume and manners, and h>ved the ([uiet seclusion of his farm at Chappa<iua. 
His powerful and pungent editorials made him the foremost journalist of his time. 

The train now passes on to Alt. Kisco, a flourishing village just N. of 
Kisco Lake. From Bedford station, a highway runs 4 M. S. E. to Bed- 
ford, an ancient village in a fertile vale under Aspetong Hill (which com- 
mands fine views). 

Bedford was founded by men of Bedfordshire, England, and was burned by 
British cavalry in 177H. 2 M. E. of Bedford station is the Jay mansion, where 
lived and died John Jaj', great-grandson of a fugitive Huguenot of La RocheUe, 
and grandfather of the present U. S. Minister to Austria. He was a prominent 
Revolutionary leader, of "lofty disinterestedness and unyielding integrity" ; was 
Minister to Si.ain, 1779-81 ; Secretary of State, 1784-9 ; Chief Justice of the U. 
S.; and Governor of N. Y., 1795-1801. He died at the homestead in 1829. 

Station Katonah, a modern village named after the Indian chief who 
formerly ruled this district. From Golden's Bridge, a branch R. R. runs 
7^ M. N. E., through Somers, to Lake Mahopac, a favorite summer resort. 
Visitors are accommodated at tlie * Gregory House; * Thompson's Hotel, 
300 guests, $ 18 - 25 a week ; Lake House ; and several large boarding- 
houses, Wright's, Carpenter's, Dean's, Heroy's, $ 10 - 15 a week. The lake 
is 6-8 M. in circumference, and is surrounded by a boulevard, which 
forms a fashionable driveway. Its shores are very irregular, and are 
flanked by wooded hills ; while several promontories make out into the 
water (notably Wood Point, from the S. ). Petrea Island is nearly round, 
and .is in the middle of the lake. Its abundant groves are a favorite 
resort of boating-parties. Grand and Fairy Islands are also visited. 
The water is very clear, and affords good fishing, for which a large flotilla 
of boats are kept at tlie hotels. The vicinity is thinly populated and 
rugged, and pleasant views of the lake are gained from the high hill-tops. 
Kirk Lake is near by, in the W. ; and Wixsom Hill and Pond are N. 



GO Route 7. MILLERTON. 

" The scenery around looks hard and Connectieut-esque ; but the lake is a most 
lovely sheet of water, with 3 wooded islands in its bosom, and the outline of the 
horizon is free and bold." (N. P. Willis.) A road runs N. E. 4j M., across the 
Croton Valley to Carmel, the capital of Putnam County, the seat of the Drew 
Seminary and Female College and the Raymond Collegiate Institute, and the 
birthplace of Daniel Drew. Mahopac is one of the chief of the highland lakes 
which supply N. Y. City with water by the Croton Aqueduct, of which there are 
22 within 12 M. radius. 3 M. from Mahojiac is Lake Gilead ; 10 M. S. W., and 
near Peekslcill, is Lake Mohegan ; 5 M. S. W. is Lake Osceola ; Oscawana Lake 
is about 8 M. W., among the ruggeil fligldauds ; Waccabuc Lake is 4 M. E. of 
Golden 's Bridge; and Peach Lake is 4-5 M. E. of Croton Falls. iM\ of these 
lakes are ju-ovided with summer hotels and boarding-houses. 

Beyond Golden's Bridge the main line passes Purdy's Station and Cro- 
ton Falls, and stops at Brewster's Station, a prosperous village in a lake- 
streAvn country. Near this place are the works of the Borden Condensed 
Milk Company, and in the vicinity are profitable iron-mines. Stations, 
Dykeman's, Towner's, Patterson, and Pawling (trains stop for refresh- 
ments), an important point for shipping milk, h M. E. is Mt. Tom ; and 
3 M. N. is Quaker Hill, crowned by an old Quaker meeting-house, which 
was used as a hospital in the Revolution. Beyond S. Dover the train 
reaches Dover Plains {Dover Plains Hotel), in a deep limestone valley, 
which has many singular geological formations and picturesque ravines. 
At Wassaic the scenery is fine, and is said to resemble that of Harper's 
Ferrj^ The Taghkanic Mts. on the E., and the Fishkill Mts. on the W., 
close in over the Wassaic glen. The train now reaches Amenia ( Tuttle 
Hmise), a pretty village in which is seen the Amenia Seminary (on the 1.). 
Amenia has 4 churches, and is the centre of an iron-mining district. 
Sharon Station is 3 M. from the village of Sharon, Conn. At Millerton 
the present route is intersected by the Dutchess and Columbia, Poxigh- 
keepsie and Eastern, and Conn. Western R. Rs., the latter of which runs 
E. 7 M. to the beautiful scenery of Salisbury (see Osgood's JVeio England, 
Route 20). 69 M. S. E. by this line is Hartford, the capital of Conn. 
The Harlem train now ascends among fine scenery, passing Mt. Riga and 
other Conn, peaks close at hand on the r. Boston Comer belonged to 
Massachusetts, but was separated from that State by lofty mts., and was 
the scene of many prize-fights and other evils, to remedy which it was 
ceded to N. Y. in 1853. Mt. Everett and others of the Berkshire Hills 
(Osgood's JVew England, Route 23) are now seen on the r. Copake is 
near large iron-mines, and has a blast furnace. About 5 M. N. W. is 
Copake Lake; and 2 M. E. is "that grand ravine and its wild water, 
* Bash Bish," with lofty cascades. The train runs N. and almost touches 
the Mass. boundary, then turns W. to Hillsdale, whence stages run N. E. 
across Egremont to Great Barrington, Mass. Stations, Craryville, Mar- 
tindale, and Philmont ( Vanderbilt House), a modern village, with paper, 
woollen, and carpet factories. Claverack is 5 M., and Hudson is 9 M., 
from this point. Beyond Philmont the line passes through fine scenery. 



LEBANON SPRINGS. noute.7. 61 

overlooking the Hudson River Valley and the Catskill Mts. At the ham- 
let of Ghent tlie Hudson and Boston R. R. is seen on the 1., and continues 
near the present route to the junction of both lines with the Boston and 
Albany R. R. (Osgood's New England, Routes 21 and 22) at Cliathara 
Four Corners The distance to Boston is 177 M. ; and to Albany it is 24 
M. The H and B. R. R. runs S. W. to Hiidson in 17 M. 

The Harlem Extension R. R. runs N. to Rutland, Vt., in 114 U. 
Passing several obscure rural hamlets, the train soon reaches Lebanon 
Springs (* Columbia Hall, a fashionable and elegant summer hotel ; and 
several smaller houses, comfortable and less expensive). The thermal 
si)rings at NeAV Lebanon have won an excellent reputation for their effi- 
cacy in diseases of the skin and liver. Tliere are about 24 grains of solid 
matter and 6 cubic inches of gases to each gallon of the water. The tem- 
perature is 73°, and the spring discharges 500 gallons a minute. The 
water is used mostly for bathing, and this is the only tliermal spring in 
N. Y. or New England. The village is 1,000 ft. above the sea, and is 
surrounded with picturesque scenery, and from Gilbert Hill the Hudson 
River and Catslcill Mts. may be seen. There are many fine drives in this 
vicinity, the best of which is that to Pittsfield (12-15 M. E.) by a far- 
viewing road which passes near Perry's Peak. Shorter drives are those to 
Queechy Lake and to the Shaker village. 

The Sluxker Village is 2 M. S. of tlie Springs, ami contains 5 - 600 persons, who own 
large tracts of laiiil, and are engaged In farming and in making hroonis, sieves, and 
baskets. 200,000 lbs. of herb.5, seeds, and butauicmedi(;ines are put u]) annually. 
Tlie village ;iud farms are of spotless neatness. The iShakers originated from a 
French seet which went to England in 170o, and was there joined by Ann Lee, the 
wife of a Manchester blacksmith. In 1770, after emerging from a madhouse where 
she was contined for reviling matrimony, she announced, " I am Ann, the Word," 
and socm afterward came to America and was made the " Si)iritual Head" of the 
sect. In 1780 she Converted many people of New Lebanon, and established here 
" the capital of the Shaker world, the rural Vatican which claims a more despotic 
sway over the mind of man than ever tlie Roman Pontiff assumed." The Spiritual 
Head claimed t!ie i>o\ver of working miracles, and held that Christ's coming was 
not the fulfilment of " the desire of all nations, but that the second Divine advent 
must naturally be manife.-fted in that particular object, to wit, wornan, which is 
eminently the desire of all nations." The commonwealth covenant was accepted 
in 1795, and on Mother Ann's death the government was assumed by a liierarchy 
of 2 elders and 2 ekUvsios, called the Holy Lead. They remai. ed scluded in the 
church at New Lebanon, a;)|)ointed the minor cler.,x and supervised their Scrip- 
tures, consisting of the "Holy Laws" and "Order Eook," which were dictated 
by the Recording Angel. Unlike other sects, the Shakers claim that men may 
join their sect aftei death, an<l among other illustrious posthumous members, 
they count "Washington, Lalayette, Napoleon, Tamerlane, and Pocahontas. "By 
frugality and industry they give us many useful things, but they do not produce 
what the Republic most needs, — men and women." To the E. near the Shaker 
village at Richmond P(«id (Mass.), the Shakers formerly held weird night meet- 
ings on one of tlie Berkshire Hills. Their tradition states tluit here on Mt. oinai 
they hunted Satan throughout a long summer night, and linally killed and buried 
him. Over his grave, to this day, Washington and Lafayette keep guard, mounted 
on white horses, and are seen on summer nights by those of the faithful who 
chance to pass their ancient shrine. 



G2 Routes. THE HUDSON RIVER. 

Beyond New Lebanon the train passes the rural liamlets of the towns 
of Stephentown, Berlin, and Petersburgh, with the rugged Taghkanick 
Mts. on the r. At Petershurr/h Junction it crosses the Troy and Boston 
R. R., and soon afterward enters the State of Vermont, near Bennington 
(Bennington to Rutland, see Osgood's New England, Route 27). 

8. The Hudson River. New York to Troy. 

Besides the 3 lines of tlirough steamers, tliere are many small and comfortable 
boats which ply between New York and the river-i>orts (see page 11 ; also the 
lists and time-tables suspended in the hotel-ottices). A pleasant excursion may 
be made by taking the day-boat as far as lludson (114 M.), and returning to New 
York by the express-train. The great steamboats of the through lines are the 
ni<;-st elegant river-boats in the world, and arc furnished with every appliance for 
the comfort of the traveller. Fare, s? 2 (exclusive of meals, which are well served at 
fixed prices) ; or, for the trip to West Point, Cornwall, or Newburgh and back, 
returning the same day, §1. Through tickets to Saratoga by this route, $3.50. 
The day-boats (,the C. Vihburd and Daniel D/'Cic) leave the foot of Vestry St., New 
York, at 8.30 a. m., and 23d St. 15 minutes later. They stop at Yonkers at 9.30, and 
connect in the Tappan Zee with the ferry-boat to Nyack and Tarrytown. West 
Point is reached at 11.30 ; Cornwall at 11.55 ; Newburgh at 12.15 p. M. ; Milton at 
12.55 ; Poughkeepsie at 1.10 ; Rhinebeck at 2 ; Tivoli at 2.35 ; Catskill at 3.20 ; 
Hudson at 3.40 ; and Albany at G P. M. 

The HuLhoii River Division of the N. Y. Central R. R. may be preferred to the 
boats in Avinter or in stormy weather. Trains leave the Grand Central Depot, 
and pass through the lines of i)ublic and charitable buildings in the upper city, 
with the Central Park on the 1. Beyond the Hai'lem River they diverge from the 
Harlem R. R., and follow the river and Spuyteu Duyvil Creek to the Hudson, 
whose E. bank is traversed generally all tlie way to Albany. 10-12 trains daily 
leave the old station at the corner of 30th St. and 10th Ave. (reached by the Ele- 
vated .Railway from lower New York) and run to Tarrytown, i)assing the stations 
of Manhattan, 152d St., PV,rt Washington, Inv/ood, etc. The Montreal, Chicago, 
and Pacific express trains (from the Grand Central Depot) nui at the rate of 
30-3(3 M. an hour, and make bxit few stops. They are chiefly composed of draw- 
ing-room cars ; and passengers who secure seats on the 1. side will have pleasant 
views of the river and its W. bank. Steam-ferries connect the line with the chief 
towns on the W. bank. 

Times and Fares. New York to Tarrytown, 1- 1^ hrs., 62c. ; to Poughkeepsie, 
2i-3^ hrs., $1.83; to Hudson, 3.V-6hrs., $2.28; to Albany, 4^-7^ hrs., ^3.10, 
Stations. Grand Central Depot ; Spuyteu Duyvil, 11 M. ; Riverdale, 12 ; Mt. St. 
Vincent, 13 ; Yonkers, 14^ ; Hastings, 19 ; Dobbs' Ferry, 20 ; Irvington. 22 ; 
Tarryt(jwn (and Nyack), 25 ; Scarborough, 29 ; Sing Sing, 30 ; Croton, 34 ; Cruger's, 
37 ; Montrose, 38 ; Peekskill, 41 ; Fort Montgomery, 45 ; Garrison's (West Point), 
49 ; Cold Spring, 52 ; Cornwall Station, 54 ; Dutchess Junction, 57 ; Fishkill 
(Newburgh), 58 ; Low Point, 62 ; New Hamburgh, 64 ; Milton Ferry, 69 ; Pough- 
keepsie, 73; Hyde Park, 78; Staatsburgh, S3 ; Rhinebeck, 88; Barry town, 94; 
Tivoli, 98 ; Germantown, 104 ; Livingston, 107 ; Catskill Station, 109 ; Hudson, 
114 ; Stockport, 118 ; Coxsackie, 121 ; Stuyvesant, 123 ; Schodack, 129 ; Castleton, 
133 ; E. Albany, 141^ ; Albany, 142 ; Troy, 148. 

The Hudson River takes its rise in a lofty mountain-lake, 300 M. N. of N. Y. 
City, and, descending thence through the defiles of the Adirondacks, receives the 
waters of Sehroon Lake, and breaks through the I^uzerne Mts. in a series of long 
rapids. It passes through a tumultuous course until Troy is reached, where the 
ocean-tides are met. Below this point the stream is dec[) and quiet, and is the 
avenue of an immense commerce, chiefly in lumber, coal, stone, ice, manufactured 
goods, and Western grain (in great clusters of fi'eightcd canal-boats, drawn by 
towing-steamers). The passage of the river through the Appalachian mountain- 
system at the Highlands and the long and lofty trap-dike called the Palisades are 
remarkable for their scenic effect. Many travellers prefer the Hudson to the 




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THE PALISADES. Route 8. 63 

Rhine ; and George "William Curtis says of it, " Tlie Danube has in part glimpses 
of such grandeur, the Elbe has sometimes such delicately pencilled effects ; but 
no European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such state to the sea." 
The beauties of the Hudson have been a favorite theme of American poets and 
artists ; and its ancient folk-lore has been illuminated by the genial wit of Willis 
and the beautiful language of Irving. The history of the European occupation of 
this valley covers 265 years, and until within a century it abounds in ])icturesquc 
incidents. The river was called the Shatemuc and the Mohegan by the Indians 
until its exploration by Hudson,! in September, 1()09, after which the Dutch 
named it the North River, and also the Mauritius (in comphment to Prince Mau- 
rice). The French called it Jm Riviere dcs Montagncs ; and the English finally 
applied the present name, in honor of the discoverer. 

As the great steamer passes out into the stream, a fine view is afforded 
of the harbor in the distance, — the populous shores of Jersey City and 
Hoboken on the W., and the dense lines of piers and warehouses on the 
N. Y. shore. Above Hoboken are the Elysian Fields and Castle Hill, 
crowned by the Stevens mansion; and still beyond is Weehawken, the 
scene of a fatal duel in 1805. 

Aaron Burr, Vice-President of the U. S., challenged Alexander Hamilton, a dis- 
tinguished statesman and jurist, and for 6 years Secretary of the U. S. Treasury. 
There was no pretext but political antagonism ; and Hamilton, in deference to 
the public sentiment of the time, appeared on the duelling-ground, but declined 
to fire. Burr took deliberate aim, and fatally wounded Hamilton, who died 30 
hours after, amid the mourning of the nation. "Burr lived more than 30 years, 
a fugitive, like Cain, and suffering the bitter scorn of his countrymen." 

The great Manhattan Market is seen on the r. (foot of 34th St.), below 
Weehawken; and farther up (1.) is Bull's Ferry. At Manhattanville is 
seen the Limatic Asylum ; and above this is the Deaf and Dumb Asjlum, 
on the heights of Fort Washington. Opposite the latter is Fort Lee (sec 
page 28 ); and opposite In wood (N. Y.) is the imposing and loftily situ- 
ated summer hotel, the * Palisades Mountain House (300 guests ; reached 
from Englewood, on the Northern R. R. of N. J.). Tlie * Palisades are 
2.50-600 ft. high, and extend from Hoboken to Piermont, with a con- 
tinuation along the Tappan Zee to Haverstraw and Point-no-Point, Tlie 
ridge is a basaltic trap-dike, and is but 2 M. wide in some places, sepa- 
rating the Hudson from the Hackensack Valley. Tlie summit of tlie 
precipice is thickly wooded; and it looks almost as lonely and desolate 
as the cliffs of the Saguenay. Above Inwood the mouth of Simyten 
Duyvil Creek is seen on the r. 

This stream is named after a legendary Dutch trumpeter, hurrying down Avith 
a summons to arms when New York was menaced by 900 Indians. " He took a 
hearty embrace of his stone bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim 
across in spite of the Devil (en spyt den duyvel), and dariiigly plunged into the 
stream. Luckless Anthony ! Scarcely had he buffeted half-way over, when he 
Avas observed to struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of tl'ie waters. 
Instinctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and, giving a vehement blast, 

1 Henry Hudson was a bold mariner of England who lonp labored, by Nova Zembla and 
the Siberian waters, to find a N. E. i)assage to India. In KKK) he sailed W. in the Dutch East 
India Companv s vessel, the Hnlf-Monn, coasted alon? Cape Cod and the CliesaneaVe, and 
ascended the Hndson River to the site of 'J'roy. In ](!10 lie sailed in the bark fJifcnvrri/ to 
Greenland, Labrador and IFudsons Bay. where he was seized by his inntino'is crew, aiul 
was set adrift in a small shallop, together with his son and 7 sailors. He was never heard of 
afterward. 



64 Routes. YONKERS. 

sank forever to the bottom ! . . . . Here an old Dutch burgher, famed for his 
veracity, and who had been a witness to the affair, related the melancholy affair, 
with the fearful addition (to which I am slow in giving belief) that he saw the 
Duyvel, in the shape of a huge moss-bonker (a species of inferior fish), seize the 
sturdy Anthony by the leg, and drag him beneath the Avaves." (Irvinu.) At this 
place the Indians attacked Hudson's vessel (in 1609), but were repulsed after a 
severe contlir't. The promontories of Spuyten Uuyvil were strongly fortified by 
the British during the Revolution, and it formed the S. border of the "Neutral 
Ground," — a belt of about 30 M. wide, that was incessantly swept by the raidj 
of the moss-troopers called Cow Boys and Skinners. 

2^ M. above Spuyten Dtiyvil is Riverdale, near wliich are seen tlio 
stately buildings of Mt. St. Vincent, the Mother House of the Sisters 
of Charity, a Catliolic order Avhich has 67 estaljlishnieuts in and near 
New York. The castle of Font Hill is of blue granite and has 6 battle- 
mented towers. It was built by Edwin Forrest ; but after his domestic 
troubles he sold it to the Sisters, whose clergy now occupy Font Hill. 
The spacious buildings in the rear were erected by the Sisterhood, and 
are occupied by the nuns and their young lady pupils. 1^ M, from Mt. 
St. Vincent is Yonkers (* Peahody House), a pleasant town at the mouth 
of the Neperan Rivei', with 12,733 inhabitants (in 1870), 1 daily and 3 
weekly papers, and 9 churches. There are many fine villas in the vicin- 
ity, and pleasant drives. The population is largely composed of N. Y. 
City merchants and their families. 

Yonkers occupies the site of the Indian village of Nappechamak, off which 
Hudson made his second anchorage, and bought oysters and beans from tlie 
natives ("a loving people, who attained great age"), who came out in 28 canoes. 
It lay in the domain of Colendonck, 24,000 acres in extent, which was ruled by 
the Fatroon Van der Uonck (1046-65). Much of this estate was alterwards ac- 
quired by the Philipse family, who erected a spacious stone Manor Hall near 
Yonkers, in 1682. Mary Philijjse, the beautiful heiress of this estate (and the 
heroine of Cooper's novel, " The Spy") was the first love of George Washington 
(17o6), and although he could not win her, he always remend)ered her fondly. 
She was attainted for treason after the Revolution, and her vast domains were 
sequestrated. The Manor House still stands at Yonkers (named from Yonk 
Hccr, "a young lord"), and preserves its baronial halls, quaint carvings, wain- 
scoting, and Dutch tiles. In 1777 a naval battle Avas fought off Yonkers between 
the British frigates Rose and Phoenix and a flotilla of American gunboats : and in 
177S Gist's Marylanders were driven from the place by the royalists under Tarleton 
and Simcoe. 

The Palisades opposite Yonkers are 400 ft. high, and their most pictu- 
resque point is at Indian Head, 4 M. above, opposite Hastings-upon- 
Hudson. Much Westchester marble is shipped from Hastings. At this 
point Lord Cornwallis's British army crossed the Hudson, just before 
Washington's retreat through the Jerseys. On the heights above the 
village were 2 forts, whose cannonading greatly annoyed the British ship- 
ping on the river. Near Hastings is the stately old Livingston mansion, 
which was the head-quarters of Washington and the scene of the official 
conferences about the Britisli evacuation of New York (1783). 1 M. 
above Hastings is Dohhs' Ferry (the scene of the legend of Hendrick and 
Katrina), an ancient village at the mouth of Wisquaqua Creek and below 



THE TAPPAN ZEE. Route 8. 65 

the Greenburgli Hills. It is a summer home for many citizens, and the 
view up the Tappan Zee is very attractive (especially from near the quaint 
Zion Church), The place is named for one Dobbs, a Delaware Swede of 
the 17th century, who owned this district and kept a ferry here ; and 
some years since a sharp controversy was raised by a well-sustained but 
unsuccessful attempt to change the name to Paulding. Opposite this 
place is Piermont, where a pier 1 M. long (just N. of the line between 
New York and New Jersey) projects from the W. shore to the deep-water 
channel. A branch of the Erie Railway runs thence to Suifern, 18 M. N. 
\V. ; and the Northern R. R. of N. J. passes the village on the route from 
N. Y. to Nyack. 2 M. from Piermont is the ancient village of Tappan, 
in the rich Hackensack Valley. Near this place, in 1778, Baylor's regi- 
ment of American cavalry was surprised at night by the British Gen. 
Gray, and two thirds of its men were massacred. The house (built in 
1700) which was the head-quarters of the army in 1780 is still shown ; and 
at this place Major Andre was executed, Oct. 2, 1780. At Dobbs' Ferry 
begins a beautiful lake-like widening of the river, 10 M. long and 2-5 
M. wide, Avhich has been renowned for two centuries imder the name of 
the * Tappan Zee. 

"Even the Tappan Sea in front was said to be haunted. Often, in the still twi- 
light of a summer evening, when the sea would be as glass, and the opposite hills 
would tlirow tlieir shadow lialf across it, a low sound would be heard, as of the 

steady, vigorf)US pull of oars, tliough not a boat was to bi; descried Some said 

that it was one of the whale-boats of tlie old water-gnard, sunk by the British 
ships during the war, but now pennitted to liaunt its old cruisiug-grounds ; but 
the prevalent opinion connected it with tlie awful fate of liambout Van Dam, of 
graceless memory. He was a roistering Dutchman of Spiting Devil, who, in 
times long past, liad navigated lus boat alone one Saturday the whole length of 
the Tappan Sea, to attend a quilting party at Kakiat, on tlie W. shore. Here he 
had danced and drunk until midnight, when lie entered his boat to return home. 
He was warned that he was on the verge of Sunday morning ; but he pulled off 
nevertheless, swearing he would not land until he reached Spiting Devil, if it 
took him a month of Sundays. He was never seen afterwards, but may be heard 
plying his oars, as above mentioned, being the Flying Dutchman of the Tappan 
Sea, doomed to ply between Kaldat and Spiting Devil until the day of judgment." 

There is a legend of a stout, round, Dutch-built vessel, with liigli bow and 
stern, and bearing Dutch colors, sailing up tlie harbor of New Amsterdam in the 
teetli of wind and tide, and penetrated like a cloud by tlie cannon-shot from the 
Battery. She never returned down the Hudson, but was often seen l>y the Dutch 
skippers. "Sometimes near the Pallisadoes, sometimes off Croton Point, and 
sometimes in the Highlands ; but she was never reported as having been seen 
above the Highlands. Sometimes it was by the flashes of a thunder-storHi, 
lighting up a pitchy night, and giving glimpses of her careering across Tap- 
pan Zee, or the wide waste of Haverstraw Bay Sometimes, in quiet 

moonlight nights, she would be seen under some high bluff of the Highlands, all 

in deep shadow, excepting her topsails glittering in the moonbeams Her 

appearance was always just after, or just before, or just in the midst, of unruly 
weather ; and she was known to all the skippers and voyagers of the Hudson by 
the name of the Storm Ship." Some maintained that this phantom was the 
Flying Dutchman, passed from the stormy Cape of Good Hope to more tranquil 
waters. Others held that it was Hendrick Hudson and the shadowy creAv of the 
Half-Moon, sailing to their weird revels in the Catskills. "It is said that slie 
still haunts tlie Highlands, and cruises about Point-no- Point. People who live 



66 Route S. SUNNYSIDE. 

along the river insist that they sometimes see her in summer moonlight, and 
that in a deep, still midnight they have heard the chant of her crew, as if heaving 
the lead." (Irving.) 

Passing now the classic portico of Nevis, the home of the Hamiltons 
(from Nevis, a West India Island, wlierc Alexander Hamilton was born), 
and the Renaissance mansion of Caen stone, Nnits, owned hy the Cotti- 
nets, the modern village of Irvington is seen on the r. Just N. of this 
place is * Sunnyside, the quaintly beautifiil stone mansion where Irving 
dwelt and wrote. 

This house was built in the 17th century by Wolfert Acker, a world-weary and 
cynical Dutch councillor. He inscribed over its door, "Lust in Rust" (pleawu'c 
in quiet), whence the English settlers called it "Wolfert's Roost." Jacob Van 
Tassel, the projjrictor during the Kevolutioii, was an active American partisan ; 
and the Roost was sacked and Ijurned by the British. Mr. Irving made many 
additions and enrichments to it. and named it " yunnyside." " It is said, in fact, 
to have been modellcil after the cocked hat of Peter the Headstrong, as tho 
Escurial was modelled after the gridiron of the blessed St. Lawrence." Tlie E. 
front is covered with ivy, from a slii) which Sir Y."altcr Scott gave to Irving 
at Abbotsford ; and the jdace is charmingly described in Irving's story of "Wol- 
fert's Roost." 

Washington Irving was born at N. Y. City in 1783, and died at Sunnyside in 
1859. His father was a Scotchnian, and his mother was English. He studied 
law, but did not practise, and begun to write in Ins inth year, ISO-l-G he Ava;; in 
Europe. In 1807 he imblished "Salmagundi," and in 1808, "Knickcrbockor's 
History of N. Y." The failure of a connnercird house in which his funds were 
invested injured his pccmuary position, and from 1815 to 1C32 ho lived in Eurojio, 
where, with the aid of Sir Wr.Ucr Scott, he publi.shed "Tho Sketch-Book " and 
several other works. 1826-120 lie resided in Spain, writing "The Conquest of 
Granada," "Life of Columbus," and "Legends of the Alhambra." He Avas Sec. 
of Legation at London, 1820-31 ; and after lli^5 return to N. Y. , he wrote several 
books of travels. From 1842 to 1846 he w;;s Minister ta Spain, and, after re- 
turning, revised his works, wrote biographies of Goldsmith and Mahomet, and 
closed his labors by a " Life of Waslii;-.gt(m." in 5 volumes (1855-50). He was a 
member of many European and American learned societies, and was Doctor of 
Laws of Oxford, Harvard, and Cokunbia. He never married ; and in 1846 he. 
bought the old house of Wollrrt's Roost, which was altered and amended from 
time to time until the present "Sunnyside" was finished, and there he received 
many of the eminent men of his time, including Daniel AVebstcr and Louis Na- 
poleon. He was a warm friend of Sir Waller Scott, Tom Moore, Campbell, and 
other eminent British contemporaries. Scott said of "The Sketch-Book," " It is 
positively beautiful" ; Byron speaks of " irving, Avhose writings arc my delight" ; 
Louis Napoleon said, "1 admire him both as a writer and as a man"; Bryant 
predicts "for him a deathless renown " ; Miss Mitford says, "Few, very few, can 
show a long succession of volumes so ]iure, so graceful, and so varied as Mr. 
Irving" ; and Everett (speaking of American literature) holds that "it can neAtr 
be disputed that the mild and beautifid genius of Mr. Irving Avas the Morning 
Star that led up the march of our heavenly host." 

Above, and near Sunnyside, are the mansions of Bierstadt, Wm. E. 
Dodge, Robert Hoe, Cyrus W. Field, and other leading men of N. Y. 
To the N., near the shore, is the pointed tower of Cunningham Castle, 
beyond which is the Paulding Manor, a costly marble building in Eliza- 
bethan architecture; and still farther N. is Tarrytovn {^ Cliff House ; 
Irving House ; MoWs; and several large summer boarding-houses), an 
ancient village, beautifully situated on a far-viewing hillside. There are 
many fine villas in and aliout this place (especially the Erickstan man- 



TARRYTOWN. Route 8. G7 

sion), and the views over tlie Tappan Zee are famed for their breadth and 
beauty. But this district has an interest greater than that of mere natu- 
ral loveliness, in that it is the land of Irving and of Andre. Here is 
Christ Church, of which Irving was a warden when he died. About 1^ 
M. to the S. is Sunnyside; and just N. of the village is the sequestered 
valley known of old as Slacperigh Haven, and immortalized by Irving in 
" The Legend of Sleepy Hollow." On a knoll in the valley is the quaint 
little Dutch church, built by Vedrjxk Flypsen (Pliilipse), the lord of the 
manor, in 1699, Avith bricks imported from Holland. On its spire is a 
flag-shaped vane, bearing the monogram of Flypsen ; and in the tower is 
a bell, with the inscription, " Si. Deus. Pro. Nobis. Quis. Contra. Nos. 
1685." Beyond the ancient and mossy graveyai'd is the village cemetery 
(with the costly Delavan Monument on Battle Hill), wliere, in an en- 
closure near the receiving-tomb, is the flower-adorned grave of Wasliing- 
ton Irving, overlooking Sleepy Hollow and the Tappan Zee. 

In tlie dark glen lielow the church is a bridge over the Pocantico, which stands 
near that on which Icliabod Crane was overthrown by the spectre of the headless 
horseman. From the bridge is seen Castle Philip.se, a grim and liomely old man- 
sion. The lands E. of the Tappan Zee pertained to tlie Indian Sachem Goarlus, 
and were bought in 1G80 by Frederick Pliilipse, a descendant of the Viscounts 
relyi)s, ancient Hussite nobles of Bohemia. These lands were formed into a 
baronial estate, with mansions at Sleepy Hollow and Yonkers ; and Castle Philipse 
was erected in 1683, with lines of loopholes and artillery, to serve as a rallying 
point for the tenantry in case of Indian hostilities. In 1775 the family pronounced 
against the Colonies and in favor of the Crown, and being attainted for treason, 
the estates were confiscated and sold to the tenantry. Castle Philipse was held 
by the Beekman family until ISUO. Above the Castle is the cluster of niodera 
villas called Irving Park. 

1 M. S. of the old Dutch church, Andre's Brook crosses the highAvay, near a 
marble monument 25 ft. high, erected by the i>eople of Westchester County, "as 
well to commemorate a great event as to test! y their high estimation of that in- 
tegrity and patriotism which, rejecting every temptation, rescued tlie United 
States from most imminent peril, by balHing the arts of a spy and the plots of a 
traitor." Benedict xVrnold, a brilliant and ambitious American general, was 
wounded at the Battle of Saratoga, and afterwards (in 1778) was made Military 
Governor of Philadelphia. Here he married Margaret Shippen, a fair royalist and 
a friend of the British Adj. -Gen. Andre, and lived in a state of luxury and ex- 
travagance that was only sustained by corruption and malfeasance in office. 
Of these charges he was convicted by court-martial, and was re](rimanded by 
Wasliiiigton. His proud spirit felt the disgrace so keenly that he resolved to be 
revenged upon the country, and he 0]ieiicd a secret correspondence with Sir 
Henry Clinton. Obtaining the command of tlie fortress of West Point, the key 
to the upper Hudson, he offered to surrender it to the British. Major Andr^, 
Adjutant-General of the British army, went up the Tappan Zee on the sloop-of- 
war Vulture, and landed by night near Haverstraw, where he arranged with Ar- 
nold for the surrender. But the Vulture was forced to retire by an American 
battery on Teller's Point, and Andre, attempting to go by land to New York (dis- 
guised as a citizen), was halted at this point near Tarrytown — in the Neutral 
Ground — by a squad of irregular militia. He was searched, and the papers and 
plans of the surrender were found in his stockings. Refusing the princely bribes 
that he offered them to release him, the militiamen carried him to head-quarters, 
whence he was removed to Tappan, tried before a court-martial, convicted, and 
hung as a spy (Oct. 2, 1780), amid the mourning of bf)th armies. John Andre was 
a young man of noble character, an artist, poet, and chivalric soldier, involun- 
tarily a spy, and died heroicilly, his last words being, " I pray you to bear me 
witness that I meet my fate like a brave man." He was but 29 years of age, of 



68 Routes. SING SING. 

Swiss parentage ; and in 1831 his rcniains wore removed fioni Tappan and buried 
in AVestniiiister Abbey, near the elci5ant mural monument which waii raised to his 
memory by King George III. 

Tarrytou n oteiiiiies the site of the Indian village of Alipconck (" Place of Elms "), 
and was early setlled by the Dutch, who called it Tcrwoi Dorp, or "Wheat Town," 
from its large cro] IS of that cereal. The English conquerors retained the " Tor- 
wen," and modulated it to its present name, though Irving says: "The name 
was given, we are told, in former days by tl.e good housewives of the adjacent 
countrj', from the inveterate propensity of their Imsbands to linger about the vil- 
lage taverns on market days." 

A stage leaves Tarrytown daily at 2 p. m., and passes R. E. to White Plains and 
Tort Chester. N. of Tarrytown are the mansions of Fremont and Aspinwall. 

Nearly opposite Tan-ytowu (steam ferry every lialf-hour) is Nyack-on- 
thc-IIudson, a prosperous village at the foot of tlic rugged Nyack Hills. 
Willi a population of 3,438, the viilage has 3 weekly and 2 monthly 
pa}ters, and several shoe factories. Boulevards 100 ft. wide lead to Rock- 
land Lake on tlie N. and Piernioiit on tlie S. Great quantities of milk, 
fruits, and vegetables are shijiped from this point to N. Y. The Rock- 
land Female Institute is a favorite academy located here, and its large 
hrick building, situated on a far-viewing promontory S. of the village, is 
used as a summer boarding-house, imder the name of the * Tappan Zee 
House. The Palmer (new in 1873), Smithsonian, and Clarendon Houses 
are also pojiular summer hotels. Nyack is the N. terminus of the North- 
ern N. J. R. R. N. of Tarrytown are many fine river-side villas, and the 
steamer ascends the placid Tappan Zee to Sing Sing, a large village, 
beaiitifully placed on a long upward slope. It has 4,()9G inhabitants, .5 
churches, and 2 weekly papers. There are 2 large military schools here, 
and on Higldand Avenue are several summer boarding-houses. Great 
Methodist camp-meetings are held liere annually. Sing Sing is an Indian 
name, meaning " Stone upon Stone " (or from Ossining, *' a stony place "); 
and this portion of th(! Philipse Manor v/as settled in the 17th century. 
Over a ravine at this point the Croton Aqueduct is carried on an elliptical 
arch of masonry of 88 ft. span. 4-5 M. E. of Sing Sing are the Chap- 
paqua Sulphur Springs, near the former home of Horace Greeley. 

The Sing Sing State Prison (1 of the 3 in N. Y. State) was founded about 1820, 
with a view of employing the convicts in the marble quanies. The buildings 
were erected by felons from the Auburn Prison, and stand at the foot of the 
marble ridge of 'Mt. Pleasant, | M. S. of the village (near the river), in grounds 
covering 130 acres. The main prison is 484 ft. long, and has 1,200 cells, with an 
iron foundry and manufactories of whips, saddles, shoes, furnitin-e, etc., where 
the convict labor is utilized. The female prison is to the E. on higher ground, 
and is built of marble with a classic portico. It has 108 cells, and the prisoners 
are employed in making clothing. 

Opposite Sing Sing (ferry frequent! j^) is Rockland Lake, 1 M. from and 
160 ft. above the river, and 3 M. around. It is the source of the Hacken- 
sack River, and 1,000 men are engaged during the winter in cutting and 
storing the 200,000 tons of ice which are sent hence to N. Y. every sum- 
mer (by the Knickerbocker Ice Co.). There is a large hamlet on its 



STONY POINT. Routes. 69 

mgged S. E. shore, and broad views are enjoyed from the riverward 
heights (with Torn Mt, on the N. W.). Spacious ice-houses are seen 
near the river. Just above this landing is Verdrietege Hook, or Point-no- 
Point, a bold rocky promontory at the E. end of the Ramapo Mts. Above 
&lng Sing is seen Croton Point (the Indian Senasqua ; the historic Teller's 
Point), projecting 2 M. between the Tappan Zee and Haverstraw Bay, 
and covered with rich vineyards and orchards. 

At this point the Croton River enters the Huilson. 6 M. up this river is the 
famous Croton Lake, from which N. Y. City is sui)plied with water. This 
narrow hike is 5 M. long, and is lormed by a dam 25!) ft. long, 40 ft. high, and 70 
ft. thick at the bottom. The water is conducted to N. Y. in an aiiueduct 40} M. 
long, by 16 tunnels and 'J.') bridges. The conduit is of brick, 8} ft. high and 7^ 
wide, and descends Vo\ iuchc.5 lo the M. There are white stone towers for veuti- 
lation at every M., and the daily capacity of the a(iuedu(t i.s 00,000,000 gallons. 

Near Croton Bay (where Hudson anchored the HoJf-Mooii in 1009), at tlie mouth 
of the river, is the' ancient Van Cortlandt Manor House. The Van Corilandts were 
descended from the Russian Dulces of Courlaud, and in 1097 Stephen of that ilk 
founded a broad manor on the Hudson. The manor house v/as built (about 1710) 
of heavy masonrj', with looi)holes, and it looked out on Croton Bay as it now 
does. This family took the Auiericau side at the outbreak of the Revolution, and 
gave a major-general to the army. 

The Higlilands loom up boldly in front as the steamer crosses the beau- 
tiful Haverstraw Bay to Haverstrcuc, an important village above Long- 
Clove Mt., and under a range of higli hills. N. of this point is Treason 
Hill, where, at Smith's old stone house, Benedict Arnold and John Andre 
arranged the terms of the betrayal of the Republic (Sept. 22, 1780). N. 
E. of Haverstraw (by ferry) is Cruyer^s, a R. R. station and a popular 
summer-resort at the head of Haverstraw Bay. The * Cortlandt Park 
Hotel is a new house for 150 guest.s, with line river-views and drives. 
Lakes Croton, Mahopac, and Oscawana are visited from this point. The 
riparian scenery now grows more grand and striking, and the tall High- 
lands are rapidly approached. Above Haverstraw is a line of limestone 
cliffs, which have produced 1,000,000 bushels of lime yearly ; and 2 M. 
above is Grassy Point, the seat of large brickyards (.50-60,000,000 brick 
are made in this town yearly). 1 M. farther is Stony Point (W. bank), 
a high, rocky peninsula, crowned witli ruined mounds and a lighthouse 
(on the magazine of the old fort). Opposite Stony Point is the bluff 
Verplanck's Point, with its modern village and church. 

Off the promontory called Meahagh, Hudson anchored his ship and was visited 
by crowds of astonished Highland Imlians. Ifi 1083 Meahagh was attached to 
the Van Cortlandt Manor, whose heiress, Gertrude, was married by Philip Ver- 
plauck, in honor of whom the point was named. About 1770 Fort Fayette was 
built on Verplanck's Point, and Stony Point was also fortified in oi'der to guard 
the King's Ferry and the lower gate to tlie Highlands. June 1, 1779, Sir Henry 
Clinton and Admiral Collier attacked these works. The slender garrison at Stony 
Point fell back into the Highlands without fighting, and Fort Fayette surrendered 
after being cannonaded. Washington deeply lamented the loss of such a valuable 
strategic position ; but Gen. Wayne begged ])ermission to attack and rccai)ture 
the works, saying, "General, I'll storm heU if v,oii will only plan it." Stony 
Point was garrisoned by the 17th regiment and several grenadier companies ; 



70 Routes. THE DUNDERBERG. 

Fort Fayette had an equal garrison ; and several war-vessels lay in the river. At 
midnight on July 16, having previously cut off the outer sentries, Wayne advanced 
silently along the beach with two small columns of picked uien (5th Penn. and 
Mass. Light Infantry), and carried the fort at the i)Oint of the bayonet, under a 
heavy hre of musketry and grape-shot. Wayne was shot in the head at the inner 
abatis, and shouted to his men, " March on ! carry me into the fort, for I will die 
at the head of my column." But when the Penn. and Mass. columns met in the 
centre of the works, and the roll of their cheering swept over the river, Wayne 
was strong enough to write to VVashington : " The fort and garrison, with (Jol. 
Johnston, are ours. Our officers and men behaved like men who are determined 
to be free." The British standard was struck by Lt.-Col. de Fleury (of the Mass. ' 
Light Infantry, and afterwards a marshal of France), a descendant of Cardinal 
de" Fleury, Premier of France. He received from Congress a vote of thanks and a 
medal. The Americans lost 98 men ; and the British loss was 63, besides 543 
prisoners. Wayne cannonaded Verplanck's Point all next day, but Sir Henry 
Chnton sent up reinforcements ; and, in obedience to Washington's orders, the 
Stony Point fortress was destroyed and abandoned. The galley which was con- 
veying the heavy artillery to West Point was sunk by a shot from the Vulture. 
" The assault of Stony Point is not only the most brilliant I am acquainted with 
throughout the whole course of the war, on either side, but it is the most brilliant 
that I am acquainted with in history ; the assault of Schiveidnitz, by Marshal 
Laudon, 1 think inferior to it." (Gen. Lee.) 

Pa.ssing now the gi-eat lime-kilns on the W. shore, at 3 M. from Stony 
Point is seen Caldwell's Lauding, at the foot of the ahriipt and imposing 
* Dunderborg (Thunder Mt.), which was anciently believed to be the 
home of stormy imps. 

" The captains of the river craft talk of a little bulbous-bottomed Dutch goblin, 
in trunk hose and sugar-loafed hat, with a speaking-trumpet in his hand, which, 
they say, keeps the Bonder Berg. They declare that they have heard him in 
stormy "weather, in the midst of the turmoil, giving orders in Low Dutch for the 
piping up of a fresh gust of wind, or the rattling off of another thunder-clai>. 
That sometimes he has been seen surrounded by a crew of little imjis, in broad 
breeches and short doublets, tumbling head over heels in the rack and mist, and 
playing a thousand gambols in the air, or buzzing like a swarm of flies about 
Anthony's Nose ; and that, at such times, the hurry-skurry of the storm was 

always greatest Skipi^er Daniel Ouslestickcr, of Fish Kill, who was never 

known to tell a lie, declared that, in a severe squall, he saw him seated astride of 
his bowsprit, riding the sloop ashore, full butt against Anthony's Nose, and that 
he was exorcised by Dominie Van Geisen of Esopus, who happened to be on 
board, and who sang the song of St. Nicholas, Avhereupon the goblin tlu-ew him- 
self up in the air like a ball, and went off in a whirlwind, carrying away with him 
the nightcap of the Dominie's wife, whicl\ was discovered the next Sunday 
morning hanging on the weathercock of Esopus church steeple, at least 40 M. off. 
Several events of this kind having taken place, the regular skii)iiers of the river 
for a long time did not venture to pass the Donder Berg without lowering their 
peaks, out of hoinage to the Heer of the Mts. ; and it was observed that all such 
as paid this tribute of resi)ect were suffered to pass unmolested." (Irving.) 

Some years ago ati iron cannon was found in the river off the Dunderberg (one 
of the captured British guns shipped from Stony Point, and sunk on its barge by 
a shot from the Britisli sloop-of-war Vulture). On this slender basis, a sharp 
speculator proclaimed that Capt. Kidd's pirate-ship (see page 65) was sunk at this 
point with all its treasures on board ; formed a stock conqiany and raised large 
sums of money (on the evidence of a long auger which had bored through the 
deck and brought up silver on its thread). A coffer-dam and huge pumps worked 
for months off the Dunderberg, and the ruins of the works may still bo seen. 
The originator of the scheme was enriched by it, but scores of others made heavy 
losses. 

Opposite the Dunderberg is the bright village of Peekskill {Continental 
Hotel), situated on an elevated and sheltered plain E. of Peekskill Bay. It 



THE HIGHLANDS. Route 8. 71 

has 6,560 inhabitants, 2 weekly papers, and a military school. At this 
place is a convent of Franciscan Sisters ; and near the river is the Acad- 
emy of Our Lady of Angels. To the E. is the summer home of Henry 
Ward Beecher. There is a steam-ferry to Caldwell's Lauding, under the 
Dunderberg. The village stands at the mouth of the romantic Peek's 
Kill Hollow, and affords many fine drives among the hills. 

Some time iii the 17th century Jan Peek, a Dutch mariner, was sailing up tlie 
Hudson, and taking the wrong course, entered and asftended abroad creek, whose 
fertile banks so pleased him that he named it Peek's Kill, and settled there. On 
the liigh promontory N. of the village, Foit Independence was erected during the 
Revolution, and Putnam made his head-quarters there. Large barracks and sup- 
lily-depots were at Continental Village, 3 M. N. E. among the hills ; and in Oct., 
1777, it was attacked and destroyed by Emerick's Hessian chasseurs. 2 M. E. of 
Peekskill is a later manor-house of the Van Cortlaudts, near which is the little 
old Episcopal Church of St. Peter (built 1767), with a monument in its venerable 
graveyard erected by N. Y. City to John Paulding, one of the incoiTuptible cap- 
tors of Andre. To the N. is the lofty bare ridge of Gallows Hill, which commands 
a fine view of Peekskill and the river, the Hollow, and Westchester County as far 
as Tarrytown. On the N. is Continental Village, in the rich Canopus Valley, be- 
yond which are " the rough turrets of the Higliland towers." On the summit of 
this hill was executed Lieut. Palmer, a loyalist officer of the royal army. He 
was caught in disguise within the American lines, and in answer to the demands 
of Sir Henry Clinton for his release, Putnam wrote : "Sir, — Edmund Palmer, an 
officer in the enemy's service, was taken as a spy, lurking within our lines. He 
lias been tried as a spy, condemned as a syjy, and shall be executed as a spy ; and 
the flag is ordered to depart accordingly. P. S. He has been accordingly exe- 
cuted." In March, 1777, Gallows Hill was held by the retreating garrison of 
Peekskill, when that place was captured by 12 sail of British vessels, and its 
great depots of sujjplies were burnt. 

Bending to the N. W, at Peekskill, the Hudson enters that part of its 
course called the Race, and passes through the beautiful * Highlands, 
which Chateaubriand likened to "a large bouquet tied at its base with 
azure ribbon." From Peekskill to Newburgh stretches a panorama of 
river scenery unsurpassed iu the world. Dunderberg, on the 1., confronts 
A nthony's Nose on the r. 

This bold promontory derives its name (according to Irving) from the following 
incident : " It must be knowm, then, that the nose of Anthony the trumpeter was 
of a very lusty size, strutting boldly from his countenance "like a mountain of 
Golconda, being sumptuously bedecked with rubies and other precious stones, — 
the true regalia of a king of good fellows, which jolly Bacchus grants to all who 
bouse it heartily at the flagon. Now thus it happened, that bright and early in 
the morning, the good Anthony, having v/ashed his burly visage, was leaning over 
the quarter-railing of the galley, contemplating it in the glassy wave below. Just 
at this moment the illustrious sun, breaking in all his splendor from behind a 
high bluft' of the Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon the 
refulgent nose of the sounder of brass, the reflection of which shot straightway 
down hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty sturgeon that was disporting 
beside the vessel. This huge monster, being with infinite labor hoisted on board, 
furnished a luxurious repast to all the crew, being aceouuted of excellent flavor 
excepting about the wound, where it smacked a little of brimstone : and this, on 
my veracity, was the first time that ever sturgeon was eaten in these parts by 
Christian ])eople. Wlien this astonishing nu'racle became known to Peter Stuy- 
vesant, and that he tasted of the unknown fish, he, as may well be supposed, mar- 
velled exceedingly ; and as a monument thereof, he gave the name of Anthony's 
Nose to a stout promontory in the neighborhood, and it has continued to be called 
Anthony's Nose ever since that time." 



72 Routes. FORT MONTGOMERY. 

Falling from tlie slopes of Anthony's Nose i.s the romantic Brocken Kill; 

and near the W. shore is the grape-abounding lona Island (the N. limit 

of the sea-breeze), under the Diinderberg and near the mouth of the Forest- 

of-Dean Creek. Just above and also on the W. shore is the old Poplopen 

Kill (now Fort Montgomery Creek), whose deep, tranquil current conducts 

in \ M. to clitf-environed falls. Bear Mt. is seen on the W. 

On the high promontories at tl:e mouth of this creek are some remains of Forts 
Montgomery (N.) and Clinton (S.)- In 1775 -7(>, these works were built, and a 
strong boom and an iion chain ttuated on rafts were stretched across tlie river and 
guarded by a flotilla of gunboats. This system of defences was designed to close 
the upper Hudson against the JJritish tleut. In Oct., 1777, Sir Henry Clinton and 
5,000 men advanced hitherward, and after some sharp skirmishing in the defiles 
and glens of the Dnndcrberg and about Lake Sinnii)ink, the hostile army divided 
into 2 columns, which ajJiieared before tiie forts and demanded their surrender. 
The garrisons consisted of OOi) militia, under Gens. James and Geoige Clinton. 
The British fleet openetl ui>on the works and giuiboats, and the land forces at- 
tacked with the l)ayonet. Lord Rawdon and tlie Polish Count Grabowski led the 
assault on Fort Montgomery, and the latter fell under its walls, and is now buried 
there. Putnam's Nevv-Englanders, aroused by the roaring of the artillery amid 
the Highlands, were unable to cross the river, and the remnant (if the over- 
powered garrison retired into the hills in the cloudy twilight. The fleet was 
unable to escape by reason of an adverse wind, and the vessels were burnt at the 
chccaux lie frise. " The flames suddenly broke forth, and as every sail was set, the 
vessels soon be(*ame magnilicent pyramids of tire. The reflection on the steep 
face of the opposite mt., and the long train of ruddy liglit v.hicli shone upon the 
water for a prodigious distance, hail a wonderful effect, wliile the ear was awfully 
filled Avith the continued echoes from the rocky shores, as the flames gradually 
]-eached the loaded cannons. The whole was sublimely terminated by the exjilo- 
sions, which left all again in darkness." The British loss was 140, and the Amer- 
icans lost 300 men, 100 camion, 2 frigates, and 3 smaller armed vessels. The next 
morning the victors cleared away the obstructions which liad cost Congress 
Si'JO.OOO, and had a clear way up the river (see Thackeray's "Virginians," Cliap. 
XOI.). Just S. W. of old Fort Clinton is Lake Sinnijnnk, a forest-bound sheet of 
crystal water (123 ft. above the river), from whose W. shore Bear Mt. rises sheer 
to the height uf over 1,000 ft. 31uch severe fighting occurred at the strong abatis 
by this lake, and Ihe slain soldiers were thrown into its calm dejjths, whence it 
was long called Bloody Pond. There are considerable ruins at Fort Montgomery ; 
but Fort Clinton has been razed. To the W. is the Forest of Dean, and the rugged 
mt. town of Monroe, with its many lakes. 

The river now bends to the N, E. Far in advance is the ruined height 
of Fort Putnam ; and on the r. front is the symmetrical cone of Sugar- 
Loaf Mt. Hujhland Falls are now seen on the 1., a series of white 
rapids on a brook Avhich falls 100 ft. to the river (near whicli is the 
* Cascade House). Here are large flonr-mills ; and just above is * C'ozzens* 
Hotel, a fashionable summer resort, on a high blutT, with pleasant rambles 
and drives. There is a steam-ferry from Cozzens' to Garrison's; and a 
small village is near the former. 

*West Point. 

" In this beautiful place : the fairest among the fair and lovely Highlands of 
the North River : shut in by deep green heights and ruined forts, and looking 
down upon the distant town of Newburgh along a glittering path of sunlit water, 
with here and there a skiff whose white sail often bends on some new tack as 
sudden flaws of wind come down upon her from the gullies in the hills : hemmed 
in, besides, all around with memories of Washington and events of the Revolu- 
tionary War : is the Military rfcliooi of America." (Dickens.) 



WEST POINT. Routes. 73 

In 1775, Congress ordered that the narrow passes of the Hudson slioukl be 
fortilied, and so Fort Constitution was erected, opposite West Point ; but beiag 
commanded by ailjacent hills, it was abandoned on yir Henry Clinton's advance 
in Oct., 1777. In 1778-79, West Point and its approaches were fortified with 4 
forts and 8 redoubts, and became "the (Gibraltar of America"; and a massive 
iron chain and booms were stretched across the river to Constitution Island. It 
Avas the most important post in the Union, as keeping oi)en transit to and from 
New England, and also as closing all chance of tlie British in N. Y. City for 
direct connnunication with Canachi. The various works were armed with 118 
cannon, and garrisoned by 3,086 men, in Sept., 1780, when Arnold's treason 
culminated in failure. After the war, the fortress wiis abandoned, and fell into 
ruin. In 1783, and again in 179;i, Washington recummeuded that a military 
school should be founded at W(!st Point. In 1802 it was authorized liy Congress, 
and in 1812 it went into operation. There have been about 4,000 men educated 
heie, and they have led the armies of the Republic in all her later wars. The 
great generals of the Secession War, on either side, were graduates of this school. 
Every Congressional district is entitled to send here annually one youth (physi- 
cally perfect, and grounded in elementary education), who shall devote 4 yeai-s to 
arduous academic and military studies, receiving the pay of $41. GG a month, and 
one ration daily. The graduate enters upon the rank and pay of a 2d licut. in the 
U. S. Army. The Corps of Cadets has about 250 members, who remain in camp 
during the summer (from July 20). V'arious drills and evolutions are carried on 
during the day ; but the most imposing spectacle is the evening dress-pai*ade, 
at sunset. The National Military Academy is 51 M. from N. Y. City. 

Tlie buildings of the Academy occupy a plateau 157 ft. above the river 
(W. bank), and are reached by a steep road cut along tlie cliff-side at 
great expense. The Plain is a broad plateau which is used for the evolu- 
tions of the artillery, infantry, and cavalry; and on its verge are the 
spacious buildings of the school. The Cadets' Barracks and the Academic 
Building are fine stone structures in castellated architecture; the Library 
Building has over 20,000 volumes, and in its dome is an equatorial tele- 
scope, while the towers contain a mural circle and a transit instrument. 
The Chai)el has a large chancel-picture by Prof. Weir; on the E. side are 
memorial tablets to the officers who fell in the Mexican War, and trophy 
cannon and colors taken in that war; and on the W. side are memorials 
to the generals of the Revolution, the cannons given to Gen. Greene, and 
trophy flags captured from British and German regiments. The * Museum 
of Ch'dnance and Trophies contains hundreds of models of arms and am- 
munition, cannon, horses, etc.; Rebel missiles and torpedoes; a 15-inch 
shot fired from the U. S. iron-clads into Fort Sumter, and recaptured by 
tlie U. S. army at Columbia, S. C. ; Indian trophies; a large model of the 
silver-mines of Valenciana ; Mexican flags taken in battle ; Aztec idols ; 
the eagle and drapery from the hall of the Mexican Senate; and the 
colors of the regular army in the Shawnee, British, Seminole, Mexican, 
and Secession Wars. Tlie Picture Gallery is in the Academic Building ; 
and on the 2d floor is a large collection of models of bridges, buildings, 
fortifications, parallels and redoubts, and of Fort Wagner (near Charles- 
ton) and the fortress of San Juan d'Ulloa (at Vera Cruz). Below the 
Library is the Riding Hall (used from 11 tol o'clock) ; and near the N. 
Wharf is the Sea-Coast Battery, commanding the river with an armament 
4 



74 RmteS. WEST POINT. 

of immense guns. Tlie Trophy Battery, on the Plain, looks down througli 
the Gate of the Highlands ; and here and in the vicinity are many cap- 
tured cannon, including the mortars taken by Wayne at Stony Point; 
British mortars from Saratoga ; " Le Alonarque,'" a costly gun given by 
Congress to Lafayette ; ancient Mexican artillery ; the fragments of a 30- 
pound PaiTott gun that hurled 4,606 shot into Cliarleston, S. C. ; many 
Rebel cannon, including the immense Blakely (English) guns from Hilton 
Head, Fort Morgan, Fort Pulaski, Fort Fisher, and the famous Whitworth 
gun, " Whistling Dick," from Morris Id. Also a portion of the iron 
chain that was stretched across the Hudson in 1778 ; and the field-piece 
(of Elder's Battery) that fired the last shot before Lee's surrender. On 
the N. E. angle of the Plain is Fort Clinton, a restoration of that ancient 
Fort Arnold whose name was changed when Arnold became a traitor. In 
this work is a marble column in honor of Kosciuszko ; and N. of the 
Library is the quiet terrace-garden where the noble Pole ^ was wont to 
seek meditative rest. Flirtation Walk leads from the Garden to the 
Plain. Battery Knox is S. of Fort Clinton ; and the old Chain Battery 
Walk leads thence around the bank to Gee's Point and the N. Wharf. 
Near Fort Clinton is a graceful monument to Major Dade's command, 
which was attacked by the Seminole Indians of Florida, while marching 
to relieve Fort King (in 1835), and out of 108 soldiers, 105 were massacred 
at their posts of duty. A bronze statue of Gen. Sedgwick has lately been 
erected on the parade ground ; and there is to be a memorial monument 
to the officers who fell in the Secession War. In the upper part of the 
grounds is a marble obelisk honoring Lt.-Col. Wood, who fell in the sor- 
tie from Fort Erie (Sept. 17, 1814); and near it is the Siege Battery. 
The Cemetery is over Campto^vn (soldiers' quarters), and contains many 
graves of officers, including Gens. Winfield Scott and Robert Anderson. 
The Cadets' Monument is a heavy castellated column, surmounted by an 
urn and trophies. To the S. is the jucturesque Church of the Holy Inno- 
cents, erected by Prof. Weir in memory of his children. Fort Putnam is 
a gray ruin crowning Mt. Independence, 596 ft. above the river. It was 
built in 1778 (and rebuilt in 1794), and from its lofty position was deemed 
iuqn-egnable. It was flanked on lower ground by Borts Webb and 
Wyllys, and by 3 redoubts on Rocky Hill. The *news from many 
parts of West Point are very beautiful, but those from Fort Putnam are 
the finest, including the chief peaks of the Highlands, the battery-crowned 

1 Kosciuszko was born in Poland in 1756, and was educated at the militarv academies of 
Warsaw and Paris He was sunt by Franklin to Washington, who made Iiini colonel of 
engineers (thouo;h but 20 years old). He planned Gates s iortified lines near Saratoga, and 
the fortress of West Point, and remained in the service until the close of the war. In 1793 
he raised Poland in insurrection, and defeated several Russian and l^russian armies ; Aus- 
tria then declared against him, and he was utterly defeated by 150,<KX) men at Maciejowicz, 
and fell covered with wounds, wailine, " Finis Poloniae." The Emperor Paul I. freed him 
and offered him a sword, but he sadly declined it, sayintr, " I have no need of a sword ; I 
have no country to defend." He died in Switzerland in 1817, and received a stately burial 
in Cracow Cathedral, in tiie royal vaults between Poniatowski and Sobieski. 



GARRISON'S-ON-HUDSON. Route 8. 75 

heights closer at hand, broad reaches of the briglit river, and the martial 
halls below. The view is also grand from * Roe's Hotel, a large sunmier- 
house (4-500 guests) on the N. verge of the Plain, looking out on Mt. 
Taurus and Breakneck, Cold Spring, Cro' Nest, and the city of Newlnirgh 
tinder the Shawangunk Mts. 4-5 M. S. of West Point (by a good road 
which passes Cozzen's Hotel) is Eort Montgomery; and another road runs 
S. W. 14 M. to Turaer's Station, on the Erie Railway, passing through a 
nigged and lake-strewn region abounding in fish. A rough mt.-road runs 
N. to Cornwall and Newburgh. 

Garrison's is nearly opposite West Point, and is a station on the Hudson 
R. R. R. It is a summer resort of much popularity (* Highland House, 
^3.50 a day, $18 a week; Croft House, $10-15 a week), and has pleas- 
ant drives back among the hills. Lake Oscawana, 5-6 M. E., is a pretty 
mountain-pond, 2 M. long, and is much visited in summer (several large 
boarding-houses). Over Garrison's are the N. and S. Redoubt Mts., bear- 
ing the ruins of Revolutionary fortifications. In the adjacent forest are 
the Glen Falls; and 1^ M. N. are the Indian Falls. This station com- 
mands a favorable view of West Point. 

Beverly, the mansion of Col. Beverly Robinson of the Loyalist Corps, is S. of 
Garrison's, and at the foot of Sugar-Loaf Mt. It is still preserved in its ancient 
quaintness, and is memorable as having been the liead-quarters of Arnold when 
his conspiracy was discovered. He was forced to abandon even his wife and 
child, and fled down the river in a barge driven by 6 oarsmen. He gained the 
protection of the British frigate Vulture. Near Beverly is the mansion of Ham- 
ilton Fish, Secretary of State of the U. S. since 1869. 

As the steamer bends to the N. W, about West Point, on the r. are 
seen the rugged shores of Constitution Island, with its ruined forts, 
dating from 1775, and the mansion of ''Wood Crag," the home of the 
novelist. Miss Susan Warner. Beyond this point the steamer enters 
Martlaer's Rack, or Martyrs' Reacli, a section of the river extending far 
to the N., and so named because of its trying adverse winds. Coldspring 
(E. shore) has over 3,000 inhabitants, and 6 churches; and near it is the 
West Point Foundry, an immense establishment, which supplied much 
artillery to the U. S. during the Secession War. It is managed by Capt. 
Parrott, and makes the Parrott guns, employing 5-700 men. N. of 
Coldspring is seen Underdiff, the former home of "America's best lyric 
poet," George P. Morris (died 1864). Above Undercliff is Mt. Taurus 
(1,586 ft. high), the "Bull Hill" of Irving's Legend of Dolph Heyliger. 
It is said to have been named from a certain wild bull that was once the 
terror of the country-side, x;ntil lie was hunted out, and broke his neck 
on the next hill (N.), since called Breakneck Hill (1,187 ft. high). On 
the W. bank, just above West Point, is Cro' Nest (1,418 ft. higii), whose 
river-front is a precipice several hundred ft. high, called Kidd's Plug, 
from a tradition of the burial of treasures here by Capt. Kidd : — 



76 Routes. CORNWALL. 

" Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands 
Winds throu^'h the hills afar, 
Old Cro' Nest like a monarch stands, 
Crowned with a single star." Morris. 

The scene of J. Rodman Drake's poem of "The Culprit Fay" is 
laid upon this rat. and its neighbor to the N., the picturesque * Storm 
King (1,529 ft. high). As seen from the river on the E., the latter mt. is 
symmetrically round, and suggested to the Dutch skippers a lump of, 
butter, whence they called it the Boterberg, afterwards anglicized into 
Butter Hill. Mr. N. P. Willis rechristened it Storm King, and the new 
name has become fixed. It is often ascended (with guides) from Corn- 
wall, and gives a view of 10 counties in 3 States. To the N. are the 
Taghkanick and Catskill Mts., with Newburgh and the river-villages as 
far as Crom Elbow, 26 M. distant; and to the S. are the Cro' Nest peaks 
and the main summits of the Highlands. 

Traversing the narrow channels between Storm King and Breakneck, 
the steamboat soon passes Pollopell's Island, a rocky islet whence a 
chevaux de /rise was stretched to Plum Point in 1776. To the W. are 
now seen the Shawangunk Mts., stretching N. to the blue Catskills; and 
on the N. E. are the Matteawan Mts., of which the New Beacon (a 
signal -station during the Revolution) is the chief, and commands a grand 
* view, extending even to N. Y. City. N. of Storm King is Corn-wall, a 
hamlet among the vineyards of the Highland Terrace. This is the chief 
summer resort on the river, and has the * Linden Park Hotel (in 17 acres 
of grounds), the Clark, Glenridye, and Elmer Houses, and many large 
boarding-houses. During the summer the hill-roads are traversed by 
brilliant equipages, and the river is furrowed by pleasure-boats. Over 
5,000 summer visitors stop in and about this place every year. It lies at 
the outlet of Moodua Creek (formerly called JMurderer's Creek, but thus 
euphemized by Mr. Willis). On the N. E. of the Highland Terrace is 
Idleioild, formerly the home of Willis. 

Nathaniel Parker Willis was born at Portland, Maine, in 1807, and gi-adu- 
ated at Yale Cnlle.t^e in 1S27. He travelled in Euroi)e and the East between 1S30 
and 1835, and often afterwards. From 184G to 1867 he was joint-editor of the 
Home Journal (N. Y. City), and beeaiae famous as a writer of light and graceful 
stories, essays, and letters on rural life and foreign travel. His poems have 
much sweetness and beauty, and the impress of his genius has been set on all 
the N. Highland district. Purchasing an " idle wild " of rugged land at the foot 
of Storm King, he made there a charming home, where, in 18G7, he died. 

Above the decadent village of New Windsor (near the ancient Morton 
House), the steamboat enters the broad expanse of Newburgh Bay. 
Newburgh {Orange Hotel ; U. S. Hotel; the Pavilion, a summer hotel, 
1 M. N. ) is a busy city of 17,327 inhabitants, with 3 daily papers, 3 banks, 
an excellent school system, and expensive water- works. There are 23 
churches, several of which are very attractive. The city lies upon the 
steep slope of the W. bank, and shows finely from the river. The water- 



NEWBURGH. Rotde S. 77 

front is lined with warehouses, and the city has a considerable commerce. 
Newburgli is famed for being on- of the foremost cities in the mystery 
of ice-boat sailing, and also for its professional oarsmen. On a height 
over the place is the large stone building of the Theological Seminary of 
the United Presbyterian Churcl>, which in 1870 reported 2 professors and 

9 students. The more elegant part of the city is on the plateau above the 
river, which is reached by steep streets. The city has some manufactories 
and a considerable country trade, while immense quantities of coal are 
brought here from Penn. by a branch of the Erie Railway rumiing up the 
Quassaic Valley to Greycourt, 19 M. distant, and are shipped to all parts 
of the Hudson Valley. The Newburgh and N. Y. R. R. runs to the Erie 
Railway near Turner's, and the D. and C. R. R. runs from the opposite 
shore into New England. In the S. part of the city is " Washington's 
Head-quarters," an old stone mansion which is now owned by the State, is 
preserved in its antique quauitness, and has a museum of historical relics, 
artillery, etc. (open to the public). Near the house is a mausoleum over 
the remains of Uzal Knapp, the last of Washington's Life-Guards, who 
died in 1856, aged 97 years. The Secretary of War recently sent hither 

10 Rebel, 10 Spanish, and 10 Mexican cannon. 

This mansion was built by tlie Hasbroucks, a Huguenot family, in 1750, and 
; becamo State property in 1S50. In 1782-83 it was the liead-quarters of Wasliing- 
ton while the national army lay in and above the Highlands, watching the British 
at New York. After peac.e had been declared, in 178a, the army grew discontented 
on account of not liaving been paid for many mouths ; and certain of its leaders, 
doubting the feasibility of a republic, ottered to make Washington King of Amer- 
; ica. The noble Virginian spurned this proposal ; but the anonymous " New- 
burgh Letters " were circulated among the officers, inciting them to assemble and 
enforce their rights at the edge of the sword, if necessary. To counteract this 
leaven of a military despotism, Washington convened the officers of the army at 
the Temple (;i large building erected near the Scpuire, for the military masonic 
j and religious meetings), and delivered an earnest address to them. Adjusting his 
I spectacles before the reading, he said. " You see, gentlemen, that I have not only 
j grown gray but blind in your service." The assembly was moved to tears, and 
I resolved unanimously, " That the officers of the American army view with abhor- 
j vence, and reject with disdain, the infamous pi-opositions contained in u kite 
j anonymous address to the officers of the army, and resent with indignation the 
\ secret attempts of some unknown persons to collect the officers togetlier in a man- 
ji ner totally subversive of all discipline and good order." A short time afterward 
I the unpaid Contmental army was peacefully disbanded at Newburgh. 

Hudson, passing the site of Newburgh in 1607, wrote, " It is as beautiful a land 
as .)ue can tread upon ; a very pleasant jjlace to build a town on." It was then 
occupied by a warlike clan of the Minsi (Delaware) tribe, which was defeated by 
the Dutch in the war of 1058-60. The clan was exterminated in 1663, and in 1709 
Newburgh was settled by a colony of Lutheran Germans, fleeing from Louis 
XIV. 's desolation of the Palatinate of the Rhine. It was then called "the Pala- 
tine Parish of Quassaic " ; but the Gernuins were slowly displaced, and in 1752 it 
was named " the Parish of Newburgh," from a physical resemblance to Newburgh 
in Scotland (on the river Tay). Hei'e was born John B. Wool (in 17S8), who was 
an officer of the U. S. A. from 1812 until his death, in 1869. He was made brig.- 
gen. for valuable services in the War of 1812 ; in 1846, he marched 3,000 men 900 
M. to Saltillo, and planned the positions at Bueiia Vista; and in the Secession 
War he saved Fortress Monroe by prompt action, and connnanded the Sth Corps 
of the army. Here also were born T. S. Arthur, the novelist ; Commodore Case, 
of the U. S. Navy ; A. J. Downing, the laud.-:cape gardener; and George Inness, 
the artist. 



78 Route 8. FISHKILL. 

Fishkill-on-the-IIudson is opposite Newburgh (steam-ferry), and is a 
pleasant village with about 3,000 inhabitants. 1^ M. from the Landing 
is Matteawan, a populous factory-village (near the Falls of Melsingah 
and the Rocky Glen) ; and 2 M. to the N. is a colony of African Metho- 
dists. 5 M. N. E. is the ancient handet of Fishkill {Mansion House) in 
a valley near the Highlands, with its quaint Dutch church (built in 1725) 
and the old English churcli (Trinity), which was the seat of the N. Y. 
legislature in 1776, and afterwards became an army hospital. Fishkill 
was founded before 1690, and was the chief depot of sujjplies for the Con- 
tinental army in 1777 - 80. In this vicinity are laid tlie scenes of Cooper's 
novel, " The Spy," of which Enoch Crosby, of Mass., was the hero. The 
S. Beacon II ill is ascended from Fishkill-on-the-Hudson (with a guide), 
and reveals a noble * view. The Matteawan or Fishkill Mts. extend 
along the S. line of the valley, and are penetrated by the Wiccopee Pass, 
which was held by Continental troops during the Revolution to prevent 
the British from flanking the fortress of West Point. 2 M , E. of Mattea- 
wan is Old Beacon, 1,470 ft. high, ^ M. S. of which is the Grand Sachem, 
1,680 ft. high. 

The Dulchess and Columhia R. li. runs N. E. from the junction, 1 M. S. of Fish- 
kill, to Millt'i'ton in 59 M. (3-3i^ hrs.). It asteuds the Fishkill Valley, i)a.s.sing 
MaLlcawau and Glenham, with the rugged Fishkill Mts. on the r. The train next 
crosrics the iiicturesque town of E. Fishkill ; and near the hamlet of Hopewell a 
short branch diveiges N. E. to Sylvan Lake. Beyond the rural stations among 
the rolling uplands of La Grange, the line passes Verbank, in Union Vale, and 
crosses the town of Washington. At Stissing, this route is intersected by the 
Poughkeepsie and Eastern R. R.; and the road thence curves around, througii 
Pine Plains, to the terminus at Jlillerton (see page 60). 

2 M. N. E. of Fishkill-on-the-Hudson is tlie Verplanck House, with dormer-win- 
dows and antique Dutch architei^ture. At this house, when it was the Baron 
Steuben's 1 head-quarters (17S3), the officers of the American army (then about to 
be disbanded) organized the Society of the Cincinnati, to perpetuate the memories 
and Iriendships of the Revolutionary struggle, " to preserve inviolate the rights 
and liberties of human nature," to promoLe union between the States, and to 
assist distressed officers and tlieir families. This patrician military order adoi'ted 
an elegant badge (a golden eagle, suspended from a blue and white silk ribbon), 
and its meetings were for many years attended by the chief men of the nation. 
The society was founded by Knox, its first i)resident was Washington, and it still 
exists among the gentlemen of the old school. 

The steamboat now enters the Long Reach (from Newburgh to Crom 
Elbow), and soon passes, on the W., opposite Low Point, a rocky plat- 
form which was named " the Devil's Dance-Chamber " by Hendrick 
Hudson, after seeing there a midnight pow-wow of painted Indians. 

But Knickerbocker ('Irving), describing Gov. Stuyvesant's voyage, says, " Even 
now I have it on the point of my pen to relate how his crew was most horribly 
frightened, on going on shore above the Highlands, by a gang of merry, roistei'- 
ing devils, frisking and curvetting on a huge flat rock which projected into the 
river, and which is called the Duijvell's Dans-Kainer to this very day." 

1 The Baron Steuben, nn ofFiccr of Frederick the Great, came to America in 1777, was 
made a Mai.-Gen., and iiitrodiicfd thorough disciijliiie into the army, ile was one oi tlie 
mostuselul otticersot' tlie forces, and alter I'S'i he retired to Steubenville, an estate of 
lU.OOO acres, given him by W. Y. State, where he died, in 171)4. 



POUGHKEEPSIE. Route 8. 79 

Tlie course is now to the N. E., through a less interesting country, 
rich, however, in agricultural wealth. Neio Hamburgh (E. bank) is at 
the mouth of Wappinger's Creek, and has a steam-ferry to Marlborough; 
a few M. N. of which is Milton, standing in a rocky gorge opening on the 
river, and connected with the E. shore by a ferry. These 2 hamlets are 
in a rich rural town (famed for its immense crops of raspberries), on 
whose W. border are the Marlborough Mts. 

Poughkeepsie {'^Morgan House, $3 a day) is a city of over 20,000 
inhabitants, with 6 banks, 3 daily and 3 weekly newspapers, and 24 
chiirches. The larger part of the city is built on a plateau nearly 200 ft. 
above the river, back of which are high hills. On this commanding site 
is laid the ground-jjlan of a great city, with pleasantly shaded streets, of 
which Main St. is 1^ M, long. The manufacturing interests are exten- 
sive and varied, and a lucrative trade is carried on with the adjacent rural 
towns of Dutchess County. But Poughkeepsie is chiefly famous as an 
academic city, and is the seat of Vassar College, the Poughkeepsie 
Female Academy, the Poughkeepsie Collegiate Institute, the Military 
Institute, Riverview Military Academy, Cottage Hill Seminary, East- 
man's National Business College, and St. Peter's Academies. There is a 
proudly conspicuous building, in the style of the Parthenon, overlooking 
2,500 sq. M. of country from the sunmiit of College Hill, 500 ft. high, 
and I M. E. of the city. The Collingwood Opera-House has an elegant 
hall ; the mansion of Mayor Eastman is one of the finest on the Hudson ; 
and the Memorial Fountain, erected " To the Patriot Dead of Dutchess 
County," is worthy of notice. Near the river is the manufactory of the 
Buckeye Mowers. 2 M. N. of the city, on an eminence which overlooks 
the Hudson, are the immense and imposing buildings of the * Hudson 
River State Hospital for the Insane. It has 300 acres of land connected, 
and was built in 1867-71, at a cost of $7-800,000. The Poughkeepsie 
and Eastern R. R. runs N. E. 43 M. , across Dutchess County, to Miller- 
ton (see page 60), whei'e it connects for Hartford and the E. 

* Vassar College is about 2 M. E. of Poughkeepsie (horse-cars), in a 
quiet rural vicinage. The main building is 500 ft. long, with wings and 
pavilions, and is modelled after the Tuileries palace. It is 5 stories (92 
ft.) high, has 242 bedrooms and 100 parlors, and is divided by 5 fire-proof 
walls. The porter's lodge, gymnasium, and other structures in the park 
are of harmonious architecture. The college was founded in 1861 by 
Matthew Vassar, a wealthy Poughkeepsie brewer, who endowed it with 
$400,000, and made subsequent munificent gifts. It is the foremost 
college for women in the world, and has about 400 students. 

There is a large equatorial refractor in the Observatory, and the mineral ealanets 
are well supplied. The collec^tiou of American birds is the finest in the world. 
The *Art Gallery (3d story) contains a bust and picture of Vassar, ancient weapons 



80 Routes. VASSAR COLLEGE. 

and armor, the halberd of Francis I., and 1,000 volumes on art. Here is the hest 
collection of water-colors in America, including 137 British views (castles, cathe- 
drals, etc.), hy rvgin, Lc Kcux, Mackenzie, and others ; pictures of Normandy, 
Venice, and Rome ; Hart's White Mt. sketches ; and several by Turner, one of 
which — the Pass of St. Bernard — includes a dead body in the snow by 
Stolhart, and a dog by Landseer. There are 133 oil-paintings, including Sunrise 
on Bernese Alps, Shrine of Shahespeare, Lake Maggiore, and the Roman Cam- 
pagna, by Gijt'onl ; Summer in S. America, Autumn in N. America, and EA'ening 
in Vermont, by Church; Chocorua, Lancaster (N. H.), Sunset on Mole Mt., the 
Upper Conn., Bethel (Mc), and Mt. Washington, Shattuck ; Nantasket Beach a«d 
Near Cohasset, Gay ; Home Again and N. Y. Market Scene, Gignoux; Evening at 
Paestum, Coast of Sicily, and Genevieve, Cropsey ; Lake Geoi-ge, Casilcar ; and 
pictures by Boughton, Wust, Huntington, Beard, Champney, Kensett, Bellows, 
Kichards, Weir, Martin, Mount, McEntee, Iimess, B. West, D. Wilkie, and others. 

In this city resides A. J. Davis (sometimes called "The Poughkeepsie Seer"), 
one of the founders and the most able writer of the sect of the Spiritualists ; and 
on the beautiful estate of Locust Grove. 2 M. S., lived Prof. S. F. B. Morse, one of 
the originators of the electric telegraph. After enjoying the honors and emolu- 
ments of the principal nations of Christendom, he died in 1872 at the age of 81. 
1 M. below Poughkeei)sie is the Livingston mansion, a stately house amid ancient 
trees overlooking the Hudson. It was built by Henry Livingston in 1714, and 
was cannonaded by a British frigate in 1777. Poughkeepsie was the birthplace 
of J. H. Livingston. D. D., 18 >ts. President of the College at New Brunswick ; 
Fitzhugh Ludlow, the magazinist ; and Elijah Hedding, the famous bishop of the 
Methodist Church. Late in 1873 there was laid at this point, with imposing cere- 
monies, the corner-stone of a new railroad bridge across the Hudson. The bridge 
is to be 1 M. long and 194 ft. above the water, with 5 spans of 500 ft. each over 
the channel. It is to cost $2,600,000, and is meant to afford direct and unbroken 
railroad communication between the New England coast and the Peun. coal- 
region and Western grain-fields. 

Poughkeepsie is spelt in 42 different ways on the old records and majis. It is 
derived from the Mohegan Apo-keep-sinck (" safe harbor"), which commemorates 
a legendary achievement of the ancient Indian wars. A young chief of the Pequots 
and his betrothed escaped from perilous captivities among the Delawares and 
Hurons, and fled by night to the bay before the present site of the city, where 
they moored their canoe and, with the help of gathering friends, beat off the 
tierce pursuers. It was settled by the Dutch about 1698, about the mouth of the 
Winnakee Creek, which they named the Fall Kill. Its N. promontory was called 
Slonge Klippe ("Adder Cliff"), from the many snakes found there; and the far- 
viewing S. point was Call Rock, because from thence the villagers were accustomed 
to hail passing vessels. 2 sessions of the State legislature were held here during 
the troublous times of the triple invasion of 1777-78 : and the Federal Constitu- 
tion was ratified by the State Convention here assembled in 1788. 

New Paltz Landing is opposite Poughkeepsie (steam-ferry); and 6 M. 
above is the handsome village of Hyde Park, with its 4 churches, situated 
on a hill ^ M. from the E. bank of the river (which is here valuable for its 
sturgeon-fisheries). It was named in honor of Sir Edward Hyde, an early 
colonial governor of N. Y., by his private secretary, who bought the land 
on which it was founded. Near this point the Hudson bends and nar- 
rows between high rocky bluffs. This curve was called by the Dutch 
Krom Ellehoge (crooked elbow), and still retains the name of Crom ElboAV. 
1 M. above is Placentia, the former home of James K. Paulding, the es- 
sayist, satirist, and friend of Irving, who was Secretary of the U. S. Navy, 
1839 - 41. Opposite is the great Pell farm, famous for its apples (many 
of which are sent to Europe). The river-banks are now and hereafter low 
and unmteresting, but an air of rich rural peace pervades the country- 



OVERLOOK MT. HOUSE. Route 8. 81 

side, and stalely old mansions and neat modern villas are seen on either 
hand. Passing Staatsburg and Esopus Island and Meadows (on and near 
the E, shore) the majestic blue peaks of the Catslcills are seen drawing 
nearer on the N. W. Beyond Port Ewen is Rondout {Mansion House), 
at the mouth of Rondout Creek and the N. E. terminus of the Delaware 
and Pludson Canal. These villages have large foreign populations engaged 
in the manufacture of cement and the trans-shipment of coal, which is 
bi-ought uiD over the canal in immense quantities, and is thence dis- 
tributed over the upper Hudson valley. Kingston is an ancient vil- 
lage on an elevated plain IJ M. from Rondout (horse-cars). It is the 
capital of Ulster County, and has 6,315 inhabitants, 4 newspapers, and 
3 banks. 

Tliis site was settled by the Dutch in 1663, and was named Wiltwyck. A redoubt 
was built near Rondout Creek, but the place was attacked by tlie'Esopus Indians 
soon after, and 65 persons were killed or captured. The Indians besieged the 
redoubt until it was relieved by Dutch troops from N. Y. The soldiers then made 
a sunnner campaign among the hill fastnesses, destroyed the Indian forts and 
magazines, killed many warriors, and forced the tribe to sue for peace. Soon 
afterwards the colony was augmented by a company of Huguenots. In 1777 the 
N. Y. legislature met here and framed the State Constitution ; and in October of 
that year. Sir James Wallace, with a flying squadron of light frigates, ascended 
the Hudson and anchored off the mouth of Rondout Creek. 3,600 British soldiers 
landed and marched on Kingston, then a large and wealthy place. There were 
n<> troops there, and the invaders burnt the entire village. While their homes 
were in flames the fugitive citizens tried and hung a spy, who liad been seen to 
cast something into his mouth when he was captured. A strong emetic caused 
him to throw up a hollow silver bullet, in which was a despatch from Sir Henry 
Cliuton to Gen. Burgoyne. 

The iValkill Valley R. R. runs S. W. from Rondout to Goshen (on the Erie Railway) 
in 102 M. The N. V., Kingston, and Syracuse R. R. is now finished from Rondout 
to .Stamford (74 M. ; trains in 4^-5 hrs. ; fare, $2.70). The train passes from 
Rondout to Kingston and crosses Esopus Creek. From IF. Hurley station stages 
run N. to the * Overloolc Mt. House (500 guests), which is situated on one of 
the Catskill Mts., and commands an immense view. Lake View Rock overlooks 
the lonely tarn called Shue's Lake ; and Grant Rock is a favorite view-point, from 
which are seen the Hudson and Esopus Valleys, the Berkshire Hills, and the 
Green Mts. The Pilgrim's Pass, Overlook Rock.-Poet's Glen, Pulpit Rock, and 
the Lovers' Retreat are places of interest in the vicinity. Beyond W. Hurley the 
line crosses the rugged town of Olive, and ascends the Esopus Valley to Phamicia, 
whence stages run N. E. into tb.e lofty mountain-town of Hunter. Traversing 
the defiles of Shandaken, Dean's Comers is reached, from which daily stages run 
down the Delaware Valley to Margaretville, Andes, and Delhi. Passing several 
mountain-hamlets on the great W. plateau of the Catskills, the train reaches 
Moresville, whence stages ascend the mts. to Gilboa, Prattsville, and Windham. 
(The Overlook Mt. House was burnt in 1875, but is to be rebuilt.) 

On the E. bank of the Hudson is WildercUff, the former home of a 
Maryland Episcopalian, who entered the first Methodist movement, 
preached widely, converted and married Chancellor Livingston's sister, 
and built this mansion (afterward a famous Methodist head-quarters) in 
1799. 1 M. above Wildercliff is EllersUe, the estate of the Hon. Wm. 
Kelly, with a river-front of 1| M., a finely cultivated park, and a villa 
200 ft. above the river. Opposite Rondout (steam-ferry) is Rhinebeck-on- 
the-Hudson ( PJdne Cliff House j Exchange), near which, on a high bluif, 
4* F 



82 Route 8. CLERMONT. 

is the fortress-mansion of the Beekman family, now nearly 200 years old. 
2 M. inland is Rldnebeck, Avhich was founded by Wm. Beekman in 1647, 
and was named for himself and the river of his home-land (Rhine-Beek). 
Above Rhinebeck is Rokehy, the estate of Wm. B. Astor. The mansion 
was built by his father-ui-law, John Ai-mstrong, an officer in the Conti- 
nental army, 1775 - 83 ; author of the "J^ewburgh Letters "; Sec. of State 
of Penn. (1784-85) ; U. S. Senator from N. Y. (1800-2 and 1S03-4) ; 
Minister to France (1801 - 10) ; and Sec. of War (1813 - 14). He died at 
Rokeby in 1843. Barrytoion is a river-side hamlet, from which a road 
runs E. to Red Hook, a quiet and sequestered old Dutch village. Above 
Barrytown is Montgomery Place, an elegant villa in a costly park, built 
by the widow of Gen. Montgomery, who fell m the assault on Quebec in 
1775. She was a Livingston, and died after 50 years of widowhood, leav- 
ing the estate to Edward of that ilk, M. C. from N. Y., 1795-1801; U. 
S. Dist. -Attorney, 1801-3 ; M. C. from Louisiana, 1823-29; U. S. Sena- 
tor, 1829-31; Sec. of State, 1831 -33 ; Mmister to France, 1833-35 ; 
author of the Penal Code of Louisiana ; and member of the Academy of 
France. N. of Montgomery Place is Annandale, the villa of John Bard, 
who has also erected and endowed on his estate the fine English Gothic 
building of St. Stephen's College, and the graceful stone Church of the 
Holy Innocents. The college is for educating young men for the Episco- 
pal ministry, and has 7 instructors and 60 - 70 students. 2 M. above 
Barrytown, near the E. shore, is Cruger's Island, on Avhose S. end stands 
an ancient Italian ruin, which was imported from the I\Iediterranean at 
great expense. Near by is the villa of the owner of the island. 5 M. 
above Annandale is Tirol i, near the old De Peyster mansion, whose owner 
(a Livingston) saved it from the British torch in 1777, by a liberal dispen- 
sation of choice wines from his cellar. To the E. is the antiquated village 
of Upper Red Hook ; and 1 M. N, is Madalin-on-Hudson. Opposite Tivoli 
(steam-ferry) is Saugerties, a factory-village of 3,731 inhabitants, at the 
mouth of Esopus Creek (100 M. from New York), which flows from the 
S. through scenes of placid beauty. Saugerties is from the Dutch Zaegers 
Kill (Sawyer's Creek, from an ancient saw-mill here). The impending 
peaks of the Catskills are now seen in the near W. 2 M. above Sauger- 
ties (W. shore) is Maiden, the head-quarters of the Bigelow Blue Stone 
Company, which employs 3,500 men and 35 vessels, and delivers annually 
to the cities 170-200,000 tons of flagging-stone, valued at $1,500,000. 
Nearly opposite Maiden is Clermont, Avhich was founded by Chancellor 
Livingston. 

Robert Livingston, a Scottish gentleman of the family of the Earls of Linlithgow, 
came to America in 1672, and married a lady of the Schuyler family, the widow of 
a Van Rensselaer. He lived at Albany, and bought of the Indians great tracts on 
the Hudson, which were consolidated in 1710 by the royal governor into a. manorial 
estate of 162,000 acres. He erected a mansion near the present Liulithgo, and 



HUDSON. Route S. . 83 

his son built the lower manor-house at Clermont. The third in the line was 
Robert R. Livingston, born 1747, a signer of the Declaration of Independence ; 
M. 0., 1775-77 and 1779-81 ; Sec. of Foreign Affairs, 1781 -83 ; Chancellor of N. Y. 
State, 1777 - 1801 ; and Minister to France, ISOl - 4 (procuring the cession of 
Louisiana). He introduced the mei-ino sheep into America, and was early inter- 
ested in steam navigation. In 1797 he and Nesbit built a small steamer at Tivoli, 
but it would not work, although Brunei was its engineer. While at Paris (where 
Napoleon presented him with his miniature and a gold snuff-box) he met Robert 
Fulton, and in August, 1807, these 2 gentlemen had a steamboat built at New 
York. It was named the Clerinont, and was popularly known as Fulton's Folly ; 
but the derision was changed to amazement and applause when she swung out 
from her dock and ascended to Albany against a head wind in 32 hours. In 1787 
John Fitch built and worked a steamboat at Philadelphia ; and in 1789 one h.ad 
been operated on the Clyde (near Glasgow), but both inventors had given up the 
idea of the feasibility of steam navigation. In 1777 a raiding party from the 
British army at Kingston was sent up and destroyed the Clermont manor-houses, 
but they were soon rebuilt by the family. 

Passing N. between the high bluffs that shelter the old Palatine villages 
of East and West Camp, the noble * Catskills are seen on the 1. and the 
lofty Taghkanick Mts. are in the remote E. The Catskill Mountain 
House is seen far up on South Mt,, as the .steamboat passes Cat.skill land- 
ing. (The Cat.skill Mts., see Route 9.) The Prospect Park Hotel is on 
the 1. ; and on the E. is the picturesque villa of F, E. Churcli, the artist, 
who is famous for his landscapes painted among the Andes, 

Hudson ( Worth House, $ 3 a day, on Warren St. ; Waldron House), 
the capital of Columbia County, is finely situated on a sharply defined 
plateau on the E. bank of the Hudson and at the head of sliip navigation. 
It is made a promontory by the broad and shallow N, and S. Bays. 
Warren St. is the principal thoroughfare, and extends 1^ M. from the 
Promenade — a small park on the crest of the bluff near the business 
part of the city, and overlooking the river for a great distance and the 
defiles of the Catskills and Helderbergs (10-12 M. distant) — to Pros2Ject 
Hill, a high rounded eminence 500 ft. above the river. Hudson has 8,615 
inhabitants, with 3 banks, 2 daily and 4 weekly papers, 13 churches, a 
Gray Nunnery with 250 pupils, 7 reputable private schooLs, and 2 public 
libraries. The Court House has a marble Ionic front; and near it is 
Christ Church, a tall Gothic structure of brown-stone. The Presbyterian 
church on Warren St. has a massive Saxon tower ; and the Hudson Acad- 
emy is on Academy Hill. A sliort distance S. of Hudson is Mt. Merino, 
from which may be seen the Highlands, Helderbergs, Shawangunks, 
Matteawans, Catskills, Taghkanicks, the Green Mts., the Luzerne Mts. 
at Lake George, and many leagues of the Hudson. 4 M. N. E. of Hudson, 
in the Claverack Valley, are the Columbia Sjjrings (Spring House), situ- 
ated amid pleasant rural scenery, Tlie Hudson and Chatham Branch R, 
R, runs from Hudson to Chatham Four Corners (see page 61), 17 M, N. 
E. This line passes (4 M. S. E. of Hudson) the hamlet of Claverack, 
the seat of the Hudson River Institute (5 - 600 pupils), which is situated 
on a far-viewing hill, ai\d is used in summer as a boarding-house. 



84 Routes. ATHENS. 

In 1783 a number of mercliants and sea-officers of Providence and Nantncket, 
during the decadence of commerce which foUowed the Revolution, resolved to 
emigrate to the upper Hudson country. Tliey formed an association and sent out 
a committee, who examined various places on the river, and finally chose and 
purchased the present site of Hudson (so named in 1784). It was made a city in 
1785 ; in 1800 it had 4,048 inhabitants ; and in 1805 it became the county-seat. 
The immigration from Nantucket was very large, and as a consequence, in 1786 
Hudson owned 25 A'essels (with more tonnage than N. Y. City then had). In 1790 
it became a port of entry, and 2,800 laden sleighs have entered the city, and 15 
freighted vessels have cleared in a single day. 6 vessels were kept in the S. At-« 
lantic seal-fishery ; others were in the whale-fishery, and m 1707 the American 
Hero brought here from the Pacific the largest cargo of sperm oil that had ever 
entered a U. S. port. The action of the Napoleonic wars and the embargo swept 
away the Hudson fleet, and produced great distress in the city. A well-sustained 
attempt to revive the whale-fishery resulted in a fleet of 14 shii)s owned and 
equipped here ; but the last one was sold in 1845, and since that time Hudson lins 
been called " a finished city." At present it is the seat of extensive manufactuj-es. 
which include 3 blast furnaces (by the river-side), a steam fire-engine factory, 
]«aper car-wheel works, R. R. repair-shops, carriage factories, etc. The Hudson 
and Boston R. R. runs E. to Chatham ; and a daily line of steamers descends the 
river to N. Y. Hudson was the birthplace of Wm. J. Worth (in 1794), an officer 
of the War of 1812 ; commandant at West Point, 1820-8 ; general-in-chief of the 
forces in the Florida War (1840 - 42) ; and a leading officer in the Mexican War 
(1846-48). He received 4 swords of honor. " Brave, chivalrous, and a good tacti- 
cian, his manners were popular, and his presence imposing." Here were also 
born B. M. Norman and Alice B. Haven, authors ; Judge J. W. Edmonds, the 
Spiritualist polemic ; and F. W. Edmonds, the artist. 

Opposite Hxadson (steam-ferry hourly) is Athens {Robbins House), with 
an immense terminal freight-depot of the N. Y. Central R. R. This 
town exports much hay, brick, lime, and ice, and is bounded on the W. 
by the nigged Potick Hills. Beyond the Four Mile Point lightliouse is 
Coxsackie (from the Iroquois Kuxakee, or *'Cut Banks"), a long and 
rambling village on the W. shore opposite the headland of Newtown 
Hook, and famous for its shad-fisheries. Coxsackie has 6 churches, a 
daily paper, and several factories. 

Stuyvesant Landing (E. shore) is 5 M. from the ancient Dutch inland hamlet of 
Kiiulerhook (n Dutch word meaning " Children's Point," and said to have been 
given by Hendrick Hudson on seeing crowds of Indian children watching him 
from the banks). Martin Van Buren, 8th President of the U. S., was born at 
Kinderhook in 1782. He Avas Gov. of N. Y. in 1828; Sec. of State, 1829-31 ; 
Vice-Pres., 1833-37 ; and President, 1837-41. In 1841 and 1848 he was defeated 
in the Presidential contests ; and he died in 1862, having spent the evening of 
life on his estate of Lindenwold, at Kinderhook. He opposed slavery, and ad- 
vocated the integrity of the Republic. 

New Baltimore is opposite the middle of Schodack Island, which is 3 
IVI. long and is covered with broom-corn. Here begin the national dikes 
for the improvement of navigation. Above New Baltimore (W. bank) is 
Beeren Island, on whose rocky summit once stood the castle of Rensse- 
laerstein, pertaining to Killian Van Rensselaer, the Patroon of Albany, 
and erected in 1643. The counties of Columbia, Rensselaer, Albany, and 
Greene corner on this island. The steamboat next passes the hamlets of 
Coeymans (W. ) and Schodack (E. ), and approaches Castleton. Hudson 
anchored on this reach in 1609. 



ALBANY. Route S. 85 

" One daj' more wafts him np between Schodack and Castleton ; and here he 
landcid and passed a day witli the nati\'es, greeted with all sorts of barbarous 
hospitality ; the land ' the finest for cultivation he ever set foot on ' ; the natives 
so kind and gentle, that when they found he Avould not remain with them over 
night, and feared that he left them — poor children of nature ! — because he was 
afraid of their weapons— he whose quarter-deck was heavy with ordnance! — 
they broke their arrows in pieces, and threw them in the tire." (Edward Ever- 
ett.) Schodack is from Is-cho-da, "a lire-jilain," and was the council-ground of 
the Mohegans. Here their great Sachem Aepgin sold his dominions on the E. 
bank of the Hudson to Killian Van Rensselaer (in 1680). The Mohegans origi- 
nally occupied the E. bank of the Hudson from German town to its head-waters, 
and the W. bank from Cohoes to Catskill. Tliey suffered from the attacks of the 
Mohawks and the early encroachments of the Dutch, and moved E. into Massa- 
chusetts, and afterwards went to Wisconsin. 

The Helderberg Mts. are seen on the 1. as the steamer passes Staats 
Island (with the Staats nianSion, about 200 years old), the Overslaugh 
bar, and the costly stone dikes built by the U. S. govenmjent to improve 
the navigation at this point. The immense Catholic Academy of the 
Sacred Heart is seen on the 1., on the hills over Kenwood, at the mouth 
of Norman's Kill (the Indian Tawasentha, "place of many dead") ; and 
the populous heights of Albany draw near, crowned by the Capitol, the 
Cathedral, and the City Hall. 

Albany. 

Hotels. —* Delavan House, on Broadway, near the R. R. station, $4. .50 a 
day: * Congress Hall, near the Capitol; *8tanwix Hall, alongside the station, 
fronting Broadway, ^:5 a day ; American ; City. 

Keading-Kooms. — The * State Library, at the Capitol ; the Young Men's 
A.ssociation, on S. Pearl St.; the Y. M. C. A., 40 State St., near Broadway. 

Horse-Cars. — On State St., Washington Ave., and the Bowery to W. Al- 
bany: on Pearl St. S. to Kenwood; from S. Ferry St., along Broadway, to W. 
Troy, TV M. Ferry-boats run to Greenbush. 

Kailroads. — The N: Y. Central and Hudson River, to New York, 142 M. ; 
to IJullalo, 298 M.: the Boston and Albany, to Boston, 201 M. (Osgood's New 
England, Routes 21 and 22) ; the Rensselaer and Saratoga, to Rutland, 94 M. ; 
the Albany and Susquehanna, to Binghampton, 142 M. Trains on the R. and S. 
and the N. Y. Central lines leave for Troy almost half-hourly during the day. 

Steamboats leave Albany for the Hudson River ports and N. Y. City'morn- 
ing and evening during the season of navigation. 

Albany, the capital of the State of New York, occupies a picturesque 
and commanding position on the W. bank of the Hudson River, 144 M. 
from N. Y. City. It has about 80,000 inhabitants, 62 churches, 9 banks 
and 6 savmgs-banks, 8 daily papers, and 17 masonic societies. The city 
has many manufactories ; and its commerce is large and lucrative, by 
reason of the convergence of important railroad and canal systems here 
at tide-water. Vast quantities of Western produce pass to and through 
Albany by means of the Erie Canal, which has here a great terminal 
basin, shielded by a pier 80 ft. wide and 4,300 ft. long. The river is 
spanned by a railroad-bridge of stone and iron, erected at a cost of 
.$1,150,000. The city receives its water-supply from Rensselaer Lake 
(5 M. W.) by a fine system of works which cost over $1,000,000. 



86 Route S. ALBANY. 

Broadway is a wide business street near the river; and the parallel 
streets, Pearl and Green, are also devoted to trade. State St. runs from 
Broadway, up a steep hill, to the Capitol Square, on the plateau W. of 
the city. The Old State House is a plain freestone building, which dates 
from 1807, and fronts on a park of 3 acres. Farther back is the * State 
Library, occupying a neat fii-e-proof building. There are here about 
85,000 volumes (especially rich in early American history), many pictures 
(of historic rather than artistic value), and a collection of curiosities 
which includes the original Andre papers, the MSS. of Sir Wm. John- 
son and Gov. George Clinton, the original of President Lincoln's Eman- 
cipation Proclamation, bronze medallions of 74 French monarchs (pre- 
sented by Napoleon III.), the dress-sword* of Washington (presented to 
him by Frederick William of Prussia), his pistol, rolls of family ex- 
penses, drawing and surveying instruments, and the draft of his Farewell 
Address. 

The * New Capitol is W. of the Old State House, and is being slowly 
advanced at enormous expense. It is of light-colored stone, in Renaissance 
architecture, with certain features adapted from the Louvre Palace, the 
Paris Hotel de Ville, and the Maison de Commerce at Lyons, There will 
be a grand terrace on the E., whence bold stairways will lead to the 
loggia. The inner court is 137 by 92 ft., and the tower is to be 320 ft. 
high. The building is fire-proof, and occupies the highest ground in the 
city, 170 ft. above the Hudson. It will be visible for many leagues. The 
* State Hall is an elegant building of Sing Sing marble, with an Ionic 
portico and a dome. It was completed in 1842, at a cost of % 300,000, 
and contains several important offices of the State. Near by is the City 
Hall, in classic arcliitecture, and built of marble, with a recessed Ionic 
portico above the first story. Nearly opposite is the red sandstone build- 
ing (in Italian architecture) of the old and famous Albany Academy. At 
the Bureau of Military Statistics (219 State St.; open daily to visitors) 
are many memorials of war, and also an interesting collection of the colors 
of the N. y. soldiers of the Republic in the Secession War. The State 
Geological and Agricultural Hall is on State St., and contains vast and 
valuable * collections in all departments of natural history, agi'icultural 
products and implements, ancient relics of the Indians, and the skeleton 
of the Cohoes mammoth. 

At the foot of State St. is the massive Exchange ; and to the S. on S. 
Pearl St. are the ne-vv City Buildings, in Florentine architecture, near the 
Young Men's Association Hall. The State Arsenal is a massive castellated 
buikUng in the valley at the corner of Eagle and Hudson Sts., and tlie 
State Normal School is at Lodge and Howard Sts. The Albany Medical 
College is an old and reputable institution (Eagle and Jay Sts. ), with 
large anatomical and pathological museums. The Law School is near the 



ALBANY. Routes. 87 

Medical College, and is one of the most famous legal institutions in the 
liepublic. 1^ M. S. W. of the city are the buildings of the Almshouse, 
Insane and Fever Hospitals, and Industrial Schools, all on one large farm. 
There are several other charitable institutions about Albany, and numerous 
public and private schools of high grade. On a hill in the N, part of the 
city is the Dudley Observatory, richly endowed by Mrs. Dudley, and fur- 
nished with a costly collection of astronomical instruments and books. 
The Catliolic * Cathedral of the hmnaculate Conception is a well-finished 
and costly building on Eagle St., with far-famed windows of stained glass: 
and the spacious and lofty Gothic * Church of St. Joseph, on Ten Broeck 
St., is worthy of inspection. St. Peter's Episcopal Church (corner of 
Lodge and State Sts. ) is an elegant Gothic building, with a service of 
communion-plate which was given by Queen Anne to the Onondaga In- 
dians. At the S. W. corner of the church is buried Lord Howe, who was 
killed at Ticonderoga in 1758. Several of the other churches of tlie city 
are notable either for quaintness or beauty. To the N., near Broadway, 
is the * Van Rensselaer Manor House and park, an interesting old build- 
ing on the site first occupied by Killian Van Rensselaer. Tliis gentleman 
received from the Dutch king, in 1637, a grant of 1,150 square M., em- 
bracing most of the present counties of Albany, Rensselaer, and Columbia, 
and here he ruled in feudal state. After over 200 years of this govern- 
ment, the tenants became insurrectionary, and were repressed by the 
State troops. The anti-rent troubles in 1846 led to a curtailment of the 
prerogatives of the family, but the Van Rensselaers still remain powerful 
and wealthy. The old Schuyler mansion was built in 1760, and stands on 
Schuyler St., near S. Pearl St. It was the home of Gen. Philip Schuyler, 
and was visited by Lafayette, Steuben, Rochambeau, Reidesel, and many 
other eminent officers. The Albany Rural Cemetery is N. of the city, 
near W. Troy. To the E., across tlie Hudson, is Greenhush, a busy rail- 
road suburb, back of which is the Mother House of the Sisters of Mercy. 

Albany occupies the site of the ancient Mohawk village of Seaghneghtada 
("beyond the pine-woods"), which was visited by Hudson in 1G09. In 1G12 a 
Dutch trading-jiost was founded here ; and Albany is therefore the oldest Euro- 
l)ean settlement (still inhabited) within the 13 original States. It was fortified in 
1(114, and was named Beaverwyck, from the numbers of beavers found there. In 
1G16 a trading-post and 13-gun fort was built by Corstiaensen on the island off 
Mt. Hope, and was called Fort Nassau, or the Kasteel. This work was damaged 
by a flood, and in 1023 the Dutch W. India Co. built Ft. Orange on the site of 
Albany, and settled the place with Walloons. The garrison was worsted in med- 
dling in a civil war among the Indians, and the new colony was partly abandoned. 
After their Admiral Heyn had captured tiie Spanish "Silver Fleet," the enriched 
W. India Co. resolved to extend their limits in America, and established the 
feudal order of Patroons. Broad domains, monopolies, and powers were granted 
to such of the Company as would found here a colonic of 50 vassals ; and to theiu 
was given the title of jiatroon. In 1637, Killian Van Rensselaer, a pearl- 
merchant of Amsterdam, founded and populated about Albany the domain of 
Rensselaerwyck, 48 x 24 M. in area. In 164.3, Rev. Joliannes Megapolensis erected 
a church (on Church St.) ; and in 1G47 2 large whales ascended to the Mohawk, and 



88 Route 8. TROY. 

teirifled the bm-ghers. In 1652, Gov. Stuyvesant came tip with Dutch troops 
from N. Y., and took down the feudal flag of Van Rensselaer. Meanwhile the 
colony had become tlie chief centre of the American fnr-trade, and bands of 
Indian hunters from the remotest forests brought liere the products of the cliasc. 
Sept. 10, lti64, after the fall of New Amsterdam, Carteret occupied Beaverwyck 
with a British force ; and it was tlien named Albany, in honor of James, Duke 
of York and Albany (afterwards King James II.), the proprietor of N. Y. In 
ItJOG it had GOO inhaliilauts, on 3 streets (the present State and Pearl Sts. and 
Broadway), and was surroundetl by palisades dependent on a citadel. This work 
had 4 bastions, 9 guns, an.l 150 soldiers, and occupied the site of St. Peter's 
Church (State St.). The early government was a military despotism, and the 
great councils with the Indian tribes were held here for many years. The 
burghers were plain and frugal in tlieir habits, and lived in quaint Netherlandish 
houses, whose gables faced the street. The Dutch language was predominant 
here for a century after tlui Engli.sh conquest. 

In 1686 Albany was made a city, and in 1798 it became the capital of the State. 
An inter-provincial Congress which met here in 17o4 formed such a plan of union 
for the colonies that concerted action was possible when later events required it. 
It was the centre of Revolutionary power in N. Y. alter 1776, was the head- 
quarters of the army in 1S12, and had great camps during the Secession War (at 
Greenbush, across the river). Since the completion of the Erie and Champlain 
Canals and the extensive systems of railroads which converge here, Albany has 
continued to increase in wealth and prosi)erity. It is noted for its stove-foundries, 
the N. Y. Central Railroad workshoi)s, great cattle-yards, and lumber markets (57 
firms engaged, receiving, in 1870, 452,363,000 ft. of boards, 21,588,000 shingles, and 
17,769,100 lbs. of staves). There are immense breweries here, and the Albany ale 
is famed for its excellence. The new State Capitol will be one of the finest Re- 
naissance buildings in the world, and will probably cost $15,000,000. 

Among the natives of Albiuiy were Henry Barclay, the missionary to the 
Mohawks ; Gen. Lewis Benedict, who was killed at the Battle of Pleasant Hill, 
La., in 1864 ; A. W. Bradford, the jurist ; Wm. A. Butler, the author; Gen. J. B. 
Carr, Senator Roscoe Conkling, Sir Cornelius Cuyler of the British Army, Gen. 
Peter Gansevoort ; Francis Bret Harte. the poet and humorist ; Prof. Joseph 
Henry, the scientist ; Wm. and Phili]! Livingston, the Revolutionary statesmen ; 
Wm. Page, the artist ; Peter and Philip Schuyler, Gozen Van Schaick, Abraham 
Ten Broeck, and the Van Rensselaers, all eminent nulitary officers in the earlier 
wars. 

The Boston and Albany R. R. runs S. E. from Albany to the frontier of Mass. 
in about 40 M. (and to Boston, 201 M., in S -9 hrs.). The line crosses the Hudson 
on a new and costly bridge, and passes S. through the town of Greenbush and 
near the river. Schodaelc station is 2 M. E. of Castleton landing ; and on the E. 
Bunker Hill is seen. The train descends to Kinderhook (village of Niverville), at 
the outlet of Kinderhook Lake, which is 4 M. around. Beyond Cliatham Centre 
the train reaches Clwtlmm Four Corners, whence the Hai'lem (Route 7), Harlem 
Extension, and Hudson & Boston Railroads diverge. The line runs thence to the 
N. E. by E. Chatham and Canaan (near Queechy Lake and Lelxinon Springs), and 
at State Line station enters tlie State of Mass. (State Line to Boston, see Osgood's 
New England, Routes 21 and 22). 

Troy. 

Hotels: — * Mansion House, on Washington Square ; Troy House, corner of 
River and 1st St. ; American, corner of Fulton and 3d St. ; and several smaller 
and less expensive houses near the R. R. station. 

Readiiig-Rooms. — The Young Men's Association, in the Athenaum ; the 
Catholic Library Association, 68 Congress St. Amusements at the Opera and the 
new Music Iltdl. 

Horse-Cars on Congress St. and Pawling Ave. to the suburb of Albia ; from 
River St. througli Greenbush to Cohoes ; from the Troy Iron Works on Wynant's 
Kill, by 2d, Adams, and River Sts. to Lansingburgh. A steam-ferry crosses the 
Hudson at the foot of Ferry St. ; and there are skiff-ferries at Broadway and 
Washington St. 

Steamboats leave for New York morning and evening, stoi)ping at Albany 
and several of the river ports. 



TROY. Route 8. 89 

Railroads — from the Union Depot. N. Y. Central & Hudson River, for 
Greenbush, Albany, New York, and the West; the Rensselaer & Saratoga, for 
Albany, Saratoga, and Rutland ; the Troy & Boston, lor Vermont, the Hoosac 
Tunnel, and Boston. 

Troy, the capital of Rensselaer County, is situated at the head of navi- 
gation on the Hud.son River, and is famous for its extensive manufactures. 
The greater portion of the city is on the alluvial plain near the river, and 
is crossed by the streams called Poesten's Kill and Wynant's Kill, which de- 
scend from the high bluffs to the E. The hill on the E. is called Mt. Ida (the 
source of several destructive laml-slides) ; and that to the N. E. is ^ft. Olym- 
pus. The city proper has 4G,4G5 inhabitants, and the suburb of W. Troy 
has 10,693. It has 9 banks, 5 savings-banks, 3 daily and 6 weekly papers, 
and 45 churches. The iron-works here are of great magnitude, makuig 
spikes, horseshoes, nails, stoves, engines, safes, etc. ; the Meneely foun- 
dry (at W. Troy) is famous for its bells; and in the S. part of the city are 
extensive Bessemer steel woi'ks. The car-works are the largest in the 
State, and there are manufactories of cotton and woollen goods, collars, 
hosiery, boots and shoes, paper, flour, beer, and marbleized slate. River 
St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs parallel with the Hud- 
son. The new buildings on Washington Square and the Savings-Bank on 
State St, are worthy of notice. On Seminary Park (Congress St.) are the 
classic porticos of the 1st Presbyterian Church and the County Court 
House, between which is the building of the old Troy Female Semiuais', 
founded by Mrs. Emma Willard in 1821, and for many years the leading 
school of its class in the country (having 7,000 alumnre). The Rensselaer 
Polytechnic Institute was founded by Patroon Van Rensselaer in 1824, 
and is a well-known school of mathematics and the useful arts. Its 
buildings are near 8th St., in the vicinity of the Troy Hospital (Sisters of 
Charity) and the Mary Warren Free Institute. E. of the city on Mt. Ida 
is * »S'^. Joseph's Theulofjical Seminary of the Province of N. Y., a Roman 
Catholic institution occupying the great buildings (hi Byzantine architect- 
ure) which were originally erected for the Troy University (Methodist). 
The tall round towers of the Seminary are visible for miles; and the 
* view from the Park, or from the Polytechnic Institute (above the Union 
Depot), embraces many leagues of the populous Hudson Valley, with Ti'oy 
outspread below. Horse-cars run S. E. from the Seminary near Marshall's 
Infirmary and Ida Lake to the factory-village of Albia. The Catholic 
Orphan Asylums are large buildings in the S. part of the city. There are 
several other charitable institutions here ; and the educational facilities 
are very good. Near 1st, 2d, and 3d Sts. are the best houses and the finest 
churches of the city. The cemetery has pleasant grounds, and the Gris- 
wold monument is worthy of notice. 

W. Troy has 42 manufactoiies, and is the seat of the Watervliet A rse- 
nal, a lirst-class national institution for the manufacture, storage, and 



90 Routed. THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

repair of war vmteriel and military eqiiipage. During the Secession War 
1,500 persons were employed here day and night. There are 40 buildings, 
on a park of 105 acres. The grounds are kept very neatly, and are 
adorned with trophy-batteries captured at Yorktown, Stony Point, Sara- 
toga, and other battle-tields.i 

Troy occupies an estate which was leased in 1720 from the Van Rensselaer 
Manor by Berick Vauderheyden. In 1786 the fiirm w:vs laid out as a town at the 
instance of a company of New-Englanders, by whom it was settled. In 1789 it 
contained 12 dwellings, and received from its freeholders the name of Troy, dis- 
placing the Patroon's name of Paanpaack (" a Field of Corn "). The corajiletion of 
the Erie Canal gave a great impetus to the Trojan prosperity, and the city has 
continued to grow in spite of several disastrous lires. The population in 1810 was 
3,895 ; in 1830, 11,550 ; in 1850, 28,785 ; and in 1870, 40,485. 

9. The Catskill Mountains. 

The usual avenue of api)roach is by the Hudson Uivcr. The steamboat which 
leaves N. Y. (Pier 40) at 8.;}0 a. m., arrives at Catskill at 3.20 p. m. ; and the boat 
leaving Albany at 8.30 a. m. arrives at 11 a. m. Boats leave N. Y. (from the foot 
of Franklin St.) at 6 p. m. ; and minor lines run from Catskill to Albany and New- 
burgli. Several trains daily on the Hudson River R. R. (see page 02) stop at 
Catskill Station, whence a ierry-boat crosses to Catskill. Stages run from the 
landing to the village. Stages leave Catskill daily for the chief hotels among the 
mts. (to the Catskill Mt. House, 12 M. ; fare, $2.50). The mts. are sometimes 
entered by way of Rondout and the Overlook Mt. llouse (see page 81). 

Catskill {Irving House, new and comfortable; Gunn's Hotel, neat and 
inexpensive) is about \ M. from the river, and is the capital of Greene 
County. It has 3,791 inhabitants, 5 churches, 2 banks, and 2 newspapers, 
and is the seat of a large coiuitry trade. \ M. N. is the * Prospect Park 
Hotel, a new and elegant summer hotel, situated among extensive grounds 
on a plcxteaii which commands a pleasing view. ^ M. W. of Catskill is 
the * Grant House, on a promontory over the valley, and looking across 
to the mts. The Catskill Creek flows N. W. through charming rural 
scenerj^ and the Cauterskill Valley extends to the S. near the old King's 
Road, to the High Falls, 9 M. distant. In a family mansion near the 
village lived Thomas Cole, the artist, who painted the celebrated series 
called "The Voyage of Life," and "The Course of Empire." At the 
time of his death he had on the easel a new series, entitled "The Cross 
and the World." Tlie shores of Catskill were first discovered by Hudson, 
in 1609, and here he was visited by many peaceable Indians bearing fruits 
and game, l:nit the merry Dutch marinei's amused themselves by getting 
the natives drunk. 

The Catslcill Mts., or Katzbergs, were so named by the Dutch on account of 

tlie cataniounls witli which they were infested. The Indians called them the Onti- 
(ji-ad, or Mts. of the Sky, by reason of their cloud-like appearance. Their traditions 
held that among these peaks was the treasury of storms and sunshine for the 
Hudson Valley, guarded by a powerful spirit, who made clouds and thunder- 
storms, and kept the day and the night imprisoned, letting out one at a time. 

1 In March, 1874, this artillery was advertised as about to be sold at auction for old iron. 
Such a. disposal of trophies of victory must be stigmatized as almost sacrilegious. 



CATSKILL 
MOUNTAINS. 

~1' 




1. Mountain House. 

2. Laurel Haiise. 

3. Haines House. 

4. Clifton House. 



5. Cautei'sTcill Clove. 

6. Plattekill Clove. 

7. Stony Clove. 

8. Grand Viexo Hotel. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. Route 9. 91 

She made the new moons, and cut np the old ones into stars. Many mischievous 
imps haunted the forests and dells, and lured the Indian hunters to^ places of ex- 
treme peril. The Dutch sent several expeditions to these mts. in search of gold 
and silver, in which quest they met with some success. The mountaineers of the 
present day are partly descended from the old Dutch settlers, and partly from 
the insurgents who fled from Mass. after Shays's rebellion. The highland towns 
of Greene and Ulster Counties have hundreds of small bnarding-houses, which are 
usually well filled in summer, and the district aflFords a favorite field for pedestrian 
and artistic tours. Travellers who propose to make a long sojourn here would do 
well to buy Rockwell's " The Catskill Mts." 

The main road from Catskill to the mts. leads out over the fair valley 
and crosses the Catskill Creek. 6 M. from the village the Mt. Retreat, or 
Half- Way House, is passed, and the ancient Dutch hamlet of Kiskatom 
is seen on the r. The boarding-houses of the Saxes and others are near 
the N. slope, and the road soon traverses the narrow glen which has been 
immortalized by Irving's legend of "Rip Van Winkle." The well-con- 
structed road thence ascends the mt. by many curves and galleries, sur- 
rounded by trees and cliffs. At the Rip Van Winkle House, in Sleepy 
Hollow, the road turns to the 1. and soon leads within sight of the white 
colonnades of the Mt. House. The * Catskill Mt. House accommodates 
600 guests (.$ 4.50 a day; $25-30 a week), and is situated on a broad 
rock platform on Pine Orcliard Mt., 2,212 ft. above the river. 

The ** view from this point includes an area of 10,000 .square M., in 4 States. 
" A line drawn from N. to S. through tlie sphere of vision divides it into 2 equal 
parts. The W. half is mountain, falling off in a line of rock parapet ; the E. is a 

vast semicircle of blue landscape, ^ M. lower On the horizon the Hudson 

Highlands, the Berkshire and Green Mts., unite theirchains, forming a continuous 
line of misty bhie." The Hudson and its broad valley, studded with white vil- 
lages, are outstretched below for many leagues. This view has been enthusiasti- 
cally described by some of the best American authors, and Harriet Martineau was 
more moved by it tlian by Niagara itself. The mirage, or spectral cloud reflec- 
tions, the sunrise over the Taghkanicks, and the raging of a thunder-storm, are 
objects of special interest here. 

The North Mt. commands a still broader prospect, and is often visited 
from the hotel by a path which passes the cavern called the Bear's Den. 
The South Mt. is ascended by a pleasant path that leads up by Pudding- 
Stone Hall and the Fairy Spring; and the view is over a vast area, includ- 
ing also certain peaks of N. J, A short distance back of the Mt. House 
are the two CautersJcill Lakes {QQ.ch. 1^ M. around, and abounding in fish), 
between which the road passes. An old road leads S. from the hotel to 
Moses Rock and the Grand View House. 1^-2^ M. distant (by path or 
road) is * SchutVs Laurel House (200 guests ; $ 15 - 25 a week), situated 
at the head of a deep and well-wooded ravine. Just below the house are 
the lovely * Cauterskill Falls, where the outlet of the lakes springs over 
the cliffs in two leaps, the first being 175 ft. high, and the second 80 ft. 
The natural flow of water being insufficient (especially in summer) to dis- 
play the best effect of the Falls, a dam has been built at the verge of the 
cliff, and the water is'turned on at certain times and after the payment of 
a small fee. Long stairways descend to the foot of the Fulls, and some 



92 RoideO. PALENVILLE. 

fine rugged scenery (including the * Bastion Falls, \ M. below the second 
fall) may be seen by scrambling down the ravine to the road in the Cauter- 
skill Clove (1 M. from the upper fall). Sunset Rock is 1^ M. from the 
Laurel House (by a well-defined forest-path), and overlooks the resound- 
ing ravine, High Peak and Round Top, the Hudson River and Valley, and 
the hamlet of Palcnsville. Prospect Rock is reached by a pleasant path 
leading W. 1 M. from the Laurel House. 

Palenville is 10 M. from Catskill and 4-5 M. from the Mt. House. 
It is a pleasant hamlet at the mouth of the Cauterskill Clove, and is the 
favorite resort of artists. There are several large boarding-houses here, 
and the prices are S 8 - 15 a week (Cass ; Goodwin ; Hawver ; Ward ; Peck ; 
Winantz ; Crapsey, and others). Over Palenville, on a sharp projecting 
spur of S. Mt., is the Grand View House, visible far over the valley. 
From the hamlet the wide ravine called the Cautcrsville Clove runs W. 
into the mts., and is traversed by the Hunter Turnpike. The Clove leads 
upward for 3 M. to the lofty plateau, and passes very pretty bits of brook 
scenery. Tlie High Rocks and the * Fawn's Leap Falls (fee, 25c.) are in 
this ravine; and near the head is the Haines House, where is the entrance 
to * Haines's Falls {{ec, 25c.), a fine cascade 150 ft. high, with several 
minor falls above and below. Near the bridge where the Clove road 
crosses the brook down in the glen is the peculiar rock which assumes the 
form of Washington's profile. There are several graceful cascades on the 
slopes of High Peak (1. of the road) ; and the Cauterskill may be followed 
to the r. from the road by the Bastion and Cauterskill Falls to the Laurel 
House. On the plateau near the head of the Clove are several large 
boarding-houses (Haines's; Scribner's; the Clifton, etc.). Tlie road 
passes on to the hamlets of Tannersville {Rogen's Hotel ; Mt. Home) and 
Hxmter {Breeze Laion House) ; and near Hunter a road diverges to the S. 
W. and passes down to the Esopus Valley, through Stonyj Clove, which 
abounds in trout. Hmiter is in a narrow glen which was settled by Cow 
Boys (an order of border banditti) after the Revolution. Near it is 
Hunter Mt. (4,082 ft. high), and also the sharp peak called the Colonel's 
Cliair. Stony Clove is 2 M. from the hamlet, and within its sunless 
depths ice remains throughoiit the year. The Devil's Tombstone is a 
lofty rock in this defile. Near the Clove is the sportsman's resort known 
as Gray's Hotel. Hxmter is 20 M. from Catskill and 4 M. beyond Tan- 
nersville. Farther W. are the profound glens of Lexington ; and 36 M. 
W. of Catskill is the thriving village of Prattsville (2 inns), near the far- 
viewing Pratt's Rocks (on which are cut busts of the Pratts, who founded 
the town). A road leads up the valley from Catskill to Cairo (10 M.), and 
S. Durham (16 M. ), and then crosses the mts. to Witidham (26 M.), a lofty 
town Avhose hamlets receive many summer visitors. ■ 

The Plattekill Clove is 6 M. S. of the Cauterskill Clove, and may be 



ALBANY TO MONTREAL. Route 10. 93 

entered from the plains of Saugerties by a road running along the foot of 
the nits, from Palenville, or from the plateau near Tannersville. It is a 
deep descending gorge between massive cliffs, and is traversed by a falling 
brook and a rugged road. On the N. are High Peak and Round Top ; 
and on the S. is the Overlook Mt. (see page 81). Dibble's House is in 
this Clove, 8 M. from Hunter, and is near the Black Chasm Falls, which 
ai'e 300 ft. high. 

* High Peak is the most prominent object in all this region, and is 
often ascended, even by ladies. The path is rugged and long, and begins 
near Haines's Falls. The * view from the summit (3,804: ft. high) is said 
to be the most extensive in this region. Next S. E. of High Peak is the 
symmetrical B.ound Top (3,718 ft. high) ; and these two summits are isolated 
from the others of the range by the deep passes of the Cauterskill and 
Plattekill Cloves. Blackliead is a steep and symmetrical peak 5-6 M. N. 
of the Mt. House. There remain several hundred square miles in Ulster 
and Greene Counties, explored but unchronicled, tliinly inhabited, and 
covered with tall and nameless mts. ; adorned with lofty cascades, clothed 
with primeval forests, and traversed by many picturesque trout-streams. 



10. Albany to Montreal. 

The most direct route is by the Rensselaer and Saratoga R. R. to Rutland, and 
thence N. by the Central Vermont R. R. Drawing-room and sleeping (^ai-s are 
attached to the through trains, and the line traverses an interesting and pictur- 
esque country. Summer tourists, to whom time is no object, will prefer the way 
by Lakes George and Chami)lain (Routes 11 and 12), or by Lake Chamjilain alone, 
taking the steamer at Whitehall. (A new railroad is beiiig built from Whitehall 
along the W. shore of Lake Chami)lain to Montreal, and will probably 1)e o]tened 
to travel in 1875). Fares, Albany to Saratoga, §1.10 ; to Lake Cham plain (White- 
hall), $2.45 ; to Rutland, $3.65. 

Stations, Albany ; Cemetery, 4 M. ; W. Troy, 6 ; Cohoes, 9 ; Waterford, 11 : 
Junction, 12 (here the Albany Division joins the main line, coming from Troy, 6 
M. distant) ; Meclianicsville, 18 ; Round Lake, 24 ; Ballaton, 32 ; Saratoga, 38 ; 
Gansevoort's, 49 ; Moreau, 54 ; Fort Edward, 55 (branch to Glen's Falls, inC M.) ; 
Dunham's Basin, 58 ; Sn)ith's Basin, 63 ; Fort Ann, 67 ; Comstock's. 71 : White- 
liall (Junction, 77 ; I^ake Champlain, 79) ; Fairhavcn, 85 ; Hvdeville, 88 ; Castle- 
ton, 95 ; W. Rutland, 102 ; Centre Rutland, 104 ; Rutland, 106. Stations on the 
Central Vermont R. R. Rutland, li)6 M. from Albany ; Sutherland Falls, 113 ; 
Pittsford, 116 : Brandon, 123 ; Leicester Junction, 128 ; Salisbury, 133 ; Middle- 
bury, 139 ; Brooksville, 143 ; New Haven, 147 ; Vergennes, 153 ; Ferrisburgh, 155 ; 
N. Ferrisburgh, 158 ; Charlotte, 162 ; Shelburne, 167 : Burlington, 174 ; Winooski, 
177 ; Essex Junction. 182 ; Colchester, 180 ; Milton, 193 ; Georgia, 197 ; St. Albans, 
207 ; St. Johns, 250 ; Montreal, 277. 

The S. terminus of the R. & S. R. R. is at Troy, and trains from Al- 
bany connect with the main line at Albany Junction. The line passes 
the large lumber docks near the outlet of the Erie Canal, and then runs 
N. by the beautiful Albany Rural Cemetery to W. Troy, with tlie great 
city of Troy on the E., over which are the towers of St. Joseph's Semi- 
nary (see page 89). The Mohawk River is crossed at Cohoes, a prosperous 
manul'acturing city at Cohoes Falls, with 15,357 inhabitants, 7 churches. 



94 Route 10. BALLSTON SPA. 

and 2 weekly papers. On the immense water-power derived by hydraulic 
canals from above the long dam are large factories for making paper, 
furniture, cotton goods, axes, bar-iron, hardware, etc., aggregating 
310,000,000 annually. Near Cohoes is the new and costly State Dam ; 
and 3 M. above, the Erie Canal crosses the river in a stone aqueduct 
1,137 ft. long, resting on 26 piers. The falls at Cohoes are 900 ft. wide, 
amid rocky ledges and cliffs, and fall 78 ft. (40 of which are perpendicu- 
lar). The train passes on to the large factory-village of Water/urd, on the 
Hudson; runs by the Albany Junction, and traverses a long intervale 
between the Hudson River and the Champlain Canal. The line then 
deflects to the W. and passes the thread-factories of Mechanicsville and 
Round Lake (near the celebrated Metliodist camp-ground). Station, 
Ballston Spa (* Sans Souci Hotel; Balhton House, and others), the capi- 
tal of Saratoga County, with 5,000 inhabitants and several factories. The 
Spa was widely renowned as a summer resort many years ago, and still 
has many visitors. The Artesian Lithia Spring was discovered in 1868, 
and flows from a depth of 650 ft. It is recommended for the cure of 
rheumatism, gout, gravel, and several other maladies, and contains 1,233J 
grains of mineral matter to each gallon, of which nearly 8 grains are of the 
bi-carbonate of lithia. Tlie Sans So2ici Spouting Spring contains 986^ 
grains of mineral matter to each gallon, of which 572 are of chloride of 
sodium, and 274 are of the bi-carbonates of lime and magnesia. It is on 
tlie grounds of the Sans Souci Hotel, a large building which was erected 
in 1804. There are other deep sprhigs in the village A branch R. R. 
nms S. W. from Ballston to Schenectady, in 17 M. 7 M. beyond the Spa 
the train passes (on the r. ) the great hotels of 

Saratoga Springs. 

Hotels.— * Congress Hall, uloii-;siac(>f Cngruss Park, has 1,016 ft. of frontage 
(on 3 streets), with broad piazzas, roof pronienaaes, and fine imrlors. It was 
built in 18GS, and is of an iniiaising form of arcliitecture (1,'JOO guests). The 
♦Grand Union Hotel is opposite Congress Hall, and has a frontage (on Broadway) 
of 1.304 ft., with 1 M. of piazzas, 2 M. of halls, 13 acres of carpets and marble 
flooring, and 824 rooms (from .^ 21 to $ 28 a week). The office is adorned with mar- 
ble columns and frescos. The *Grand Hotel, opposite Congress Park, is richly fur- 
nished and dec-orat.'d, and (vares for 1,000 guests. The New * United States Hotel 
is solidly built of l)rick, with 1,100 rooms, at a cost of over sf 1,000,000. It fronts 
on Broadway and Division Sts. for 000 ft., and has immense i)arlors and dining- 
halls, and airy colonnades. The * Clarendon is an aristocratic resort (500 
guests), amid stately elm groves, opposite Congress Park ; and the Everett House, 
in the same vicinity, accommodates 200 guests. The American (on Broadway) 
accommodates 450 guests ; tlie Marvin House (corner of Broadway and Division 
Sts.), 250 ; the Columbian, 200 ; and the Continental (on Washington St.), 200. 
Besides those above named, there are 42 hotels in and near the village, together 
with several great Avater-eure establishments under the care of experienced doc- 
tors, and many quiet and inexpensive boarding-houses. The charges at the prin- 
cipal hotels are ^^5 a day, $ 25-85 a week, while every variety of price and accom- 
modation may be found among the smaller hotels. Pleasant quarters may be found 
in the boarding-houses for $8-20 a week. (Lists of hotels and boarding-houses, 
with locations and prices, in Dearborn's " Saratoga," 25c. ; Allen's " Handbook 
is scientific and medical, 75c.) The AVindsor (400 guests) is a new first-class 
hotel, opposite the Clarendon. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. Route 10. 95 

Carriages. — 50c. each passenger for a course within the village limits (bag- 
Eige extra). Omnibuses run frequently to the springs bej'und the village, and to 
Saratoga Lake. A small steamer plies on the lake. Stages run daily to iSchuyler- 
ville (12 M. E.) and the river villages. 

Amusements. — There are nightly hops in the ball-rooms of the large hotels, 
and gi-and balls once a week at each of tliese houses. Guests pay S 1 for admis- 
sion to the balls, which are very brilliant. Music is discoursed by the bands 
connected with the hotels several times daily, ,and promenades take place in the 
parks, parlors, and piazzas. Dramatic and literary entertainments in the village 
halL The races come off in July and August (second week) on one of the best of 
the American race-courses (1 M. from Congress Park). The swiftest horses are 
entered at these famous contests, and some of the most remarkable races of the 
past decade have taken place there. Aquatic sports on Saratoga Lake. 

Churclies. — The Methodist and the Episcopal societies have fine buildings 
on Washington St., near the Grand Union. The Baptist Church is on the same 
street, and the Presbyterian Church is on Upper Broadway. The Catholics meet 
at their church on S. Broadway (near the Clarendon), and the Congregationalists 
on Phila St. (over the Post-Oflice). The Y. M. C. A. jiarlors and reading-room are 
in the Town Hall (corner Broadway and Church St.). 

Railroads. — To New York, by through express (without change) on the Hud- 
son River R. R., in 5.^ hrs. (186 M.), or to Albany by train, and thence to New York 
by the river-steamers. To Philadeliihia (page 319) byway of Schenectady and 
Binghamton. To Bo.ston, by the Hoosac Tunnel, by Rutland i'230 M. in it hi-s., 
without change), or by the Boston and Albany R. R. To Chicago (841 M.), by 
Schenectady, and thence by the N. Y. Central and its Western connections. 
Saratoga is 38 M. from Albany, 45 M. from Lake George, 202 M. from Montreal, 
311 M. from Niagara Falls, 237 M. from the Wiiite Mts., and 412 M. from Wash- 
ington. The Adirondack Railroad runs fioni Saratoga to North Creek (57 M.). 

Saratoga Springs, one of the foremost summer resorts of America 
and of the world, is situated in Eastern New York, about midway be- 
tween N. Y. City and Montreal. Like Newport by the sea, it is often 
called " the Queen of American watering-places " ; and this dual sover- 
eignty is generally acknowledged. The village is situated on a plateau 
10-12 M. W. of the Hudson River, and has a resident population of 
about 9,000. The hotel system of Saratoga is iinequalled elsewhere in 
the world, and, although equal to the accommodation of 15-18,000 
guests, it is taxed to its utmost capacity during the month of August 
(the season opens early in June). Broachvay is the main street, and ex- 
tends for several miles N. and S., with the chief hotels near its centre, and 
a succession of villas beyond. Circular St. and Lake Avenue are also 
famed for their elegant summer residences, while large medical establish- 
ments and boarding-houses are found on the quieter side-streets. The 
village is at its brightest in August, when it is thronged by visitors from 
all parts of the Republic and from Europe ; while over 3,000 private 
carriages, together Avith the cavalcades from the public livery-stables, 
join in the parade of fashion on Broadway and the Boulevard. Although 
the greater part of the visitors come from the central Atlantic States, yet 
the number from beyond that district is so great as to give a continental, 
or even a cosmopolitan, flavor to the summer society. The merry music 
of the bands, the regular processions of elegant carriages on the fashion- 
able drives, the crowds gathering about the springs at the hours for 
drinking, the brilliant hops and the world-renowned balls at the grand 



96 Route 10. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

hotels, and the surging of the multitude toward the railroad-station at 
the time of the incoming trains, furnish endless resources for observation 
and amusement. 

Congress Park is a pleasant ground for a ramble, and consists of a 
low ridge sweejnng around the Congress and Columbian Springs. It is 
opposite the chief hotels, and is well laid out in paths, witli a lake, a line 
of cottages, and many other neat embellishments which were added 
in 1876. N. of the Park is the Indian Camp, where a band of French 
lialf-breeds and Indians sojoxirn during the summer, carrying on a 
lucrative trade in bead-work, baskets, moccasins, and other small wares. 
The Circular Railway is near the camp, and is supposed to afford visitors 
a beneficial exercise. A little way N. of the camp (on the r. side of 
Circular St. ) is the Temjile Grove Seminary, whose fine building is used 
during the summer as a boarding-house for iamilies. On the same street, 
just beyond the Seminary, is tlie Drs. Strong's Institute (200 guests), for 
the pi-actice of the water, vacuum, and movement cures. 1^ M. N. of 
the Park are the hotel and driving-park at Glen MitcJiell, with finely ar- 
ranged grounds and shady groves. 

The mineral springs rise in a stratum of Potsdam sandstone, near a great break, 
or displacement, of tlie strata underlying tlie Saratoga Valley, and reach the sur- 
face by passing through a bed of blue clay. Most of the s]mngs are owned by 
stock companies, one of which has a capital of $1,000,000, and controls the Con- 
gress, Columbian, and Empire Springs. The process of boring artesian \vells has 
been introduced with much profit, and some of the most valuable of the new 
sources have been discovered in that way ($175,000 has been offered for the 
Geyser Spring). Immense quantities of the Avaters are sent away to all parts of 
the United States, for the treatment of invalids at home, though the processes of 
bottling and packing are difficult and costly. In the year 1866, 300,000 bottles 
were sent away from the Empire Spring alone. Great quantities of artificial imi- 
tations of the waters are also sold in the American cities. The principal ingre- 
dients are carbonic acid and salt, with bi-carbonates of lime, magnesia, soda, 
iron, and lithia, whose varying proportions cause the peculiar properties of the 
different sources. The, visitor may freely drink at any of the springs, the water 
being dipped up by boys (to whom a small gratuity is sometimes given). The 
cathartic waters should "be taken before breakfast (3 glasses being a fair quantity) ; 
the alterative waters are taken in small quantities throughout the day ; the tonic 
(iron) waters after midday ; and the diuretic waters before each meal. • 

The Congress Spring is near the new cottages in Congress Park. It 
was found by a party of hunters in 1792, and was so named because there 
was a Congressman among their number. The exportation of the water 
began in 1823, and it has now a continental fame, and is also sold in 
Europe. Each gallon contains 400 grains of chloride of sodium (salt), 
143 of bi-carbonate of lime, 122 of bi-carbonate of magnesia, and 36 of other 
elements, with 392 cubic inches of carbonic-acid gas. This water is 
cathartic and alterative, and is beneficial in diseases of the liver and kid- 
neys, dyspepsia, and gout. More of it is drank than of the water of any 
other American spring, and its vicinity is thronged every bright summer 
mornins: with health-seekers from the hotels. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. Route 10. 97 

The Columbian Spring is prettily sheltered in Congress Park. It 
was discovered in 1806, and is the favorite among the residents of the 
village. It is a ferruginous water, containing much carbonic-acid gas, 
and should be taken in small quantities. It is a decided tonic and diuretic, 
and its use strengthens the digestive organs and increases the iron in the 
blood. Each gallon contains 291 grains of chloride of sodium, 90 of car- 
bonate of lime, 40 of carbonate of magnesia, 6 of carbonate of iron, and 
457 cubic inches of carbonic-acid gas. 

The Washington Spring is in the grounds of the Clarendon Hotel 
(across Broadway, and 600 ft. from the Congress). It was oj^ened in 
1806, and while being renovated and shafted in 1858, a torrent of water 
and gas burst into the subterranean tunnel and forced the workmen to 
flee for their lives. This is the pleasantest water in the valley, and has a 
taste of iron, with strong tonic properties. It is sometimes called " the 
Champagne Spring," and is situated amid statelj' pine groves. 

The Hathorn Spring is on Spring St., opposite Congress Hall. It was 
discovered in 1868, and is a very powerful cathartic, especially efficacious 
in disorders of the stomach and kidneys, and in giving tone and strength 
to exhausted systems. Each gallon contains 510 grains of chloride of 
sodium, 176 of bi-carbonate of magnesia, 171 of bi-carbonate of lime, and 
an extraordinary quantity of lithia. It is pleasant to the taste, and acts 
also as a diuretic. It was tubed at a cost of $15,000, and is 40 ft. deep. 
300 dozen bottles (.$ 3 a dozen) are put up daily. The Hamilton Sjyring 
is near the Hathorn, and back of Congress Hall (corner of Spring and 
Putnam Sts. ). It is alterative and diuretic; also mildly cathartic, and is 
chiefly used for diseases of the kidneys. The Putnam Spring is on Phila 
St. (near Putnam), and is a chalybeate water. It is mostly used for bath- 
ing, for which there are conveniences on the premises. The Crystal 
Spring is \mder the Grand Hotel, and was opened in 1870. It is tainted 
with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is alterative in its effect. 

The Pavilion Spring is in a pretty park on Lake Avenue, near Broad- 
way. It was tubed in 1839 (re-tubed in 1869), and has a wide reputation 
for its cathartic properties and its efficacy in dyspepsia and bilious com- 
plaints. Of late years it has improved in quality and popularity, and 
great quantities are sent away every year. The United States Spring is 
under the same gracefid colonnade, and is tonic and alterative in its 
properties, while from its sparkling character it is used for giving life and 
flavor to still wines. Each gallon contains 142 grains of chloride of 
sodium, 93 of bi-carbonate of lime, 73 of bi-carbonate of magnesia, and 245 
cubic inches of carbonic acid. 

The sources previously mentioned are near each other in the centre of 
the village. The Seltzer, High Rock, Star, Red, and " A " Springs are in 
a line in the N. part of the village. The Seltzer is a short distance N. 
5 G 



98 Route 10. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

of the Pavilion, near Spring Avenue. The water wells up through an 
exposed glass tube 3 ft. high and 15 inches in diameter, in which tlie free 
gas causes frequent ebullitions. It is the least saline of the Saratoga 
waters, and is said to resemble the Nassau Spring in Germany. It is a 
pleasant and invigorating beverage. 

The High Rock Spring is just N. of the Seltzer, and is the greatest 
curiosity of Saiatoga. It flows from a crater-like opening in a dome- 
shaped mass of tufa-rock nearly 4 ft. high, which has been formed by the 
precipitation of carbonate of lime formerly held in solution in the water. 
This rock has been lifted off once, in order to allow of the removal of the 
underlying logs and mud. A gracefid Saracenic canopy has been built 
over it. The water is tonic and cathartic, and is actively beneficial in a 
large number of diseases. It is decidedly saline to the taste, containing 
iu each gallon, 390 grains of chloride of sodium, 31 of bi-carbonate of lime, 
and 55 of bi-carbonate of magnesia. 

The Star Spring is near the High Rock, and was formerly called "the 
President" and "the Iodine." A large bottling-house is situated here, 
and immense quantities of the water are sliipped thence to New England, 
where it is the favorite spring. It is also put up in barrels and kegs lined 
with tin or porcelain. It is mildly cathartic in its effect, and pleasantly 
acid to the taste, and is beneficial for rheumatism and cutaneous diseases. 

The Empire Spring is j iist E. of the Star, at the foot of a detached 
bluff of Mohawk limestone. It was opened in 1846, has pleasant sur- 
roundings, and is provided with a large bottling-house. It is very similar 
in its ingredients and effects to the Congress water. Near this is the 
Red Spring, a strong ferruginous water which is of much efficacy in cases 
of dyspepsia and skin diseases, also in improving the blood. It is prin- 
cipally used for bathing. The "A" Spring is near by (on Spring Ave- 
nue), and is a valuable cathartic remedy. It is pleasant to the taste, and 
is exported in large qiiantities. 

The Excelsior Spring is about 1| M. N. E. of Congi-ess Park, and is 
reached by Spring Avenue, or by a forest-path turning off near the cross- 
ing of Lake and East Avenues. It is in Excelsior Park, which has been 
laid out for a suburb of villas, and near Excelsior Lake, whence the 
village gets its water-supply. This spring is pleasant to the taste, and 
mildly cathartic in operation. Great quantities of it are shipped to the 
cilies. Near this place are the Minnehaha, Union, and other sources, 
forming a group known as the Ten Springs. The Mansion House ($10- 
20 a week) is situated in this vicinity. The Eureka Spring is reached 
by following the park-like valley for a few rods beyond the Excelsior. It 
is situated amid charming forest scenery, and is gaining popularity as a 
cathartic agent, beneficial for cases of dyspepsia and for diseases of the 
digestive organs. Near this place is the Eureka White-Sulphur Spring, 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. Rmite 10. 99 

having a copious flow of water charged with sulphuretted hydrogen. This 
is one of the best hepatic springs in the State, and is efficient in many 
diseases of the glands, skin, and stomach. It is taken internally and 
externally, — the latter at the bath-houses (50c. a bath) in the vicinity. 
Stages run hourly from the great hotels to the Eureka Springs (20c.). 

The Geyser Spouting Spring is 1| M. S. W. of the village, on the 
Ballston Road (omnibus fare, 20c.). A shaft was bored (in 1870) to the 
depth of 140 ft., where it struck a vein of water, Avhich has since con- 
tinued to flow copiously. It rises through a pipe of block-tin, and forms 
a jet 25 ft. high, agitated by carbonic-acid gas. This is the coldest of the 
waters of Saratoga, and has a larger amount of mineral matter than any 
other. It is strongly cathartic, and is lively and pleasant to the taste. A 
pretty little park is being made in this vicinity. 

The Glacier Spouting Spring is near the Geyser, and was opened, in 
1871, by sinking an artesian well to the depth of 300 ft. in the Trenton 
limestone. The water spouts to a considerable height, and has a large 
proportion of mineral matter. It is a powerful cathartic, and is bene- 
ficial in diseases of the liver and kidneys. The J^tna, Triton, and Ellis 
Springs are also in this vicinity. 

Saratoga Lake is 4 M, from the village, and is reached by the favorite 
drive called the Boulevard (entered between Congress Hall and the Park ; 
omnibuses out and back, 7oc.). The Boidevard is 100 ft. wide, is lined 
with trees on the sides and in the centre, and commands distant views of 
the Green Mts. It passes near the race-course and the trout-ponds. 
* Moon's Lake House is the favorite of the lake-hotels, and furnishes rare 
dinners of fish and game, at high prices. The fried potatoes of this 
house are considered a great delicacy. Boats and fishing-tackle may be 
obtained here. The lake was called Ko.yaderoga by the Indians, and is 
8 M. long by 2\ M. wide. The scenery is quiet, although the views from 
Chapman's Hill (1 M. from the Lake House) and Wagman's Hill (4 M.) 
are pleasing, and embrace the panorama of the Kayaderosseras Mts. On 
the shore is Frank Leslie's elegant villa of Interlachen. Lake Lovely is a 
sequestered pond among the hills near the Boulevard. It is a favorite 
resort for picnics, and has some fine woodland scenery. The Greenfield 
Hills, the falls at Corinth, Waring Hill, and Lake Luzerne are visited 
from Saratoga. 

Saratoga is an Iroqiiois word wliich means "place of herrings " (applied to the 
stream now called Fish Creek). The mineral waters were used by the Indians 
centuries ago, and were regarded with peculiar veneration. In August, 1767. 
while Sir William Johnson, the friend and whilom leader of the MohawlvS, was 
suffering from disease induced by a bad wound received at the Battle of Lake 
George, the tribe held a soleum council and determined to conduct him to "the 
Medicine Spring of tlie Great Spirit." He was borne on a litter to the High Rock 
Spring, and was its first white visitor. In 4 days his strength returned rapidly, 
and he wrote to Gen. Schuyler : " My dear Schuyler, I have just returaed from a 
most amazing spring which almost effected my cure." The' tidings soon spread 



100 Route 10. THE BATTLES OF STILLWATER. 

among the colonists, and the Spring began to be visited by the forest-trails. In 
1773, Dirick 8cowton built a small log-tavern near the High Rock, but the Indians 
drove him away, and it was opened in 1774 by a Illiode-Islander. The land was 
on Rip Van Dam's section of the Kayaderosseras Patent. From 1776 until 1783 
no one lived there, although the officers of Gates's army frequently visited the 
place. Norton came in 1783, and in 1789 came Gideon Putnam, who erected the 
first hotel. Gen. Schuyler spent the summer of 1783 in a tent near the Higli 
Rock, and built a house where he dwelt in subsequent summers. Large hotels 
were erected after 181.5, and new springs were opened and made available. Several 
destructive fires have swept through the village ; and the great hotels of the 
present day are of late construction. 

The Battles of Stillwater 

were fought about 15 M. S. E. of Saratoga Springs. In June, 1777, Gen. Burgoj-ne 
marched S. from Canada with a large and well-appointed British army, strength- 
ened by German, Canadian, and Indian auxiliaries. This force was to meet an- 
other British army advancing from New York, somewhere on the line of the 
Hudson River, and thus cut the re\)ellious colonics in two, to be subjugated in 
detail. Burgoyne took Fort Ticonderoga, July 6 ; defeated St. Clair's army ; and 
lost a large detachment of his best German troops, who were cut off by tlic Ver- 
niontcrs at Bennington, Aug. 16. On Sept. 14 the British army crossed tlie Hud- 
son and encamped at Saratoga, near the American works, wliere lay a strong 
force under Gen. Gates. Sept. 19, Burgoyne attacked Gates in 3 divisions, at the 
point of the bayonet. Morgan's Virginians and Dearborn's New Hampshire n!en 
checked the Canadians, after a furious fight in the forest. Near the Middle 
Ravine occurred the most serious figliting (>f the day, when Arnold attacked the 
enemy with the 1st and 2d N. Y. troops, tlie 2d, 8th, and 9tli Mass. regiments, the 
1st, 2d, and 3d N. H., and Morgan's Virginians. The Britisli 9th, 20th, 21.st, 241h, 
62d, and grenadier regiments, with a swarm of Germans and Indians, pressed 
forward with the bayonet ; but " Arnold led the van of his men, and fell upon tlie 
foe with the fury and impetuosity of a tiger." The British leaders, fresh from the 
wars of Flanders, said that they had never known so long and hot a fire. At 
nightfall the enemy held the field, though they had lost over 500 men. Tl:e 
American loss was 319. The armies now began to throw up fortifications, within 
cannon-sliot of each other, and, on Oct. 7, Burgoyne made another attack on the 
Republican lines. But tlie Americans left their works and charged upon the 
hostile field-batteries ; while Morgan routed the Briti.sh r. wing. The German 
troops who formed the centre Stood firm in the swash of the rout until Arnold 
fell upon them with his brigade of Ncw-Englanders. Gen. Fraser, the life of the 
British army, w\as mortally wounded ; and Gen. Ten Broeck brought 3,000 fresh 
N. Y. troops into action. A panic now seized the royalists, and they fled to their 
fortified camps, closely pursued by the victors, who, under Arnold's lead, stormed 
the works in several places under' a heavy fire of grape-shot. Night then settled 
upon the field ; and the enemy, having lost 700 men in the action, sullenly re- 
treated, leaving their trains and hospitals. The fords of the Hudson were guarded 
bv Fellows's New England brigade and batteries ; and Burgoyne was forced to 
encamp at Schuylerville. Here he was confronted by 9,000 Continental troops 
and 4,000 N. Y. and Eastern militia ; his Indian and Canadian auxiliaries deserted 
en, masse; the camp was incessantly cannonaded bj^ the Americau batteries ; and 
provisions gave out entirely. Oct. 17, Burgojiie's army (consisting of 3,379' 
Britons and 2,412 Germans) laid down their arras. The artillery train consisted 
of 42 pieces ; and among the captive officers were 6 members of Parliament. The 
army was held in captivity until the close of the war (over 5 years) ; first at 
Cambridge, Mass., and afterwards at Charlottesville, Va. As a result of this vic- 
torious campaign, Continental money rose 20 per cent ; the militia hastened to 
the camps ; Chatham and Burke denounced the war, in the British Parliament ; 
Spain, Holland, Russia, and Rome spoke cheering words to America; and France 
acknowledged the independence of the United States. Large sums of money 
have recently been raised for a monument to be erected on the surrender-ground ; 
and it is hoped that it may be dedicated in 1876. 

Scliuylerville (* Goldsmith Hovse) is 12 M. E. of Saratoga Springs (daily 
stage), at the confluence of Fish Creek and the Hudson River. It is a pleasant 



FORT EDWARD. Route 10. 101 

village on the line of the projected Troy & Whitehall R. R. ; and has 4 churches, 
the old Schuyler mansion, and the sites of several ancient forts. A strong redoubt 
was erected here by the French army of the Baron Dieskau, in 1755 ; and near 
this fort Burgoyne's troops laid down their arms in 1777, after a campaign which 
" left the country stripped of nearly every evidence of civilized occupation and 
culminated in one of the 15 decisive battles of the world." A bridge 800 ft. long 
crosses from Schuylei-\ille to Galesville, near which is an ancient hill-fort dating 
from 1709 ; and also the * Dionondahowa Falls, on the Batten Kill. A pleasant 
river-road runs 12 M. N. to Fort Edward, passing Fort Miller (G M.), which was 
built by Sir Wm. Johnson in 1755. Once, when imrsued by a party of Indians, 
Putnam escaped by boldly steering his boat down the white whirl of the Fort 
MiUer Falls. 



The Montreal train passes N. E. from Saratoga Springs across the thinly 
populated town of Wilton, with the Palmertown Mts. on the 1. Stations, 
Gansevoort and Moreau, beyond which the Hudson River is crossed at 
Fort Edward {Eldridge's ; St. James Hotel), a village of 3,492 inhabi- 
tants, with two banks and several paper-mills and blast-furnaces. The 
spacious buildings of the Collegiate Institute are seen on the 1. Lake 
George is reached by a branch R. R. diverging here (see Route 11). 

In 1690 Gen. Winthrop encamped here with a colonial army on the march to 
attack Montreal ; and in 1700 Schuyler fortified tlie place and garrisoned it with 
450 British regulars. It became an important point on the great military route 
between the French and English colonies, since here began a land transit between 
the water-ways of the Hudson River and Lake Cliainplain. In 1744 Lydius, the 
Indian fur-trader, built here a fortified post, which was soon destroyed by the 
French ; and in 1755 Fort Lyman (afterwards called Fort Edward) was built at 
the confluence of a broad creek and the Hudson River. The ramparts were 10 ft. 
high and 22 ft. thick, were flanked by 4 bastions, and were bordered by a broad 
wet diti'h. Putnam repulsed an attack of the Indians on this post ; and in 1759 
Lord Amherst organized here the grand army of 11,000 men, with which the Con- 
quest of Canada was effected, terminating that Seven Years' War which cost 
Great Britain §560,000,000, "and laid one of the largest foundation-stones of that 
national debt under which she now groans." In 1777 the fort was held by 5,500 
Americans, who retired before the advance of Burgoyne ; and the beautiful Jane 
M'Crea was murdered by Indians, near the village, under circumstances which 
have caused her story to become one of the saddest in the New World history. 

Fort Ann was erected in 1757 at the N. E. end of the tram-way and portage 
from Fort Edward ; and Wood Creek was navigable thence to Lake Champlain. 
1 M. N. W. Putnam and 500 Rangers were ambushed and defeated by the French 
partisan chief Molang, with a large force of French and Indians (Aug., 1758). The 
Rangers suffered fearfully, and Putnam was captured, and was being burnt at the 
stake when Molang rescued him from the savages. | M. N. of Fort Ann the R. 
R. traverses the rocky defile where the garrison of the fort attacked the 9th 
British regiment (July 8, 1777). After a long and obstinate conflict, the Ameri- 
cans were forced to retreat. 

The train runs N. E. from Fort Edward, near the Champlain Canal to 
Fort Ann, whence it descends the valley of Wood Creek. On the r. are 
the Cossayuna highlands, and on the 1. are the uninhabited defiles of the 
Palmertown and Fort Ann Mts. Station, Whitehall {HalVs Hotel), an 
important lumbering-village with 4,322 inhabitants. It is picturesquely 
situated in a deep and rugged ravine at the foot of Skene's Mt. The rail- 
road to Montreal connects here. 



102 Route 10. RUTLAND. 

It was fortified at an early date, and in 1763 a colony was established here by 
Col. Skene (a veteran of t'arta;,'ena, Fontenoy, CuUoden, Tieonderoga, and Hava- 
na). The Indian name Knhrhnijuana wa.s supplanted by Slvene.shurough, and a 
large stone mansion and military worlds were oreeted. It was captured by Her- 
rick and the Green Mt. Boys in 177;j ; and in 1779 was confiscated by the State of 
New York on account of Skene's adhesion to the king. July 7, 1777, the Britisli 
fleet here engaged the Americans fleeing from Tieonderoga, destroyed several gal- 
leys, and took 128 cannon and a vast amount of supplies. Burgoyne's army re- 
mained here 3 weeks, and the ruins of his military works are to be seen on the 
hciglits. Benedict Arnold's fleet was built in this harbor ; and hither retired 
Macdonough's victorious fleet with the captured British squadron (1814). The 
flag-ships Saruto(ja and Cunjiancc sank at their moorings. 

The train runs N. E. from Whiteliall across Low Hampton ; then passes 
the Poultney River, and enters the State of Vermont. A richly pro- 
tliictive slate region is now traversed, and the line pa.sses Fairlmven and 
llydeville (at the foot of Lake Bomaseen, which is 8 M. long, and is lined 
with quarries of marble and slate). Castleton {Sunford lionise) is a 
pretty village, which contains the State Normal School and 5 churclies. 
300,000,000 white soapstone slate-pencils, 1,000 Lilliard-beds, 2,000 slate 
mantels, and vast amounts of marble, slate, and marbleized slate are 
turned out here yearly. 7 M. N. is Hubbardton, where Eraser's light 
infantry routed the American rear-guard retreating from Tieonderoga, 
507 men being lost on both sides. Passing now the great marble -quarries 
at W. Rutland (stages to Clarendon Springs), the train soon enters 
Rutland. The Central Vermont R. R. is now taken from Rutland to 
Burlington (68 M.), with fine views of the Green Mts. on the r. Rut- 
land (* Dates House ; Bardwell) is a well-situated and prosperous town 
of 10,000 inhabitants, with extensive marble-works and a lucrative 
country trade. The marble sells at the quames for a higher price than 
does Italian marble delivered in New York. Tliere are several fine 
churches here ; and the Court-House and Post-Office are worthy of 
notice. Pleasant exciirsions may be made to the Clarendon S])rings (6 
U. S.; large summer hotel), Killlngton Peak (9 M. E.), and Sutherland 
Falls (6 M. N.). The Montreal train passes the quarries of statuary- 
marble near the graceful Sutherland Falls ; Brandon, Avith its great 
(piarries, kaolin paint-works, and Howe's scales-factory ; Leicester Junc- 
tion, with a branch R. R. to Tieonderoga and Port Henry ; Salisbury, 
near the favorite summer-resort at Lahe Bunmore ; marble-producing 
Middlebury {Addison House), the seat of Middlebury College; and the 
little city of Vergennes {Stevens House), beautifully situated at the 
falls on Otter Creek, viewing the Green and Adirondack Mts., and 
near the summer resorts of Elgin Spring and the Fort Cassin House. 
From Burlington, the train runs to Montreal in 103 M., passing Es- 
sex Junction; St. Albans (* Weldon House), a pretty village of 6,000 
inhabitants, the chief dairy-market of New England, with fine public 
buildings and immense R. R. workshops; Highgate Springs {* Franklin 



RUTLAND. Bovte 10. 103 

House), a favorite resort near Missisquoi Bay and the Missisquoi and 
Sheldon Springs ; and the Canadian town of St. John's, on the Richelien 
River. (For a more detailed description of the ronte from Whitehall to 
Montreal, see Osgood's Xew England, Routes 28, 26, and 29.) 



Tlie. Troxj and Boston R. R. runs from Troy to N. Adams, Mass. (48 M.), where it 
joins the Hoosac Tunnel lines Irom the E. Stations : Lansingburgh {Park Hotel), 
a prosperous manufacturing village, with 6,372 inhabit:ints ; Melrose ; Schaghti- 
coke ; Pittstown, where the line enters the Ho(»sick Valley ; and Johnsonrllle, 
whence a branch R. It. runs N. 15 M. , across Cambridge and Easton, to Green- 
wich, a prosperous f ictory-viUage on the Batten Kill, T-S M. E. of Schuylervillu 
(see page 101). At flagle Bridge (Daltoii House), a R. R. diverges to Rutland ; 
and from near the manufacturing village of Hoosick Falls, a branch line runs to 
Bennington. In tlie town of Huosick, near the Walloomsac River, was fought 
the Battle of Bennington (Aug. 10, 17<'7), when Gen. Stark, with 1,800 men of 
New England, defeated Baume and Breyman, who were leading a force of Ger- 
mans, Canadians, and Indians on a raid into Vermont. The battle was long and 
obstinate, and the enemy lost 937 men and 4 cannon. The 10th of August hai? 
been observed as a holiday in Bennington ever since the battle. The train runs 
S. E, from Hoosick Falls, intersects the Harlem Extension R. R. (see page 62) 
at Petersburg]! Junction, crosses Pownal, in the S. W. corner of Vermont, and 
passes WUllanistown, Mass., the seat of Williams College, near the summer resort 
of *Greylock Hall, at the Sand Springs. Thence it passes up the Hoosac Valley 
to N. Adams (* Wilson House), a busy manufacturing place among the Berk- 
shire Hills, and 2 M. from the entrance to the *Hoosac Tuuuel (see Osgood's New 
England, Route 23). 

Troy to Rutland. 
By the Rutland and Washington R. R., in 75 M. The Ti-oy and Boston R. R. 
is taken for 23^ M. to FmqIc Bridge, whence the R. and W. train diverges to the 
N., up the Owl Kill Valley and across the town of Cambridge, famous for its 
growth of flax. Station, Cambridge (Feuton Hotel), near the picturesque valley 
of' Owl Kill. Passing thnmgh the lake-studded Taghkanick Hills, the train 
enters the valley of the Batten Kill ; and beyond Shushan it reaches Salem, a 
pleasant village and semi-capital of Washington County. To the E. are Mts. 
Equinox and vEolus, near Manchester, Vt. ; and a few M. W. is Cossayuna Lake, 
a beautiful sheet 3 M. long, surrounded with high hills and dotted with green 
islands. High up among the Cossayuna highlands is Argyle Lake. The train 
now enters Vermont, and passes the rural stations of Rupert and Pawlet (famous 
for large potato crops). Bending back into N. Y. State, down the valley of the 
turbulent Pawlet River, rich intervales are traversed, by rural stations, and the 
line re-enters Vermont, and passes Poultney (2 hotels). This is a pleasant 
village, where Horace Greeley learnt the printer's art, and Jared Sparks mastered 
the carpenter's trade. The old Ripley Female College is now used as a summer 
boarding-house (250 guests, §10-12 a week). Excursions are made to L.ake 
Bomaseen, Carter's Falls, and *Lake St. Catharine (St. Catharine Hotel), which 
is 5 M. long, and stands among fine hill-scenery. 8 M. E. of Poultney are the 
Middletown Springs (*Montvert Hotel, 300 guests). The line now traverses a 
region of slate-quarries and rolling hills, and reaches Castleton station. 



103 a. Route 10 a. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 



10 a. Albany to Montreal. 

By the Champlain Division of the Delaware & Hudson Canal Company's Rail-- 
roads, in 10-11 hours. Wagner's palace-cars are run on this route. Cai-s are 
changed at House's Point. The track of the Saratoga Division is followed from 
Albany by Saratoga to Wluteliall (see Route 10), where the Champlain Division 
is entered. Seats on the r. side of the ti'ain are preferable, as giving many pleas- 
ant views of Lake Chanijilain. 

Stations. — Albany to Whitehall, 71 M. ; Chubb's Dock, 78 ; Dresden, 81 ; 
Putuaui, so; Patterson, 91; Addison Junction, 95; Crown Point, 108; Port 
Henry, 111; Westport, lL'2; Wadham's Mills, 125; WhaUonsburg, 12S ; Wills- 
borough; Port Kent, 148; Valcour, 155; Plattsburgh, ICl ; Beckmantown, lliG; 
Chazy, 171: Sciota, 170; Mooer's Junction, 172 ; Chamidain, 179 ; Rouse's Point, 
1S3 ; Montreal, 'I'Sd. The express-trains run from Whitehall to Port Henry in 1^ 
hrs., to Plattsburgh in 3i hrs. , and to Rouse's Point in 6 hrs. The line now 
tises the rails of the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R. (Central Vermont) 
from Mooer's to Rouse's Point ; but will soon construct a new railroad from 
Chazy to Rouse's Point. 

On leaving Wliitehall the train passes to the N., and soon crosses the 
outlet of South Bay, witli the Whitehall Narrows on the r. For over an 
hour the track is followed to the N., bending frequently around bold 
ridges and curving along the shore of the narrow lake. The highlands of 
Dresden and Putnam are on the 1., and on the r. are the hills of Vermont, 
aci'oss the water. At Patterson a branch railroad diverges to the W., 
which soon crosses the outlet of Lake George (near Ticonderoga), and 
sweeps around Mt. Deliance to Baldivin, the landing-place of the Lake- 
George steamboats. The brancli is 5 M. long, and tlie fare is 75c. About 
10 minutes' Avalk from Baldwin is the Rogers-Rock House ($ 3 a day, 
314 a week), a new summer-hotel on a beautiful and far-viewing promon- 
tory between two quiet bays, near the foot of Rogers's Slide. 

The Montreal train next crosses the broad bay under Mt. Defiance, 
with views of Fort Ticonderoga. At Addison Junction, 2 M. from Ticon- 
deroga village, the line meets the railroad winch diverges from the Cen- 
tral Vermont line at Leicester Junction. 

Arrangements have recently been made by Avhich travellers can go from Lake 
George to the White Mountains in a day. Moriiiug stages leave the Rogers-Rock 
House for Addison Junction, where the train is taken. Time for dinner is given 
at Burlington, whence the traveller reaches the mountains (at suiiper-time) by 
way of Montpelier, and the Montpelier & Wells-River R. R. Going in the oppo- 
site direction the tourist dines at Montpelier, and reaches Addison Junction in 
time to be carried on the stage (5 M. ; 75c.) to the Rogers-Rock House to supper. 

The train now runs to the N. over a comparatively level and thinly popu- 
lated country, with frequent views over Lake Champlain. Beyond the 
hamlet and station of Crown Point it closely approaches the lake, and 
then bends to the 1., with the ruined fortress of Crown Point on the r. 
(scarcely visible), crosses Bulwagga Bay on a long bridge, and reaches the 
iron-manufacturing village of Port Henry, at the N. end of the Kaya- 
derosseras Mts. Fine views of the lake are now afforded on the r., as tlie 



LAKE GEORGE. Route 11. 103 5. 

great iron -works N. of Port Henry are passed. The line soon turns far- 
ther inland, and runs through a thinly settled region to West^jort station, 
wliich is about 1 M. from the pretty lake-port of the same nanrje, on 
Northwest Bay, Beyond this point the lake is long hidden by the huge 
mass of Split-Rock Mt., which is left on the E. Near Whallonshurg the 
Boquet River is crossed twice, and the line follows its course to Wills- 
horouyh, where it crosses yet again, and soon approaches the broad waters 
of Willsborough, or Peru, Bay. The scenery on tliis section is of a high 
order of beauty and impressiveness, as the train swings around the Treni- 
bleau Mts. and their connected ranges, on higli grades, and often on ter- 
races which are built out on the sharp slopes of the ridges. There are 
several tunnels and deep rock-cuttings, but generally the lake is open to 
view, and affords a series of beautiful prospects, bounded by the long 
line of the Vermont mountains. This section of the route is remarkable 
for its bold and imposing scenery, and daring engineering. 21 M. of the 
railroad in this region cost .$ 3,000,000, a very heavy expenditure for 
Eastern railroad work. Above Port Douglas the broad*expanse of Cor- 
laer's Bay is overlooked, and islands are seen out in the lake. Swinging 
around the N. end of the Trembleau Mts., the line soon reaches Port 
Kent, whence a ferry-boat runs to the city of Burlington, on the Ver- 
mont shore. Port Kent is the point of departure for the Ausable Chasm 
(2-3 M. W.), and also for the Saranac Lakes. 

From Port Kent to Plattsburgh the course is over a level and sandy 
country, with occasional fine views of the distant mountains. Soon after 
crossing the Ausable river twice, near its mouth, and the Little Ausable 
River, the train passes Valcour, near the island of the same name, off 
which Arnold was defeated in a naval battle. Tlie line now lies nearer 
the lake, crosses the Salmon River, and soon reaches the large and pros- 
perous village of Plattsburgh (see page 118). From this point the 
scenery is less interesting, as tlie train leaves the vicinity of the lake, and 
passes through the district across which Sir George Prevost's army ad- 
vanced to its disastrous defeat, in 1814. At Mooer's Junction the train 
is switched on to the Central Vermont track, and runs thence E. to 
Rouse's Point (see page 120). The route from Rouse's Point to Mon- 
treal is described on page 121. 

11. Lake George. 

Fort Edward is 55 M. N. of Albany (see Route 10), and is the point at 
which the route to Lake George diverges from the Saratoga Division 
R. R. A short branch railroad follows the Hudson River N. W. by tlie 
prosperous village of Sandy Hill (near Baker's Falls) to Glen's Falls 
(* Rockwell House, $ 3 a day, $14-21 a week ; American Hoicse). This 



1 04 Route 11. LAKE GEORGE. 

town lias 8,000 inhabitants, 2 weekly newspapers, an opera-house, an acad- 
emy, and a seminary. The * Soldiers' Monument is a fine work in Dor- 
chester sandstone, 46 ft. high, surmounted by an eagle, and flanked by 
life-size statues of soldiers. The village was destroyed by fire in 1864, 
but has already more than recovered its losses. Large saw-mills and 
paper-mills are located here; and immense quantities of black marble are 
quarried for exportation. The jointa lime which is shipped from this 
point has a high reputation. The falls of the Hudson are about 50 ft. 
high, and are well seen fi-om the bridge below. This bridge rests at mid- 
stream on a rocky islet, on which is a cave, where " amid the roar of this 
very cataract, if romance may be believed, the voice of Uncas, the last of 
the Mohicans, was heard and heeded; here Hawk Eye kept his vigils; 
here David breathed his nasal melody; and here Duncan He}^vard, with 
his lovely and precious wards, Alice and Cora Monroe, fell into the hands 
of the dark and bitter Mingo chief." The scene of Cooper's novel, " The 
Last of the Mohicans," was laid here. The black marble cliffs on either 
side contain many trilobites and other fossils. 2 M. above Glens Falls is 
the great State Dam whence the summit level of the Champlain Canal is 
fed, and a rugged road leads through the Luzerne Mts. to Lake Luzerne, 
10-12 M. W. 

Morning and evening stages leave Glens Falls for Caldwell, 9 M. N. on 
Lake George. The plank-road runs across the Pine Plains, with glimpses 
of the Luzerne Mts. on the 1., and the Palmertown and Fort Ann Mts. on 
the r. Near the Half -Way House are the remains of several ancient re- 
doubts ; and in this vicniity the daring French partisan. La Come, attacked 
a commissary train, burnt the wagons, killed 110 persons, and carried off 
84 prisoners. Beyond the toll-gate is Williams's Rock, with a monument 
erected by the students of Williams College, to the memory of Col. Wil- 
liams, who fell here during '• the Bloody Morning Scout " (see below). 
Near this point is the weird and sequestered Bloody Pond, into which the 
slain men of Williams's command were thro^vn, and there is a legend that 
its waters bore a sanguine hue for many years. The road now rises to a 
point which commands a fine * view of Lake George, and the stage soon 
reaches Caldwell, a dull village at the S. end of Lake George, which en- 
joys a slight local distinction from the fact of its being the shire-town of 
Warren County. The * Fort William Henry Hotel is an imposing struc- 
ture, situated on the old garrison garden and fronting the lake (1,200 
guests; $5 a, day for transient visitors). The * Lake House is by the 
water-side, on the site of Montcalm's siege-batteries (200 guests ; $ 3.50 a 
day ; $ 17 - 21 a week). There are 2 village inns and several boarding- 
houses. Stages run 2-3 times daily to Glens Falls ($1.25); and to 
Thunnau, on the Adirondack R, R. (9 M. ; $1.25). Railroads from Lu- 
zerne and Glen's Falls have been chartered ; the latter is not likely to be 



LAKE GEORGE. Route 11. 105 

built. Steamers run down the lake thrice daily ; an hourly ferry crosses 
to Crosbyside. Row-boats, 50c. an hour, $1.50-2.00 a day; with fish- 
erman and tackle, $ 3 - 4 a day. 

Rattlesnake Cobble is near the village, and commands a broad view 
down the lake. Prospect and French Mts. are also ascended thence, and 
afford superb views of the lake and its shores. Bloody Pond (2 M.) and 
Williams's Rock ^ M.) are often visited. Nearly 1 M. S. E. is Fort 
George, which was built by Amherst in 1759. Much of its stone-work 
has been carried away and made into lime, but the embankments of the 
old lines still stretcli through the forest. Fort Gage is ^ M. distant, and 
the remains of other colonial works are found in tlie vicinity. Tlie ruins 
of Fort William Henry are just to the E. of the great hotel, and are in 
fair preservation. 

Lake George 

was first visited by Fatlier Jogues, a French Jesuit missionary, whose canoe 
entered its quiet waters on the cvc of the festival of Corpus Christi, 1C4G. In 
honor of tluit sacred anniversary lie named these bright waters Le Lac du St. 
Sacrement ("The Lake of the Blessed Sacrament "), and then passed on to his he- 
roic martyrdom at the hands of the Mohawks, fulfilling the prophecy which he 
made on leaving Montreal, "Ibo, nee redilio." For over a century the lake wa.; 
known in the border chronicles as the path of hostile incursions or of religious 
devotees passing to the land of the fierce heathen Mohawks. Oourcelles, Traccy, 
Schuyler, Menteth, — French, Dutch, Indians, English, — diversified tlie recoril. 
In 1G98 the Count de Fronteiiac led down the lake 450 soldiers of France and '230 
Indians, and destroyed the Moliawk castles in Central N. Y. He was hotly pur- 
sued to these shores, but escaped on the ice with his plunder and captives. At 
the first American Congiess (held at Albany, June 19, 1754) it was decided that 
the Lakes Champlain and George should be delivered from and fortified against 
the French aggressions. William Jolinson was put in command of the colonial 
army, and a train of nrtillery was i)rocured. (These cannon were all captured by 
the French at Fort William Henry ; retaken by the English at Ticonderoga ; fell 
into the hands of the Vcrnionters when Ticonderoga surrendered ; were drawn to 
Cambridge on sledges, and did notable service in the American bombardment of 
Boston.) Having concluded a league with the Six Nations, Johnson advanced his 
forces to St. Sacrement, which he named Lake George, " not only in honor of 
his Majesty, but to ascertain his undoubted dominion " (1755). The Baron dc 
Dieskau (formerly a cavalry officer under Marshal Saxe) then coinnianded the 
French forces on Lake Champlain, and marched against Jolmson with 1,600 men. 
His approach being .suspected, Johnson sent out a scouting party of 1,200 men 
(the 3d Mass., 2d Conn., and 200 Mohawks), although the Mohawk Chief Hen- 
drick protested that they were too few to succeed and too many to be slaughtered. 
The object was to engage and check the enemy's vanguard while Johnson com- 
pleted his hasty fortifications. But the detachment advanced into the very 
centre of the liostile army (which was marching in a great half-moon curve 
through the forest) and was speedily enveloped and crushed. A terrible massacre 
ensued (in the ravine which is still known as the Bloody Defile), and Col. Williams 
(of the ;3d Mass.; founder of Williams College) and liendrick, the Avhite-haire(l 
Mohawk chief, were killed while foremost figlitiiig. Dieskau pursued hard after 
the fugitive survivors, wliose retreat Avas covered by the 1st Rhode Island. This 
action was called "the Bloody Morning Scout." The French now moved on 
Johnson's rude defences of earthAvorks and abatis, and the regiments of La Reine 
and Languedoc, halting before the American centre, opened and continued i)la- 
toon-firing until tliey Avere nearly annihilated by the artillery. They then SAVuiig 
around and joined the Canadian and Huron auxiliaries in a sharp attack on the 
American right vlst 2d, and remnant of 3d Mass.). They Avere repulsed there, 
and the Chevalier de Montreuil led ott' the beaten army, Dieskau being Avoundcd 
5* 



106 Route 11. LAKE GEORGE. 

and a prisoner, and St. Pierre (who had defeated Washington on the Ohio) having 
been killed. Detachments froin the 1st N. H. and 1st N. Y. were sent from Fort 
Lyman, and gained another victory over the French rear-guard. The attack on 
Johnson's position lasted from noon until 4 o'clock, and cost the assailants 400 
men. Johnson was badly wounded early in the action, and Gen. Lyman succeed- 
ed to the command ; l»ut the foiincr was rewarded with a baronetcy. The great- 
grandfather of President Grant (an officer of tlie Conn, line) was killed in this 
action (Sept. 8, 173j). A large fort was V)uilt after the battle, and was named 
Fort William Henry, in lionor of the Duke of Cumberland (brother of George IIL, 
and merciless victor at CuUoden). The Frencli hekl Fort CariUon (Ticonderoga) 
at the foot of tlie lake, and there were freipient skirmishes and raids for tlie next 
3 years. The American rangers, Rogei-s and Putnam, were foremost in this parti- 
san warfare, which took jilace among the islands and bays. In March, 1757, 
Rigaud de Vaudrcuil menaced Fort William Henry with IjOO jiicked men, and de- 
stroyed 300 batteaux, 4 armed sloops, and all tlie outworks. In July, the Cheva- 
lier La Come led 700 men around the fort and captured a large supply-train, but 
was attacked by Putnam with gunboats, near Sabbath Day Point, and suffered 
heavy losses. 2 days later a Huron-Canadian force drove the provincials from 
the islands, and killed 54 men near the fort. During the same summer the Mar- 
quis (le Montcalm (Commander of the Order of St. Louis, and a veteran of the 
Italian campaigns) advanced up the lake after the fall of OsAvego, with 1,800 
warriors from 18 Indian tril)es (from Nova Scotia to Micliigan), 3,000 Canadian 
troops, and 3,081 regulars. The Chevalier de Levi advanced along the W. shore 
with 4 regiments, while Montcalm, with the main body, passed up the lake in 450 
boats. The fort was garrisoned by 2,100 men, and' the French troops swung 
around on the Fort Edward road to keep off reinforcements, while siege-batteries 
were opened within 700 yards of the works. Parallels and covered ways were 
made, and a heavy cannonade was opened from 32 guns. A spirited fire Avas kept 
up from the English batteries, and sciveral sorties were made, but, after 5 days' 
bombardment, the cowardly Gen. Webb refusing to send reinforcements from 
Fort Edward, and the French parallels being near the battered rampr.rts, Col. 
Monroe surrendered the fort, having permission to march to Fort Edward with 
arms, colors, and one field-piece. The capitulation took place at noon, and the 
English set out for Fort Edward the next morning. But the Indians had spent the 
night in drinking and martial rites, and (headed by a Nova Scotia tribe) fell upon 
the rear of tlie retreat with great fury, ins])iring a panic, in the English, who 
threw down their arms and scattered. Montcalm ordered up his troojis and en- 
dcivored to restrain his truculent allies, but a large number of the English sol- 
diers were killed before tiie massacre was stopped. The garrison was then sent 
to Fort Edward under escort of the Royal Roussilon regiment ; Montcalm removed 
the 34 captured cannon and immense supplies ; destroyed the works, and retired 

to Ticonderoga. "The fort Avas entirely demolished Dead bodies, mangled 

with scalping-knives and tomahawks in all the wantonness of Indian fierceness 
and barbarity, were everywhere to be seen. More than ICO won:en. butchered and 
shockingly mangled, lay upon the i round, still weltering in their gore. " (Putnam. ) 
The most imposing spectacles which this or any other American lake has seen 
occurred in 1758-59. July 5, 1758, Gen. Abercrombie advanced down the lake 
with 10,000 men, in 900 batteaux and 135 whale-boats, convoj-ed by gunboats and 
grouped around 2 huge floating castles, brilliant with rich uniforms and waving 
banners, Avhile the music of many bands echoed among the hills. (This pageant 
is linely described by Cooper, in "Satanstoe," Chapters XXII. -XXV.) A few 
days later the shattered and defeated- army passed up the lake to Fort William 
Henry, having left over 2,000 of their number dead and dying under the walls of 
Fort Carillon (Ticonderoga). In 175S Gen. Amherst led 11,000 men down the 
lake in another grand martial procession which resulted in the Conquest of 
Canada. In 1775 tlie abandoned Forts George and Gage (at Caldwell) were occu- 
pied by the troops of N. Y. and Conn. ; and, in the summer of 1777, Fort George 
was chosen for the army hospital (on account of the salubrity of the air), and 
3, GOO sick men were sent there, of whom hundreds died of the small-jiox and 
typhus-fever. In 1777, after the fall of Ticonderoga, Fort George and the lake 
were abandoned by the Americans, but Avere reoccupied after Burgoyne's surrender. 
In Oct., 1730, the garrison of Fort George Avas defeated and cut to pieces near 
Bloody Pond, and the fort and the fleet on the lake were taken by the British. 
Since that day unbroken peace has dwelt on these tranquil waters. 



DIAMOND ISLAND. Route 11. 107 

Lake George, "the Como of America," is situated in Northeastern 
New York, near the Adirondack Mts., and is about 300 ft. above the sea. 
It is 36 M. long, and 1-4 M. wide ; and its shores are generally sterile, 
and bordered by the lofty and abrupt hills of the Luzerne and Kayade- 
rosseras Ranges. There are but 3 petty villages on the lake ; and a high- 
way passes through them on the W. shore, connecting Caldwell with 
Bolton, Hague, and Ticonderoga. Tlie vicinity of frowning mts., the 
great number of islands, tlie transparency of the waters, and the bracing 
purity of the air of the highlands, unite to establish the claims of Lake 
George as a summer resort; while its scenery has been likened, not only 
to that of Como, but also to Lake Windermere and Loch Katrine. 

The steamer Minnehaha leaves Caldwell every inoniing at 7.45, reaches the N. 
end of the lake at 11, and gets back to Cakhvell at 7 r. m. (fare, $2 ; to go and 
return, S3). Tourists can visit Fort Ticonderoga, and return the same day. The 
Ganouskie and LilUc M. Price go down to the Narrows and 14-Mile Island morning 
and afternoon (.^1.50 for the roimd trip). 

The steamer leaves the pier near the great hotel, and crosses to Crosby- 
side, 1 M. distant on the E. shore, with a spacious summer hotel and 
cottages situated in pleasant groves by the sliore, and looking across to 
Caldwell (200 guests, $15-25 a week). The forest-covered French Mt. 
is seen towering on the E.; and 1 M. N., on the shore, is a convent of 
the Paulist Order (on a domain given by Charles O'Connor). Tea Island 
(so named from a tea-house, or arbor, erected in 1828) is next passed ; 
and the sunmier-house of Randolph, the publisher, is seen on tlie W., 
above which is Col. Price's stately villa. Diaiuond Island (3 I\I. from 
Caldwell) was held by 400 of Aberci'ombie's men after the great defeat ; 
and was foi-tified by Burgoyue as a depot of supplies (1777), and garii- 
soned by part of the 47th line regiment, under Capt. Aubrey. It was 
attacked by Col. John Brown, with the New England militia who had 
swept the outworks of Ticonderoga ; but Aulirey repulsed the Americans 
with artillery, and then drove them away ("with great loss") by an 
attack with his gunboats. Brown lost all his vessels and cannon, and 
many men. The name of the island is derived from the fine quartz 
crystals which are found there ; and tlie place was inhabited in the early 
part of this century, the mistress of tlie family being generally known as 
" the Lady of the Lake." Near Diamond Point (W. shore) is Coolidge's 
Hotel (1 10 -12 a week). Above Montcalm's Bay (E. shore) are the 
Trout Pavilion and the Kattskill House, two sequestered hotels under the 
shadow of the mts., and near good fishing-grounds (80 guests eacli, $10- 
15 a week). 4 M. from Caldwell is Long Island, with the Tliree Sisters 
on the W., and on the E. two promontories, which afford favorite camp- 
grounds. The Fort Ann Mts. loom up darkly on the E. as the steamer 
crosses the lake, with the Three Brothers on the W., and Dome and 
Recluse Islands on the N. Buck and Pilot Mts. are seen on the N. E., 



108 Route 11. BOLTON. 

and the Narrows open away beyond. This is the, widest part of the lake, 
and affords views of rare beauty, with the graceful * Dome Island {which 
resembles Ellen's Isle, on Loch Katrine) prominently seen. Recluse 
Island is a beautiful islet just W. of the Dome, with a picturesque villa 
embowered among the trees. Recluse has the remains of fortifications 
which were built by Abercrombie's army in 1758, and the views from its 
8. and E. shores are very beautiful. Tlie steamer now rounds in at 
Bolton, a small village, with a noble outlook over tlie broadest expanse 
of the lake {Mohican and Bolton Hotises, $12-18 a week; Wells', 
Braley's, and other boarding-houses, $8-15 a week). In the environs 
of tlie village is the quaint little stone Church of St. Sacrament. Tliere 
are several pleasant drives in this vicinity, — to Caldwell, by the lake- 
side (10 M.), and to Hague, over the hills. On the lofty plateau to the 
W. (1,000 ft. above Lake George) are several crystal lakes, the chief of 
which are Trout Lake and Edgecomb Pond. Prospect Mt. is back of the 
village, and commands a broad and delightful *view, embracing the 
widest part of the lake, Montcalm's and Ganouskie (Northwest) Bays, 
Recluse, Dome, and Green Islands, and the Narrows, with Tongue and 
Black Mts., in the N. and N. E. Ganouskie Bay extends for 6 M. to 
the N. above Bolton, being separated from the lake by the lofty i)rom- 
ontory of Tongue Mt. (called by the Indians Atakqjosa, "a sliding- 
place "), where deer are found in the late fall and Avinter, and eagles build 
their lofty eyries. The steamer runs N. E. from Bolton, passing Parodi 
(or Sloop) Island, which was named for the singer, Signora Parodi, who 
erected a cross here in 1851. On the 1. are Green and Crown Islands, 
closing the entrance to Ganouskie Bay ; while Tongue Mt. is on the W., 
and Buck Mt. on the E., as the steamer crosses towards the lofty pal- 
isades called Shelving Rock, witli the innumerable islands of the Narrows 
on the 1. A stop is made at 14-Milc Island, with its twelve forest- 
covered acres, lying at the entrance of tlie Narrows, and near the fishing- 
grounds (14-Mile Island House, $10-14 a week). On the S. are the 
Hen and Chickens islets; and about 1 M. S., on the mainland, are the 
pretty Shelving Rock Falls. The steamer now enters * The Narrows, 
where the lake is compressed between high mts., and a fleet of small 
islands is anchored in the channel. These islets were the scene of nu- 
merous partisan combats in the colonial days, but are now deserted, save 
for the visits of sportsmen, who find large trout in their cool shadows. 
Steaming down between Tongue Mt. and Black Mt. (2,878 ft. high ; 
sometimes ascended with guides fi'om Hulett's Landing, for the sake of 
its broad overview), the Minnehaha passes the Hatchet, Half- Way, and 
other groups of islets. Just N. of the Floating Battery group are the 
Harbor group and Vicar's Islands, with the lofty palisades of Buck Mt. 
on the W., and the hamlet of Dresden, down Bosom Bay, on the E, To 



SABBATH DAY POINT. Route 11. , 109 

tlie S. E. are the upper peaks of Black Mt., called, from their form, the 
Elephant Ridge, with Sugar-Loaf Mt. beyond. There are 3 sequestered 
farm-houses in Bosom Bay, where boarders are taken for §8 a week. 
Sahhath Day Point is soon approached (on the W.), a long low prom- 
ontory rmining out from the rich meadows imder Bloomer and Deer's 
Leap Mts., and still retaining the air of peace and restfulness which won 
it the name it bears. 

In 1757 a sharp skirmish ocrurred off this point, and in July of that year the 
1st N. J. Regiment was sent down tlie lake scouting. While drifting*^ by the 
Harbor Islands (just above the point), in the gray of the morning, they 'were 
• suddenly attacked by 300 Ottawa Indians and 50 Frenchmen. Although the 
Jersey Blues were superior in numljcrs, they were so daunted by tlie lury of the 
enemy and the fearful whoo])ing of the savages, that they fled in panic. JBut the 
swift Indian canoes quickly overtook their heavy barges, and only 12 men es- 
caped, —131 being killed, and the rest made prisoners. Some of them were 
tortured to death, and the Ottawas feasted during the following night on lunnan 
fle.sh. On July 5, 1758, the vanguard and centre of Abercrombie's grand army 
(light infantry and regulars) rested here from sunset until nearly midnight, 
waiting for the 3 brigades of provincials and the artillery. In 1751t Amherst's 
army rested on the point; and in 1777 a sharp action was fought here belweoii 
American militia and Tory refugees. The present commonjila<e farm-building.s 
detract from the natural beauty of tlie place (20 summer boarders are taken here, 
$8 a week). 

The vast bulk of Black Mt. is prominent in the S. E., as the Minne- 
haha runs N. to the village of Hague, situated on a widening of the lake, 
where it is 4 M. across. (The Plioenix Hotel and Trout Jloicse charge 
$8-12 a week.) Parties go from this point to the lakes (abounding in 
fish) of Pharaoh, Brant, and Schroon. As the steamer regains tlie middle 
of the lake, the prospect of the pass between Rogers' Slide and Anthony's 
Nose, and the retrospect of the Narrows and its archipelago, afford de- 
liglitful views. Friend's Point and the Waltonian Isle are next passed, 
and then Anthony's Nose (on the N. E. ) pushes out its rocky ledges over 
the deepest water in the lake (400 ft.). Rogers' Slide is a lofty palisade 
on the W., at whose foot is the Rogers-Rock House (see page 103 a). 

On March 13, 175S, while Major Rogers (afterwards a dangerous Tory officer) 
was scouting near '1 icnnderoga, with 2i)(i Rangers, he was surprised by the Sieur 
de Langy and 200 soldiers of the regiment La Reine. 144 of tlie Rangers were 
killed on the field, and 17 escaped. The border legend states that Rogers was 
pursued by tlie Indians to the verge of this cliff. Suddenly reversing his snow- 
shoes and throwing his haversack down on the ice-bound lake below, he retraced 
his tracks and got away down an adjacent ravine before his pursuers arrived. 
Tlie Indians followed the tracks to the precipice, and saw )ione leading away, 
whence they concluded that he had cast himself over ; and when, a few minutes 
later, they saw him skimming away over the ice toward Fort William Henry, they 
attributed his escape to the protection of the Great Spirit. 

Near the landing. Prisoners' Isle is passed on the 1. The prisoners of 
the Beam regiment, taken in Abercrombie's forest-fight near Ticonderoga, 
were put upon this islet and guarded by Mass. troops. But dui-ing the 
night many of them walked to the shore on a ledge about 18 inches below 
the water, and, " as Montcalm dryly remarked, ' they took French leave.'" 



110 B.outel2. LAKE CIIAMrLAIX. 

On the 1. is Lord Howe's Point. From the landing railroad trains run 
to Ticonderoga and around Mt. Defiance, meeting the Cliamplain Division 
R. R. 5 M. distant (see i)age 103 a). 

• 

12. Lake Champlain. Whitehall to Montreal. 

Tlie Vermont railnuul lines touch the lake at Burlington, on the E. ; and the 
N. Y. cS: Canada R. li. skirts it on the \V. The favorite route of tourist-travel 
enters at Ticonderoga, l>y way of Lake (George. The most direct way of eoming 
from New York is by Itoiites 8 and 10'2'Jl M. i ; and from Pliiladelphia by the 
N. Penn. and Albany & yusquehanna R. Rs. Tliere are four large steamboats 
plying on the lake. They leave Plattsburgh at 7 a. m., and Ticonderoga at noon 
(reacliing Plattsburgh at G.30 p. m. ). An excellent dinner is served on the boats 
(.•jl ; and staterooms may also be obtained. Travellers leaving Ciildwell on tlie 
morning boat meet tlie noon boat at Ticondcniga, The steamers formerly ran be- 
tween Whiteiiall, on tlie S. , and Rouse's Point, on the N., but their voyages arc 
now much shorter. The descriptions of those portions o. the lake are still re- 
tained, for the use of boatmen. 

Landings — Fort Ticonderoga (24 M. from Whitehall); Larrabee's Point, 2 M. ; 
Crown Point, 11; Port Henry, 18; Westiwrt, 28; Essex, 40; Burlington, (jl ; 
Port Kent, 66; Plattsburgh, 81. 

Lake Champlain is a large and picturesque sheet of water, running 
nearly N. and S. for 126 M., Avith a hreadtli of from 1 furlong to 13 M. Its 
waters are clear, and abound in Lass, pickerel, salmon -trout, and other 
fish, while the depth varies from 1) to 47 fathoms. There are many islands, 
tlie largest of whicli covers an area of 18,G00 acres, and has a population 
of 1,300. Besides numerous pleasant villages and towns, there is one city 
on the shores, and the fleets used in commerce here number many thou- 
sands of tons. There is a large trade between the rivers, the Hudson being 
joined to the lake by a canal 6-4 M. long (to Watervliet), while the Riche- 
lieu River affords an outlet to the St. Lawrence. The scenery of the Ver- 
mont shore is that of a quiet pastoral country, with the Green Mts. rising 
in the distant E. The New York shore presents a continual succession 
of barren and mountainous scenery, with occasional foot-hills of the 
Adirondacks pushed out in promontories, and the parent peaks looming 
blue in the distance. 

r.ake Cliamplaiii was called by the Iroquois Indians Caniaderi Guaranti 
(" 'I'hc Gate of tl:e Country"), and the Abenaquis called it rctoiihovque {" Tho 
Waters that lie between," i. e. between their land and that of the Iroquois). The 
Frencli gave tlie name La Merc des Iroquois ; but for nearly half a century the 
English and Dutch called it Corlear's Lake, in memory of a Dutch officer wlio was 
drowned there. In the summer of 160;) a small exploring party set out from Que- 
bec under Samuel de Champlain, i the Governor of Canada, and ascended the St. 

1 Champlain was born of n good family of the province of Saintonge. in 15"0. He became 
a naval officer, and was aiterwards attached to the person of King Henri IV. In 1GU3 ho 
ascended the St. Lawrence River to the St. Louis Rapids, and thence until his death (ia 
108.5) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head-waters of the Ottawa. He wrs a 
brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one soul is of more im- 
portance than the fo"ndiug of a new empire." He established strong missions among tho 
Hurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 



FORT TICONDEROGA. Route 12. Ill 

Lawrence and Richelieu Rivers to the Chambly Rapids, where they met a war 
party of Hurons. All the Frenchmen, except Champlain and two others, were 
sent back to Quebec, and these three joined the Indian band. July 4, 1609, tliey 
entered the lake, and on tlie following day they defeated 20f) Iroquois at Crown 
Point, Champlain having shot their chief Avith his arquebus. The Hurons re- 
turned in triumph, bearing GO scaljis, and the valiant Frenchmen, having found 
the way to the lake, were left to make subsequent explorations and campaigns 
thereon. A series of war paities traversed this route for nearly two centuries, and 
the lake became the scene of long camiiaigns and desperate battles. 

In Jan., 160(5, Gov. de Courcelles ascended the lake with 500 men, in a fniitless 
raid on the Mohawk Valley ; and later in the same year, De Tracey, with 600 
Franco-Canadians, took this route on liis destructive foray on Central N. Y. In 
16S7 a war party of N. Y. MohaAvks ])assed down and destroyed the French settle- 
ment at Chambly with its people, and in lOS'.i the same route was traversed by 
900 Mohawks, who destroyed Montreal. In 1090, 210 French regulars and a swarm 
of Indians passed up in canoes and marched to Schenectady, wliich they leduced 
to ruins, kiUing 60 of its people and carrying off a great amount of plunder. In 
August, 1690, Capt. Schuyler, witli 53 Cliristians and 12.0 savages, went down in 
boats to La Prairie, where they killed and cajitured 31 persons, and burnt the 
village. In 1691 Peter Schuyler, with 350 men, attacked the same place, but was 
beaten otf with a loss of 46 men. In 1095 the chivalrous Count de Fronteuac (a 
relative of Madame de Main tenon) launched a fleet of small craft, and passed up 
witli 400 Frenchmen and 250 Algonquins, with wliom he laid waste the Moliawlt 
country. After a daring foray, whicli reached almost to tlie forts at Albany, he 
retired in s ifety, and laden Avith plunder and prisoners, although pursued by 
Schuyler and tlie Hudson Valley people. The lake Avas held by the French, and 
commanded by their fortihcations until 1759. In 1745 Marin led 300 Canadians 
in a fleet of canoes uji the lake, Avlience he marched on Saratoga and destroyed it, 
and scores of marauding parties followed tliis route in their forays on the Iludson 
and Ct)n:i. River towns. In 1759 Lord Amherst built a flotilla in Soutli Bay, 
Avith a flagship mounting 18 guns, in wiiicli Capt. Loring swept and Avon tliis 
inland sea. The military and naA'al operations around the lake Avill be considered 
in comicction with the points of action. 

The old and deserted steamhoat-pier is 1 M. from Whitehall, and 
near the subnierged hulks of the British and American frigates wliich 
fotigiit at Plattsburgh. Near this pohit is Put's Rock, where Israel Put- 
nam and his rangers ambushed and defeated the Franco-Indian forces of 
Marin. Soon after leaving the pier, Snuth Bay is seen on thel., over- 
looked by Saddle Mt. and Diameter Rock (N. shore ; 1,300 ft. high). 
From Whitehall to Ticonderoga (24 M. ), and even to CroAvn Point, the 
lake is very narrow, and appears like a river. The grades and deep cut- 
tings of the N. Y. and Canada R. R. are visible on the W. shore, beyond 
which are the bold hills of Dresden, Avith Black Mt. as their chief. The 
marshy shores of Dresden Avere named Le Grand Alarais by the French, 
and are noAv known as the Drowned Lauds. 

Fort Ticonderog-a. 

Fort -Ticonderoga Hotel, 83 a daj', an ancient mansion-house near the landing. 
Steamboats leave for Bnrlingt.on and Plattsburgh about noon, daily, making the 
run in 6-7 hr.s. The old and inconA'enient staw-ronte to Lake George (4 M.'; see 
page 110) has been replaced by a railro.nd. The Chamolain R. R passes near 
the fort, on the W. There is also a station nljont 1 M. N. of the fort, ])er- 
taining to a branch of the Central Vermont R. R., which diverges from the main 
line at Leicester Junction. 



112 Route 12. FORT TICONDEROGA. 

The picturesque ruins of the fort crown the high hill near the steam- 
boat pier, and command extensive lake-views. It is on a high and rocky- 
peninsula, 500 acres in extent, surrounded on three sides by water, and 
bounded on the W. by a swamp. The sally-port where the Green Mt. 
Boys entered, the old well, the crumbling walls of the barracks surround- 
ing the parade, and the well-defined dry ditches beyond the ramparts, 
may easily be recognized. In one of the E. bastions is a deep and cavern- 
ous vault, which it is surmised was the garrison bakery. On the high 
point to tlie S. E. is the well-preserved Grenadiers' Battery, erected to 
command the landing-place, and to defend the long bridge to Mt. Inde- 
pendence. There is another small battery surrounded by a wet ditch, on 
the plain to the N. ; and the forests to the S. and W. are furrowed with 
intrenchments and redoubts. From the ramparts of the fort Mt. Inde- 
pendence is seen to the S. E. across the lake, and Mt. Defiance is to the 
S. W. across the widenings of the outlet of Lake George. The latter 
summit is 800 ft. above the lake, and is best ascended by following the 
nearly obliterated military road of Burgoyne from Ticonderoga village (3 
M. from the fort to the summit). Others, who avail themselves of the 
fine rowing which is obtained here, cross the bay in a boat and scramble 
up through the forest. " From this height the eye takes in a range along 
the lake of more than 30" M., and a more beautiful rural panorama can- 
not often be found." The view includes the rich plains of Vermont, the 
Green and Adirondack Mts., and the gray ruins below. Roads run 
from Ticonderoga S. E. 10 - 12 M. to Hague, on Lake George, and to 
Paradox Lake (13 M.) and Schroon Lake (22 M.) in the W. 

TicoNDEROOA is a modification of Cheondei"ogo, tlie old Iroquois name for this 
locality. It meant " sounding waters," and ai)plied especially to the falls on tlie 
outlet of Lake George. The point was occupied in 1690 by Capt. Glen, with a 
picket of 33 men, and defensive works were bnilt. In the following year the 
Christian and Mohawk forces of Maj. Schuyler united here and advanced to their 
defeat at La Prairie. The place was then deserted for many years, until Baron de 
Dieskau occupied it in 1754, and in 1755 Montcalm moved up to it with a large 
French army, and built extensive works, which he named Fort Carillon i ("chime 
of bells "), in allusion to the musical cascades in the vicinity. Daring deeds of 
partisan warfare became frequent in the vicinity, and American rangers engaged 
the Canadian hunters and French infantry among the defiles and islands. In 
July, 1758, Gen. Abererombie advanced to attack" the fort at the liead of 7,000 
regulars and 9,000 provincial troops. The English engineers reported that the 
works were weak, and could be carried by storm, and large reinfoi'cements were 
hastening to join the garrison, so Abercrombie ordered that an assault in column 
should be made upon the fort. In advancing through the forest the Beam regi- 
ment boldly engaged and checked the vanguard (composed of the 1st N. Y. and 
1st and 3d Conn.). Israel Putnam and Lord Howe hurried to the front, and the 
gallant young Howe was almost instantly killed. "His manners and his virtues 
made him the idol of the army," and " in him the soul of the army seemed to ex- 
pire." (He is buried at tlie S. W. Corner of St. Peter's Church in Albany, and 
Massachusetts erected a monument to him in Westminster Abbey.) The French 
detachment was exterminated (200 killed, 148 prisoners), but the Anglo-American 

1 " Le Drapeau de Carillon " is an old Canadian song, which may still be heard on the 
Lower St. Lawrence. 



FORT TICONDEROGiV. Route 12. 113 

troops became entangled in the forest and began to fire on each other, until they 
were withdrawn. At 1 p. m., July 8, 1758, Abercrombie ordered out 6,000 chosen 
troops to storm the French works, which consisted of a line of breastworks 8 ft. 
high, fronted by a belt of abatis 300 ft. broad, and defended by batteries at each 
end (near the water). 3,250 French regulars formed the garrison, composed of the 
regiments of Languedoc, La Sarre, Royal Roussillon, BeiTi, La fieine, Guyenne, 
and the remnant of Beam. The English combatants were the 27th Enniskillen, 
42d Highlanders, 44th, 46th, 55th, 60th Royal Americans, and 80th; and the Pro- 
vincials had the 1st and 2d N. J., 1st, 2d, and 3d Conn., and regiments from N. Y., 
Mass., and R. I. (also 500 Mohawks). The rangers, light infantry, and Royal 
Americans drew the first fire of the enemy, and were followed by the 55th and 
Lord John Murray's Highlanders (the " Black Watch," renowned for its conduct 
at Fontenoy, and composed mostly of Campbells and MacGregors). The High- 
land charge was superb, and crossed the abatis and ramparts under a heavy ar- 
tillery fire, but the little forlorn hope of Campbells were bayoneted as soon as 
they entered the works, dying on the verge of victory. For 4 hours there ensued 
a succession of fearless charges and bloody repulses, "and upon that rude barrier, 
which the simplest manoeuvre would have avoided, or one hour of well-plied 
artillery would have swejjt away, the flower of British chivalry was crushed and 
broken." At 7 in the evening, after two final and disastrous failures in attacks 
on the positions of the Guyenne and Royal Rousillon regiments, a panic seized 
the army, which broke up and fled in wild confusion (though unpursued) to Lake 
George. The French lost 380 men in the action, while several English vessels 
were sunk in the lake by the artillery of the fort, and 1,942 men (including 647 
Highlanders and 25 Scottish ofiicers) of the Anglo-American army lay dead and 
wounded on the plain. The victors raised over the battle-field a lofty cross bear- 
ing an inscription on brass, " Pone jirincipeseorum sicut Oreb et Zeeb et Zalmunna " 
(Judges vii. 25 and viii. 12). In July, 1759, Lord Amherst advanced on Ticon- 
deroga with 11,000 men and 54 cannon, and the French garrison, weakened by the 
necessity of meeting Wolfe before Quebec, evacuated the place after burning the 
barracks and exploding the magazine. 

At dawn, May 10, 1775, the fort was surprised and taken by 85 New England 
men, who had crossed the lake on the previous evening. They were commanded 
by Ethan Allen and Benedict Arnold, who led them througli the sally-port and 
out on the parade, when (it is said) Allen aroused Capt. Delaplace, the com- 
mandant, and demanded the surrender of the fort " in the name of the Great 
Jehovah and the Continental Congress." 48 soldiers laid down their arms, and 
174 cannon and vast supplies of ammunition were taken by the bold patriots. 
When Burgoyne advanced from Canada, in the summer of 1777, and Arnold's fleet 
had been defeated on the lake, Maj.-Gen. Arthur St. Clair held the fort with 2,546 
Continentals, 900 militia, and 47 fortress cannon. He dismantled the works to- 
ward Lake George, and strongly fortified Mt. lndei)endence (remnants of the star- 
fort and graves of hundreds who died of camp-distemper are now found in the 
forest on the mt.). The bridge to Mt. Independence was a strong floating struc- 
ture, supported by 22 sunken piers and many floats. Burgoyne's fleet was can- 
nonaded and forced to keep out of gunshot, but the British succeeded in getting 
heavy guns upon Mt. Defiance, from which a plunging* fire was opened on the 
fort. On the night of July 6th, St. Clair evacuated the now untenable position, 
and would have escaped scathless, but that Gen. de Fermoy set fire to his quar- 
ters on Mt. Independence. The aroused enemy made rapid pursuit, defeated the 
American rear-guard at Hubbardton, and took the artillery and stores at White- 
hall, with 200 batteaux and the remnant of Arnold's fleet. 10 weeks later. Col. 
Brown, of Mass., with 1,000 men of New England, captured th^ outworks of 
Ticonderoga, with 200 batteaux, a war vessel, 5 cannon, and 293 jirisoners, and 
delivered 100 American prisoners and a Continental flag. The fort was dismantled 
a few weeks later, and in 1780 was reoceupied by Gen. Haldimaud with troops 
from Montreal. Since that time Ticonderoga has been deserted, and its well- 
cut stone and brick have been carried away by vessel-loads to the rising villages 
on the lake. It is now sealed against such invasions, and is recognized as one of 
the classic grounds of American history. July 18, 1872, the Vermont Historical 
Society had a field-day here, and there were 10^000 i)eople present. "There the 
first trophy of our war for independence was won, and there a soldier of the Brit- 
ish realm first stooped a prisoner to the aroused colonists, driven to rebellion by 
unnatural oppression." (Los sing.) 

H 



114 Route 12. CROWN POINT. 

After leaviTig Ticoiuleroga tlie steamer passes tlirougli tlie long railway- 
bridge and runs N. to Larrabee's Landing, in the Verniont town of Shore 
ham. Fine views of tlie mts. on either side are now gained. The next 
landing is at Crown Point, with its summer hotel (Gunnison's) facing 
down the lake. 6 M. N. is the ancient fortress, and Ticonderoga is 9 JVl. 
S. A road leads S. W. to Paradox and Schroon Lakes; and the old 
State road runs W. to Schroon River {Root's Inn; 18 M.)and the S. 
Adirondacks (to Long Lake, 60 M. ; see Route 17). A short distance be- 
yond this landing the steamer passes through the Narrows between Chim- 
oiey Point (on the E.) and 

Crown Point. 

The ruins of the fortress of Crown Point occupy the promontory be- 
tween Lake Champlain and the broad Bulwagga Bay. They may be 
reached either by boat from Port Henrj"^, or by carriage around the bot- 
tom of the bay. There is a lighthouse on the outer point, but otherwise 
it is abandoned to its ancient remains of strength and pride. The penin- 
sula is 1 M. wide, and has only a thin robe of earth over limestone ledges, 
whose cutting away cost enormously during the erection of the fortress. 
Tlie ramparts (^ M. around, 25 ft. high, and 25 ft. thick, faced with 
stone) and ditches of the fort, its broad parade, and the massive walls of 
the ruined barracks, are worthy of inspection ; while from the northern 
bastions are gained beautiful * views of the Green Mts. in the E. and the 
rugged foot-hills of the Adirondacks in the W., with the lake stretching 
away for many leagues in the N. The main gate was in the N. curtain, 
and a covered way led to the lake from the N. E. bastion, in which was a 
deep well cut in the rock (8 ft. in diameter and 90 ft. deep). Tradition 
affirmed that vast treasures had been concealed in this well, and it was 
cleared out in 1824 by a company of 50 men. There have been many 
other excavations in this vicinity in hope of recovering French treasure ; 
but only iron and lead have yet been found. The ramparts are brilliant 
with blood-red thorn-apples (in their season) on dense thickets of bushes. 
These peculiar shrubs are found nowhere else in the State, and are said to 
have been brought from France. 200 yards N. E. of the great British 
fort, and on the steep bank of the lake, are the ruins of the older French 
work. Fort St. Frederic, a pentagonal star-fort, with bastioned angles. 

In July, 1609, Champlain, 2 Frenchmen, and 60 Hurons came up to this point 
in 24 bark canoes, and here they lauded and defeated the Iroquois, after passing 
the night in martial rites and in singing war-songs. This was 2 months before 
Heudrick Hudson discovered the noble river which bears his name. In 1C31 the 
French occupied Point a la Chevelurc (opposite this place), where they built a 
stone fort with 5 cannon and established a farming community. In 1666 De 
Com-celles ascended by boats (with 600 men) to Crown Point, whence he marched 
into the Mohawk country, and, on his subsequent retreat, the force was halted 
here for several days to "enable the stragglers to come up. The destroyers of 
Schenectady were pursued to Crown Point (in the winter of 1690), but here they 



SPLIT ROCK. Route 12. 115 

put on skates and escaped. In 1731 Louis XV. of France caused Point dc la 
Couronne to be luitilied, to close the route to Montreal and to atlbrd a base of 
8upi>lies and a menaciiig fortress on the Anylo-Aniericau frontier. Tlie works 
were named Fort yt. Fretleric, in honor of Frederic Maurepas, Premier of France, 
and consisted of a wail of limestone, high and thick, enclosing stone barracks, a 
church, and a tall bomb-proof tower, — the armament consisting of 62 small can- 
non. Tlie shores were then much more thickly settled than now, a town of 1,500 
inhabitants being near tiie fort, with gardens and vineyards, stores and paved 
streets. The French project was to establish a new Canadian province, extending 
from the Connecticut River to Lake Ontario, with Crown Point as its capit;d, and 
the seignories of Aliana and Hoc(piart had already been surveyeil and settled. 
Scores of marauding parties marched from this fortress to carry tire and sword 
upon the English settlements ; but in 1759, after the fall of Ticonderoga. the 
place was evacuated. Lord Amhei*st then executed the orders of Pitt to erect 
here a fortress of the first class, to " cover the whole country and insure its quiet 
and peaceable possession." The enormous works then constructed cost the 
British government •"? 10,000,000. In 177:5 the barracks took fire and the powder- 
magazine blew up, i)artially demolishing the works ; and in 1775 Warner's Green 
• Mt. Boys captured tiie fort with its armament of 114 guns. 7,000 Americans re- 
i tl-eated herefmm Canada in 177(), and hundreds died from the small-pox. In 1777 
; Burgoyne made the fort his main depot of supplies in the advance on Albany. 

Rounding Crown Point, the steamer reaches Port Henry (2 inns), which 
! is picturesquelj' situated at the mouth of Bulwagga Bay, near Mt. Bul- 
wagga (tlie N. end of the Kayaderosseras Mts. ). There are large iron- 
works liere, with an annual exportation of 300,000 tons of ore, which is 
mostly manufactured elsewhere. There are inexhaustible supi)lies of mag- 
netic ore in the hills to the W., and several mines are being profitably 
worked (a R. R, runs 7 M. N. W. to Moriah, at the mines). After leav- 
ing Port Henry, the Adirondacks are seen looming in the W,, Dix's Peak 
and the Giant of the Valley being foremost ; wliile near the lake is Bald 
Peak. The steamer next touches at Westport (Person's Hotel), on 
Northwest Bay, whence mail-stages run W. to Elizabethtown, Keene, and 
the Saranac Lakes (see Route 20). Soon afterward the spires of the city 
of Vergennes are seen on the E. shore, and the ruins of Fort Cassin, 
where Lieut. Cassin of the U. S. Navy repelled an attack on Macdonough's 
i fleet, which was being fitted out at Vergennes. Split Eock is soon 
' reached on the W. .shore, and is a rock | acre in extent and 30 ft. high, 
which is separated from the mt. (the northernmost of the Schroon range) 
by a deep cleft 12 ft. wide. 

This remarkable cliff was anciently called Regiochne, or the Rock Regio, from 
an eminent Indian chief who was drowned here. It was the boundary between 
the Mohaw^^s and the Algonquins, whose territories were resjjectively occupied 
by the English and French ; and in 1710 it was acknowledged as the limit of the 
English dominions (Treaty of Utrecht). In 1700 the Rock Regio was fixed as the 
boundary between New York and Canada, leaving the present sites of Burlington, 
St Albans, Plattsburgh, Ogdeusburgh, etc., to the latter province. This limit was 
officially acknowledged as late as 1774 ; but in the following years the Americans 
passed it under arms, and won, and still hold, the territory for 77 M. to the N. 

Rounding Split Rock, the steamer soon reaches the landing at Essex (Royce's 

Hotel), a pleasant village under the hills. 5-6 M. N., near the mouth of the 

Boquet River, a colony was planted by the pioneer, Gilliland. in 1765. The set- 

t tier.-i aided Montgomery's army in its march, and for this they were driven away 

by Gen. Burgoyne. The British army encamped here for 6 days, during which 



1 1 G Route 12. BURLINGTON. 

Biirgoyne made that celebrated speech to the Indian auxiliaries which Edmund 
liurke denounced in Parliament. The. rear division of the retreating British 
garrison of Crown Point was captured here by the Vermonters. 

Near the middle of tlie lake is the dark cliff called Rock Dunder, 
Avhich was once cannonaded by a British war-vessel. It was suspected 
of being a Yankee infernal machine. Shelhurnc Bay is now seen opening 
on the Vermont shore. It is 4 M. long, and is the winter quarters and 
ship-yard of the Champlain steamers. Camel's Hump Mt. looms up due 
E. ; and the islets called the Four Brothers (and by the French, Les Isles 
ties Quaires Vents) are passed in the middle of the lake. On the W. are 
the Boquet Mts., tenninating in the lofty cliffs about Perou Bay. 
Passing on into the widest part of the lake, a white city is seen on the 
N. E., and the steamer soon reaches 

Burlington. 

Hotels. — American House, S3 a day ; Van Ness House ; both on the public 
Sijuare. Sieumers twice daily vip or down Lake Champlain ; also steam-ferry twice 
daily to Port Kent and Plattsburyh. Railroads to New York. 310 M. ; to Boston, 
L'32 M.; to the White Mts.. 1G5 M. ; to Saratoga, 130 M.; to St. Albans, 32 M.; to 
Montreal, 95 M. (see Osgood's New Kngland). 

Burlington, " the Queen City of Vermont," is beautifully situated on 
a long sloping hill on the E. shore of Burlington Bay. It is the largest 
city in the State, and has a population of 15,000, with 15 churches and 2 
banks. In 1798 Burlington had 815 inhabitants, and between 1860 and 
1870 the gain in population was 105 per cent. It became a city in 1865, 
and is now the third lumber-mart in America. Most of the lumber is 
brought from the Canadian forests, and is assorted and planed here; after 
"vvhich it is sent by rail to Boston and other Eastern cities. Immense 
(piantities are loaded directly from the cars to the vessels (in Boston) 
which convey them to distant ports. 40-50,000,000 ft. of lumber are 
sent away from Burlington yearly. The wharves and grounds about the 
freight-station are usually covered with piles of plank and boards. Sev- 
eral of the churches are fine buildings, especially the * Cathedral of St. 
Mary, a large and picturesquely irregular structiire. St. Paul's Episcopal 
Church is an old Gothic building of blue limestone, with stained windows. 
This is the church of the bishop, whose diocese (the State of Vt.) has 27 
priests and 2,655 conmvunicants. There are also handsome Congregational 
and Methodist churches, built of Burlington stone. Near the square, in the 
centre of the city, is a neat government building (Post-Office and Custom- 
House), and the elegant Court-House of Cliittenden County. 

The University of Vermont occupies an eligible situation on the summit 
of Burlington Hill, 1 M. from the Bay, and 367 ft. above it. This insti- 
tution was incorporated in 1791, and began operations in 1800, the Pres- 
ident being the only instructor for the first 6 years, when there were 
about 30 students. Its connection with the State is but nominal, and 



BURLINGTON. Route 12. 117 

lias brought it no emolument since its foundation, when Vermont en- 
dowed it with a grant of 29,000 acres of land. In 1813 the building was 
taken by the United States, and was used throughout the war for an 
arsenal and barracks. In 1824 the buildings were burnt, and were re- 
built in 1825, the corner-stone being laid by the Marquis de Lafayette. 
In 1S71 the University had 16 instructors, lli students, and 900 alumni, 
and the Medical School had 5 instructors and 25 students. In 1865 the 
State Agricultural College was united with the University, and has able 
instructors and costly instrumeiits, but wants a student. There are 
60,000 specimens in the natural-history cabinets, and 15,000 volumes 
in the library. The 3 halls of the University have been joined in one 
building, which is surmounted by a bright tin-covered dome, whence is 
gained a superb * view. 

On the W., Lake Champlain is seen from below Crown Point on the S. to 
Plattsburgh on the N., witli uuiiierous isl.uul.-i surrounded by the briglit watei-s 
which have become cdassic in American history. The lake is 10 M. wide here, 
and near the middle are the Four Brothers islets. Beyond the lake, the ancient 
blue Adirondacks till the horizon, over GO peaks being visible on a clear day, 
prominent among which are Mclntyre, Whiteface, and Marcy, the latter being 
the highest peak between the White and the Alleghany Mts. The plains of 
Chittenden County are seen in tlie N. E., over the village of AVinooski ; and in 
the E. are the stately Green Mts., the Verts Monts for which the State was named. 
Mt. Mansfield, Camel's Hump, and other well-known jieaks are plainly visible, 
with a vast exiianse of farm-lands filling the foreground. Burlington City is 
overlooked on the W., stretching down to the shores of its bay. The * sunset 
over tlie lake and the Adirondacks, when seen from this dome, or from the little 
park N. "W. of the central square, is full of beauly. " Si)lendor of landscaiie is 
the peculiar boast or' Burlington," said President Uwight, in 1798 ; and Fredrika 
Bremer speaks of the distant " mountain forms, picturesquely combined with a 
certain degree of grandeur and boldness." The view looking W. toward the 
Adirondacks she pronouiu^ed superior to any lake-view which she had ever seen, 
excepting only one on Lake Geneva. 

Near the University is the Green Mt. Cemetery, where Ethan Allen is 
buried under a Tuscan column 42 ft. high, which is surmounted by a 
statue of the brave chieftain. The village of Winooski is at the lower 
falls on the Winooski River, near the romantic ravine at the High Bridge, 
where the impetuous stream has cut a gorge through the soliil i-ock, 90 
ft. deep and 70 ft. wide. 

Burlington is an academic city, having, besides the University, several fine 
schools, among which is the Female Seminary (founded in lS.'3o)," which has 900 
alumme. The Vermont Kpiscopal Institute is on Rock Point, 2-.'3 M. 
from the city, and near the laue. It lias a fine marble building in collegiate 
Gothic architectiu-e, with a small but elegant chapel, a massive tower, and a 
library which is rich in patristic literature. The theological department has 5 
professors and 50 students, with 231 alumni, and is said to be the most expensive 
divinity-school in the Union. About 2 M. S. of the city is the U. S. Marine 
hospital, fronting on the lake. 

Burlington was settled about 1775, and was named in honor of the Burling 
family (of New York), M'ho were among the grantees. It lay on the route by the 
Winooski valley, which had been so often traversed by the Northern Indians in 
their forays on Mass. It was fortified and garrisoned by 4,000 troops in the War 
of 1812, and in the War of 1861-65 sent many soldiers to the national armies. 



118 Route 12. AUSABLE CHASM. 

Leaving Burlington, Juniper Island is passed on the 1., and Rock Point 
on the r., and the steamer runs N. W. across the lake to Port Kent, an 
iron-exporting station under Mt. Trembleau. The old Watson mansion 
is seen on a hill over the village. Stages run from Port Kent (leaving 
early) to the Adirondacks and Saranac Lakes (see Pioute 19) ; also to 
Keeseville {Au Sable House; Adirondack), 5 M. distant. 2-3 M. "W., 
on the Keeseville road, is the * Ausable Chasm. Near Keeseville, the 
Ausable River flows between high banks of sandstone to a fall over 20 ft. 
high, beyond which it descends a line of white rapids to the * Birming'- ' 
ham Falls (Chasm House, in the adjacent hamlet). The river here 
plunges over a precipice 60 ft. high, and enters a profound and narrow 
chasm which is bordered by vertical walls of Potsdam sandstone, 70-150 
ft. high. The river is compressed into the width of 8-30 ft., and rushes 
down with great velocity. Lower down, the walls are about 50 ft. apart 
and 100 ft. high, and extend for ^ M. like great piers of artificial 
masonry. The length of the chasm is nearly 2 M.; and its sides and top 
are frhiged with cedars, and are cut by lateral fissures. Fredrika Bremer 
said that "a visit to the chasm would reward a voyage from Europe" ; 
and it is claimed that it successfully rivals the famous Swiss Gorge die 
Trient. A bridge crosses the river in the spray of the Falls, and a long 
stairway descends (in 212 steps) to the Table Rock and the bottom of the 
gorge. Railings, walks, and stairways have lately been made there, and 
the numerous interesting points in the chasm may be visited with ease. 
The new and first-class Lake View Hotel is near the entrance. 

6-8 M. N. of Port Kent, tlif. steamer traverses the narrow channel between 
Valcour Island and the iiiaiuhiiKl, where Arnold's fleet of 15 small vessels was 
attacked by a powerful British squadron. After a hot day's battle, in which 3 
vessels were sunk, the Americans attenii)ted to retreat by night, but were closely 
pursued. The flag-ship Congress was surrounded by hostile ships, and fought 
desperately for 4 hours, until the van and centre of the fleet liad escaped, when 
Arnold ran her ashore and blew her up. 

Grand Isle, or South Hero, is now seen on the N. E., and the steamer 
enters Cumberland Bay, passes the long mole, with its lighthouses, and 
stops at Plattsburgh (* Fouquet's Hotel, a summer house, with spacious 
gardens overlooking the lake; Cumberland House, $2.50 a day; Wither- 
elVs Hotel). Plattsburgh, the capital of Clinton County, is a flourishing 
town of about 6,000 inhabitants, situated at the mouth of the Saranac 
River, and benefited by a large water-power, on which are located lumber 
and flour mills. Trinity Church and the Clinton County buildings front 
on the Park, near Margaret St.; and farther S. on that street is the fine 
building of the U. S. Custom-House and Post-Office. On Cornelia St. is 
St. Peter's R. C. Church (Oblate Fathers), near which is a quaint old 
French nunnery. Near the Post-Office is the fine stone Presbyterian 
Church, also the new Catholic Church of St. John. On a sandy plain 



PLA.TTSBURGH. Route 12. 119 

1 M. S. of the village are the extensive U. S. Barracks, a frontier military 
post of some importance. 

Ill Sept., 1814, after Izard's army had marched to Sackett's Harbor, Gen. 
Macomb was left in command at Plattsburgh with 3,500 men (including militia, 
broken detachments, and invalids). Sir George Prevost, witli 14,000 veteran 
troops, advanced rapidly against this small force, designing to occupy the country 
as far down as Ticonderoga. Tlie British vanguard was badly cut up by several 
attacks of the militia, on the advance from Chazy, while Macomb erected 3 foi-ts 
to cover the village on the peninsula between the Saranac River and Lake Cham- 
jilain. Over 200 British were killed and wounded on the advance, and their lirst 
siege-battery was destroyed by a bold sortie. On the moniing of Sejit. 13, 1814, 
Prevost opened a heavy fire from his artillery, under whose protection 3 col- 
umns of choice troops attempted to cross the Saranac River to storm the 
American works. Three of these assaults were repulsed by the riflemen and the 
cannonade from the forts ; but the third column crossed at tlie upper ford, 
driving back the militia of Essex County. A strong force of Vermonters was 
moved up to the support of tlie latter corps, and a sanguinary action was immi- 
nent, when suddenly the British force was recalled across the Saranac. The de- 
feat of the i-oyal fleet on the lake had caused Prevost to suspend the attack. The 
Americans fought the battle with 1,500 regulars, 700 N. Y. militia, and 2,500 men 
of Vermont. The N. Y. and Vt. militia were now rapidly converging on Platts- 
burgh, and a letter prepared by Rev. Eleazer Williams (" The Lost Bourbon 
Prince," — then in the American service) and sent so as to be captured by Prevost, 
gave the false information that 10,000 Vermonters and 9,000 N. Y. militia were 
advancing on the British line of retreat. Dispirited by the loss of the fleet, 
alarmed at the gathering of the State troops, ami apprehensive of a second Bur- 
goyne's surrender, Prevost withdrew his splendid army during the night, leaving 
his hospitals and army stores. The British lost 2,000 men in this brief campaign, 
while the American loss was less than 150. The incompetency of Sir George 
Prevost was bitterly censured in Canada, and procured his disgrace by the home 
government ; wliile Gen. Macomb received the proudest honors of the Republic, 
and was geueral-in-chief of its armies from 1836 until his death in 1841. 

At 8 o'clock in the morning of Sept. 8, when the royal troops were advancing 
on the Saranac fords, the British fleet rounded Cumberland Head. It was led by 
Commodore Downie, and consisted of the Confiance, 38, the Linnet, 16, the Chiib 
and the Finch, 11 guns each, and 12 gunboats. The American fleet, anchored in a 
double line between Crab Island and Cumberland Head, was commanded by Com- 
modore Macdonough, and consisted of the ,S'ara^O(/a, 2Q, Eagle, 20, Ticon'dero<ja, 
II, Preble, 7, and ten gunboats. Tlie British had 95 guns and 1,095 men. and the 
Americans had 86 guns and 852 men ; the oi'dnance, on both sides, being unusually 
heavy. Macdonough, with his ships cleared for action, knelt on Jthe deck of 
the Sj.ratoga, surrounded by his officers and men, and invoked the Divine blessing 
on the issue of the figlit. The Eagle and Saratoga commenced the action, and 
Dowiiie's flag-ship, the Confiance, moved up close to the Saratoga, and, with one 
tremendous point-l)lank broadside from her 16 double-shotted 24-pounders, dis- 
abled 40 of the Siiratoja's men, and covered her trembling decks with ruin. The 
L nie raked her from how to stern, but still her fire was kept up, until the whole 
starltoard battery was useless. By a skilful manoeuvre she was quickly wound 
around so that lier uninjured larboard broadside bnre on the Confiance, wliicli 
was soon compelled to surrender under its terrible fire. Then, after a pounding 
of 15 minutes, the Linnet also struck her colors ; while the Chub had yielded to 
the Eagle, and the Finch had been disabled by the Ticonderoga, and had surren- 
dered to the battery on Crab Island (manned by invalids from the hospital). 
Meantime the British gunboats had driven the Preble in shore, and assailed the 
Ticonderoga on all sides. Tlie galleys came up valiantly, but were swept by her 
cannon until they were forced to flee to Cumberhmd Plead. After 2^ hours of 
incessant cannonading, the whole Britisli fleet surrendered, although the royal 
gunboats afterwards escai)ed, the vic;torious vessels being too much crippled to 
follow them. The American lo.ss was 104 (49 killed), and the British loss was 
about 166. Com. Downie was killed early in the action by being struck in the 
groin by a 24-pounder cannon which had been dismounted by a ball and 
huiied in-board. Macdonough was crushed to the deck by the fall of a heavy 



120 Route 12. ROUSE'S POINT. 

boom, which had been cut off by a cannon-ball, and soon afterward he was 
stunned by being hit by the flying head of one of his sub-officers. Medals, honoi-s, 
and estates were showered upon him after the A-ietory ; insomuch that he said, 
"In one month, from a poor lieutenant I became a rich man." Downie and 15 
other officers of the contending forces rest in the Plattsburgh Cemetery ; and the 
men of the fleets who fell in the battle were buried on Crab Island. 

Daily stages run N. W. 16 M. from Plattsburgh over a plank road to 
Daiinemora (Clinton House), a small and straggling hamlet which has 
grown up around the Clinton State Prison. A long and gradual ascent 
leads to this place, which is 1,700 ft. above the sea and commands a pleas- 
ing view of the Green and Adirondack Mts, The pi-ison contains about 
500 convicts, who are employed in making iron and nails on State account ; 
and the stone buildings and forges are surrounded by a high stockade. 
5 M. from Danneraora is Chazy Lake {Meader House), a trout-abounding 
sheet, 4 by 1^ M., iinder the shadow of Mt. Lion. The usual way of en- 
trance to the Adirondack Mts. and the Saranac Lakes is by Plattsburgh 
(see Route 18). 

The Montreal and Plattsburgh R. R. runs N. to Montreal in 63 M. (connections 
unfavorable for rapid transit). Passing the unimportant stations, Bcekmantown, 
Chazy, and Sciota, it crosses the Ogdenshurgh R. R. at Mouer's Junction, and con- 
nects with a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway at Province Line. The train 
now passes the Canadian stations of Hemmingford, La Pigeoniere, St. Remi, and 
St. Isidore, and reaches the St. Lawrence at the ancient Indian village of Caugli- 
nawaga. Crossing by ferry, the cars are taken at Laehine, whence Montreal is 
i-eached in 8 M. 

Beyond Plattsburgh, Cumberland Head is rounded on the 1., and a N. 
course is taken between Grand isle and the shores of Clinton Co., N. Y. 
Beyond Point au Roche Isle La Molle is approached on the r. The shores 
now become more level, and the mts. are only seen in retrospective views. 
Point au Fer is passed on the 1., and the peninsula of Alburgh (wliicn 
shelters the beautiful Missistpioi Bay) is on the r. 25 M. N. of Platts- 
burgh the lake is ended at Rouse's Point (Massachusetts House), a 
dingy village with about 1,200 inhabitants. Fort Montgomery is 1 M. N 
of the place, and commands the Richelieu River, with 164 guns. After 
the works on this fort had gone on for some time, it was found to 
be in British territory, and was abandoned and named "Fort Blunder." 
A generous change of boundary gave the land to the U. S., and the fort 
was completed at a cost of $600,000. The Ogdensburgh R. R. (Route 14) 
crosses the efflux of the Richelieu River on a bridge 1 M. long, with a float- 
ing draw 300 ft. long. 

Alburgli ^liv^l\^?i {* Alhurgh Springs House) ure a few miles E. of Rouse's 
Point, a)Kl near Missisquoi Bay. The waters are impregnated with sulphur and 
lithia. and are nmch used for cutaneous complaints. The King of France gi-anted 
the peninsula of Alburgh as a feudal seigniory to Councillor Foucault, under whose 
orders it was settled in 1731. It was colonized by loyalist refugees late in the 
Revolutionary era ; and in 1837 it was one of the frontier towns from which the 
insurgents in the " Patriot War" made their raids into Canada. A few miles E. 
of Alburgh are the popular Highgate, Sheldon, and Missisquoi Springs (see Os- 
good's New England). 



MONTREAL. 



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I ' ST. JOHNS. Route 13. 121 

I The Grand Trunk Railway (branch line) nxns from Rouse's Point to 
I Montreal in 50 M., passing near Fort Montgomery, and following the 
' level 1. bank of the Richelieu River to St. Johns, a quaint and antiquated 

(village near the head of the Chambly Rapids. It is situated on a level 
plain, and is connected with the suburb of St. Athanase by a fine bridge 
. over the Richelieu. Near the military barracks is a large trophy-cannon 
from Sebastopol. Visitors at this quiet old town usually ride down the 
I river-road to Chambly/, a pleasant village 12 M. N. E., on a lake-like ex- 
r pansion of the Richelieu, called Chambly Basin. The Richelieu flows 
toward the N. E. almost parallel with the St. liawrence, which it joins at 
Lake St. Peter, 70 M. distant. 

The Marquis de Montcalm built a fort at St Johns, which was strengthened by 

. Gov. Carleton. Benedict Arnold'-; American fleet was repulsed in an attack in 

1775, but the fort was afterwards besieged by Gen. Montgomery, and after six 

weeks of blockade and cannonade it surrendered, Avith 600 British regulars and 48 

heavy cannon. It was stripped and abandoned on the advance of Burgoyne. 

) Chambly was fortified by the French in 1711, and in 1775 it had a strong stone 

j fort built by the British, with massive towers at its angles. Large supi>lies were 

stored here, but the commander was inefficient, and the works were captured by 

I tlie Americans in October, 1775. It was retaken by Burgoyne, and served as an 

' exercising gi-ound for the Montreal garrison until the English military evacuation 

of Canada. In the crypt of the Catholic Church is buried De Salabcrry, Seigneur 

de Cliambly, who resisted the Americans with such valorand success at the battle 

. of Chateaugay, that lie ever after bore the title of " the Canadian Leonidas." 12 

M. from Chambly is Beloeil Mt. Other excursions from St. Johns are to Scotch 

'. Mt. (6 M. over a good road), which conmiands a view of the Green Mts. and the 

I border counties, and to the Chambly Rapids on the Richelieu. St. Johns is the 

; N. terminus of the Central Vermont R. R. to St. Albans, Lowell, and Boston (see 

! Osgood'^ New England ; Route 29). 

I From St. Johns the line runs N. W. across the fair and fertile plains of 

the parish of La Prairie to .S^^. Lambert, crossing the Montreal River at 

. Lacaclie. At St. Lambert the train crosses the St. Lawrence River on the 

\ wonderful * Victoria Bridge, and then stops at MontreaL 

t " The sun suddenly shone out, gilding the lofty towers of the cathedral, 

the tall spires of the churches, the domes and tinned roofs that stretched 

along the river for more than 1^ M., to which the bold wooded mt. on the 

rear formed a majestic background. I was at once remhided of Auxerre, 

Montre\iil, and other old provincial cities of France." (Bayard Taylor.) 

13. Montreal. 

Hotels. —St. Lawrence Hall, on Great St. James St., $4.50 (Canadian) a day, 
Ottawa House : St. James ; Montreal House; Donnegana Hotel, Notre Dame St. ; 
Albion, S 2.00 a day. 

Shops. — Tlie most attractive are on Great St. James and Notre Dame Sts. 
American money is usually received at the reigning rates of exchange, but it is 
advisable to purchase sufficient C^unadian money for the tour at one of the banks 
on the Place d'Armes or St. James St. 

Carriages. — One-horse carriages, for 1-2 persons, 25c. a course (within the 

city), 60c. an hour; for 3-4 persons, 40c. a course, 70c. an hour. Two-hoi-se 

carriages, for 1 - 2 persons, 40c. a course, 75c. an hour; for 3-4 persons, 50c. a 

course, sgl.OO an hour. Horse-cars traverse the city on Craig, Bleury, and St 

6 



122 Route 13. MONTREAL. 

Catharine Sts. ; also on St. Marj', Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; and out St. 
Lawrence Main St. Stages run to all the atljateut villages, and to Chambly, St'. 
Sauveur, ami St. Canut. 

Hallways. — To New York, by Rutland and Albany, 420 M. (bv Lake Cham- 
jilain, ityo M.) ; to Rouse's Point, 50 M. ; to Toronto. 333 M. (14 - 15 hrs.) ; to De- 
troit, 564 M. ; to Chicago, 848 M. ; to Ottawa, 10() M. ; to Quebec, 173 M. (in 7-9 
hrs.); to Boston, 334 M. (by Lowell), or 344 M. by Fitchburg. Also to Newport, 
Vt., by the S. E. Railway, 79 M. ; to Waterloo, 7o'M. ; to Chambly and W. Farn- 
ham (35 M.). 

Steamers. — The Dominion Line steamships leave weekly (in summer) for 
Liverpool ; vessels of the Gult Ports S. S. Line to Quebec, Fatlier Point, Charlotte- 
town, Shediac, and Pi(t(>u,WL-ckly ; Canad. Navig. Co. boats daily to tlie river-ports 
to the W., Kingston, Toronto, and Hamilton (see Route 28) ; daily from L<Khinc to 
the UtUiwa river-porU aud Ottawa city ; local lines to the snudler river-villages 
as far as Cornwall, and also to the bay of Quiuto. Steamers of the Richelieu Co. 
run E. daily to bore), Three Rivers, Ratistan, and Quebec ; also to Boucherville, 
Varennes, liout de I'lsle. Laehenaie, L'Assoniption, a.id Terrebonne. Semi-weekly 
steamers asceud the Richelieu River by Belaiil to Chambly. 

In the year 1535 Jaques Cartier visited the triple-walled Indijm village of Hoch- 
elaga, and ascended the lofty hill behind it, which, from the beauty of its view, 
he named Mount Royal. The place was visiteil by Chamjilain in 1003, and was 
settled by a small French colony. A tiix-gatherer of Anjou .ind a jiriest of Paris 
heard celestial voices, bidding them to found a husjiital (Hotel Dieit) and a college 
of priests at Mount Royal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the 
Virgin and the Saviour. Filled with sacred zeal, and brought* togetlier by a singu- 
lar accident, these men won several nobles of France to aid their cau.se, then 
bought the Isle of Mount Royal and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Mon- 
treal. AVith the Lonl of JIaissonneuve and 45 associates, in a solemn ser\ice held 
in the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, they consecrated the island to the Holy 
Family under the name of Ville Marie de Montreal {Fvh., 1C41). May 18, 1642, 
Maissonneuve and his people landed at Montreal and raised an altar, before which, " 
when high mass was concluded, the priest said, " You are a grain of mustard-seed 
that shall arise and grow until its branches overshadow the land. You are few, 
but your work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children shall 
fill the land." The Hotel Dieu was founded in 1647, and in 1057 the Sulj'irians of 
Paris established a seminary here. In 10^9, 1,400 Iroquois Indians (Mohawks) 
stormed the W. suburb, and killed 200 citizens ; and soon afterward Col. Schuyler 
destroyed Montreal with troops from New York, leaving only the citadel, which 
his utmost efforts failed to reduce. In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men cap- 
tured the city, which then had 4,000 inhabit.uits, and was surrounded by a wall 
with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 Ethan Allen attacked Montreal with a 
handful of Verniontcrs, and was defeated and captured with 100 of his meu. Gen. 
Prescott sent tliein to England as " banditti," and Allen was imprisoned in Pen- 
dennis Castle. In the fall of 1775 the city was taken by the American army under 
Gen. Montgomery. With the close of the War of 1812, a brisk commerce set in, 
aud the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,767 inhabitants. The completion 
of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited the place, and its increase has for 
many years been steady, substantial, and rapid. 

Montreal, the metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and " the Queen 
of the St. Lawrence," is one of tlie most beautiful cities on the continent. 
It is situated on an island (at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Law- 
rence Rivers) containing 197 square M., which, from its fertility, has been 
called the garden of Canada. The city has 107,225 inhabitants (census of 
1871), with 60 churches, 20 banks, 7 daily and 36 other papers, and re- 
tTirns 3 members to the House of Commons. In 1872 there arrived here 
872 vessels from the ocean, aggregating 696,795 tons, bringing $ 40,088,665 
of imports, and carrying away ^ 18,171,384 of exports. The St. Law- 



MONTREAL. Route 13. 123 

rence is 1^ M. wide at this point, and the entire river-front is lined with 
lofty and massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, unequalled 
elsewliere in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. Petersburg. 
The commercial buildings are generally of stone and in plain and substan- 
tial architecture, while the number of fine public buildings is very large. 
I (»f the population are Catholics, many of whom are French, while the 
liright suburban villages are almost entirely inhabited by the French 
Canadians, Although Montreal is 800 I\L from the sea, it is the port 
wliich receives the larger part of tlie importations to Canada, and its 
iiianufactiiring interests are of great extent and importance. 

The Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill 
and St. James Sts., in which a statue of the Queen has been placed. The 
Cathedral Buildings, St. James Hotel, Y. M. C. A. Building, and St. 
Patrick's Hall front on this square. Going E. on Great St. James St., 
some fine banks, insurance and commercial buildings are passed, and op- 
posite the Corinthian colonnade of tlie Bank of Montreal (beyond St. 
Francis Xavier St., the Canadian Wall St.) the Place cTArmes is seen. 
Here is the lofty fa9ade of the * Church of Notre Dame (the largest 
church on the continent), which has seats for 10,000 persons. It is 255^ 
ft. long and 144^ ft. wide, and has a chancel-window 64 X 32 ft. in area. 
The interior is not interesting, and the pictures are poor. One tower has 
a cliime of bells, and in the other hangs " Gros Bourdon,'" the largest bell 
in America, weighing 15 tons. The towers are 220 ft. high, and are gen- 
erally open to visitors (small fee to the door-keeper). From their top is 
gained a panoramic view of the city and river, the Victoria Bridge and 
tlie islands. Alongside of the church is the ancient Seminary of St. 
Sulpice, on the site of the Seminary of 1657, as the church is near the 
site of the Notre Dame of 1671. The present Notre Dame was built in 
1824-29, and was consecrated by the Bishop of Telmesse in partibtis. 
Fronting on the Place d'Armes is the elegant Ontario Bank and the hall 
of the Canadian Grand Lodge of Masons. A short distance to the E. (on 
Noti-e Dame St.), an archway on the r. conducts to the extensive and 
secluded Convent of the Black Nuns. Farther on, the * Court House is 
seen on the 1., — a stately stone building (300 X 125 ft.) in Ionic archi- 
tecture, back of which is the Champ de Mars, or Parade Ground, an open 
space covering 50,000 square yards, and fronted by the Dominion Military 
School. Just beyond the Court House, the Jaques Cartier Square opens 
off Notre Dame St., and is encumbered by a dilapidated monument to 
Admiral Nelson. The Jaques Cartier Normal School (in the ancient 
French Government building) and the Institut Canadien (with a fine 
library) front on the Government Garden, at the head of this square. By 
the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the Bonsecours Market may 
be visited. This market is unrivalled in America, and is built of stone. 



124 Route 13. MONTREAL. 

at a cost of $ 300,000. It is 3 stories liigli, is surmounted by a dome, and 
presents an imposing front to the river. Tlie curious French costumes 
and language of the country-people who congregate here on market-days, 
as well as some peculiarities of the wares offered for sale, render a visit' 
very interesting. Alongside the market is the Bonsecours Church (accom- 
modating 2,000) which was built in 1658. A short distance beyond is the 
Quebec Gate Barrack, on Dalhousie Square; and the Victoria Pier makes 
out into the stream toward St. Helen's Isle (a fortified depot of ammuni- 
tion and war materiel). To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Viger 
Garden, with fountains and a conservatory, near which is Trinity Clmrch 
(Episcopal), built of Montreal stone in the early English Gothic style and 
accommodating 4,000 persons. N. of Trinity and also on St. Denis St. 
is St. James Church (Catholic), in the pointed Gothic style, with rich 
stained glass. Some distance E. of Dalhousie Square, on St. Mary St., 
is Molson's College (abandoned) and St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), 
with the Papineau Market and Square and the gi'eat buildings of Molson's 
brewery. 

McGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria 
Square to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in the 
intersecting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert Buildings are ricli 
and massive, while just beyond is St. Ann's Market, on the site of the old 
Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgin signed the obnoxious Re- 
bellion Bill, upon which he was attacked and insulted by a mob, who 
also drove the Assembly from the Parliament Hoiise, and burnt the build- 
ing. On account of these riots, Montreal was decapitalized the same 
year. Commissioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's Market and the elegant 
Custom House to the broad promenades on the river-walls. Ottawa St. 
leads W. to the heavy masonry of the Lachine Canal Basins and the vicin- 
ity of the Victoria Bridge. 

Radegonde St. and Beaver Hall Hill run N. from Victoria Square, 
passing Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. The 
armed congregation repulsed the Catholic assailants twice, and then the 
troops restored order, 40 men having been killed or badly wounded. Just 
above is the Baptist Church, overlooked by the tall Church of the Messiah 
(Unitarian), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few 
steps to the r., Lagauchetiere St. leads to St. Patrick's Church, a stately 
Gothic building, 240 x 90 ft., accommodating 5,000 persons, and adorned 
with a spire 225 ft. high. Tlie nave is very lofty, and the narrow lancet- 
windows are filled Avith stained glass. Near by, on Bleury St., are the 
massive stone buildings of St. Mary's College (Jesuit) and the * Church of 
the Gesti. Tlie nave of the church (75 ft. high) is bounded by rich com- 
posite columns ; and the transepts are 144 ft. long, and adorned with fine 
frescos in chiaroscuro. 



MONTREAL, Route 13. 125 

Over the high altar is the Crucifixion and the Adoration of the Spotless Lamb, 
above which is the Nativity. By the cohunns at the intersection of the nave 
and transepts are statues of St. Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, St. 
Luke with a child, and St. John with an eagle. On the ceiling of the nave are 
frescos of St. Thomas Repentant, tlie Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and Child 
amid angelic choirs. 8 medallions along the nave contain portraits of saints of 
the Order of Jesus. Over tlie Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. transept, is a fresco 
of the Trinity ; near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Gonzaga receiving his 
first conununion from St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To 
the r. is a fresco of St. Ignatius Loyola in the grotto of Manresa ; and on the 1. 
is Christ's ai)pearance to him near Rome, while above is Christ blessing little 
children. Over St. Joseph's Altar (r. transept) is a painting of the Eternal 
Father, on whose r. is St. Stanislaus Kostka, receiving the conununion from 
angels. On the 1. is the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki, on the r. is the 
MartjTdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland, and above is the Raising of Lazarus. 
On the ceiling is a large fresco of the Holy Family at AVork. 

St. Catharine St. leads W, to * Christ Church Cathedral, the best 
specimen of English Gothic architecture in America. It is built of Caen 
and Montreal stone, is crucifonn, and a stone spire 224 ft. high springs 
from the centre of the cross. The chancel has a fine windoAv and carved 
choir-stalls, and is laid with encaustic tiles; and the pointed roof of the 
nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by columns whose capitals are carved in 
imitation of Canadian plants. Near the Cathedral is a quaint octagonal 
chapter-house, used also for the diocesan library; and the house of the 
Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Canada) is in the same vicinity. To the 
N. is McGill College, which was endowed in 1814, and opened in 1828. 
It is below the reservoir on Mount Royal, whence a charming * view of 
the city and river may be gained. Some distance W. of the college, and 
fronting on the same street (Sherbrooke), is the great Seviinary of St. 
Sidpice, for the education of Roman Catholic priests. On St. Catharine, 
near St. George St., is the Asylum for the Blind, with a richly frescoed 
chapel, in light and delicate Romanesque architecture. W. of the Cathe- 
dral is the Erskine Church (Presbyterian); also the Church of St. James 
the Apostle, a Gothic building, with a graceful tower and spire. Near 
the old cemetery, on Dorchester St., are several churches, — the Wesleyan 
Methodist, in the English Gothic style; the American Presbyterian, an 
exact copy of the Park Church, in Brooklyn, N. Y. ; and the Episcopal 
Church of St. George, in decorated Gothic architecture, with deep tran- 
septs, costly stained windows, a timber roof, and fine school-buildings. 
On the E. side of this sqiiare is the Bishop's Palace, near the slowly 
rising walls of the new Catholic Cathedral, which is to be built on the 
model of St. Peter's at Rome (though smaller). Farther to the W., on 
Dorchester St., on the r., is the great cruciform building of the Gray 
Nunnery (founded 1G92), with a foundling hospital and a refuge for the 
infirm. JSIt. Ste. Marie is tlie large edifice across Dorchester St., which 
was built for a Baptist College, but is now a ladies' boarding-school, con- 
ducted by tlie Black Nuns, who have 57 schools and 12,000 pupils m 
Montreal. The order was founded by Marguerite Bourgeoys in 1659. 



12G Route U. CHATEAUGAY. 

Farther E. are the St. Paul and the Knox Cliurches. There are many 
other notable cliurches and public buildings in the city, and the streets 
toward Mount Royal are lined with villas. 

There are pleasant excursions from Montreal to Monklands and the 
Isle Jesus; to Hochelaga, the vast Convent of the Holy Name of Mary, 
and Longue Point; to the Tanneries, Cote St. Paul, and Lachine, by 
carriage; but the favorite trips are to the mt. and the rapids. "Around 
the Mountain,'" it is 9 M. by going out St. Lawrence Main St., by the 
immense Hotel Dieu, and up the slopes to the pretty village of Cote des 
Neiges. Ascending thence, a fine view is soon revealed, including the 
city, a broad expanse of the river, with the bridge, St. Helen's Isle, and 
Longueuil, and the blue peaks of Vermont in the S. On the slope of 
Momit Royal is the Cemetery, which is entered by stately portals, and 
shows some creditable monuments, especially those of the Molson family. 
The Lachine Rapids (see Route 28, adfinem) are visited by taking the 7 
A.M. train (at tlie Bonaventure station) to Lachine, whence the tourist 
descends the rapids in a steamer, and reaches Montreal about 9 A.M. 

The * A^ictoria Bridge is the longest and costliest in the world. It consists 
of 23 spans of 242 tt. each the central one, 330 ft.) resting on 24 i)iers of blue lime- 
stone masonry, cemented and iron-riveted, with sharp wedge-faces to the down 
current. The tubes containing the track are 19 X 16 ft., and the bridge is ap- 
proached by abutments 2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which, with the 6,594 ft. of 
iron tubing, makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to grade and over \\ M. 
from shore to shore. The bridge was begun in 1854, and finislied in 1859 ; it con- 
tains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost § 6,300,000, There is a 
be;nitifid view of the city from tliis j)oint. 

Ottawa and the routes thereto, see page 128. 

14. lake Champlain to Ogdensburg. 

By the Central Vermont R. R in 118 M. (-5-11 hrs.). Stations, Rouse's Point; 
Champlain, 4 M. ; Ferry's Mills, 7 ; Mooer's, 12 (crossing of the Montreal and 
Plattsl)urgh R. R.) ; Mooer's Forks, 15 ; Wood's Falls, 18 ; Altona, 21 ; Irona, 23 ; 
Forest, 2(3 ; Dannemora, 28 ; Ellenburgh, 29 ; Brandy Brook, 30 ; Clinton Mills, 
So ; Cherubusco, 37 ; Chateaugay, 45 ; Burke, 49 ; Malone, 57 ; Bangor, 63 ; 
Brush's Mills, 68 ; Moira, 71 ; Lawrence, 77 : Brasher Falls, 82 ; Knapp's, 90 ; 
Potsdam. 93 (crossing of Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg R. R.) ; Madrid, 101 ; 
Lisbon, 109 ; Ogdensburg, 118. 

Soon after leaving Rouse's Point the train reaches Champlain {Mansion 
House), a prosperotts factory-village on the Great Chazy River. 8 M. be- 
yond is Mooer's Junction (restaurant in station), where the line is crossed 
by the Montreal and Plattsburgh R. R. The line now traverses the 
extensive and desolate Chateaugay (pronounced Shattagee) Woods, with 
occasional glimpses of the highlands on either side. The soil is light and 
the settlements are small and rude. This wilderness was called Osarhe- 
hon by the Indians. At Chateaugay {Roberts House ; Union Hotel) the 
Chateaugay River flows through a gorge nearly 200 ft. deep, whicli is 
crossed by a railway viaduct 160 ft. high and 800 ft. long. 



M ALONE. Route U. 127 



8 M. S IS the Lower CTiatmngay ImU (Bellows* Hotel ; where boats and gtudes 
may be obtained), which is 2^ M. long, and has lofty and nigged shores The 
Upper Chateaugay Lake is 5 M. long by 2 M. wide, and is connected with the 
lower lake by a navigable stream called the Narrows (4 M. long). Book Island is 
near the middle of this lake, and Mt. Lion is on the S. shore. The Chazy and 
Ragged Lakes and several forest-ponds are visited from this point, and the hunt- 
ing and fishing are good. Several summer-villas and bonrding-houses are situated 
on the shores ; also Collins's Sporting Lodge and the spacious new JdironrJack 
House. A small steamer plies on the Lower and Upper Lakes and the Narrows. 

The train now passes on by Burke Hollow and traverses extensive pine- 
plains. Station : Malone (* Fertjuson House ; Hogle House), the capital 
of Franklin Co., a thriving manufacturing village of 4,000 inhabitants, 
situated on the Salmon River nearly midway between Rouse's Point and 
Ogdensburgh. It was founded by men of Vermont about the year 1800, 
and was plundered by the British in 1813 - 14. This village has become i 
favorite resort for sportsmen on account of the fishing which is found 
in the neighboring ponds and streams. 

Malone to Paul Smith's (St. Regis Lake). 

This has long been a favorite for Western and Northern tourists entering tho 
wilderness 1 he distance is 37 M. (Parties of 4 - 5 can hire a carriage at Malone 
at reasonable rates. ) ° 

Nearly 1 M. S. of the village the road passes the Springdale Fish 
Farms, where great numbers of trout are propagated. About 8 M. S. is 
the hamlet of Titusville, at the Great Falls of the Salmon River, near 
which is the State Dam (13 M. from Malone) which backs up the Salmon 
River in the spring-time, to afford a sufficient head of water to run the 
logs down to the Malone lumber-mills. Tlie small State Dam House is 
located here ; and 1 M. distant is Roimd Pond (3x2 M.), a famous 
trouting-place, amid forest scenery. The Deer Fly, Wolf, Plumadore, 
and (Jharley Ponds are near this inn ; and 5-6 M. S. E. is Ragged Lake 
(sportsmen's inn), a narrow and irregular sheet 9 M. long. Mt. Lion is 
seen conspicuously on the S. shore; and many trout are foimd in the 
clear waters. The Chateaugay Lake is 4 M. from this point (by forest- 
trad). 2 M. S. of Titusville is the Great Bend in Salmon River {M,/rtle 
Bower House) amid pleasant woodland scenery. The old mail-route from 
Malone to Ausable Forks (52 M.) diverges from the present sub-route at 
Duane, and runs S, E. by the Hunter's Home inn (31 M. from Malone). 

Meacham Lake is reached in 25 M. from Malone. It is 4 M. long by 
2 M. wide, and is dotted with pretty islands. Several lines of lofty 
heights environ its placid waters, and a beautiful view is afforded from 
Carpenter's Hill, a moderate elevation in the vicinity. The De Bar and 
St. Regis Mts. are prominent; and there are several sand-beaches on the 
borders. On the N. shore is situated the Meacham Lake House, a small 
hotel where guides and boats may be secured. Several trout-abounding 
ponds are found in this vicinity; and sportsmen sometimes visit Paul 



128 Route 15. MASSENA SPRINGS. 

Sniitli's by a Avater-route of 20 M. (2 M. of carries), wliich passes through 
the Folingsby, Jr., Pond and St, Regis River. The road passes on 
among the trees, leaves the Chain Ponds and Rice Mt. on the r., rounds 
Osgood Pond on the r., and 12 M. beyond Meachani Lake reaches Paul 
Smith's (see Route 18). 

Beyond Malone the train passes by Brush's Mills to Moira, \ M. N. of 

Moira village (small hotel). Daily stages nni S. 12 M. to Lincolnson 

(.§ 1), whence a road leads to the Sjjring Cove House (9 M.), a forest-irtn 

at the 9 M. Level on the St. Regis River. Trout and deer are found in 

this vicinity. From Brasher Falls station (2 inns) daily stages run to St. 

Regis, 

Stfiges run from Brasher Falls in 10 M. (also from Potsdam Junction in 14 M.) 
to Massena Springs (/fa?Toit\gofc; Hatfield House), whose waters are saline- 
sulphurous, and are beneficial in cases of cutaneous diseases and gravel. They 
resemble the celebrated Eilsen waters of Germany; and but 3-4 tumblers per 
day should be taken. The spring's are near the Ra(j[uette River, amid very pleas- 
ant scenery, and are 12 M. from St. Regis. 

The train now passes W. to Potsdam, where the Rome, W. & 0, R. R. 
comes in from the S. W, Crossing the Raquette, the line soon reaches 
]\Iadrid, on the Grass River, beyond which the level town of Lisbon is 
traversed, and the train enters Ogdensburg (see Route 28). 

15. Ogdensburg to Ottawa. 

Railroad ferry-boats cross from the Ogdensburg station to Prescott on 
the arrival of trains, and local boats run regularly every 15 min. The 
baggage is inspected by Canadian customs-officers at the landing. The 
St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railway runs from Prescott to Ottawa in 54 M. 
Time, 2^ hrs. ; fare, $2 (Canadian), The view from the train is very 
uninteresting, consisting mainly of tangled forests and occasional cold and 
rough clearings. The coxmties of Grenville and Carleton are traversed, 
but the villages of Oxford, Kemptville, and Manotick are all remote from 
their stations. From Chaudiere Junction a branch track diverges to the 
great saw-mills above the Chaudiere Falls. The valley of the Rideau is 
soon entered, and the great clusters of towers and j)innacles over the Par- 
liament Buildings are seen on the 1. The station is over 1 M. from the 
Upper Town. 

Ottawa. 

Hotels. —The Russell House, $2.50 - ?,, near the Parliament Buildings ; Daniel's 
Hotel, Metcalfe St., Upper Town, $2 ; Albion Hotel, on Court House Square. 

SIiops. — The best are found on Sparks St., but goods are here much more ex- 
pensive and in less variety than in Montreal. Furs are a specialty of this city, 
and gloves may be V'Ought to advantage. 

Horse-Cars traverse the Uytper, Centre, and Lower ToAvns, from the Chau- 
diere Falls to the Rideau Falls and New Edinburgh (on Sparks, Sussex, and Met- 
calfe Sts.). Distance, 3 M. ; fare, 6c. 



CITY OW OTTA.WA. 



12 



. Farlxanteni BuUdijigs E. 6. 

. Dominion Library E. 5. 

P O. and Agruui. Dtp'h.. Sfc E. 6. 

Ministry 0/ y«sli<e,. Financt, &c., . . F. 6. 

Univtrsity of Ottawa H. 7. 

Jnslitut Canaditn Fran<^is F. 5. 

City Post Office. F. 6. 

CiiUral S:hool E, 7. 

St. Patruk's Asylum D. 7. 

Court Houst G. 7. 

Gray Nunnery "j 4- 

Cor^em 0/ Notre Dame. H. 7. 



CHURCHES. 

1 3. Cathedni. G. ^. 

r 4. Biskop '} Chapel {Epii.) i . 6. 

t^. Christ CAurei. " B. 7, 

16. St. JostphU H. 7. 

17. S(. Andrew s (Pns.) D, 6. 

iS. Car.uUa. '■ £). 7. 

9 Metltodist. [k. 



SqJi 



ao. Cathcart.. 

21 Metca-l/e.. 

li Car tier.. . 

25 i^furket.. . 

34. Union. . . 

S5. Railway StaHi>n.. 1 
16. Rusiel House. . . 
27. DanitrsHottL . 
j8. Ridiau FaU^. . . 
29. Chiudiifs 'Falls, 
jo. Suspension Bridge. 








rHsaoonE ar. 



OTTAWA. Route 15. 129 

I? ail way s. — The St. Lawrence and Ottawa, to Presco t in 54 M. The Canada 
Central to Carleton Place ^28 M.), whence the Brockville and Ottawa runs S. to 
Brockville (46 M.), and N. to Renfrew (41 M.). Other lines are projected, es- 
pecially two to Montreal. 

Steamboats. — The Royal Mail Line for Montreal, morning and evening boats. 
Tne Union Forwarding Co.'s steamers leave Aylmer for Arnprior, Pembroke, and 
Deux Rivieres, 188 M. N. W. (see page 132). 

In 1613 Champlain and 3 Frenchmen ascended the Ottawa far above Lake 
Coulonge and Isle des Aluraettes, passing where, "on their 1., the falling cur- 
tain of the Rideau shone like silver between its bordering woods, and in front, 

white as a snow-drift, the cataracts of the Chaudiere barred their way 

Here, Avhile New England was a solitude, and the settlers of Virginia' scarcely 
dared ventui'c inland beyond the sound of cannon-shot, Caamiilain was plant- 
ing on the shores and islands the emblems of his faiih." (Parkman.) In 
1760 Philemon Wright, of Woburn, Mass., came into this remote wilderness in 
search of a new home, and in 1798 - 99 he made other explorations here. In 
ISOO he left Woburn with 25 men, 5 families, 14 horses, 8 oxen, and supplies, and 
advanced from the St. Lawrence to the Chaudiere Falls by roads of his own cut- 
ting and upon the frozen river. He settled at the foot of the great i)ortage around 
the falls, and began an energetic campaign against the forest. By 1824 he had 
cleared 3,000 acres, made a road 120 M. long, and built a village which had a popu- 
lation of 1,000 (mostly New-Englanders). This settlement was on the site of the 
l)resent village of Hull, while the chief of tlie Highland clan of McNab, with a 
large number of his clansmen, had located above. But Mr. Wright's capital was 
limited, and at one time he owed an Irish teamster named Sparks for arrears of 
wages. Having no nioney, he offered him the tall hills beyond the river in pay- 
ment of his claim. This Sparks contemptuously refused, but aiterwards, conclud- 
ing that the liills were better than nothing, he took them in lieu of ij^SOO. It was 
but a few years, however, before this point became the terminus of the Rideau 
Canal, and Sir John Franklin, in an address at the foundation of the canal-locks 
(in 1827), predicted that the Capital of Canada would be here. The town which 
soon arose from the canal-trade and the lumber business on the river was named 
By town, for Col. By, of the Royal Engineers, who surveyed the canal-route. In 
1851 there were 8,000 inhatjitants here, living in a very crude and lawless condi- 
tion. Some year.s later It was deemed best that Canada should have but one capi- 
tal, and the ancient provincial capitals, Quebec, Montreal, Kingston, and Toronto, 
strove earnestly for the honor. Tiie contest became so bitter, and so little chance 
was there of a settlement, that the question was referred by the Canadian Parlia- 
ment to Queen Victoria for her arbitration. The surprise was great when she 
chose Ottawa, and one provincial statesman proclaimed in Parliament, " I tell 
you candidly, gentlemen, you might as well send the seat of Government to Lab- 
rador." This was in 1858, and the first session of Parliament here was in 1865, 
since which the city has grown rapidly in population, culture, and beauty. 

Ott.vwa, the capital of the Dominion of Canada, occupie.s a, fine situa- 
tion at the confluence of the Ottawa and Rideau Rivers. It is divided 
into three sections, known as the Lower, Centre, and Upper Towns, and 
is connected by bridges with the manufacturing suburbs of Hull and New 
Edinburgh. The city is now in a very unfinished condition, but improve- 
ments are rapidly going on. There are 21,545 inhabitants, many of whom 
are connected with the lumber business, and over 8,000 are French Cana- 
dians. There are 17 churches, 5 daily papers, and 7 banks. Besides the 
immense lumber-mills there are several iron-works, two large breweries, 
and a match-factory employing 700 hands, and making 1,000 gross daily. 

* * The Parliament Buildings are situated on the highest land in the 
city, and occupy a plateau of 30 acres, 160 ft. above the Ottawa River. 
They are in the 13th-century Italian Gotliic architecture, and are probably 
<]* I 



130 Route 15. OTTAWA. 

the best example of that style in America or the world. The material 
is cream-colored Potsdam sandstone (from Nepean), with trimmings of 
Ohio stone and Arnprior marble. There are 3 buildings, forming 3 widely 
detached sides of a quadrangle, and fronting toward Wellington St. The 
central building, or Parliament House, is 472 ft. long and 570 ft. deep, 
and covers an area of 82,866 scjuare ft. With its long lines of pointed 
windows, its massive buttresses, and the 13 towers and many pinnacles, 
it is only excelled in majestic beauty by the Capitol at Washington. In 
the centre of the front is a noble Victoria tower ISO ft. high, very massive 
and well ornamented, and surmounted by a great ii'on crown. The main 
entrance is tlirough the broad arches under tliis tower, and the quaint 
and delicate carvings on and about the capitals of the inner columns shouM 
be noticed; also the imperial arms above the doorway. A bare and spa- 
cious lobby is entered from this point, with a line of pointed arches up- 
held by marble columns. The front of the building is occupied by com- 
mittee-rooms and offices, and the Parliament Halls are in two lofty wings 
extending to the N. Ascending the stairs and turning to the 1. from the 
entrance the Chamber of Commons is soon reached. The hall is 82 X 45 
ft., and 50 ft. high, and is richly furnished. It is surrounded by pilasters 
of gray marble from Portage du Fort, supplemented along the galleries by 
clusters of small columns of dark Arnprior marble, which sustain pointed 
arches of gray marble. Above the galleries (which seat 1,000 persons) are 
lines of long lancet-windows filled with stained glass. The roof is of glass 
and stained wood, and is provided with gas-jets and reflectors for night 
sessions. The lobbies of the Chamber of Commons and of the Senate are 
lined with portraits of Canadian statesmen, some of which possess much 
artistic merit. The Senate Hall is reached to the r. from the entrance, 
and is of the same size as the Commons. At the upper end of this hall is 
the vice-regal throne and canopy, flanked by busts of the Princess Alex- 
andi-a and the Prince of Wales. At the opposite end is a marble statue 
of Queen Victoria (by Wood), above which is a portrait of that lady at 
tlie time of her coronation. At the same side are full-length * portraits 
of King George III. and Queen Charlotte, both by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 
On the N. front of the building a unique and imposing structure has been 
built for the Library. It is a 16-sided polygon, 90 ft. in diameter, Avith 
enormous buttresses and a lofty conical roof. The library (30 - 40,000 
vohmies) is to be removed hei'e from its present cramped quarters. The 
irregular and picturesque stone buildings on the E. and W. of the quad- 
rangle are used by the various departments and bureaux of the Govern- 
ment. The E. block (318 x 258 ft.) is over the defile of the Rideau Canal, 
and contains the offices of the Governor-General, the Secretary of State, 
tlie Privy Council, the Registrar, Receiver-General, and Minister of the 
Militia, and the Departments of Customs^ Inland Revenue, and Justice. 



OTTAWA. Route 15. 131 

The W. block (277 x 211) contains the Departments of Public Works, 
Post-Office, Militia, and Marine and Fisheries, with the Bureau of Agri- 
culture and the Model-room of the Patent Department. From the. W. 
side of this building (or of the Parliament House) is afforded a fine * view 
over and far up the river, with vast lumber-yards lining the shores and 
the bright Chaudiere Falls in sight. The quadrangle is being terraced 
and planted with trees, and the front is lined with a costly stone-wall. 
A pleasant ramble has been arranged along the cliffs which descend sheer 
from the plateau to the river, and an iron bridge has been thrown across 
■the Rideau Canal near the buildings. The corner-stone of the Parlia- 
ment House was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1860, and the total cost 
of the buildings has been $ 4,000,000. The official residence of the Gov- 
ernor-General (the Earl of Dufferin) is at Rideau Hall, in New Edinburgh. 

Tliere are some fine commercial buildings on the two main streets, — 
Sparks and Sussex, — and the Churches of St. Patrick (Cath.), St. Andrew 
(Pres.), and Christ (Epis.) are handsome stone structures. The Cathedral 
de Notre Dame is a lofty and spacious building, with openworked twin- 
spires (200 ft. high) and a light interior, containing a picture, " The Flight 
into Egypt," which is attributed to Murillo. The hall of the Institut 
Canadien-Fran^ais (300 members; 6,000 volumes in library) is opposite 
the Cathedral, and the Bishop's Palace is alongside. The G7'ay Nunnery 
(the Mother-House of the Province of Ontario) is a large stone building 
at the corner of Bolton and Sussex Sts. There are 150 nuns, who care 
for 5 hospitals and asylums in the city. Tlie Black Nunnery (Congrega- 
tion de Notre Dame) have buildings near Cartier Square. The Convents 
of Bon Pasteur and the Freres Oblats are also substantial buildings. The 
Ottaioa University (on Wilbrod St.) is a Catholic institution; and the 
large building of the Protestant Ladies' College stands on Albert St. 
The City Hall and the Custom-House are in process of erection, and 
water-works are being prepared at a cost of $1,000,000. In the ravine 
E. of the Parliament Buildings are the 8 massive locks of the Eideau 
Canal, which was built in 1827-31, from Ottawa to Kingston (126 M.), 
at a cost of $2,500,000. It was destined for transporting troops and 
supplies in case of a war with the U. S., when the St. Lawrence might 
be made impassable; and is now used for freight and inland commerce. 

The * * Chaudidre Falls are about 1 M. from the Parliament Buildings 
(horse-cars in 15 min. ), and are often ranked next to Niagara, The Ottawa 
River (after passing the Rapides des Chenes) is here narrowed to 200 ft., 
and plunges down 40 ft. over an imeven ledge, producing an incessant 
roaring, and sending off clouds of misty spray. The N. channel leaps 
dowTi the Little Chaudiere Fall and disappears, emerging again ^ M. 
below. The falls are seen to advantage from the graceful suspension- 
bridge which connects Ottawa and Hull and the two provinces; for the 
Ottawa River is the boundary between Ontario and Quebec. 



132 Route 15. THE OTTAWA RIVER. 

To obviate the destruction of timber in plunging over the falls, a series of slides 
has been constructed by a canal f M. long around the Chaudiere. 40,000,000 ft. 
oi" timber descend here yearly, and tourists sometimes make the exciting passage 
of the slides (by permission from the raftsmen). Ottawa is the chief lumber-mart 
of Canada, and in the 7 mills about the falls 4,500 men are employed, producing 
yearly about 200,000,000 ft. of pine lumber, of which 45-55,000,000 ft. is kept 
piled near the mills. 270,OOJ gross of m;itches, 600,000 pails, 45,000 tubs, and 
72,000 zinc wash-boards are n>ade here yearly. 16,000 men are employed in the 
vast forests o the Ottawa and its tributaries, — the Gatineau, Madawaska, Coulonge, 
Black, Petewawa, and Riviere du Moine, — 10,000 men are in the river-mills, and 
17,000 sailors man the 1,200 vessels which cany away the timber. 

The * Rideau Falls are Avortliy of a visit. Tliey are reached by the 
horse-cars running E. from the Upper Town. The Rideau River, wlien 
within a few rods of its confluence with the Ottawa, here falls over a preci- 
I'/ice of smooth rock 50 - 60 ft. deep. The falls are surrounded by mills, 
but may be visited by leaving the street at the E. end of the bridge. 

llie Ujyper Ottawa River. 
The Ottawa River is navigated for 188 M. above Ottawa by the 14 steamers of 
the Union Navigation Co. The portages are somewhat trouble.=!ome, but tourists 
frerpiently take this route to visit the outposts of civilization, or to reach the N. 
sporting-grounds. Stages run from Ottawa to Ayliner (Holt's Hotel), a large 
village with 4 churclies, wlienee the steamer Jcsde Ca^neLi starts on the first reach 
of tlie river (early in the morninj;). As the X)ier is left, tlie range of the Eardley 
Hills is seen in the distance beyond Aylmer Bay. Long lines of lumber-booms 
are found on this reach ; and the steamer passes timber-rafts bearing low square 
sails and numerous huts, and great islands of logs drifting down to the Ottawa 
saw-mills. These rafts are managed by French Canadians and Indian half-breeds, 
— hardy, powerful, and semi-civilized men, who still chant the old Norman boat- 
songs amid these wild forests. After passing several landings, the steamer stops 
at noon at Pontiac (36 M. from Ottawa), where the river sweeps down the Chats 
liapids through an ar(;hipelago of pieturesciue islets. From this point horse-cars 
run on a trestle-work S M. long (in 20 min.) to Union Village, whence the Prince 
Arthur passes out on the Chats Lake (a widening of the Ottawa, 3 M. broad and 
25 M. long). The steamer stops at Arnprior (2 inns), a prosperous village at 
the mouth of the Madawaska River, near cjuarries of colored marble (also a 
station on the Canada Central Railway, 69 M. from Brockville). At the end of 
the lake, the Cheneaux Rapids are shnvly ascended ; and at 5 p. m. the toui-ist 
lands at Gould's, and rides in an omnibus over a wearisome forest-road 13 M. 
long (the Grand Portage). From Ci>bden, the Jason Govld steams out on Musk- 
rit'^Jjake, and runs through a narrow and tortuous channel among the islands to 
Pembroke (8.30 p. M.). T!;e night is spent at tliis jilace, which is the most 
important village N. of Ottawa, and is also a supply-depot for the remote lumbci'- 
eamps. The Pontiac leaves Pembroke at 7 a. m., and passes through the dark 
and cliff-lined reach called Deep River, reaching the Des Joachim poitage ,-t 
noon. Beyond this point tlie Rocl^rr Capitaive runs for 20 M.; and thence the 
Dciix Rivieres passes to the end of the route, 188 M. N. W. of Ottawa. Steamor.s 
have lately benun to run to Mattawa, a remote forest-hamlet (and a })ost of tlin 
Hudson's Bay Con)])any) due E. of Lake Nipissing, beyond which the unexplored 
Ottawa extends toward Hudson's Bay. 

The Lower Ottaiva River. — Ottawa to Montreal. 
Tlie day-boats leave at C.30 a. m., and reach Lachine at 4.20 p. m. (Montreal at 
5 p. m). The Rideau Falls are soon passed on the r. ; and 1 M. below the city 
the Gatineau River comes in on the 1., after a course of 350 M. The boat stoji.s 
.•it Buckincrham (])lumbago mines), Thurso, and L'Orignal, which is 9 M. from the 
Caledonia Springs (large summer hotel). "The Canadian Harrowgate " is 
crowded with Visitors in August ; and its waters are iodo-bromated and saline, 
beneficial in cases of gout, rheumatism, and scrofula. Tlie Intermittent Spring 
is 2 M. from the hotel. At Grcnvllh the traveller takes the cars aroimd the Long 



LUZERNE LAKE. Route IG. 133 

Saiilt and Carillon Rapids to Carillon (12 M.), whence another runs to Rigaud, 
the seat of tlie Convent of St. Anne. Beyond the landings of Pointe-aux- 
Anglais and Hudson is Conio, at the head of the Lake of tiie Two Mountains. 
On the 1. is seen the Indian village of Oka, near two tall hills, the highest of 
which is called Calvary, and is held as sacred by the Indians. The Island of 
Montreal is now ai)proa<;hed ; and at St. Anne a canal is entered, and the boat 
thus avoids the rapids, and jjasses under the great railway-bridge. It then 
traverses Lake St. Louis to Lachine, whence the railway is taken to Montreal. 
In the quaint old village of St. Anne, Tom Moore wrote his Canadian Boat-Song, 
beginning, — 

" Fanitly as tolls the evening chime, 

Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time. 

Sot>n as the woods on shore look dim. 

We'll sin? at .St. Anne s our evening hymn. 
Row, brothers, row, the stream runs fast, 
The Rapids are near, and the dayhglit s past. 

" Uttawas' tide ! this trembling moon 

Shall see us float o er thy surges soon. 

Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; 

O, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs I 
Blow, breezes, blow, the stream runs fast, 
The Rapids are near, and the daylight s past." 

16. Saratoga to the Sclirooii and Raquette Lakes. 

By the Adirondack Railroad to North Creek (57 M.\ and thence by stage to Blue 
Mt. Lake in 9-12 hrs. (27 M.). Passengers leaving Albany or Saratoga by early 
trains can reach Blue Mt. Lake the same night. Fare to Hadley (Luzerne), $ 1 ; 
to Thurman, i;jl.75; to Riverside, $2.25. The Adirondack Railroad is being 
made for tlie i)urpose of opening the great forest of N. New York, which it will 
cross diagonally to Ogdensburg on the St. Lawrence. The rich deposits of iron 
about Mt. Marcy will then be utilized, and a new route will be made for Western 
grain moving to the seaboard. Tlie line was first projected in 1854, and 500,000 
acres of land were acquired by grant and purchase. The 57 M. of track already 
laid (with its equipments) cost tj 2,000,000. 

Stations, Saratoga ; Greenfield, 6 M. ; King's, 10 ; S. Corinth, 13 ; Jessup's 
Landing, 17 ; Hadley, 22 ; Stony Creek, 30 ; Thurman, 36 ; The Glen, 44 ; Wash- 
burn's Eddy, 47 ; Riverside, 50 ; North Creek, 57. 

The train leaves the R. & S. station at Saratoga and soon enters the 

Kayaderosseras Valley, — a belt of fertile land devoted to dairy-farms and 

apple-orchards. It is 6 M. wide, and is bonnded by the Palraertown and 

Kayaderosseras Ranges of mts. Station, Greenjield, near which Schuyler 

and 600 Dutchmen and Mohawks defeated 625 Frenchmen and Algon- 

quins while on their retreat from a foray against the Mohawk castles. 

The French lost 60 men, and tlien retreated rapidly with their dog-sledge 

I»rovisiou-trains, crossing the Hudson on a bridge of ice. The train passes 

along the base of Mt. Anthony, crosses the Sacandaga on a lofty bridge, 

and stops at Hadley (Cccscade House, § 12- 15 a week), a small handet at 

the confluence of the Hudson and Sacandaga Rivers. On the opposite 

bank of the Hudson is the mt. village of Luzerne {* Wayside Hotel, 

$3.50 a day; * RockwelVs Hotel, $3 a day, ^14-21 a week; Wilcox 

House, $ 14 - 18 a week). The lofty hemispherical hill called the Potash 

is near the village, and overlooks the cluster of mts. about the glen. 

Jessup's Little Falls are near Luzerne, where the Hudson dashes through 

a narrow gorge and falls between high cliffs. Phelps' Bay (Tiserando, 

**the meeting of the waters") is at the confluence of the rivers, and 



134 Route 16. SCHROON LAKE. 

affords abiindant pickerel and bass fishing. Luzerne Lake is a small body 
of water near the village, 700 ft. above the sea, and rich in quiet beauty. 
Several small boats are kept here for visiting parties. Jessup's Landing 
is 5 M. S. by a pleasant river- road; Conklingville is 6 M. W., up the Sa- 
candaga Valley ; and Lake George is 10 M. N. E. by a road which passes 
through pleasant scenery. 

The Mohawks had a favorite rendezvous on the W. shore of the lake, and here 
King Hendrick and liis men encamped while marching to their destruction at the 
battle of Lake George. Sir John Johnson led a force by this ])oint in 1781, and 
occui>ied his old mansion long enough to remove the family plate to Canada. The 
name of the lake was given in honor of the Chevalier de la Luzerne, French Am- 
bassador to the U. S. from 1778 to 1783. The village is much visited in summer 
on account of its scenery, the facilities for fishing, and the pure air of its lofty 
pine-plains. Fare from New York to Lake Luzerne, $5.15. 

Wolf Creek station is situated near large quarries of red, gray, and 
green granite. Stany Creek is 2 M. E. of the mt. hamlet of Creek Centre 
(2 inns). Thunaan station is 1 M. from Athol and 6 M. from the large 
marble and verd-antique qxxarries (abounding in Eozoon Canadense) at 
Kenyontown. Stages leave Thurman semi-daily (in summer) for Lake 
George, 9 M. S. E. By this road the Schroon Biver is followed to War- 
rensbiirgh (Adirondack House), a manufacturing village on a lofty plateau 
surrounded by hills. Beyond this point the plank road passes through a 
hill-gap, and descends to the plains of Caldioell (see page 104). The train 
now enters Johnsburgh, with the Kayaderosseras Mts. on the 1. Their 
chief peak is Crane Mt., 3,500 ft. high, near whose summit is a pond 
which is frequented by cranes. Tlie profde of this mt. as seen from War- 
rensburgh (11 M. S. E.) resembles that of the human face. The Glen 
station is 5 M. S. W. of Chestertown {Chester House), which is near 
Friend's and Loon Lakes. To the N. E. is the wildem ess-town of Hori- 
con, dotted with ponds, the chief of which is Brant Lake (10 M. long), 
surrounded by the rocky peaks of the Kayaderosseras range. At the 
Riverside station is a long suspension bridge over the Hudson, and here 
stages connect for Schroon Lake (fare $ 1) and Chester. By this road 
Pottcrsville is reached 6 M. from Riverside. A short distance N. is a 
vapid stream which falls into a basin and thence enters a snow-white 
natural arch 40 ft. high, where it flows for 247 ft. Stages leave Potters- 
ville for Minerva and Chester. 

Schroon Lake is 1 M. from Pottersville (steamers up the lake semi- 
daily ; 75c. ). It is 10 M. long by 2 M. wide, and is surrounded by 
wooded hills and mts. It was a part of the French seigniory of D'Alain- 
ville granted to De Lotbiniere in 1758, and was afterwards included in the 
great baronial estate of Gilliland, Some authorities claim that its name 
is derived from a Saranac Indian word meaning ''daughter of the moun- 
tain " ; but there is a border tradition that it was visited by a party of 
French officers before the Conquest of Canada, and was named in honor 



LONG LAKE. Route 16. 135 

of Madame Scarron (Maintenon), the wife of Louis XIV. of France. The 
scenery about the foot of the lake is of little interest, and the steamer 
passes on to Mill Creek (E. shore), where the new Wells House (open only 
in summer) is situated. Glimpses are now gained of Dix Peak, the Boreas 
Spires, and other lofty summits of the Adirondacks. The shores grow 
more rugged and picturesque, and Mt, Pharaoh is seen on the r. front. 
The steamer stops on the W. shore at Schroon Lake Village (* Leland 
House, on a bluff overlooking the lake for 5 M. ; Ondawa Hotel ; Taylor 
House ; and several summer boarding-houses). Boats and guides for ex- 
cursions on the lake or into the forest may be obtained here. The most 
beautiful spot on the lake is Isold Bella, with its villa and gardens. Sev- 
ern Mt. is 2 M. N. and is often ascended by a wagon-road (3,000 ft.) for 
its extensive over-view. Mt. Pharaoh (4,000 ft. high) is across the lake, 
and may be ascended with guides. At its E. base is the trout-abounding 
Pharaoh Lake (7 M.^long), which is also visited from Hague, on Lake 
George. Paradox Lake is also much visited (see page 136). 

Beyond Riverside the railroad runs N. W. to its present terminus at 
l^oxi^i CrQok {Adirondack House; Rogers' Hotel). Strenuous efforts are 
being made to carry the line forward by the Adirondack Iron Works and 
Long and Tupper Lakes, to its objective point at Ogdensburg, Daily 
stages run to Minerva {Alpine House ; 8 M. ; fare, $ 1) in a forest-covered 
town between the Schroon and Boquet ranges. 

Long Lake is reached by mail-stages leaving Minerva every Wednesday 
at 7 A. M. (fare, $ 5), and running N. by Aiden Lair and through a chaos 
of mts. to Tahaious (Lower Iron Works), which is situated in a glen 4 M. 
N. of Boreas River, and has a small forest-tavern. The road from Minerva 
to Adirondack crosses the Crown Point and Carthage military road at this 
point, and passengers for Long Lake turn W. on the latter. 8 M. W. of 
Tahawus is the small village of Newcomb {Neiocomh Hotel ; Davis's Aunt 
Polly Inn), where guides and boats may be obtained. On order by mail 
(Aveekly) teams will be sent from the hotel to North Creek or Riverside 
for parties. Lakes Harris and Rich are quite near the village, and Lake 
Delia is 3 M. N. E. The Chain Lakes are visited from this point, while 
the Catlin Lake route leads to the foot of Long Lake in 13 M. (3 M. of 
carries). Soon after leaving Newcomb, the road follows Rich Lake, on 
tlie r., and traverses extensive forests to Long Lake Village, 20-22 M. 
from Tahawus, and 44 M. from North Creek. 

Blue Mountain L.ake is 27 M. W. of N. Creek, by a road which passes 
Indiiui Lake. It is thought that a stage-lino will serve this route in 1876 ; but in 
any ease, teams and drivers may be obtained at the N. Creek hotels. The road 
is rugged, and runs W. throuffh a desolate country, traversed by lofty ranges of 
hills. Wasliburne's Hotel is on Indian River, 15 M. out (fare, $ 1.40) ; and a trail 
leads thence 4 M. S. to Indian Lake, a sequestered and solitary sheet about 4 M. 
long. It is 25 M. by river and road from this point to Sageville. 3 M, beyond 
Indian River is Jnckson'n, on Cedar River, where guides ami supplies may be ob- 
tained. The road passes W. for 9 M. by Rock Lake to Blue Mt. Lake (see Route 
23, ad finem), on which a new hotel is being built. 12 M. W, is Piaqueite Lake. 



13G Route 17. PARADOX LAKE. 

17. Schroon Lake to the Southern Adirondacks. 

Schroon Lake to Root's, 9 M. (Grown Toint to Root's, IS) ; Fenton's, 14 ; Boreas 
River, 20 ; Tahawus, 28 ; Newconib, 3G ; Long Lake, 51. 

The road follows the valley of Schroon River, with the long slopes of 
Spiiit Mt. and the Blue Ridge on the W. At a point 3-4 M.N, of 
Schroon Lake, the bright waters of Paradox Lake are seen, 2-3 M. W. 
This sheet of water is over 6 M. long, and affords considerable fishing,, 
BroWs Hotel is near its head, 9 M, from Schroon Lake ; 10 M. from Root's ; 
13 M, from Ticonderoga ; and 16 M. from Crown Point, About 2 M. S. 
E. is Long Pond, and Pyramid Pond is 1 M. S. , while several other se- 
questered lakelets lie in the vicinity. The intersection of the Crown 
Point road is soon passed, and then a broad and barren plain is traversed 
until Root's Inn is reached, 9 M, from Schroon Lake, This house ac- 
commodates 40-50 guests at ^ 10 a week, and is a famous resort for 
sportsmen. 

The routes westward from Ticonderoga and Crown Point meet at this point. 
Ticonderoga is 23 M. S. E. of Root's, and the road passes Paradox Lake and Long 
Pond, The distance from Crown Point to Root's is 18 M,, the first half of which 
leads up the valley of Put's Creek, 

The Great Noo^thern Highway. 
Tlie tri-weekly mail-stage from Schroon Lake continues from Root's on 
the Great Northern Highway, with the lofty Dix Peak in advance. After 
passing through three deserted villages, it enters a wide and tangled 
forest, and ascends the water-shed heights. Thence it runs down into the 
Boquet River Valley, witli the imposing peaks of the Giant of the Valley 
on the W, When near New Russia tlie Split Rock Falls on the Boquet 
are seen by the roadside, and a little farther N, another fine cascade opens 
on the 1, 22 M. N. of Root's (32 M, from Schroon Lake) the beautiful 
village of Elizabethtown (see page 141) is reached. The stage arrives 
here at 2 p. M,, and waits for dinner, after which it goes N, to Keeseville, 
passing the Boquet Mts, and traversing (for 3 M.)the romantic gorge 
known as Poke-a-Moonshine, Schroon Lake to Keeseville, 52 M. ; time, 
12 hrs. ; fare, $4,25. In going S. from Keeseville, Elizabethtown is 
passed at 11 a. m., and dinner is obtained (at 4 P. M, ) at Root's. 



Root's Inn is situated on the ancient State military road from Crown 
Point to Carthage, crossing the Wilderness in 133 M. This highway has 
fallen into disuse, but is still (barely) passable with the exception of a 
section of 16 M, between Stillwater and Beach's Lake. Parties some- 
times hire conveyances from Root's to Long Lake, 42 M, W. , accomplish- 
ing the trip in one long day. Fine sporting is found to the S. and S, W. 
of the inn, while the obscure trail which leads by Chapel Pond to the 
Keene Valley (18 - 20 M.) passes through noble scenery. It is 11 M, from 



ADIRONDACK. Route 17. 137 

this point to the Hunter's Pass. Passing W. for 5 M., FentorCs Inn is 
reached, near the fishing-grounds on the ragged slopes of the Blue Ridge. 
A forest-road here diverges to the N., leading to Clear Pond (Lake-Side 
Inn) in 4 M., and to the inn on Mud Pond in 5 M. These sequestered 
waters are environed with mts., and a bridle-path conducts thence to the 
top of Mt. Marcy, 16 M. from Fenton's. A difficult trail leads from tlie 
inn at Mud Pond to the summit of Dix Peak, 4 M. N. E., from which the 
view includes the lakes of Schroon and Champlain, the cham of the Green 
Mts., and the chief Adirondack Mts. The wonderful gorge known as the 
Hunter's Pass lies at the base of this peak. It is 6 M. from Fenton's to 
Bullard's, and the road passes between Hayes Mt. on tlie S. and the 
graceful Boreas Spires on the N. (forests obstruct much of the view). 
Bullard's is near the Wolf and Sand Ponds, while Boreas Pond is 3 - 4 
M. N., whence a trail leads to the Ausable Ponds and the Keene Valley. 
The road now crosses the Boreas Valley, and in 8 M. from Bullard's (19 
M. from Root's) reaches Tahaivus (Lower Works). Tahawus to Long 
Lake, see page 135. 

Adirondack (Upper Iron Works) is 11 M. N. of Tahawus, by a pic- 
turesque road, wliich has Lake Sanford on the E. for 5 M. Moore's Inn 
is at this place, and the vicinity is filled with objects of interest. Tlie 
immense deposits of iron and the iron dam across the river were discovered 
and reported by an Indian hunter in 1826. Mining was soon commenceil, 
but the expense of freighting the ore to Lake Champlain was too heavy, 
and after some years the village, with its Churcli of Tubal Cain, was 
abandoned, and lias sines remained desolate. The unfortunate names of 
two of the chief Adirondack peaks, McMartin and Mclntyre, were given 
in honor of two of the speculators in these mines. Lake Sanford, 5 M. 
long, and girded with mts., is 1 M. S. of Adirondack, and Lake Hender- 
son, E, of Mt. Henderson, is ^ M. N. and 3 M. long. Grand mt. views 
are found here, and from the trout-abounding Preston Ponds (2 M. from 
Lake Henderson by path). 6 M. N. W. of these ponds is Mt. Seward, 
the Onnoivanlah of the Indians, a remote peak 4,348 ft. liigh, which is 
separated from Ragged Mt. (4,126 ft. high) by the Pass of Ouluska 
(" place of shadows "), where panthers abound. Far around the S. base 
of Seward is tlie silent district, called by the Indians Coughsarageh, " the 
dismal wilderness," while Ampersand Pond and Mt. lie on the N., and 
tlie confluence of the Cold and Raquette Rivers is 12 M. S. W. The 
* Adirondack Pass is 5 M. N. E. of Adirondack by a well-defined trail. 
It is a great gorge between Mts. Wallface and Mclntyre, and presents a 
scene of wild grandeur. The bottom of the pass is 2,901 ft. above the 
sea, and Wallface fronts on the W. side with a continuous precipice 1 M. 
long and 1,319 ft. high. 5 M, beyond the pass is the hamlet of N. Elba 
(see page 145). There are many other scenes of sublimity and beauty in 



138 RoxUelS. MOUNT MARCY. 

this vicinity, but they are difficult of access, and the accommodations of 
the mt. inns are very limited. 

The trail to the summit of Mt. Marcy (see page 144) is 12 M. long, 
and very arduous. At 6 M. N. E. from Adirondack the path reaches 
Lake Colden, " perfectly embosomed amid the gigantic mts., and looking 
for all the world like an innocent child sleeping in a robber's embrace." 
From this sheet, 2,851 ft. above the tide, flows the foamy Opalescent 
River. Far up the Opalescent gorge to the E. is seen Gray Peak, on 
which, 4,293 ft. high, is Summit -Water, a bright mt. tarn from which the 
Hudson flows. 1 M. beyond Colden is Avalanche Lake, around whiclx 
stand Wallface, Mclntyre, McMartin, and Colden Mts. The long slopes 
of Marcy are soon encountered, and a steady climb over rocky ledges and 
steep acclivities conducts to the summit. After passing up by this route 
the mt. is often descended into the Keene Valley. A long trail leads from 
Adirondack to Keene, via the Ausable Ponds. 

18. Plattsburgh to the Saranac Lakes. 

{Paul Siuith's or Martin's.) 

This has long been tlie favorite entrance to the Adironducks, and is well 
travelled throughout the summer. The train leaves the station (near Fouquet'.s 
Hotel) of the N. Y. and Canada R. R. (which follows the W . sliore of Lake Chani- 
jilain), and runs S. for 20 M. (fare, $ 1), iiassing 5 small stations, and stopping 
at Ausable River. This point is the present S. terminus of one of the branches 
of the railroad which is being construc-ted fnnn Whitehall to Montreal on the W. 
side of Lake Champlain. Excursion tickets (good for several weeks) from Boston 
to Ausable River and return, either by way of Fitchbuig and Burlington, or by 
Lowell and .^t. Albans, are sold for $ IG ((35 Washington yt. ; tickets also at 82 
Washington St.) ; also from New York Lily (tickets and information at 175 Bioad- 
way, or the Hudson River R. R. and steamboat ottices). Through tickets may be 
obtainetl at the R. and iS. R. R. ofhces at Albany, Iroy, and Saratoga, and in 
Philadelphia at Sll Chestnut St. 

Stages are in waiting at Ausable River to convey travellers to Martin's, Paul 
Smith's, and Keeseville. Distance to Martin's, 30 M., fare $4.00; to Smith's, 38 
M., fare, $ 4 ; to the Prospect House (Cpjier Saranac), 41 M. ; to Wilmington 
Notch, 18-20 M. ; to Keeseville and the Ausable Chasin, 10-12 M. N > regular 
stage runs to Cox's, but conveyances are sent thence to Blooiuingdale on receipt 
of telegrams announcing the approach of guests. It is thought that a line of 
stages will run to Martiu's by way of Wilmington Notch in 187(3. 

The stage-route follows the river for 3 M. to Ausable Forks, a pros- 
perous village (3 inns) at the confluence of the W. and S. Branches of 
the Ausable. This is the head-quarters of the iron-works of J. and J. 
Rogers, who own immense tracts of land, and employ over 2,000 men. 
They run 22 forges and 48 nail-machines, consuming 4,500,000 bushels of 
charcoal yearly, and making 80,000 kegs of nails, besides vast quantities 
of blooms. The plank road now ascends the hills, from which Whiteface 
Mt. and other peaks are seen in the S. W,, and passing through a dreary 
region of recent clearings and cold and sterile soil, traverses the iron- 
workers' village of Black Brook (6 M. from Ausable River station). At 
Frankliyi Falls, 20 M. from Ausable, the stages stop for dinner. Tliis 



PAUL SMITH'S. Route 18. 139 

village was attacked (in May, 1852) hy a fire nminng in the forest, which 
utterly destroyed it. A new carriage-road has been made from the hotel 
to within f M. of the summit of Whiteface Mt., and guides and carriages 
for the ascent are furnished here. Tlie trip occupies a long day (fares, 
$ 1.50 each way). The stage now follows the Saranac River for 8 M. to 
Bloomingdale (* »S^. Arniand Hmcse, 100 guests), pleasantly situated on 
the W. of Whiteface Mt., and about 1,600 ft. above the sea. Trout are 
found in the Saranac River near this point, and in Moose and Grass 
Ponds, 2-3 M. to the S. 

9 M. N. of Bloomingdale (by a road which crosses Cape Mt., and passes the 
hamlets of Vei-moutville and Merrillsville) is Lciv is Smith's Hu titer' t: Hoync, on the 
N. Saranac, and near tlie fishing-grounds of Loon, Mud, and Round Ponds. 
Roads lead thence to Plattsburgh (by Elsinore, 36 M.) and to Malone (tri-weekly 
mail-stage, by Duane, 31 M.)- Wardney'a lishernien's resort is on Rainbow Lake 
(3 M. long), 9 M. S. W. of the Hunters Home, 7 M. N. E. of Paul Smith's, and 6 
M. N. W. of Bloomingdale. 

Martin's is reached by the stage about 6 r. m., after passing from Bloom- 
ingdale 8 M. up the valley of the Saranac. Baker's and Blood's inns are 
seen when tlie lake is approached, Baker's being 2 M. from its shore. 
* Martin's Saranac Lake House accommodates 140 guests (^2.50-3 a 
day), and has a fine lake-view. Guides, boats, and camp-equipage may 
be obtained here by those who wish to enter the remoter forest. Distance 
by road to Paul Smith's, 14 M.; to Cox's (Upper Saranac Lake House), 
16 M.; to Lake Placid, 12 M. ; to Wilmington Notch, 16 M.; to Mt. 
Marcy, 24 M. Distance by water to Cox's, 20 M.; to Bartlett's, 12^ M. ; 
to Big Tupper Lake (by Sweeny's), 29 M. ; to Raquette Lake (by Stony 
Creek), 56-60 M. Good fishing is foimd on Ray Brook and other trib- 
utaries of the Saranac in this vicinity; also in Mackenzie's Pond, 4 M. 
N. E., under Sugar-Loaf Mt. Colly Pond is 2 M. N. W. of the hotel, 
and 2 -3 M. beyond is the deer-haunted Macauley Pond. Lonesome Pond 
is a sequestered loch 3-4 M. S. of the hotel, gained by boating do\NTi the 
lake and a " carry " of 1 M. But next to the frequent and easy excur- 
sions among the islands and bays of Saranac Lake, the favorite trip is to 
Lake Placid, 12 M. S. E. (see page 145). 

* •• Paul" Smith's (.S^^. Regis House) is reached by the stage in 10 M. 
from Bloomingdale. It accommodates 180 - 200 guests, and charges $ 2.50 
a day. The best table in the Wilderness is set here, and the house is 
furnished with bath-rooms and barber-shop, billiard-tables and telegraph. 
An extensive corps of guides, with camp-equipage and supplies, may be 
found here. The hotel stands on an eminence in the pine-forest, and 
fronts on the Lower St. Regis Lake, a large pond from which flows the 
Middle Branch of the St. Regis River. Distance by road to Martin's, 14 
M.; to Cox's, 17 M. ; to Malone, 36 M. (see page 127). Distance by water 
to Martin's, 30-32 M.; to Cox's, 12-14 M.; to Big Tupper Lake (by 



140 RgiUcID. whiteface mt. 

Upper Saraiiac), 33-35 M.; to Raquette Lake, 64-66 M. The connected 
waters of Lower St. Regis, Spitfire, and St. Regis Lakes are thoroughly 
explored by light flotillas from the hotel, and the pretty ponds on the 
" route of the 9 carries " are frequently visited. Osgood Pond is just N. 
of Smith's, and several other lakelets are found on the W. Bay Pond is 
a picturesque sheet about 12 M. W.; and a forest-road leads to Wardney's 
Hotel, on Rainbow Lake, 7 M. N. E. A pleasant excursion is made by 
following the Malone road for 12 M. to Meachmn Lake. Parties froHi 
Smith's frequently ascend St. Regis Mt., a long and lofty ridge seen 
from the front of the house to the S. W. There is a rude path to the 
summit, and the excursion takes 6-8 hrs. The view over the St. Regis 
and Saranac Lakes is beautiful; while the Chateaugay Woods are seen in 
the N. E., and the S. E. is filled with the lofty Adirondack peaks. 

19. Port Kent to the Wilmington Pass and Saranac Lakes. 

The stages from Port Kent (see page 118) to the Lakes have liitherto run by 
Franklin Falls, but many parties have preferred to charter a stage (at but little 
extra expense) to go via Wilmington Pass and Whiteface Mt. It is said that a 
regular line of stages will be put on this route m 1S76. Stages from Keeseville 
(5 M. S. W.) and the Ausable Chasm connect at Port Kent with every Lake 
Champlain steamer, and leave Keeseville for Martin's and Smith's daily at 6.30 
A. M. The returning stages leave Martin's at 7 a. m., and connect with the train 
at Ausable River, and Avith the evening boat for the South at Port Kent. Ti-av- 
ellers from the East cross from Burlington to Port Kent on the steam fen'y-boat. 
The distance from Port Kent, by the Pass, to Martin's is 49 M. 

The road follows the Ausable River for 18 M. to Ausable Forks, passing 

the famous Chasm in 3 M., and Keeseville in 5 M. from Port Kent, The 

Jay and Poke-a-Moonshine Mts. are seen on the S., while Wliiteface 

towers conspicuously in advance. At the Forks, the road tunis to the 

S. W., following the valley of the S. Branch, with the Ausable Mts. on 

the W., and the Jay Mts. on the E. Fine views are afforded of the Jay 

Valley, with the lofty peaks of Keene in advance. From the little 

hamlet oi Jay, the lovely Keene Valley (10-13 M. distant; see page 142) 

is often visited. The road to the Pass turns W. at Jay, and crosses to 

Wilmington, 24 M. from Port Kent. Another road is sometimes taken, 

running W. from Ausable Forks to Black Brook village, and thence 

following the W. Branch (22 M. from Port Kent). At Wilmington is tlie 

Whiteface Mt. House (40-50 guests; SIO a week), situated amid noble 

scenery. * Whiteface Mt. is usually ascended from this point, guides 

and horses being furnished at the hotel. For over 2 M. carriages are 

used, and then the ascent is on horseback, over a rugged bridle-path 4 M. 

long. There is a comfortable hut near the summit, where quarters for 

the night may be obtained. Whiteface Mt. is 4,918 ft. high (survey of 

1872), and derives its name from the fact that a landslide has laid bare 

the wlutish-gray ledges near its summit. The sharpness, bareness and 

isolation of this lofty peak render the * * view one of peculiar grandeur. 



THE WILMINGTON PASS. Route 20. 141 

On the S. is a confused mass of imposing mts., conspicuous among which are 
the Giant of the Valley, Mclutyre, Wallface, and the jire-eminent Mt. Marcy. 
Close below, on the y. W., is the lovely Lake Placid, divided by its chain of 
islets ; and away beyond is the heavy mass of Mt. Seward. On the W., beyond 
Sugar-Loaf Mt., the silvery Saranac Lakes are seen, with scores of i)onds stud- 
ding the forest. Big Clear Pond is due W., below Wt. Regis Mt. It is claimed 
that Lake Ontario, 1:^5 M. y. of W., may be seen on a clear day, and that across 
the vast rolling wilderness to the N. may be discerned the flash of the tin roofs 
of Montreal, 80 M. away. The whole Saran«,c Valley is under view to the N., and 
also the dark Chateaugay Woods. On the E. is Lake Champlain, beyond which 
is the long line of the Green Mts., with Mt. Mansfield as their chief. 

The Whiteface Mt. House is distant from Keene Flats 13 M. ; from 
Martin's, 22 M. ; from the Indian Pass, 18 M.; and from N. Elba, 12 M. 
A path from the 1. of the Notch road, 2h M. from the hotel, leads to the 
Flume. Passing Little Falls, the roaring of * Big Falls is soon heard, 
where there is a plunge of over 100 ft. 6 M. from the hotel the * Wil- 
mington Pass is entered, and followed for nearly 2 M., with the sublime 
cliffs of Whiteface towering on the r., approached by an equally great 
precipice on the 1. There is but little more than room for the road and 
the river for over 1,000 ft., where the cliffs run up to a great height on 
either hand. A road to the r., beyond the portals of the gorge, leads to 
Lake Placid (in 2 M. ); and the stage-road intersects the Elizabethtown 
road at N. Elba, 6 M. from the Pass, and passes down to the Saranac 
Lake. 

20. Westport to the Saranac Lakes. 

Distance, 43 M. ; fare, § 1 ; semi-weekly stages. From Westport (on 
Lake Champlain, 51 M. N. of Whitehall) semi-daily stages run to 
Elizabethtown (8 M.; fare %\). The latter village {* Mansion House, 
200 guests, $ 10 - 12 a week ; Valley House ; and several boarding-houses) 
is the capital of Essex County, and is finely situated on the Boquet River. 
Its grand mt. prospects have made it a favorite summer resort. Lofty peaks 
and precipitous hills sui-round the village on all sides, and afford a fine 
view from the plateau on which stand the county buildings, the 3 churches, 
and the Mansion House. Cobble Hill, 1 M. S. W., has a singular rocky 
summit resembling a dome and fronted on the E. by a great precipice. 
It is frequently ascended for the sake of its view, which includes Raven 
Hill, Lake Champlain, and the Green Mts., on the E. ; the Boquet Mts. 
on the N. ; the lofty Adirondacks on the W., dominated by the Giant of 
the Valley; and the fruitful fields of Pleasant Valley on the S. The iso- 
lated peak of Raven Hill lies E. of Elizabethtown, and a vague path leads 
to its summit, 2,100 ft. above the sea. Lake Champlain and the Green 
Mts. are plainly seen on the E. ; the Boquet Mts. stretch along the N. ; 
and in the W., beyond the glen-embosomed village, the stately Adiron- 
dacks are seen for 30 M. The Giant of the Valley is sometimes ascended 
from this place, the route lying up the valley of Roaring Biook (to the S.). 



142 Route 20. THE KEENE VALLEY. 

The excursion takes 2 days, and experienced guides should be procured. 
Hurricane Peak is a sharp white summit resembling Chocorua, which 
overlooks tlie tall mts. 5 M. to the W. The ascent and return require a 
long day, and form one of the most interesting excursions in Northern 
N. Y. Parties ride to the base in carriages, and from that point are guided 
up a forest-trail in 4 - 5 hrs. From the lofty bare summit all the princi- 
pal Adirondacks are seen close at hand in the W. and S., while across 
Pleasant Valley and beyond Raven liill are the broad waters of Champlg-in 
and the Green Mts. of Vermont. Fishing-parties frequently visit Black 
and Long Ponds, 6-8 M. S. E. of the village; also. New Pond, near the 
mts., and famed for its trout, Tlie favorite drive is down Pleasant Val- 
ley, by the side of the romantic Boc^uet River, to the cascades on that 
stream, — - or to Split-Rock Falls, a bright and picturesque scene 85 M. to 
the S. W. 

Elizabethtown is at the intersection of the State road through the mts. with the 
Great Northern Higlnvay from Schroon Lake to Keeseville, and is a centre of 
stage-routes. Stages leave for Wcstport semi-daily ; for Keene and Martin's (35 
M. N. W. ; fare, §3), at G a. m., Mon. and Thurs., reaching Martin's at 7 P. M. ; 
for Keeseville (21 M. N. E. ; fare, §1.75), at 2 p. m., Tues., Thurs., and Sat. ; for 
Root's Inn at Schroon River (23 M. S. AV. ; fare, .? 1.75) and Scliroon Lake (32 M. 
S. W. ; fare, $2.50), at 11 a. m., Mon., Wed., and Fri.,— arriving at Schroon Lake 
by 7 P. M. 

After leaving Elizabethtown the stage soon enters the passes of the mts., 
and at 10 M. distance crosses the upper end of the lovely * Keene Valley. 
This is the most beautiful place in all the nit. district, and is already a 
favorite (but not fashional)le) sunmier resort. The i'air and fruitful inter- 
vales of the S. Branch of tlie Ausable run N. and S. for 8 M., while lofty 
and continuous mt. chains inwall them on the E. and W., and the great 
mass of Camel's Hump Mt. closes in on the S. The cultivated meadows, 
smooth and fertile and dotted with clumps of trees and shrubbery, contrast 
strongly with the frowning peaks on every side ; wliile the bright clean- 
ness of the scattered cottages, the graceful foot-bridges across the river, 
and the absence of fences, add new beauties to the scene. At Keene 
P. 0., at the N. end of the valley, is BdVs Hotel; Dibble's {Tahatvus 
House ; 60 guests) and WashhoncVs are near tlie centre ; and the board- 
ing-houses of Alma L. Beede and Smith Beede are in the portals of tlie 
passes at tlie S. end. The price at these houses is $ 7 - 10 a week. Or- 
lando Beede, Malvin Trumbull, Max and William Trideau, are the best 
of the guides in this district. The Clifford Falls are 3 M. N. W. of 
Keene (near the N. Elba road), and fall about 60 ft., pouring down through 
a remarkable gorge in the rock. HdVs Falls are on the Ausable River, 
2 M. S. of Keene, and are visible from the highway. There is about 40 
ft. of direct fall, and the rock -grouping in the vicinity is very picturesque. 
From Keene P. 0., at the N. end, to Keene Flats, in the centre of the 
valley, the distance is 4-5 M.; and from Keene Flats to Beede's, at the 



THE AUSABLE PONDS. Route 20. 143 

S. end, it is nearly 3 M. * Beede's Falls are \ M. from Smith Beede's, 
where Roaring Brook plunges over a precipice over 500 ft. high, during 
the latter part of its descent gliding at an angle of about 70° through a 
deep channel which it has cut in the cliff. The best view is gained from 
a shelf of rock at the foot of the perpendicular fall. Chapel Pond is 
reached by an obscure path in 1^ M. from Smith Beede's, and is about | 
M. long. It is romantically situated amid an environment of rugged 
cliffs, and is noted for the great depth of its waters, which abound in 
white-fish. A small boat is kept upon this pond. 1,500 ft. totlie E., and 
400 ft. higher than Chapel Pond, is another sequestered and solitary mt. 
tarn, and about h M. farther, and 200 ft. higher, is yet another lonely 
pond (1,500 X 600 ft.). An old and nearly obliterated trail (experienced 
guides should be taken) leads from Chapel Pond down into the Boquet 
River Valley, and thence to Root's Inn, 17 M. from the pond. Tlie im- 
mense heights of Camel's Hump, Giant of tlie Valley, and Bald Peak 
nearly surround Chapel Pond; and Round Pond (150 acres), the source of 
the Boquet River, is about 2 M. S. In the same region, and 4 M. S. of 
Beede's, is the glen known as tlie * Hunter's Pass. 

The * Ausable Ponds are reached from Beede's by a rugged road lead- 
ing up the defile in which flows the Ausable River. Near Alma L. Beede's 
are the long steep rapids called Russell Falls, where the river descends 
150 ft. in a course of aboiit 1,500 ft., — its channel lying through a deep 
gorge in the granite rock. 2 M. above this point are the Beaver Meadow 
Falls, situated about \ M. from the road. 4 M. from Beede's the road 
leaves the forest and ascends a bluff which overlooks the Lower Ausable 
Pond, a narrow and gloomy sheet \\ M. long, with the nits, rising sheer 
from its shores. Gothic Mt. and Saddleback are on the W. , and lofty 
nameless peaks ascend on the E. * Rainboio Falls are ^ M. from the 
foot of the pond, and are visited by following the beach to the r. and 
crossing the driftwood at the outlet (or by rowing across the outlet), and 
passing along a path which turns sharply to the 1. around a hunters' 
shanty near by. An arduous ascent through the thickets and up the bed 
of the stream soon leads to tlie foot of the clifls over which tlie Rainbow 
Brook makes a direct leap of 125 ft. Boats are usually in readiness at the 
foot of the Lower Pond to transport travellers to the upper end, whence 
a carry 1 M. long leads to the Upper Ausable Pond. Tliis is larger than 
its sister sheet, being about 2 M. long, and attaining a considerable width 
near the centre, while the landscape is broader and less desolate at this 
point. Parties frequently encamp on these shores, and it is said that a 
hotel is to be built here, in conjunction with an improvement of the road 
to Keene. Trout and deer are sought in the vicinity. It is about 5 M. 
from the Upper Pond to the summit of Mt. Marcy ; and 5 M. to the S. 
W. (3 M. by boat up the inlet) is Boreas Pond, one of the head- waters of 



144 Route 20. MOUNT MARCY. 

the Hudson. Tliis pond is nearly cut in two by a long cape running out 
from Moose Mt. on the N., while Saddle Rock and the towering Boreas 
Spires rise on the E. It covers nearly 1 square M,, and abounds in small 
trout. About 10 M. farther S. W. is the village of Tahavnts (Lower Iron 
Works), on the Crown Point and Long Lake road. 1 M. above the Upper 
Pond the inlet is crossed by a bridle-path which leads S. E. to the inn 
on Mud Pond (5-6 M.), and to Root's Inn at Schroon River. 

Mount Marcy, 

the sovereign peak of the Adirondacks, is 5,333 ft, above the sea (survey 
of 1872). It was called by the Saranac Indians, Tahawus, ''The Cloud- 
Piercer," or "Sky-Splitter," in allusion to the sharpness of its lofty peak, 
which often overtops the clouds. The * view from the summit (which 
is strewn with boulders) is wide and interesting, and inclndes the val- 
ley of Lake Champlain and the Green Mts. on the E. ; Whiteface, the 
Keene Mts., and the Ausable Valley on the N. and N. E. ; and distant 
views of the Saranac Lakes to the N. W. Surrounding this central sum- 
mit are seen the chief peaks of the Adirondacks. 

The usual mode of ascent is from Keene Flats, whence guides, provisions, and 
blankets are taken. Leaving the Flats at noon, the tirst night is si)ent in shanties 
beyond the Upper Ausable Pond (10-12 M.). On the next day the nit. is ascended 
by'a trail running 5 M. N. W.. and the shanties at the pond are I'egained by night- 
fall, Keene being reached by the noon of the next day. A nearer route (but more 
arduous and less ))icturesque) leads up John's Brook from Keene Flats, passing 
Big Falls and Buslniell's Falls, and traversing the Panther Gorge (in which the 
view is obscured by trees). Tliis trail passes between Slide and Gothic Mts., and 
ascends the E. slope of Mt. Marcy. From Root's Inn, at Schroon River, the dis- 
tance to the summit is 20-22 M. A wagon-road leads to the forest-tavern at 
Mud Pond (10 M.), whence a bridle-path has been made to the base of the mt. 
(9 M.). Another route which is often used is from Upper Adirondack, by a trail 
12 M. long (see page 138). From Scott's (13 M. E. of Martin's, on the Westport 
road) a trail leads to the sunnnit by way of the Indian Pass, in 15 M. In addition 
to his camp equipage and sujiplies, the tourist should be careful to take thick 
clothing, as the mt. air is often very cold. A powerful tield-glass will also be 
found useful. 

BelVs Hotel, at Keene (,$ 7-9 a week) is reached at 10 o'clock (travellers 
returning from Martin's dine here). Beyond tliis point the Saranac stage 
enters the wild and romantic defile between Pitch Off and Long Pond 
Mts. About 4 M. from Keene the Echmmd Po7vds are reached, and 
so completely is the Pass filled by their waters that the State road is 
can-ied through on long galleries built out from the side of Pitch Off Mt. 
The ponds are narrow and deep, and about 4 M. long, abonnding also in 
small and delicious trout. They were once an unbroken lake, but an 
avalanche from the side of Pitch Off Mt. filled up the centi-e and formed 
two ponds. Tlie bare and precipitous peaks of Pitch Off, and the opposed 
ridges of Long Pond Mt. look down on the narrow and picturesque gorge, 
until the road emerges on a lofty grassy plateau nearly 2 M. square, 
called the South Meadows (or " Plains of Abraham "). An imposing 



LAKE PLACID. Route 20. 145 

panoramic view of the peaks of Marcy, Mclntyre, Slide, and Wallface is 
now gained in the S. ; wliile on the N. the blanched summit of Whiteface 
soon starts into sight. The stage now reaches Scott's (13 M. from Mar- 
tin's; 30 M. from Westport), a roadside farm-house (summer boarders), 
which commands a noble view, and is a good centre for excursions. It is 
5 M. to Lake Placid; 9 M. to the Wilmington Pass; 10 M. (S. W.) to the 
Adirondack Pass (see page 137) ; and 15 M. (S. ) to the summit of Mt, Marcy. 
From the hill-top over the W. Ausable, about 2 M. beyond Scott's, may 
be seen the liouse and farm of John Brown, and the bowlder by which he 
is buried. The farm is now owned by an association formed by Kate 
Field. 

John Brown, "of Ossawattoraie," was bom at Torrington, Conn., in the year 
1800. He was a Puritan of the straitest sect, " of unflinching courage and intense 
earnestness." In 1855 he moved to Kansas, and took a prominent part in tlie 
struggles between the Free Soil and the Proslavery parties. In Aug., 1856, his 
command defeated at Ossawattomie a greatly superior loi-ce of Missourians. In 
May, 1859, witli a secret convention of Abolitionists in Canada, he formed the 
daring scheme of invading the State of Virginia and liberating its slaves. On tlie 
night of Oct. 10, 1859, he surprised and captured the national arsenal and armory 
at Harper's Ferry, Va., with about 20 men. But the slaves did not revolt; the 
. Va. militia beleaguered him closely, and the U. S. Marines captured the few sur- 
vivors of the fearless liberators. Brown's 2 sons were killed by his side, and he 
liimself was womided in several places. He was soon afterwards tried, convicted, 
and executed, "meeting death with serene composure." 

A short distance beyond Brown's, N. Elba {Lymi's Inn) is reached. 
From this point a fine mt. view is obtained, including (in the N. ) Whiteface 
and Sugar Loaf. * Lake Placid is 2 M. N. of tlie village, and is one of 
the loveliest resorts in the Adirondacks. Whiteface towers up over the 
N. E. shores, and is sometimes ascended by this route. On the W. are 
the dark ridges of Sugar Loaf, and lofty peaks overshadow the E. shores. 
Three islands in the midst of the waters divide it into the East and West 
Lakes, and many fish dwell in these pure and crystal depths. The lake 
is 5 M. long and 14-2 M. wide, and near its S. end are the boarding- 
houses of Nash and Brewster (60 - 80 guests ; $8-10 a week). Nash 
Lake is very near the houses, and contains about 1 scjuare M. ; and Conery 
Pond is f M. N. Paradox Pond is also near the S. shore, and has an in- 
explicable tidal flow to and from the lake. 

After leaving N. Elba the road traverses a wide and barren plateau for 
9 M., when it descends into the Saranac Valley, and, passing Blood's 
tavern, speedily reaches Martin's Saranac Lake House (page 139), situated 
at the head of one of the fairest bays of the forest-bound lake. Dozens 
of the graceful Saranac and Long Lake canoes are seen floating before the 
hotel ; and the stalwart guides and hunters of Long Lake, St. Regis, and 
the Saranacs await the orders of tlie sportsman, with oars, rifle, and rods 
in readiness. Martin's and Paul Smith's hotels are often made the so- 
journing-place of ladies while their escorts pass on into the more remote 
forest. 

7 J 



146 Route 21. THE SARANAC LAKES. 



21. The Saranac Lakes. Martin's to Cox's (and Paul Smith's). 

Boats and guides may be engaged at Martin's. The hotel guides charge $2.50 
a daj' and tlieir board (the independent guides usually get 5^3), and if the traveller 
leaves his guide at a distance fi-oni tiie place where he was eu.aged, lie must pay 
him wages and exjienses for the time necessary for his (the guide s) return to that 
place. The distance from Martin's to Cox's is nearly 20 M., and the journey is 
easily made in a day. 

Saranac Lake is 6 M. long by 1 - 3 M. wide, and its surface is broken 
by 52 islands, the largest of which is Eagle Island, f M. long. The rocky 
headlands and the numerous tree-studded islets make a continuously 
changing panorama as the light swift boat passes up the lake, while Sara- 
nac Alt., on the W., and Ampersand Mt., on the S., loom boldly on the 
view. Occasional glimpses are obtained of Mt. Marcy and its brother peaks 
in the distant S. E. At the base of a cliff in Loon Bay, near the head of 
tlie lake, is seen the rude guide-board at Jacob's Well, a clear, cold spring 
of sweet water. Beyond this point a narrow and tortuous stream is en- 
tered and ascended for 3 M., passing a lively rapid (6-8 ft. fall), which 
is usually shot by boats descending. Round Lake is soon seen in the 
advance, with Ampersand Mt. on tlie S. E. 

" This little lake is a gem. It is round, as its name imports, some 4 M. in diame- 
ter, and surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills, beneath whose shadows it reposes 
in placid and quiet beauty. On the N. E. Whiteface rears its tall head far above tlie 
intervening ranges, while away ott" in the E. Mt. Marcy and Mt. Seward stand out 
dim and shadowy against the sky. Nearer are the Keene ranges, ragged and lofty, 
their bare and rocky summits glistening in the sunlight, while nearer still the 
hills arise, sometimes with steep and ragged acclivity, and sometimes gently 

sloping from the shore The rugged and sublime, with the placid and 

beautiful, are magniticently mingled in the surroundings of this little sheet of 
water." (Hammond.) 

Ampersand Mt. maybe ascended by a path (cut out by Dr. Ely in 1S73) 
which leads up the slope S. E. from Round Lake (a guide should be obtained from 
Bartlett's, '2 M. distant). The ascent to the hut on the summit may be made in 
3-4 hrs. Tlie a.xis of the mt. extends for 3 M. E. and W., and the slope is steep. 
A beautiful * view is afforded from the E. peak, embracing Ampersand Pond 
(whose shape is thought to resemble the character &, whence comes its name), 
the thi'ee Saranac Lakes, Long and Tupper Lakes, the St. Regis and Clear Ponds, 
and the valley of the Saranac as far as Franklin Falls. On the E. and S. E. are 
the bold Adirondack peaks, Santanona, Mclntyre, Emmons, Seward, and many 
others. Ampersand Pond is a sequestered and beautiful loch S. of the mt. Here, 
according to tradition, the wizards of the Saranac Indians performed their weird 
incantations ; and here, in later years, adventurous si)ortsmen have found abun- 
dant fares of Hsh. It is reached by a difficult path of 5 M. from Round Lake, or 
by a long and arduous j(jurney from Cold Brook (near Lower Saranac Lake). 

Crossing Round Lake (dotted with islets, and very turbulent in Avindy 
weather), a narrow stream is entered, and BartletVs Sportsman's Home is 
soon reached (12 M. from Martin's). This hotel accommodates 40-50 
guests, at $ 12 a week, and is a favorite place for dining. The river falls 
60 ft. here, and the boats and baggage are hauled on carts around the 
rapids (J M. ; 50c. a load), and are launched on a deep and sequestered 
bay of the Upper Saranac. 



THE SARANAC LAKES. Route 22. 147 

The * Upper Saranac Lake is now entered, and a cluster of rocky- 
islets is threaded. Tlii.s queenly lake is 8 M. long by 1-3 M. wide, and 
is often preferred to any of the other Adirondack waters. It has many 
pretty islands, while the distant mt. views are of great sublimity. After 
rounding the first point on the E., Gull Bay is left on the r., and several 
wooded islands are seen on the W. About half-way up the lake the 
Narrows are passed, where two bold points from the E. and W. shores 
approach each other. Just above, on the W., is Fish Creek Bay, where a 
creek affords entrance to Big Scpiare Pond and many other forest-sheets, 
extending to the Wolf Pond route. About 2 M. farther N. the lake is 
again narrowed, by Clear Point from the W., and Markham Point from 
the E, A broad and island-studded expanse is now crossed, and the boat 
is beached before Cox's {Vjjjger Saranac Lake House; 100 guests; $2-2.50 
a day). This hotel is situated at the head of the lake, and commands a 
noble * view to the S. , embracing all the upper part of the lake, with line 
after line of stately mts. beyond, among which Marcy, Seward, and White- 
face are conspicuous. The best of fishing is foimd in the many ponds iu 
the immediate vicinity. There is a telegraph-station here; and a good 
stage-road runs out to Bloomingdale, 13 M. N. E., with side-roads to 
Martin's (16 M.) and Paul Smith's (17 M.). 

The usual route by water from Cox's to Smith's is preceded by a carry 
of 4 M., from the Upper Saranac to Big Clear Pond. The boats are 
hauled across for $1.50 a load, and passengers are carried for 50c. each. 
Tlie beautiful expanse of Big Clear Pond is now crossed for 2 M., with 
St. Regis Mt. on the N. W., and grand views of the more distant Adiron- 
dacks in the E. (the sharp pyramid of Whiteface is very conspicuous). 
The St. Germain (Sanjermau) carry is now crossed (1| M.; $1.50 a load). 
The 3 pretty connected lakes of St. Regis, Spitfire, and Lower St. Regis 
are traversed in about 4 M., and Smith's is reached. The Moute of the 
9 carries passes through 8 ponds between the Upper Saranac and St. 
Regis Lake, with 9 carries aggregating 2^ M. of portage. 

Paul Smith's, see page 139. 

22. The Saranac Lakes to the Tupper Lakes. 

Distance to Big Tupper Lake from Martin's, 29 M. ; from Paul Smith's, 
35 M. ; from Cox's, 21 M. These routes are described in Route 21, as far 
as the foot of the Upper Saranac Lake. Here the Sweeny Carry is en- 
tered, on the W. shore (2 M. from Corey's), and the boats and baggage 
are hauled across for $1.50 a load (distance, 3 M.). From the hill over 
the beginning of the carry is obtained one of the most beautiful views in 
the lake-country, embracing the Upper Saranac, with its many islands 
and capes, and a great number of mts., of which Whiteface is chief. 
The boats are soon launched upon the Raquette Eiver, at a point 9 M. 



148 Route 22. TUPPER LAKE. 

below Stony Creek; and this pretty stream (the Nlhanaicate, "Rapid 
River," of the Indians) is descended for 11 M, 4 M. from the carry a 
slight rapid is passed ; and 1 M. Leyond the boat goes through a narrow 
cutting in the isthmus of the Great Oxbow, thus saving over 1 M. of the 
river-passage. After passing a few forest-homes, the broad sheet of 
*Tupper Lake is seen in advance. This lake is 7 M. long by 1-3 M. 
wide, and is 1,504 ft. above the sea. It has about 40 islands, diversified 
with lofty trees and steep ledges, and is overlooked by the high ridges of 
Mt. Morris (on the E.) and Ai-ab Mt. (on the W.). County Island is the 
largest, and is nearly 1^ M. long; while on Bluff Island (to the N. E.) is 
the remarkable precipice called the Devil's Pulpit, running down sheer 
into the water at the S. end of the island. Moody's Hotel is near the 
outlet, and Cronk's (formerly Graves's) is near the head. 

" This is one of the most beautiful sheets of water that the sun ever shone 
upon, lying alone anicjug the nits., surrounded by old primeval forests, walled in 

by palisades of roeks, and studded with islands The hills rise with a 

gentle acclivity from the shore ; behind them, and afar off, rise rugged mt. -ranges ; 
and farther still, the lotty peaks of the Adirondaeks loom up in dim and 
shadowy outline on the sky. From every point, and in every direction, are views 
of placid and quiet beauty rarely equalled, — valleys stretching away among 
the highlands ; gaps in the hills through which the sunlight i)ours long after the 
shadows of the lorcst have elsewhere tlnown themselves across the lake ; islands, 
some bold and rocky, rising in barren desolation right up from the water ; some 
covered with a dense and thrifty growth of evergreen trees, with a soil matchless 
in fertility ; . . . . beautiful bays, stealing around bold promontories, and hiding 
away among the old woods." (Hammond.) 

Potsdam (see Route 25) is sometimes reached from Tupper Lake (in 
about GO M.) by descending the Raquette River. This route was very 
interesting before the back-water from the State dam at Potsdam had 
killed the trees on the banks. It is 6 M. from the lake to the Setting 
Pole Puipids, whence (passing Fish Hawk Rapids) the picturesque Pierce- 
field Falls are reached in 3 M. Shooting several rapids, at 12 M. from 
the lake Downey's Landing is reached, 3-4 M. W. of which is Massa- 
wepie Lake, with the 5 ponds at the head-waters of the Grass River. 
Tlie Blue Mt. and Moosehead Stillwaters are now traversed (passing 4 
rapids), with Blue Mt. on the E., and Moosehead Mt. on the W. At one 
l»oint the Windfall is passed, where, on Sept. 20, 1845, a toniado cut a 
clean path through the forest, | M. wide and 50 M. in length. The fallen 
timber was afterwards burned. 10 - 12 M. below Downey's, Seavey's Hotel 
is reached, whence a poor road leads out to Potsdam in 35 M., passing 
Haws' Hotel (at the mouth of the Jordan River) in 7 M., and Petsue's 
Forest House (at Stark's Falls) in 14 M. The latter house is a rendezvous 
for guides and boats, and the ascent by water into the wilderness is often 
begun here. From Petsue's to Potsdam, by the Colton Road, it is 22 M., 
passing near the Rainbow Falls and the Walled Banks of the Raquette. 
Stages run (9 M.) between Potsdam and Colton (Empire Exchange), a, 
lara;e lumberinsr-villase. 



STONY CREEK POXDS. Route 23. U-9 

Tlie Wolf Pond route from Tupper Lake to Cox's (on the Upper Saranac) is 
about 30 M. long, and has 10 carries (7 M.)- It passes by Hoel, Turtle, Long, 
Floodvvood, Itolliiis, and tlie Wolf and Raquette Ponds, and is very arduous and 
tiresome. A v.reat number of minor ponds dot the forest on eitli'er side of this 
route. Big Wolf Pond is over 3 M. long, and is reached by a pleasant trip 
from Tuppor Lake (10 M.), passing down the Raquette River 2 M. to the Raquette 
Pond, a handsome sheet of water nearly 3 M. long. From thence the sinuous Wolf 
Brook is ascended lor 5 M. to Little Wolf Pond, whence a ^ M. carry leads to Big 
Wolf Pond. 

Cranberry liake (15 M. long ; on the Upper Oswegatchie) is sometimes 
visited by a difficult route about 20 M long (8 M. of carries). Mud Lake (4 M. 
around), famous for deer, mosquitoes, and desolation, is 16 M. S. W. of Tupper 
Lake, by i)ortage (3 M.) from Cronk's, and then by Horseshoe Pond and the Bog 
River lakelets. Silver Lake and other ponds about Silver Lake Mt. are visited by 
the same route. Pleasant Lake, near Arab Mt., is C-7 M. from Tupper Lake, by 
Bridge Brook Pond. Scores of sequestered ponds, prolific in fish and haunted 
by deer, are situated in this district. 

The Bog River Falls are at the head of Tupper Lake (near a large spring 

of clear water rising through white sand). Little Tupper Lake is 9 M. 

S. (2J M. carries), by a route which crosses the pretty Round Pond. This 

lake is 1,715 ft. above the sea, and is 6 M. long. It has high and rocky 

shores and numerous islands, and gives fine views of the distant nits. Pliny 

Robbins keeps a forest tavern and supply- store on Sand Point, near the 

foot of the lake. Little Tupper is but seldom visited, on account of its 

remoteness, and attbrds very good sporting and lovely scenery. Smith's 

Lake, see Route 24. 

23. The Saranac Lakes to Raquette Lake. 

From Martin's to Bartlett's, 12 M. ; to Jolinson's, 2(5 M. : to Kellogg 's (Long 
Lake), 43 .J- M. ; to Gary's (Raquette Lake), 57 M. From Paul Smith's to Cox's, 
14 M. ; to Johnson's, 34 M. ; to Kellogg's, 51^ M. ; to Gary's, 65 M. Tlie journey 
to tlie lake requires 3 days, if but little baggage is taken. The Long Lalce guides 
(Plumbley, Hough, Gary, Sabbattis, and others), who may be found at Martin's, 
are familiar with the Raquette waters. Travellers who do not wish to encamp will 
find primitive accommodations at Bartlett's, Corey's, Johnson's, Davis's, Kellogg's, 
and Gary's. 

The ways from Martin's and Smith's to the foot of Upper Saranac Lake 
are described in Route 21. At (Jorei/s (a well-located hunters' resort) is 
the Indian Carry, over which the boats are hauled on carriages from the 
Saranac to the 8tony Creek Ponds. This vicinity was formerly brightened 
by the cornfields and wigwams of the Saranac Indians, who ha<l their 
principal village here. The carry is 1 M. long; boats and baggage, 75c, 
a load. The boats are now launched on the beautiful little Stony Creek 
Ponds, of which there are 3, connected by narrow straits, and containing 
about 3 square M. At the foot of the third pond, the trout-liaunted Am- 
persand Brook enters on the 1., near tlie outlet of Stony Creek. The latter 
stream (the Indian Wahioolichanigan) is followed through a narrow and 
exceedingly sinuous course, where the outstretched oars sometimes touch 
on both banks, and the forest closes in on every side. After traversing 
this forest alley for 3 M., the Raquette River is entered at a point 13 M. 



150 Routers. LONG LAKE. 

from Long Lake and 2b M. from Tupper Lake. The boat is now turned 
up stream, and passes through a constantly changing panorama of tine 
woodland scenery, with the banks lined with water-maples and tall pines. 
Groups of bowlders and long sand-bars render the navigation interesting 
and adventurous ; and coves and promontories diversify the shores. 6 
M. above Stony Creek, Johnson's house is reached, at Raquette Falls, 
around which the boats are hauled {\\ M. ; ^1.50 a load). The house is 
a low quaint building of logs, well joined and carefully plastered. The 
pancakes served here have been celebrated by Murray and all who came 
after. The falls are about J M. from the house; while 1-2 M to the E. 
are several small ponds which furnish fine trout. 3 M, W. of Johnson's 
(by a faint trail) is Folingsby's Po7id, nearly 3 M. long, and noted for its 
fishing. This pond has been the summer home of Agassiz, Emerson, 
Lowell, and Hoar. 5 M. beyond Johnson's Carry, on the Raquette, the 
mouth of Cold River is passed on the 1. (boats can ascend its clear waters 
for l|-5 M.), 1 M. beyond this point the Raquette widens, and the 
boat passes into the beautiful * Long Lake. On the r. Buck Mt. is seen, 
with the Blueberry Mts. on the 1., and the boat quickly reaches Lower 
Lsland, on Avhich is a small inn. 

This inn keeps open communication with the Aunt Polly Inn, at Newcomb, 13 
M. S. E. (under the same proprietor) by a romantic forest route whicli leads 
througli Belden, Rich, Lily Pad, Long, and Round Ponds, and Catlin Lake. Tlie 
latter is a sequestered sheet over 3 M. long, with favorite camping-places on its 
shores. Several other ponds are found in the vicinity of Catlin Lake. 

" Long Lake is one of the most beautiful sheets of water I ever floated over, 
and its frame-work of mts. becomes tlie glorious picture. I never saw a more 

beautiful island than Round Island It appears to stand between two 

promontories whose green and rounded points are striving to reach it as they push 
boldly out into the water, while with its abrupt, high banks, from which go up 
the lofty pine-trees, it looks like a huge green cylinder sunk there endwise in tlie 
waves. I wish I owned that island, — it would be pleasant to be possessor of so 
much beauty," (H.\mmond.) 

About 1 M, from Lower Island (on the W. shore) is the mouth of a 
small stream, by ascending which and carrying ^ M. the Anthony Ponds 
are reached. From Lower Island Mt. Seward is seen in the N, E., and in 
the S, are the pretty islands off Buck Mt, Point (a favorite camp-ground), 
known as Camp, Scrag, and Ferris. * Round Island is soon seen in ad- 
vance (about midway of the lake), and 3-4 M, beyond is Long Lake 
village (W. shore), Kellogcfs inn is located here, and accommodates 
40 - 50 guests ($ 8 - 10 a week). This little hamlet is an outpost of civ- 
ilization, and has 3 stores and a Methodist church. In the vicinity dwell 
the families of Sabbattis, Cary, Plumbley, and other noted giiides. 
Weekly mail-stages leave Long Lake for Minerva, North, Creek, and 
Pottersville (see pages 134 and 135), 

Little TiiipTper Lake is 10-12 M. W. of Kellogg's, by a much-used but arduous 
route requiring a day's travel, A carry of 1 M. leads from Smith's (opposite 
Kellogg's) lo Clear Poud, at the N. base of Owl's Head. After crossing the pond 



RAQUETTE LAKE. Route 23. 151 

a difficult carry is traversed for 2 M., when a water journey of 4^ M. succeeds 
(througli Mud and the Slim Ponds). A short carry and ^ M. of Stony Pond is 
followed by a carry of nearly 1 M. to Little Tupper Lake. Grampus Lake is some- 
times visited from Mud Pond, or by ascending Big Brook from Long Lake ; and the 
Handsome and Mohegan Ponds are reached from Grampus. 

Owl's Head Mt. (2,789 ft. high) is often ascended from the village by rude 
trails leading up the E. slope (guide necessary). The crystalline and trout- 
abounding tarn called Owl's Head Pond may be visited from the path. From 
either of "the two peaks of the mt. is afforded a fine lake-view, with Raquette 
Lake in the S. W. and the Adirondack peaks in the E. Blue Mt. towers con- 
spicuously in the S. E. over its lovely lake. Blue Mt. Lake is about 10 M. from 
Long Lake Aillage, via South Pond. 

Soon after leaving Kellogg's the boat pa.sses under a rai.serl section in 

the floating bridge which here crosses the lake. A few scattered houses 

are seen on the E., while Owl's Head looms in the W., and at 3^ M. from 

the village the rapids at the end of Long Lake are reached. A carry of \ 

M. and then 1 M. on the Raquette River leads to the * Buttermilk Falls, 

a resounding plunge of the waters over a high and rugged ledge. Trout 

abound in this place. 1 M. on the river and a carry of 1^ M. leads to 

Forked Lake, which is traversed for 3 M. amid fine forest scenery, with 

tall pines on the promontories. Niggerhead and the distant West Mts. 

are seen in advance, while the retrospect shows Blue Mt. and the dark 

ridge of the Windfall Mts. (near the Chain Lakes). 

Plumbley Pond is but 1 M. from this lake, and Little Forked Lake is reached 
by passing N. through a narrow and sinuous strait. It is G M. from the S. shore 
to the head of Little Forked, whence a difficult route leads to Little Tujjper Lake 
in 12 M. (Jary, Suttrm, Bottle, and Rock Ponds are traversed, and 4 M. of ob- 
structed carries are found. High Pond (1 M. W.)and Moose Pond (l^ M. N. E.) 
are visited from the romantic shores of Little Forked. 

A carry of ^ M. leads from Forked Lake to * Raquette Lake, where a 
boat-passage of about 2 M. conducts to Carxfs Hotel, a carpetless and 
plasterless house out of sight of the lake. Tlie old Crown Point road 
passes the hotel, and is rarely travelled (distance to Long Lake village, 
14 M). Parties sojourning at the lake usually encamp on one of its bold 
points (generally on Lidian, West, or Constable's Point, or Murray 
Lsland). Raquette Lake is 12 M. long, with a width of 1-5 M. It is 
1,700 feet above the sea, and its waters are of remarkable clearness. Tlie 
old environing forests, the projecting points and graceful islands, and tlie 
mt. -ranges in view comlnne to heighten the charms of this beautiful lake. 
Fish and game formerly abounded here, and may .still be found in great 
abundance by skilful sportsmen. It is generally conceded that Raquette is 
the most beautiful of the Adirondack lakes ; but fewer visitors come 
hither, on account of its remoteness and the poverty of hotel accommo- 
dations. After passing up the long and river-like lower end of the lake, 
a pretty islet is seen off North Point, and West Point opens on the r. 
The broad Marryatt's Bay is enclosed between West Point and Indian 
Point. The West Mts. are seen on the r., with North Bay opening back 
to the Carthage road. Below Indian Point, Eagle Bay stretches away to 



152 Route 21 BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE. 

the W., bouiKled by Sand Point on the S. ; while Wood's Point makes 
Gilt boldly from the E. shore, and Blue Mt. is seen beyond. Beyond 
Murray Island is the spacious South Bay, about which is much of the 
finest forest scenery on the lake. On Rush Point and the low S. shores 
the mosquitoes display great numbers and activity. 

Little Tuppcr Lake is visited from Raquette Lake by a difficult route 18 M. long. 
It starts from the head of North Bay (3 M. from Cary's), over a weary portage of 
4 M. Parties who have much baggage should get teams from Cary's, as the portage 
lies along the Crown Point and Carthage road, which has degenerated into a mere 
forest trail. The boats are launched on Beach's Liake, a beautiful sheet 3^ M. 
long, with Rock Island near the centre, and the West Mts. on the S. E. Bald 
Rock and Bear Point are favorite camp-grounds, and Dr. Brandreth's lodges are 
near the N. shore. Several trout-ponds may be visited from this point, and the 
salmon-trout fishing in the lake is very fine. The Fulton Lakes may be visited 
from this point, by way of Big Moose Lake and the Sister Ponds, in 22 M. (nearly 
9 M. of carries). From Beach's to Salmon Lake is a rugged carry of nearly 2 M. ; 
and after 2 M. on the latter, an arduous carry of 1^ M. is traversed to Rock Pond. 
A short carry from this point leads to a small stream, which is descended in 3 M. 
to Little Tupper Lake. 

Shallow Lake is reached by an inlet from Marryatt's Bay in 6-7 M. , and the 
Murray Ponds are still more remote. This journey is very arduous, but trout are 
found in great plenty. The Sargent Ponds (good fishing) are visited by a jiath 
(1 M.) leading from the Crowni Point road, 3 M. from Cary's. The South Inlet of 
Raquette Lake may be ascended for 2 M. to the falls, whence a 2 M. carry conducts 
to Shedd Lake, and a 3 M. carry leads to Mohegan Pond. 2 M. S. E. of Shedd is 
Fonda Lake ; and all these Avaters are famed for trout. Boonville, on the Black 
River R. R., is about 54 M. from Raquette Lake, via the Fulton Lakes and 
Arnold's ; and Fourth Lake is about 15 M. S. W. (see page 155). 

* Blue Mountain Lake, probably the most beautiful of the smaller 
"Wilderness lakes, is easily reached in 12 M. (^ M. carry) from Raquette 
Lake, by passing up Marion River, and through Utowana and Eagle 
Lakes. Henry Austin eDtertains guests in a forest-house between Blue 
Mt. and Eagle Lakes (a hotel is projected for 1876). Ned Buntline has a 
lodge on Eagle Lake. A road runs from Blue Mt. Lake to the Adirondack 
R. R. (see page 135). This lake covers only about 5 square M., but it has 
exquisite combinations of scenery, formed by the numerous islets on its 
bosom and the bold mts. which surround its shores. Blue Mt. is 3,595 
ft. high, and is often ascended by a trail on its W. slope. The summit 
was cleared of trees during the State survey of 1873, and presents a 
lovely panorama of lake and mt. scenery. 

24. XJtica to the St. Lawrence Eiver. Trenton Falls and 
the John Brown Tract. 

By the Utica and Black River R. R. To Trenton Falls in 40 min. (fare, 75e.) ; 
to Boonville in Ik hrs. (fare, S 1.2a) ; to Clayton in 5 -6hrs. 

Stations : Utica ; Marcy, G M. : Stittville, 10 : Holland Patent, 12 ; Trenton, 16 : 
Trenton Falls, 17 : ProsT>ect. IS ; Remsen, 21 ; E. Steuben, 25 ; Steuben, 26 ; 
Alder Creek, 2S ; Boonville, 35 ; Leyden, 38 ; Port Leyden, 42 ; Lyons Falls, 45 ; 
Glendale, 51 ; Martinsburg, 54 ; Lowville, 58 ; Castorland, 66 ; Deer River, 70 : 
Carthage, 74 (a bi-anch line diverges N. to Philadelphia, 87 ; Theresa Junction, 
92 ; Morristown, 123; Cla^'ton, 108) ; Champion, 76 ; Great Bend, 81 ; Felt's Mills, 
83 ; Black River, 85 : Watei-town. 91. 



TRENTON FALLS. Route U. 153 

The train leaves the union station at Utica, and soon crosses the Mo- 
hawk River, whose valley it follows for several miles. The town of 
Marcy, with its villages of Marcy and Stittsville, is traversed, and soon 
after leaving Holland Patent a stop is made at the station of 

* Trenton Falls. 

* Moore's Trenton Falls Hotel (•'gS.SO a day ; !?21 a week) is 1 M. from the station 
and is reached by carriages (50c.). The large house closes Sept. 16, but a 
smaller hotel near by remains open all the year. Both these houses are painted 
dark brown, as if in respect to Willis's protest (written here) against "the chalky 
universes in rural places," with their " unescapable white-paint aggravations of 
sunshine," — "the mountains of illuminated clapboards," — "our Mont Blanc 
hotels with their Dover Cliff porticos." The Perkins House is an inexpensive 
hotel near the upper falls (reached from Prospect station, where its carriages 
await). 

John Sherman, grandson of Roger Sherman, graduated at Yale in 1793 and 
preached to a Congregational church at Mansfield, Conn., until 1805, when he 
embraced the new liberal doctrines. He then visited Trenton (then called Olden- 
barneveldt, in honor of the Grand Pensionary of the Dutch Republic, who was 
executed for liberalism in 1619) and became pastor of the first Unitarian church 
in the State of N. Y., —winning wide respect as an author, scholar, and orator. 
lie was wont to spend much time about the then almost inaccessible Trenton 
Falls, and in 1822 lie built a house for visitors (called the " Rural Resort ") which 
was enlarged in 1825. In 1827 he pul)lished a long descriptive essay about the 
Falls, and in 1828 he died and was buried under a monument just N. of the hotel. 
Mr. Moore came to the Falls in these early days for sight-seeing, and, being in- 
jured by falling on the rocks, was so carefully nursed by Miss Sherman that he 
afterward wedded her and in time became the landlord here. The hotel assumed 
its present dimensions in 1862, and is fronted by pleasant gardens. 25c. entrauce- 
fee to the Falls is charged to transient visitors. 

Trenton Falls are situated on W. Canada {Kanata, meaning "dark- 
brown water") Creek, an affluent of tlie Mohawk. The Indians gave 
them the euphonious name of Kuyahora {" slanting water "). There are 
5 cascades in the series, with a total fall of 200 ft., and the stream Hows 
in the bottom of a romantic ravine whicli is bordered by walls of Trenton 
limestone, 70-200 ft. high. The attraction of the place is perhaps as 
much in the " deep down-itude " of this ravine and its crown of primeval 
forest as in its water-views. The water also is of a singular variety of 
brown hues, — from amber and topaz on the shallows to a dark umber 
in the deeper parts, — forming a rich effect when flecked with lines of 
foam and lighted by the sunsliine. The ravine is cut through the Trenton 
limestone formation of the transition period, which contains trilo bites, 
nautili, and other fossils of interest (geological sliop in the village) ; and 
the rocks abound with blue harebjiUs, in their season. During low 
water the ravine is easily traversed along its base, but high floods so fill 
the gorge that the path on the cliff must be followed. (Tourists who in- 
tend to remain several days should buy the pleasant guide-book, " Trenton 
Falls " ; edited by N. P. Willis. ) 

Entering the primeval forest near the hotel, the edge of the canon is 
soon reached, with a pleasant path turning along the cliff" to the 1. and 
passing to the High Falls (in high water this path must be taken). A 
7* 



154 Route 24. TRENTON FALLS. 

series of stairways here descends the cliff for 100 ft. to the broad stratiiin 
on the verge of the rapids. From this point the Chasm is seen, 750 ft. to 
the r. ; while up the gorge about 600 ft. is seen the Sherman Fall. Pass- 
ing along " this deep cave open at the top, .... with the sky appar- 
ently resting, like a ceiling, upon the leafy architraves," and viewing 
every variety of water-passion, the path leads under the overhanging 
cliffs to the rapids and the * Sherman FalL The water here plunges 
over a wall 33 ft. high, into which it has cut a deep perj^endicular chan- 
nel. Cliffs 150 ft. high tower over the ravine at this point, and a stairway 
leads up alongside and " in very close quarters with the cataract " to the 
parapet on the suniniit level. Going on for about 800 ft. farther the path 
conducts to the * High Falls, where the river first plunges over a long 
diagonal wall 40 ft. high, then sweeps along a level rock pavement and 
whitens away down a highly tilted inclined plane with 40 ft. more of descent. 
In high water, clouds of mist lit by rainbows arise here, enshrouding even 
the tall hemlocks and cedars on tln^. cliffs above. A dark, quiet basin lies 
below the Falls, and on the r. is the tall parapet of East Cliff (reached by 
road in 2^ M. from the hotel, and overlooking the creek and ravine). 
The best view of the series of Falls is from Carmichael's Point on the r. 
bank (1. side in ascending). Crossing now broad and level ledges, several 
stairways are ascended, and the visitor reaches the Rural Retreat, — a 
small house alongside of and overlooking the High Falls, where refresh- 
ments are offered. The veranda affords a pleasant resting-place. There is 
more breadth to the ravine above this j^oint, and about 600 ft. beyond is 
the Mill-Dam Fall, 14 ft. high and 100 ft. wide. Just above this is a 
broad stone platform 250 x 1,500 ft., enwalled by cedar-trees growing 
from the cliffs, and terminated by a precipice 60 ft. high. This great hall 
of Nature is called the Alhambra, and the passionate little cataract above 
it is the Cascade of the Alhambra. Beyond the cascade a broad amphi- 
theatre is entered, and the path is pursued by quaint stratified forms and 
musical waters to the romantic gorge through which the stream is cuttijig 
its way. The outer pile of these water-worn strata is called the Rocky 
Heart, since it resembles the traditional heart in its outlines. Near this 
is Jacob's Well, a deep pot-hole worn by the motion of pebbles. Some 
visitors pass on from this point to Boon's Bridge and the Fifth, or Pros- 
pect, Fall (3 M. from the hotel), but most would prefer to tui'n back here, 
and to walk to the hotel by the path on the cliff, which is gained by 
ascending from the Rural Retreat, Those who wish to ascend the chasm 
to Prospect Fall should start in the morning, dine at Prospect, and pass 
down the ravine in the afternoon. A pleasant road leads to this point in 
3 M. by the lovely valley of Cincinnati Creek, in Parker's Hollow. Be- 
sides the drives to the fine view-point on East Cliff (2| M.), and to Pros- 
pect Falls, the trout-ponds in the vicinity are well worthy of a visit. 



BOONVILLE. Route 24. 155 

"Most people talk of the snblimity of Trenton, but I haA'e haunted it by the 
week togetlier for its mere loveliness. The river, in the heart of that fearful 
chasm, is the most varied and beautiful assemblage of the thousand forms and 
shapes of running water that I know in tlie world. The soil and the deep- 
striking roots of the forest terminate far above you, looking like a black rim on 
tiie enclosing precipices. The bed of the river and its sky-sustaining walls are 
ot solid rock, and, with the treniejidous descent of the stream, —forming for 
miles one continuous succession of falls and rapids, — the channel is worn into 
curves and cavities which throw the clear water into forms of inconceivable 
brilliancy and variety. It is a sort of half twilight below, with here and there 
a long beam of sunshine reaching down to kiss the lip of an eddy, or form a rain- 
bow over a fall ; and the reverberating and changing echoes .... maintain a 
constant and most soothing music, varying at every step witli the varying phase 
of the current. Cascades of from 20 to 30 ft., over Avhicli the river flies with a 
single and hurrj'ing leap (not a drop missing from the glassy and bending sheet), 
occur frequently as you ascend ; and it is from these that the place takes ite 
name." (N. P. Willis.) 

1 M. beyond Trenton Falls the train reaches Prospect (Union HaU), 
1 ^ M. from the village, which is near the Fifth Trenton Fall. Convey- 
ances are furnished here for parties to the S. part of the John Brown 
Tract. The forest-road rans up the valley of W. Canada Creek, and is 
tolerable as far as Ohio. Transparent Lake (Joe's) is 32 M. from Pros- 
pect, by way of Paul's and Wilkinson's. It is 6 M. long, and is famed 
for its many trout. 3 and 5 M. distant are the N. and S, Lakes (feeders 
of the Black River Canal), which are also favorite resorts for fishermen. 
Trails lead N. from N. Lake to the Woodhull and Fulton waters. There 
is good brook-trout fi.shing on Twin Lake Stream (18-20 ]\L N. E. of 
Prospect). A road runs E., by the hamlet of Morehouseville, to Piseco 
Lake in 33 M., and to Lake Pleasant in 47 M. Stations, Remsen {Daw- 
son's Hotel), in a towai more than half whose population is Welsh; Alder 
Creek; and Boonville {Hulbert House, $ 2 a day, $6-10 a week; American 
Hntel)^ a thriving village of 1,500 inhabitants at the summit level of the 
Black River Canal, and possessed of a large country trade. This is 
perhaps the favorite entrance to the Tract. The R. R. fare from N. Y. 
to Boonville is % 6.40. 

The John Brown Tract embraced 210,000 acres of the North Woods, and 
was bought (in 1792) by John Brown, a wealthy gentleman of Providence, R. I., 
who purposed planting large colonies there. He divided it into 8 townshii)S, 
named Industry, Enterprise, Perseverance, Unanimity, Frugality, Sobriety, Econ- 
omy, and Regularity ; and the historian naively adds, " It has been said that all 
tliese social virtues are needed for the settlement of this region." In 1812 his 
son-in-law, Charles Herreshoff, tried to locate colonies here ; but after incurring 
great expense in making clearings, mills, etc., all was found to be in vain, and 
in 1819 Herreshoff committed suicide, and the settlement was broken up. The 
Tract is still unoccupied, save by hunters and lumbermen ; and while its scenery 
is far inferior to the Saranac and Ratiuette regions, it affords better sport, because 
it is so little visited. There is but scanty hotel accommodation, and sportsmen 
usually encamp during their sojourn here. 

The Hulbert House furnishes transportation, and many Brown's Tract guides 
live at Boonville. The first day's travel (by road) usually ends at the Forge Hotel 
(26 M. N. E.), near the First Fulton Lake. Dinner is obtained at Lawrence's, on 
Moose River, where is located the largest tannery in the State. Arnold's Tavern 
is 24 M. from Boonville. and 2 M . from the Forge Hotel. Nick's Lake, 3 M. by 
trail from the Forge, is famous for its trout ; and farther S. are the prolific spring- 



156 Route 24. LOWVILLE. 

holes on the S. Branch of Moose River. A trail leads to the Woodhnll Lakes in 
9 M. N. of Arnold's are Gibbs Lake and the trout-hannts at the Indian Spring- 
Hole. The 8 Fulton Lakes stretch to the N. E. Irora near the Forge Hotel, 
and fomi a water avenue to tlie Raijuette Lake, 2G M. distant. Their scenery is 
very attractive, and profitable tisliiug is found along the line. Ascending Moose 
River by boat for 2^ M., First Lake (1^ M. long) is entered. The Second and 
Tliird Lakes are each 1 M. long, and are connected by short inlets. Near the 
head of Third Lake is a trail wliich leads to the top of Bald Mt. in 1 M., and 
gives a fine view of Brown's Tract. Fourth Ixike is G M. long, and is the largest 
and most beautiful of the Fulton chain. The shores are elevated and irregular, 
and several graceful islands dot tie waters. Big Moose Lake is 4 M. long, and is 
12 M. N. of Fourth Lake (4 M. of carries). The Fifth and Sixth Lakes are but 
small ponds, low-shorod and lily-covered, connected by a | M. cany. The Seventh 
Lake (a favorite cam])ing-ground) and its inlets give 4 M. of level water, followed 
by a 1 M. carry to Eiglith Lake (2 M. long). A rugged carry of Ih M. now leads 
t'> the Brown's Tract Ldct, which affords 4 M. of tortuous navigation to the 
Kaquette Lake (see page 151). Numerous jmnds and streams sparkle in the 
forests on either side of this route, and afford resorts for deer and trout. The 
IVoodhuU lAtke.'i are 20 M. from Boonville, and are sometimes visited by hunting 
parties by a fair road passing E. by White Lake. 

Port Leyden {Douglass House ; Union Hotel) has large tanneries, saw- 
mills, and iron-works. The township was early bought by the high 
sheriff of London, and was settled in 1794-96 by men of Connecticut. 
BeloAV the village are the rapids on Black River, sweeping through a deep 
narrow gorge which was formerly known as Hellgate. Sugar River lies 
to the S., and falls 100 ft. in a gorge whose walls are 100-150 ft. high. 
Below the falls is a pretty glen filled with evergreens and enwalled with 
cliffs, in Avhich are deep cavems, beyond which Sugar River disappears 
under the limestone strata and emerges about 800 ft. distant. Lyonsdale 
is 4 M. from Port Leyden, and a road leatls to Arnold's in 22 M. Lyons 
Falls ( Walton House) is at the High Falls on Black River, where the 
Avater plunges over a cliff 63 ft. high. 4 M. S. is a factory where spruce 
and poplar wood is ground into pulp, which is sent to Rome, and is made 
into paper there. The Brantingham Lake House is 8-10 M. N. E. of 
Lyons Falls, and is situated on the S. shore of a picturesque lake which 
affords good pickerel and bass fishing. There are 2 islands in the lake, 
and extensive forests line the shores. Stations, Glendale, Martinsbui-g 
(2 inns), and Lowville {HowcWs Hotel and Lanpher House, — $2 a day, 
^6-10 a week, — 2 good hotels in close rivali'y ). Lowville, the capital of 
Lewis County, is a pretty village of 2,000 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 2 
banks, 2 weekly papers, and a large country trade. It is situated in a 
hill-environed vale on Black River, and has some fine brick buildings. 
The Rural Cemetery, W. of the village, has over 1 M, of drives on a 
wooded plateau overlooking the valley. 

Thereisa valuable sidphur spring (hotel projected) 5M. N. of Lowville ; and 5-6 
M. S. W., in Martinsburg, is the Chimney Point Gulf, where Martin's Creek has 
cut a long ravine 200 - 250 ft. deep through the Utica slate formations. The gorge 
is narrow and tortUous down to the vicinity of the Cliimney, where the creek 
falls over 100 ft. and enters a Avide bowl-shaped glen with precipitous N. and W, 
sides. "As [the traveller] comes upon its brink .suddenly, its wildness strikes 
him with awe. Opposite, and on the 1., are dark, massy, perpendicular rocks; 



CARTHAGE. Route U. 157 

before him are lofty pines and liemlocks, and far, far below, as it were in the 
very bowels of the earth, through the openings in tlie foliage, indistinct glimp- 
ses are caught of the foaming rivulet, while the roar of the AvaterfaU and the 
grandeur of the surrounding landscape add an interest to the scene rarely ex- 
l^erienced." 

From Lowville is the usual entrance to the N. part of Brown's Tract, — 
the Number 4 and Stillwater districts. A tolerable road leads by Smith's 
Landing and Crystal Lake to the commodious Fenton House (18 M.) in 
township No. 4, and fronting on Beaver Lake, which is a renowned deer- 
haunt. The Francis, Crooked, Sand, and Sunday Lakes, and other trout- 
resorts, are in tliis vicinity ; and 3 - 4 M. N. W. is the beautiful scenery 
around Eagle Falls. It is 28 M. from No. 4 to Smith's Lake. Tlie rugged 
remains of the old military road from Crown Point to Carthage may be 
followed (by wagons) for 11 M. E. from No. 4 to Stillwater ( WardwelVs 
tavern). The forest is studded on every side with ponds which aiford 
good fishing. The Wolf Ponds and Red Horse Chain are on the N. ; and 
Big Moose Lake lies to the S. E. 12-14 M. N. E. is Albany Lake, which 
is over 5 M. long, and is a favorite sporting-ground on account of the 
(leer and trout which are found there. 2-3 M. N. of Albany is Smith's 
Lake, the finest in the Tract. It is about 3 M. in diameter, and abounds 
in speckled and salmon trout. The scenery is very attractive, — its most 
prominent feature being Smith's Rock, a far-viewing cliff on the W. shore, 
— while many islands dot the surface of the waters. Little Tupper Lake 
is but 6 M. E, of Smith's Lake (by Charley Pond). By a line of ponds 
and carries, Beach's Lake is reached (14 - 15 M. S. ), from which a carry 
of 4 M. leads to Raquette Lake (see page 151). 

Croglian {Nortz Hotel) is a French village 10 M. N. E. of Lo^wille (daily stage). 
4 M. from this place is the old Prussian settlement of Naumburgh, with its 2 
churches, and 4 M. N. E. is the liamlet of Belfort, whence a road runs 9 M. N. E. 
to the famous fishing-grounds on the S. branch of tlie Oswegatchie. 8 M. N. W. 
of Lowville is Copenhagen (Washington Hotel), within 1 M. of which are the 
High Falls, where Deer River descends IGO ft. in a deep gorge of the Trenton 
limestone. 2 M. below are the King's Falls (a descent of 40 ft.), so named because 
they were much admired by Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Spain, etc. 

Carthage {Levis House ; Adam.s) is reached by the railroad 16 M. N. 
of Lowville. It is an important manufacturing village on Black River, 
and is the W. terminus of the old State Road, which leads to Crown Point 
in 133 M. Much of this road lias been re-Avon by the forest, but the sec- 
tion from Carthage to Stillwater (35 M.) is kept in tolerable repair. The 
Oswegatchie fishing-grounds are reached byway of Harrisville (inn), which 
is 20 M. N. E., and 3 M. from Lake Bonaparte. 

Joseph Bonaparte, brother of the great Napoleon, Count de Survilliers, ex-king 
of Spain, Naples, and the Sicilies, was in France during a season of terrible battles 
and national apprehension. He met Le Ray de Chaumont, who then owned and 
was colonizing large sections of Northern New York, and said to him, " Here I 
live in the street, with several ambulances loaded with gold and jewels. Take 
these treasures, and give me part of your American forests." Le Ray objected on 
account of the Prince's ignorance of the character of the wild woodlands ; but 



158 Route 24- SACKETT'S HARBOR. 

Bonaparte answered, " I will talje your word for that ; the gold may Ije stolen 
from me in an hour." He came to his wild domain in 1S29, and built a roomy 
house (with one section bidlet-proof) at the Natural Bridge, where the Indian 
River flows for several rods under the level strata of limestone, forming a cavern 
where large stalactites are fomid. 

" Here he forgot La Granja's glades. And sweet Sorrento's deathless shades, 

Escurial's dark and gloomy aome, In his f ar-ofi' secluded home." 

He was accustomed to entertain his many guests by fishing and hunting parties, 
and for them he built a small house on *Iiake Bonaparte, which covers 1,200 
acres. The lake "has several wild rocky islands withm it, and is environed by 
bold rocky shores, alternating with wooded swamps and intervales, presenting 
altogether one oftlie most i)icturesque .•ind quiet woodland scenes which the great 
forest affords. " At Harrisville the Polish Prince iSulkowski spent several years 
of exile, but in 1856 was restored to his hereditary honors and returned home. A* 
road leads N. E. from Harrisville by Pitcairn to the wide forest-town of Fine, 
near Cranberry Lake. A railroad is jirojected from Carthage to Harrisville. 
There are many Swiss colonists in this vicinity. 

The railroad runs W. 28 M. from Cartilage down the Black River Valley 
(crossing Route 25 at Watertoum) to Sackett's Harbor (the Earl House 
and Poi-ter House are summer hotels ; Grafton House). This is one of 
the finest harbors on the lakes, and is spoken of as a terminus for the 
Hoosac Tunnel route to Boston. The Madison Barracks are here, and are 
generally kept garrisoned. 

Sackett's Harbor was the chief naval station on the lakes during the War of 
1812, and millions of dollars were spent here for public works. In July, 1812, it 
was attacked by a British fleet of 5 frigates (82 cannon), but after a long bombard- 
ment the assailants were driven off with heavy loss. One shot from the shore 
batteries kiUed and wounded 32 men on the Royal (leorge. In Sept., 1812, Com. 
Chauncey sailed from the harbor with 10 vessels (64 guns), but was soon forced 
back by Com. Sir James Yeo, with a superior force. For 2 years war- vessels were 
built here, while the British were fully as active at Kingston. The fleet which 
had the most guns would sweep Lake Ontario until the opposing fleet received a 
new vessel, when it woidd flee to port and conmicnce building. In May, 1813, 
Sir James Yeo attacked Sackett's Harbor with 1,000 soldiers, 6 frigates, and 96 
cannon. A panic ensued among the militia, and in the flight § 500,000 worth of 
supplies and a frigate were burnt. 2 war- vessels ran up Black River and were 
saved. The Albany volunteers and the regulars retired slowly before the enemy 
until they reached the barracks, where a firm stand was made. Meanwhile Fort 
Tompkins was firing steadily, and small parties of the routed militia were gatlier- 
ing on the British flanks. Sir George Prevost commanded a retreat, and em- 
barked his troops after a loss of 261 men (American loss, 131). In 1814 the place 
w\ns secured by Forts Tompkins, Pike, Virginia, and Kentucky (with 84 guns), and 
by fortified barracks for 4,500 men. The garrison was conijiosed of 6,000 N. Y. 
militia. Gens. Pike and Covington and several other officers who fell in battle 
were buried here (in unmarked graves). In Aug., 1814, Com. Chauncey sailed 
hence with the Superior, 62, Molunck, 42, Pike, 28, Madison, Jefferson, and Jones, 
each 22, and the Syl2)h and Oneida, each 16 guns. With this powerful fleet he 
thought that the question of naval supremacy was settled, and blockaded Sir 
James Yeo at Kingston. A month later, Yeo finished the St. Lawrence, an im- 
mense 112-gun.ship, with a crew of 1,000 men, and Cliauncey fled to Sackett's Har- 
bor, where he was immediately blockaded, lie commenced the building of 2 
mammoth frigates, the Neiu Orleans and the Chippewa, of 120 guns each, and would 
soon have regained the mastery of the lake, but the war closed before his levi- 
athans were launched, and the costly fleets were rendered useless, and were sold 
for commercial purposes. The Chippewa wns taken to pieces, but the iVe?t' Orleans 
still remains on the stocks, and has been housed over. On Sandy Creek, S. of the 
Harbor, a British boat expedition was attacked by 150 regulars under 2 Georgian 
officers, and lost 68 killed and wounded, 170 prisoners, and 7 guns. 



WATERTOWN. Route 25. 159 

After leaving Carthage the main line passes 13 M. N. through the for- 
est to Philadelphia, where it crosses Route 25. 7 M. beyond this point 
the train reaches Theresa (Getman House), at the High Falls of the In- 
dian River. From Theresa Junction the line has been prolonged to JMor- 
ristown, on the St. Lawrence River, opposite Brockvilie. The train now 
crosses the towns of Orleans and Chiyton, and stops at Clayton (Hubbard 
House), on the St. Lawrence, whence steamboats run to Alexandria Bay 
(see Route 28) on the arrival of trains. 

25. Rome to Ogdensburg and Alexandria Bay. 

By the Rome, Watertown and Ogdeiiaburg R. R. from the city of Rome (see 
Route "26). Three express-trains run daily (in summer). Tliis is the usual route 
to Alexandria Bay, 25 hrs. from New York (fare from N. Y. to Cape Vint-ent, 
$8.20), and drawing-room cars run as far as Cape Vincent, wiiere the river-steam- 
el's are taken (3 hrs. to Alexandria Ray). Tickets and information may be obtained 
at 413 Broadway, N. Y.. and the Grand Central Depot. Fares from Rome to 
Richland, §1.30; Oswego, §2; AVatertown, §2.20; Cape Vincent, $2.90; Rich- 
ville, .i?3.45; Ogdensburg, §4.30 ; Potsdam, $4.25. 

Stations: Rome; Taberg, 11 M. ; McConnelsville, 13; Camden, 18; W. Cam- 
den, 23 ; Williamstown, 28 ; Kasoag, 31 ; Albion, 37 ; Richland, 42 (branch line to 
Pulaski, 46 ; Sand Hill, 50 ; Mexico, 55 ; New Haven, 60 ; Scriba, 64 ; Oswego, 
71) ; Sandy Creek, 47 ; Mannsville, 52 ; Pierrepont Manor, 54 ; Adams, 59 ; Adams 
Centre, 62 ; Watertown, 72 (branch to Brownville, 75 ; Limerick, 79 ; Chaumont, 
85 ; 3 M. Bay, 88 : Rosiere, 92 ; Cape Vincent, 96) ; Sanford's Corners, 78 ; Evans' 
Mills, 83 ; Philadelphia, 90 ; Antwerp, 96 ; Keene's, 101 ; Gouverneur, 108 ; Rich- 
ville, 116 ; De Kalb June, 123 (branch to Canton, 131 ; Potsdam, 142; Potsdanx 
Junction, 148); Rensselaer Falls, 130 ; Heuvelton, 135 ; Ogdensburg, 142. 

The line runs N. W. from Rome across the upper part of Oneida Co. 
Stations : Taberg, near the ravines on Fall Creek ; McConnelsville; Cam- 
den (Whitney House), a manufacturing village; W. Camden, Williams- 
town, Kasoag, Albion, and Richland (Mellen's Hotel), which is near the 
Richland Trout Ponds, where boats and tackle are furnished to fishermen 
upon payment of a roimd fee. 

A branch road diverges from Richland to Oswego, 29 M. S. W. Stations : 
Pulaski (Grafs Hotel), a semi-capital of Oswego Co., with 2,000 inhabitnnts ; 
Mexico (Empire House), a flourishing village which is called " the Mother of Coun- 
ties," because at its settlement (in 1792) it included a greater part of 4 counties ; 
New /fa ve7i (village 1 M. 8. W. of station) ; and Scriba. This district is noted for its 
large crops of apples, and borders on the lake. Beyond Scriba the line passes r)ut 
on the shore of Lake Ontario, sweeps around close under the ramparts of Fort 
Ontario, and stops at Oswego (see Route 32). 

5 M. beyond Richland tlie main line meets the Syracuse Div., R. W. & 
0. R. R., which runs S. to Syracuse in 44 M. The wealthy farming town 
of EUisburgh is now traversed. Adams (Cooper House) is a village of 
1,800 inhabitants, with 4 churches and the Hungerford Collegiate Institute. 
From Adams Centre (Merchant.s' Hotel) daily stages run to Belleville (5 
M. S. W.) and Henderson ^ M. W., near Lake Ontario). Watertown 
(* Woodruff House ; American; Kirhy) is a prosperous city of 9,336 
inhabitants, with large factories on the rapids of Black River. The busi- 
ness part of the city is on the spacious square near the station, which is 



160 Route 25. CAPE VINCENT. 

surrounded by substantial brick blocks. In the centre are two parked 
lawns and an elegant bronze fountain. A large retail trade is done by 
the shops in the two glass-roofed arcades near the square. Washington 
St. is a broad rural avenue which is lined with villas. There are 10 
churches, 10 banks, and 1 daily and 3 weekly papers. The Brookside 
Cemetery is Ih M. S. of Watertown, and the new Calvary Cemetery, 2 M. 
distant, is favorably situated in a broad bend of the Black River. There 
are extensive caverns in the limestone formation imder the city. Water- 
town was founded in 1800, and is tlie capital of Jefferson County. 

The Sackett's Harbor Branch of the Utica & Black River R. R. crosses 
the present route at Watertown. A branch of the R., W., & 0. R. R. 
runs thence N. W. 24 M. to Cape Vincent. After passing the stations 
Brownville and Limerick, tlie branch line approaches Chaumont Bay, on 
which are the stations of Chaumont ( Union Hotel) and 3 M. Point. Tlii.s 
capacious bay affords large and lucrative seine-fisheries, lake-herring and 
white-fish being very abundant, Tlie bay is nearly landlocked, and on 
its shores are several ship-yards. It was named in honor of Le Ray de 
Chaumont, a French gentleman who owned extensive tracts in N. N. Y. Tlie 
limestone cpiarries in this town are of great value, and have furnished ma- 
terial for many of the public works along the lake. Cape Vincent {St. 
Lawrence Hotel) is an active commercial port, with grain-elevators, 
wharves, and a lighthouse. It was settled in 1809 in a favorable location 
near the efflux of tlie St. Lawrence from Lake Ontario. The Vennont 
Central propellers stop here, and a line of ferry-boats runs to Kingston, 
Canada. A fine steamer leaves Cape Vincent (in summer) on the arrival 
of the trains at 9.35 a. m. and 4.55 p. m., and, after touching at Clayton, 
reaches Alexandria Bay at noon and at 7,45 P. M, 



The main line nms N. E. from Watertown across the wilderness iovm 
of Le Ray (2 stations), crosses Route 24 at Philadelphia, and passes 
Antwerp (Proctor House), a village on Indian River, near several large 
iron-mines. Rossie (with valuable iron and lead mines) is next crossed, 
and the train stops at Gouverneur {Qer^iral Hotel; Van Buren House), 
on the Oswegatchie River. This tract belonged to Gouverneur Morris, 
and was settled in 1805. The Wesleyan Seminary is located here, and 
the Riverside Cemetery, opposite the village, has pleasant grounds. The 
North Woods are sometimes entered from this station, by a road which 
leads by Fullersville and Edwards to Fine, 25 M. E. Cranberry Lake is 
11 M. from Fine, by boating up the Oswegatchie River, Cranberry Lake 
to the Tupper Lakes, see page 149. Passing Richfield station, the train 
stops at De Kalh Junction. 

A railroad 26 M. long was built from E, De Kalb to the Clifton Iron 
Mines, toward Cranberry Lake. It is now disused. Daily stages run 



THE N. Y. CENTRAL R. R. Rmite 26. 161 

from the junctiou to Clarksboro" (Clifton Hotel) 24 M. S. E.; 12 M. be- 
yond which (poor road) is Cranberry Lake, a sheet 15 M. long, whose 
low shores have been flooded until the trees have died. Boats and guides 
may be obtained at the dam, 10 M. from Clarksboro', and the surrounding 
forests abound in haunts of trout and deer (but are deficient in scenery). 

The main line passes on from De Kalb to Canton {Bridges' Hotel), the 
capital of St. Lawrence County, with factories on the water-power afforded 
by Grass River. Canton is the seat of St. Laivrence University, a modern 
institution of the Universalist Church, with 70-80 students and a hand- 
some library building. Station, Potsdam {American House), a large 
factory village on the Raquette River, where the State Normal School is 
located. Potsdam to the Wilderness, see page 148. At Potsdam Junc- 
tion the line intersects the Lake Champlain R. R. (Route 14). A branch 
R. R. runs N. W. from De Kalb Junction, near the Oswegatchie River, to 
Ogdensburg (see Route 28). 

26. New York to Utica, Rochester, and Niagara Falls. 

By the N. Y. Central and Hudson River R. R., wliich is a consolidation in one 
tnink-line of several smaller railroads. " From the time it leaves New York 
until it reaches Buffalo or Suspension Bridge, it traverses the gai-den of N. Y. 
State, rich in agricultural and industrial resources, and teeming with a large pop- 
ulation." The road and its equipment cost §63,300,000; and immense amounts 
are now being expended in laying a quadruple track throughout the whole line, to 
aecouunodate the Western freight. Wagner's drawing-room and sleeping-cars are 
attached to the fast trains, and the road is laid with steel rails. New York to 
I'oughkeepsie, 4 hrs.; to Albanv, 5.^ hrs. ; to Utica, 8^ hrs.; to Rochester, 14 hrs.; 
to Buffalo, 17 hrs. ; to Niagara Falls, 17 hrs. 

Fares. — New York to Poughkeepsie, $1.46; to Albany, $3.10; Fort Plain, 
S4.-^S; Utica, §5; Syracuse, §6.06; Auburn, $6.58; Rochester, $7.68 ; Batavia, 
SS.30; Buffalo, $9.25; Niagara Falls, $9.25. Also to Burlington, Vt., $8.65; 
Montpelier, $10.30; Montreal, $12.05; Lake Luzerne, N. Y.. $5.15; Coopers- 
t )wn, $6.15 ; Boonville, $6.40 ; Cape Vincent, $8.80 ; Osweso, $7.25 ; Clifton 
Springs, $7.34. To Toronto, Ont., $12.25; Cleveland, $14.25"; Detroit, $16.25 ; 
Cincinnati, $20; Chicago, $22; Milwaukee, $25; St. Louis, $27; St. Paul, 
$37.25; Memphis, $38.25; Vicksburg, $47; Mobile, $45; New Orleans, $50; 
Umaha. $39.50 ; Salt Lake City, $119.50 ; San Francisco, $139.50 ; Portland, Or., 
$175.50. 

stations. — N. Y. to Albany, see page 62. From N. Y. to Albanv, 142 M. ; 
Schenectady, 159; Hoffman, 168; Amsterdam, 175; Tribes' Hill, 180^; Fonda, 
185^ ; Yost's, 191 ; Sprakers, 194 ; Palatine Bridge, 197 ; Fort Plain, 200 ; St. 
Johnsville, 206 ; Little Falls, 215^ ; Herkimer, 223 ; Ilion, 225 , Frankfort, 227 ; 
Utica, 237 ; Whitesboro', 240J ; Oriskany, 213V ; Rome, 251 ; Vei-ona, 259^ ; Oneida. 
264 ; Canastota, 269 ; Canaseraga, 273 ; Chittenango, 275 ; Kirkville, 279*; Manlius, 
282 ; Syracuse, 239^ ; {Old Road) Camillus, 298 ; Mareellus, 300 ; Skaneateles, 307 ; 
Sennett, 310 ; Auburn, 315 ; Cayuga, 326 ; Seneca Falls. 331 ; Waterloo, 334 ; Ge- 
neva, 341 ; Phelps, 349 ; Clifton Springs, 353 ; Shortsville, 357J ; Canandaigua, 
363^ ; Farmington, 3G',U ; Fisher's, 377 ; Pittsford, 384 ; Rochester, 392 ; Mem- 
phis, 302 ; Jordan, 307" ; Weed.sport, 311 ; Port BjTon, 314^ ; Savannah, 322 ; 
Clyde, 328 ; Lyons, 335 ; Newark, 340 ; Palmyra, 34SA ; Maeedon. 353 ; Fairport, 
360* ; Rochester, 370^ ; Chili, 381 ; Churchville, 385 '. Bergen, 388 ; Byron, 395 ; 
Batavia, 402^ ; Crofts, 408^ ; Corfu, 414 ; Crittenden, 419 ; Wende, 422 ; Grimes- 
ville, 42S ; Forks, 431 ; Buffalo, 440 ; Niagara, 449 ; Cleveland, 622 ; Cincinnati, 
880 ; Chicago, 979 ; St. Louis, 1,265 ; Salt Lake City, 2,537 ; San Francisco, 3,378. 

New York to Albany, see Route 8. 



1G2 Rmte26. SCHENECTADY. 

Passing out through the streets of Albany, the train soon reaches TT^. 
Albany, with its extensive cattle-yards, and with car and machine shops 
employing nearly 1,300 men. Tlie line iu)\v approaches the Mohawk, 
and in 17 M. from Albany reaches Schenectady [Given' s Hotel; Car- 
ley's), a city of 11,026 inhabitants, situated on a broad intervale near the 
river. It has 14 churches, 2 daily papers, and 2 banks; iron-works which 
have made 90 iron bridges for the Central R. R., and othei-s which make 
75 locomotives yearly. At the head of a hillside square on the E. is an 
arsenal of the State, near the pretentious Methodist Church. In the W. 
part of the city is the quaint old St. George's Church and an elegant 
Gothic church, while the old college buildings are near the river. On 
the E. is the Vale Cemetery, with a monument to 57 Revolutionary 
soldiers amid large pine groves. Union University is situated on the 
heights over the city, and has 2 large buildings with long wings, between 
which is the costly and ornate * Library building, of stone, with Scotch 
granite columns, and forming a polygonal figure. The collections of 
apparatus and specimens are large, and include the Wheatley Collection 
of minerals and shells ; and the library is of great value. A school 
of civil engineering and analytical chemistry is attached to the Univer- 
sity. 

Schenectady was assaulted at midnight, Feb. 8, 1601, by 250 Frenchmen and 
Indians. G8 pei-sons were mas.sacred, and 27 were led into t-aptivity ; while the 
town and church were given to the flames. Union College was founded in 1795 
Ity a union of several religious sects, and is richly endowed. Eliphalet Nott was 
its president from 1804 until 1866. 

Leaving Schenectady, the University is seen on the r., and the line 
crosses the Erie Canal and Mohawk River on a long iron bridge, and trav- 
erses those alluvial plains of Glenville wliich were called Maalioyck and 
Woestiiia by the ancient Dutch colonists. On the 1. is the fruitful Bouw- 
land, and Hoffman's Ferry is approaclied by the Touareune Hills. The 
ferry was established by Hermanns Vedder in 1790. Glenville was settled 
by the Dutch in 1665, and was on the manor of Sander Leendertse Glen. 
Passing the villages of Van Vechten and Cranesville, the train reaches 
Amsterdam {Arnold House), a prosperous factory village of 5,426 inhab- 
itants, situated in a fertile farming country at the outlet of Chuctenunda 
{" twin-sisters ") Creek. On the broad Mohawk intervales are plantations 
of broom-corn, which flourishes in the deep alluvial loam; and the hill- 
country is devoted to pasturage, dairy products being an important source 
of revenue. Daily stages run from Amsterdam to Northville (24 M. N.), 
connecting with stages for Lake Pleasant (Wednesday and Saturday). 

Tribes' Hill is a rural hamlet 6 M. W. of Amsterdam, and derives its name 
from a mound where the Indians were accustomed to hold their councils. This 
district was held by the valiant Mohawks, who were conciliated by the settlers, 
and being hostile to the French ou account of Champlain's raid in 1609, they 



TRIBES' HILL. Route 26. 1G3 

formed valuable auxiliaries in the early parai)aigus to the N. Between 1843 and 
1648 the Jesuits labored ainon^ them, and fearlessly f.)ll.)\ved to niaityrdoui their 
consecrated leader. Fathor Jo^ues, tiie disc-overerut' Lake tit. Saorement. In 1671 
they led their proselytes to Canada, where tiie Moliawk dialect is still jiresewed 
at Caughnawaga. Tlie heathen who remained streu-jthened the tribal " castles," 
and shielded the Anglo-Dutch colonies from French attacks. Several raids from 
Montreal swept over the valley, and were repaid by a movement of the wliole 
Mohawk nation upon that city, in which it was laid in ruins, and hundreds of 
Frenchmen were massacred. In 1G92 the French harried the valley with strong 
forces, and destroyed the Indian castles, cirryiug back 390 captive warriors. In 
1711 Fort Hunter was built near Tribes* Hill, and Queen Anne's Chapel was soon 
afterward erected, and was furnished with a communion service by Queen Anno. 
It stood near the castle of Osscuncnon, and was fortified with artillery in the Ilevo- 
liitifm. About 1710 large numbers of immi:?rants from the German Palatinate 
settled here, and mingled with the Holland men. In 1735 Admiral Sir Peter 
Warren acquired abroad estate in this region, and sent his young nephew, Wm. 
Johnson, as his agent. In 1740 lie built a large and well-fortified stone mansion 
lietween Tribes' Hill and Amsterdam, and lived in great state and elegance. ' He 
1 I rued the Moiiawk language, and frecpiently adopted their dress, and soon ac- 
(liiired an almost boundless influence over them. He commanded thearmy which 
dt feated Dieskau at tlie Battle of Lake George, and was made a baronet for that 
ailiievement. In 1758 he led his red warriors in Abercrombie's army, and from 
Mt. Defiance watched the disastrous attack on Ticonderoga. He died suddenly 
in 1774, and it is now supi)osed that he committed suicide to avoid making the 
awful decision to whom his allegiance was due, — his king or his country. His 
sons-in-law and heirs joined the royalists, and left their mansions (near Amster- 
dam ; Guy Park is still standing), leading bands of Mohawks and Tories to the 
British army. These lords of the valley made frequent forays through the settle- 
ments, witli their Indians and tlie regiment called "Johnson's Greens," but their 
lieutenants were badly defeated at the siege of Rome (Fort Stanwix). The Mo- 
liawk region was utterly devastated by these tierce raids, and its inhabitants were 
scattered. In 1780 Sir John Jolinsouled 500 men against Tribes' Hill, and com- 
mitted great devastations ; but in a second raid (in 1781) the militia gathered with 
promptitude and de eated the Tory forces. The broad feudal domains of the 
Johnsons were confiscated by Congress, and the valley was occupied by men of 
New England. 

Station, Fonda [Fonda Hotel), the capital of Montgomery Count)', 
pleasantly situated on the Mohawk, and occupying the site of the ancient 
Indian village where the Jesuits were massacred. It was settled by the 
Dutch, and named in honor of Douw Fonda, and was twice destroyed by 
Sir John Johnson's marauders. 

A railway runs N. from Fonda 26 M. to North ville, passing through Johnstown, 
a populous village in the Cayadutta Valley, and the capital of Fulton County. 
I M. N. W. of tlie village is Johnson Hall, the mansion erected by Sir Will. 
Johnson in 1761. and where he ruled in baronial state until his self-inflicted 
death in 1774. His son, Sir John, armed his Scotch tenantry against the colonies, 
but was taken prisoner and paroled. The head-quarters of royalism in N. Y. was 
at Johnson Hall until a national force advanced against it (1776), when the loyal 
knight and his retainers fled through the wilderness to Canada. The last of 
his daring attacks Avas made in order to recover the family i)late, which had been 
buried at the Hall. In 1781 a sharp action was fought here between 600 Tories and 
the American militia. The British government repaid Johnson for his seques- 
trated estates by a grant of $300,000 and a general's commission. Sir William 
, lived 40 years in these forests, and liad over 100 children. His grave is near 
the Johnstown Episcopal Church. Gloversville is 4 M. N. of Johnstown, 
and has 6,200 inhabitants, with 7 churches and 2 weekly papers. It is famous for 
its glove manufactories, and it is claimed that more heavy gloves and niitteus are 
made liereabouts than in the remainder of the U. S. Tlie buckskins were formerly 
brought from the N. Wilderness, but are now imported from remote States. 
Lake Pleasant is 46 M. N. of Gioversville (railroad to Northville, whence 



1G4 Route 26. SAGEVILLE. 

st.igcs run to the Lake. 20 M., on Wednesdays and Saturdays). The road passes 
(1.) the Mayfield Mts. and ascends the Sa<'andaga Valley, with tall nits, on either 
side, the country being thinly populated and rugged. At Pickleville the valley is 
left, and the road crosses the ridges to ^agfri/^c (Lake Pleasant Hotel, onhei chts 
overlooking the lake and village), the capital of Hamilton County, a rocky and 
sterde region, without railroad or newspaper, and witli but 2,9G0 inhabitants ou 
1,745 square M. of area. Sageville is pleasantly located on an eminence between 
Lake Pleasant and Round Lake, which here closely apjiroach each other. Lake 
Pleasant is 4 M. long and 1 M. wide, and is bordered by high hills. Guides from 
the hotels conduct to the l»est fishing and hunting grounds. The Sturgis House is 
a large summer hotel, 4 M. N. E. of Kageville. and near the outlet of tlie lake. 
Hound Lake is .just N. of Sageville, and is LJ M. wide, with numerous capes and 
islands. Hamilton. Little Long, Ox Bow, and other lakes are near Sageville. 16 
M. N. by road is Lewey Lake, containing 2 square M. and 1,711 ft. high, with the 
noble Snowy Mt. near its shores rising to a height of 3,859 ft. Tlie Ra(iuette Lake 
region is visited from Sageville bv JessuiVs River. Indian and Blue Mt. Lakes (f»7 
M. ; a;i M. by water). Piseco Lake is 8 M. S. W. of Sageville (by a road lead- 
ing along Ox Bow Lake). It is ti^ X 1 i M., and has bohl and picturesque shores, 
esi)e<ially near the outlet. The Sacandaga River and Gerundegut Bay afford good 
fronting. .\t the head of the lake is the" deserted hamlet of Piseco. Numerous 
lakes stud th(i broad forests on every side, and rugged and primitive scenery is 
everywhere found. 

The Garog:a Lakes and tlieir connected waters form the reservoirs of the 
Mohawk, and aie reached by plank road from Fonda (18 M.). The chief of these 
sequestered lakes are the Stink, Caiiada, Trout, and Green Lakes ; and tlie forest 
taverns are much frequented by sportsmen in pursuit of the game and fish which 
liere abound. Pine Lake is 4 M. long, and is surrounded by tall pine groves. 
The E. Garoga Lake is 3 M. long, and is situated amid rugged scenery. 



Beyond Fonda the main line passes Yost's and the canal-village of Yates- 
ville, and then approaches the high hills called The Noses, near which is 
Mitchell's Cave, witli several rooms hung with stalactites. Stations, 
Spraker's, and Palatine Bridge, with a bridge crossing the Mohawk to 
Canajoharie (Kirhy House), a pleasant village on the S. bank. This dis- 
trict was settled by Palatine Germans in 1713, and was ravaged by the 
Tories during the Revolution. 

After Butler's raid on Fort Plain in 1780, when 53 houses were destroyed and 
76 persons were killed or ca])tured, he was attacked by the garrison of Stone 
Arabia (a handet N. E. of Palatine Bridge). At the close of a sharp action iu 
Avhich the assailants were annihilated. Sir John Johnson led the Tories in retreat, 
and repelled the militia of the valley in a skirmish in St. Johnsville. The militia 
had made a forced march of 50 M., and were commanded by Gen. Van Rensselaer, 
but, becoming confused during a night attack on Johnson, they were withdrawn 
and the Tories escaped. Sharon Springs is 12 M. S. of Palatine Bridge and is 
reached by a daily stage, passing through the rui-al villages of Canajoharie. 

Station, Fort Plain ( Union Hall), a large village over which is seen 
(r.) the Fort Plain Seminary. During an attack upon this village in 1780 
(the garrison being absent) the women dressed themselves in male attire, 
and manned the walls so effectually that the enemy withdrew in alann. 
3 M. from Fort Plain is the ancient Lutheran Church, which was endowed 
by the Nellis family in 1770. 4 M. S., on a narrow peninsula, are fortifi- 
cations of the ancient mound-builders; and the hill \ M. N. W, of the 
village was the site of Fort Plain, a government post which was erected 



LITTLE FALLS. Route 26. 165 

by a French engineer and was the strongest fort in tlie valley. Station, 
St. Johnsville, named from the ancient Churcli of St. John, the site of the 
Revolutionary Forts House and Hill. Near this place, after the battle of 
Stone Arabia, the Tories repulsed the valley militia under Van Rensselaer. 
East Creek is near the moutli of E. Canada Creek, whicli is crossed by an 
iron bridge 200 ft. long. The train now passes along the Manheim inter- 
vales, with the Danube hills across the river. At Indian Castle (1.) Sir 
Wm. Johnson built a mission cliurch in 1768; and the celebrated Mohawk 
chiefs Brant and King Heudrick, and the American General Herki- 
mer (mortally wounded at Oriskany) residetl in Danube. Herkimer's 
(Erghemar) mansion, built of imported brick in 1763, is still standing. 
Little Falls {Benton House ; Ilinchman's) is a busy manufacturing vil- 
lage situated in the narrow gorge of the Moliawk. Its houses are built 
on the steep declivities to tlie N. ; and the margin of the falling river is 
lined with factories. The river here breaks through a ridge 5 - 600 ft. 
high, which is thought to have been tlie E. shore of a great lake reaching 
to Ontario until various erosive agencies cut through the barrier and 
drained the basin by an outlet through the Mohawk Valley. Little Falls 
is the market-town of Herkimer County, famous for its rich cheese, and 
in 1868-69, 213,707 cheeses, weighing 6,873 tons, were shipped from this 
point. Monday is the market-day, when farmers from the fertile pastur- 
age-lands of Herkimer throng the streets. The river falls 45 ft. in \ M., 
affording a fine water-power; and the bold rocky hills tower on either 
side and are pierced with many small caverns. Richfield Springs is 12 M. 
S. W. of Little Falls. Station, Herkimer, a pronunent point for the 
shipment of cheese and the capital of Herkimer County (settled by the 
Palatinates in 1722). Near the Court House, on the point of Stone 
Ridge, stood Fort Dayton, a prominent frontier post during the ti-oublous 
days of the Revolution. A bridge crosses the river to the village of Mo- 
hawk, whence horse-cars run to Ilion. 2 M. from Herkimer the train 
stops at Ilwn, a place of 3,876 inhabitants, with 4 churclies, a bank, and 
2 weekly papers. The village is S. of the river, and its reason for being 
is the Remington rifle-factory, with long ranges of buildings, where 1,000 
men are employed. The capacity of the works is 800 rifles and many 
small-arms daily; and several remote and warlilce nations have drawn 
their armaments from this peaceful village. 

Over 700,000 breech-loading rifles liavebeen made here, including 50,000 for the 
U. S., 60,000 for Egypt, 10,000 for Rome, 3,000 for Japan, 42,000 for Denmark, 
30,000 for Sweden, and 75,000 for Spain. During 7 months of the Franco-Prussian 
War, the works ran night and day. and made 155,000 rifles for France. Costa 
Rica and several S. American Republics have drawn their armaments from Ilion. 
Large quantities of agricultural implements are made here ; also sewing-macliines 
and cotton-gins. The village society was made lively during the winter of 1873-74 
by the residence here of several officers of the Spanish Republic, who were super- 
intending the preparation of armaments to be used against Carlos and Cartagena. 



166 Route 26, UTICA. 

Beyond Frankfort (whence 850,000 pounds of cheese are sent yearly) 
the train crosses the Mohawk River on an iron bridge, and enters the city 

of 

TJtica. 

Hotels. — *Butterfield House, §3-4 a day, Genesee St. ; Baggs' Hotel, near 
the siatiou : American ; Dudley. $ 2. Horse-cars run from the station out on 
Genesee St to New Hartford ; to the Lunatic Asylum and Whitesboro' ; on Deer- 
iield St • and on Bleecker St. Railroads to tlie St. Lawrence River ; to Clinton 
and Norwich • and to Bingliamton (95 M. S. AV.). The favorite excursions from 
Utica are to Trenton Fulls (see page 153), 17 M. N. ; and to the Richfield Springs, 
34 M. S. ' 

Utica is nearly in the centre of N. Y. State, and is situated on a broad 
plain S. of the Mohawk River, It has about 33,000 inhabitants, with 34 
churches, 7 banks, 2 daily and several weekly papers. There are 17 pub- 
lic schools, with 4,500 pupils. The Welsh population has 4 churches, an 
Eisteddfod, a weekly paper ( Y Drych) and the magazine Y Cyfaill oW 
Hen Wlad ; and there are 6 Gernian churches, with 3 schools and 12 
fraternities. The city water-works cost $400,000; and the fire depart- 
ment has 10 companies. Utica derives its importance from being the 
market for rich and extensive rural districts, from which several railroads 
converge on this point. Here also the Erie Canal is met by the Chenango 
Canal, which rmis S. 97 M, through the Oriskany and Chenango Valleys 
to Binghamton (and is being extended to meet the Peim. canal system at 
Athens). It was built in 1833-37 at a cost of % 2,782,124, and has 116 
rubble-stone locks, overcoming an ascent of 706 ft. and a subsequent de- 
scent of 303 ft. Genesee St. is the main thoroughfare of Utica. It runs 
from the R. R. station across the canal and by several neat churches, then 
passes long lines of villas and is prolonged into the open country. The 
City Hall is on Genesee St. and is a spacious building of cream-colored 
brick, partly owned by the U. S. The Academy of the Assumption is on 
John St. ; and the old and well-known Utica Female Academy is on 
Genesee St. (corner of Washington). The State Lunatic Asylum is a 
large and imposing building situated on a fann of 130 acres in the W. of 
the city. It was opened in 1843, and has always occupied a high rank 
among the institutions devoted to the care of the insane. 

The rise of Utica is of recent date, and it occupies the site of Fort Schuyler 
(built in 1756\ The convergence here of highways, railroads, and canals has 
greatly facilitated its progress, and large and lucrative manufactures have been 
located in the city. There are many workers in iron, brass, silver, marble, stained 
glass, cotton, and woollen ; with manufactories also of shoes, cigars, carriages, 
telegraphic instruments, organs, and head-lights. 

The line now proceeds N. W. through that fertile valley which forms 
the lowest of the passes through the great Appalachian chain of mts., and 
which was formerly a favorite Indian trail to the lakes. Passing the sta- 



ROME. Route 26. 1G7 

tions of Whitesboro' and Oriskany, iu 14 M. from Utica tlie train enters 
the city of 

Borne. 

{Stanwix Hall, $ 3 a day ; American.) The population is 11,000, and 
it has somewhat of the cosmopolitan character of its majestic Italian name- 
sake, since of its 14 churches 2 are Welsh, 2 German, and 1 Irish. Large 
rolling-mills and R. R. shops are located here; and a prosperous country 
trade is carried on. 3 w eekly papers are published, of which The Roman 
Citizen is the most prominent. The eastern Rome was the capital of the 
civilized world; the western Rome is a semi-capital of Oneida County, 
and, in default of the armaments of the imperial legions, has a small U. 
S. arsenal. The Erie Canal was commenced in 1817 at this point, and 
20 years later the Black River Canal was made from Rome to Lyons' 
Falls, connecting with navigable waters to the N. It ascends from Rome 
to the summit by 70 locks (693 ft. rise), whence it descends 386 ft. in 36 
locks. The canal is 35 M. long, and cost $3,225,000. The Romans ex- 
pect a future golden age from the convergence on their city of the N. Y. 
Central R. R., the Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg R. R. (Route 25), 
and the Rome Division of the N. Y. & 0. Midland R. R. 

The Indian portage called Deoivainsta was on the site of Rome, and was an im- 
portant strategic point in the colonial days. A level " carry " of IJ M. here 
separated the navigable waters of the Mohawk (flowing into the Hudson) and Wood 
Creek (flowing into Lake Ontario). At an early date 5 colonial forts were erected 
hi this vicinity, and in 1756 Fort Bnll was taken by M. de Lery with a Franco- 
Indian force of 362 men, flora Ogdensburgh. A large amount of stores was de- 
stroyed, and 60 men of the garrison were put to the sword. In 1756, after the 
French had taken Oswego, this whole district was abandoned, but in 1758 a pow- 
erful work called Fort Stanvvix (costing $ 300,000) was built on the site of 
Rome. It was evacuated after the Conquest of Canada, and was reoccupied by 
the 3d N. Y. regiment (700 men) in April, 1777. Later in the year it was be- 
leaguered by a detachment of 1,700 men from Burgoyne's army, under St. Leger 
and the Indian chief Brant. The militia of the county gathered quickly, and 
were being led to the relief of the fort when they were ambuscaded near Oriskany, 
and were hemmed in by overpowering forces. The militia formed a hollow circle 
and fought desperately for 6 hours, losing their chief, Gen. Herkimer, and 160 
men, but finally repelling the enemy. During this action, a sortie from the fort 
had swept through the hostile camps with fatal effect. St. Leger now began a 
formal siege of the American works, and his parallels were within 150 yards of the 
ramparts when tidings came that strong relief parties under Arnold were hurrying 
up the Mohawk Valley. The British army broke up m flight, leaving tents, bag- 
gage, artillery, and hospitals behind. 

The line runs S. W. from Rome, and passes Green's Corners and Verona. 
E. of the latter station are Vero7ia Springs (water-cure hotel), whose waters 
contain 720 grains of muriate of soda in each gallon, and are saturated 
with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, resembling the English Harrowgate' 
Springs. To the S., in the town of Vernon, lives the remnant of the 
ancient Indian nation of the Oneidas, the former owners of all this land 
for many leagues. Station, Oneida {Eagle Hotel ; National), a village 
with nearly 4,000 inhabitants, at the crossing of the N. Y. and Oswego 



168 Route 26. SYRACUSE. 

Midland R. R. (see Route 32). The line noM' runs parallel with Oneida 
Lake, but 6-8 M. S. of it. Station, Canastota, celebrated for its manu- 
factory of astronomical and jihilosophical instruments. The Cazenovia 
and Canastota R. R. runs S. W. by Perryville and Chittenango Falls to 
Cazenovia (15 M.), where it intersects the Syracuse and Chenango Valley 
R. R. Passing Canaseraga station (2 M. N. of the village), the train 
reaches Chittenango (* White Sul2)hur Springs Hotel), situated in the 
narrow valley of the outlet of the Cazenovia Lake. This village is cele- 
brated for its magnesia and sulphur springs, which are held to be effi- 
cacious in diseases of the skin, liver, and stomach. The waters are 
charged with sulphuretted hydrogen, and resemble the Fauquier White 
Sulphur Springs in Vii-ginia. Tliey flow from a ledge of rocks 1 M. S. of 
the village, and the vicinity is attractively adorned. Chittenango is not 
a fashionable resort, but is visited annually by many invalids, who use 
the medicinal waters with great benefit. Besides the hotels, there are 
several cottages for summer residents, near the waters. The once famous 
Yates Spring is now but little used. From a hill in this vicinity is ob- 
tained a pleasing view of the Oneida and Cazenovia Lakes, and the inter- 
vening country, and 2 - 3 M . above the springs the Chittenango Creek falls 
136 ft. perpendicularly over a limestone clilf. At Perryville, 2 - 3 M. E. 
of the springs, the Canaseraga Creek has a waterfall 130 ft. high. 

Stations, Kirkville, and Manlius, a, pleasant village near the once 
favorite Elk Horn Springs (1 M. N. ; sulphuretted hydrogen). Other 
mineral waters are found here, and on Limestone Creek (to the S.) is a 
waterfall 100 ft. high. Near Manlius are the Green Lakes, of which Lake 
Sodom is the chief, and is ^ M. across and 156 ft. deep. " The bottom 
is a grass-green slate ; the sides white shell marl ; and the brim black 
vegetable mould; the waters perfectly limpid. The whole appears to the 
eye like a rich porcelain bowl, filled with limpid nectar. But to the taste 
it is the Harrowgate water. The waters contain much sulphate of lime 
and sulphuretted hydrogen gas." (Prof. Silliman.) These singular 
pools are in deep chasms in the limestone, and waterless fissures in the 
vicinity retain ice until far into the summer. The Deep Spring is a sub- 
terranean stream E. of Manlius. Valuable quarries of lime and gypsum 
are worked in this town. 

Syracuse. 

Hotels. —* r. lobe Hotel, near the R. R. track, $ 3.50 ; Vanderbilt House ; Em- 
pire ; St. Cliarle??. 

Keading-Rooms. — Central Library, High School building ; Franklin In- 
stitute ; Y. M. C. A., 13 S. Salina St. ; Catholic Young Men's Assoc, 9 Lamed 
Building. Post-Office\n Bastable Block, E. Genesee St. Amusements at the Opera 
House, E. Genesee St. 

Horse-Cars to Oakwood Cemetery (2 M.), Onondaga Hollow (4 M .), Geddes 
(2 M.), and Brighton Corner, on Salina, Fayette, James, Green, E. Genesee, and 
Lodi Sts. Stages to Cicero, Euclid, Ponipey Hill, Central Square, Navarino, and 
Carditf. 



SYRACUSE. Route m. 169 

Railroads. —The SjTacuse Northern, to Sandy Creek (and Ogdensbuig) ; 
to Oran and Tunnel ; to Binghamton, 80 M. : to Oswego, 35 M. (see Route 35). 

Syracuse, the " Central City," is situated on level ground S. of Onon- 
daga Lake, and is midAvay between Albany and Buffalo. It has 54,122 
inhabitants, 9 banks, 3 daily papers, 40 churches, and 2 convents (Fran- 
ciscan and St. Anthony's) ; and is the seat of large and varied manufactures, 
deriving also much importance from being a focus of R. R. lines. It has 
several fine halls, and, from its central position, has become well known 
as the gathering-place of political and religious conventions. The streets 
are broad and level, and generally cross each other at right angles; while 
the heights in the S. E. ai-e being adorned with villas and rural streets, 
and the surrounding country is rich and fertile. The public schools have 
150 teachers, and 7,738 pupils. The Court House of Onondaga County is 
near the centre of the city, and is a handsome structure of local limestone. 
On a hill 1 M. N. E. is the Penitentiary, with accommodations for nearly 
900 convicts ; and other charitable and correctional departments occupy 
large buildings in the vicinity. The 3 Orphan Asylums, the State Asylum 
for Idiots (on a hill in Geddes), and the High School are fine building.s; 
so is also the City Hall, on Washington St. St. Vincent's Asylum is a 
striking edifice (on Madison St.), and the business blocks of Bastable, 
Granger, Larned, and Ritchie are locally much esteemed. The * Syracuse 
University is situated on the heights to the S., and has a new and costly 
building. The University was founded in 1870, is under the Methodist 
Church, and has ample endowments. The Hall of Languages was com- 
pleted in 1873, and other buildings are to be erected on the 50 acres of 
the campus. There are 18 professorships and 108 students. Connected 
with the University is a College of the Arts, divided into the two schools 
of architecture and painting, where 4 years are devoted to aesthetics, the 
modern languages, and the theory, practice, and liistory of art (15 pro- 
fessors). Tlie view from the Hall of Languages embraces the city and its 
suburbs and the long Onondaga Lake. Near this point, and seen from all 
parts of the valley, is Remoick Castle, an imposing mansion in medigeval 
castellated architecture, and surrounded by fine trees, over which its gray 
towers are seen. 

The Salt Springs are N. W. of Syracuse, near the shores of Onondaga Lako, 

and have been used ior centuries. Tlie State took control of them in 1707, since 
whi'h time about 230,000,000 bushels of salt have been made. 35 gallons of v/ater 
yield 1 bushel. There are 24 wells (150-417 ft. deej)), emi>loying 5,000 laborers, 
equipped with over 40,000 solar vats (covering 730 acres) anil 15-20,0j0 kettles. 
200,000 tons of coal are used annually, and 8-9,000,000 bushels of salt are made, 
yielding the State (from a tax of Ic. a gallon) a net revenue of |30-40,000. It is 
thought that the brine comes from vast subterranean deposits of rock-salt. Tiie 
solar vats are 16 by 18 ft , very shallow, arranged in groups of 3, protected by 
covers in rainy weather, and each yields 50 bushels during the season. The pro- 
duct of these sprin.'^s for the last 80 years would make 4 pyramids, each as large 
as t'.ie great iiyramid of Egyiit. The ]n-ocesses of evaporation and the solar works 
are w(nthy of inspection (horse-cars from Genesee St.). 



170 Route 26. ONONDAGA LAKE. 

Onondaga I^ake is 6 M. long, \\ M. wide, and 361 ft. above the sea. It is 
the remnant of a vast basin, and on its shores are found samphire and other 
marine plants. Small steamers ply between Syracuse and Phojnix, on the Oswego 
River. In this vicinity were the council centres and chief villages of the Onon- 
daga Indians, a large tribe of the Six Nations, or Iroquois Confederacy. While 
the Mohawks and Senecas were the most wnrlike of the tribes, the Onondagas 
were the conservators and guardians of the religious rites and shrines, and were 
the Levites of the Confederacy. Tlie Jesuits failed in several attempts to found 
missions here, and English colonization only began after 17S0. 

Near Liverpool, m\ the E. shore, was the chief tribal fortress, consisting of 4 
bastioned lines of palisades, 30 ft. high, provided with inner galleries and water- 
pipes to put out fires. Oct. 10, 1615, this stronghold was attacked by Cliamplain, 
with all the warriors of the Huron nation. He had a movable tower built and, 
advanced to the palisades by 200 men, while the musketeers cleared the walls. 
The Hurons then dashed in with firebrands, but were i-epulsed disastrously, and 
the palisades were flooded with water. Showers of arrows were shot from the 
fortress walls ; and after a pell-mell fight, which lasted 3 hrs., amid a horrible 
din, the dauntless Onondagas finally overcame the Franco-Huron invaders, and 
drove them into a rapid retreat. The fort was taken by the Count de Frontenac 
in 1696. In 1668 colonies of Frenchmen .and Spaniards settled in this vicinity 
(near Pomi^ey) ; but the Onondagas, Oneidns, and Cayugas united their forces, 
and fell upon the Euroi>eans on All Saints' Day, 1659. The unfortunate Eatins 
were utterly exterminated. It is held that Spaniards visited this locality shortly 
after the year 1500 ; and a sepulchral stone has been exhumed at Ponipey Hill, 
bearing Christian emblems, a Latin inscription, and the date 1520. Some distin- 
guished antiquarians advance the theory that De Soto, the discoverer of the 
Mississippi, visited Onondaga about the year 1510 ; that this was his " silver- 
bottomed lake" (glittering with crystals of salt); and that the land of Sa- 
(jiiechavia, where he experienced such intense cold, was the Susquehanna region 
of Central New York. 

The semi-civilized tribe of the Onondagas is now located on a reservation about 
6 M. S. of Syracuse, and numbers about 400 souls. Late in 1873 a sharp dissension 
arose among them about the chieftaincy of the tribe. The squaws favored one 
candidate, and an Oneida chief installed another, whereupon the contested honor 
was referred to the grand council of the Six Nations. 

The ancient highway from Albany to Buffalo followed the course of the present 
villa-lined W. Genesee St. In 1805 the first house was built on the -site of Syra- 
cuse, although settlements had been made at Salina about 1787. The Indians 
sold out in 1788, but settlement was delayed on account of the unhealthy climate, 
which, however, became salubrious when the forests were removed. "When the 
Erie Canal was finished to this point (1825) there were 300 inhabitants in Syra- 
cuse ; in 1855 there were 25,107 ; and in 1872 there were 54,122. 



From SjTacuse to Rochester the N. Y. Central R. R. has 2 lines, —the " New 
Route," following the course of the Erie Canal, and reaching Rochester in 81 M. ; 
and the " Old Route," bending S. through the lake country, and traversing 102 
M. between the cities. Tlie through trains pass over the former line ; the Old 
Route is described in Route 29. 

The train passes N. W. from Syracuse across the to\Yn of Geddes, and 
the salt-works and Onondaga Lake are seen on the r. Stations, Mempliis, 
and Jordan, a factory and canal village S. of Cross Lake. At Weedsport 
the line crosses the Southern Central R. R. Station, Port Byron (1 M. 
N. of the village), beyond which the train traverses the Montezuma 
Marshes and crosses the Seneca River near the Great Bend. On the 1. 
are 1,900 acres of marsh, producing long coarse grass, and giving name to 
the town and station of Savannah. Near the populous village of Clyde 
the train passes extensive plantations of peppermint. Thousands of acres 
in Wayne County are given to this crop, and J of the mint ttsed in the U. S. 



ROCHESTER. Route ^6, 171 

is raised here. The second and third years' crops are cnt and distilled, 
yielding 20-25 pounds of oil to the acre ($ 2- 5 a pound). 50c. a pound 
is charged for distilling the oil, which is sent to market in 1-pound bottles. 
The line now follows the Erie Canal to Lyons {Congress Hall), the capital 
of Wayne County, and a neat and pleasant village. It has 3.350 inliabi- 
tants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, 3 banks, several factories, and 20 
peppermint distilleries. From Lyons there were shipped, in 1870, 100,000 
pounds of peppermint oil, 75,000 bbls. of apples, 600,000 pounds of to- 
bacco, 3,000 bbls. of cider, and 3,000 baskets of cherries, besides large 
quantities of grain. Wayne is also probably the foremost county in the 
Union in the production of dried fruits, for whose manipulation ingenious 
machinery is used. The Court House is a fine stone building with a large 
dome and an Ionic portico. Pilgrim Port, 2 M. N. E. of Lyons, has been 
occupied successively by the Shakers, the Mormons, and the Oneida Com- 
munists. The train next enters Arcadia (townsliip), and stops at Newark, 
a village where 2,218 inhabitants support 11 churches of as many different 
sects. At this point the Central R. R. crosses the Sodus Point and South- 
ern R. R., which extends 34 M. from Gorham (on the N. Central R. R.) to 
Lake Ontario. 

Near Palmyra, Joe Smith claimed to have found the golden plates of the 
Mormon Bil)le buried in a hillside, while under the guidance of angels. He 
formed a new religious sect, and led his proselytes to Nauvoo, 111., where he 
amassed great wealth, and arrogated to himself the title of "President of the 
Church of the Latter Day Saints." After many lawless acts lie was confined in 
the county prison at Carthage, where (in 1S44) he was killed by the citizens. In 
1847 Brigham Young led the Mormons across the trackless Western plains, and 
founded Salt Lake City, in Utah Territory. The sect is still on the increase, and 
has converted the district S. of Salt liake into a rich agricultural land. Spiritual- 
ism (or spiritism) also dates its origin from the ancient domain of the sacerdotal 
and superstitious Onondagas ; and its first "rap" was heard by the Fox familj', 
March 31, 1849, at Hydesville, 7 M. from Palmyra. The austere and sancti- 
monious Christian sect called the Free Methodists hold their camp-meetings near 
Palmyra. 

After leaving Palm>Ta the line nms parallel with the Erie Canal, passes 
the busy little factory-villages of Macedon, Fairport, and Brigliton, crosses 
the Genesee River, and enters the city of 

Rochester. 

Hotels. — * Osburn House, $4 a day. Main St.: Brackett Hotel, Con^rrss 
Hall, Reed's, — all near the R. R. station ; Clinton House, Exchange St. ; Whit- 
comb House, corner Main and Clinton Sts. ; AVood's; Waverley. 

Amusenieuts at the Opera House, St. Paul St., near the Osburn House; 
and at Corinthian Hall. Rcadlng-Rooms at the Athenieum, W. Main St. Post- 
Office in the Arcade, W. Main St. 

Horse-Cars on Main, W. Main, Alexander, Monroe, St. Paul, Clinton, Ex- 
change, and State Sts., to the University, Mt. Hope Cemetery, St. Mary's Hospi- 
tal, Lake Avenue, and Brighton. Omnibuses from corner State and W.'Main Sts. 
to city line at Ea.st Ave. half-hourly ; to the toll-gate, 8 times daily ; from the 
Arcade to N. St. Paul St. ; from S. St. Paul St. to South Ave. Sfarjes daily to 
Greece, Penfielrl, Webster, and Ontario ; tri-weekly to Scottsville, Henrietta, and 
Rush ; semi-weekly to Honeoye Falls. 



1 72 Route 26. ROCHESTER. 

Railroads. — Rochester Div. Erie Railway, to Corning, 95 M. ; Charlotte 
Branch, N. Y. Central R. R. to Charlotte, 7 M. ; N. Y. Central R. R. to Suspen- 
sion Bridge, and to Buffalo ; also tlie Old and New Routes to Syracuse. Steamers 
from Charlotte to the ports on Lake Ontario. 

Rochester is a handsome modern city, favorably situated on both 
sides of the Genesee River at the falls, and 7 M. from Lake Ontario. It has 
62,386 inhabitants (in 1870), with an assessed valuation of $ 14,067,275 
(5 of its real valuation). There are 56 churches (8 German, 1 French, 
10 Cath., 8 Pres., 8 Meth., 7 Epis.) ; 19 schools, with 10,585 pupils ; and 
9 Catholic schools and 3 convents, with 2,770 pupils. There are 6 banks, 
5 daily papers (2 German), 7 weeklies, and 3 monthlies. The manu- 
factures are extensive and various; and Rochester claims pre-eminence 
among the cities of the world for its flour-mills and its nursery trade. 
Along the immense water-power of the Genesee Falls are placed 30 flour- 
mills, Avith an annual capacity of 1,000,000 barrels, and from this great 
product Rochester takes the name of the "Flour City." The immense 
* nurseries in this vicinity (the largest of which contains 1,000 acres) are 
■well wortliy of a visit (in the spring or fall), since here may be seen tlie 
flnest landscape gardening, with broad masses of brilliant flow^ers, orna- 
mental grasses, and skilfully trimmed shrubbery. These tracts of fra- 
grant splendor are diversifled with groves of fruit-trees (attractive in 
autumn) and hot-houses containing thousands of tropical and exotic 
flowers. Fruits, plants, and young trees to the value of $2,500,000 are 
annually shipped from these nurseries (reached by South Ave.). The 
long street which is known in different parts of its course as Main, W. 
Main, and West Ave . crosses the Genesee at right angles in the centre of 
the city, and is the chief business thoroughfare. 

The * PoAvers Biiil<1in$;s, cornpr of \V. Maiji and State Sts., are the finest used 
for commercial purposes between N. Y. and Chicago, and merit a visit. They 
form a tubular block with about 175 ft. length of fronts, and 7 stories high, with 
marble stairways and large elevators. The centre is of Ohio stone, the wings of 
]ilate glass and iron ; the partitions and floors are of brick and iron, and the 
whole mass rests on a ledge of rock. The building contains 8,000,000 brick, 
4,<'00 tons of iron. 65,000 square ft. of marble, and 1"2,000 loads of saiul (in mortar). 
There are 1,000 tenants. In the upper halls is a large collection of American 
paintings, — Views on the Hudson, Juniata, and Pleasure Bay, Haymaking Scene, 
Northcotc; Sylvan Lake, Views on the Farmington, Connecticut', Deerfield, and 
Blackwater Rivers, Long Branch, Cavuga Lake, and Mt. Tom (Mass.), Longworthy ; 
Morning on Hudson. Mt. Washington, Fishkill. and the Yo Semite Cahon, Han- 
son; Views on the Hudson, St. John's, and Alleghtnv Rivers, Lngarde; Tupper's 
Lake, Shrewsbury River, Boircrs ; Scene at Raritan, Morn at Shetucket, Bertrand; 
the Rainy Lake, Delaware River, Old Mill on Lehigli, Sunset on Huron, Martinav ; 
Blue Ridge, liake Sparta, Delaware Water Gap, Krippcndorf ; the Passaic, Cherry 
Valley, Hohenhavxer ; Twilight on Ossipee, Howard ; Scene in Michigan, Sunset 
in Rocky Mts., Albany and the Hudson, Evening on Champlain, Siedoll; Wachu- 
sett Mt., Bonninfiton; Lake George, Bnidly ; Horses, Verhoeckhoven ; several 
landscapes by Deiiakas, etc. Scores of large steel engravings are also found here. 
Near the head of the grand stairway are 2 large and valuable paintings by Huhner, 
of Diisseldorf, — the Expulsion from Eden, and the Betrayal at Gethsemane : also 
the Massacre of the Innocents. Seyendecker (Paris) ; and inferior co]nes of Cole's 
Voyage of Life. Over the building is a tower 175 ft. high (always open to visitors ; 



ROCHESTER. Route 26. 173 

small fee), whence a pleasant *Tiew is gained, embracing the whole city, the rich 
suburban towns, the nurseries of W. Brighton in the S., and in the N. the Genesee 
River, Charlotte, the broad expanse of Lake Ontario, and (on clear days) the Cana- 
dian coast beyond. One of the chief stations of the Weather Bureau of the U. S. 
War Dep"t is located in this building. 

Near the Powers Buildings is the Arcade, and nearly opposite is the 
Court House of Monroe County, with a tall Ionic portico. Back of this is 
the new City Hall, a plain, dignified, and commodious stone building ; 
and the ornate and costly High School is in the same vicinity. The 
Athenccum is at present in the Court House, and has a library of over 
20,000 volumes. The University of Rochester has ncAV stone buildings 
fronting across a verdant campus on University Ave. The Ward Cal)inet 
is said to contain the best geological collections in the U. S. The main 
hall is a massive sandstone building for lecture-halls ; near which a 
costly Library hall lias been erected (12,000 volumes in library). The 
University was founded by the Baptists in 1846, and has 8 professorships^ 
and about 150 students. The Rochester Theological Seminary (Baptist) 
has about 70 students, Avith a rich library (15,000 volumes), including 
4,600 volumes which formed the library of Neander, the German church- 
historian. Among the professors are Drs. A. H. Strong, Buckland, and 
Schaffer. On West Ave. is St. Mari/s Hospital, an imposing stone 
building 250 ft. long, with accommodations for 800 patients (under the 
care of the Sisters of Charity). The 3 Catholic asylums shelter 260 
orphans ; and the Sisters of Notre Dame teach 1,300 cliildren. The 
City Hospital (West Ave. ; 125 patients) and the Penitentiary (S. of the 
city ; 250 inmates) have spacious buildings. On a hill 1 M. N. of the 
centre of the city and near the river is the Western House of Refuge, 
Avith extensive builduigs situated on a farm of 42 acres, enclosed by high 
walls and stockades. It accommodates 500 boys, and was founded by the 
State in 1849 for the reformation of youthful criminals. The Erie Canal, 
after passing the Irondequoit Valley on lofty embankments, enters 
Rochester and crosses the Genesee River on an aqueduct of cut stone 
which cost $ 600,000. It then meets the Genesee Valley Canal, which 
runs S. W. 125 M. (with branches) to Pennsylvania, ascending 978 ft, by 
97 locks, and built at a cost of nearly $ 8,000,000. 

The suburban streets of Rochester are adorned with pleasant villas and 
gardens, and help to confirm the local belief that this is the most beautiful 
city in N. Y, State. Near the S. line (horse-cars to the gate) is * Mount 
Hope Cemetery, whose groves and hills and shady promenades form a 
resort of famed attractiveness. The ornamental gateway opens upon a 
broad circular lawn, near which is the chapel. On a hill to the 1, is the 
Observatory tower, commanding the finest * view in this vicinity. The 
Penitentiary and Insane Asylum are seen near at hand, with the elegant 
mansion of the late Judge Warner; wliile the eye follows the Genesee 



174 Route 26. ROCHESTER. 

River from the blue hills far in the S. to the broad sheet of Lake Ontario 
in the N. Rochester and its S. and W. suburbs are also overlooked. The 
cemetery contains 217 acres, and 22,226 burials have taken place here. 
The great Ellwanger k Bany nursery is close by (on the N. E.). 

The Genesee Falls are within the city, and are interesting in an indus- 
trial point of view. The river falls 22(3 ft. in 3 M., and has 3 cataracts. 
The upper fall is 96 ft. high, and is best seen by descending the r. bank 
below and walking up the ledge by the water-side. Much of its water is 
taken away in races for the use of the mills on the 1. bank, and the Falls 
present a fine appearance only at higli water. Over these cliffs of Niagara 
limestone, Sam Patch, the daring gymnast, made his fatal leap into the 
waters below. From this point the river flows through a deep gorge 
bordered by clififs (and spanned by the Vincent Place Bridge, a triumph 
of engineering) to tlie middle falls, 1^ M. below. This cataract is best 
seen from the 1. bank, and is reached by the horse-cars on State St. and 
Lake Ave. The middle fall is 25 ft. high ; and a short distance below are 
the lower falls, wliere the river descends over a ledge of Medina sandstone 
84 feet high. The lower falls are not improved, being in a deep ravine, 
and are much more picturesque than those above. The geological theory 
is that the river once fell over cliffs higher than those of Niagara; but by 
attrition carried on through ages on strata of unequal resisting powers, it 
has worn its way back through the long Rochester gorge, and fonned a 
succession of smaller cascades. The immense water-power of the upper 
falls gives Rochester its importance as a manufacturing city. In 1872 
there were $ 60,000,000 worth of merchandise exported from Rochester, 
and $20,000,000 worth of manufactured goods were made. It is said 
that more of the citizens here own their homes than is the case in any 
other American city of equal size. 

The first settler came to this site in 1790, but there was no village for many 
years. In 1812 the city was laid out and founded hy Nathaniel Rochester ; and 
its gi-owth began after the close of the War of 1812, and the completion of the 
Erie Canal. Of the present population (62,386) 7,730 are Germans, 6,078 Irish, 
2,658 Canadians, 2,530 English, 510 Hollanders, 475 French, 440 Swiss, 428 Scotch, 
71 Poles, 673 from Massachusetts, and 500 from Connecticut. 

Charlotte (pronounced Sha-loW) is the port of Rochester, and is situated 
on Lake Ontario, at the mouth of the Genesee. It is 7 M. from the city, 
and is reached by a branch R. R., or by steamer (in summer; 25c. ) down 
the river, — a pleasant excursion. The lake-steamers touch here; and 
the village has 2 elevators and a blast-furnace. Along the W. shore are 
the long bayous of Greece, and on the E. is the deep and narrow Ironde- 
quoit Bay. Daily steamers cross Lake Ontario (70 M. ) to Toronto (see 
Route 28). The beach extending W. from Charlotte is much visited in 
summer, and has a large hotel and numerous cottages. 



BATAVIA. Route 26. 1 75 

Rochester to Buffalo. 
The train passes out to the W,, and nms by the small village stations 
of Chili, Chiirchville, Bergen, and BjTon. 32 M. from Rochester it 
reaches Batavia {St. James Hotel), the capital of Genesee County, a 
rich farming district which originally belonged to Massachusetts, and 
afterwards passed into the possession of Robert Morris and the Holland 
Land Co. The Company opened roads, and disposed of their lands on 
liberal terms, xintil the county became well populated and prosperous. 
Batavia was the central seat of the Holland Company, and was founded 
in 1800. It has a lucrative trade with the rich "Genesee Country" which 
surrounds it, and has 3,890 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 3 banks, 3 news- 
papers, 2 Catholic asylums, and 2 seminaries. The Court House is a large 
stone building, and the State has an arsenal here. The X. Y. Institution 
for the Blind is h M. N. of the village, and has new and spacious build- 
ings wliich were erected at a cost of § 244,000. A railroad runs S. from 
Batavia to Attica. 

In 182(3, William Morgan of Batavia, having been initiatfid into the orrler of 
Freemasons, began the preparation of a book disclosing the secrets thereof. 
After several attempts at intimidation had failed, Morgan was arrested on a 
trumped-up suit, and was carried by stiige to Canandaigua, and there imprisoned. 
On his release, as he left the jail, he was seized, gagged, and hurried away in a 
close carriage. He was nevcrtimre seen or heanl of by his family and people, 
and it was supposed that the Masons put him to death because of' his treacherj' 
to the order. An intense c.Kcitement spread over the Republic, and antimasonic 
societies were formed on every side, with the avowed purjiose of crushing the 
order. The struggle lasted for 6 years, and became a great national question ; 
but though thousands seceded from the fraternity, it suffered no permanent 
check. The printing-office was guanled by the BaUivians with artillery, and in 
due time the book of the exi)osure appeared. 

After leaving Batavia the train passes the stations of Crafts and Pem- 
broke. It then traverses Erie County, and beyond the stations of Alden, 
"Wende, Town Line, Lancaster, and Forks, it enters the city of BufEalo 
(see Route 33, adjinem). 

Rocliester to Niagara Falls {77 M.). 
Leaving the Rochester station the train runs W. across the city, passes 
the extensive freight-depot, crosses the Erie Canal, and traverses the fruit- 
ful plains of Gates. The chief stations are ; — Spencerport (amid 
wheat-lands), Adams Basin (a canal-village), and Brockport. Tlie latter 
village has 3,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of a State Normal School, a 
fine building of red Medina sandstone, 300 ft. long and 3-4 stories high, 
in a park of 6 acres. Crossing the ravine of Sandy Creek, the train 
reaches HoUey, near which are several salt springs. Albion (Han~ington 
House) is the capital of Orleans County, and has 3,322 inhabitants, 6 
churches, 2 weekly papers, 2 banks, and 3 large academies. The Court 
House has a dome 110 ft. high, and the jail is solidly built of Medina 



176 Route 26. LOCKrOKT. 

sandstone. A costly monument is to be erected in this village in memory 
of the soldiers of Orleans who fell in the Secession War. The Tonawanda 
Swamp begins about 5 M, S. of Albion ; and the lake ridge, about 3 M. 
N., is 165 ft. above the lake, and marks its ancient shore-line. It is many 
leagues in length, and is 100 - 300 ft. wide at the top, along which runs 
the old highway and the route of the projected Lake Ontario Shore R. R. 
Stations, Knowlesville, and Medina (3,000 inhabitants), where there are 
extensive quarries of dark red sandstone, which is used for building and 
flagging. Beyond Shelby Centre, and 3-4 M. S. W. of Medina, is a great 
ancient fortress, with ditches and embankments surrounding 3 acres of 
land. Trees 400 years old grow upon the ramparts, and many gigantic 
human skeletons, with weapons and eartlienware, have been found piled 
in trenches near the fort, seeming to indicate a great battle in prehistoric 
America. 

The Oak Orchard Acid Sprinrjs are 6M. S. of Medina. There are 9 springs of 
different properties within a circuit of SOO ft., and the water is exported in large 
quantities for medicinal uses. They issue from singular mounds 3-4 ft. high, 
and the chief chemical constituents are the sulphates of lime, alumina, and mag- 
nesia, and inoto-sulpliate of iron. This water is remarlcable as containing in each 
gallon 83 grains of free sulphuric acid, and nnist be diluted when taken internally. 
It is very efficacious in curing skin diseases and ulcers. There is a similar spring 
in Persia, and there are 2 in New Granada. Batavia is 12 M. S. E. of the Springs. 

The Tonawanda Reservation is about 6 M. S. of the Springs, and includes 70 
square M. Here dwells the remnant of the Tonawanda tribe of Indians, number- 
ing about 500 souls, and forming an independent and untaxed community. 

Passing the stations of Middleport and Gasport, the train reaches 
Lockport (Jndson House), a city of nearly 15,000 inhabitants, with 3 
daily papers, 3 banks, and 14 churches. At this point the Erie Canal 
leaves the lake ridge or ancient beach from the Erie Level to the Genesee 
Level, descending 66 ft. by 10 double locks of heavy masonry. These 
locks give name to the city, and may be seen from the train. The canal 
also passes throiigh a long cut in the limestone ridge, and furnishes a large 
surplus of water, giving an hydraulic power along whose channel are nu- 
merous factories and flour-mills. There is a rich agricultural district about 
Lockport, and the limestone quarries in the vicinity employ large forces. 
The railroad crosses the canal on a high bridge, and then the canal di- 
verges to the S. W., and is seen no more. A branch R. R. runs S. W. 
from Lockport to Buff"alo in 26 M. After leaving Lockport the train on 
the main line runs W. 19 M., crossing the towns of Cambria and Niagara, 
and stopping at Suspension Bridge. Niagara Falls are seen in the dis- 
tance (1.), and may be reached (in 2 M.) by connecting branch R. Rs. on 
either side of the river, or by carriage. 




A T B 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

Cave of the Winds. .. , . . . .^ B. 6. 

Biddies Slairs. . B. 6. 

Prospect Tower. . . . By. 

Battle Ground. A. 5. 

Whirlpool C I. 

Ji.R. Suspension Bridge Ct). 2, 3. 

Ne-M . " " e. 5. 

Prospect Park C. 6. 

Goat Istatid., . ■ .^. . . C. 6. 

Bath " ,...~.^ Q.b. 

Luna ' " .ji .,,9^ B. 6. 

Grast - -«»-..- D. 7. 

^0"^ " -,_... B. 7 

Niagara-Falls R.k. Station. . . ,, » C. 6 

Cli/ton - - .„ B. 5. 

N. y. Central " - ... I). 3 

Great Western " " .... C j 

Cataract House. • . ..,, ,. C. 6 

International House .... ,,^^ ... C6 

Sp.ncer House. (. 6 

Cli/ton House. : . .., B. 5 

Man teazle House. ....,._.., Di. 

Aficseuin ,f^ .-.....,. B. 6. 

Vutoria Hall 



NIAGARA FALLS. Routed?. 177 



27. Niagara Falls. 

Hotels. — * Cataract House, 600 guests, $4.50 a day (closes late in Oct.); 
♦International Hotel, $4.50 a day. These hotels are of the hrst class, and are 
alongside each other, close to the rapids. Opposite the R. R. station is the 
Spencer House, 300 guests, $ 8.50 a day (open all the year). The Park Place Hotel 
(S 3-3.50 a day) is on the main street of the village. There are several smaller 
and less expensive hotels. On the Canadian side —* Clifton House, facing the 
Falls and giving the best view {.^ 3.50 a day, — U. iS. money) ; Victoria Hall Hotel, 
on the heights over the Clifton, .$2-3 a day. The village inns at Urumiaondville 
(1 M. from the Falls) charge $7-10 a week. At Suspension Bridge, 2 M. from 
tlie Falls, is tlie Monteagle Hotel, a fine stone building accommodaLing 200 guests ; 
$2.50-3 a day, $ 12- 15 a week. There are also several inns at tSusp. Bridge and 
in the Canadian village of Clifton. 

Kailroads. — The N. Y. Central to New York in 447 M. (Route 20) ; the Erie, 
to New York in 442 M. (Route 33) ; the Great Western, to Detroit (230 M.) and 
Chicago (514 M.); the Erie and Ontario, to Queenston and Niagara (12 M.), also 
to Chippewa and Fort Erie (Buffalo). To Buffalo by the Erie or the N. Y. Central 
(22-20 M.) ; to Lewiston, by the N. Y. Central, 8 M. ; to Philadelphia, 438 M., 
by the Erie, Lehigh Valley and N. Penn. R. Rs. To Boston, 506 M., by the N. Y. 
Central and the Boston and Albany R. Rs. To Baltimore, 421 M. ; to Washington, 
401 ; to Richmond, 577 ; to Cincinnati, 450 ; to St. Louis, 726 ; to Memphis, 937 ; 
to New Orleans, 1,315 ; to Omaha, 1,005 ; to San Francisco, 2,912. 

Carriages. — The liackmen of Niagara have been a source of continual annoy- 
ance to visitors by their importunity and extortion. They may eiisily be shaken 
off by a prompt and firm refusal ; and gentlemen who wish to lide with them 
should make an explicit verbal contract before starting, —in which the places to 
be visited, the time to be taken, and the compensation, sliould be distinctly 
understood by both parties. There is then but little danger of trouble. The 
tolls on the bridges and roads are paid by the tourist. No reliance should be 
placed on the hackman's statement of distances. The tariff for carriages is $ 2 an 
hour, but special contracts may be made at lower rates for visiting specified points. 
These rates vary with the men, the season, and the size of the party. A buggy 
and driver may be hired for $ 5 a day. The trip on the Canadian side includes the 
Table Rock, the Burning Spring, Lundy's Lane, the lower Susi)ension Bridge, and 
the Whirlpool (and sometimes Brock's mcmument on Queenston Heights). There 
is but little need of a carriage on the American shore unless &usp. B idge is 
visited, — Goat Island and Prospect Park being more easily and pleasantly trav- 
erseii on foot. A carriage and si)au may be hired (outside the hotels) for $ 10 a 
day to carry 4-5 persons to all the points of interest on both shores, — including 
the Suspension Bridge and Queenston Heiglits. Tolls and entrance-fees are not 
included in this price. Guides may be obtained in the village, but there is no 
fixed tariff. 

Sliops for the sale of bead-work, baskets, fans, i)hotographs, minerals, spar 
and agate jewelry, etc., abound in various parts of the village. Many of these 
articles are manufactured by the Tuscarora Indians, who live on a reservation 7 
M. distant. Indian squaws are seen at different points selling these wares, which 
are generally pretty and inexpensive. 

The extortions at Niagara have become world-famed, and are much exaggerated. 
It is true that the tourist is called upon to pay at nearly every step in the vicinity 
of the Falls (on the American side), but then he is continually using facilities 
and improvements which have ct)st large amounts of money and are only remu- 
nerative for a few months in the year. The Fails and their surroundings are fre- 
quently "done " by parties in a single day ; and as many rare and curious objects 
are seen as would be found in weeks of ordinary travel. The payment must be in 
some degree commensurate. Tourists who remain several days or Aveeks at Ni- 
agara can avail themselves of season-tickets to various points at low rates, and 
their expenses need be no greater than they would be at New York or Newport. 
Much of the extra expense at Niagara is due to the fact tliat the majority of tour- 
ists here indulge in luxuries which are neither necessary or customary. Nowhere 
are carriages so needless as here, since the distances are short and the roads are 
unmistakable. A gentleman travelling en gargon may spend 2 days here for less 

S* T 



178 Route 27. NIAGARA FALLS. 

than $ 10, by avoiding some of tlie less interesting (yet always expensive) locali- 
ties ; by being satisKeJ witli comfoiLible, instead of luxurious, hotel-acconunoda- 
tions ; and by walking, as lie wuuld at home. Arriving at tlie Falls in the morn- 
ing, the day should be devoted to the American si<le and principally to Goat 
[sland (good dining-saloon in the village). Crossing to the Canadian shore at 
evening, the second day should l)e given to that side. The chief points of inter- 
est are Prospect Park (20c.), Goat Island (50c.), the New yuspensiou Bridge (ioc.) 
with the view from its Canadian tower (25c.), and the Burning yi>ring (40c.). The 
great vice of modern travel, to wit, the visiting of places in order to soy that they 
nave been visited by the tourist, is very prevalent at Niagara ; and many (perhaps 
most) of those who go there come away with a vague idea of a little natural 
scenery, confusedly mingled with swarms of vociferous hackmen, and obscured 
by a large expense-roll. Should he devote a week or more to the careful and rev- 
erent study of this paramount wonder of the world, the summer-voyager would 
carry away a fadeless memory of sublimity, joining in the enthusiasm of two of 
the foremost men (in their respective lields of honor) of the Anglo-American race. 

" You may stand by the water just where it falls otf, and if your head does not 
swim you may proceed to the brink of Tal)le Rock, and look down into the gulf 
beneath- This is all froth and foam and spray ; as you stand here it looks as if 
all the water of the globe was collected round this circle, and pouring down here 
into the centre of the earth. As we stood to-day at noon, on the projecting point 
at Table Rock, we looked over into the abyss, and far beneath our feet, arched 
over this tremendous aggregate of water, we saw a perfect and radiant rainbow. 
This ornament of heaven does not seem out of place in being half-way up the sheet 
of the glorious cataract ; it looked as if the skies themselves paid homage to tliis 

stupendous work of nature By our side, down comes this world of green 

and white waters, and pours into the invisible abyss. A steady, unvarying, low- 
toned roar thunders incessantly ujion our ears ; as we look up we think some 
sudden disaster has opened tlie seas, and that all their floods are coming down 
upon us at once ; but we soon recollect that what we see is not a sudden or vio- 
lent exhibition, but the permanent and uniform character of the object wliich we 
contemplate. There the grand spectacle has stood for centuries — from the crea- 
tion, as far as we know, without change. From the beginning it has shaken as it 
now does the earth and the air, and its unvar3ing thunder existed- before there 
were human ears to hear it." (Daniel Webster.) 

"It was not until I came on Table Rock, and looked — Great Heaven — on 
what a fall of bright green water I — that it came upon me in its full might and 
majesty. Then, when I felt how near to my Creator I was standing, the first 
ettect, and the enduring one — instant and lasting — of the tremendous spectacle 
was Peace. Peace of Mind — Tranquillity — calm recollections of the Dead : 
Great Thoughts of Eternal Rest and Hai)iuness — nothing of Gloom or Terror. 
Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart, an Image of Beauty to remain there 

changeless and indelible until its pulses cease to beat fore\'er I think in 

every quiet season now, still do those waters roll and leap, and roar and tumble 
all day long ; still are the rainbows spanning them a hundred feet below. Still, 
when the sun is on them, do they shine and glow like molten gold. Still, when 
the day is gloomy, do they fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the front 
of a great chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. But always 
does the mighty stream seem to die as it comes down, and always from the un- 
fathomable gulf rises that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never 
laid, which has haunted this place with the same dread solemnity since darkness 
brooded on the deep, and that first flood before the deluge — Light — came rush- 
ing on creation at the Word of God." (Dickens.) 

Niagara Falls are situated on the Niagara River, 22| M. from Lake 
Erie, and 13J M. from Lake Ontario. The river is the outlet of Lakes 
Winnipeg, Winnebago, Superior, Michigan, Huron, St. Clair, and Erie, 
and drains over L50,000 square M. of country. The geological theory is 
that at some remote period the waters of Lake Erie covered a vastly 
greater extent than at present, and were bounded on the E. by the 
heights at Queenston and Lewiston. By the combined action of water. 



NIAGARA FALLS. Routed. 179 

frost, and ice, a channel was cut deeply througli tliis barrier, and a fall 
(or succession of falls) with a height of over 300 ft. was formed. Since 
that period the fall has receded 7 M., leaving the immense gorge between 
Niagara and Qiieenston. The process of recession is still going on slowly 
in the same manner. The pounding of the waters disintegrates the soft 
shale near the bed of the river, until the limestone strata above, being de- 
prived of support, break into fragments and fall. Within 30 years the Ameri- 
can Fall has acquired a slight curve, and the Horse-Shoe Fall has changed its 
outline considerably. The fall plmiged for ages over the present site of 
the Whirlpool, because the upper limestone was there upheld by a hard 
sandstone stratum, which resisted disintegration. Although the soft 
shales are now being cut away, and the luidermined limestone occasionally 
falls, the retrocession is much slower than formerly, since the river, whicli 
was but 1,000 ft. wide in the gorge, has now a sweep of over 4,000 ft. 
Apprehensions have been expressed lest in some future epoch the river 
shall pound its way back to Lake Erie, upon which a drainage of that 
sea would ensue; but the character of the strata above the Falls and the 
increasing width of the river render such an event impossible. Lyell 
says that 90,000,000,000 cubic ft. of water passes over every hour ; 
Dwight holds that 100^000,000 tons fall every hour; and another au- 
thority claims that the hourly flow is 211,836,853 barrels. There is an 
occasional rise in tlie waters during W. winds on Lake Erie; and 1 ft. of 
rise on the Falls raises the river below 17^ ft. 2i M. above tlie Falls the 
river is 3 M. wide, while at the Whirlpool it is narrowed to 400 ft. 

Winter at Niagara brings rare beauties of icy trees and shrubbery, lofty ice- 
cones sometimes nearly as high as the Falls, and vast iincles pendent from the 
cliffs. There was considerable sleighing on the American Rapids in 1856, and an 
ice bridge covered the river from the Suspension Bridge to the American Falls. 
At the break-up a dam formed at the mouth of the river, and set the water and 
ice back to a height of 60 ft. In 1866 tlie Whirlpool was flooded by a gorge of ice 
below until it became smooth and level. In March, 1848, a W. wind on Lake 
Erie piled up the ice at the E. end of the lake, making an immense dam at the 
inlet of the Niagara. The river water soon ran off, leaving but feeble brooks in 
the old channel, and a few light bands of water over the cliffs. Teams were 
driven far out over the site - of the rapids, and the roar of the Falls died away. 
The next day the river broke away the barrier, and swept over its old course with 
tenfold lury. 

* Goat Island (entrance, 50c. ; season-ticket, $1) is 5 min. walk from 
the R, R. station, and is reached by an iron carriage-bridge 360 ft. long, 
resting on iron-clad and stone-ballasted oaken crilis. The bridge was 
built in 1856, on the site of a wooden structure of 1818, and during its 
construction a workman fell into the stream and was swept to the islet 
below, whence he was rescued by an heroic man in a skiff. There is a fine 
view from this bridge of the white and turbulent Rapids, which fall 51 ft. 
in a course of f M., and attain a velocity of 30 M. an hour, — " it seems 
like a battle-charge of tempestuous waves, animated and infuriated against 
the sky." Tlie road first crosses Bath Island (2 acres), where some of 



180 Routed. NIAGARA FALLS. 

the Niagara water-power is utilized for the Tribune Paper Mills. Goat 
Island was rarely visited by the Indians, but Israel Putnam went on it in 
1755, and a party of French officers reached it by boats, in 1765. In an 
early patent it is said to cover 250 acres, but its present extent is about 60 
acres, and it is being slowly worn away. In 1779 a goat was put upon its 
shores (then partly cleared), and his name still clings to the place, althougli 
the Government boundary maps named it Iris Island. The sequestered 
groves of this island are the goal of "that great circle of newly wedded 
bliss, which, involving the whole land during the season of bridal tours, 
may be said to show richest and fairest at Niagara, like the costly jewel of 
a precious ring." (See Howells's "Their Wedding Journey.") The path 
to the r. from the bridge leads (in 5 min.) to the foot of the island and 
the verge of the Centre Fall, whence there is a foot-bridge to Luna 
Island, a rocky islet between the Central and American Falls. While a 
party was on this island (in 1848), a young girl fell into the stream, and 
a gentleman sprang forward to save her. They both passed over the 
Falls, and their bodies were afterwards found below, terribly mutilated. 
From Luna Island the * American Fall stretches away for 1,200 ft., \vith 
a perpendicular plunge of 161 ft., and the visitor can stand within a span 
of its crest. Fine lunar bows are seen here on nights when the moon is 
full. A short distance beyond is a liuilding where guides and water-proof 
suits (.S 1.50) are furnished for visitors to the * Cave of tlie Winds. The 
cliff is descended bj'^ a long spiral stairway, and a path leads from the foot 
to the cave, a wide and lofty recess which has been formed by the disin- 
tegration of the shaly rocks. It is roofed by the hard limestone stratum, 
and its W. side is formed by the blue waters of the massive Centre Fall. 
( It is prudent for visitors to take off their collars and cuffs before entering 
this booming and brumal chasm. ) From the outside of the cave double 
and triple concentric circular rainbows may be seen on a bright aftenioon. 
A spray-swept plank-walk has Ijeen built out on the rocks near the foot 
of the fall. On the under-cliff path a gentleman was killed (in 1829) by a 
heavy rock falling upon him. From this end of the island Sam Patch 
leaped from a ladder 96 ft. high, feet-foremost, into the river, twice suc- 
cessively, and came out unhai-med (1829). Fi'om the foot of the stairway 
a path diverges to the 1. , along which Prof. Tyndall and a guide advanced 
in 1873, wading waist-deep torrents, and passing nearly to the centre of 
the Horse-Shoe Fall. The road which continues along the top of the cliff 
soon reaches a bridge which leads to the islet where Terrapin Tower 
formerly stood (it was blown up in 1873). A visitor once fell from this 
bridge and was carried to a rock on the verge of the Falls, whence he was 
rescued speechless by means of ropes. The * * view of the Horse-Shoe 
Fall from this islet is one of the grandest about Niagara. The width of 
this Fall is nearly 2,400 ft., with a height of 158 ft. (6 ft. less than the 



NIAGARA FALLS. Roxite^. 181 

American Fall). Near its centre is the smooth dark green current which 
marks the deepest water of the Falls, — over 20 ft. 

The term " Canadian Fall " is often applied to the waters W. of Goat Island, 
but it is inexact, since the national boundary passes down the centre of the Horse- 
Shoe, leaving fully half of the W. Falls in the domain of the Republic. The out- 
line of this Fall has been so changed that the horseshoe curve is less apparent 
than formerly. In recent yeard large sections of the adjacent cliffs of Goat Island 
have fallen into the abyss below, and Gull Island, near the curve of the Falls, has 
been washed away. In 1827 the condemned ship Michigan was sent over the 
Horse-Shoe Falls' with a cargo of animals, one of which, a sagacious bear, de- 
serted the ship in the midst of the rapids, and swam ashore. In 1S41 the old 
frigate Detroit (of Perry's fleet) was set adrift toward the Falls, but lodged among 
the rocks in the rapids, and was cut to pieces by the ice the next winter. Hun- 
dreds of wild ducks are carried over eveiy year, and are picked up dead on the 
river below. Centuries ago the Indians were accustomed to spend some weeks of 
the autumn here, for the game which they could find. In 1810 a salt-boat sunk 
off Chippewa, and :J of the crew were carried over the Falls ; in 1821, a scow and 
2 men went over ; in 1825, 5 more, 3 of Avhom were in canoes ; in 1841, a sand- 
scow and 2 men, and 2 snuigglers ; in 1847, a young boy, who tried to row across 
above; in 1848, two children were playing in a skitf, when it got loose, — the 
mother, wading out, saved one, but the other was swept over, grasjting the boat 
on each side. In 1871. 3 strangers tried to row across far above, but the current 
drew them in, and carried them down ; and in 1873. a newly married couple, while 
rowing about near Chippewa, were drawn into the central current, and passed 
over the Falls in each other's arms. Many other disasteis have occurred above 
and below the Falls, as if to verify the Indian tradition that Niagara demands 2 
victims yearly. Two bull-terrier dogs have made the plunge over the American 
Falls without harm. One of them lived all winter on a dead cow which it found 
on the rocks below ; and the other trotteil up the ferry-stairs, veiy much aston- 
ished and grieved, within an hour from the time when he was thrown from Goat 
Island Bridge. 

The * Three Sisters are rugged and romantic islets S. W. of Goat 
Island, and are reached by .3 pretty .suspension bridges connected witli the 
road leading from Terrapin Bridge. They afford the best * view of the 
Rapids at their widest, deepest, and most tumultuous part, where the 
base of their heaviest wliirl is wreathed with mist. A light bridge leads 
to another picturesque islet near the third Sister. "The Three Sisters are 
mere fragments of wilderness, clumps of vine-tangled woods, planted upon 
masses of rock ; but they are parts of the fascination of Niagara which no 
one resists." 

Between Moss (the first Sister) and Goat Island is the Hermit's Cascade, where 
Francis Abbott, the Hermit of Niagara, was wont to bathe. He was a young 
Englishman, who had travelled over nuich of Euroiie and Asia, and had alter- 
nateil protracted theological studies with metropolitan dissipation until a menial 
unsettling ensued. He (tame here in 1839. and lived on Goat Island for 2 years, 
with no companions but a dog and cat, flute, violin, and books. He dres.sed in a 
long robe, and wrote much (in Latin). Removing to Point View, near the Amer- 
ican Fall, in 1841, he was soon afterward drowned while bathing. 

From the head of Goat Island, 1 M. up river, is seen the white house which 
stands on the site of Fort Schlosser, near which, at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, 
Father Hennepin and La Salle spent the winter and spring of 1678 - 79. They 
built here a 60-ton vessel, the Griffin, and sailed up the great lakes to Green Bay 
(Wisconsin). Fort du Portage was afterward erected at Schlosser, and was taken 
by the English in 1759, after a siege, in which the French garrison destroyed their 
armed store-ships in Burnt Ship Bay. On Navy Island (near Schlosser) the Cana- 
dian insurgents of 1837 had their head-quarters, and communicated with the 



182 Routed. NIAGARA FALLS. 

American shore by the steamer Caroline. A British force l)oar(letl the Caroline 
by night, and after a sliort struggle beat off the crew. Tlie vessel was then set on 
lire, and drifted down, blazing througli the darkness, to the cascades below Goat 
Island, where she went to pieces (some say that she plunged over the Falls in a 
mass of flame). Col. Allan McNab, who ordered this attack, was soon aftenvai-ds 
knighted. Grand Island is above Navy Island, and is V2 M. long and 2 - 7 M. wide 
(containing 17,240 acres). In 1S20 Mordccai M. Noah endeavored to make this 
island a home for the scattered Hebrews throughout the world. After much 
legislation and wide correspondence with his compatriots, he put up a monument 
on the island, inscribed, "Ararat, a city of refuge for the Jews." etc. But the 
European Rabbins denounced the movement, and the project was abandoned. 

* Prospect Park (entrance, 20c.; season ticket, 50c,; entrance and 
ferriage over and back, 50c.) is on the mainland, by the side of the 
American FalL Its chief point of interest is a i>latform, inwalled by a 
low parapet, on the very verge of the Fall, vvlience the deep abyss and 
the broad curve of the waters may be observed in security. A railway 
360 ft. long, and inclined at an angle of 33", leads from the Park to the 
river below. The cars are dra^vn by an endless cable, which is worked 
by water-power. Paths lead from the base of the cliff into the sjiray 
toward the Falls; also to Point View, and to 2 small caverns nearly 1 M. 
distant (the patli is rugged and dangerous). Neai- the foot of the railway 
the tourist enters a large rowboat, which is tossed about as if on a stormy 
sea by the tumultuo\is waters. The * view of the Falls from mid-stream 
(or ^ of the way across) is awe-inspiring, and gives the full idea of their 
gi-eat height, which is not obtained from the banks above. This ferry 
was established in 1825, and no accident has ever occurred on it. From 
1854 to 1867 the steamer Maid of the Mist plied between the Suspension 
Bridge and the close proximity of the Falls. Tlie passage of the river 
takes 10 min., and the depth of the water on the line of transit is 180 ft. 
A road ^ M. long leads from the landing to the top of the clift", near tlie 
Clifton House (carriages are in waiting). 

Tl^ *New Suspension Bridge (25c. for pedestrians) is 6-800 ft. be- 
low the Falls, of which it gives a grand panoramic * view " from the begin- 
ning of the American Fall to the farthest limit of the Horse-Shoe, with 
all the awful pomp of the Rapids, the solemn darkness of the wooded 
islands, the mystery of the vaporoiis gulf, the indomitable wildness of the 

shores, as far as the eye can reach up or down tlie fatal stream 

Of all tlie bridges made with hands it seems the lightest, most ethereal ; 
it is ideally graceful, and droops from its slight towers like a garland." 
That '^apotheosis of industry," the white and slender fall called the 
Bridal Veil, is seen on the American .shore, and is the end of " a poor 
but respectable mill-race which has devoted itself strictly to business, and 
has turned mill-wheels instead of fooling around water-lilies. It can 
afford that ultimate finery." The bridge was finished in 1869, at a cost 
of $ 175,000, and is the longest suspension bridge in the world, being 1,190 



THE BURNING SPRING. Route 27. 183 

ft. from cliff to cliff, and 1,268 ft. from tower to toAver. 1,240 ft. of 
platform is sustained 190 ft. above the river by 2 cables, each of which 
is 7 inches in diameter, and is composed of 7 ropes, each containing 133 
wires. The American tower (10c. for the ascent) is 100 ft. high; and the 
Canadian tower (ascended by an elevator; 25c.) is 105 ft. high, and com- 
mands a noble * view of the Falls and the great ravine. The terminus is 
near the Clifton House, a spacious first-class hotel which faces the entire 
range of the Falls. Passing from the Clifton House toward the Falls, a 
continuous and majestic prospect is afforded. The Musetiin (.50c.) is soon 
approached. It contains collections of coins, minerals, Egyptian relics 
and mummies, casts from Ninevite sculptures, a line of grotesque wax 
figures, and an extensive aiTay of stuffed birds and animals arranged in a 
forest-scene. There is a pleasant prospect from the upper balconies, ami 
in the hall below is a large salesroom for bijouterie characteristic of 
Niagara. Live buffaloes are kept in the yard. Oil-cloth suits and guides 
are furnished here (.$1) for the passage under the Horse-Shoe Fall. When 
apparelled in these damp and clammy suits, ladies look like squaws, and 
gentlemen resemble Cape Ann fishermen in a heavy gale. Termination 
Rock is reached near the edge of the Fall, and visitors, blinded by the 
spray, and deafened by the roaring of the waters, will be satisfied to 
return speedily. Tourists without guides and appropriate clothing should 
not venture near the Fall. Another house beyond the Museum also 
furnishes conveniences for going under. 300 ft. above the Museum Is 
Table Rock, from which is given the grandest front * * view of the entii'e 
Falls ; and time should be unlimited at this point. 

Some caution Is necessary here. A young lady once fell over, and was fatally 
bruised on the rocks, 115 ft. below. In 1850 a section of this ledge, 200 x 60 ft., 
and 100 ft. thick, broke away, and plunged into the chasm below with a tremen- 
dous roar. An omnibus which was standing upon it went daym. also, and was 
shi\'ered to atoms, the driver barely escaping by the warning of the splitting 
rocks. Pieces of this rock fall occasionally during the winter and spring, render- 
ing somewhat perilous the narrow shelf below which leads to the Gotliic arch 
under the Horee-Shoe Fall. The remaining part of Table Rock is thought to be 
destined to remain firm, as there is but little overhang ; although a crack 125 ft. 
long and 60 ft. deep was left when the great crash took place. 

The * Burning Spring is 2 M. above Table Rock, and should be ap- 
proached by the river-road, which affords a fine view of the Great Ox- 
Bow Rapids and the broad river above. On Long Lsland, near the bend 
of the Falls, is a tower (50c.) from whicli the Rapids may be seen to good 
advantage, and also the E. line of the Horse-Shoe. Just above is the fine 
mansion and park formerly owned by Mr. Street, a retired bachelor and 
fervid lover of Nature, who won the ill-will of the inhabitants of this 
section and the gratitude of all tourists by refusing to allow mills to be 
erected on his wide riverward domains. The Burning Spring (40c. ad- 
mission) is highly cliarged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which bums 



184 Routed. THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 

with an intermittent pale blue flame when ignited. The water is in a 
state of ebiillition, and the spring-house is kept darkened to increase the 
effect. A tub with a long iron pipe through the bottom is inverted over 
the waterj and a constant stream of gas passes through it, affording a jet 
of flame over 3 ft. high. The spring is at the water's edge, and overlooks 
the white rapids to Goat Island ; while nearer at hand is Cynthia Island, 
joined to the Street domain by a pretty footbridge. It is best to return 
to the Falls by the parallel road on the heights, by the Loretto Convent, 
from which good views are gained, including the best overview of the 
Horse-Shoe. "By all odds, too, the most tremendous view of the Falls is 
afforded by tlie point on this drive whence you look down upon the 
Horse-Shoe, and behold its three massive walls of sea rounding and 
sweeping into the gidf together, the color gone, and the smooth brink 
showing black and ridgy." A road diverging to the 1., near the Falls, leads 
to the hamlet of Dricmmondville (l^ M. from Table Rock), on whose 
heights is a tower which overlooks the battle-field of Lundy's Lane and 
a great extent of country, from Brock's monument on Queenston Heights 
to Buffalo and Lake Erie. The battle-field of Chippewa is 2 M. S. of the 
Burning Spring, and just beyond the hamlet of Chippewa (see page 186). 
The * Suspension Bridge which connects Suspension-Bridge village and 
Clifton, and sustains the track of the Great Western Railway, is about 2 
M. N. of the Falls. It was built in 1852, under the direction of John A. 
RoebUng, and cost $500,000. It is 800 ft. long, and 230 ft. above the 
river, and weighs 800 tons, being fitted to sustain a maximum weight of 
7,309 tons. It is supported by 4 cables (10^ inches thick), each of which 
contains 3,684 wires, with a total length of over 4,000 M. of wire; and 
its towers are 78 and 88 ft. high. The first wire was drawn across by a 
string which had been carried over on a kite. 18 ft. above the carriage- 
way is the railway-floor, over which the heaviest trains pass safely, 
causing a deflection in the curve of but 5-10 inches. On the S. W. 
the New Suspension Bridge and the Falls are seen, while on the N. are 
the white and terrible * Whirlpool Rapids. Just beyond the Monteagle 
House (American side) is a double elevator (50c.), which leads from the 
top of the bank 300 ft. do^vn to the verge of these marvellous rapids, where 
the waters of the great lakes are compressed into a narrow gorge, and 
rush down with such fury that the centre of the stream is 30-40 ft. 
higher than the sides. Jime 15, 1867, the intrepid pilot Robinson guided 
the steamer Maid of the Mist as she shot these rapids, " like the 
swift sailing of a large bird in a downAvard flight." Her smoke-stack was 
beaten down, and the vessel was tossed like a leaf on the huge surges, but 
speedily reached the calm water below Lewiston in safety. About 1 M, 
below the rapids is the "Whirlpool, situated in a circular bend of the 
river, and bounded by cliffs 350 ft. high. Logs and other things which 



ST. CATHARINE'S. Routed. 185 

are drawn into these concentric currents whirl about there for many- 
days. 

Queenston is an insignificant Canadian haralet 6 M. N. of the Falls ; 
above v/hich a lofty monument was erected on the place Avhere Gen. Brock 
fell in the battle of Queenston Heights. This was blown tip by a scoun- 
drelly refugee in 1840 ; and in 1853 the present noble * monument was 
dedicated. On a base 40 ft. square and 20 ft. high are 4 colossal lions, 
between which rises a lofty fluted shaft of sandstone. On the Corinthian 
capital is a relief of the Goddess of War, and above this is a dome wliicli 
supports a colossal statue of Gen. Brock. The monument is 185 ft. high, 
and is ascended by an inner spiral stairway of 250 steps. The view from 
this point is extensive, and includes the tower on Lundy's Lane, a con- 
siderable sweep of the river, and the broad lake. 

St. Catharine's {,* Stephenson House; * Welland House; Spring 
Bank, famous for its baths) is a city of Ontario, 6 M. from Queenston. 
It is called "the Saratoga of Canada," and has several mineral springs, 
producing the best iodo-bromated saline Avaters in the world (except those 
of Prussian Kreuznach). They are taken for cases of go lit, neuralgia, 
cutaneous diseases, and rheumatism, eitlier by means of warm baths or 
internally (highly diluted). Tlie principal minerals in solution are the 
cldorides of sodium, calcium, and magnesium. Welland is located on the 
Welland Canal ; and a favorite drive is to Lake Ontario, 3 M. distant, — 
whence, fi'om Port Dalhousie, steamers run daily to Toronto. 6 M. N. of 
Queenston is the village of Niagara. 

It is probable that the fearless Franciscan monks and the adventurous fur- 
traders of France had often seen the Falls at a very early day. But the first de- 
scription (with a sketch) was made by Father Hennepin in 1678, who gave them 
a heiglit of 600 ft., saying also : " Betwixt the Lakes Erie and Ontario theie is a 
vast and prodigious cadence of water which falls down a surprising and astonish- 
ing height, insomuch that the universe does not afford its parallel The 

waters which fall from this horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most 
liideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous noise, more terrible than that 
of thunder : for when the wind blows out of the S. their dismal roaring may be 
heard more than 15 leagues. The River Niagara, having thrown itself down this 
incredible precipice, continues its impetuous course for 2 leagues together .... 

with an inexpressible rapidity The two brinks of it ai-e so prodigious high 

tliat it would make one tremble to look steadily upon the water rolling along with 
a rapidity not to be imagined." Before this visit the peaceful Kahkwa tribe 
(called the Neuter Nation) had been driven from the region, and the Senecas had 
replaced them , i)ut did not dwell near the cascades (Hennepin thinks they feared 
to be made deaf by "the horrid noise of the Fall"). In 1687 the Baron La 
Hontan visited the Falls, and reported them to be 7-800 ft. high and 1^ M. wide. 
The name Niagara is said to mean " Thunder of Waters." In 1678 La Salle en- 
tered the river (with 16 men, in a 10-ton brigantine) singing the Te Deum, and 
the next year sailed from above the Falls in the first vessel on the Great Lakes. 
In 1687 a fort was built at Niagara by the Marquis De Nonville ; and in 1750 Fort 
du Portage was erected above the Falls. This was taken in the year of the Con- 
quest of Canada, and was sti-engthened under the name of Fort Schlosser. In 
1763 occurred a horrible massacre at Devil's Hole, 3^ M. N. of the Falls, when a 
large force of Senecas ambushed a commissary-train with a strong escort, on the 
shore of Bloody Run. But 2 of the train-guards escaped, while the supports 



186 Render. THE NIAGARA FRONTIER. 

which were hurried from Le''.vist(jjii to the sound of the firing were neai'ly all put 
to the tomahawk in a second ambush. Many of the victims Avere cast alive from 
the lofty cliffs into the boiling Niagara, and their horses and wagons were hurled 
down after them. 

Tho Battles along the Niagara Frontier. 

The Battle of Qucenston Heights was fought Oct. 13, 1812. A small force of 
U. S. regulars crossed the river before dawn and stormed the Heights under a 
heavy fire, but were coon hotly engaged with fresh British troops brought up by 
Sir Isaac Brock. After a long coutest, in which Brock was killed, the regulars 
under Scott and Wool held their ground and repulsed a second attack by 250 Mo- 
hawks under Brant But most of the large army of N. Y. militia refused to cross' 
to their aid from Lewi.ston, and Gen. Sheaffe soon fell upon the heroic little band 
v/Ith an overwhelming Canadian force, and compelled it to surrender. The 
British lost loO men ; and the Americans lost 1,100 men (900 i)risoners, of whom 
4 - 500 were not engaged, and were hidden under the banks of the river). After 
several sharj) actions ali>ng t!ie river, in May, 1813, an American fleet and army 
attacked the fortifications (garrisoned by 1,800 men) at tlie mouth of the Niagara 
and captured them by a naval bombardment and a land-battle, inflicting on tho 
British a loss of 863 men. 1,300 Americans pursued the enemy as far as Stony 
Creek, where they were surprised at night and lost 151 men, and their genera);? 
and artillery, while the British loss was 178. The Americans were soon afterward 
defeated near Thorold with a loss of 540 men ; and were obliged at a later day to 
burn NeAvark and withdraw across the river to Fort Niagara, which Avas soon 
captured by a night attack, and LcAviston Avas sacked and destroyed. After vari- 
ous sharp actions near Buffalo, Gens. Scott and BroAvn advanced to within 4 M. 
of Niagara Falls, and there(July 5, 1814) Avas fought the Batth of CJiippea-a. The 
combatants Avere 1,300 Americans and 1,700 Britons, and after a long and obsti- 
nate conflict of infantry, the enemy fled in confusion, having lost 604 men (Ameri- 
can loss, 335). 

" O'er Huron's wave the sun A^^as low, And while the phantom chained his eight, 

The weary soldier Aratchcd llie bow Ah ! little thought he of the fight, — 

Fast fading from the cloud below The horrors of the dreamless night, 
The dashing of Niagara. Tliat posted on so rapidly." 

The Battle ofNiafjara Falls, or Lundy's Lane, Avas fought July 25, 1814, on the 
heights 1 M. W. of the Falls. Several days after the victory at Chippewa, Scott 
advanced with 1,200 men, and engaged the British at Lundy's Lane. He supposed 
that but a small force was before him, but in reality it AA^as the Avhole hostile army. 
Jessup's 25th Eegulars charged through the lines of Wellington's veterans and 
captured Gen. Riall and his stafl', and at 9 in the evening the rest of the army 
reinforced Scott. A little later. Col. Miller and the 21st Regulars advanced up 
the heights in the moonlight and stormed the British batteries above. After a 
terrible hand-to-hand contest with the infantry supports. Miller held the hill, Avith 
7 pieces of British artillery, and repulsed 4 charges of the enemy. When the last 
British assault Avas disastrously repulsed, the Americans remained in possession 
of the enemy's positions and guns. Later in the night they retired a short dis- 
tance from the field and battery, which Avere reoccupied by the royalists. There 
were 2,600 Americans in this battle (of whom 852 were lost\ and 4,500 BritivSh (of 
whom 878 Avere lost). The Battle of Niagara Falls " has few parallels in history 
in its Avealth of gallant deeds. It was fouglit wholly in the shadows of a summer 

evening betAveen sunset and midnight Above Avas a serene sky, a placid 

moon in its wane, and innumerable stars, — a vision of Beauty and Peace ; beloAV 
Avas the sulphurous smoke of battle, .... out of Avhicli came the quick flashes 
of lightning and tlie belloAving of the echoes of its voice, —a vision of Horror and 
Strife. Musket, rocket, and cannon, cracking, hissing, and booming ; and the 
clash of sabre and bayonet, with the cries of human A^^)ices, made a horrid din 
tliat commingled with tlie awful, solemn roar of the great cataract hard by, whose 
muffled thunder-tones rolled on, on, forever, in infinite grandeur when the puny 
drum had ceased to beat, and silence had settled upon the field of carnage. There 
the dead were buried, and the mighty diapason of the flood Avas their requiem." 

(LOSSING.) 



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NIAGARA. Routers. 187 

28. Niagara Falls to Toronto and Montreal. Lake Ontario 
and the St. Lawrence River. 

Trains leave Niagara Falls twice daily (in summer ; once daily at other seasons) 
for Lewiston, where connections are made with steamers for Toronto (fare througli 
to Toronto, $2). Passengers from the Canadian side (Clifton House, etc.) will find 
it more convenient to take trains on the Canada Southern Railway from Clifton 
station to Niagara (at the mouth of the river), where the steamers stop on the 
way from Lewiston to Toronto. Some tourists prefer to take the Great Western 
Railway from Suspension Bridge to Hamilton (43 M.), a handsome city of 28,000 
inhabitants, whence the Royal Mail steamers start for Montreal (Toronto being a 
way-station). Others, during stormy weather on the lake, pass by rail to Hamil- 
ton and Toronto (82 M.), and thence by the Grand Trunk Railway to Kingston, at 
the efflux of the St. Lawrence (161 M. from Toronto). There are many who go 
from Lewiston to Toronto by boat, and then take the train for Kingston or Mon- 
treal ; but in pleasant summer weather the lake route is preferable. 

After leaving Niagara Falls the train passes along the edge of the gorge 
in which the river flows, and soon crosses the rails of the main line to the 
West (at Suspension Bridge). The river is now left, and the line runs out 
by the Academy of the Holy Angels, and returns (in 3-4 M. ) to the edge 
of the profound chasm in which flows the Niagara, white with i-apids, and 
contracted into a narrow channel. After 2-3 M., in which the train 
whirls along a lofty gallery in the cliff" far above the river, the Lewiston 
station is reached. Stages are taken to the steamboat-landing, which is 
nearly 1 M. distant. Lewiston is a decadent village at the head of navi- 
gation, and at the N. base of the mt. range through which the Niagara 
has cut its way during the past 35,000 years (Lyell). A fine suspension 
bridge was built thence to Queenston in 1850, with a span of 1,045 ft., 
and a height of 60 ft., but was capsized during a heavy gale. 

The Tuscarora Reservation is 3 M. E. of Lewiston, and contains 6,249 acres, on 
which live 372 Indians, most of whom are engaged in making knick-knacks for the 
shops at the Falls. The Tuscaroras were driven by hostile tribes from their home 
in North Cai-olina (in 1712), and migrated to New York, where they joined the 
Iroquois Confederation, which was afterwards known as the Six Nations. 

The steamer passes out into the stream with a fine retrospect of the 
mouth of the Niagara gorge and the moni;ment-crovvned Heights of 
Queenston. At the mouth of the river, the American Fort Niagara is 
passed on the r., and on the 1. are the ruins of Fort George, the strong 
works of the Anglo-Canadian Fort Massasauga, and the village of Niagara. 
The great summer resort called The Queen's Royrd Niagara Hotel fronts 
on the lake, and is a favorite retreat for the aristocracy of Toronto. The 
steamer now enters Lake Ontario (Ontario is an Indian word, meaning 
"handsome water"), and running on a N. W. course for about 30 M., 
enters the harbor of 

Toronto. 

Hotels. — * Rossin House, .S3 a day ; * Queen's Hotel, Front St., .$3 ; Mansion 
House, opposite Rossin House (corner King and York Sts.), S 1.50- 2 ; Revere 
House, King St., small and comfortable, !$ 1.50 ; American House, Yonge St., near 
the G. W. statiou, lately rebuilt : Albion Hotel ; St. James, near the Union Rail- 
way Station. Restaurant in tlie Union Station. 



188 Route 28. TORONTO. 

Carriages. — 25c. a course in either of the city divisions ; 50c. from one di- 
vision to another; $] an hour. Horse-cars (bv.) on King, Yonge, and Queen Sts., 
to Trinity College and the Lunatic Asylum. Stages daily from the Bay Horse Inn 
(Yonge St.) to Thornhill, Richmond Hill, Rouge Hill, Cooksville, and Stouffville. 

Keading-Koomg. — At the Y. M. C. A. rooms, corner of Queen and James 
Sts. ; Mechanics' Institute, Church and Adelaide Sts. Post-Office, on Adelaide St., 
at the head of Toronto. 

Amusements. Royal Lyceum Theatre, King St. ; Lectures and Music at 
Music Hall, Adelaide St. ; Masonic Hall, Toronto St. ; Shaftesbury Hall, Queen 
and James Sts. 

Railways. —From the Union Railway Station, on Front, between York and 
Simcoe Sts. Grand Trunk, to Guelph, 48 M. ; to Detroit, 231 M. ; to Goderich, 
133 M. ; to Montreal, 333 M. : to Portland, Me., 628 M. Great Western, to Ham- 
ilton, 39 M. ; to Niagara Falls^ 82 M. ; to Detroit, 225 M. ; to Southampton (on 
Lake Huron), 187 M. Northern Railway, to Orillia (on Lake Simcoe), 86 M. ; to 
Meaford (on (Jeorgiau Bay), 115 M. Toronto, Grey, and Bruce Railway, to Mt. 
Forest, 88 M. ; to Owen Sound (on Georgian Bay), 178 M. Toronto and Nipissing 
Railway, to Coboconk (on the Victoria Co. Lakes), 88 M. 

Steamers. — The Canadian Navigation Co.'s Royal Mail Line vessels leave 
twice daily, for Hamilton and Montreal. The boat leaving Hamilton at 9 a. m., 
leaves Toronto at 2 p. m. A steamer leaves Toronto once daily (twice in summer) for 
Lewiston, 30 M. S., connecting with trains for Buffalo. The Silver Spray leaves 
every afternoon for Port Dalhousie and St. Catharine's. 

Toronto, the capital of the Province of Ontario and the " Queen City 
of the West," is situated on a low sandy plain on the N. W. shore of Lake 
Ontario, between the Don and Humber Rivers. The harbor is safe and 
commodious, and is formed by a sandy bar (7 M. long and 2^ M, from the 
shore) which ends at Gibraltar Point, opposite the city. Toronto is the 
chief city of Upper Canada, and has a population of 80,000, with a valua- 
tion of $ 33,645,000. The population in 1850 was 25,000. There are 54 
churches, 13 masonic lodges, and 10 banks, while the press is represented 
by 5 dailies, 14 weeklies, and 26 monthlies. The exports in 1871 were 
$ 2,118,978, and the imports were $ 10,354,265. Tliere are 3 grain-eleva- 
tors on the harbor-front, with a storage capacity of 615,000 bushels. The 
streets are level and well paved, and run N. and S., E. and W., crossing 
each other at right angles. The princijial streets are King and Yonge, 
the latter crossing King and riinning N. for 33 M., with line villas in the 
environs of the city. 

The * University College of the Univ. of Toronto (open 2-5 P. M.) is 
situated in a pleasant park, and is reached (from Queen St.) by College 
Avenue, 4,000 ft. long and 120 ft. wide, witli double rows of shade trees. 
The building forms 3 sides of a quadrangle 250 ft. square (the length of 
the S. front being 384 ft.), and cost over $ 500,000. Tlie various fronts 
have a unique and imposing appearance, and the whole forms the best 
specimen of Norman architecture in America. In the centre of the S. 
front is a massive tower 120 ft. high, under which is the * main portal, 
which, with the great window above, is a perfect flower of Norman orna- 
mentation. Passing through the entrance one enters a lofty vestibule 
traversed by a line of round arches upheld by stunted columns with gro- 
tesquely carved capitals. The massive walls running through the interior 



TORONTO. Route 28. 189 

of the building, and the stained timber roofs, should be noticed. A stair- 
way to the r. from the entrance leads up to the Library (20,000 volumes), 
which occupies a large, well-liglited hall with a pointed oaken roof. The 
stairway to the 1. leads to the Museum, a hall similar to the Library 
(75X36 ft.), and filled with natural-liistory collections in well-arranged 
cabinets. The E. building is readied by a round tower in which stone 
stairs ascend by a range of stained-glass windows to the reading-room ; and 
contains the Convocation Hall, a spacious wainscoted chamber ending 
in a stained-glass window, and covered by a pointed timber roof, which 
rests on richly carved corbels of Caen stone. A broad stairway by the 
door leads to the Senate Hall, whose vestibule is lined with quaintly 
carved Caen-stone corbels. Tlie W. range (336 ft. long) is occupied by the 
rooms of the students, and at the S. W. corner is the round building of 
the Laboratory. The E. front (260 ft. long) has 2 towers topped with 
spires, in one of which is a Norman portal with sturdy columns carved 
with chevrons. The University was founded in 1827, with an endowment 
(from King William IV.) of 226,000 acres of land, which now yiekls a 
large revenue. It has 9 professors and 5 lecturers, with 32 scholarships. 
The buildings are of gray rubble-stone, trimmed with Ohio and Caen 
stone, and are of picturesquely irregular outlines. To the E. is the 
* Queen's Park, a domain of 50 acres, whicli has been leased to the city for 
999 years. Beyond the E. facade is a sinuous lakelet, near whose S. shore 
is a tall brown-stone monument, with 4 marble statues in the upper niches 
(2 military and 2 allegorical female figures), and a colossal marble statue 
of Britannia on the top. " Canada erected this monument as a memorial 
of her brave sons who fell at Limeridge, or died from wounds received in 
action, or from disease contracted in the service whilst defending her 
frontier in June, 18G6." N(!ar the entrance to the Park on this side is a 
fine bronze statue of Queen Victoria (by Marshall Wood), at whose foot 
are two trophy cannon from Inkermann and Sebastopol. A short distance 
N. of the University is Knox College (Presbyterian; with 5 instructors), 
while on Clover Hill (E. ) is St. Basil's Church, luider monks of the order 
of Basilians. 

* St. James Cathedral (Episcopal) is a stately edifice on the comer of 
King and Church Sts. The architecture is the early English Gotliic, and 
the seclusion of the building among umbrageous grounds adds to its 
attractiveness. It is 200 X 115 ft., with a height in the nave of 70 
ft. (in the aisles, 35 ft.). The spire is 316 ft. high, and is adorned 
with a great illuminated clock from the Vienna Exposition. The open 
timber-roof is well adorned, and the wood-work of the pews and 
choir-stalls is worthy of notice. The chancel (semi-octagonal ; 42 ft. 
deep) has lancet-windows filled with stained glass. Nearly opposite the 
Cathedral is St. Lawrence Hall, with an extensive market-place, S. of 



190 Route 28. TORONTO. 

which is tlie City Hall, on a broad square near the harbor. Just N. of 
the Catliedral is the College of Technology (well endowed by the Govern- 
ment), and in the same building is the Mechanics' Institute, with its 
library (7,000 volumes), halls, and reading-room. Farther N. is the new 
and elegant Metropolitan Wesleyan Church (on Magill Square), having a 
massive tower surmounted by graceful pinnacles. St. Michael's Catlie- 
dral (Catholic) is near by, and is a spacious edifice 200 X 90 ft., with an 
ornate ceiling %Q ft. above the floor of the nave. The edifice is in deco- 
rated Gothic architecture, and has broad transepts with rose-windows. 
The spire is 250 ft. high. To the W. is Trinity Church, secluded in a 
quiet square; and a short distance N. is the Normal School. The main 
building is in Palladian architecture, and contains a large hall. The 
Model Schools ai-e near by, and so is the Educational Museum, which, be- 
sides many other curiosities, contains several casts from ancient statuary 
and a collection of Italian and Flemish paintings. These buildings are 
surrounded by 7^ acres of grounds, which are well laid out and adorned 
with trees and flowers. The Masonic Hall is on Toronto St., and has an 
ornate front of Ohio stone, while the upper story is occupied by the lodge, 
chapter, and encampment rooms. At the head of Toronto St. is the new 
and elegant building of the Post-0 ffi.ce. In the district bounded by King, 
York, Front, and Nelson Sts. are the large banks and wholesale houses. 
* Osgoode Hall is a stately Government building (on Queen St.) which is 
used for the sessions of the 4 Suj)erior Courts of the Province, and also 
for a laAv school. It is in classic architecture, with fine colonnades and a 
massive and fire-proof interior. The cost was % 420,000. Between Front 
St. and the harbor, and the most conspicuous object as the city is ap- 
proached from the lake, is the long and lofty Union Railway Station, 
with its 3 towers. In this vicinity (N. W.) are the old Provincial Parlia- 
ment Buildings and their subordinate ofiices. The Upper Cctnoda College 
fronts on King St., and has a range of very homely buildings. Trinity 
College is W, of the city (Queen St. horse-cars), and is situated in pleas- 
ant grounds (20 acres) overlooking the bay. It is in the 15th-century 
pointed style, and has numerous gables and turrets. The front is 250 ft. 
long, and there are wings running back 53 ft. It was founded in 1851 by 
Bishop Strachan. In this vicinity is the spacious building of the Provin- 
cial Lunatic Asylum, surrounded by 200 acres of ornamental groxmds, S. 
of whicli is the Crystal Palace, an extensive exposition building. The 
General Hospital is a fine building on the E. of the city, near the Victoria 
Medical College. The House of Providence (near St. Paul's, on Power 
St.) is carried on by 16 Sisters of St. Joseph and cares for 240 orphans 
and 110 blind, lame, or incurable folk. The Loretto Abbey (45 mins ; on 
Wellington Place) and the Convent of the Most Precious Blood (on St. 
Joseph St.) are interesting Catholic institutions. 



PORT HOPE. Route 28. 191 

Toronto means " Trees on the Water," and was a name applied by the Indians 
to the low groves on Gibraltar Point. On the site of tlie city the capital of Up- 
per Canada was founded by Gov. Sinicoe in 1797 ; and in 1813 it had 9uO inhabi- 
tants, with fortifications garrisoned by 800 soldiers. It was then called Little 
York, and was a post of much importance. An American fleet under Com. 
Chauncey appeared off the harbor (May 27, 1S13), and opened a heavy fire on the 
lines ; while detachments of U. S. re..,^ulars landed and carried the outworks at 
tlie point of the bayonet. The British al)andoned tlie chief fort in dismay, having 
first fixed a slow-match to the great magazine (containing 500 barrels of powder 
and an immense quantity of shot and shells). A terrible explosion followed, in 
which 52 Americans were killed, and Gen. Pike and 180 were wounded. Of the 
British garrison, 300 men were captured, and 149 were killed and wounded. 
Just after the capitulation Gen. Pike died, with the British fort-flag under hi.s 
head. The Americans burnt the public buildings, and carried off the supplies 
and artillery, and a frigate which was taken in the harbor. York was evacuated 
by the victors 4 days after the l)attle. 2 months afterward another naval attack 
was made, and 11 JBritish transports and 6 cannon were taken. 

The Royal Mail Steamers of the Canadian Navigation Co. leave Hamil- 
ton daily at 9 a. m. and Toronto at 2 P. M. They reach Port Hope at 6.50 
p. M. ; Kingston at 5. 30 a. m. ; Gananoque at 7 A. M. ; Brockvilleat 9.30; 
Prescott at 10.30; Cornwall at 1.20 P. M. ; and Montreal at 6.45 P. M. 
State-rooms should be secured as eai'ly as possible, and travellers should 
he awakened on leaving Kingston in order to see the Thousand Islands. 
The Scarboro' Highlands are passed on the N., as the steamer leaves 
Toronto, and the first landing is at Darlington, a fine harbor and but 
little else, 2| M. S. of Bowmanville, from which there is railroad commu- 
nication to Port Perry, on the wide waters of Lake Sciigog. Steaming 
out again upon the lake, at about supper-time the boat reaches Port Hope 
{St. Lawrence Hall), a picturesque village of Durham County. It is chiefly 
located in a narrow valley which is overlooked by the hill of Fort Orton, 
and is surrounded by a good farming country. The population is 5,400; 
with 3 banks, 3 weekly papers, and 7 churches. There is a neat park of 
14 acres at the E. end of the village, and on the hill near by is Trinity 
College (an academy of high grade). The port owns a large fleet of 
schooners, which are engaged in freighting lumber and grain. A daily 
steamer runs to Charlotte ( Rochester), N. Y. ; and trains on the Midland 
Railway run N. W. to Beaverton and Orillia (66 and 87 M.), thriving 
villages on Lake Simcoe, connecting with steamers for the ports on Lakes 
Simcoe, Muskoka, and Rousseau. The Midland Railway also runs N. to 
Lakefield (40 M. ), connecting there with steamers on the Salmon Trout, 
Buckhorn, Chemung, Pigeon, and Bald Lakes, "a chain of beautiful 
lakes stretching N. half-way to the Arctic Sea." 

Cobourg is 7 M. beyond Port Hope, and Is reached by late twilight. 
It is the capital of Northumberland and Durham Cos., and has 5,000 in- 
habitants, 7 churches, 2 banks, and 3 weekly papers. The buildings of 
Victoria College sive. in the N. environs; and the museum contains over 
5,000 specimens, including a small Egyptian collection. It is a university 
(with 150 students) under control of the Wesleyan ChnroJi, and has a 



192 Routers. KINGSTON. 

law school at Montreal and a medical college at Toronto. There are 9 
acres of grounds, and instruction is given by 5 professors. Cobourg is iu 
the centre of a fertile farming country, and ships annually to the U. S. 
30,000,000 ft. of lumber, 30,000 tons of iron ore, and 150,000 bushels of 
grain. There are daily steamers to Charlotte, N. Y. ; and a railway runs 
N. 13 M. to Harwood, on the many-islanded Rice Lake, whence steamers 
ply, on Rice and Marmora Lakes,, to Peterborough (tri-weekly; 30 M. 
N. W. ) and Bhxirton. After leaving Cobourg, the steamer passes well 
out into Lake Ontario, to avoid the great peninsular county of Princd* 
Edward, N. of which lies the Bay of Quinte. At early dawn Amherst 
Island is passed, and by daylight the broad harbor of Kingston is 
entered. 

Kingston {British AmeHca7i Hotel) is the chief city of Frontenac County, 
and is favorably situated at the confluence of the Cataracqiii and St. Law- 
rence Rivers, at the foot of Lake Ontario, and above the head of the 
Thousand Islands. It is a city of 13,000 inhabitants, with 12 churches, 
2 small cathedrals, 2 daily papers, and numerous manufactories. The 
imports in 1871 were nearly $8,000,000, and the exports were $1,435,000. 
In the W. environs is the Queen's University^ a Presbyterian institution, 
with faculties of arts and theology; near which is the Collegiate Institute 
(incorporated in 1792). The Royal College of Physicians has 11 professors. 
The Catholic College of Regiopolis has attractive buildings, and the Black 
Nuns and Christian Brothers conduct large schools. 2 M. W. is the Pen- 
itentiary, a first-class prison with 5 - 600 convicts, who are so employed 
that the institution is nearly self-supporting. The Rockicood Lunatic 
Asylum (3-400 inmates) is a fine building pertaining to the Dominion 
Government, situated near the Penitentiary. Kingston ranks, as a fortress, 
next to Quebec and Halifax, its harbor being defended by strong batteries, 
the chief of which is Fort Henry, on Point Frederick (tlie Dominion 
Military School). The principal streets are Princess and King, and tlie 
City Hall is a fine building. The bay is very broad and deep, sheltered 
by Wolfe and Garden Islands ; and there are provisions for making here 
an extensive naval depot in time of war. At Kingston was built the 
I)owerful British fleet which played a bloodless and amusing (but costly) 
game of hide-and-seek with Chauncey's American squadron (see page 
158). The city was founded by De Courcelles in 1672, and was subse- 
quently named Fort Frontenac. It was occupied by the British iu 1762, 
and became the capital of Upper Canada. 

The Grand Trunk Railway station is 2 M. N. of the city (carriages, 25c. : 50c. 
at night), and has a large restaurant where through passengers dine (20 min.; 
.'iOc). Ferry-steamers run to Garden Island 4 times daily, and to Capt Vincent, 
N. Y., where a connection is made with the Rome, W., and O. R. R. (see pa^ e 
160). A railroad is being Imilt to Pembroke, 148 M. N. on the Ottawa River; 
and the Rideau Canal runs from Kingston to the city of Ottawa. 



THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. Route 2S. 193 

Tlie Thousand Islands. 

" The Thousand Isles, the Thousand Isles, " A thousand birds their praises wake, 
Dimpled the wave aruund theui smiles, By rocky glade and plumy brake. 

Kissed by a thousand red-lipped flowers, A thousand cedars' fragrant shade 

Gemmed by a thousand emerald bowers. Falls where the Indians' children played." 

JiTst beyond Kingston commences that part of the St. La-wrence River 
■which is called the Lake of the Thousand Islands. It extends for 40 M., 
with a ■width in some places of 7 M. ; and its surface is broken by over 
1,800 islands and islets. These are of every shape and size, and are for 
the most part well covered "with foliage; while many of them are but 
rugged masses of rock. The scenery in autumn, when the foliage has 
turned into its brilliant dying colors, is gorgeous in the extreme. As the 
steamer passes through the nari'ow channels of the archipelago, constant 
kaleidoscopic changes ensue, and group after group of gem-like islets start 
into view, shift their relative positions, and are left astern, while new clus- 
ters open in advance. Descending rapidly with the current, the boat often 
passes within biscuit-toss of the islands, and then swings into wider chan- 
nels, with an open view on all sides. This region is celebrated for its fine 
facilities for hunting (wild fowl) and fishing. The boundary-line (of 1818) 
runs through the lake, leaving Howe and Wolfe Islands to Canada, and 
Carleton, Grindstone, and Wells Islands to the Republic. In the first 27 
M. the lake decreases from 9 M. to 2 M. in width. 

At least three imposing martial processions have traversed these island-gemmed 
waters. In July, 1673, the Count de Froiitenac, Governor of Canada, led 2 gun- 
barges and 120 canoes from Montreal to Cataracqui (Kingston), with all the avail- 
able militia of the French colony. He was attended by the Abbe de F^nelon, 
who was a missionaiy to the Iroquois Indians from 1667 to 1674, and afterwards 
became Archbishop of Cambrai (France), preceptor of the prince royal, and 
author of the famous epic, " Lcs Aventures de Tdeniaque." In August, 1760, Lord 
Amherst led the Anglo-American army by this route to the Conquest of Canada. 
It consisted of 10,848 men, composed of the 44th, 46th, and 55th, and parts of 
the 60th, 77th, and 80th line regiments, with 600 grenadiers, 167 men of the 
Royal Artillery, 150 rangers, 706 Indians. 3 New York battalions, the 1st New 
Jersey Infantry, and several New England battalions. The forces were convoyed 
by the gunboats Onondaga and Mohawk. In November, 1813, Wilkinson's Amer- 
ican army passed down the lake in 300 vessels, having 6,000 men from 11 regi- 
ments, with the Rifles, Light Artillery, and Dragoons. 

Amherst Island is the most westerly of the group, and is well out in 
the lake (passed before reaching Kingston). It is an appanage of the 
Earl of Mountcashel, and contains over 5,000 acres of cultivated ground. 
On leaving Kingston, Fort Henry is seen on the 1., with the martello 
tower on Cedar Island; and Garden Island is farther S. The steamer 
soon enters Kingston Channel, a broad sound between Howe Island (N.) 
and Wolfe Island, a populous district covering 9,000 .acres, and provided 
with a steam-ferry to Kingston. S. of this (and 3 M. below Cape Vincent) 
is Carleton Island, which was fortified at an early date by the French. 
The British erected here a strong work called Fort Carleton about the 
time of the Revolution, and made the " King's Garden." The fort com- 
9 M 



194 Roiite^S. ALEXANDRIA BAY. 

mantled tlie S. clianiiel, and was partly cut in the rocky ledges, the stone 
being used for an escarpment. In 1775 it was held by a disciplined band 
of Moliawks, and in 1812 it was taken and destroyed by the Americans 
The island contains 1,274 acres, and has a lighthouse on the W. ; while on 
the S. are the ruins of the fort and the graves of the garrison. Grenadier 
Island, the rendezvous of Wilkinson's army in 1813, is now a dairy-farm. 
The Cape Vincent shores were settled by a group of notable families of 
French refugees, headed by the Count de Real, Napoleon's Chief of 
Police ; and this was to have been the home of Napoleon, if he had • 
succeeded in escaping from France after the battle of Waterloo. The 
steamer passes through the clusters of islets between Howe's Island and 
the mainland, and stops at Gananoque, a flourishing village with 5 churches 
and several factories. It is situated at the outlet of the Gananoque River, 
and is 2i M. from the Grand Trunk Railway. Many summer visitors re- 
main here; while others cross in the steam-ferry to the American village 
of Clayton (see page 159), an important lumber-station at the mouth of 
French Creek. Many vessels have been built at Clayton; and here the 
lumber which is brought by vessels from the upper lakes is made into 
rafts, and floated to Quebec. The fishing in this vicinity is very fine, 
including pike, black bass, and enormous maskinonge. Steamers ply 
between Cape Vincent, Clayton, and Alexandria Bay. Passing out from 
Gananoque, the steamer now enters an archipelago of small islets ex- 
tending to Wells Island. Alexandria Bay, a village of New York, S. 
of Wells Island, is the chief summer resort of the Thousand Islands. 
It has two fine hotels, — the * Thousand Islands House (600 guests), and 
the * (Jrossmun House (overlooking the lake and islands), with a large 
flotilla of pleasure-boats. *' The Church of the Thousand Isles" is a stone 
building with an Italian campanile, built by the efl'orts of Dr. Bethime. 
The islets near the Bay are ailorned with pleasant villas, in one of which 
(owned by Mr. Pullman, of palace-car fame) President Grant was enter- 
tained in the summer of 1873. The village is very small, and is built on 
a pile of gneiss-rocks by the river-side. The fishing among the islands is 
very good, and skilful boatmen are furnished if required. 7-10 M. S. E. 
are the romantic Lakes (Clear, Crystal, Mud, Butterfield, and Lake of 
the North) of Theresa, with good fishing, and shores and islands abound- 
ing in rare niinei'als. 



ALEXANDRIA BAY. Route 28. 194 a. 

The hamlet of Alexandria Bay has about 400 mhabitants, with Re- 
formed and Metliodist churches. It rose into prominence as a summer- 
resort about the year 1872, and in 1875 over 10,000 tourists sojourned here. 
In earlier years this locality was visited by \V. H. Seward, Silas Wright, 
Martin Van Buren, Preston King, Gen. Dick Taylor, and Frank Blair. 
The usual routes are by the Rome, Watertown and Ogdensburg R. R. to 
Cape Vincent, 30 1\I. distant, whence the steamer T. S. Faxton runs to 
the Bay twice daily, touching at Clayton. Another branch of the same 
railroad runs to Ogdensburg, whence daily steamboats pass to the Bay 
(36 M.). The Utica and Black River R. R. runs to Clayton, whence 
the steamer J. H. Kelly runs to the Bay (12 M.) ; and a branch of the 
same line runs N. to Morristown, passing Kedwood station, whence four- 
horse stages run to the Bay (7 M.), passing through Theresa. Visitors 
from the E., coming over the Central Vermont R. R., take the steamboat 
at Ogdensburg. The steamers of the Royal Mail line, running between 
Montreal and Toronto, touch at the Bay. The Crossmon House is pro- 
vided with gas and water, and accommodates 300 guests. There is a fruit 
and refreshment hall attached, with news-stand and ice-cream saloon. 

It is claimed that there are 1,000 islands within 6 M. of Alexandria Bay, 
varying in area from a few square yards to many acres. They are visited 
daily by a small steamboat, running as an express from the village, and 
carry passengers. Among the chief of the islets already occupied are 
Deer, Brown's, Summer Land, Long Branch, Cherry, Deshler, Florida, 
Plantagenet, Cuba, Arcadia, and Pullman's. There are more than a 
dozen varieties of trees, evergreen and deciduous, on these islets, affording 
a pleasant variety. It is claimed that Thomas Moore wrote a part of his 
famous "Canadian Boat-Song "on Hart's Island. Fiddler's Elbow is a 
remarkable and picturesque group of islets near the Canadian shore. The 
Devil's Oven derives its name from a small cavern into which boats may 
be rowed. Among the favorite grounds for fishing and hunting are Goose 
Bay, 3 M. below the village; Halstead's Bay, on the Canadian shore; and 
Eel Bay, at the end of Wells Island. Wells Island is opposite the vil- 
lage, and is 8 M. long, containing 4,000 acres, much of which is now un- 
der cultivation. It is divided into two parts, connected by a wooded isth- 
mus, and between these sections is a broad expanse of still water, cut off 
from the river by another large island. This sheet is called the Lake of 
the Island, and is 5 M. long by 1 M. wide, abounding in fish and game. 
500 acres on Wells Island have been secured by the Thousand-Island 
Camp- Meeting Associations, for annual international meetings. The adja- 
cent promontories, on the New-York mainland, have also been occupied 
by villas and summer-estates. 

The usual mode of fishing is by trolling, though some still-fishing is 
done. The pickerel are caught at all times, but the muscalonge are taken 
in June and July, and the bass in late June, July, and August. Forty- 



194 5. Routers. ALEXANDRIA BAY. 

pound muscalonge, twenty-pound bass, and six-pound pickerel have been 
caught in these waters. The seasons for shooting wild fowl are late spring 
and early fall, when ducks abound in this vicinity. Many visitors also 
amuse themselves by visiting the historic localities in the vicinity, guided 
by the skilful oarsmen of the village. 

" No Vestal Virgin guards their groves, 
No Cupid breathes of Cyprian loves, 
No satyr's form at eve is seen, 

No dryad peeps the trees between, • 

No Venus rises from their shore. 
No loved Adonis, red with gore, 
No pale Eiidymiou, wooed to sleep. 
No brave Leander breasts their deep, 
No Ganymede, no Pleiades, — 
Theirs are a New World's memories. 

♦' The flag of France first o'er them hung. 
The mass was said, the vespers sung, 
The freres of Jesus hailed the strands. 
As blessed Virgin Mary's lands ; 
And red men mutely heard, surprised, 
Their heathen names all christianized. 
Next floated a banner with cross and crown, 
'T was Freedom's eagle plucked it down, 
Retaining its pure and crimson dyes 
With the stars of their own, their native skies. 

" There St. Lawrence gentlest flows, 
There the south wind softest blows, 
There the lilies whitest bloom, 
There the birch hath leafiest gloom, 
There the red deer feed in spring, 
There doth glitter wood-duck's wing, 
There leap the muscalonge at morn. 
There the loon's night song is borne, 
There is the fisherman's paradise. 
With trolling skiff" at red sunrise. 

" The Thousand Isles, the Thousand Isles, 
Their charm from every care beguiles ; 
Titian alone hath grace to paint 
The triumph of their patron saint, 
W^hose waves return on memory's tide ; 
La Salle and Piquet side by side. 
Proud Frontenac and bold Champlain 
There act their wanderings o'er again ; 
And while their golden sunlight smiles. 
Pilgrims shall greet thee, Thousand Isles I " 

In July, 1813, the small American war-vessels Neptune and Fox captured a bri- 
gade of British batteaux off these shores. They were pursued into Cranberry 
Creek, and succeeded, after a sharp skirmish, in rei>ulsing the enemy with con- 
siderable loss. In Nov., 1813, the vanguard of Wilkinson's army was attacked by 
British gunboats near Bald Island (2 M. below the Bay). Some confusion was 
occasioned at first, but the assailants were soon put to flight. In June, 1814, a 
party of American naval officers and men suri^rised the British gunboat Black 
i>iial:e, near the Bay, and carried her by boarding. Frequent cruises were made 
mtiou;; the islands by the smaller vessels of Com. Chauncey's fleet, and by a Brit- 
ish liotilla composed of the Prince Regent, 10, Earl of Moira, 18, and Duke of 



BROCKVILLE. Route 2S. 1 95 

Gloncester, 20. In 183S a band of insurgents under "William Johnson encamped on 
Abel's Island, and hoisted tiie flag of Free Canada. While the British passenger- 
steamer Sir Robert Peel was taking in wood at Wells Island, tliey boarded her, 
drove the passengers ashore, and set her on lire. She burned to the water's edge, 
at Peel Island. The band soon dispersed, and l)eavy rewards were offered by both 
governments for tlie capture of the authors of the outrage on the Peel. Johnson 
hid among the islands, and remained there for several months, frequently chang- 
ing his location to avoid his piu-suers. During all this time he was supplied with 
food by his daughter Kate, "the heroine of the Thousand Islands," a lovely girl 
only 18 years old, who rowed out alone by niglit to his secret haunts, and baffled 
all pursuit. Being finally captured near Ogdensburg, he was incarcerated in 
Albany jail, and his daughter cho.^e to remain 1here with him. After 6 months he 
escai)ed, and was pardoned by Fi-esident Hai-rison. Thereafter for several years 
he was keeper of the lighthouse on Rock Island, from whose lantern 70 islands 
are visible. 

Beyond Alexandria Bay Batliurst Island is passed, and then the lake 
widen.s between Yonge and the deeply indented shores of Hammond. 
Scores of rocky islets are seen on every side, in constantly changing 
groups. The hamlet of Oak Point is seen on the S., and then Brockville 
is reached. This is a village of 5,500 inhabitants, with 7 churches, and 2 
weekly papers. It is built on a ridge rising from the river, and overlooks 
the islands. The annual shipments to the U. S. amount to 45,000,000 
ft. of lumber, and 6,000 tons of hematite iron ore. The Grand Trunk 
Railway passes through the place, and the Brockville and Ottawa Railway 
runs N. to Perth, Renfrew, and Ottawa (73 M.). Near Brockville it trav- 
erses a tunnel 1,000 ft. long, cut in the solid rock. There are 2 small 
steamers kept in the harbor, with which frequent excursions are made 
among the islands, and to the St. Lawrence Park. A steam ferry-boat 
runs between Brockville and M orrisUnon (N. Y.) every half-hour. Mor- 
ristown is a quiet village 4-5 M. from Black Lake, an uninteresting sheet 
nearly 20 M. long. (The Utica & Black River R. R. ends here.) 

Off this point a fleet of small vessels was attacked by Canadian partisans in 
1812, and 2 were captui-ed. Later in the war there was an indecisive cannonade 
of 3 hrs. duration here, between the American war-vessel Julia and the British 
EarlofMoira. In Feb., 1813, Capt. Forsyth and 200 men crossed to Brockville 
on the ice, and took 50 British prisoners, releasing also 52 Americans from cap- 
tivity. 

Below Brockville the Thousand Islands are left, and the steamer enters 
the open river (2 M. wide). Maitland, with its great deserted distillery, 
i.^ passed on the 1., and the port of Prescott (13 M. fi'om Brockville) is 
reached. Prescott {DanieVs Hotel) is a sombre stone-built village of 
3,000 inhabitants, with 4 churches and 2 weekly papers. There is a con- 
siderable wharf -frontage, but the chief business is done by a great distil- 
lery and brewery. The dilapidated bastions of Fort Wellington are seen 
on the E., and farther down is the old windmill of 1838. The Grand 
Trunk Railway is nearly 1 M. from the village, and the St. Lawrence and 
Ottawa Railway (see Route 15) begins at the river-side. The river is 1 
M. wide at this point, and opposite Prescott (steam-feny every 15 min. ; 
lOc) is the prosperous American city of Ogdensburg {Seymour House ; 



19G R(mte28. OGDENSBURG. 

Woodman House). This city is at the confluence of the St. La^vrence and 
Oswegatchic Rivers, and is regularly laid out and handsomely built, its 
streets being so completely lined with trees as to have won for it the 
name of "The Maple City." The U. S. Post-Offi.ce occupies a new and 
elegant buildhig (with a high dome), which cost $300,000. On the W. 
of the Oswegatchic, and near the site of Fort Presentation, is the great 
St. Jean Ba}>tiste Cliurch. Tliere are nearly 2 M. of wharves along the 
Avater- front, terminated on the E. by an immense grain-elevator. 10,000,000 
bushels of Western grain pass this point yearly, en route to New England. 
The city has peculiar commercial advantages from being at the foot of 
sloop navigation on the great lakes; and connections are formed with 
Central N. Y. and New England by efficient railroads. Extensive flour 
and lumber mills are located here. The population is over 12,000. 

"30 Sept., 1748. The Abbe Piquet departs from Quebec for Fort Fron ten ac. 
He is to look in the neighborhood of that fort for a location best adajited for a 
village for the Iroquois of the Five Nations, who propose to embrace Christian- 
ity." {Paris Doc, X.) He chose the present site of Ogdensburg for his settle- 
ment, and built a stone house and a 5-gun fort, which he named La Presentation, 
in a situation " Avhere a beautiful town could hereafter be built." In 1749 the 
settlement was destroyed by hostile Mohawks, but was speedily reoccupied and 
garrisoned. Piquet erected a 4-towered fort, with 18 cannon, under whose pro- 
tection clustered 5 Indian villages, with 3,000 inhabitants. " Peojde saw with 
astonishment several villages start up all at once ; a convenient, habitable, and 
pleasantly situated fort ; vast clearances covered almost at the same time with 
the tinest maize. More than 500 families, still all infidels, who congregated there, 
soon rendered this settlement the most beautiful, the most charming, and the 
most abundant of tlie colony." (Lettres Curieuses et Edijlantes.) In 1754 - 58 "these 
new children of God, of the King, and of M. Piquet," fought valiantly under the 
Abbe's connnand at tlie battles on Lake George and at Fort Duquesne (Pitts- 
burgh). Duquesne said "the Abbe Picquet is worths regiments"; and Mont- 
calm called him "tlie patriarcli of the Five Nations." Hocquart and others 
speak of him as " the Apostle of the Iroquois" ; while the Anglo-Americans pre- 
ferred the title, "the Jesuit of the West." He was an Abbe of the order of St. 
Sulpice, a Doctor of the Sorbonne, and King's Missionary and Prefect Apostolic 
to Canada. After the Conquest of Canada in 1700, he led 25 Frenchmen in an ad- 
venturous flight up the unexplored great lakes, thence descending the Mississippi 
to New Orleans. He was received with great pomp at Rome, and became Canon 
of Bourg (France), residing at the Abbey of dnny until his death, in 1781. The 
Indian settlement dwindled away until early in the present century, when it was 
broken up. 

La Presentation was gan-isoned by 3 royal regiments in 1776, and an American 
attack was repulsed in 1779. It was held by the British "to protect the fur- 
trade," until 1796, when it was given up under Jay's Treaty. In Oct., 1812, a 
British attack on the place Avas repulsed, and one gunboat was sunk ; but in 
Feb., 1813, the Glengary Light Infantry crossed fi-om Prescott on the ice, and after 
losing 56 men, drove out the militia, and carried off 11 cannon and a large amount 
of stores. The village was incorporated in 1817, and was named for Samuel Ogden, 
its proprietor. In Nov., 1838, a large number of adventurous men congregated 
here, under the command of one Von Schnltz (a Polish leiugee), and fortified 
themselves in a stone windmill on the river-bank 1 M. below Prescott. The ob- 
ject was to furnish a centre and rallying-point for the discontented Canadians, 
and to precipitate a general revolt throughout the provinces. The British regu- 
lars and loyal militia soon attacked the invaders by cannonade, but the massive 
walls of the windmill were proof against field-artillery, and an assault Avas or- 
dei-ed. The storming party was repulsed with heavy loss by the 180 men in the 
mill, and then regular siege operations were begun, Avhile retreat by the river was 
cut off by gunboats. In a few days the starving rebels surrendered, and Von 



PRESCOTT. Routers. 197 

Schultze and 9 men were hung, while 60 more were transported to Van Dieman's 
Land ; 56 were pardoned ; 18 were released, and others died of tlieir wounds. It 
was the last act o( the so-called Patriot War. 

Prescott is 221 M. from Toionto and 112 M. from Montreal, by the Grand Trunk 
Railway ; and o4 M. from Ottawa, by Route 15. Besides being a regular station 
of the Royal Mail steamers, it is visited daily by boats irom and fur other ri\f r- 
ports. Ogdensljurg is 118 M. from Rouse's Point, by the i). & L. C. R. R (Route 
14); and 142 M. from Rome and 129 M. from Oswego, by the R., W. & O. R. R. 
(Route 25). Steamers leave for various river-iior.s daily. 

The propellers of the Northern Traiispoitation Co. leave daily at Tp. m. for the 
Western Lakes. The tour of the lakes by this line costs but little, and is often 
undertaken by travellers whose time is not much limited. There is but slight 
danger of rough water (except occasionally for a few hours on Lake Erie), and the 
boats remain several hours in each of the lake-ports, giving ample time for visit- 
ing their principal attractions. The times, ports, and fares fiom v-gfle isburg 
(including state-rooms and meals for first-class passengers) ate, — at Brockville, 
Can., at 2.15 p. m., 1st day, remaining 15 min. ; at Alexandria Bay, N. Y. (•'J 1.50), 
5 p. M., 15 min. ; at Clayton, N. Y. (.-5 2), at 6.45 p. M.,'l5 min. ; at Cape Vincen , 
N. Y. (^2.50), at 10 p. Ji., 30 min. ; at Oswego, N. Y. (§S), at 4.:{0 a. m., 2d day, 
5 hours ; at Port Dalhousie, Can. (86), at 3 a. M., 3d day. 1 hr. ; at St. Catharine's, 
Can. (^6.50), at 7 a. m. The propeller now enters the locks of the Welland Canal, 
and takes 9 hrs. to go to Thorold, 2 M. distant. Carriages are in waiting to con- 
vey passengers to Niagara Falls, 8-9 M. distant (^ 1 each for parties of 4 or more 
to go and return). 4 hrs. are allowed at the Falls, the carriages return over the 
Lundy's Lane battle-field, and the boat is boarded at Thorold. Leaving Thorold 
at4. lOp. M., PortColborne, attheS. end of the canal, is reached at 7 p. m. Cleveland, 
Ohio (fare from Ogdensburg, $ 10), is entered at 9 a. m., the 4th day, and the boat 
remains tlMjre 4 hrs. At Detroit. Mich. (•■^10), 3 a. m., 5th day, remaining 2-H 
hrs. ; at Port Huron, 5. p. M. ; at Duncan City, 10 a. m., 6th day ; at Glen Haven, 
Mich. ($15), at 6 p. m., 6th day ; at Milwaukee, Wis., at 9 a. m', 7th day (remain- 
ing 4 hrs.); and at Chicago, III. (.$15). at 8 p. m., on the 7th day. Tile 2d-clas8 
fares (separate cabin) are ^ the above rates, but provisions are not fumished. 

As Llie Koyal Mail Steamer passes uut from Pre.scott, the St. Jean Bap- 
tists Church, the Post-Ofhce dome, and the railway grain-elevator are seen 
conspicuou.sly in Ogdensburg. Fort Wellington is on the 1., and the 
historic Windmill Point is soon passed. About 3 M. below Prescott 
(Jhimney fslcmd is seen. This was anciently called Oraconenton by the 
Indians, and was named Isle Royale by the French, who built upon it 
Fort Levis, mounting 35 cannon. In 1760 it was invested by Amherst's 
army of 10,000 men and was assailed by his fleet. After 5 days of bom- 
bardment, the fortress surrendered, about 100 men having fallen on both 
sides. The island was a rendezvous for the Indian bands who harried N. 
Y. during the Revolution; but it has long been deserted, and its sturdy 
ruins have given it the name of Chimney Island. To the S. on the N. Y. 
shore is Indian Point, where the Oswegatchie Indians dwelt; and where 
the Count de Frontenac encamped with his forces in 1673, when he sent 
Fenelon on a mission to the Iroquois. On the N. Y. shore is Red Mills, 
a village of Lisbon town, and off Point Cardinal (on the N.) the first rapid 
is entered {Gallnpes Rapids). The channel next leads between Point Iro- 
quois (N.) and Ogden Island. The Rapide de Plat is then descended, 
and the steamer passes the Canadian village of Morrisburgh, from which 
a ferry-boat runs frequently to Waddington, N. Y. 30 M. below Ogdens- 
burgh is Louisville, N. Y., where the American steamers stop. Stages 



198 Route 28. LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 

nin from this point to Massena Springs (7 M.), wliich are also reached 

by stage from Brasher Falls (10 M.) or Potsdam Jimction (14 M,), on 

Route 14. (See page 128.) 

A short distance below Gooseneck Island (and an the N. shore) is Chrysler's 
Farm, where an American army of 0,000 men was attacked, Nov. 11, 1813, by a 
British force. The Americans were commanded by tlie imompctent Wilkinson, 
and had descen(U'(l the river from Lake Ontario to attiuk Montreal. After losing 
330 men in the tiglit (Uritish loss, 19G), Wilkinson retreated, i^ave np the advance, 
and retired to winter-fpiarters at French Mills (Fort Covington), where terrible 
losses Avere occasioned by sickness and lack of supplies. Tlie winter-encampment 
cost the Republic -S 800,000, and was followi'<l by an imbecile retreat in which vast 
amounts of stores were destroyed. The collapse i>f this expedition was attributed 
to the failure of Gen. Wade Hampton (of S. Carolina) to bring up his division of 
the army in time. 

The steamer next passes Farran's Point, and stops at Dickinson's Landing 

(N. shore). At this point begin the Long Sault Eapids, wliich are 9 M. 

long, with a fall of over 48 ft., and are divided by a chain of islands into 

the S. Channel (the usual rotite) and the N. Channel (formerly called 

the Lost Channel, from a belief that it led to inevitable destruction). 

The rapids are not continuous, and reaches of level water alternate with 

white and billowy inclines. The passage of a lumber-raft down these 

wild waters affords an exciting spectacle, and calls forth great skill and 

activity on the part of its crew. Boats ascend this incline by means of 

the Cornwall Canal (N. shore), which is 11 M. long. 

In 1603, " in a skiff with a few Indians, Cham]ilain essayed to pass these rapids, 
but all efforts ]iroved vain against the foaming surges, and he was forced to re- 
turn." The first steamV)oat to descend was guided by an Indian (in 1840), and 
Indians are still frequently used as pilots. No fatal accident has ever liajipened 
to steamers in the rapids, as great power is applied to the steering apparatus and 
a strong gang of men manoeuvres it. 

At the foot of the rapids is Cornwall ( Dominion Hotel), a large village 

which was settled by American loyalists and disbanded Hessians after the 

Revolution. It has 2,500 inhabitants and 5 churches, and runs several 

cotton-mills with the rapids' water-power. The Grand Trunk station is 

1 M. N., and 3 lines of steamers stop at the port. A ferry-boat also runs 

to St. Regis, a large Indian village on the S. shore. 

The Sachem Monoco, with 400 warriors, attacked Groton, Mass., in 1676 (see 
Osgood's New England, page 105), and carried away to Canada (among other cap- 
tives) 2 young children of the Tarbell family. Having been brought up in Indian 
ways, in due time they married squaws ; but being radical in their ideas, they were 
forced to leave the tribal village. Going forth with their families, they founded a 
new home on the St. Lawrence. Hither came Father Gordon in the year of the 
Conquest (1760), leading a colony of Christian Mohawks ; and he named the new 
village and the river near it St. Regis, in honor of a canonized Jesuit missionary 
to the poor (bom in Languedoc in 1597). The St. Regis Chief Louis (V)orn at 
Saratoga in 1740, wounded at the Battle of Lake George in 1756, and a combatant 
at the defeats of Braddock and Abercrombie) visited Washington at Cambridge 
in Aug., 1775, and received from him a silver pipe inscribed " G. W." In Jan., 
1776, he led a party of warriors to Cambridge, and was commissioned colonel in 
the Continental army. He rendered valuable service in the Revolution and the 
War of 1812, and was buried at Buffalo, with military honors, in 1814. Oct. 12, 
1812, the Troy militia surprised and captured at St. Regis. a company of British 



LACHINE RAPIDS. Route 28. 199 

regulars, and were soon afterward captured themselves, and exchanged for their 
whilom prisoners. In 1826 an envoy from St. Regis visited Rome, and was pre- 
sented by the Pope with some rich silver plate and jewels for the church (all of 
which were afterwards stolen in N. Y. City) ; while Charles X. of France gave 
him 2 costly paintings (St. Regis preaching, and St. Francis Xavier with St. 
Louis), which are now in the church. In 1848 a Methodist church was estab- 
lished, as the fruit of a revival. Since the War of 1812 the tribe has been divided 
into the British and the American parties. The national boiuidarj--line passes 
through the village, and the Indians receive annuities from both governments (by 
ancestry, and not with regard to location). The reservation includes 22 square 
M., and is mostly held in common, the people living by hunting and fishing, ami 
by making moccasons, baskets, and bead-work. The village is strikingly dirty, 
and abounds in puppies and children (the population is increasing). The Cath- 
olic Church is a venerable structure, with walls 4 ft. thick, and an interior well 
adorned, and containing the royal paintings. The preaching is in Mohawk, and 
the festival of Corpus Christi is observed with great pomp. Ilogansburg (small 
inn) is a. hamlet 2 M. distant, on the St. Regis River, in whose churchyanl 
the Rev. Eleazer Williams was buried, after serving here for several years as an 
Episcopal missionary. There was a mystery as to the fate of the son of Louis 
XVI. of France, and numerous physical and other coincidences indicated that 
Williams was the prince. A book ('' The Lost Prince") was published about him ; 
and great excitement was caused by the popular question, " Have we a Bourbon 
among us ? " 

Below St. Regis both shores are Canadian, and the river expands into 
Lake St. Francis (5J M. ^vide, and 25 M. long), which is dotted with 
islets. On the N. shore is Lancaster; and at the outlet is the sombre 
French village of Coteau du Lac, at the head of 11 M. of rapids (83 ft. 
fall), called the Cotean and the Cedar Rapids and the Cascades. At the 
foot of these rapids is the village of Beauharnois, where vessels enter the 
Beauhamois Canal (S. shore; 11 M. long, with 9 locks). Opposite thi.s 
point is the mouth of the Ottawa River and the Jsle Perrot, where Am- 
herst encamped in 1760, after losing 64 boats and 88 men in the Cedar 
Rapids. Here the steamer enters Lake St. Louis (12 x 5 M.), with St. 
Clair on the N. shore, and the high and peculiar Nuns' Island (an appa- 
nage of the Gray Nunnery at Montreal) on the r., 5 M. below Beauhar- 
nois. Near the Nuns' Island, on the S., is ChateaugaT/, at the mouth of 
the Chateaugay River, where De Salaherry, Seigneur of Chambly, defeat- 
ed, with a small force, the incompetent American Gen. Wade Hampton 
(Oct., 1813), and his fine army. The steamer next reaches Lachine, oppo- 
site which is the populous Indian village of Caugknawaga, inhabited'by 
the orderly and indolent descendants of the Six Nations. 

During the Rebellion of 1837, a body of armed insurgents surrounded the villagers 
at service in the church ; but the chief and his people fell upon the rebels, disarmed 
and bound them, and sent them to Montreal. In the church hangs the celebrated 
bell of Deerfield. This boll was bought (in France) for the church late in tlie 17th 
century, and was in a vessel which was captured by a Massachusetts cruiser. It 
was hung in the Puritan church at Deerfield, Mass. ; and the Indians, knowing 
the fact, attacked the place in 1704, killed 47 of the people, and carried ISO into 
captivity. The victorious crusaders carried the bell on poles through tlie forest 
to the site of Burlington, Vt., where they buried it. The following year priest 
and people went forth and brought the bell in triumph to Caughnawaga, first 
cleansin.L,' it by solemn rites from its Puritan contaminations. 

The *L,achlne Kapids are now entered. "Suddenly a scene of wild confu- 
sion bursts upon the eye ; waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a 



200 Route 29. AUBURN. 

thousand forms by the submerged rocks which they are dashed against ir. tho 
headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm-lashed sea, the chasm 
below Niagara, — all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. Now passing with 
lightning-speed within a few yards of rocks which, did your vessel but touch 
them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the 
ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her head were not 
kept straight with the course of the rapid, — she would be instantly submerged 
and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute i)recipicc of waters ; on every 
side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown high into the air. Ere we 
can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like 
a bird, and a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of 
'below the rapids.'" The steamer now passes under the * Victoria Bridge, and 
moves up to the pier at 
Montreal (page 121). 

29. Syracuse to Rochester. 

By the Auburn Division (OM Road) of the N. Y. Central and H. R. R. R. Sta- 
tions, Syracuse ; Camillus, 8 M. ; Marcellus, 10 ; Skaneateles, 17 ; Auburn, 25; 
Cayuga, 36; Seneca Falls. 41; Waterloo, 44; Geneva, 51 ; Phelps, 59; Cliftoa 
Springs, 63 ; Canandaigua, 74 ; Farmington, 80 ; Pittsford, 94 ; Rochester, 102. 

Tlie train soon enters the rolling limestone highlands of Camillus, and 
passes the stations of Camillus, Fairmount, Marcellus, Halfway, and 
Skaneateles Junction. From the latter a branch track runs 5 M. S. to 
Mottville and Skaneateles [Packiaood House), a brisk village much visited 
in summer, and situated at the foot of the lake of the same name (meaning 
"beautiful squaw"). * Skaneateles Lake is the most picturesque of 
the lakes of Central N. Y., and is 16 M. long, with a width of 1 M. It 
is 860 ft. above the sea, and its S. half is bordered by lofty hills 1,200 ft. 
above the waters, Avhich take a deep-blue tint between these abrupt 
shadowing ridges. The village of Glen Haven is a quiet summer resort 
under the hills near the S. end of the lake, and a small steamer runs 
irregularly along its waters. 8-10 M. S. E. of Skaneateles is the hamlet 
of Amber, at the foot of the romantic and sequestered Otisco Lake, which 
is 4 M. long, and lies in a deep valley bordered by hills 1,700 ft. high. 
The lake is 772 ft. above the sea. 

The main line passes Sennett and then enters Auburn {St. James Hotel, 

$ 3, Genesee St. ; Osborne Home, State St., near the station. Horse-cars 

on E. Genesee St. from Exchange St. to Seward Ave. ; also on State, 

Franklin, and Genesee Sts. Reading-room, Y. M. C. A., 12 North St. 

Amusements at Academy of Music, North St. ). Auburn, the capital of 

Cayuga County, is situated in a fertile farming country, and is on the 

Owasco Outlet, which furnishes water-power for its numerous factories. 

It is one of the handsomest of the minor cities of N. Y., and is famous for 

its public institutions. There are 17,225 inhabitants, with 5 banks, 17 

churches, and 2 daily and 4 weekly papers. 

The Auburn Sta*e Prison was established in 1816, and covers 18 acres of 
land. The main building is 387 ft. long, and is connected with the prison-shops, 
where the convicts work" for contractors. The average number of convicts is 950, 
and in 1870 the expense of the prison was $ 167,000, its earnings amounting to 



OWASCO LAKE. Route 29. 201 

$ 132,000. The premises are near the R. R. station, and are enclosed by a stone 
wall 80 ft. high. A(l.i dning the prison is the Asylum for Insane Convicts, with 
extensive stoue buildings. 

On Genesee St. (tlie principal street of Anbnrn) is the Court House of 
CajT^iga Conuty, a fine stone building surmounted by a dome which is 
surrounded with Ionic columns. Fort St. leads to the pretty cemetery on 
Fort Hill (an ancient Indian moinid), whose most interesting point is the 
grave of Sewai'd. The costly and elegant churches of St. Peter (Episco- 
pal) and St. Mary (Catholic) are at tills end of the city, and the imposing 
First Presbyterian Church is on North St., near the quaint little City 
Hall and the spacious Church of the Holy Family. The Presbyterian 
Theological Seminary is situated in the N. E. part of the city, and occu- 
pies a large stone structure of 16G ft. frontage, N. of which is a new and 
costly library building. This school was founded in 1820, and is of high 
repute among tlie Presbyterians. It has 5 professors, 40 stixdents, and a 
library of 4,000 volumes. The Orphan Asylum is on Wall St., and the 
State has just completed a large armory on State St. South St. is lined 
with fine mansions, among which is the old Seward home (near Genesee St. ). 

William Henry Seward (born at Florida, N. Y. , May 16, 1801) was for nearly 
50 years a resident of Auburn. He graduated at Union College in 1820, and soon 
gained a high rei)utation as a criminal lawyer. Favoring internal iiui)rovements 
and secular education, he was made Gov. of N. Y. in 1838 and 1840, and was a 
U. S. Senator from 1849 to 1861. He opposed the Native- American party, and 
was a chief founder of the Republican party, holding that "the antagonism be- 
tween freedom and slavery is an irrepressible conflict between opposing and en- 
during forces." He would doubtless have been the President of the U. S. in 
1861 - 65, but for the hostility of Horace Greeley, who worked against him in the 
Republican convention. He was Secretary of State throughout the perilous years 
of the Great Rebellion, and by his bold and skilful diplomacy Mexico was deliv- 
ered from French occupation, and threatened foreign intei-ventions in behalf of 
the insurgent American States were averted. In 1865 he was attacked at his 
house by an assassin, who inflicted upon him several terrible wounds. Mr. Seward 
was Secretary of State under President Johnson, and fearlessly sustained the 
Executive's reconstruction policy against the sentiment of the whole country. 
After 1869 he made a long triumphal journey around the world, V)y way of Cali- 
fornia, India, Fvgypt, and France; and in 1872 (Oct. 10) he died, at the Seward 
mansion, in Auburn. 

Owasco Lake is 2| M. S. of Auburn, and is much visited in summer 
(stages from the city). It is possible that the steamboat service between 
Owasco and Moravia will be resumed in the summer of 1876. The lake 
is 758 ft. above the sea, and is bordered by bold bluff's and in part by the 
rich savannas known as the Owasco Flats. The lake is 11 M. long and 
less than 1 M. wide, and extends S. from the hamlet of Owasco (Benning- 
ton House) to the prosperous village of Moravia (Skidmore House), near 
the Mill Brook Falls and the Dry Falls, whose cascade is invisible in 
summer. The rural town of Scipio is on the W. .shore of the lake, and 
is much frequented by summer boarders. The Southern Central R. 
R. lies along the W. shore. From Auburn the train runs W. 10 M. to 
Cayicgaj whence steamers and a railway run S. upon and alongside of 



202 Route 20. CLIFTON SPRINGS. 

Cayuga Lake (see page 207). As the train crosses the loug bridge over 
the outlet the lake is seen on the 1, Station, Soneca Falls {Hoag's Hotel, 
$ 2.50), a factory village at the Falls (51 ft.) of the Seneca River. There 
are here nearly 6,000 inhabitants, 2 papers, 2 banks, 6 churches, and 
large manufactories of steam fire-engines, AvooUens, iron, yeast, and 
piimps. To the N. is Tyre, whose surface is divided between long drift- 
ridges and the low Montezuma Marshes. Seneca Falls is the scene of 
Bayard Taylor's novel of "Hannah Thui-ston"; and here Mrs. Ameli^ 
Bloomer began the so-called reform in feminine apparel which has since 
borne her name. Station, Waterloo ( Toioslcy Jlou^e), a prosperous manu- 
facturing village with 4,000 inhabitants, 7 churches (2 of which are very 
attractive), and 2 banks. The Court House of Seneca County is a hand- 
some building; and Waterloo is further noted for its shawls and farming- 
machinery. 6 M. beyond the train passes along the foot of Seneca Lake, 
and stops at Geneva (see Route 31). Tlie train runs now N. W. to Clif- 
ton Springs {Foster House, $S a day; * Clifton Springs JSanitariu7)i). 
The copious sulphur springs in this vicinity have attained much celebrity 
as remedial agents in cases of bilious and cutaneous disorders. The prin- 
cipal ingredients are the sulphates of lime, magnesia, and soda, the carbo- 
nates of lime and magnesia, and the chlorides of sodium, calcium, and 
magnesium. The waters began to be used in 1806; and since 1850 Clifton 
has become the foremost resort on the Central Railroad. The Sanitarium 
is conducted by its founder. Dr. Henry Foster, on a unique plan. It is 
maintained that spiritual legeneratiou should precede physical rehabilita- 
tion ; and that the restoration of the soul to harmony witli God and a 
placid and restful faith will powerfully aid in the work of restoring the 
body to its normal health. After leaving Clifton Springs the train runs 
W. across Manchester. 

In this town Joe Smith claimed to have found the golden plates, on which, in 
an unknown language, were inscribed the writings of the Hebrew prophet Mor- 
mon. It was asserted that Mormon (under Divine command) had written an 
abridgment of the sacred history and prophecies, the advent of the gospel among 
the Jews, and the final ruin of that nation. Mormon left his records to be con- 
cealed by his sou Moroni, who buried them in " the hill of Cumorah," where 
Smith afterwards found them. 

At Shortsville the train turns S. and soon reaches Canandaigua 
{CoAiandaigua Hotel, large and commodious, $2.50; Webster House), a 
pleasant village of nearly 5,000 inliabitants, with 7 churches, 2 papers, 
a bank, and 2 academies. There are 2 orphan asylums ; and Brighani 
Hall (1 M. W. ) is a private insane asylum for 70 patients. In the old 
court house is the Wood Library and Museum. The Court House of 
Ontario County is situated on a hill near and N. of the R. R., and is 
adorned with an Ionic portico and a graceful dome, on which is a statue 
of Tliemis. In one of the court-rooms are 26 portraits of tlie chief pio- 



CANANDAIGUA. Route 30. 203 

neers of Ontario County. The broad main street of the village runs N. 
by embowered mansions and iine churches, and on the S. it runs to the 
shore of Canandaigua Lake, nearly 1 M. from the Court House. 
Steamers leave the village several times daily and run down the lake 
to Woodville (16 M. ; fare, 75c.), touching at Seneca Point, the seat of the 
summer hotel called the Lake House. Tlie bluffs here are 3 - 400 ft. above 
the water, and overhang pleasant glens. Stages run from Woodville to 
Naples (4 M.), a busy village in a hilly country which is studded with 
vineyards. E. of Naples are Italy and Jerusalem ; and S. W. is Blood's 
Station, on the Erie Railway. Canandaigua Lake is 16 M. long, and 663 
ft. above the sea. There are 2,000 vineyards around its borders. , The S. 
shores are lofty and bold, and many summer visitors are .attracted here 
by the (^uiet beauty of the scenery. 

Canandaigua is the N. terminus of the Northern Central R. R, which runs S. 
to Ehnira (69 M.), Ilarrisburgh (240 M.), and Baltimore (325 M.). 

Running out from Canandaigua to the N. W. the Rochester train passes 
W. Farmington and Victor, which is on the site of the Iroquois village 
of Gannagaro, destroyed by French troops under the Marquis de Nonville. 
The line then traverses Pittsford and the garden-like plains of Brighton, 
and enters 

Rochester (see page 171). 

Canandaigua to Buffalo and Niagara. 

By the Tonawanda, Batavia, and Canandaigua Div. of the N. Y. Central R. R., 
and the Buffalo and Suspension Bridge Div. To Butfalo, S6 M. ; to Niagara, 91 M. 

The Vine runs W. across an open farming country. Stations, E. Bloonifield (| M. 
from the village), W. Bloonifield (1^ M. N. of the village), and Honeoye Falls, a 
brisk factory town on Honeoye Creek. Beyond W. Rush the line crosses the Roches- 
ter Div. of the Erie Railway, the Genesee River, and the Genesee Valley Canal. At 
Caledonia the Attica Div. of the Erie Railway is approached, and it runs parallel 
with the present route to Batavia (17 M.). Station, L.e Roy {Eagle, Hotel), a vil- 
lage on Oatka Creek, and the seat of Ingham University, a school for young ladies, 
with 14 instructors and 186 students. The Staunton Conservatory is a massive 
stone building in wliich are kept numerous cabinets of minerals and S. American 
curiosities, together with a gallery of paintings (mostly by Staunton). Stations, 
Stafford, Batavia (see page 175), E. Pembroke, Richville" (S. of the Tonawanda 
Reservation). Akron, Clarence, and Getzville ; beyond which the train reaches 
Tonawanda, where connections are made for Buffalo or Niagara. 

30. Cayuga Lake and Ithaca. 

Ithaca is reached from New York by the Erie Railway to Owego (236 M.), and 
thence by the Cayuga Div. of the D. L. and W. R. R. (34* M. ). Trains run N. 
E. from Ithaca to Cortland, connecting with a railroad to Syracuse ; and a new 
line runs from Ithaca N. W. across Seneca County to Geneva (40 M.). The N. Y. 
Central R. R. (Old Road) touches Cayuga I^ake on the N. ; and the best route from 
Philadelphia is by the N. Penn., Lehigh Valley, and Ithaca and Athens R. Rs. 

The Cayuga I^ake R. R. runs N. from Ithaca, along the E. shore. Stations, 
Ithaca; Norton's, 6 M. ; Taughkanuock, 11; Lake Ridge, 13; Atwater's, 16; 
King's Ferry, 18 ; Willett's, 22 ; Aurora, 25 ; Levanna, 28 ; Union Springs, 32 ; 
Cayuga, 38. 



204 Route 30. ITHACA. 

Steatmrs leave Ithaca at 7 a. m. and 1 p. m. ; and. retiirninpf, leave Cam^-n, at 8 
and 2. They stop at Norton's, Tanghkannock, Tiumansburgh, Lake Ridge, At- 
water's, Kidder's Ferry, Shelldrake Point, Aurora, Levanua, and Union Springs . 

Ithaca (* Ithaca Hotel; Clinton Home) is a village of nearly 1?,000 in- 
habitants, situated on level lands near the head of Cayuga Lake. The 
streets are abundantly shaded by trees ; and De Witt Park, near the 
centre of the village, is a pleasant square of trees and laAvns. In this 
vicinity (on Tioga St.) is the Cornell Library, in a spacious building, 
wliich also contains the Post-Ofiice, lecture-liall, and De-Witt Guards' 
armory. The library has over 12,000 volumes, and is free, being much 
patronized by the people of Ithaca. The scenery in the vicinity of Ithaca 
is of the highest order of beauty ; and it is said that there are 150 cas- 
cades and Avaterfalls within ten miles. 

The * Ithaca Gorge is less than 1 M. from the village, and is entered 
from the iron bridge at the N. end of Aurora St., by turning to the r. by 
a nistic lodge. Refreshments may be obtained here, and 25c. is paid for 
entering the Gorge. The path has been made for the most part by cut- 
ting and blasting out a way in the side of the cliffs, and iron railings 
protect the more dangerous points. This ravine contaiiis more waterfalls 
than are found in any similar space in the State, and Fall Creek descends 
here 400 ft. in 1 M. Numerous fine view-points may be found by short 
divergences to the r. of the path. The first fall is the celebrated * Ithaca 
Fall, where the creek (150 ft. wide) i)lunges dowai IGO ft. into a deep 
broad basin. A fine view is gained from the Point of Rocks, Avhence the 
path ascends a rock stairway cut in the clifFside to the Plateau, a broad 
moss-covered shelf at the top of the Fall, with pine-trees forming a 
slielter. Promontory Point, 40 ft. above the Plateau, and on the open 
cliff, is next reached, and affords a rich vieAV over the broad valley and 
the village. From this point a workman once fell to the Basin, 200 ft. 
below, and escaped without broken bones. A rock stairway now leads 
up to Cliff Rock, wdiich gives another fine valley-view. The lofty cliffs 
which line the gorge are followed by a path far above the stream, until a 
shady pine grove is passed, and the pleasant Moss Level is reached, over 
the bright Forest Fall. Between the Ithaca and Forest Falls, a singular 
tunnel entrance is seen in the base of the opposite cliffs. This tunnel is 
cut through the solid rock, 200 ft. long, and 15 ft. wide and high, and is 
used to carry water to the mills in Fall Creek village. The work was 
done by young Ezra Cornell, in 1830. The Spray Path leads down from 
Moss Level to the Inferno, at the base of the Forest Fall. Just above the 
Moss Level the path reaches the Foaming Fall, a sheer plunge of 30 ft., 
with lofty cliffs beyond. Rocky Fall (55 ft.) is a little way farther ot), 
and some of its surplus w^ater runs a turbine-wheel which pumps w^ 
water to the top floors of the University bxiildings, on the S. bank. The 



ITHACA. Route 30. 205 

work is accoinplislied by an endless wire cable and a gang of pumps. 
Passing now along the Sylvan Stieam path, the Coliseum is reached, a 
wide curve of the bare clitfs on N. and S., in whose centre is a deep clelt 
through which the resounding Triphammer Falls plunge down uito a 
dark basin. The S. clilf is now ascended, by a spiral wooden staircase of 
68 steps, to the picnic resort called Triphanimer Grove. From this point 
the path descends to the stream at the roaring Flume Falls, just above 
which is the Beebe Dam. Tlie path continues up the goige for \ M. 
farther to the factory village of Free Hollow. Many persons prefer to 
cross the bridge over Flume Falls, and ascend to the University buildings 
by a path up the S. bank. 

Tlie * Cornell University is located on the heights E. of Ithaca, and 400 
ft. above Cayuga Lake. The buildings form the widely detached sides of 
a quadrangle embracing the sharply outlined plateau between the deep 
gorges of the Fall and Cascadilla Creeks, and the estate covers over 200 
acres. McGraw Hall is the most conspicuous of the buildings, and occu- 
pies the centre of the line facing Ithaca. It is built of dark blue stone 
from the University grounds, and is 200 ft. long and 60 ft. widt;, with a 
campanile tower rising from the centre, 120 ft. high. This edifice con- 
tains several lecture-rooms, an anatomical theatre, the museums, and the 
library, Avhile in the central i)art are two halls, each 100 X 56 ft. The 
building is divided into lire-proof sections, and is elegantly finished within. 
-The tower contains the Great Bell of the University (5,000 pounds), and a 
chime of 9 smaller bells, while the * view from the summit is of great 
beauty, including Ithaca and its fair valley and nearly two thirds of 
Cayuga Lake. The N. and S. Buildings are on either side of McGraw 
Hall, and each of them is loo X 55 ft., 4 stones high, and built of Itliaca 
stone. They are occupied for lecture-rooms and dormitories. The Sibley 
College of tlie Meclumic Arts is a large stone building on the N. of the 
quadrangle, and contains a foundry, drav/ing-rooms, mechanical and 
botanical museums, etc. Tlie laboratories and the farm-house and barns 
of the College of Agriculture are on the E., and on the S. is the Sage 
Chapel, in the old English Gothic style. Beyond the chapel is the im- 
posing building of the * Sage College, which is the home of the lady 
students of the University. It is in the Italian Gothic style, with a lofty 
central tower, and is quadrangular in form, with a frontage of 168 ft. 
Henry W. Sage, of Brooklyn, gave $ 150,000 toward this building, which 
was erected in 1872 - 73. Cascadilla Place is a college hall situated above 
the high cliffs over Ithaca. The University Road (admirably built) rvuis 
thence to the main campus (^ M.), crossing the gorge of the Cascadilla 
by a bridge 70 ft. high. In the adjacent glen a pleasure-ground and 
ramble has been made. Cascadilla Place is of blue and white stone, 4 
stories high, and 195 x 100 ft. in size. 



206 Route 30. TAUGHKANXOCK FALLS. 

The Cornell University was founded in 1S65 l)y Ezra Cornell, who endowed it 
with §500,000. New York's share ut the imblic lands given by Congress for the 
benefit of agriculture and the mechanio arls was given to this institution, and 
l)art of it was sold. 400,000 acres in the best States of the West still pertain to 
the Univei-sity, and are valued at over .'? 1,500,000. There are 43 professors and 
assistants, and 600 students, some of whom are from distant countries (Bra:«il, 
J.ipan, Russia, etc.). Tiie library contains 3S- 40,000 volumes, including the 
Anthon Classical Library, the Bopp Uriontal Library, and tlie Goldwin Smith 
Library. The College Museum contains large and valuable collections (the Jcwett 
fossils,' tlie SiUiman Collection, and others). One student annually is admit- 
t;d from each N. Y. Assembly District, free of tuition, and students can defray 
all or a part of their expenses by manual labor in the college-shops or on tlie 
farm. 

Buttermilk Creek is two M. S. of Itliaca (by the Newfield road), and 
flows through a narrow glen whicli is famed for its beauty. The path is 
not good. Visitors with cariiages should send them around to meet them 
on the bridge above the ravine. Passing througli the Antechamber, the 
stream is followed by several cascades and tlnougli pleasant woodland 
scenery, to the * Pulpit Fall, near the tall Pulpit Rock. The Bridal 
Veil Fall is a broad tliin sheet of water descending over broken ledges, 
and the Cornell and Dell Cascades are small but graceful. At the Pulpit 
the S. bank of the ravnie is ascended, and soon afterward tlie path regains 
the level of the creek, where some caution is required. The clift's here 
compress tlie waters into narrow bounds, forming numerous pretty cas- 
cades. Soon after passing Steeple Rock, the upper road is reached at the 
bridge. Barnes's Glen is near the Buttermilk Ravine, and is nearly equal 
to it in beauty, having several lofty cascades. 

Lick Brook is reached by a rural lane diverging to the 1. from the New- 
lield road 3 M. S. of Ithaca. The First and Second Falls are soon passed, 
and the path leads along the S. bank for nearly ^ M. to the great amphi- 
theatre. Here the brook i)luiiges over a clilf 160 ft. liigh, forming a long 
misty cascade. The Enfiold Glen is 6 M. from Ithaca, by a far-viewing 
liill-road. It is entered near the Enfield Hotel, and the path soon leads 
to the foot of the * Fall, which is 160 ft. high. Great variety of water 
and cliff scenery is found in the ravine, and skilful pedestrians often trav- 
erse the lower glen for 2 M. , to the Inlet Valley. The glens of Newfield 
Creek and the West Branch are respectively 7 and 9 M. from Ithaca, and 
are much visited. N. of Ithaca by the E. lake road are McKinney's 
Glens (2| M.), Burdick's Glen (4 M. ; with paths leading to a waterfall 
160 ft. high, interesting in high water), Luce's, Shurger's Glen (6 M. ; the 
upper fall is the finest), and the Ludlowville Falls and Ravine (7 M.). 
Six-Mile Creek, Spencer's Glen, and several other romantic ravines, are 
found near Ithaca. 

The * Taughkannock Falls are 10 M. from Ithaca, and may be 
reached by the lake-steamers, the Ithaca and Geneva R. R. (statioB | M. 
distant), or by a pleasant road leading along the shore of Cayuga Lake (or 



CAYUGA LAKE. Route 30. 207 

by Jacksonville). The Taughkannock Hotel is favorably situated N. of the 
Fall, aud paths and stairways have been made throughout the glens. The 
Taughkannock Fall is 210 ft. in i>er])endicular height, and is ranked as 
the finest of the smaller falls of the Mid<lle States. It is narrow but 
massive, and is the white centre-piece in a stately amphitheatre of tall, 
dark cliffs. The water is gracefully curved by a protrusion of the rocks at 
the brink, and the cliffs rise for 350 ft. from the bottom of the ravine, and 
145 ft. from the top of the fall. "The Fall is, in truth, the Slaubhach 
of Switzerland most absolutely rei)roduced, and of concentrated beauty 
and grandeur." (Dr. G. B. Cheever.) 

The upper ravine affords pleasant rambles, and is provided with cleared 
paths. The banks are high and well wooded, and the stream has several 
cascades. The Upper Fall is broken in outline, and is closely flanked by 
tine cliffs over 100 ft. high. It is reached by following the stream, and 
the return to the hotel is effected by a forest-path on the N. bank. 
During low water the brink of the main fall may be approached, but 
the best view is gained from the bottom of the ravine, which is reached 
by a long stairway. The goi-ge may be descended to the shore of the 
lake, and extensive lake-views are obtained from the groves near the 
hotel. 

Cayuga Lake is about 38 M. long, and comparatively very narrow, ex- 
tending between the rich farming counties of Seneca and Cayuga. As the 
steamer leaves Ithaca a fine retrospect is given of the high rolling uplands 
crowned by tlic buildings of tlie Cornell University. Riiiming N, W. be- 
tween the high bluffs of Lansing and Ulysses, the boat soon reaches the 
landing near Taughkaimock Falls (W. shore); beyond which it passes on 
the W. the cliffs of Covert, seamed with deep ravines. N. W. of the high 
hamlet of Lake Kidge Shelldrake Point is visited, and the tall ridges 
of Ovid are seen on the 1., with Genoa on the r. Aurora {Aurora Hold) 
is a pretty village on the E. shore, the seat of numerous sumnier villas 
and of Wells College (for young ladies). Near this point, on a bold 
promontory between deep ravines, was the fortress and capital f)f the 
powerful Cayuga tribe of the Six Nations. In 1779 Sullivan's army de- 
stroyed 9 towns of the Cayugas along these shores, together with their 
orchards and grain-fields, making a desert of what had once been a land 
of gardens. The boat passes on to Levanna and Union Spi'ings, a popu- 
lous village with several mills located on the water-power of 2 immense 
springs. This place was for some time the home of Louis Napoleon, and 
is the seat of the Rowland School (for girls). A ferry crosses the lake 
to the hamlet of Canoga. The lake now narrows toward the end, and 
the steamer soon reaches Cayuga, on the N. Y. Central E. R. (see 
page 201). 



208 Route 31. WATKINS GLEN. 



31. Seneca Lake and Watkins Glen. 

Watkins is 295 M. from New York, by the Erie and N. Central R. Rs. ; 288 M. 
from Philadelphia, liy the N. Penn., Lehigli Valley, Erie, and N. Central R. Rs. 
(but one change of cars ; at Ehnira), — or by tlie Penn. R. R. to Harrisburg, 
and thence by the N. Central, 300 M. ; from Baltimore, by the N. Central, 278 M. 
The N. end of the lake is touched by the N. Y. Central R. R. (Old Line). 

Steamers make 3 trix>s each way daily between Watkins and Geneva in summer, 
and 2 trips daily the rest of the year. They leave Watkins at G a. m. and 1.45 
and 5.50 p. M. ; and return from. Geneva at 9.55 a. m. and 2.3^ and 5.20 p. m. In 
spring and autunui, from Watkins at 6 a. m. and 2 p. m. ; from Geneva at 9.25 a. m. 
and 3.15 p. m. Meals are served on board. Landings: Watkins; Big Stream? 
N. Hector ; Starkey ; Lodi ; Ovid ; Dresden ; Dey's ; and Geneva. The steam- 
yacht Henrietta leaves Waikins at 9 a. m., 2 and 3.35 p. M. for Glen Excelsior, 
Painted Rocks, and Hector Falls ; and gets back at 10.30, 3.30, and 3.50 (fare, 
25c.). 

Watkins Glen. 

Hotels. — * Lake View Hotel, an elegantly fitted building on the heights over- 
looking the village and lake, and 10 niin. wafk fiom the Glen (S3.50 a day ; S!21 a 
week) ; Glen Mountain House, near the centre of the Glen, §3 a day ; the Glen 
Park and Arlington Houses, near the entrance, S 3 a day ; the Fall Brook and 
Jefferson Houses, in the village, $2-3 a day (oi)en all the year). Carnages to the 
hotels, 25c. Horse-cars from the station to the Glen, 10c. Shops for the sale of 
cheap and pretly mementos are near the Glen, 

Watkins is a rambling village of 2,639 inhabitants, situated on the 
broad plain at the head of Seneca Lake. It is the capital of Schuyler 
Co. , and has some manufactures, but derives its cliief importance from 
being the N. terminus of the Chemung Canal (from the Chemung River 
at Elmira) and the railroad of the Fall Brook Coal Co. This region was 
first explored by Gen. Sullivan's army after the victory over the Mohawks 
at Newtown (Elmira) in 1779, and many soldiers settled here after the Rev- 
olution. It derives its name from Dr. Watkins of London, one of the 
early proprietors of this land (the Watkins and Flint Purchase). 

The view from the ridge of Lake View Avenue is very beautiful, and a 
still more extended * prospect is gained from the observatory on Table 
Mt., 5 min. walk S. of the Lake View Hotel. The fertile and populous 
valley is overlooked, with its villages of Watkins and Havana (the Cook 
Academy looming over the latter), while in the N. Seneca Lake is seen 
outstretched for many leagues. A short path leads down from the ob- 
servatory through Glenwood Cemetery to the Glen Mt. House. 

* Watkins Glen is a deep and nigged ravine ascending between two long 
ranges of low hills on the W. side of the Seneca Lake Valley. Its course 
is nearly E. and W., and it rises 800 ft. in about 3 M. The remarkable 
forms assumed by the riven rocks, the rich foliage of the encircling forest, 
and the cascades on the falling stream, unite to make of this the most 
cliarming of American glens. Since 1863 - 64, when the paths and bridges 
were made, it has steadily gained in reputation, until in 1873 over 60,000 
persons visited its depths. The distance to the end of the path is 2^ M., and 
the bed of the stream may be followed far beyond. Turning in from the 



WATKINS GLEN. Route 31. 209 

village street (| M. from the railroad and steamboat station), tlie tourist 
passes up the Entrance Amphitheatre toward a narrow cleft in the lofty 
precipice. Ascending the Entrance Stairs, the narrow Entrance Cascade 
is seen, falling 60 ft. into a still black pool. From the Sentry Bridge, at 
the head of the stairs, is gained a fine view of the dark cliifs above, while 
the fertile valley is outspread hi the E. Another staircase leads to a railed 
path cut in the cliff-side, over the tranquil depths of Stillwater Gorge, 
fronted by a tall precipice. This section is called Glen Alpha, and the 
MinneJiaha Falls are seen near the end. The stream is crossed to the N. 
and recrossed by stairs to the S. as the path traverses the Labyrinth, — a 
narrow and intricate chasm between lofty cliffs. Before ascending the 
Long Staircase, which here climbs the cliff for 50 ft., iheCavern Cascade 
is seen, falling for 40-50 ft. into a dark basin. A railed path along 
the S. bank enables one to enter the Grotto, a weird dark cavern directly 
behind the cascade, which falls in a broad curve over its roof. Looking 
E. from the stairs, the view known as Whirlicind Gorge is seen. At the 
head of the Long Staircase, the Profile Gorge of Glen Obscura is entered, 
and the path ascends the N. cliffs to Point Look Off. From this point 
Glen Alpha is seen in the E., while W. and above is the Glen Mt. House. 
This hotel (175 guests; $ 3 a day ; $ 18 a week) is on a rocky shelf 100 ft. 
above the bottom of the gorge and 200 ft. above Glen Alpha. The rooms 
and parlors are in the building to the S., which is connected with the 
Swiss chdlet used for a dining-hall by a graceful iron suspension bridge 
over Profile Gorge. (A path leads from this point to Table Mt. and the 
Lake View Hotel in 10 min. ) Just beyond the Glen Mt. House is Capt. 
Hope's * Glen Art Gallery (fee, 25c.), with nearly 100 paintings by Hope, 
" the father of the realistic school of landscape painters." The pictures 
are chiefly of the Glen and of New England scenery ; and the most striking 
of them are the "Rainbow Falls," the "Gem of the Forest," and the 
large historical painting of the Army of the Potomac. 

Passing the Art Gallery, the path continues on the N. cliff, passing the 
Point of Rocks, and overlooking the Mystic Gorge of Glen Obscura. A 
long descent follows to the bridge over the Sylvan Rapids, beyond which 
is * Glen Cathedral, the grandest point in the series. This glen is paved 
with horizontal Silurian strata, and its sides are of rock for a height of 
300 ft., above which the forest falls rapidly to the verge in 200 ft. more 
of altitude. The length is nearly 1,000 ft., in the direction of E. and W. 
Near the centre is the Pool of the Nymphs, a broad rock basin filled with 
crystalline water, called the finest pool in the Glens. In the chancel (W.) 
of the Cathedral is the massive Central Cascade, which plunges (60 ft.) 
into a narrow pool which is black with great depth. The vicinity of this 
dark r.nd rock-bovuid recess is replete with gloomy grandeur. Returning 
to the centre of the N. side of the Cathedral, the Grand Staircase is 

N 



210 Route 31. WATKINS GLEN. 

ascended (in two sections) to the entrance of the Glen of the Pools. The 
retrospect from this point is called the Mammoth Gorge, and midway up 
the staircase there is a good view (from above) of the Central Cascade. 
The glen now entered contains a long line of symmetrical rock basins 
filled with the purest water, and surrounded by fascinating forest scenery. 
The view from the bridge, which is soon crossed (to the S.), is called the 
Matchless Scene, and presents a beautiful commingling of trees and cliffs, 
pools and cascades, rocks, rapids, and shrubbery. The path ascends t(j 
the Giants' Gorge, at the end of which are the * Triple Cascade and 
Rainbow Falls (best seen from a path leading beyond the staircase). 
This is the gem of the water scenery, and is formed by the Glen brook 
falling from Glen Difficulty in 3 leaps (Triple Cascade) ; while at the 
same place a small brook from the S. falls over a projecting ledge, and 
breaks up into a misty sheet of showering drops (Rainbow Falls), The 
staircase is next ascended, and the path is followed along the side of the 
S. cliif to Rainbow Falls, which are passed on the inside by a railed walk 
between the falls and the rock over whose projecting ledges the water 
descends. The passage-way is very wet, but the rainbow seen through 
the falls (in the afternoon) repays for the inconvenience. The Platform 
Stairs are now ascended (fine retrospect), and Glen Difficulty is entered. 
Passing along Shadoiv Gorge on a pleasant path cut in the cliff, and cross- 
ing to the N, by a bridge, the Frowning Cliff is seen in advance, stratified 
like masonry. Another bridge is crossed, and the path winds up the 
Narrow Pass, inwalled by smootli horizontal strata, to the weirdly dark 
head of Glen Difficulty, where the Pluto Falls plunge into a deep black 
basin . A damp and difficult rock stairway leads up alongside the falls 
into Glen Arcadia, the first forward view in which is called the Artist's 
Dream, while the retrospect from the head of the falls is named the 
Spiral Gorge. Glen Arcadia is traversed to the A rcadian Falls (at the 
head), over which is a bridge which affords a retrospect called the Elfin 
Gorge. 

The path proper ends here, but visitors often pass on without difficulty 
into the open glens (more properly, dells) above. Glen Facility is first 
traversed, and then Glen Iloricon is entered (| M. from Pluto Falls). 
Beyond this narrow valley is Glen Elysium., a pleasant glade 50 acres in 
extent, overhung on the N. by a cliff" 400 ft. high. Passing the Omega 
Fall, Glen Omega is reached, beyond which there is nothing but ordinary 
hill scenery. Most visitors turn back from the Pluto Falls, and leave the 
Glen at the Glen Mt. House, by a path diverging from the N, cliffs (it 
being difficult for ladies to descend the Long Staircase in Glen Alpha), 

It is field (Prof. Edmund Burke) that the mt. through which the Glen cuts its 
way was once an island in a lake 70 M. long (from Horseheads to Byron). Wlien 
the waters suddenly subsided ("the seas went down into their hollows"), and 
Seneca Lake assumed its present form, this mt. was attacked in the centre hy 



HAVANA GLEN. Route 31. 211 

torrents, and being relieved of tlie lateral pressure of the lake-waters, it split 
thi'ough the niiddle, and the gorge was widened by rushing waters. The mt. is 
composed of metamorpliic stratified roclt, resting upon a Silurian formation. 
Ferns which are rarely seen N. of the Carolinas and lichens and mosses peculiar 
to Labrador are found here in connection with a great variety of the flora of this 
latitude. 

" In all my travels I liave never met with scenery more beautiful and romantic 
than that embraced in this wonderful Glen ; and the most remarkable thing of 
all is, that so much magniticence and grandeur should be found in a region where 
there are no ranges of mts." (Bayard Taylor.) 

" It is a marvellous rift in the mt., which it seems must have been made by 
some stujiendoas earthquake shock. It suggests Vaucduse in the pellucid clear- 
ness and sparkle of the water It faintly suggests the sombre, magnificent 

Pass of the Finsteriiumz, in the Tyrol, but is infinitely brighter and more varied. 
It suggests Trenton Falls, but is wilder and deeper. Most of all, it suggests 
Basil- Bish, in old Berkshire, — is, indeed, vei-y like it, but is yet more pictu- 
resque and perilous." (Grace Greenwood.) 

Tlie * Havana Glen is the complement of tlie Watkins Glen ; and 
it.s waterfalls are heavier and the rocks are more mural than those 
of the latter. Tliis Glen is 3^ M. from Watkins, and is much admired 
by thousands of travellers. Tourists now visit it by carriage from 
Watkins ($1.50-2), or by railroad (the Glen is 1 M. from the Havana 
station). The Montour House, in Havana village, is large and in- 
expensive. At the Glen are the Glen Grove and Mt. Cliflf Houses, 
small places for refreshments only. The gorge is entered near Portal 
Cascade, and at the little curiosity-shop just beyond, the entrance-fee 
(25c.) is paid. Passing around the Landslide Gap, the Crystal Rapids 
are soon seen in advance; and after crossing a bridge, the * Eagle Cliff 
Falls are reached. This massive and beautiful fall (60 ft. high) is flanked 
by lofty and symmetrical cliffs, which resemble ancient fortress-walls. 
Near the summit of the N. cliff an eagle's eyrie may be seen. A long 
stairway ascends at the E., and ends at the very verge of the falls. At 
the top the tourist enters the Council Chamber, a remarkable hall 100 
X 25 ft. in area, with sides and floor of solid rock, as smooth and rec- 
tangular as masonry. A stairway up the E. wall connects with a path 
leading to the * Curtain Cascade, which is considered the most beautiful 
in the Glen. Passing a bridge over the cascade, and climbing another 
stairway in Hermit's Gorge, a narrow and high-walled" chasm, Jacob's 
Ladder (2 stairways nearly 100 ft. high) is ascended, with the lovely 
Bridal Veil Fall on the E., sweeping broadly over broken ledges. The 
view down Hermit's Gorge (W.) is full of interest. Pilgrim's Grotto is 
beyond the Ladder, and then the path crosses a bridge, winds along the 
cliffside, and passes through a cavern known as the Mountain Tunnel. 
Cavern Gorge is to the N., and beyond it is the Indian Oven. Still 
farther E. the path winds along the cliff, by the Whispering Falls, into 
Chaos Gorge. Near Echo Falls a bridge is crossed, then the Fairies' 
Cascade is seen on the r., and a final ascent leads to Swimmt Gorge and 
Falls. An easy pathway leads back to the entrance, by passing along the 



212 Route 31. SENECA LAKE. 

upper hillside to the Mt. Cliff House (refreshments), but it will be found 
more profitable to descend through the Glen. This Glen is 1^ M. long, 
and ascends 700 ft. On the road to the village is seen the spacious brick 
building erected for the Peoj)le'.s College, located here in 1857, and intended 
to occupy 800 ft. of 4-story buildings (costing $175,000), and to have 19 
professorships. The project failed, and the structure is now occupied by 
the Cook A cademy, a flourishing Baptist school with 2 - 300 students. 

Glen Montour is W. of Havana, and is said to possess much beauty. 
Arrangements are being made to open it for visitors in the summer of 
1876. Glen Excelsior is E. of Watkins, and contains the Empire Fall, 
with 280 ft. of slant height. Peach Orchard and Hector Falls Glens are 
on the E. shore of Seneca Lake, and are often explored by sure-footed 
pedestrians. The Magnetic Spring Sanitarium is in the village of Ha- 
vana, at the Magnetic Springs, whose waters are held to be beneficial in 
chronic, rheumatic, and cutaneous diseases (baths, 50c.; Turkish baths, 
$1 ; board, medical treatment, and baths, $12-16 a week). Excursions 
are made from Watkins to Ithaca, by Cayuta Lake ; and on the N. Central 
R. R. to Crystal Springs, Keuka Lake (23 M.), and Canandaigua Lake 
(47 M.). 

Seneca Lake. 

" On thy fair bosom, silver lake, " How sweet, at Bet of sun, to view 

The wild swan spre.itls his snowy sail, Thy golden mirror, spreading wide, 

And round his hreast ihc ripples break. And see the mist of mantling blue 

As down he bears before the g:ile. Float round the distant mountain's side. 

" On thy fair bosom, wavelcss stream, " At midnisht hour as shines the moon, 

The dipping i)addlc echoes far, A slieet of silver spreads below. 

And flashes in the moonliglit gleam, And swift she cuts, at highest noon. 

And bright reflects the polar star. Light clouds, like wieaths of purest enow. 

" The waves along thy pebbly shore, " On thy fair bosom, silver lake. 

As blows the north-wind, heave their foam, Oh! I could ever sweep the oar, 
And curl around the dashing oar, When early birds at morning wake. 

As late the boatman hies him home. And evening tells us toil is o er.' 

" To Seneca Lake." (Peecival.) 

Seneca Lake is situated in Central New York, and is 35 M. long 
and 1-4 M. wide. It occupies a deep valley between bold shores 
running N. and S., from which cultivated uplands slope away to a height 
of 3 - 700 ft. There are many productive and valuable vineyards on the 
shores, and the general character of the scenery is that of rich and peace- 
ful farm-lands and quiet villages. The lake is 441 ft. above the ocean, 
and 196 ft. above Lake Ontario. There is a considerable commerce on its 
waters, — mostly in the transportation of coal. The depth of the water 
is remarkable, and reaches in some places over 1,000 ft., while 300 ft. is 
found near the shore. This great reservoir is kept full by the operation 
of countless sub-aqueous springs, and but a small portion of the water 
enters from the tributary brooks. The waters are of rare transparency, 
and even in midsummer preserve their coldness, while during the coldest 
weather the lake never freezes completely over. It is held by scientists 



SENECA LAKE. Route 31. 213 

that after the subsidence of the waters Lake Ontario emptied to the S. 
through the Seneca and Cajniga valleys, but the Seneca waters now flow 
N. E., and unite with the Oneida River to form the Oswego River, empty- 
ing into Lake Ontario. 

A century ago these shores were dotted with the villages of the valiant Senecas, 
a warlike tribe of the Six Nations. In August, 1779, General Sullivan led a 
strong force into this region, defeated the Senecas in a pitched battle near El- 
mira, and advanced rapidly through the defiles to the head of the lake. The 
trooiis then swept up the shores, bearing sword and torch through the rich plan- 
tations of the Indians. Dozens of villages were swept from existence ; Kendaia 
was utterly destroyed ; Gotheseuuquean was taken and razed by 400 Continentals, 
and the tribal capital and castle of Ganundesaga (IJ M. W. of Geneva) was anni- 
hilated. " Few of the present generation are aware of the advances wliich the 
Indians, in the wide and beautiful country of the Cayugas and Senecas, had made 
in the march of civilization. They had several towns and many large villages laid 
out with a considerable degree of regularity. They had framed houses, some of 
them well finished, having chimneys, and painted. They had broad and produc- 
tive fields ; and in addition to an abundance of apples, were the enjoyment of the 
pear and the more luscious peach." (Stone.) Said the great Seneca chief, Corn- 
Planter, to Washington (in 1792), " When your army entered the countrj' of the 
Six Nations, we called you Annatakaules, the Town-Destroyer ; and to this day, 
when that name is heard, our women look behind them and turn pale, and our 
childi-eu cling close to the necks of their mothers." 

The steamer passes out from Watkins, with tall highlands on either 
side. The Hector Falls are seen on the r., and also N. Hector Point 
(summer hotel), famous for its June camp-meetings. N. Hector is nearly 
opposite Eddytown (W. shore), which is the seat of a Christian theo- 
logical seminary. 8 M. from Watkins a landing is effected at Big Stream, 
near an unexplored glen of great beauty and extent. Near Lodi Land- 
ing the Mill Creek falls over a cliff 125 ft. high, and passes from a dark 
and romantic ravine into the lake. Long Point is now passed on the 1., 
and the steamer rounds in at Ovid (E. shore), where may be seen the 
spacious and costly buildings of the Willard Lunatic Asylum, which 
occupies also the former buildings of the State Agricultural College, 1 
M. E. of the lake. Dresden (W. shore) was foimded in ]788 by tlie 
heretical New England proselytes of Jemima Wilkinson, and is 5-G M. 
from the large town of Penn Yan, on Keuka Lake. Great vineyards aro 
seen on tlie W., S. of Dresden, producing rich still wines (sweet and dry 
Catawba). The steamer runs N. between the rolling hills of Seneca and 
Fayette, passes Dey's Landing, and stops at Geneva {Franklin House : 
American House, $ 2), a town of 6,571 inhabitaiits, v.ith 9 churches and 2 
weekly papers, and chiefly known for its schools. Hohart College is an 
Episcopal institution wliich was founded in 1825, and has 9 professors and 
60-70 students. It receives annual subsidies from Trinity Church in 
N. Y. City. The buildings are substantial, and front on Main St., a fi)ie 
avenue of villas overlooking the lake. The college has also a grammar 
school and a small Divinity school, but the Geneva Medical College is no 
longer in existence. Trinity Church is on Main St., and has a picturesque 



214 Route 32. THE MIDLAND R. R. 

Saxon tower. St. Peter's Chiirch has costly stained windows, and was 

built as a memorial to Bishop De Lancey. Geneva is pleasantly situated 

wdth respect to Seneca Lake, and its fertile environs are devoted to the 

nursery business. 

Near the village is the ancient fortification known as Fort Hill, which was 
erected by the piehistoric race of "mound-builders," and was covered with large 
forest trees a century ago. U M. N. W. is Old Castle, with an Indian cemetery 
and remains of fortifications." This was the site of the largest Indian village in 
\V. New York, and was only ceded to tlie colonists under a promise (which has not 
been broken) that it sliould not be jjloughed up or otherwise invaded. Many relics 
have been found in tlie vicinity, and the place is still held in honor by the remnant 
of the Six Nations. It was the rliief scat of the brave and skilful Seneca tribe, 
but after they gave in tlieir adhesion to the British during the Revolution, they 
were expelled from their ancient homes. 



32. New York to Oswego. 



By the N. J. Midland and the N. Y. & O. Midland R. R., which was first opened 
to travel in 1873. The station in Jersey City is gained by ferry from tlie foot of 
Cortlandt St. or Desbrosses St., N. Y. Fares, to Montclair, 35c. ; Pompton, §1 ; 
Middletown, §2.05 ; Liberty, § 3.30 ; Sidnev Plains, §5.50 ; Oneida, §6.55 ; Oswego, 
§7.25. 

Stations. — New York ; Jersey City ; Pompton .Tunc. ; Deckertown ; Midd]eto^\Ti, 
66 M. ; Crawford June, 69 ; IBloomingburgh, 76: W'urtsboro', 78 ; Summitville, 
81^ ; Fallsburgh ; Liberty ; Parkesville ; Morseton ; Cadosia Summit ; "Walton 
(branch line to Delhi) ; Sidney Centre ; Sidney Plains, (about) 118 M. from N. Y. ; 
New Berlin June., 120.V (Vminch to New Berlin); Guilford, 127; Oxford, 136^; 
Norwich, 145 ; Earlville", 160 ; Smith's Valley, 164 ; Eaton, 168^ ; Morrisville, 171 ; 
Munnsville, 173 ; Oneida Community, 183 ; Oneida, 186^ ; Durliamville, 188J ; 
North Bay, 197 : W. Vienna, 200 ; Cleveland, 203 ; Constantia, 210^ ; Central 
Square, 218i ; Caughdenoy, 222 ; Pennelville, 225 ; Fulton, 233 ; Battle Island, 
236^ ; Seneca Hill, 238 ; Oswego, 243. 

Montclair Division. 

Leaving Jersey City, and passing Arlington, the marshes of Kearney, and the 
N. borders of Newark, the line runs out by the stations of Montgomery, Bloom- 
field, and Chestnut Hill. Montclair is a large suburban village near Orange 
Mt., and is the terminus of the Newark & Bloonitield R. R. The train now nins 
N. by several rural villages, with First Mt. on the 1., rounds the mt. and crosses 
the Vernon Valley to Little Falls, a factory village on the Passaic River, 4 M. S. 
W. of Paterson and N. of the Second Orange Mt. The Morris & Essex Canal here 
crosses the river in a stone aqueduct. Stations, Singac, Mt. View, Pequannock, 
and Pompton Plains, in a rich and jjopulous valley 6 M. long, with high hills to 
the W. (abounding in iron). The train follows the Pequannock River to the N. 
to Riverdale, Pompton, and Pompton Junction, where the Midland R. R. is mot. 
While stationed at Pompton in 1781, a part of the Jersey line of the Continental 
army revolted. Faithful troops were sent against them and forced the insurgents 
to surrender by training artillery on the camp. The ringleaders were tried by a 
drum-head court-martial, and were " shot to death with musketry." Station, 
Wanaque, with the mines on High Top Mt. on the W., beyond which the line 
approaches the widenings of the Ringwood River. On the r. are the Ramajio 
Mts. ; on the 1. Winbeam Mt. Stations, Ringwood (near Greenwood Lake), and 
Monks. 

Middletown is 66 M. from New York, and is often reached by the 
fast trains on the Erie Railway in preference to the regular line of the 
Midland. The N. J. Midland R. R. passes out from Jersey City through 
the hill-country of New Jersey and by Hackensack and Paterson to the 



WALTON. Route 32. 215 

intersection of the Montclair Division at Pompton Junction. From 
Pompton the R. R. passes N. W. np the Pequannock Valley by the ham- 
lets of Bloomingdale, Charlottehurgh (near Copperas Mt.), and Newfound- 
land, which lies to the S. of the Bear Fort Mts. Beyond Stockholm the 
Hamburgh Mt. is crossed to Ogdensbuvgh (seat of the Passaic Zinc Works) 
in a region of hills ; and then the train reaches Franklin Furnace, in the 
vicinity of profitable zinc-mines. A R. R. runs from Franklin S. W. to 
Newton, and to W^aterloo, on the Morris & Essex R. R. Beyond Ham- 
burgh the train passes Pochung Mt. and the broad Drowned Lands on the 
r., and reaches Decl'^rtoum, a large village in the town of Wantage. This 
region is rich in rural scenery and fertile farms, and lies in the Deep 
Clove, a portion of the Kittatinny Valley. On the W. is the Blue Ridge, 
and on the E. is the Pocliung Mt. The town was settled by Alsatian 
Huguenots and New England Ba]itists about the year 1740 ; and was fre- 
quently desolated by the Indians, especially at the massacre of the Minisink. 
Beyond Deckertown the R. R. enters the State of N. Y. The line passes 3 
small stations in the dairy-towns of Minisink and Wawayanda (with the 
Shawangunk Mts. on the W.), and then reaches Middletorni (see page 
223), at the intersection of the Midland R. R. and the Erie Railway. From 
Crawford Junction, 3 M. N. of Miildletown, a branch R. R. runs N. E. 
10^ M. to Phie Bush, in the uplands of Crawford. The dark wall of the 
Shawangunk Mts. is now approached, an<l is passed by means of a tunnel 
1,470 ft. long. Stations, Blonminghiirgh, and Wurtshoro, a village on 
the Delaware & Hudson Canal, amidst pretty scenery. From SummUvillf. 
station a branch R. R. runs 8 M. N. E. to Ellenville, a factory and canal 
village in the mt. town of Wawarsing. llie train now enters Fallsburgh 
town, passing the hamlets of Sandburgh (near several pretty cascades) 
and Centreville. Fallsburgh is at the falls of the Neversink River, and is 
N. of Monticello, on the Erie R. R. (branch line). The line now crosses 
the mountainous and lake-strewn town of Liberty (3 stations), with Wal- 
nut Mt. on the I. Liberty Falls is 100 M. from N. Y., and stands in a 
glen 1,467 ft. above the sea. The rugged forest-towns of Rockland and 
Colchester are now traversed and the Popacton Valley is crossed. Be- 
yond Cadosia Summit the train reaches Walton, which " stands on a 
knee of the Delaware with mts. folding it in like the cup of a water-lily. 
Walton looks hardly American to me. Its river and its mts. are like the 
Rhine, and its fields have an old-country look." (N. P. Willis.) Port 
Deposit is 20 M. S. W., down the W. Branch Valley; and the Delhi 
Branch R. R. runs N. E. up the valley to Hamden and Delhi, the capital 
of Delaware County, finely situated by the river- side. 

In 1845 occurred the anti-rent insurrection in this county, when the rustics or- 
ganized in hands, disguised in Indian roRtumes, and attempted to abrogate the 
semi-feudal tenures of the land proprietors. The civil authorities were powerless, 
and the Governor placed the district under martial law, garrisoned Delhi, and 



216 Route 32. CLINTON. 

patrolled the hills. After 4 months of military occupation, the insurrection was 
quelled. S. of Delhi is the lofty forest town of Andes, which is traversed by a 
daily stage line from Delhi to Dean's Corners (see page 81). 

Beyond Walton tlie main line runs N. W, liy 3 rural stations to Sidney 
Plains, where it intersects the Albany and Susquehanna R. R. (see Route 
4(>). From the next station, E. Guilford, a branch R. R. diverges to the 
N. up the Unadilla Valley by Rockdale, Mt. Upton, and Homesville, to 
Neio Berlin (Central Hotel). Stations, Guilford, and Oxford, a pros- 
perous manufacturing village, where the line reaches the Chenango River. • 
The train noAV runs parallel with the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western 
R, R. to Norwich, crossing the Lyon Brook iron trestle-bridge, which is 
800 ft. long and 162 ft. high. Norwich {Eagle Hotel) is a thriving place, 
with piano, hanmier, and carriage factories, and a population of 4,500. It 
is the capital of Chenango County, and has a handsome stone Court 
House, in Corinthian architecture. 

The Auburn Branch of the Midland R. R. extends from Norwich to Scipio 
Centre, S4 M. It crosses tlie farming and dairy towns of Plymouth, SmjTna, 
Otselic, Georgetown, De Ruyter, Cuyler, Tnixton (near the picturesque Labrador 
Pond and Tinker's Falls), Homer, and Cortland. From Freeville, an intersection 
of several railroads, the line is under construction across the lake towns of Lan- 
simr, Genoa, Venice, and S('i])io, to Auburn. The Utica Division of the D., L. & 
W.'R. R. crosses the Midland road near Norwich, and runs from the junction to 
Utica in 46 M. N. E,, or to Binghamton in 95 M. S. W. 

The Utica and Rome. Divisions. 

Tlie Midland train passes N. fnnn Norwich by Smyrna to Earlville, whence the 
Syracuse and Chenango Valley R. R. diverges to the N. W. From the next sta- 
tion, SmUh's Valley, a branch R. R. runs to the N. E., reaching Utica in 31 M. 
and Rome in 35 M. station, Hamilton, an academie village, with 5 churches, 
the Hamilton Female Hominnry, and tlie MajU-.on I'liiverdti/, a school and theo- 
logical dei )artment of the Baptist Church , with 1 1 professors, and about 1 50 students. 
It'^vas founded in 184G, and has an Alunnii Hall and JIusenm. Stations, Pecksport, 
Bouckville, Solsville, Oriskanv Falls. Dcansvillc, Franklin (iron-works), and then 
Clinton, an academic village of 2,000 inhabitants, in the fruit-growing town of 
Kirldand (named after an early missionary to the (Jneidas). Hamilton College 
was founded as an academy by Rev. .Samuel Kirkland, in 17P3, and became a col- 
lege in 1S12. It is situated in a jileasant ])ark of 15 acres, overlooking the Oris- 
kany VallHV, and has several plain stone l)aildings, — Dexter Hall (N.), Kirkland 
Hall (middle), Hamilton Hall (8.), the Chapel, the Smith Library (with about 
14,000 volumes), and tlie Litehfiold Observatory, containing a large equatorial 
telescope, by which 8 new asteroids have been discovered. Over the library is a 
Memorial Hall, and also a small portrait gallery. There are 11 professors and 
160-180 students (1,300 alumni), but the college is not self-supporting, OAvmg to 
a large number of free scholarships, and is somewhat dependent on its rich en- 
dowments and liberal State aid. A law-school is attach.ed to the mstitution. 
The Clinfnn Liberal Institute was founded bv the Universalists in 1S32, and has 2 
large buildings, for 150 students (both sexes). The Houghton Female Seminary 
is also at this place, and has fmely ornamented grounds. There is an attractive view 
of the village and its great schools from the neighboring hill called "the Knob." 
A R. R. runs N. W. 13 M. from Chnton across the town of Westmoreland to the 
city of Rome (see page 167), and the Utica Division runs N. E. 9 M. to Utica (see 
page 166). 

The Midland train (main line) passes Smith's Valley 19 M. N. of Nor- 
wich, and runs N. by Eaton, Morrisville (a small hamlet, capital of Madi- 
son County), Munnsville, Stockbridge, and .Oneida Community. 



ONEIDA LAKE. Route 32. 217 

The Community is 3 M. S. of Oneida, and consists of about 300 men and women 
residing in large buildings on a fruitiul farm. All property is held in common, 
and considerable revenues are derived from fruit-raising and the manufaclure of 
traps, hats, and sewing-silk. The Free-Love principles are here inculcated, and 
the relations of the sexes are governed (not by law nor by license, but) by so-called 
" inspiration." The Community was founded by John H. Noyes in 1847, and has 
a branch at Wallingford, Conn. 

The next station is Oneida, where the Midhxnd line passes under the 
N. Y, Central R. R. (see page 167). The distance between the Midland 
and the Central stations is about ^ M. (omnibus, 10c.). Stations, Dur- 
hamville, State Bridge, and North Bay, beyond which the line follows the 
N. shore of Oneida Lake for about 15 M. The nearer shore is marshy 
and low, but there is a pleasant view to the S. across the broad waters to 
the blue highlands of Onondaga County. Oneida Lake is 19 M. long and 
6 M. wide, covering 57,000 acres, and is 141^ ft. above Lake Ontario. The 
level lands of the lacustrine counties are very fertile, and the chief agri- 
cultural industries are dairying and stock-raising. Clevelaiul and Con- 
stantia are the next stations on the lake. 

The former is the largest village on the lake ; and Constantia is a pleasant ham- 
let, 4 M. from which is Frenchman's Island, a pretty circular islet containing 25 
acres of primitive forest. Here lived Devitzy and his wife, who was one of 
the loftiest patrician dames of France. They had eloped, and were pursued by 
paternal anger, so about the year 1800 they fled to this remote i)lace, where they 
lived in a log-cabin 7 summers, surrounded by flowers and books and Old-World 
luxuries. After 7 years the pursuing but long ago relenting father found them 
and led them home, where the great family estates and honors were settled on 
them. De Tocqueville penetrated tlie wildemcss, during his visit to America, in 
order to visit this romantic isle, whose former denizens he had known. French- 
man's Island is a favorite point for picnic parties, sailing from tlie lake villages. 

Beyond Constantia the train enters the marshes of W. Monroe, and 
passes to Central Square, where it intersects the Syracuse Northern R. R., 
17 M. from Syracuse. The lowlands of Hastings and Schroeppel are now 
crossed to Fulton {Leiais House), at the Falls on Oswego River, with 
3,507 inhabitants, 6 churches, and 2 Aveekly papers. On the opposite 
shore is the hamlet of Oswego Falls. The line now follows the Oswego 
River by Battle Island (scene of a sharp action with the French and In- 
dians, in 1756), to Seneca Hill and 

Oswego. 

Hotels. — * Doolittle House, 5-600 gviests, at the Deep Rock Spring ; * Reve- 
nue House, First St., corner of Utica St., $2.50-3 a day; Hamilton House, $2- 
2.50; Ontario House. Readinn rooms at the City Librarv, Washington Square; 
and at the Y. M. C. A. rooms, 200 W. 1st St. Post-Office, corner of Oneida and W. 1st 
Sts. Horse-cars traverse First St. and other thoroughfares. Stages run thrice 
daily to Uaionville. Steamers of the Canadian Navigation Co. leave every evening 
for Charlotte ;uhI Montreal, and the Northern Transportati(m Co.'s propellers (.see 
page 1'.17) leave every mtu-ning lor tlie West. Railroads. — The N. Y. & O. 
Midland (station on Wasliington Square) to N. Y. in 24:i M. ; tlie Rome, W. & O. 
R. R. to Richland and Rome (71 M.) ; the O.svvego and Syracuse Div. o!' the D., 
L. & W. R. R. (station neir the Revenue House) to Syracuse (35 M.); and the 
Lake Ontario Shore R. R. to Lcwiston (150 M.), couuectuig for Niagara. 
10 



218 Route 32. OSWEGO. 

Oswego is a thriving commercial city on the S. shore of Lake Ontario, 
situated on the low l)luffs at the moutli of the Oswego River, which here 
discharges the waters of Oneida, Onondaga, Cayuga, and Seneca Lakes. 
The harbor is broad and capacious, and is sheltered by long and costly 
piers. Vast quantities of grain and lumber are received here, and are 
sent away by rail or on the canal. Tliere are 11 elevators, with a storage 
capacity of over 2,000,000 bushels, and 14 flour-mills, with 73 run of 
stone and a capacity of 6,000 barrels of flour daily. Kingsford's Starch 
Factory employs 600 men, and makes 33 tons daily, and there are other < 
manufactories at the falls on the river. The city has 22,455 inhabitants, 
with 16 churches, 8 banks, and 2 daily papers. 

Oswego is handsomely laid out, witli streets 100 ft. wide crossing each 
otlier at right angles. The river divides it into 2 nearly equal parts, which 
are joined by 2 bridges (from the one at Bridge St. is gained a pleasant 
view of the harbor). Near Washington Square, on the E. side, are the 
coimty buildings, the venerable Church of the Evangelists, the armory of 
the 48th Regiment, and the City Library (containijig 12,000 volumes, a 
portrait of Gerrit Smith, — its founder, — and a curious slab of flexible 
marble). Christ Church is on Cayuga St., and the spacious Catholic 
Church is on Mohawk St. Fort Ontario is a strong work fronting the 
lake and commanding the harlior from the E. shore. It is garrisoned by 
a small force, and is open to visitors. First St. W. (W. side of the river) 
is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and passes the fine stone buildings 
of the Post-Office and the City Hall. The Normal and Training School 
occupies a spacious structure on the corner of Seneca and Sixth Sts., and 
is widely known for its efficiency. The DcciJ Rock Sjiriuf/ was discovered 
near First St. W. in 1867, and is said to have much medicinal virtue. Each 
gallon contains 318 grains of chloride of sodium, 149 of chloride of potas- 
sium, 1^ of cldoride of magnesium, and 72 grains of silica. The new and 
elegant Doolittle House has been built over it to acconmiodate invalid 
visitors. The heights on either side of the city and fronting the lake on 
the W. are occupied by pleasant villas and summer residences. 

The Lake Ontario Shore R. R. runs S. W. from Oswego through the lake towns, 
passing several small hamlets of Oswego and Wayne Counties. At Sterling (IG M. 
from Oswego), it crosses the S. Central R. R. ; and at Sodus (41 M.), the Sodus 
Bay and Southern R. R. is intersected. The line is now coiiii)leled by Ontario to 
Lewiston, on the Niagara River. 

Oswego (an Indian Avord. meaning Rapid Water) was first visited and fortified 
by the Count de Frontcnac (in 109G), while on his way to attack the Onondagas. 
In 1722 William Burnett, Gov. of N. Y. (son of Bishop Burnett, and godson of 
Priiu'e William of Orange), erected a permanent fort at Oswego, and in 1755 Gov. 
Shirley, of Mass., ;idvanced hither across the vast forest with 1,500 men, and built 
2 large forts, where he left 700 men in garrison. In Aug., 1756, the Marquis de 
Montcalm invested the works with 5,C00 men (French and Indians), and after a 
short siege and a bombardment from 32 heavy guns, the forts were surrendered 
with 1,400 soldiers, 134 pieces of artdlery, "and a fleet of vessels. Moutcahn 



THE ERIE RAILWAY. Route 33. 219 

destroyed the works, and carried his captives and spoils to Montreal. New fortifi- 
cations were erected by the f^nglish in 1757-59 ; and here St. Leger gathered his 
motley aniiy of Tories and Indians, previous to tlie siege of Fort Htanwix. Here, 
also, his panic-stricken forces fled after the failure of that cami)aign. Oswego 
was held by the royal troops until 1796, when it passed into the jurisdiction of 
the U. S. On the morning of. May 5, 1814, Sir James Yeo's British fleet appeared 
off the place and bumbardcd it for 3 hours. Fort Ontario kept vip a steady fire, 
but the enemy landed 1,200 men and the garrison retreated slowly up the river. 
The British destroyed the barracks and spiked the fortress-cannon, but failed to 
reach the great deposit of naval stores at the Falls, and embarked the next day, 
having lost 235 men (American loss, 09). The little hamlet founded at Oswego iu 
1796 by Neil McMulIin was devoted to building vessels ; and after the introduc- 
tion of steam-navigation on Lake Ontario in 1816, the place grew rapidly in com- 
merce and manufactures. It is now second only to Rochester in the amount of 
flour produced. 

33. New York to Elmira, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls. 

The Erie Railioay. 

Tliis great trunk-line to the West traverses a country- which is more picturesque 
and romantic; than that along tlie line of the N. Y. Oentral R. R., thougli the lat- 
ter line derives an advantage from passing through the handsome cities of Central 
N. Y. Pullman parlor and sleeping cars are attaclied to the through <;ars on the 
Erie : and there are comfortable arrangements for meals along the route. The 
Day-Express train leaves N. Y. in the morning, and reaches Bufl'alo in 16 hrs. ; 
Cleveland in 23^ hrs, ; Cincinnati in 34 hrs. ; Chicago in 36 hrs. The Pacific Ex- 
jtress leaves early in the evening, and reaches Buffalo about noon the next day. 

Fares. — New York to Suffcrn, SI ; to Port Jervis, §2.70; to Cochecton, 
$4 ; to Hancock, $5 ; to Binghamton, ^6.15 ; to Waverly, ••?6.95 ; io Elmira, *7.25 : 
to Hornellsville, $8.50 ; to Buffalo or Niagara, $9.25 ; to Salamanca or Dunkirk, 
810.40; to Erie, $11.75; to Toronto, $12.25; to Cleveland, $14.25; to De- 
troit, $16.25; to Cincinnati, $20; to Chicago, $22; to St. Louis, $27; to 
Memphis, $38.25 ; to Mobile, $45 ; to New Orleans, $50 ; to Galveston, $68.75 ; 
to St Paul, $.37.25 ; to Omaha, $39.50; to Denver, $79.90 ; to Salt I^ake City, 
$ 119..50 ; to San Frtincisco, $ 1.39.50 ; to Portland, Or., §109.50 or $179.50. 

Stations. — New York; Jersey City; Rutherfurd Park, 9 M. ; Pas.saic, 11 ; 
Paterson, 16 ; Ridgewood, 21 ; Hohokus, 23 ; Allendale, 25 ; Ramsey's, 27 ; Sufferu, 
31 ; Ramapo, 33 ; Sloatsburgh, 35 ;' Southfield's, 41 ; Newbui-gh June, 41 (branch 
to Newburgh, 63); Turner's. 47; Monroe, 49; Oxford, 51; Greycourt, 53; 
Goshen, 59 ; Hampton. 63 ; Middletown, 66 ; Howell's, 70 ; Otisville, 75 ; Port 
Jervis, 87 ; Shohola, 106 ; Lackawaxen, 110 ; Pine Grove, 116 ; Narrowsburgh, 
122 ; Cochecton, 130 ; Calicoon, 135 ; Rock Run, 138 ; Basket, 145^ ; Lordville, 
152^; Hancock, 163 ; Dickinson's, 169 ; Hale's Eddv, 17U; Deposit, 176 ; Sum- 
mit, 183 ; Susquehanna, 192 ; Great Bend, 200 ; Kirkwood, 205 ; Binghamton, 214 ; 
Hooper. 220 ; Union, 223 ; Campvillc, 229 ; Oswego, 236 ; Tioga, 241 ; Smith boro', 
246; Barton, 248; Waverly, 255; Chemung, 260; Wellsburg, 266; Elmira, 275; 
Big Flats, 283 ; Coming, 290 (branch line to Rochester, 385) ; Painted Post, 292 ; 
Addison, 3)1 ; Rathboneville, 306 ; Cameron, 314 ; Adrian, 322 ; Canisteo, 327 ; 
Hornellsville, 331 ; Alfred, 340 ; Andover, 349 ; Genesee, 357 ; Philliiisville, 
365 ; Belvidere, 369 ; Friendship, 373 ; Cuba, 3S2 : Olean, 394 ; Allegany, 398 ; 
Carrollton, 407 ; Great Valley, 410 ; Salamanca, 413 ; Little Valley, 421 ; Cattarau- 
gus, 428 ; Dayton, 437 ; Pcrrysburgh, 440 ; Smith's Mills, 447 ; Forestville, 451 ; 
Dunkirk, 4-59. Btiffalo Division. Hornellsville, 331 ; Canaseraga, 343 ; Nunda, 
355 ; Portage, 361 ; Castile, 365 ; Gainesville, 367 ; Warsaw, 374 ; Linden, 385 ; 
Attica, 391 ; Darien, 397 ; Alden. 403 ; Lancaster, 412 ; Buffalo, 422 ; Suspension 
Bridge, 443 ; Cleveland, 605 ; Chicago, 961. 

Northern R. R. of N. J. 

New York to Nyack, 29 M. ; time, 1^-2 hrs. Soon after leaving Jersey City 
the line turns to the N. between the heights of Hoboken and the broad marsilies 
of the Hackensack River. The ensuing stations are at suburban villages which 
are more or less dependent on New York. New Durham is W. of Weehawken on 



220 Route 33. PATERSON. 

the Hudson ; Granton is W. of Bull's Ferry ; Ridgefield Park has a large summer 
hotel ; and Leonia is N. W. of Fort Lee. The line thence ascends the fertile val- 
ley by Van Brunt's, and Englewood, whicli is near the * Palisade Mountain House, 
opposite the N. end of Manhattan Island. Stations, Highland, Tenafly (near 
Highwood Park, on the Palisades opposite Yonkers), Cresskill, Closter (near Old 
Hook, in the Hackensack Valley), and Norwood, beyond which it enters New 
York and passes Tappan, and runs N. along the Hudson shore to Piermont and 
Nyack (see page 65). 

The Hackenmch Branch. 

Stations. — New York ; Jersey City ; Erie June, 8 ; Carlstadt. 9 ; Woodridge, 10 ; 
Lodi June, 12 ; Hackensack, 13 ; Cherry Hill, 15 ; River Edge, 17 ; Oradell, 18 ; 
Kinderkamack, 20 ; Westwood, 21 ; Hillsdale, 22 ; Pascack, 26 ; Park Ridge, 24 ; 
Nanuet, 28 ; vSpring Valley, 30 ; Suffern, 37. 

After leaving Jersey City the train passes out through N. Bergen and crosses 
the Hackensack meadows and river to Erie Junction, Avhere it diverges to the N. 
E. through the German village of Carlstadt. Stations, Woodridge, Corona, Lodi 
Junction (whence a branch R. R. runs to Lodi), and Hackensack (Hackensack 
i/oitse), an ancient village with 9 churches and the buildings of Bergen Countj'. 
It is at the intersection of the ]iresent sub-route with the Midland R. R. ; and is 
in the fertile and wealthy Hackensack Valley (nearly midway between Fort Lee 
and Paterson). The village was partially burnt by the Hessians in 1780 ; and 
was the scene of several sharp skii-mishes. The train now ascends the valley, 
with the Palisade highlands on the r., traverses the level dairy-town of Washing- 
ton, enters the State of N. Y., and reaches Nanuet, on the Piermont Branch R. R., 
whence a R. R. is to be built N, to New City. From Nanuet the train runs W. 
9 M. to Siiffern (see page 221). 

Passengers leave the foot of Chambers or of 23cl St., and cross to the 
Erie terminal station in Jersey City, whence the train runs out through 
the Bergen tunnel, piercing for ^ M. the rocky ledges of Bergen Heights. 
Passing over the flat marshes of Secaiicus, with Snake Hill on the 1., 
the line crosses the Hackensack River and a wide moorland, with the 
Boonton Branch R. R. on the W., and the Hackensack Branch diverging 
on the r. Beyond the low heights of Rutherfurd Park ( Union Hotel), 
the Passaic River is crossed to Passaic ( Pas^arc Hotel), the ancient village 
of Acquackanonck, bought by the Dutch from the Sachem Captahem. 
This village has 9 churches, and large print-works near the river. The 
train now reaches Paterson {Hamilton House, $ 3 a day; Franklin House, 
on Main St.), the capital of Pas.saic County, and a prosperous city of 
33,579 inhabitants. It was founded in 1791 by Alexander Hamilton's 
efforts, and was designed for '' a great emporium of manufactures." In so 
far has this scheme succeeded that Paterson is now one of the first manufac- 
turing cities in New Jersey, There are many cotton-mills on the water- 
power afforded by the Passaic Falls; also the Passaic Flax-Works, im- 
mense locomotive-works, the mills of the American Velvet Company, and 
the largest silk-factory in the U. S. (established in 1840), employing 800 
hands, and making $ 2,000,000 worth of silk yearly. Tlie city has 2 daily 
papers, 2 banks, and 34 churches (including 4 of Hollanders). The 
streets are broad and well laid out, and 2 bridges cross to the suburb 
of Manchester. The * Passaic Falls are wnthin the city limits, and are 
surrounded by a small and rugged park. The river here falls perpendic- 



THE RAMAPO VALLEY. Route 33. 221 

wlarly about 50 ft. into a deej) crevice between palisades of basalt, and 
affords a fine sight at time of high water. Below the falls (which are 
best seen from the bridge) the river bends sharply, and ilows through a 
dark gorge between high rectilinear basaltic walls. On a cliif in this 
vicinity is a handsome monument in honor of the soldiers of Paterson in 
the Secession War ; and also a belvidere tower, which overlooks tlie city 
and much of Passaic County. Near the latter are the high reservoirs of 
the water-works. Paterson is a station on the Midland, the Patei'son and 
Newark (11 M.), and the Del., Lack, and Western E,. Rs.; also on the 
Morris and Essex Canal. 

The Erie train now runs N. through a fertile coimtry by several rural 
handets, approaches the Ramapo Mts. on the W., enters the State of 
N. Y., and reaches Suffern. A branch line runs hence 18 M. S. E. to 
Sparkill and Piermont (see page 65), from which a spur is to run N. (from 
Spring Valley) to Grassy Point, on the Hudson. The next station on the 
main line is Ramapo ( Terrace House), Avhence may be visited the beautiful 
scenery of the Ramapo Valley. From this point the Torn Mt. is ascended, 
revealing a view extending over N. Y. harbor. Washington visited this 
peak in order to observe the British camps and fleets about N. Y. 2 M. 
W. is the lofty Potague Lake, commanding a view of the Ramapo Gap 
and Valley. The AJt. Lake House is a summer hotel at ,MahAvah. 1 M. 
beyond the village the Sterling Mt. R. R. diverges to the N. W., and runs 
7g M. through the Bellvale Mts. to Lakeville, on Sterling Pond and near 
Greenwood Lake. Beyond Sloatsburgh (on the r.) are seen the ivy-clad 
ruins of the Augusta Iron-Works, where the chain was forged which was 
stretched aci-oss tliu Hmlsou in 177<:>. The train continues up the Ramapo 
Valley to Turner's, wliich is situated in one of the fairest parts of the 
district. It has achieved considerable success as a summer resort, the 
surrounding views being pleasant, and the country abounding in line 
roads. There are several higldand lakes (Truxedo, Mount Basha, Round, 
etc.; with fine pickerel-fishing) in the vicinity; and a road leads 14 M. 
N. E., througli a wild forest district, to West Point (see page 75). The 
high hill near the station overlooks the Ramapo Gap, the Hudson River, 
and Newburgh. The elegant summer hotel and railway dining-room at 
Turner's (of brick ; 4 stories higli and 400 ft. long) was destroyed by fire, 
Dec. 26, 1873. 

The Newburgh Branch R. R. trains run from Turner's to Newburgh in 
18-20 M., passing Highland Mills (Cromwell's Lake House, 1,200 ft. 
above the Hudson), and then traversing the Schunemunk Mts. through 
Woodbury Clove. Beyond Cornwall (6-7 M. W. of Cornwall-on-Hudson) 
the line meets the Greycourt Branch at Vail's Gate, whence it runs through 
the arable hills of New Windsor to Newburgh (see page 76). The Erie 
train on the main line passes from Turner's to Monroe ( Wabeck House), a 



222 RoiUeSS. GREENWOOD LAKE. 

pleasant liigliland hamlet in the lake country of Orange County. Near 
this station is the Seven Springs Mountain House, accommodating 400 
guests (at $3 a day) in spacious stone buildmgs. 

Greenwood Lake (* Windermere House, with spacious grounds ; 
* Brandon House, S 3 a day, § 15 a week) Ls reached by stages from Mon- 
roe after a ride of 10 M. down a pleasant valley (2 hours). It is also 
visited from other adjacent stations. The Traphagen House is a new 
and elegant summer-hotel, pleasantly located on the E. arm of thef 
like. The steamers make serai-daily trips. The lake is 10 M. long 
(partly artificial) and 1 M. wide, and has been called " a miniature Lake 
George," being inwalled by rugged mts. ITie water is very clear, and 
contains many fish. Wawayondah, Macopin, Sterling, and other lakelets 
are visited hence, and a pleasant road leads to Warwick in 7 M., passing 
over the mts. and overlooking the Warwick Woodlands. 

From Greycourt station a branch R. R. rmis N. E. to Xewburgh in 
IS M. ; and the Warwick Branch runs S. W. to the pleasant village of 
Warwick. The train now traverses the rich dairy-lands of Orange County, 
and crossing the fertile Greycourt Meadows (with Sugar-Loaf Mt. visible), 
the hamlet of Chester is passed, and the line reaches Goshen, a pretty 
village of 2,205 inhabitants, with 4 churches and several classical schools. 
Tliere is a monument in the public square in memory of the men of 
Goshen who fell in battle at Lackawaxen, in 1779. It is a semi-capital 
of Orange County, the great dairy of N. Y. City ; and Goshen butter is in 
high repute. Besides great quantities of butter, cheese, and condensed 
milk, this district supplies the metropolis with many small fruits and 
vegetables. A railroad runs S. W. from Goshen 12 M. to Pine Island, 
in the Drowned Lands of Warwick, W. of the Bellvale Mts. 

Tlie Walkill Valley Branch extends from Goshen to Kingston in 43 M. The line 
nms X. E. to the raaiiufacturing villages of Montgomery and Walden, E. of the Com- 
fat Hills. The Shawangunk Mts. are seen on the 1. as the train traverses the towns 
of Shawangunk and Gardiner, and the pretty village of New Paltz is next seen, 
on the widening intervales of the Walkill. 9 M. E. is New Paltz Landing, on the 
Hudson ; and to the W. is seen Paltz Point, one of the chief Shawangunk peaks. 

Lake Molionk (* Mountain House, 125 guests ; $14-18 a week) is 6 M. from 
New Paltz, and is un one of the highest ridges of the Shawangunk Mts., 1,243 ft. 
above the Hudson River. It is J M. long, very deep, and filled with fish, while 
its shores aio formed by great piles of quartz rock, and Paltz Point looms boldly 
over the quiet waters. " Sky-Top is a peak on tlie N., 300 ft. higher than the lake, 
and commanding a fine *view, including tiie populous Walkill and Esopus Valleys, 
the ridges of the Shawangunk, the Hudson Highlands, and the Berkshire Hills. 
Eagle Rock, Sunset Rock, the Balance Rock, and the Labyiinth -re favorite re- 
sorts near the hike. 5i M. from Lake Mohonk are the High Falls, on the 
Ronduut Creek. The Lake is reached by stages connecting with the day-boats 
from N. Y. at Poughkeepsie (14^ M.), and by semi-daily stages from the Erie Rail- 
way trains at New Paltz. N. Y. to Lake Mohonk, 5| hrs. (by Erie line). - 

The main line beyond Goshen crosses the town of Wawayanda (in the 
Walkill Valley), which sends 27,000 gallons of milk to N. Y. daily 
(station, Hampton), and intersects the N. Y. and 0. Midland R. R. at 



POPcT JERVTS. Route 33. 223 

MiddletOM^n {Grand Central ; Ogden House). This is a brisk manufac- 
turing place, with 6,049 inhabitants, 8 churches, 3 banks, 5 newspapers, 
and a printing-office that supplies "patent outsides " to 60 ditFerent niral 
papers. There is an active fire department, a system of gi'aded schools, 
and water-works connected with Monhagan Lake. W. of the village is 
the new State Homoeopathic Insane Asylum. The train enters the hills 
beyond Howell's station, and at Otisville rapidly ascends the Shawangunk 
Mts. It was at first thought best to tunnel through this barrier-ridge, 
but the present system of planes was finally adopted (40 ft. to theM.). 
The summit is passed in a deep rock-cut (50 ft. deep and h M. long), and 
the track descends on the W. 45 ft. to the M. The line runs S. W. on 
lofty galleries, and beautiful ■views of the Neversiuk Valley are aff"orded, 
with Milford and Port Jervis in the distance (the best views are from the 
r. of the train). With fascinating prospects of rugged mts. and fruitful 
valleys on either side, the train sweeps down to Guymard (* Guyniard 
Spring House, §2.50 a day, $ 12 a week), situated on a spur of the 
Shawangunk Mts. over the Neversink River. The views from Look-off 
Point and Mt. Camerdon are attractive, and a noble view is enjoyed from 
the peak called Prospect Pohit, including Gupnard, Huguenot, Port 
Jervis, the Nevereink and Delaware Valleys, and a vast wilderness of 
rugged peaks terminated by Storm King on tlie Hudson River. 

The Neversink is followed to its confluence with the Delaware River at 
Port Jervis {Delaware House; Fowler House), at the corner boundary 
of the States of N. Y., N. J., and Penn. This place has 8,700 inhabi- 
tants, and 7 churches, and is the seat of extensive R. R. shops. The 
round-houses have stalls for 60 locomotives. The village was named for 
John B. Jervis, the engineer of the D. & H. Canal, by which Penn. coal 
passes this point and is carried to tide-water on the Hudson. The scenery 
in the district is very striking, and attracts many summer visitors. Point 
Peter is often visited from this point, and commands a pleasing view, in- 
cluding Port Jervis and the valleys, and Mts. Sullivan, Williams, and 
other tall peaks. 

The Delaware Valley has line carriage-roads leading through pretty scenery. 
"From the N. border to the famous Water Gap, 40 M. S., stretches a gigantic 
ridge, compacted of slate and shale, overhanging the rich meadow-banks of the 

Delaware, and fringed with pine and fir Along this romantic vallev are 

clitfs of wildest, craggiest forms, and streams as virginal as when they were the 
Indian maiden's bath and mirror. They tumble over the great bluffs into the 
lowlands and the welcoming river even at their own sweet will. Shut in with 
woods and buttressed with mighty walls of rock, are cascades lovely as any in the 

world, — almost peerless in grace and variety of feature It is a Morning 

Land, with every cliff facing the risen sun. The mist and languor are in grain- 
fields far below ; the hills themselves are of the richest, darkest green ; the skies 
are blue and fiery ; the air is crisp, transparent, oxvgenated, American." (Sted- 
M.VN.) Miltor A {Dimmick House) is 1 hour's stage-ride S. W. of Port Jervis, 
crowning a plateau beside the river and (according to Willis) "looking like a 
town that all the mts. around have disowned and kicked into the middle." Near 



224 R(mte 33. LACKAWAXEN. 

Bimmick's is the picturesque Sairl-ill Glm (0-8 M. from Port Jorvis). with deep 
gorges and trout-pools, and the * Saw^ ill Fall-!, " wiuise grace is the despair of 
artists." " But Raymcmd^kin is the a.-' ni.wlcd-ed mojiarch of our Milford fluvi- 
archy," and has several lovely cataracts (Bridal Veil, Main Fall, etc.). 

A branch R. R. runs from Port Jervis '24 M. N. to Monticello, following the Never- 
sink Valley. Stations, Huguenot, Rose Point, Oakland, and Ilartwood, W. of 
which are the il/onr/awp Falls (70 ft.), in a deep chasm on the Mtmgaup River. 
Stations, Barnum's, Newfoundland, and Alonticello (Monticello; Mansion), a. 
highland village finely situated 1,387 ft. above the sea, and surrounded by hills. It 
is the capital of Sullivan County, and the main street is 1 M. long and 130 ft. 
wide, with flagged sidewalks and lines of shade-trees. The county buildings are 
of stone, and there are 4 churches. Pleasant, or Kiamesha, Pon'd, is 1 M. from 
the village, and has a summer boarding-house on its shore. The N. Y. and O. 
Midland R. R. is 4-5 M. N. E. of Monticello. 

The train crosses the Delaware 3 M. beyond Port Jervis, and runs for 
26 M. in the State of Penn., in the midst of pleasant and pictnre.sque 
scenery. The line follows closely the river and canal, and beyond 
Stairway Brook the track is laid on broad galleries hewn high up in the 
S. cliffs. The surveyors who located it were lowered by ropes from the 
sunmiit. Pond Eddy is at a broad curving basin of the Delaware ; and 
from Shohola a suspension bridge conducts to Barryville, on the N. Y. 
shore. The railroad for a long distance on this section cost % 100,000 a 
mile, and looks down from its lofty course upon the pleasant meadows 
of Lumberland. Station, Lackawaxen, at the confluence of Lackawaxeu 
Creek and Delaware River. The canal here crosses the river by a suspen- 
sion bridge ; and the railroad bridges the Lackawaxen. 

S. of Lackawaxen is the wilderness-county of Pike, 12,000 acres of which are 
occupied by the Blooming Grove Parlt, belonging to a sp>orting club and 
guarded by foresters. Anud theses dense forests and lakes are 3-400 deer, with 
many foxes, hares, bears, and game birds and lish. The proprietors have summer 
shooting-lodges in the park. 

The Honcsdale Branch It. R. runs W. up the valley of the Lackawaxen Creek, 
through the rugged and sparsely inhabited highlands of Pike and Wayne Counties, 
to Honesdale (25 M.), passing Hawley. 

7 M. from Lackawaxen the train crosses the Delaware by a bridge 600 
ft. long, and re-enters N. Y. State at Tusten, a forest town of Sullivan 
County. Station, Na'n-owshurg (summer hotel), at the Big Eddy, where 
the Delaware is compressed into a narrow channel by two rocky promon- 
tories. A single-span bridge here crosses the river; and a road leads E. 
into the lake-strewn towns of Highland and Lumberland, passing several 
of the hundred lakes of Sullivan County. The vicinity of Narrowsburg 
was the scene of Cooper's novel, "The Last of the Mohicans." The 
scenery is less interesting as the train passes Cochecton, which is near 
Damascus, Penn., and is W. of the many trout-abounding lakes of Bethel. 
Callicoon is near Galilee, Penn., and the pretty natural scenery of Calli- 
coon Creek. Stations, Hankins and Basket (at the new factory village of 
Douglas), beyond which the train passes along the bases of the mountain- 
ous bluffs of Delaware County. Lcn-dville is opposite the Penn. hamlet 
of Equinimk ; Stockport is the station for a village of Penn. on the r. 



SUSQUEHANNA. Route 33. 225 

bank. The train passes a long ridge on the r. and crosses the E. Branch 
of the Dehiware, then reaches Hancock, a pleasantly situated village with 
a suspension bridge on the W., and a plank road (stages for Hamden and 
Delhi) running up the Popacton Valley to Walton. The E. bluffs are 
now skirted on the r., and beyond Hale's Eddy the train reaches Dej^osit, 
at the great bend in the W. Branch of the Delaware. It is at the mouth 
of Oquago Creek, and was formerly an impoi'tant place of deposit for 
lumber awaiting the spring freshets. Extensive cattle-yards are now 
located here. The line leaves the Delaware Valley and begins to rise 
over heavy grades through a desolate land of hills. It ascends 369 ft. in 
8 M., and readies the lonely station of Summit, 1,366 ft. above the sea. 
Then ensues a descent of 8 M. on a grade of 60 ft. to tlie M. 4 M. from 
Summit the ti-ain crosses tlie site of the Cascade Bridge, a light and 
graceful stinicture of wood and iron which spanned a dark ravine 250 ft. 
wide and 184 ft, deep. It has been replaced by a lofty embankment. 
A pleasant * view of the Susquehanna River and Valley is gained on the 
r.; and the train, entering the State of Penn., crosses the famous * Sta- 
nicca Viaduct. This noble piece of masonry (built in 2| years) cost 
% 325,000, and crosses the Starucca Valley by 18 arches, with a length of 
1,200 ft. and a height of 110 ft. The valley and viaduct as seen in 
autumn have been celebrated by Cropsey in a brilliant painting. Cross- 
ing the Canauacta Creek at Lanesborough on a long trestle-work, the 
train stops at Susquehanna (* Starucca Hotel, at the station; passengei-s 
get good meals in tlie lofty and elegant dining-room). This village con- 
tains the Pfc. R. repair-shops, and is sometimes called "The City of 
Stairs," from the steepness of its streets and declivities. It was occupied 
by Penn. troops in March and April, 1874, to prevent destruction of 
property by insurgent employes. The buildings and machinery are 
the best in America, covering 8 acres, in 16 departments, and valued at 
$ 1,750,000. Opposite Susquehanna is the massive Oquago Mt. ; and 2 
M. beyond the train passes the Painted Rocks, where the first settlers 
foi;nd, high up on the cliffs, a painting of an Indian chief. The Jefferson 
Branch runs S. from Susquehanna to Carbondale (38 M. ) and tlie coal- 
fields of Luzerne County. The Susquehanna River is ci'ossed (beyond the 
Starucca Hotel) on a bridge 800 ft. long, and the train traverses level 
grades between the river and the tall hills on the r., and stops at Great 
Bend, whose village is on the farther shore. Here the Del., Lack. & 
Western R. R. comes in from the great coal-fields of Penn., bringing long 
coal-trains for the Erie western trade. Its track runs parallel to the 
Erie (on the r. bank) as far as Binghamtou. Beyond Kirkwood the 
present route reaches Bingham tor 

10* O 



22G Ronte S3. BTNGFTAMTON. 

Hotels. — The * Dwiglit House (8 3-4. 50 a day) is a new and elegant hotel VL 
a I'ar-viewiiig park near tlie (-ity, suitable either tor tourists or for a summer 
house. Spauldiug House, near the station, $2.&0 ; Lewis House. On Court St., 
Exchange Hotel ; Way's Hotel ; CaH'erty House. 

Horse-Cars. —On Main, Court; and Chenango Sts. to Port Dickinson (3 M.) ; 
on Vvajhiiii^'ton and Eldredge !Sts. to Inebriate Asylum ; and on Washington 8t. 

Railroads. — The Erie, to N. Y. in 214 M., to Buffalo in 208 M. ; the Del., 
Lack. & Western, to N. Y. in 210 M., to Oswego in 115 M. ; the Albany and 
Susquehanna, to Albany iu 142 M. 

Bin^j;hamton was named after Wm. Bingham (of Phila.), who owned large* 
tract.s'of land in this region. It was settled late, and became a city in 1S67. The 
hill-county of Broome was first visited by white men when Clinton's army trav- 
ersed it in 1779. They encamped near Binghamton, and destroyed an Indian 
village. The fir.s't settler in the co. was Capt. Leonard (of Plymouth, Mass.), wlio 
came in 1787, and was soon followed by other New-Englanders, who occupied the 
intervales of the Chenango. The chief village was Union (9 M. from Bingham- 
ton), where a hotel was built and the American Constellation newspaper was 
stalled (1800) ; but Union retrograded alter Binghain, with shrewd strategy, 
founded a town at the confluence of the rivers. The county was owned by the 
Tuscarora In<lians, who sold it to N. Y. in 1785, after a long treaty conference at 
Fort Herkimer. Together with a great portion of Central N. Y., it was claimed 
by Massachusetts in virtue of her royal charter, which embi-aced all the territory 
between 44° and 48° N. latitude, "from sea to sea." Mass. yielded her right to 
this vast trans-continental belt at the Hartford Convention of 1786, receiving, 
among other things, a tract of 230,400 acres in and near Broome Co. The Coni- 
nionwealth sold this district to 60 men of Berkshire in 1787 (lor § 7,500), and the 
aborigines were soon crowded ott by the hardy Eastern immigrants. 

Binghamton, the capital of Broome Co. , is pleasantly situated at the 
confluence of the Susquehanna and Chenango Rivers, and is surrounded 
by high wooded hills. It has about 1(5,000 inhabitants, with 12 churches, 
G banks, 9 Masonic societies, and 3 daily papers. The city has risen to 
importance by its railroad facilities, four great lines converging here and 
connecting with the Chenango Canal. Innnense amounts of iron and coal 
are handled, and large manufacturing interests have been developed, while 
the country trade of many towns is centred here. Tlie city is on both 
sides of both rivers, and there are 2 bridges over each. Chenango St. 
runs S. from the station, by the Baptist and Presbyterian churches, to 
Court St., the main thoroughfare. The Court House is a large building, 
surmounted by a dome, and fronted by a classic portico supported by 
Ionic columns. It is eligibly situated on Court St., amid open grounds, 
beyond which the hills are seen. Court St. has several fine commercial 
blocks, the best of which is the lofty granite Bank Building (corner of 
Chenango St.). Passing to the'W., the Chenango Canal and River are 
crossed, and the new and ornate High Scliool is seen on the ]., fronting 
the Cong. Church. On the hill beyond is the brick building of the Place 
College (Methodist; for ladies). The Chenango Canal was commenced in 
1833, and extends 97 M. N, to the Erie Canal, at Utica. Christ Church 
is an irregular and picturesque stone building ; and St. Patrick's is on 
Le Roy St., and is connected Avith the Convent of St. Joseph. The city 
water-works are on the Holly system, and supply 22 M. of pipes. 6 
continuous streams of water can be thrown 125 ft. liigh at the same time 



OWEGO. Route S3. 227 

by the hydrants, and without engines. On Mt. Prospect is a favorite 
Avater-cuve liotel, situated among large trees, and overlooking the city 
aiid valley. In the vicinity is a saline-chalybeate spring, whose waters 
resemble those of Cheltenham, England (in each gallon, 53 grains of car- 
bonate of iron, 63 of carbonates of lime and magnesia, and 11 of chloride 
of sodium). In the N. W. suburb is the Spring Forest Cemetery, where 
D. S. Dickinson, the senator and jurist, is buried, under a monument 
ci'ected by the N. Y. Bar Association. The State Inebriate Asylum is 
situated iipon a far-viewing hill 1 -2 M. N. E. of the city (horse-cars), and 
is an imposing stone building, 365 ft. long, in the Tudor castellated archi- 
tecture, with many towers, and 400 acres of gromids. It is designed 
for the medical treatment and restraint of inebriates. Tlie Susquehanna 
Valley Home is near the city, and guards and educates indigent children. 

Beyond Binghamton the Erie train enters a fertile farnung country, 
which is fringed by the rich Susquehanna intervales. Stations, Hooper, 
Union, Campville, and Owego [Ahivaga House; Park ; U. S.; Briggs"), 
th^ capital of Tioga County. Owego is beautifully situated on the N. 
bank of the Susquehanna, wliich is here crossed by a bridge 1,200 ft. 
long. It has 9,715 inhaliitants, with 7 churches, 3 weekly papers, and 4 
banks. Considerable manufacturing is done here, and there is a lucrative 
trade with the farming country in the vicinity. In the W., on Owego 
Creek, is Glen Mary, an estate formerly held by N. P. Willis, and where 
he wrote the charming " Letters from under a Bridgp." Evergreen Cem- 
etery is N. of the village, on a hill 200 ft. high, and commands attractive 
views of the valley. On the park is the new and elegant Court House of 
Tioga County. The Cayuga Div. of the Del., Lack. & Western R. R. 
runs from Owego N. W. to Ithaca in 35 M. (see page 204) ; and the S. 
Central R. R. crosses the Erie at this point. 

The Susquehanna is closely followed by the .stations of Tioga Centre, 
Smitliboro', and Barton, to Waverly {Courtney House), a prosperous village 
on Cayuta Creek, with 2,239 iidiabitants, 5 churches, 3 newspapers, and 
2 banks. S. of Waverly, at the confluence of the Chemung and Susque- 
hanna Rivers, is Tioga Point, where the hostile army gathered before tlie 
Massacre of Wyoming. At a later day, Gen. Sullivan's American army 
encamped here before the battle near Elmira. The Penn. & N. Y. Canal 
& R. R. Co. 's R. R. intersects the Erie at this point ; and the Ithaca and 
Athens R. R. runs N. to Ithaca. The train now passes down to the Penn. 
border, then turns N. W., and reaches 

Elmira. 

Hotels. — * Rathbun House, $3 a day, corner of Water and Baldwin Sts.; 
Frasier House, at the station ; Pattlnson House. Reading-Room, Y. M. C. A. 
(6,000 volumes), corner of Lake and Carroll Sts. Horse-Cars on Water St., and to 
the College and Eldridge Park. Railroads. — The N. Central R. R. here intersects 
the Ene, at '2J«i M. from Baltimore, and the Lehigh Valley and Utica. Ithaca and 
Elmira R.ulroads lerminute here. 



228 Rmte 33. ELMIRA. 

Elmira, the capital of Chemung County, is situated in a pleasant valley 
near the Chemung River, and is the chief city of the Southern Tier. It 
has over 20,000 inhabitants, with 12 churches, 2 daily and 3 weekly 
papers, and 6 banks. Much business is done in tlie transshipment of 
coal and grain on the railroads and canals which intersect here, and there 
is a large and lucrative country-trade. There are many busy manufac- 
tories, including the immense car-shops of the Erie Railway ; and here is. 
the seat of the new State Reformatory and the Southern Tier Orphans' 
Home. Water St. is the main thoroughfare, and is lined with business 
houses. The Cmtrt House is a handsome building, situated in pleasant 
grounds. The Elmira Female College occupies a si)acious and imposing 
brick building on an eminence in the N. suburb, and is richly endowed 
and of good repute. It has 12 instructors and 180-150 students, and is 
located amid umbrageous grounds. The Eldridge Park (100 acres) is a 
short distance N. of the city, and is prettily laid out with groves and 
lakelets, and adorned with many statues, — Eve and the Serpent, Con- 
templation, Andromeda, Sabrina, Flora, the Maid of the Mist, etc. Tlie 
Ulmira Water Cure is on a hill E. of the city, overlooking Elmira and 
the Chemung Valley (for boarders, $7-13 a week; for invalids, including 
medical attention, $ 10 - 15 a week). 

The site of Elmira was anciently occupied by the Indian town of Conewaivah, 
which was surrounded by prolific orchards and grain-tlelds. Near this jjlace 
the Six Nations concentrated their forces in 1779 and built fortifications to check 
tlie advance of Sullivan's army. Aug. 29, 1779. Gen. Hand appeared before 
Conewawah with the American vanguard and was at once atta(;ked by the In- 
dians. Brant (the celebrated Mohawk chieftain) and Sir John Johnson command- 
ed the hostile forces. Poor's Ct>ntinental brigade arrived on the field while Hand 
was in line before the works, and was ordered to storm the heights on the r. of 
the advance. After a stubborn combat of 2 hours' duration, during which the 
American artillery kept up a continuous cannonade. Poor succeeded in reaching 
the summit of the ridge and flanking the hostile lines. The Indians then raised 
the retreating cry of Oonah ! Oonah ! an<l gave way in every direction, leaving the 
Continentals in possession of the field and town. Sullivan's devastating march 
up the Seneca country followed this victory (see page 212). This vicinity began 
to be colonized in 1787-90, and its growth has since been rapid. Elmira was a 
busy recruiting-rendezvous during the Secession War, and 37 regiments were 
organized here. A part of the immense barracks was fitted up for a military 
prison, and here were confined 11,91(5 Rebels, of whom 2,950 died (invalids from 
the unhealthy prison at Point Lookout. Md., or men worn down by hardship in 
the field). Many of them are buried in Woodlawn Cemetery with headstones 
])rovided by the U. S. Govt. 2^ M. W. of Elmii-a are the ruins of a prehistoric 
fortress, on a bold promontory over the Chemung River. 

On leaving Elmira the Eldridge Park is passed on the r. and the train 
runs N. into Horseheads town, where the N. Central R. R. diverges to 
the r. at Junction station. Corning {Dickinson House, $3 a day) is a 
busy factory village of 6,811 inhabitants, witli 7 churches, 3 newspapers, 
3 banks, and 2 academies. On the hill over the business streets and rail- 
road is seen the massive little building of the State Arsenal, with its tow- 
ers and walls resembling a small castle. The village was formed in 1790, 



AVON SPRINGS. Route 33. 229 

and bore the name of Painted Post until 1852, when it was named in 
honor of Erastiis Corning. 

A railroad runs S. from Coming into the large and sparsely populated Penn. 
county of Tioga, iollowing the valley of the Tioga River. Fares, to Blossburg, 
$1.35; to Fall Brook, 81.60; to Wellsboro', §1.30. The line passes through a 
rugged country to Blossburg {Eagle Hotel), a flourishing town with over 4,000 
inliabitants. In this vicinity several short coal-roads diverge to the mines : and 
the prolific coal-beds of the Fall Brook Co. are among the ravines 4 - 7 M. E. A 
branch R. R. runs S. VV. 24 M. from Lawrenceville (15 M. S. of Corning) to Wells- 
boro' (ireii*-6oro' Hotel), the county-seat, and Antrim; and another branch runs 
7 M. W. from Lawrenceville to the hamlets of Nelson and Elkland. Stages run 
from Wellsboro' to Mansfield, Stony Fork, and Coudersport (46 M. ; tri-weekly). 
The Blossburg Mineral Springs are much visited, and contain an excess of free 
sulphuric acid, with sulphates of iron, alumina, and magnesia. 733,035 tons of 
semi-bituminous coal were mined in the Blossburg district in 1870, and were sent 
to market by way of Coming. 

TJie Rochester Division. 

Stations. — Coming, 290 M. from N. Y. ; Painted Post, 292 ; Cooper's, 295 ; 
Curtis, 298 ; Savona, 304 ; Bath, 310 ; Kanona, 314 ; Avoca, 318 ; Wallace's, 321 ; 
Liberty, 326 ; Blood's, 330 ; Wayland, 336 ; Springwater, 340 ; Conesus, 347 ; S. 
Livonia, 351 ; Livonia, 355 ; Hamilton's, 357 ; Avon, 366 ; Rush, 371 ; Scottsville, 
373 ; Henrietta, 376 ; Red Creek, 380 ; Rochester, 385. Fare from N. Y. to Avon 
or Rochester, $7.70. 

The train runs N. W. from Coming by Painted Post and several rural 
stations in the valley of tlie Conhocton River. Bath {Park Hotel) is a 
populous village situated in a rich farming district (prolific in wines) and 
has 6 churches, 2 newspapers, the Haverling School, and the Davenport 
Female Orphans' Asylum. It is a semi-capital of Steuben County. 
Trains run N. E. to Hammo^idsport, ouKeuka. hake {'S.Centra.lR.R.). 
The train ascends the Conhocton Valley by Blood's (whence daily stages 
run to Naples, on Canandaigua Lake), and passes on to Conesus, a short 
distance W. of the pretty liighland Lakes Conesus, Hemlock, Canadice, 
and Honeoye. Hamilton's station is near the foot of Conesus Lake, 
which is 8 M. long; and 6-7 M. N. E. is Livia, the seat of the Genesee 
Wesleyan Seminary and formerly of the Genesee College. Station, Avon 
{Avon Springs Hotel), a pleasant village in the Genesee Valley and near 
the celebrated Avon Springs {Congress Hall ; * Knickerbocker Hall ; 
U. S. Hotel, in the village; and several boarding-houses). Tliere are 3 
springs, and the saline-sulpliurous waters are taken internally and also in 
the form of baths. The Lower Spring has 158 grains of solid contents in 
each gallon; and the Upper Spring has 204 grains. They are 1 M. S. W. 
of Avon, and the Lower Spring discharges 54 gallons a minute. The 
waters are mildly cathartic, and are beneficial in cases of chronic and 
cutaneous diseases. Stages run from Avon to York and Lima. 

The Attica Branch R. R. runs W. from Avon by Le Roy and Batavia to Attica in 
37 M. (and also to Buft'alo) ; and the Dansville and Mt. Morris Branch runs S. 
from Avon up the Genesee Valley to Dansville, passing Oeneseo, the capital of 
Livingston County, the seat of a State Normal School and the Geneseo Academy 



230 Route 33. HORNELLSVILLE. 

(on Temple Hill, and approached by an avenue lined with noble trees). Here Is 
the monument to Gen. J. S. Wadsworth, a wealthy gentleman of Geneseo who 
studied law under Daniel Webster ; entered the U. S. army during the Secession 
War ; and was mortally wounded while commanding the First Cori)S of the Army 
of the Potomac, at the battle of the Wilderness. IBeyond the flourishing village 
oi Mount Morris the train runs S. E. to Dansville, a place of 3,600 inhabitants, 
with 8 churches, 2 banks, a seminary, and numerous factories. On a hillside 
over the village is the " Our Home Hygienic Institute," overlooking the rich 
Canaseraga Valley. 2J M. S. is the Stntiy Brook Glen, famed for its beautiful 
scenery. The Jackson, Hurd, and Woodcliff Falls are all within 1 M. of the en-, 
trance to the glen. 

Beyond Avon the Rochester train descends the Genesee Vallev, near the river, 
crosses the T., B., & C. Div. of the N. Y. Central R. R. ; and runs N. E. through 
Henrietta and 'the rich nurseries of Brighton to the city of Kocliester (see 
page 171). 

The train on the main line of the Erie Railway runs parallel with the 
Rochester Div, to Painted Post, where the latter roatl diverges to the r. 
This station and village is named after an inscribed monument which was 
erected in 1770 by the Indians over the grave of their chief, Capt. Mon- 
tour. The track next ascends the Tioga and Canisteo Valleys to Addison, 
an active factory village at the confluence of the Canisteo and Tuscarora 
Rivers. The valley now begins to contract, and the bluffs are steeper 
and more rocky. Stations, Rathboneville, Cameron Mills, Cameron (in 
the deep valley of the Canisteo), Adrian, and Canisteo. The valley grows 
wider, and the tram stops at Hornellsville {Sherman House ; American ; 
restaurant at the station), a place of 4,552 inhabitants, wath 5 churches, 
and an active Library Association. The Susquehanna, Western, and 
Buffalo Divisions of the Erie Railway converge here, and many side-tracks, 
engine-houses, and repair-shops are located near the station. The line 
passes from Hornellsville up the Canacadea Valley to Almond, a pros- 
perous factory village, situated on ample water-power. The scenery of 
the Western Division is of but little comparative interest, and the settle- 
ments are new and small. Station, Alfred, 2 M. N. E. of the Alfred 
University, a school of the Seventh-Day Baptists, with academic and 
collegiate departments, spacious buildings, 18 professors and tutors, and 
363 students (184 ladies). At Tip Top Summit the R. R. attains its 
greatest elevation, 1,760 ft. above the sea, and tlience it descends toward 
the Genesee Valley on a grade of 40 ft. to the M. Dike Creek is followed 
by Andover to Genesee (American House), a small factory village. To 
the S. are the mountainous towns of Alma and Willing, devoted to lum- 
bering. The train now turns up the Genesee Valley (to the N. W. ), and 
follows the river. Stations, Scio (amid steep hills), Belmont, and Belvi- 
dere. This village is the railroad outlet for several of the Genesee towns. 
2 M, N. is Angelica {St. Charles Hotel), a semi-capital of Allegany 
County, with 5 churches, an academy, and a newspaper. The village was 
named after Gen, Philip Schuyler's daughter. Stations, Friendship, and 
Cuba Summit, where the train crosses the Allegany water-shed, 1,677 ft. 



DUNKIRK. Route 33. 231 

above the sea. Tlie rain falling on tlie E. slope of this ridge flows into 
the Genesee River, Lake Ontario, and the St. Lawrence ; that falling on 
the W. reaches the Gulf of Mexico by the Allegany, Ohio, and Missis- 
sippi Rivers. The descending grade leads to Cuba, a flourishing village 
on the Genesee Canal, and thence down the valley of Oil Creek (not the 
Oil Creek of petroleum fame) to Hinsdale and Olean {Forbes House), an 
important shipping station, where the present route is crossed by the 
Buffalo, N. Y., and Phila. R. R. ^ M. S. of Allegany station and vil- 
lage is a Franciscan Convent and College, with 14 monks and tertians, 
and 120 pupils, N. of the college is St. Elizabeth's Academy, with 60 
pupils, under the Franciscan Nuns. From Carrolton the Buffalo, Brad- 
ford, and Pittsburgh R. R. runs S. into the decadent Penn. county of 
McKean, to Bradford (11 M.) and GilesviUe (26 M.; fare, 80c.). 

The route now lies through the great Allegany Reservation of the Seneca 
Indians. It includes 42 square M. in a belt of rich land about 2 M. wide on both 
sides of the Allegany, and its non-development by civilized labor has retarded 
the growth of the county. There were 800 - 1,000 Indians here at the last census. 
In 1S48 tlie Senecas abrogated the chieftaincy and formed a government consist- 
ing of 3 peacemakers and a council of IS members. The nation kept an ambassa- 
dor at Washington, and uo treaty is valid unless ratified by the votes of | of the 
men and | of the mothers. 

Stations, Great Valley and Salamanca, a dreary hamlet built on lands 
leased from the Indians, and devoted to lumbering and tanneries. 5-6 
M. N. E. is the remarkable rock formation called Rock City, occupying 
100 acres on the summit of a hill 400 ft. above the valley. Immense rec- 
tangular blocks of pure white conglomerate rock (of white pebbles con- 
glutinated) crop out along the plateau, presenting the appearance of a 
marble city with sharp-angled squares and straight lanes. The Atlantic 
& Great Western Railway runs W. from Salamanca (see Route 34), and 
beyond it the Erie train passes Little Valley, the capital of Cattaraugus 
County; Cattaraugus, in a secluded valley; and Dayton, 1,595 ft. above 
tlie sea. Long descending grades are now traversed, leading through 
almost vmbroken forests. 3 M. beyond Perrysburgh, Lake Erie is seen 
in the distance. Stations, Smith's Mills, Forestville, Sheridan Centre, 
and Dunkirk, the terminus of the road, 460 M. from N. Y. City. Junc- 
tion is here formed with the Lake Sliore and Michigan Southern R. R. 
Dunkirk {Erie Hotel) is a toA\m of 5,231 inhabitants, with 12 churches, 2 
banks, and 3 weekly papers. It is regularly laid out, and fronts on an 
artificial harbor which is sheltered by piers and a breakwater. It has 
lost its importance as a lake-port since the withdrawal of the lines of 
steamers to other points, and the large wharves and warehouses are not 
fully used. Manufactures have replaced commerce, and the R. R. repair- 
shops and locomotive- works employ many men. Here is located St. 
Mary's Retreat, a convent of the austere Order of the Passionists, and 
there is a State Normal School at Fredonia (3 M. S.; horse-cars orR. R.), 



232 Route 33. PORTAGE FALLS. 

a prosperous village, which is illuminated with gas drawn from a remark- 
able spring near by. 

Tlie Buffalo Division. 

Stations. — Honlells^^lle, 331 M. from New York ; Bums, 339 ; Canaseraga, 
343 ; Swain's, 34S ; Nunda, 355 ; Hunt's, 357 ; Portage, 361 ; Castile, 365 ; Gaines- 
ville. 367 ; Warsaw, 374 ; Dale, 3S0 ; Linden, 384 ; Attica, 391 ; Lancaster, 412 ; 
Buffalo, 422 ; Suspension Bridge, 443. 

The train runs N. W. from Homellsville by Canaseraga and the Chau- 
tauque Valley to Nunda, which is 3 M. S. of the large village of the 
same name. Portage {Cascade House, $3 a day; Ingham House, at 
Portageville) is a station at the famous * Portage Bridge, which is 818 
ft. long and 234 ft. high. It is strongly built of iron, replacing a wooden 
bridge bunit in 1875. The scenery in this vicinity is of renoAvned 
attractiveness, and is formed by the descent of the Genesee River from 
the plateau to a deep and cliff-bound gorge. " If the Portage Falls 
were in Yosemite Valley or among the Alps, instead of 12 hours from 
the Metropolis, they would be visited and painted and photogi-aphed 
and written of a great deal more." (A. D. Richardson.) The falls are 
reached by crossing the Portage Bridge on a plank walk through the 
trestles far below the R. R. track, and diverging to the r. by a Avell- 
defined foot-path on the W. bank. On the opposite shore is seen the 
Genesee Canal, in a high gallery on the side of the bluffs, and crossing 
the river just above by a long aqueduct. The Upper, or * Horse-Shoe, 
Falls are just below the bridge, and are 68 ft. high, preceded by a line of 
step-like rapids. | M. below is the * Middle Fall, where the river 
plunges over a precipice 110 ft. high into a deep black basin surrounded 
by tall cliffs. Under the W. cliff and near the bottom of the Fall is the 
sombre^ and resounding cavern called the Devil's Oven (often visited 
during low water, and large enough to shelter 100 persons). Near this 
point is the pretty villa called Glen Iris, from whose lawn is gained a fine 
view of the Upper and Middle Falls and the Portage Bridge. The river 
now flows through a great canon whose sides are formed of sheer cliffs 
250-380 ft. high, down which, on the E. side, fall occasional white bands 
of water — miniature Staubbachs — from the canal which traverses the 
escarpment beyond. At 2 M, below the Portage Bridge the rapid river 
becomes tumultuous and roars do\vn through a chasm of astonishing 
depth and narrowness. The * Lower Falls are a series of high rapids 
with 150 ft. of descent in ^ M., over step-like strata alternating with per- 
pendictilar cascades and dark, deep pools. On one reach the river is 
compressed into a channel 15 ft. wide, and, after leaping down 20 ft. into 
a narrow crevice, hiirls itself against the lofty and isolated rock-pinnacle 
called Sugar Loaf, which is 100 ft. high and 15 ft. in diameter. At this 
point the river whirls off at right angles, and speeds away down, the gorge. 



BUFFALO. Route 33. 233 

The High Banks of the Genesee extend for several miles, between the 
towns of Mt. Morris and Castile, with an altitude of 300 - 350 ft. 3. M. 
from the Lower Falls is Wolf Creek, which descends from the Silver Lake 
plateau through a resounding glen flanked by tall cliff's, and enshrining 
many graceful cascades. 

As the train crosses the Portage Bridge, fine views are afforded (on the r.) 
of the High Banks and the profound gorges of the Genesee. Beyond 
Castile the line reaches Gainesville 3 M. N. E. of a hamlet which con- 
tains a large female seminary. The Silver Lake Railway (2 trains daily) 
runs N. E, 7 M. from Gainesville along the shores of the lake to Perry, a 
small village on its outlet. Silver Lake is 3 M. long, and has a small 
summer hotel on its shore. Its waters deposit lime in the form of marl, 
and are said to be haunted by a monster serpent, concerning which there 
was much excitement in 1855. Station, Warsaw (2 large country hotels; 
hotel at the station), the capital of Wyoming Coimty, with 1,631 in- 
habitants, 5 churches, 2 banks, and 2 newspapers. This is the favorite 
summer home of the visitors to the beaixtiful 0-at-ka Valley, or Valley 
of Wyoming (not the historic Wyoming). The village is very pretty, 
and is approached from the station by the Gxdf Road, which leads down 
a deep ravine into the Warsaw glen. The favorite drives are to Silver 
Lake, 7 M. S. E. ; to the High Banks of the Genesee and the Wolf Creek 
glen ; and down the rich Oatka Valley to Wyoming, 8-10 M. Daily 
stages run S. W. by Wethersfield Springs to Arcade (25 M. ). 

" The vicinity of Warsaw — along the banks of the Oatka — is a rich pastoral 
country, such as artists love and strive to reproduce in their pictures. Here 
groups of elms reach their graceful branches down to the water ; there the water 

reflects the soft gray spray of willows Like almost the whole of Northern 

N. Y., the region is full of waterfalls, the most beautiful, perhaps, being the 
Upper Falls above the railroad at Warsav/, which only need a different and grander 
texture of rock to equal the waterfalls of Norway, or the Falls of luversnaid, in 
Scotland." 

Warsaw and the Oatka Valley are seen to the r, from the train as it 
passes the station and wmds along the highlands to Dale, Linden, and 
Attica {Exchange Hotel), which is connected with Batavia (11 M. N. E.) 
both by the Erie and the N. Y. Central R. R. The line now runs W. 
across Erie County, passing several rural hamlets, and enters the city of 

BuiFalo. 

Hotels. — *Tifft House, $4 a day, Main St., near Mohawk ; * Mansion House, 
Main St., opposite the Terrace; Bonney's Hotel, Wasliington St.; Continental 
Hotel, $ 3, at the R. R. station ; United States ; and several smaller houses, near 
the station, on Exchange St. 

Heading- Rooms. — The Young Men's Association, comer of Main and Eagle 
Sts.; the Y. M. C. A., 319 Main St.; the Catholic Institute, 412 Main St. 

Amusements. — At the Oi^era House, on Main, near Clinton St.; Academy 
of Music, 2-17 Main St. ; St. James Hall, corner of Eagle and Washington Sts. 

Horse-Cars. — Every 5 min. on Main and Niagara Sts., running from the 
harbor out Main St. to Cold Spring Abbey and the Park ; also across Niagara 



234 Rotde 33. BUFFALO. 

Square and on Niagara St., by Fort Porter, to Black Rock ; and out Genesee St. 
Cars run out Exchange St. through the lower part of the city. Stages run daily 
to Clarence, Wiliianibville, E. Hamburgh, Coldeu, Springville, Glenwood, Boston 
Centre, and White's Corners. 

Hailroads. — The Erie (Route 33), to New York in 442 M. ; the N. Y. Central 
(Route "Jo), to New York in 440 M.; the Buffalo, N. Y., and Phila., to Emporium 
in 121 M. (and Philadelphia in 419 M.) ; the Lake yhore and Michigan Southern, 
to Chicago in 539 M.; the Canada Southern, to Upper Canada and the West ; the 
Grand Trunk, to Detroit in 258 M. Niagara Falls is reached by the Erie (23 
M.), the N. Y. Central (22 M.), or the Canada Southern (2G M.). Steamers run 
to the principal ports on Lake Erie. 

Buffalo, the capital of Erie County, is situated at the E. end of Lake 
Erie, at the efflux of the Niagara River. It has the "best harbor on the 
lake, and its water-front is neai'ly 5 M. long. The site of the city is on 
ground wliich rises slowly from the shore, with bold bluffs fronting the 
Niagara River; and from the upper portion are gained pleasant views of 
the lake and the Canadian shore. There are 5 public squares, and the 
streets are broad and well arranged. The principal thoroughfares are 
Main, Niagara, and Delaware Sts., each of which is over 3 M. long; and 
the Terrace is an open square in the busiest quarter, and near the harbor. 
There are 10 banks, 14 Masonic societies, 9 daily papers (3 of which are 
German), and 76 churches (of which 16 are German, 4 African, and 2 
French). The great basins, ship-canals, and elevators along the harbor 
and Buffalo Creek are worthy of a visit ; and the number and activity of 
the steam-tugs plying in these narrow waters will attract attention. 
Lower Main St. is devoted to heavy wholesale trade; and from the point 
where Exchange St. enters from the spacious R. R. station, the broad 
square called the Terrace stretches off toAvard the canal. Passing up 
Main St., by fine commercial buildings, Niagara St. is reached, and on 
the 1. are seen the First Pres. Church and the Episcopal Catliedral of St. 
Paul, a stately old structure, in which the body of ex-President Fillmore 
was laid in state in April, 1874. This church has a fine chime of bells. A 
sliort distance beyond is * St. Joseph's Cathedral (Catholic), an im- 
posing building of gray stone, with a lofty nave and a chancel- window of 
Munich stained glass, showing the Nativity, Crucitixion, and Ascension 
of Christ. Church St. conducts thence to the lake-shore, where nuiy be 
seen the breakwaters which sliield the Ei'ie Basin, with the tall lighthouse, 
sustaining a first-class Fresnel light. The Post-Office is a fine stone build- 
ing on the coi'ner of Washington and Seneca Streets. The Young Men's 
Association has a library of 27,000 volumes, with large cabinets of nat- 
ural history, and tlie collections of the Historical and Fine Arts Societies; 
the Y. M. C. A. has 10,000 volumes; and the Grosvenor Library is another 
large and valuable collection. Niagara St. diverges to the 1. above St. 
Paul's, crossing the aristocratic Niagara Square, and passing many fine 
residences. It runs out beyond Fort Porter (a small work designed for 
64 guns and 300 men), by the side of the Niagara River, and near the 



BUFFALO. Route 33. 235 

Church Charity buildings and the Reservoir, to Black Rock, a suburb of 
Buffalo opposite the Canadian town of Fort Erie. The Niagara River is 
here crossed by the * International Bridge, which was built in 1869 - 73 
at a cost of $1,500,000, and has 12 spans, with 450 ft. over Black Rock 
Harbor, 1,800 over Squaw Island, and 1,800 over the river. It is to be 
used by the N. Y. Central, the Erie, and the 3 Canadian railroads. Re- 
turning to Main St., near the old city buildings on Franklin Square are 
seen Grace and St, Peter's Churches ; and Batavia St. runs out thence to 
the massive feudal building of the State Arsenal, with its heavy stone 
towers. Just beyond is St. Mary's Church, near the spacious Redemp- 
torist Convent of St. Mary. Above Franklin Square, Genesee St. is seen 
diverging to the r., running far out into the country. Trinity and the 
Central and N. Pres. Churches are now passed on Main St.; and to the 
r. near the Washington Market, is the red sandstone Romanesque build- 
ing of St. Michael's Church, fronted by a statue of St. Michael conquering 
the Dragon, and containing several frescos in chiaroscuro in the spacious 
nave. Above the church is Canisius College, a Jesuit institution. The 
Bu^ffalo Femxale Academy accommodates 500 students, and lies to the W. 
of Main St., on Delaware Ave., and oveidooking Lake Erie. Main St. 
now passes the Buffalo Medical College (8 professors ; 94 students), in a 
broad district of handsome villas, and the Church of St. Louis. A short 
distance to the r., on Virginia St., is the Martin Luther College; and to 
the 1. , on the same street, is the Buffalo Orphan Asylum. The General 
Hospital is on High St.; and by turning from Main St. to the 1., on 
North St., the Westminster Church, the fine buildings of the Normal 
School, and the College of St. Joseph are seen. 2-3 M. from the City 
Hall, Main St. passes the immense Cold Spring, crosses the Scajaquada 
Creek, and intersects the Humboldt Parkway near the spacious Providence 
Asylum (of the Sisters of Charity). By diverging to the 1., the new Park 
is entered. This municipal ornament is still in process of construction, 
and is to have broad parkways leading to subordinate public grounds 
farther in the city. The lake and lawns have been completed, and pleas- 
ant drives may be found here. The Forest Laxon Cemetery is bounded 
on 2 sides by the Park, and has large grounds adorned with lakelets and 
grove-crowned hills, among v/hich are many fine monuments. To the W., 
towards the river, are the new and costlj' ranges of buildings which are 
being erected for the State Asylum for the Insane. 

The commercial importance of Buffalo is due to its safe and capacious harbor, 
at the E. end of free navigation ou the Great Lakes, and to the termination here 
of the Erie Canal. With the exception of N. Y. City, this is the chief point on 
tlie continent for shipping grain, and emi>loys great fleets in transporting it from 
the W. In 1872, 62,000,000 bushels arrived here by lake, and 30,000,000 by rail- 
road, for whose storage there are 31 elevators, with a capacity of 7-8,000,000 
bushels, and a transfer capacity of nearly 3,000,000 bushels per day. Tho coal 
traffic is also of great magnitude, and the receipts thereof in 1870 amounted to 



236 Route 33. BUFFALO. 

878,787 tons. Between 1857 and 1871 there were sent East from Buffalo, 2,783,186 
cattle, 4,745,451 sheep, and 4,268,605 hogs. In 1S70 the entries and clearances 
(American and Canadian) at this port amounted to 10,625 vessels, with 4,157,793 
tonnage, and 105,7'.>8 sailors. The manufactures of Butl'alo are of great extent and 
value, including innnense iron-works, rails, and car-wheels, niacliinery, leather 
(40 establishments), pianos, scales, ropes, furniture, ale and beer (40 breweries). 

The Erie Canal was built between 1S17 and 1825, and extends from Buffalo 
to Albany and \V. Troy (352 M.) by Rochester, Syracuse, and Utica. It has cost 
about .545,000,000, and has 655 ft. oi lockage in 71 locks (16 of which are found in 
the last 3 M. at Troy, and require 5 hrs. to pass). There are over 7,000 canal- 
boats, with 28,000 men, and 16,000 horses and mules. The boats cost $3-5,000 
each, and make 6 round trips every season, each boat containing more than a 
freight train. They pass from Buffalo to Albany in 11 days, running night and 
day, the crews being divided into 2 watches. In the active season 150 boats readi 
the Hudson daily, and in the last 30 years the canal has transported over 50,000,000 
tons of freight. In the year 1871-72, 0,003,214 tons of freight passed from the 
West to the seaboard, of which tlie N. Y. Central R. R. carried 2,250,000 tons; 
the Erie, 1,262,881 ; the Pennsylvania, 1,102,846 ; the Bait, and Oliio, 720,275 ; 
and thf Erie Canal, 3,087,212. 

Buffalo received its name from the fact that the early French travellers saw 
large herds of wild cattle here, and hence named it Bufflc. It was laid out in 1801 
by the Holland Land Co. under the name of New Amsterdam, and owes the pecu- 
liar aiTangenient of its streets to the fact that it was surveyed by one of the Elli- 
cott brothers, who learned the art of obliquing streets across rectangular squares 
in laying out Wasliington City. This district was the theatre of stirring events 
during the War of 1812, — the chief of which were the sacking and burning of 
Buffalo by the Royal Scots Regiment (Dec. 30, 1813), and the battles about Fort 
Erie. This fort was captured in 1813 by the Americans, and again in 1814. After 
the heavy battles at Chippewa and Niagara Falls, the American army fell back to 
this point and strengthened the defences. The British army advanced to and 
besieged Fort Erie, and after a long cannonade made a determined night attack 
on several points. The assault on Towson's battery was repulsed by tlie 21st U. 
S. regulars, after 5 successive charges, during which the hostile ranks were swept 
with canister. On the right a force of British veterans succeeded in scaling the 
parapet under a tremendous fire, and held the bastion against repeated attacks of 
overwhelming American forces. The bastion was finally blown up, with all its 
defenders, and the fort oi)ened a general cannonade on all sides, upon which the 
assault was given up. The British lost 221 men killed, 174 wounded, and 186 
prisoners, and the American loss was 84. Sept. 17, 1814, the Americans made a 
sortie in force upon the dangerously advanced i>arallcls of the besiegers, and un- 
der cover of a dense fog 2,000 men\swept over and through the British intrench- 
ments, spiking their guns and inflicting a loss on them of nearly 1,000 men. The 
hostile army soon abandoned its cami)s and retired by night to Chippewa. 

Only 2 ho'uses remained in Buffalo after the British attack in 1813, but its re- 
building began in 1815, and in 1818 the IValJc-in-thc-Water, the first steamer on 
Lake Erie, was built at Black Rock. The harbor was constructed by the citizens 
in 1820, and in 1827 the U. S. Gov't built the piers. The city has continued to 
grow in wealth and poi>ulation since the completion of the Erie Canal (1825). In 
1820 it had 2,095 inhabitants ; in 1840, 18,213 ; in 1860, 81,129 ; in 1870, 117,178 ; 
and iu 1874 (estimated), 160,000. 

The Lake Shore and Michigan SoiUhern R. R. 
runs W. from Buffalo to Dunkirk, 40 M. ; Erie, 88 ; Painesville, 154 ; Cleveland, 
183 ; Toledo, 296 ; and Chicago, 540 (20-22 hrs.). Fare from Buffalo to Chicago, 
$15.50. The train runs S. from Buffalo, near the lake, but not generally in sight 
of it. Beyond Hamburgh-on-the-Lake, it passes Angola, and crosses Cattaraugus 
Creek at Irving. At Dunkirk (see page 231) the Erie Railway comes in from 
the E.. and the Dunkirk, Wan-en and Pittsburgh R. R. from the S. At Brocton., 
the Buffalo, Corry, and Pittslnirgh R. R. comes in from the S. The train now 
passes the populous village of Westfield, and enters Pennsylvania beyond the sta,- 
tion of Ripley, traversing the town of North East, about 1 M. from Lake Erie. 
North East Borough (Dnm^nn Hnvsp) has 2,000 inhabitants, and is situated among 
extensive vineyards. The South Shore vineyards are ^ M. N., and produce 20,000 



CHAUTAUQUA LAKE. Route 84. 237 



gallons of wine j'early. Beyond the hamlets of Harbor Creek and Wesleyville the 
city of Erie is entered. The line tlien follows the lake shore, and at a short dis- 
taiice beyond Fairview it enters the .State of Ohio. 

34. New York to Ohio. 

By the Erie and the Atlantic and Great Western Railways. The Erie Railway 
from New York to Salamanca, see pages 219-231. The Atlantic and Great 
Western Railway runs W. from Salamanca, and is one of the main first-class routes 
to the Western States. Stations. —Salamanca, 413 M. from New York ; Red 
House, 420 ; Steamburg, 425 ; R;indolph, 431 ; Kennedy, 438 ; Jamestown, 447 ; 
Ashville, 454 ; Panama, 458 ; Grant, 461 ; Freehold, 464 ; Columbus, 471 ; Corry, 
474 ; Union, 485 ; Mill Village, 492 ; Millers, 498 ; Cambridge, 501 ; Venango, 505 ; 
Saegertown, 509 ; Meadville, 515 ; Suttons, 523 ; Evansburg, 529 ; Atlantic, 534 ; 
Greenville, 542 : Shenango, 544 ; Clarksville, 548 ; Orangeville, 554 ; Akron, 615 ; 
Marion, 717 ; Dayton, 802 ; Cincinnati, 861 ; St. Louis, 1,201. 

The train follows the valley of the Allegany River S. W. from Sala- 
manca, then runs through the forest towns of Cold Spring, Randolph, and 
Poland; enters the Conewango Valley, and reaches Jamestown (Gifford 
House ; Atnerican ; Jamestown). This is a thriving town of 5,336 in- 
habitants, with 8 churches (2 Swedish), 3 banks, and 3 newspapers, while 
large factories are located on the rapids of the Chautauqua Outlet. There 
are also considerable exports of dairy products, and much of the freight- 
ing hence is done by boats on the Conewango and Allegany Rivers. The 
town was settled by men of New England (in 1812), and was named in 
honor of its proprietor, Judge Jatnes Prendergast. Chautauqua Lake 
is 18 M. long and 1-3 M. wide; and is surrounded by liills 5-600 ft. 
liigh. It is 1,291 ft. above the sea (the highest navigable water on the 
continent), and the name signifies " a foggy place," indicating one of its 
characteristics. A steamer runs semi-daily from Jamestown up the out- 
let and lake, to Mayville (22 M. ), passing the hamlet of Fluvanna on 
the r., as the lake is entered. After running N. W. 8 M., Bemus Point 
seems to close the passage in advance, but is rounded by a narrow strait 
which, after 2-3 M. of sinuous course, leads to another open reach of the 
lake stretching from Magnolia (W. shore) N. W. in 7-8 M. to Mayville 
{Chautauqua Lake House ; Fox House). This hamlet is the cai)ital of 
Chautauqua County, and has 3 churches and 2 newspapers. It is favorably 
situated near the head of the lake (and on the B., C & P. R. R.), and has 
many summer visitors. 

The train runs S. W. from Jamesto\^^^, and Pennsylvania is entered 
beyond Ashville and Panama. At Corry tlie line intersects the Alle- 
gheny Valley, Buffalo, Corry and Pittsburgh, and Philadelphia and 
Erie R. Rs., and its course lies near the latter road for 12 M., when 
it diverges to the S. W. and passes down the French Creek Valley to 
Venango and Saegertown, in the famous Penn. oil district. Meadville 
{McHenry Hoii.se ; Colt House ; Rupp's) is pleasantly located in a valley 
on tlie E. side of Venango River, and lias large machine-works and woollen 



238 Route 35. MEADVILLE. 

mills, together with the workshops of the A. & G. W. Railway. The busi- 
ness part of the city is substantially built, and there are 2 banks and 15 
churches. The pleasant Greendale Cemetery is in the suburbs. There is 
a small Opera-House, and a public library (in -Porter's Block). The city 
was founded and fortified by Gen. David Mead (in 1789) on the old war- 
trail between Forts Venango and Lebojuf. In 181G it had 400 inhabitants; 
in 1860, 3,702; and in 1870, 7,103. Allegheny College is situated on a 
hill N. of the city, and has 3 buildings, 7 professors, and 130 students. It 
was opened in 1816 under the care of the Presbyterian Church, and was 
built up by the exertions of its president, Timothy Alden, D. D. He se- 
cured mucli aid from New England, and brouglit here the private libraries 
of Judge Winthrop and Isaiah Thomas. He procured also the large and 
valuable library of Dr. Bentley (of Salem, Mass. ), whose portrait is now 
in the hall of the Allegheny Literary Society. In 1833 the then languish- 
ing college was transferred to the care of the Methodist Church, and is 
now in a thriving condition. Ladies are admitted to the full course. The 
Meadville Theological School was established in 184-4, and pei'tains to 
moderate Unitarianism, It has 7 professors, and a library of 9,000 vol- 
umes. A branch R. R. runs S. E. from Meadville down the valley of 
French Creek to Franklin (28 M.) and Oil City (36 M.). 

The train runs S. from Meadville, and soon leaves the French Creek, 
turning W. to Evansburg, 2 M. S. of tlie hamlet of Evansburg {Lake 
House), which is on the S. shore of Conneaut Lake, a beautiful sheet of 
water 4 x 2 M. in extent. It abounds in fish, and is famed for an 
abundance of double white pond-lilies. Running now to the S. W. near 
the Erie Canal of Penn., the line soon crosses the Jamestown and Frank- 
lin Div. of the Lake Shore R. R. At the populous borough of Greenville 
it meets the Erie and Pittsburgh and the Shenango and Allegheny R. Rs., 
then passes out across the town of Pymatuning, and enters, the State of 
Ohio beyond the station of Orangeville, 307 M. N. E. of Cincinnati. 

35. New York to Scranton and Oswego. The Delaware 
Water Gap. 

By the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western R. R. , from the foot of Barclay 
St. or Christopher St., N. Y. City, to the terminal station on the N. J. shore; 
thence to Scranton, in 6^ hrs ; to Bingham ton, in 10 hrs. ; to Utica, in 13 hrs. ; 
to Oswego, in 15^ hrs. Fares from N. Y. to Orange, SOc. ; to Mori-istown, 80c. ; 
to Hackettstown, !$ 1.70 ; to Easton, .^2.25. 

Stations. — New York ; Hoboken, 2 M. (Boonton Branch. Kingsland, 5 ; 
Rutherfurd Park, 9; Delawanna, 11; Passaic, 12; Clifton, 14; Paterson, 17; 
Beavertown, 25 ; Whitehall, 27 ; Montville, 29 ; Boonton, 32 ; Denville, 37). Main 
Line. Hoboken, 2 ; Newark, 10 ; Orange, 13 ; S. Orange, 15 ; Milbiirn, 19 ; Summit, 
22 : Chatham, 25 ; Madison, 27 ; Morristown, 31 ; Morris Plains, 34 ; Denville, 38 ; 
Rookaway, 40 ; Dover, 43 ; Drakesville, 48 ; Stanhope, 53 ; Waterloo, 56 ; Hack- 
ettstown,' 62 ; Port Mnrray, 68 ; Washington, 71 (Easton, 85) ; Oxford Furnace, 75 ; 
Bridgeville, 80 ; Manunka Chunk, 82 ; Delaware, 84 ; Portland, 87 ; Water Gap, 
92 ; Stroudsburg, 96 ; Henry\'ille, 104 ; Oakland, 109 ; Forks ; Tobyhauna, 122 ; 



ORANGE. Route 35. 239 

Gonldsboro', 128 ; Moscow, 136; Duiining's, 130; Scran ton, 149 (branch to North- 
umberland, 229) ; xVbiugton, 159 ; Factnrjnille, 164 ; Nicholson, 170 ; Hopbottora, 
176 ; Montrose, 1S3 ; New Milford, 190 ; Great Bend, 196 ; Binghamton, 210 
(branch to Utica, 305) ; Chenango, 217 ; Chenango Forks, 221 ; "Whitney's Point, 
231 ; Lisle, 233 ; Marathon, 240 ; State Bridge, 245 ; Cortland, 254 ; Homer, 257 ; 
Preble, 264 ; Tully, 269 ; Apulia, 271 ; Onativia, 276 : Jamesville, 283 ; Syracuse, 
290 ; Baldwinsville, 302 ; Lamson's, 308 ; Fulton, 314 ; Oswego, 325. 

Morris and Essex Division. 

To Easton, 85 M. ; trains in 4 - 4^ hrs. The passenger leaves New 
York by ferry-boat, and takes the train at Hoboken, whence the Bergen 
Tunnel is traversed. (A new tunnel is being cut at great expense for the 
Morris and Essex R. R.) The Hackensack River and wide marshes are 
crossed, and beyond the Passaic River tlie train stops at Newark (see 
Route 37). A branch railway runs hence through the popxilous town of 
Bloomfield, with its paper and hat factories, to Montclair, 6 M. N. W. 
Just beyond Newark the train enters Orange {Park House ; Central 
Hotel), a city of 15,000 inhabitants. The streets are wide and well 
shaded, and contain many costly villas of New York merchants. Near 
the Orange station are the buildings of the Pres. Church, High School, 
and Library. Horse-cars run to Newark (3 M.), and there are 2 railroads 
to New York (12 M.), affording frequent and quick access to that city. 
To the W. is Llewelyn Park, a district of villas and elegant mansions 
arranged about a pleasant park called the Ramble. Above this point, 
and W. of the city, is the long ridge of Orange Mt., on whose crest are 
the estates of Gens. MoClellan, Marcy, and other eminent men. There 
are beautiful views from various points on the ridge, — especially from 
the vicinity of Eagle Rock, whence N. Y. City, with its bay and suburbs, 
is overlooked. 

Passing S. through Montrose {* S. Orange Mt. Hoicse); S. Orange, 
near the Catholic college of Seton Hall : and Maplewood, with their 
homes of N. Y. merchants, the line turns W. and crosses the N. J. W. 
R. R. near Milburn. With Springfield Mt. on the 1. and the Short Hills 
on the r., the train ascends long grades to Summit {* Summit House; 
Pierre House), a summer resort on the Second Mt. On the r. are seen 
Boonton, Chatham, and Morristown ; and on the I. are Elizabeth and the 
fertile plains of Union County, with Springfield near at hand in the S. E. 

June 23, 1780, 5-6,000 British troops, with 20 cannon, advanced from Eliza- 
bethtown to Springfield, intending to cut through the discouraged Continentals 
and break up the camps at Morristown. They were met here, at the passes of 
the Short Hills , by Gen. Greene and the N. J. militia, and a sharp engagement 
ensued. The enemy carried the village of Springfield and destroyed it ; but the 
Americans formed on the Short Hills and checked the farther advance of the ex- 
pedition, which retreated hastily to Elizabethtown. 

Recrossing the N. J W. R. R. and the Passaic River, beyond Chatham 

the train descends through the hills to Madison, the seat of the Drew 



240 Route 35. MORRISTOWN. 

Theological Seminary, a Methodist institi\tion occupying several small 

buildings in a tree-studded park of 200 acres. Beyond the station near 

the Convent of St. Elizabeth, the train reaches Morristown {Park House ; 

Grand View ; U. S. ; Mansion), the capital of Morris County. It is 

beautifully situated on a high plateau near the VVhippany River, and is a 

favorite summer resort for New-Yorkers. Tlie new and superb State 

Insane Asylum is on Pigeon Mountain. It cost $3,000,000, and is 

built of granite, in semi-Gothic architecture. On a high knoll back 

of the court-house are the remains of the ancient Revolutionary Fort 

Nonsense ; and the pretty Lake Speedwell is near the village. The 

park is adonied'with a soldiers' monument ; and h, M. E. is the ancient 

building of Washington'' s Head-quarters, now owned by the State. 

In the winter of 1777-78 the American army was encamped about Morristown, 
the main force being at Spring Valley (the Indian Lowantica), S. E. of the village. 
On the Short Hills, by Cliatliam, were guarded beacons; and by Summit were 
strong picket-lines, to watch the British in N. Y. The head-quarters were on the 
village park, and here Washington was initiated into the Masonic order. In the 
winter of 1779 - SO the army was again quartered about Morristown ; and Wash- 
ington occnpied the Ford luansion (now sacredly preserved), about which his 
body-guard was encamped. The main body was cantonned toward Mendham ; 
and the soldiers were engaged in building Fort Nonsense, to avert the evil conse- 
quences of idleness. Tlie sutTerings from cold and hunger were intense ; but "as 
an army, they bore it Avitli the most heroic patience." The forces were reviewed 
with great pomp, in Ajiril, 1780, by the ambassadors of France and Spain, the 
latter of whom, Don Juan de Miralles, died here soon afterward, and received a 
stately burial in the village churchyard. The only i-evolt in the continental army 
took place here early in 1780, when the Penn. line (2,000 soldiers), being unpaid 
and held in service after their time had expired, rose against their officers and 
marched to Princeton, where they were paid and disbanded by order of Congre.ss. 

The train runs N. from Morristown, with Watnong Mt. on the 1., passes 

Morris Plains, and meets the Boonton Branch at Denville. 

The Boonton Branch. 
The through express trains run over this route. Passengers leave N. Y. 
by ferry from Barclay St. or Christopher St.; and beyond the Bergen 
Tunnel the train diverges to the r. from the Morris and Essex R. R., and 
runs N. W. across the marshes, leaving Snake Hill on the 1. Cros.sing 
the Hackensack and Passaic Rivers, several rural stations are passed, and 
the line reaches Paterson (see page 220). Thence the course is to the 
W., and into the highlands. Passing along the S. verge of the Pompton 
Plains, with the Towakhow Mt. on the 1., the Morris Canal is followed 
to Boonton {U. S. Hotel), a village of 4,000 inhabitants. It is situated 
among craggy and rugged highlands, and is the seat of several iron- 
furnaces, which are siipplied from the prolific mines in the vicinity. 
There are large nail-works and rolling-mills near Boonton, and the Morris 
Canal here rises over inclined planes. The ancient hamlet of Parcipany 
is 4 M. S. , and the Rockaway Valley is in the N. W. The train runs W. 
from Boonton to Denville, where it passes on to the rails of the Morris 



LAKE HOPATCONG. Route 35. 241 

and Essex R. R. At Rockaway a branch track runs N. to the extensive 
Hibernia and Beach Glen mines. Station, Dover {Mansion House), a 
small city engaged in the iron manufacture. A branch track runs S. 
through a mining country, and passing Ferromonte, Ironia, and the 
Succasuna Plains, to Chester, a pleasant village among the hills (summer 
board at the Young Ladies' Institute). Beyond Dover another branch 
runs N. to the mines at Mt. Hope ; and the Brookland Mts. are seen on 
the r. as the train passes along the Rockaway River to Drakesville, 
whence stages run 4 M. N. to Lake Hopatcong, a loftily situated lake 
(720 ft. above the Hudson) among the Brookland Mts. It is 9 M. long 
and 4 M. wide, and has 2 islands (Canfield and Halsey), which are much 
visited. The waters contain pickerel, perch, and salmon-trout, and the 
shores are lined with forests (among whicli are iron-mines). From South- 
ard's Peak the country is overlooked from the Bloomfteld Mts. to the 
Delaware Water Gap. The name Hopjatcong means " Stone over Water," 
and was probably given by the Indians on account of an ancient stone 
causeway (now submerged) leading from a large Indian village to one of 
the islands; but the lake is locally known as Brookland Pond. 2 small 
steamers ply on its waters, and summer visitors are accommodated by 
several hotels {Lake Hopatcong House ; Lake Vieio, etc.). Station, Port 
Moms, in the gap between Schooley's Mt. and Brookland Mt., an im- 
portant point for the trans-shipment of coal, and near long inclined planes 
on the Morris Canal, up which the boats are drawn by powerful stationary 
engines. The Ogden Mine R. R. is being built from this point along 
Lake Hopatcong to the iron-mines, 15 M. N. From StanJwpe station 
stages run 2^ M. N. to Lake Senecawana (Budd's Lake), a beautiful 
sheet of water well up among the highlands. It is nearly round, and is 
3^ M. in circumference, lined with foliage and arable slopes, and affords 
pretty mt. views. Tlie clear waters are the abode of many tish, and the 
pursuit of pickerel is a favorite pastime here, while many pond-lilies are 
found over the shallows. The lake is 1,200 ft. high, and its secluded 
beauty, together with the ease of access, have made it a favorite summer 
resort (* Forest House, 200 guests, |3 a day, $15-21 a week). Lake 
Hopatcong is visited from this point, and Schooley's Mt. is 8 M. distant. 

The train passes from Stanhope to Waterloo, a small hamlet S. E. of 
Pohatcong Mt., whence the Sussex R. R. runs N. to Newton {Cochran 
House; Willard House), the capital of Sussex County, On and about 
the public square are 5 churches and tlie Court House, and to the W. is 
the Collegiate Institute. By reason of its lofty situation and clear air, 
Newton is much visited in summer. The Sussex R. R. passes on to 
Franklin, where it meets the Midland R. R. (see page 215). 

Leaving Alamuche Mt. on the r., tlie line runs S. W. down the narrow 
and fertile Musconetcong Valley alongside of the Morris and Essex Canal, 
11 ' P 



242 Route 35. SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN. 

to Hackettstown {American House; Warren), a borough of 3,000 in- 
habitants, iu a rich farming country. Schooley's Mountain is 3-4 M. 
S. E. of tliis place (stages frequently), and is about 1,200 ft. high. In a 
glade on the W. declivity, f M. from the hotels, and near the summit, is a 
celebrated chalybeate spring, containing carbonated oxide of iron, muriates 
of soda, lime, and magnesia, sulphate of lime, etc. The water is pleasant 
to the taste, and is a line tonic, being also beneficial in cases of dyspeptic 
and calculous troubles. The discharge of the water is small, and the spring 
is protected by a neat canopy. The purity of the highland air, and tlie 
picturesque scenery in the vicinity, attract many summer visitors to this 
point. The * Heath House and * Bcimont Hall are the pi'incipal hotels, 
and are largely patronized by New-Yorkers. 

Malvern Hill is seen to the W. of Hackettstown, as the train follows 
the canal and river to the S. W. Beyond the hamlet of Port Murray, it 
reaches Washington ( Union Hotel), a pretty and prosperous village in a 
fertile farming country. The Morris and Essex R. R. runs thence 14 M. 
S. W. by Stewartsville to Phillipsburg and Easton. The train now passes 
on to the rails of the Del., Lack. & Western R. R., and runs N. W. to 
Oxford Furnace and Bridgeville; then traverses the Voss Gap Tunnel 
through Manunka Chunk Mt. (1,000 ft. long) and meets the Belvidere 
Delaware R. R. (Route 44) at Manunka Chunk. At Delaware station 
time is usually given for lunch, and then the train crosses the Delaware 
River and enters the State of Pennsylvania. Portland station is opposite 
the N. J. hamlet of Columbia, and the line passes on by Slateford (large 
slate quarries), with the Blue Mts. closing in ahead. The Water Gap is 
now entered, and is traversed on a narrow gallery between the river and 
the mt. (the views on the r. are preferable). The train soon stops at the 
station for the 

Delaware Water Gap. 

Hotels. — * Water Gap House, on the summit of Sunset Hill, a new house for 
300 guests, $ 4 a day, ;;? 21 a weelc ; * Kittatiny House, $ 18 a week ; and several sum- 
mer boarding-liouses, — the Glenwood, above the village, the Mountain House 
($ 10 - 12 a week), the Analomink, Maple Cottage, Cataract, Highland Dell, and 
others. 

Bailroads. —To New York, by the Morris & Essex R. R. (without change, 
in 3.^ hrs.) ; fare, $ 2.55. To Pliiladelphia, in 4 hrs. ; fare, $ 2.95. Row-boats and 
guides at the landing below the Kittatiny House. Photographs of the scenery at 
Graves's, near the Kittatiny. 

At the Delaware Water Gap the Delaware River passes through a nar- 
row defile of the Kittatiny Mts., which attain a height of 1,600 ft. on 
either side. As the stream flows down from the Minisink Valley and 
reaches the great barrier of the Blue Ridge, it makes a sudden bend to the 
E. and passes between the craggy portals of the Gap, where its waters 
are 60 ft. deep. The Indians called the country N. of this point the 
Minisink (meaning "the water is gone "), evidently in reference to some 



DELAWARE WATER GAP. Route 35. 243 

ancient tradition of a lake-like expanse of water occupying the place. 
The existence of high marine terraces, alluvial hills, and the water-worn 
rocks on the heights, seem to favor this belief. There are several theories 
as to the formation of the Gap, — that the ridge at this place sank down 
into immense caverns; that the lake burst the barrier by its pressure; 
or that the mountain -dam was slowly Avorn away by a Niagara-like cata- 
ract. Of late years the Water Gap has become a popular summer resort, 
owing to the unique character of its scenery, and to its vicinity to the two 
chief cities of the Republic. 

Blockhead Mt. is a long secondary range on the E. shore, which lies 
across and partially hides the Gap from the hotels. The best near view 
of the chasm is gained by descending the river in a boat to Mather's 
Spring (1^ M. from the hotels; on the N. J, shore). The Cold Air Cave 
and Benner's Spring are each If M. from the hotels (by river) ; and In- 
dian Ladder Bluff, the Point of Rocks, and tlie Slate Factory are oft- 
visited localities along the shores. The Indian Ladder Bluff is a promon- 
tory at the foot of Mt. Tammany, over which the ancient Indian path 
was carried by means of steps cut in the rock and a tree laid against one 
of the precipitous sides. Mt. Minsi is on the W. (Penn.) side of the 
Gap, and Mt. Tammany is on the E. (N. J.). The latter summit is 
ascended (2| M. from the hotels) by a rugged path beginning near the 
Slate Factory, and gives a broad view. A suspension-bridge 1,500 ft. higli 
is to be built from Minsi to Tammany. 

This mt. is named in honor of Tammany, or Tamanend, an ancient Delaware 
cliief, who was renowned for wisdom, virtue, and charity. Howbeit without the 
sanction of the church, this pagan sage was canonized during the last century, 
and was proclaimed the patron saint of America. His festival was on the first of 
May, when numerous societies which bore his name and admired his virtues were 
wont to assemble in their wigwams to smoke the calumet of peace and pass the 
day in merry-making. These societies afterward became political bodies, in 
which capacity one of them has acquired a wide notoriety. 

Pleasant views of the river and Gap are gained from the road near the 
hotels, and also from the Water Gap Hotel on Sunset Hill (froni whose 
tower Cherry Valley and the Shawnee Hills are overlooked). A few rods 
distant from either hotel is the small pool called Lake Lenape, from which 
the Caldeno Creek flows down by the Kittatiny House. Turning to the 
\. from the lake, and following a path marked by white lines on rocks and 
trees, the hill is ascended by a steep and devious path to Cooper's Cliff, 
500 ft. above the river. The white lines conduct along the E. edge of the 
ridge to Table Rock (| M. from the hotel), whence extensive views are 
afforded. Thence the white lines lead in \ M. to the upper glen of Cal- 
deno Creek, which slides down Table Rock for 100 ft. at an angle of 45°. 
Among the trees and mosses of this glen is the deep rock-basin known as 
Diana's Bath, below which are the Caldeno Falls. 

The summit of Mt. Minsi is 3 M, from the hotels, and commands the 



244 Route 35. DELAWARE WATER GAP. 

most extensive prospect in this district, — embracing the N. valley with 
its surrounding mts. and bright river (with the Pokono and Schooley's 
Mts. in the distance), and also the great plains and ranges to the S., with 
many villages and farms. This peak is often visited, and is reached by a 
broad forest-path which passes behind the Kittatiny bowling-alley, and is 
marked by red lines on rocks and trees. After crossing a grassy meadow 
and ascending a low ridge, a path (marked with blue lines) diverges to 
the 1. to the cliff called Lover'' s Leap (1 M. from the hotels). The tradi- 
tion states that. Winona, a beautiful princess of the Delawares, leaped 
from this cliff and was dashed to pieces on the rocks below ; being heart- 
sick because her love for a young European was not duly reciprocated. 
Tiie * view of the Gap from this point is held to be the finest, and forms a 
favorite study for artists. \ M. beyond the entrance to the Lover's Leap, 
a white-lined path diverges to the r. to the Hunter's Spring, a sequestered 
forest-fountain. The Mt. Minsi (red-lined) path continues beyond the 
entrance to this point, and the next path to the 1. (yellow-lined) leads to 
Prospect Rock (1| M. from the hotels). The view to the N. is broad and 
pleasing. 1^ M. beyond is the summit of Mt. Minsi, with its view over 
3,000 square M., in 5 counties. Rebecca's Bath, Eureka Falls, and Mo.ss 
Grotto are on a brook which crosses the road to tlie Gap, \ M. S. of the 
hotels. At the entrance to the village are the Methodist Church (r.) and 
the Church of the Mts. (1.), and Mt. Caroline rises behind the latter to a 
height which overlooks Cherry Valley and the Shawnee Hills. Tlie 
Lover's Retreat is on the cliff over the Kittatiny House, and is much fre- 
quented on account of its retired beauty and pleasant views over the 
river. 

Cherry Valley runs W. at right angles with the Delaware, and is 35 
M. long, its upper portion being called Aquonshicola. Stroudsburg is 4 
M. from the hotels, and midway the long ridge called Fox Hill is crossed, 
yielding panoramic valley-views. There is a pleasant drive up the Valley 
for 6 M. to Crystal Hill. The Buttermilk and the Marshall Falls are 
respectively 3 M. and 7 M. distant, and at high water are worthy of a 
visit. Transue's K)iob, on the Shawnee Hills, 6 M. distant, is a tall 
diluvial pyramid which commands extensive views, and Castle Rock is in 
the same range of hills (4 M. distant). The Lake of the Mt. is situated 
on the summit of one of the New Jersey ridges, 4 M. from the hotels, and 
is f M. long. The circuit of the N. J. Hills is a favorite drive, and is 
made by ferrying across the river 3 M. below the Gap, following the river- 
road on the 1. bank for 6 M. N., and then recrossing at Shawnee village. 
The distance is about 12 M. 

The valley of the Minisink is sometimes ascended by carriages, over 
firm and level roads leading through pleasing scenery. 10 M. over the 
river-road, and 3 M. over the Shawnee Hills, leads to Bushkill ( Perry's 



STROUDSBURG. Route 35. 245 

Hotel), near which are the Bushkill Falls (96 ft higli), and the Winona 
Fall, with its 5 sister-cascades. 13 M. beyond Bushkill is Dinyman's 
Ferry (High-Falls House), near some pretty waterfalls, and 8 M. farthcj- is 
Milford, a favorite summer-resort, 8 M. from Port Jervis. The Blntr 
House is a new summer-hotel, commanding a grand view of the valley. 

The Minisink Avas the Indian name for the Delaware Valley N. of the Water 
Gap, and this region was inhabited by the Minsi tribe of the Leni Lenape (or 
Delaware) nation. They were a brave, honest, and religious people, and received 
the Moravian niissionar'ies gladly. In 1725 white settlers entered the valley, and 
by a series of discreditable transactions acquired much land from the natives. In 
1742 the chief Teedyuscung gathered the remnants of the Delaware tribes and led 
them to Wyoming, whence they migrated to Ohio some years later. Settlers en- 
tered the Minisink from the Hudson Valley and from Philadelphia, and the Shaw- 
nee Hills were occupied by a colony of Germans. In 1730 the Gap was traversed 
by provincial officers, and in 175^3 a house was built here by M. Dutot, a French 
gentleman. In 1800 a road was built through the Gap, although most of the 
traffic to Philadelphia was done by Durham boats, — long and narrow vessels like 
canal-boats, propelled by poles. The river navigation has long since ceased, and 
the railroad forms an easier route of supplies for the increasing population of the 
valley. 

" The masses of naked rocks, on the E. side of the river toward the S. gorge, 
rising to an elevation of 800- 1,000 ft., in some places as upright an<l smooth as 
though a creation of art, and at others spiked, ragged, and frowning, are comi)ara- 

tively undistinguishable while obscured by the raven wing of night But 

tiie best position for surveying the whole pass, and enjoying its sublinnty to entire 
satisfaction, is from a small boat paddled along leisurely upon the river through 
the gulf. The maps furnish no just idea of the channel of the river through tlie 
gap, — the actual course resembling the sharp curvatures of an angry serpent be- 
fore he is coiled, or rather, perhaps, this section of the river would be best de- 
lineated by a line like a letter S. The general height of the nit. barriers is about 
1,600 ft. They are all very precipitous, and while sailing along their bases in a 
skiff, their dreadful summits seem actually to hang beetling over the head. This 
is especially the case with the Jersey mts.,— the surfaces of which, next the 
river, as already stated, are of bare rocks, lying in regular blocks, in long ranges, 
as even as though hewn, and laid in stratifications like stupendous masonry, — ' the 
masonry of God.' .... The scenerj' of the Water Gap, as a whole, and as a point 
of attraction for the lovers of Nature in her wildness and grandeur, by far tran- 
scends the Highlands of Hudson's River, or even the yet more admired region of 
the Horicon." (Stone.) 

Beyond the Water Gap the line traverses a costly cutting in the flinty 
ledge known as Rock Difficult ; passes the Analomink House, and reaches 
Stroudsburg. The village is in a pleasant valley 1 M. S. of the station 
(horse-cars) and is an attractive place with 1,800 inhabitants, and the 
buildings of Monroe County. 1^ M. distant (and 4 M. from the Water 
Gap) is the sumnjer hotel known as the Highland Dell House (100 guests), 
700 ft, above the valley. Stroudsburg Avas founded by Col. Stroud ou 
the site of Fort Hamilton, a frontier-post of Penn. in the French and In- 
dian war (1755 - 63) ; and to this point fled great numbers of people after 
the Massacre of Wyoming (1778). The train now runs up the fertile 
Minisink Valley to Spragueville, where the long ascent of the Pocono Mts. 
is begim. The grade for 25 M. averages 65 ft. to the M., and the line 
traverses a forest-clad wilderness, with occasional hamlets clustered about 
saw-mills or tanneries. The great Allegheny ridge is rapidly ascended ; 



246 Route 35. SCRANTON. 

and, beyond Henm'ille and Oakland, a grand view is afforded to the r., 
including the Water Gap and tlie Blue Mts. Beyond Paradise the Pocono 
Tunnel is traversed (near the summit). 

" When the suniniit of Pokono is gained, the traveller is upon the top of that 
wild and desolate table of Penn. extending for upwards of 100 M. between and 
parallel with the Delaware and Susquehanna Rivers, and 20-30 M. in breadth. 
Behinil him is a nolile landscape of wooded hills and cultivated valleys bounded 
E. and S. by the Blue Mts., which form a branching range of the AUeghanies. 
The Wind Gap is distinctly and beautifully in sight." (Stone.) 

After a broad curve to the \V, and S. W. (Pocono) Forks is reached, 
and the line runs thence N. W. to TohyJmnna, a small hamlet where the 
descending grade commences. Passing Gouldsborough and Moscow 
{Moscow Hotel), tlie valley of Roaring Brook is entered. Many sports- 
men visit this district for the sake of the fine trout-fishing. At Dunning's 
the gravity road of the Penn. Coal Co.'s R. R. is seen on the r., coming in 
from Hawley. Steam is now shut off on the locomotive and the brakes 
are kept in application, as long down-grades are traversed, and soon the 
Lackawanna Valley opens below, and the train descends to the city of 

Scranton. 

Hotels. — * Lackawanna Valley House, opposite the station, $3 a day ; * Wj'o- 
ming House. Horse-Cars. — On Penn, Wyoming, and Madison Aves. ; and to tl-o 
suburbs of Hvde Park, Providence, Ulyphant, Greenridgc, and Dunmore. ii'«(7- 
roarfs. —The Del., I^ack. & Western, to N. Y., 149 M., — to Binghamtou, 61 M. ; 
the Lehigh & Susquehanna, to Wilkcsbarre (19 M.)an(l Philadelphia, 162 M. ; the 
Lackawanna & BloomsVjurg, to Northumberland, 80 M. 

Scranton is a large modeni city occupying the plateau at the confluenco 
of the Roaring Brook and the Lackawanna River. It is handsomely laid 
out with wide straight avenues, but presents a sombre appearance and 
has long and straggling suburbs. It has 35,092 inhabitants, with 3 daily 
papers, 7 banks, and 31 churches (of which 5 arc German and 7 are 
Welsh). Lackawanna Ave. is the chief business street, and has several 
fine commercial buildings ; and Penn and Wyoming Aves. are also de- 
voted to trade. The city has 4 academies ; is illuminated by gas and re- 
ceives a good water-supply. Tlie immense railroad round-house is one 
of the most prominent objects on the plateau ; about which extend broad 
networks of tracks and large workshops. In the low valleys about the 
plateau ai-e large manufacturing works. Forest Hill Cemetery is beyond 
the suburb of Dunmore, and is a well-arranged burying-groimd (reached 
by the Dunmore horse-cars). Pleasant views of tlie city are afforded 
from the highlands of Dunmore and Hyde Park. From the N. streets of 
Scranton are seen the collieries across the vallej'" of Pine Creek, with 
their connecting railroads and great mounds of coal-dust. 

The site of Scranton was occupied by the Slocum farm from 1708 to 1840, when 
it was bought by George and Selden Scranton, who erected a blast-funmce here. 
In 1844 they started a rolling-mill, and in 1844 began to make great quantities of 
T rails. In 1856 the railroad was carried tlirough from Gieat Bend to the Water 



RICHFIELD SPRINGS. Roxde 35. 247 

Gap ; and since that day the place has grown rapidly. In 1866 it was made a 
rity. There were 3 houses here in 1810 ; in 1853 there were 3,000 inhabitants ; 
and in 1870 there were 35,092 (many of whom are foreigners). The Dickson MTg 
Co. ha.s !$ 600,000 capital, and makes locomotives and engines; and the Moosic 
Powder Co. has extensive works. The iron-works form a weird sight by night, 
wlien the chimneys belch forth great sheets of fire. These works employ 1,200 
men and consume 100,000 tons of coal yearly, making 70,000 tons of iron. The 
engines are of colossal dimensions, and are worthy of inspection. 

The train runs out from Scranton to the N. ; crosses the Lackawanna 
River ; and passes several great coal-breakers. Leaving Providence on 
the r,, it passes through Leggett's Gap, in the Capouse Mt., and crosses 
the productive town of Abington. Factoryvillc is a thriving mill-village, 
beyond which the Tunkhannock Mt. is again approached. Tlie line now 
runs N. across the thinly populated county of Susquehanna. Montrose 
is 6 M. S. E. of the village of the same name, the county shire-town, 
which is connected by a narrow-gauge railroad with Tunkhannock. Tlie 
train now runs N. by cold and arid highlands to Great Bend, on tlie 
Susquehanna River (see page 225). From this point it traverses the 
broad intervales on the 1. bank of the river for 12 M., with the Erie 
Railw^ay on the opposite shore ; crosses the Susquehanna, and enters 
Binghamton (see page 226). 

The Utica Division. 
From Binghamton the line follows the Chenango River to Chenango 
Forks, whence the Utica Division diverges to the N. E., passing across 
the hilly town of Greene and approaching the Midland R. R. at Oxford. 
Stations, Norwich and Earlville, see page 216. The train now passes 
several rural stations in Madison and Oneida Counties, and reaches Utica 
in 95 M. from Binghamton. 

Bichfield Springs. 

Hotels. — * Spring House (500 guests) and * American House, each $18-20 a 
week ; National ; Hosford's ; International ; Davenport ; Central ; Derthick ; the 
Tunnicliff Cottages ; and several first-class boarding-houses at $10-15 a week. 

Railroads. — From Utica (see page 166) in 35 M., and from Binghamton in 
103 M., by the D., L. & W. R. R. (branch line diverging from Cassville). Stages to 
Schuyler Lake every 30 min. (in summer), and 4 times daily to Otsego Lake (see 
page 324), i)assing the Twin Lakes, and connecting with the lake-steamers ; con- 
necting also at Springfield Centre with stages for Cherry Valley and Sharon Springs. 

Richfield Springs is a pleasant village of Otsego County, with 4 churches, 
a weekly paper, and hotel accommodations for 2.500 guests. It is situated 
in a rich land of dairy-farms, and pleasant views are enjoyed from the 
neighboring hills (especially from Sunset Hill, 3 M. to the E., and from 
Prospect and S. View Hills). There are 17 springs near the village, the 
favorite of which is on the Spring House grounds, near Main St. The 
analysis shows in each gallon 30 grains of the bi-carbonates of lime and 
magnesia, 50 of the sulphates of lime and magnesia, and 27 cubic inches 
of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. Like most sul].hui waters, these are .at 



24a Route 35. SCHUYLER LAKE. 

first disagreeable to the taste, but are said to be very beneficial in aiuelio' 
rating cutaneous disorders. It is 28 M. from Richfield to Sharon Sjirings, 
7 M. to Otsego Lake, and 12 M. around * Schuyler Lake, which is 1 M. 
from the village, and is bordered by a pleasant drive. The lake is 3^ M. 
long, and is surrounded by sloping hills, the chief of which is the far- 
viewing Oak Ridge. The Lake House is the chief of the lake-hotels, and 
is reached by way of Lake St. It is noted for its fish and game dinners/ 
and boats are furnished to visitors Avho wish to go out on the lake. 

The main line nins N. from Binghamton, and diverges from the Utica 
Division at Chenango Forks, following the Tioughnioga River across the 
towns of Barker and Lisle. Passing the neat villages of Whitney's Point 
and Marathon, it crosses the hilly region of Virgil, and stops at Cortland 
{Sjjerry House), the seat of a large State Normal Scliool. The village has 
3,100 inhabitants, 8 cliurches, and 3 papers, and is pleasantly situated on 
the Tioughnioga River. At this point the present route is intersected by 
the Utica, Ithaca and Elmira R. R. and a branch of the Midland R. R. 
The train runs N. by the flourishing village of Homer {Patten Hotel) 
and the Little York Lakes, passes Mt. Toppin and the Truxton Hills, 
and reaches Tully, near the Tully Lakes. 10-12 M. N. W, is Otisco 
Lake and the hamlet of Amber, while Glen Haven (on Skaneateles Lake) 
is 8-12 M. W. The tram now traverses the ridges of Fabius, and beyond 
Apulia reaches Lafayette. 

3 M. W. of Lafayette is the obscure hamlet of Cardiff, famous for the Cardiff 
Giant hoax, one of the most successful humbugs of the past decade. A gypsum 
statue lOj ft. long was found buried on a farm in this place (Oct. 16, 1869), and 
many of the foremost scientists and scholars of America certified that it was 
either a fossil man or a sculpture of great anticiuity. It was exhibited to wonder- 
ing and rever«nt crowds in the Atlantic cities, and brought large revenues to its 
proprietors ; but was afterwards discovered to have been quarried in Iowa a few 
months before, carved in Chicago, and sent East and buried at Cardiff, where its 
inventor soon afterwards resurrected it. 

The Onondaga Reservation is N. W. of Lafayette, and contains 6,100 acres, on 
which dwell about 400 half-breeds and Indians, the remnant of the sacerdotal 
tribe of the Onondagas. This tribe guarded the great council-fires and sacred 
places of the Six Nations, and were a peaceful and honored peoi)le (see page 170). 
In April, 1778, 558 soldiers of N. Y. fell upon the Onondaga towns near the lake, 
killed and captured many of the inhabitants, utterly destroyed all the viUages 
and supplies, and slaughtered all the live stock. In 1788 the tribe ceded all its 
domain to the State except 100 square M., and by the Treaty of 1822 the dwindling 
nation retired to its present limits. 

Beyond Lafayette the train reaches Jamesville, and runs thence across 
the Onondaga Valley to Syracuse (see page 168) From that city the line 
follows the W. shore of Onondaga Lake, affording views of the suburbs 
of Geddes and Salina and the great coal-depots of the D., L. & W. R. R. 
The level lands near the lake are covered with the vats of the solar salt- 
works. The line crosses the Seneca River, and traverses the level plains 
of Lysander, beyond which the Oswego River is followed for 17 M. to the 
city of Oswego (see page 217). 



BERGEN POINT. Route 36.. 249 

36. New York to Central Pennsylvania and the West 

The A llentown Line. 

By the Central R. R. of N. J. and connecting lines. From N. Y. to Easton in 
3i hrs. ; to AUentown, 4 hrs. ; to Harrisburg, 7 hrs. ; to Pittsburgh, 17 hrs. ; to 
Cincinnati, 30 hrs. ; to Chicago, 35 hrs. 

IStations. — New York ; Jersey City, 1 M. ; Bergen Point ; Elizabeth, 12 ; 
Roselle, 15 ; Crawford, 17 ; Westheld, 19 ; Fanwood, 22 ; Plaintield, 24 ; Dunellen. 
27 ; Bound Brook, 31 ; Sonierville, 36 ; Raritan, 37 ; North Branch, 41 ; White- 
house, 45; Lebanon, 50 ; Annandale, 52 ; High Bridge, 54; D., L. & W. Junction, 
68 ; Asbury, 61 ; Valley, 64 , Bloonisbury, 66 ; iSpringtown, 69 ; Pliillipsburg, 74 ; 
Easton, 75. Lehigh Valley R. iJ., — Glendon, 77 ; Freemansburg, 84; Bethlehem, 
87 ; East Fenn. Junction (AUentown), 92. E. Peiin. R. R., — Emaus, 98 ; Millers- 
town, 102; Alburtis, 104; Shamrock, 107 ; Topton, 110 ; Lyons, 113; Fleetwood, 
117; Blandon, 120; Temple, 123; Reading, 128; Wernersville, 137; Robesonia, 
141 ; Womelsdorf, 143 ; Myerstown, 150 ; Lebanon, 156 ; Annville, 161 ; Palmyra, 
166 ; Derry, 169 ; Hummelstown, 173 ; Beaver, 175 ; Harrisburgh, 182 ; Altoona, 
313; Pittsburgh, 430 ; Cincinnati, 743 ; Chicago, 898 ; St. Louis, 1049. 

The ferry-boat leaves the foot of Liberty St., N. Y., and crosses the 
Hudson River to the terminal station of the Central R. R. of N. J., S. of 
Jersey City. The train passes out from the large and commodious sta- 
tion and runs along the Bay of N. Y. to Communipaw, where it turns to 
the S. W. down Bergen Point, with the Bay on the 1. New York and 
Brooklyn are seen across the thronged harbor; and between Long Island 
and the heights of Staten Island is the strongly fortified Narrows, leading 
to the sea. The Newark & N. Y. R. R. diverges from the main line at 
Communipaw, and runs to Newark in 35 niin., crossing the Hackensack 
and Passaic Rivers and the Newark Meadows. Bergau Point is a nar- 
row and ridgy peninsula between Newark and N. Y. Bays, and has many 
pretty villas pertaining to city merchants. At Pamrapo is the * Willow 
Haven House (125 guests), situated in a willow grove facing the water, 
and affording facilities for bathing and boating. Beyond Bayonne and 
Centreville (which is near the great coal-depot of Port Johnston), the 
train runs W. near the Kill Von Kull, with Staten I.sland on the r., to 
Bergen Point. The * La Totirette House (300 guests) is a favorite summer 
hotel on the apex of the point, surrounded by trees and overlooking 
Staten Island and the Kill Von Kull (30 min. from N. Y., 25-30 
trains daily; also reached by horse-cars from Jersey City, and by steam- 
ers from Pier 14, N. R.). The train now moves out over Newark Bay 
on a pile-bridge 1| M. long, with the city of Newark and the Orange 
Mts. on the r. Elizahethport is an important coal-shipping point, with 3 
steamers daily to N. Y. ; and a large fleet of coasting-vessels transport 
coal, iron, and lumber thence to N. Y. and Brooklj'n. Large factories 
are also in operation here ; and a branch R. R. runs N. to Newark. 

The Central train now crosses the Penn. R. R. in the city of Elizabeth 
(see page 256), and passes the modern suburban villages of Roselle 
(Mansion House) and Crawford. The Orange Mts. are seen on the r. and 
11* 



25i) Route 36. PLAINFIELD. 

ill advance as the station of Westfield is passed ; and Fanwood is S. E. 
of the rich farm -lands of Scotch Plains (settled by the Scotch in 1684). 
Plainfield ( City Hotel) is a city of 5,095 inhabitants, with 10 churches, 
and nimierous hat-manufactories. It is prettily situated near Green 
Brook and at the foot of the mt., and overlooks a fertile country. In 
1838 a railroad was built hence to Elizabeth, consisting of narrow iron 
bands fastened to wooden logs, and a man was employed to keep the 
bands nailed down. This primitive road was the precursor of the quad- 
ruple tracks of the present Central R. R. Washi7igton\t Rock is on the 
mt. 2 M. W. of Plainfield (stages run to the summer hotel near by), and 
was often resorted to by Gen. Washington in order to watch, with his 
telescope, the movements of the British army and fleets. 

" The scene is one of uncommon beauty. On the 1. appear the spires of N. 
Y. City, part of the bay, Newark, Elizabethtowu, Rahway, and iStaten Island. 
Directly in front are Amboy and Raritan Bays. To the V. are New Brunswick 
and the heights of Princeton and Trenton ; and far to the S. E. the eye stretches 
over the plains of Monmouth to the lieights of Navesink. Beautiful villages be- 
deck the plain ; and cultivated lields, farm-houses, and numerous groves of ver- 
dant trees are spread around in pleasing confusion." 

After leaving Plainfield the Washington Rock and its hotel are seen on 
the r., and the train skirts the mts., passing Dunellen and Green Brook. 
Bound Brook (Bound Brook Hotel) is a small hamlet on the Raritan 
River, whence daily stages run S. E. along the river to New Brunswick ; 
and also N. through the mts. to Basking Ridge. The Chimney Rock is 2 
M. from Bound Brook, and is a pyramidal stone 15-20 ft. high, rising 
from a cliff 100 ft. in height. The Americans Avere defeated at Bound 
Brook in 1777 by Lord Cornwallis, and to the N. and W. the Continental 
army was encamped during the winter of 1778 - 79. The line now crosses 
Green Brook on an iron bridge, and reaches Somerville (2 inns), the capi- 
tal of Somerset County, a pleasant village of 2,236 inhabitants. It has a 
large country-trade ; and the mt. scenery to the N. is attractive. 

The Raritan Valley was the home of the Naratieong Indians, and was settled 
in 1670 by Huguenots from Holland and France. The South Branch R. R. runs 
IG M. S. W. from Somerville, through a rich farming and peach-raising country, 
io 'Flemin.stoTa.^Counhj Hotel; Union). This village is pleasantly situated on 
an undulating plain, and is the capital of Hunterdon County. A branch R. R. 
runs hence 12 M. S. W. to Lambertville, on the Belvidere Del. R. R. 

Stations, Raritan, with several factories ; N. Branch, from which the 
distant hamlets of Coatesburg and Mechanicsville are seen ; and White- 
house, with Pickle's Mt. close at hand on the 1. This district is devoted 
principally to stock-raising. Daily stages leave Whitehouse for Potters- 
ville. The grade now rises along the ridge, and the train passes Lebanon 
and Annandale, in a land that is prolific in peaches. At High Bridge the 
S. Branch of the Raritan is crossed on a great embankment occupying the 
site of a bridge 1,300 ft. long and 105 ft. high. There are iron-works 
here, and also at Glen Gardner, the next station. The train now meets 



EASTON. Route 36. 251 

the Del., Lack. & "Western R. R. at the Junction, and runs S. W. down 
the Musconetcong Valley, with the Muaconetcong Mts. on the L, and the 
Pohatcong Mts. on the r. The scenery is graceful, and the Blue Mts. 
begin to appear. Beyond Asbury (village 1 M. N.), Valley (1 M, S. of 
the track), and Bloomsbury, the Pohatcong Mt. is crossed. Passing the 
stock-raising district of Springtowoi and the hamlet of Greenwich, the 
train descends to Phillipsburg {Reese's ; Lee's Hotel), a busy manufac- 
turing town situated on a high bluff over the Delaware River and opposite 
the borough of Easton. It has over 5,000 inhabitants, and is notable for 
its iron-works, for whose use great quantities of magnetic ore, hematite, 
and limestone are found in the vicinity. The Morris Canal terminates 
here, and its boats reach the river level by an inclined plane, and cross to 
enter the Lehigh Canal (for the coal-mines) or the Del. Division Canal 
(for Philadelphia). Bold and picturesque hills surround this place, and 
the borough of Easton is overlooked, with its heights crowned by the 
tall buildings of Lafayette College. The Belvidere Delaware and the 
Morris & Essex R. Rs. meet the Central R. R. of N. J. at Phillipsburg, 
and 2 fine R. R. bridges cross to Easton and the Lehigh R. R. lines. 

Easton {U. S. Hotel; Franklin House), the capital of Northampton 
County, is a large and thriving borough at the confluence of the Delaware 
and Lehigh Rivers and Bushkill Creek. It is picturesquely situated on 
and about a cluster of steep hills, and commands pleasing views of the 
neighboring mts. The heights are lined with fine modern villas, and the 
stately buildings of Lafayette College loom conspicuously over the pop- 
ulous valley. The borough has 12,000 inhabitants, 18 churches, a costly 
Opera-House, 2 daily and 1 weekly i^apers, and 4 banks. The Circle is a 
fountain-adorned public green in the centre of the borough, and near the 
Opera-House. On the heiglits over the Lehigh is a quaint Catholic Church ; 
and farther back on the plateau is the Court House (with a Corinthian 
portico), and the County Prison, a low, massive, and picturesque building. 
On the E. slope of the hill is the Lutheran Church, with its heavy and 
disproportionate tower; also the new and costly borough school, having a 
singular and lofty roof. There are several neat churches in the lower 
town. 

Lafayette College was founded in 1826, and is richly endowed. " It 
is designed to make the Bible the central object of study in the whole 
college course " ; and while the classical course is similar in scope to that 
of other colleges, the student (in the first 2 years) is given his choice be- 
tween Christian and Pagan authors as follows : in Latin, Tertullian and 
Cyprian or Livy, Latin Bible and hymns or Horace, Augustine or Cicero; 
in Greek, Eusebius and Justin Martyr or Xenophon and Herodotus, Athena- 
goras and Greek hymns or Homer. The Scientific Department is divided 
into several technical schools, with costly apparatus, and is applied prac- 



2&2 Route 36. E ASTON. 

tically by field-works among the great iron and coal mines and railroad 
and canal bridges and grades in the vicinity. The college has 22 pro- 
fessors, 2 lecturers, and 6 tutors, with 335 students. Tlie biuldings are 
situated on Mt. Lafayette, which looks down on Easton, and is separated 
from it by Bushkill Creek. The steep side of the hill is ascended by a 
substantial stone stairway, near whose summit is a monument siirmoimted 
by a statue of a soldier, and inscribed with the names of the alumni who fell 
in the civil war. Near this point is the oldest of the college halls, fronted 
by a belfry-tower, and extended by two modern wings. The Physical 
Hall is below <on the r.), and farther up is the Observatory. The Blair, 
Newkirk, Powell, Martien, and McKeen Halls are N. of the campus. 
* Pardee Hall is a stately building of Trenton brown-stone (256 ft. long, 
and 5 stories high) which is devoted to the Scientific Schools. Extensive 
laboratories, model-rooms, and cabinets are found here, together with a 
fine lecture-hall. On the lower floor is a laTge model, with miniature 
steam machinery and puppet miners, showing all the processes of coal- 
mining, hoisting, breaking, and loading. The view from the towers includes 
many miles of the Delaware and Lehigh valleys, with the sun'ounding 
mts. This building was completed in October, 1873 (at a cost of $ 200,000), 
and was presented to the college by Mr. Pardee of Plazleton. 

The site of Easton was at the famous Indian council-ground known as the Forks 
of the Delaware ; and the borough was laid out in 1738, and named in honor of 
an English noble whose country estate Avas called Easton. Hundreds of Indians 
were frequently assembled here in great conferences with the colonial authorities, 
and here were delivered the orations of Teedyuscung, chief of the Delavvares. 
Easton is the wealthiest place of its size in the State, and has large manufactories ; 
while the surrounding country abounds in iron and limestone, and is, moreover, 
in a state of high cultivation. The long iron bridge of the Lehigh & Susque- 
hanna R. R. is worthy of examination. Mt. Jefferson rises abru])tly in the centre 
of the borough ; and "Chestnut Hill (1 M. N.) is surmounted by the singular rock 
called St. Anthony's Nose, from whose vicinity a broad and pleasing view is ob- 
tained. Durham Cave is near Easton, and is much visited. 

Horse-cars run to S. Easton and to Philliijsburg. The Lehigh Valley R. R. con- 
ducts to Mauch Chunk (46 M. ), Wilkesbarre (100 M.\ and Waverly, N. Y. (206 M.) ; 
the Lehigh & Susquehaima R. R. to Scranton (118 M.) ; the Central R. R. of N. J. 
to New York (75 M ) ; the Belvidere Del. Division of the Fcnn. R. R. (from Phil- 
lipsburg) to Philadelphia (81 M.)and the DelaAvare Water Gap (27 M.); and the 
Morris & Essex R. R. to New York (85 M.)- Staqes run from Easton to Portland 
and Mt. Bethel daily, also to Nazareth ; and to Tuckerton tri-weekly. 

From Easton the Lehigh Valley R. R. runs S. W., near the river, the 

canal, and the Lehigh & Susquehanna R. R. At Glendon are seen the 

great works of the Glendon Iron Co., and the chain dam which supplies 

water-power to S. Easton. Beyond the vineyards of Hope the Lehigh 

Mts. are approached, and the line passes Freemanshurg, where many 

canal-boats are built. The Lehigh University is seen on the high rid 

to the 1. as the train reaches S. Bethlehem, and on the r. is the quaint old 

borough of Bethlehem (see page 301). 5 M. beyond the train turns to 

the S. W. at the East Penn. Junction, with the city of Allentown visible 

on the r. 



LEBANON. Route 36. 253 

The E. Penn. train ascends the valley of the Little Lehigh, between the 
] Blue and the South Mts., through a fertile limestone country which is pop- 
ulated by the descendants of the early Germanic immigrations. Station, 
Evxaus (small inn), an ancient Moravian village on a single street at the 
foot of South Mt. , and near the works of the Emaus Iron Co. This place 
v/as settled in 1739 by the Germans, and was named Macungie. In 1741 
2 Moravian missionaries were sent here " to preach the gospel to every 
one," and Count Zinzendorf followed them, insomuch that a new church 
was formed here, and the place was named Emaus. Beyond Millerstown 
the train reaches Alburtis, near the Lock Ridge Furnaces, which were 
founded in 1866, and turn out 10,000 tons of fine pig-iron yearly. Great 
deposits of hematite are found in the adjacent hills, to which a branch 
track is laid. The Catasauqua & Foglesville R. R. runs N. to Catasauqua, 
on the Lehigh River. The line now enters the rich agricultural county of 
Berks, and runs S. W. by Shamrock to Topton, whence a branch line runs 
to Kutztown, ih, M. W., an old hamlet in a rich rural district, and the 
seat of the Keystone State Normal School. Lyons {Lyons House; 
American) is a small place which receives many summer visitors. The 
train passes thence down a fine chamiiaign country, with the Blue Ridge 
on the r., by several rural hamlets, intersects the Phila. & Reading R. R. 
in the heart of the city of Reading (see Route 47), crosses the Schuylkill 
River and the Union Canal, and runs S. W. by Sinkinf/ Siting, near 
which the Reading & Columbia R. R. diverges to the 1. The mts. of 
Heidelberg are now traversed, and beyond the iron-funiaces at Robesonia 
the train readies Wojnelsdorf, a large and prosperous German borough, 
situated in a fertile limestone valley. Near this place, and at the foot of 
the S. ridge, is the summer hotel called the South 2ft. House (stages from 
I the station). As the train passes out by Sheridan, the Blue Ridge is seen 
' on the r., 10 M. away across the plains of Tulpehocken and Bethel. 
Myerstown (2 inns) is a thriving village, distinguished as the seat of the 
Palatinate College, an institution of the German Reformed Church. The 
train now reaches Lebanon {Eagle Hotel), the capital of Lebanon County, 
a borough of 6,727 inhabitants, situated in a fine limestone valley on the 
Quitapahilla Creek. It is regularly laid out, and has substantial buildings 
of stone and brick. The borough is nearly midway between Reading and 
Harrisburg, and its population is nearly all German- American. 

The N. Lebanon R. R. runs 7 M. S. to the Cornwall Ore Banks, situated in 
Grassy and Big Hills, the latter of which contains 40,000,000 tons of iron ore, 
yielding 70 per cent of pure iron. There are several large furnaces, making vast 
amounts of pig-iron, and veins of copper are found in the vicinity. 6 M. from 
Lebanon, and near the Swatara River, are valuable quarries of gray marble. The 
Lebanon & Tremont R. R. runs N. 31 M. to Tremont, entering the defiles of the 
Blue Mts. at Swatara Gap, and crossing the Schuylkill & Susquehanna R. R. at 
Pine Grove. 



264 Routed. NEW YORK TO PHILADELPHIA. 

5 M. beyond Lebanon the train passes Annville, the seat of the Lebanon 
Valley College, a Moravian institution with 7 professors and 153 stndents. 
The line now traverses a land of fertility and promise, dotted with quaint 
old farm-houses, near wliich are the immense and finely constructed barns 
which attest the thrift and wealth of the descendants of the early German 
immigrants. Derry (2 inns) has an ancient and embowered colojiial 
church; and Huinmelstotmi is a thrifty farm-centre, 1 M, S. of which is a 
remarkable cavern, whose inner chamber is 4 M. long and abounds in 
fantastic stalactites. The train now crosses the Swatara River and the 
Union Canal, and runs W. to Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania. 

Harrisburg, and the Penn. R. R. to the E. and W. (Altoona, Pitts- 
burgh, and Cincinnati), see Route 50. The Northern Central R. R., to 
Gettysburg and Baltimore or to Williamsport and Elmira, see Route 

37. New York to Philadelphia. 

By the Pennsylvania R. R. (N. Y. Division) in 3-4 hrs. This is a portion of 
the great national route I'roin New Englanil and New Yorlc to Baltimore, Wash- 
ington, and the S. Atlantic States. It is also a part of the route to the Western 
States, by way of Pittsburgh, from Avhich direction vast quantities of freight are 
brought E. to N. Y. Harbor, where the Penn. R. R. is now building adequate and 
capacious freight-depots, on the shores of the Hudson at Jersey City. The line 
traverses the most wealthy and populous parts of the State of New Jersey, and 
scarcely leaves the remoter suburban villages whieh depend on New York before 
it enters the outer lines of the broad environs of Philadelphia. Fares, New York 
to Newark, 20e.; to Perth Amboy, &0c.; to Trenton, ^1.40 ; to Philadelphia, $8.25. 

Stations. — New York; Jersey City, 1 M.; Marion, 3| M. ; E. Newark, 8; 
Newark, 9-lOJ; Waverley, 12; N. Elizabeth, 13^; Elizabeth, 14^; Linden, 18; 
Rahvvay, 20 (branch to Perth Amboy, 28) ; Houteuville, 22 ; Uniontown, 23 ; 
Menlo Park, 24^ ; Metuchen, 26^ ; Stelton, 29^ ; New Brunswick, 31^ (branch to 
Millstone, 40) ; Deans, 39 ; Monmouth Junction, 414 (intersection of the Amboy 
Division) ; Plainsboro', 46 ; Princeton Junction, 37^ (branch to Princeton, 40i) ; 
Lawrence, 51^ ; Trenton, 57 ; S. Trenton, 58 ; Morrisville, 58^ ; Penn Valley, 61 ; 
Tullytown, 63^ ; Bristol, 672- : Schenck's, 70^ ; Eddington, 71^ ; Cornwell's, 73 ; 
Andalusia, 74^; Borie's, 74; Torresdale, 75; Pennypack, 77; Hohnesburg Junc- 
tion, 77^ (branch to Bustleton, 82) ; Tacony, 78i ; Wissinoniing, 79^ ; Bridesburg, 
80^ ; Frankford Junction, 81i (branch to Kensington, 84) ; Germantowu Junction, 
85i ; Mantua, 88^ ; W. Philadelphia, 90. 

Passengers leave New York by ferry-boat from the foot of Cortlandt St., 
or of Desbrosses St., and are landed at the terminal station of the Penn. 
R R. in Jersey City. The train runs through the streets on ascending 
grades, and soon enters the Bergen Cut, a deep rock-cutting in Bergen 
Heights. Emerging on the Hackensack meadows, the great factory of 
the U. S. Watch Company and the St. James Hotel are seen on the 1., at 
Marion, and the line crosses the Hackensack River and the meadows of 
Kearney, with the Morris k Essex R. R. on the r., and the Passaic 
River on the 1. Beyond the Passaic the train enters the city of 

Newark. 

Hotels. —* Continental, Broad St., near the M. and E. station, $3 a day; 
Park Hotel ; Newark House. 



NEWARK. Roxde 37. 255 

Reading-Rooms. — The Newark Libraiy Association, 147 Market St., open 
from 10 A. M. to 10 p. m. ; tli3 N. J. Historical Society, comer of Broad and Banlc 
Sts., open from 9 to 5 ; tlie Y. M. C. A., Washington Park, near Broad St., open 
from 8 A. M. to 10 p. M. 

Horse-Cars — to Orange (white light), every 10 min., on Marlcet, Bi'oad, and 
Orange Sts. ; to Belleviilc (green light), every 2:)"' min., on Market and Broad Sts., 
and Belleville Ave. ; to Mt. Pleasant Cemetery and Woodside (red light), on Broad 
St. and Clinton and Belleville Avcs. ; to Irvington (yellow light) ; to Elizabeth 
(lilue light) ; and out Market St. to Ferry. Stages run to Jersey City on Sundays 
7 times. Steavierstn New York semi-daily. 

Railroads. -The Penn. R. R. to N.'Y. or Philadelphia ; the Morris & Essex, 
to N. Y. or Easton ; tlie N. Y. & Ncv.^ark, to N. Y. in 35 min. ; the Paterson & 
Newark, to Paterson in 11 M. ; and the Newark & Bloomfield and Montclair. 

Newark, the chief city of the State of New Jersey, and the capital of 
Sussex Co\mty, is well situated on an elevated plain on the r. bank of the 
Passaic River, 9 M. from New York, and 4 M. from Newark Bay. It has 
105,059 inhabitants (census of 1870), with 93 churches (14 German, 5 
African, 3 synagogues), 11 banks, and 4 daily and 5 weekly papers. 
There are large manufactories of india-rubber goods, carriages, leather, 
boots and shoes, pajDer, and machineiy. Tlie jewelry-manufactnre is 
developed to a great magnitude ; and the Clark Thread Comi)any em- 
ploys 750 girls. Many thousand barrels of lager-bier are made here 
yearly, and the enormous Passaic Flour-Mills (S. of the R. R. bridge) 
turn out 2,000 barrels of flour daily. The building is 12 stories (156 ft.) 
high ; has 2 acres of flooring, and a capacity for storing 760,000 bushels 
of grain; is served by 2 600-horse-power engines, and is the largest flour- 
mill in the world. The brown-stone quarries near the city are extensively 
drawn upon for building material for New York, 

Broad St. is the chief thoroughfare of Newark, and is the seat of its 
business houses. It is a noble avenue of 120 ft. in width, and runs N. 
and S. through the centre of the city. It is well shaded, and is traversed 
by several horse-car lines. Washington Park and tlie Military Park are 
pleasant squares on the line of Broad St. , containing groves of lofty and 
graceful elms, and surrounded by fine buildings. The ancient Trinity 
Church is on the Military Park. The U. S. Custom House and Post- 
Office is a fine building at the corner of Broad and Academy Sts., and the 
City Hall (corner of Broad and "William Sts.) is worthy of notice. Market 
St. crosses Broad St. at right angles in the heart of the city, and runs from 
the vicinity of the Penn. R. R. station W. to the Court House, a massive 
sandstone building in Egyptian arcliitecture. The Library Association 
building is noticeable for its adaptability to its present use, and contains 
over 20,000 volumes. Just beyond the Court House is the new and un- 
finished, but finely conceived Episcopal Church of St. Paul. The build- 
ing of the Mutual Benefit Life Ins. Co. is said to be the finest in the State, 
and the Newark Academy (on High St. ) has a large brick edifice in grounds 
which overlook the Passaic Valley. At the corner of High St- and Cen- 



253 Routes?. ELIZABETH. 

tral Ave. i:^ St. Michael's Hospital, near which is the Catholic Cathedral. 
On the corner of High and William Sts, is St. Benedict's Priory and Col- 
lege, and the High St. Presbyterian Church is a massive and elegant little 
brown-stone structure, with a Saxon tower and a clere-storj'. The Church 
of the House of Prayer (Epis.; corner of State and Broad Sts.) is worthy 
of notice ; also the cruciform Church of the Redeemer, with its dainty 
portal ; the ornate Clinton Ave. Reformed Church ; St. Paul's M. E. 
Church, with minarets and lofty windows ; and the ivy-mantled and 
sparrow-hauntred old church at the corner of Broad and Walnut Sts. 

Mount Pleasant Cemetery is an attractive j^round of 35 acres N. of tlie 
city, with tine ;iveimud and uiidulatiny hills. The drives in the vicinity of New- 
ark are very pleasant, —tlic best heing those to Orange, the city of villas, 3 M. 
N. W., and along the banks of the Passaic, where may be seen many fine man- 
sions, including " The Cedars," where Henry William Herbert (" Fraidc Forrestei'") 
lived in seclusion, and Keariii/ Place, the former home of Gen. Philip Kearny, wlio 
was born at N. Y. City in 1815 ; won the cross of the Legion of Honor in the 
Franco-Algerian War (1840), and again at Solferino, in 1859 ; lost his left arm in 
the attack on the San Antonio Gate of the city of Mexico (1847) ; won the battle 
of Williamsburg, Va., in 18G2 ; and was killed while fighting at the head of his 
division in the battle of Cliantilly, Va., Sept. 1, 1862. Across the river from 
Kearny Place is the old mansion which has been celebrated by Irving under the 
name of " Cockloft Hall " (in the Salmagundi papers). 

In 1665 the colonies of Hartford and New Haven were united. The men of 
Branford had steadily opposed this union, and after its consummation they moved 
away in a body, headed by their pastor, and carrying their families and household 
goods. In 1666 they founded Newark, laying out the broad streets which are now 
the pride of the city. The land was bought from the Hackensack Indians with 
£130, 12 blankets, and 12 guns. No one was admitted as a freeman, voter, or 
officer of any sort unless he was a Congregational church-member ; and the church 
was fortified against the Indians in 1676. By 1682 Newark had become famous for 
its cider. In 1745-46 great riots took place here in consequence of attempts of 
the English grantees of East Jersey to invalidate the titles of the Puritans to their 
lands. The College of New Jersey was located here 1747-55, and the Newark 
Academy was founded in 1702. The town was occupied by the British in 1777, 
and was'sacked, plundered, and nearlv destroyed. The population in 1780 was 
1,000 ; in 1830, 10,950 ; in 1840, 17,290 ; in 18G0, 71.941 ; and in 1870, 105,059. 

The train runs S. W. through the city and passes on to Waverley, near 

Weequahick Lake ; 3 M. beyond which it reaches Elizabeth {Sheridan 

House), a city of about 25,000 inhabitants, situated on elevated ground 3 M. 

from Newark Bay. It is called the handsomest city in the State, and is 

laid out witli broad streets crossing each otlier at right angles, well shaded, 

and lined with bright, spacious, and widely detached villas. It is famed 

for a wealthy and cultured society, and for fine educational facilities; and 

its growth has been rapid and healthy. Elizabetli is principally known 

as a residence-city for business-men of New York, to which run 50 - 60 

trains daily in 37-50 min. (over the N. J. Central or the Penn. R. R., 

which intersect near the centre of the city). 

In 1665 Gov. Carteret crossed the Atlantic and bought of the Indians the present 
site of the city, founding here a colony which he named Elizabeth, in honor of 
Lady Elizabeth, wife of Sir George Carteret (proprietor of East Jersey). The 
country was rapidly settled, and the predominant influence was that of the Puri- 
tans (as shown in the old colonial laws). Thenceforward for many years Eliza- 



NEW BRUNSWICK. Route 87. 257 

betlitown was the capital of East Jersey ; and during the Revolutionary War it 
■was frequently raided by the British and occupied by the Continental iorces. It 
was the residence of Gov. Livingston, and gave freely of its young men to the 
national army. 

As the train leaves the intersection of the raih'oads and passes S., the 
"broad avenue called the Bay Way is seen on the 1., running to the vi^ater- 
side. Eahway {De Graw's ; Chancberlain House) is a city of 6,258 in- 
habitants, situated on the Railway River at the head of scliooner-naviga- 
tion and 4 M. from Staten Island Sound. It has 10 churches and several 
small parks, with 2 academies ; and is famous for its great carriage- fac- 
tories and other manufacturing industries. This city was settled in 1720, 
and was named in honor of Rahwack, the Indian Sachem who owned its 
site. A branch R. R. runs 9 M. S. from Rahway across the populous 
town of Woodbridge to the ancient city of Perth Amboy, which is situ- 
ated at the confluence of the Raritan River, Staten Island Sound, and 
Raritan Bay. It is a port of entry with a considerable coasting-trade ; 
and exports fire-brick and kaolin. Near this place is the summer reiiort 
known as the Eagles wood Park Hotel, pleasantly situated near the Rari- 
tan River. 

The name of this port is compounded of Ompoge, or Amho, the Indian name for 
the point, —and Perth, given in honor of the Scottish Earl of Perth, one of the 
grantees of East Jersey. The early travellers called it " a sweet, wholesome, and 
delightful place " ; and William Penn declared of it, " I have never seen such be- 
fore in my life." It was settled in 1669, and 150 town-lots were laid out ; the in- 
tention being to establish a town "the most considerable for merchandise, trade, 
and fishing in tliese parts." New York was rivalled in connnercial importance by 
Perth-town ; and the capital of the province was located here in 1684. The troops 
of the Havana expedition wei'e (-antoned here in 1761 ; and the point was garri- 
soned by British soldiers during most of the Revolutionary era. 



Beyond Rahway the train passes Uniontovm, near the Adrian Institute, 
|] where summer boarders are taken. Running through the peach-orchards 
of Meticchen, the line crosses the Raritan River and enters New Bruns- 
wick (Citi/ Hotel ; Neio Brimsivick), a city of 19,000 inhabitants, with 
17 churches and 2 newspapers. It is the capital of Middlesex County, 
and stands at the head of navigation on the Raritan River and at the E. 
terminus of the Delaware and Raritan Canal (running to Bordentown, 42 

BJM.), The most extensive india-rubber factories in the United States 
are located here ; and the harness and hosiery manufactures are largely 
developed. The riverward streets are narrow and uneven, but the upper 
part of the city is well laid out and has many fine residences. The opera- 
house is one of the best in the smaller cities, and the musical culture of 
the inhabitants is quite remai'kable. In the older part of the city are 
several quaint and antiquated churches. Rutgers College occupies a 
range of substantial buildings which front on a campus shaded with large 
Itrees, and from its vicinity are enjoyed pleasant views of the valley from 
Raritan Bay to the mts. of Somerset County. The college was founded in 

Q 



25? Rcmte 57. PRINCETON. 

1770, when King George III. granted its charter to the Protestants fol- 
lowing the Netlierland Reformed Church, It was then named Queen's 
College, in honor of the English Queen ; and received the name of Rutgers 
in 1825. It is now a richly endowed and flourishing institution. Here 
was founded the first theological seminary in the U. S. (by the Dutch 
Reformed Church in 1771 ) ; and this school at present occupies a line of 
new buildings on the ridge beyond the college. The main structure, is 
known as Hertzng Hall, and on the lawn near by is a bronze statue of Mr. 
Hertzog, its chief benefactor. The Masonic Hall is one of the best build- 
ings in the city; and the Court House occupies a conspicuous position 
near the centre. The Catholic Cathedral and St. James Methodist Clnirch 
are modern edifices; and Christ Church (Epis.) is an ancient building 
surrounded by graves. A branch R. R. runs from New Brunswick 8 M. 
to the quiet old hamlet of E, Millstone. 

New Brunswick was settled late in the 17th century by men of Long Island, 
and was occupied in 1730 by several Dutch families from Albany. In 1748, Kalm, 
tlie Swedish traveller, found here " a pretty little town, with 4 churches and a 
consideralile trade with New York. After a sharp and successful engagement 
with the American troops near the town. Lord Cornwallis evacuated New Bruns- 
wick, in June, 1777, leading several corps of the royal household troops and 3 
regiments of German grenadiers. 

Pi'om Monmouth Junction branch lines run E. to Jamesburg (4^ M.), on the 
Camden & Amboy R. R. ; and 9 M. N, W. to Kmijsion, near which the apostolic 
Brainerd, " with invincible self-denial and profoundest humility and devotion to 
God," converted scores of Indians, At Kingston Washington eluded the British, 
and made a forced march which saved his army after the victory at Trenton. 2 
M. beyond Kingston (by R. R.) is Rocky Hill, where Washington dwelt for 3 
months in 1783, and whence he issued his " Farewell Address to the Armies of 
the United States." 

16 M. from New Brunswick is Princeton Junction, whence a branch 

line runs in 3 M, to Princeton {Mansion House; Nassau), an academic 

city finely situated on a high ridge and containing nearly 3,000 inhabitants. 

It is chiefly distinguished as the seat of the College of New Jersey, or 

Princeton College, which was founded by the Presbyterian Synod of 

New York in 1741, and was located at Princeton in 1757. 

Nassau Hall was built in the latter year, and was so named "to express the 
honor we retain in this remote part of the globe to the immortal memory of the 
glorious King William the Third, who was a branch of the illustrious house of 
Nassau ; and who, under God, was the great deliverer of the British nation from 
those two monstrous furies. Popery and Slavery." The college is now under the 
charge of the Scottish-American metaphysician, James McCosh, D. D., LL. D, ; 
and has 17 professors and 417 students. 

The college buildings are mostly of stone, and occupy a long line parallel 
with the main street of the village. On the W. is tlie Halsted Observa- 
tory, with its bright blue dome; and the Gymnasium is the next in the 
line. Nassau Hall is a long and spacious building in the centre, sur- J 
mounted by a tower. The floors and stairways are fire-proof ; and the ^ 
hall projecting to the S. (formerly occupied by the library) contains por- 
traits of many of the chief men of the college. A quadrangle is formed 



PRINCETON. Route 37. 259 

by Nassau Hall on the N., Reunion and W. College Halls on the W., E. 
College on the E., and 2 small builduigs with classic porticos (on the S.), 
occupied by the literary societies. The Philadelphian Society's Hall and 
tlie residence of President McCosh are nearer the village street. E. of 
Nassau Hall is the elegant new * Library building, of red and gray sand- 
stone. Tlie octagonal centre is flanked by graceful wings, and the portals 
are supported by columns of Scotch granite with quaint capitals. In this 
building is preserved Peale's portrait of Waslungton at the battle of 
Princeton. Beyond the Library is Dickinson Hall ; and the E. end of 
the line is occupied by the new and ornate building of the Scientific 
School, a large and unique structure of red and gi-ay stone. Nassau and 
Dickinson Halls and the Library front on a broad and verdant campus 
which is adorned with many large trees. 

The Theological Seminary occupies several plain stone buildings near 
the college halls. This is the leading school of the Presbyterian Church, 
and has educated some of its ablest divines. The President is Dr. 
Charles Hodge, one of the foremost of American theologians. Opposite the 
main hall is the handsome building occupied by the library of the semi- 
nary, situated in a pleasant park among ancient trees. The Preparatory 
School (of tlie college) is beyond the Seminary, and was opened in 1873 
with 38 students. The Episcopal and Presbyterian churches, on the main 
street of Princeton, are large and imposing stone buildings. 

The Cemetery is a short distance N. of the college halls, and is perhaps the 
most iiitei-esting spot iji Princeton. There are several tine monuments to deceased 
students ; the noble old Stockton family has sojue interesting memorials ; and 
the remains of several venerable i)residents of the college are buried here under 
tablets. But the chief interest of the cemetery centres around the humble monu- 
ments of the two kinsmen whose lives were in such startling contrast to each 
other, — Jonathan Edwards and Aaron Burr. 

Jonathan Edwards, the greatest of American metaphysicians, was born in 
Connecticut in 1703, educated at Yale, began to preach in 1723, and was a 
missionary to tlie Indians at Stockbridge (Mass.), 1751-57. While there he 
wrote the remarkable treatise on " The Freedom of the Will," in whose close 
and subtle ai-gument he maintained "that philosophic necessity was com- 
patible with freedom of the will, rightly defined, and with human responsibility." 
" Tall and sleiider in person, he had a high, broad, bold forehead, piercing and lu- 
minous eyes, and a countenance indicative of sincerity and benevolence." The 
great religious awakening that startled the frozen churches of New England in 
the 18th century was largely caused by his marvellous sermons, unevadable in 
their directness, incontrovertible in their logic, and terrific in tlieir lurid eaniest- 
ness. Probably no preacher since Chrysostom has had such power of striking 
terror into an audience ; and this he did simply by his Avords and by his intense 
earnestness, and without any of the graces or artifices of oratory. He was inau- 
gurated President of N. J. College in 1758 ; but died of small-pox only 4 weeks 
after, leaving " The Freedom of the Will," " The Religious Affections," and "The 
Hjstory of Redemption," as his great monuments. His worlcs fill 10 octavo 
volumes. " These three, — Augustine, Calvin, and Jonathan Edwards." 

Aaron Burr, the grandson of President Edwards, was born at Newark, N. J., 
in 175(5. He graduated at N. J. College in 1772, .joined the army at Cambridge in 
1775, was in Arnold's march through the Maine forest, the attack on Quebec, and 
other battles of the Revolution, and was for a time on Washington's staff, but af- 
'terward joined the cabal of generals who opposed and endeavored to overthrow 



260" Roide 37. TRENTON. 

the noble Virginian. He began to practise law in 17S2, and was a leader in the 
Senate from 1791 to 1797. In 1801 Burr and Jefferson were tlie opposing candi- 
dates for tlie Presidency of the Republic. The vote of the national electors was 
a tie, — 73 for eacli, — and Congress, after 36 successive ballots, decided the elec- 
tion in favor of Jefferson, with Burr for Vice-President. In 1804 he killed Alex- 
ander Hamilton in a duel. Soon afterward he prepared to consummate his wild 
and ambitious scheme of forming a vast southern empire from the S. W. American 
territories and the Spanish x^rovince of Mexico. He had already secretly banded 
together large forces of frontiersmen in order to seize and secure his imperial 
X)ov/er, and had won over several officers of the western garrisons, when the U. S. 
government discovered the plot, and arrested its author. He was tried for treason 
at Richmond (1807). and was barely acquitted. Fleeing the country, he lived 
abroad in great poverty until 1812, when he returned to New York, married 
Madame Jumc), and lived in obscurity until his death, in 1836. He was a man 
of brilliant talent and ability, a fiery orator, and possessed of remarkable fascina- 
tion in conversation ; but as a politician he was totally unprincipled, and his social 
life was a succession of systematic villanies. 

Trenton {Trenton House, $3.50 a day; United States; American; 
State St. House), the capital of New Jersey, is situated at the head of 
navigation on the Delaware River, and is crossed hy.the Delaware and 
Raritau Canal. It has 22,874 inhabitants, with 4 daily papers, and 28 
churches. The city is noticeable for its cleanliness and thrift, and its 
suburban streets contain many fine villas. State St., parallel with the 
river, and Main St., at right angles witli State, are the chief thorough- 
fares. Various and extensive manufactures are carried on by the aid of 
the Delaware and Assumpink water-powers ; foremost of which are the 
potteries, 18 in numbei-, with 57 kilns, employing 1,200-1,500 men, and 
producing $1,500,000 worth of goods yearly (much fine iron-stone china 
and white granite ware). The N. J. Steel and Iron Co. employs 650 men, 
producing 20,000 tons yearly; and the Trenton Iron Co. employs 4- 500 
men. Great quantities of crackers are also made here. 

The State House fronts on State St., across a small park, and on the 
other side overlooks the Delaware River. It is 100 ft. long, and was built 
with money obtained from taxes on the railroads. The building is sin- ] 
gularly disjointed, and has picturesquely irregular outlines. It is sur- 
mounted by a cupola which affords pleasant views of the river and city. 
The State Library is a large and well-arranged collection occupying a hall 
in the rear part of the building. The new U. S. Post-Office is situated 
on State St., and is a fine Renaissance structure, massively built of stone. 
The State Penitentiary is on Federal St., and covers 8 acres, having 520 
convicts and 44 officers. 400 of the men make shoes for the Bay State 
Company, finishing 2,000 pair a day, and the women work on clothing. 
A new wing was added in 1872, at a co.st of .f 150,000. The State Lunatic 
Asylum is nearly 2 M. N. of the city, on an eminence. It has 650 patients, 
and cost $400,000. The State Arsenal is near the Penitentiary, on the 
S. A branch R. R. runs 6 M. S. E. along the Delaware from Trenton to 
Bordentown, and the Belvidere Delaware R. R. runs N. W. to Easton 
(51 M.) and Manunka Chunk (58 M.). 



\ic\ 
;s, 1 
ie| 
to I 

i 



BRISTOL. Route 37, 261 

Trenton was settled by the Friends in 1679, and about the year 1720 it was 
named Trent' s-town, in honor of Col. Wm. Trent, the owner of the land. It was 
made the capital of the State in 1790, and became a city in 1792. Among the na- 
tives of Trenton were Gov. A. H. Reeder (of Kansas), Bishop G. W. Doane, Dr. J. 
R. Coxe, and Joseph Reed, the Revolutionary statesman. In 1776, after Wash- 
ington's disastrous retreat through the Jerseys, this place was garrisoned by a 
brigade of German mercenaries under Colonel Rail. On Christmas night, Wasli- 
ington crossed the Delaware in a storm of sleet and snow, leading 2,400 men and 
20 cannon by boats through the floating ice, and attacked Trenton in 2 divisions 
about daylight. The garrison was alarmed by the firing on the outer picket-line, 
but had hardly formed and begun to advance before their commander was mortally 
wounded, and the American columns converged on them from every side. Their 
artUlery was taken by a charge, in which Lieut. Monroe (afterwards President of 
the U. S.) was wounded, and the enemy broke ranks in panic. 600 of them es- 
caped, but 1,000 were captured, together with 6 cannon, and the colors of the 
Anspach, Knyphausen, and Rail regiments. Jan. 2, 1777, Lord Comwallis ad- 
vanced hitherward with 5,000 British regulars, intending to crush Washington's 
5,000 militia, but was repulsed at the fords of the Assumpink with a loss of 150 
men. During the following night, Washington left his camp-fires burning and 
picket-lines on patrol before the hostile lines, and marched rapidly on Princeton 
(10 M. distant), where he fell upon the 17th, 40th, and 55th Britisli regiments, then 
marching to join Cornwallis. Gen. Mercer led 300 patrician Philadelphians against 
the 17th, but was repulsed and mortally wounded (refusing to suiTcnder). Moul- 
der's battery then opened on the enemy, and,, the Rhode Island regiment advanced 
on his flank, upon which the British gave way, leaving their artillery. 1^ M. N., 
the Americans met and routed tlie 40th and 55th regiments, and bombarded and 
stormed Nassau Hall (of Princeton College), which was tilled with the fugitives. 
Cornwallis was now close behind Washington, and the chief, leaving a gun and 
a strong picket-guard at the village, hurried after the flying brigade, and was safe 
among the hills before the enemy could reach liim. At Princeton the Americans 
lost 100 men, and the British lost over 400. Frederick the Great said that this 
fortnight's campaign was "the most brilliant in the annals of military achieve- 
ments." 12 years later, when AVashington was going from Mount Vernon to New 
York to assume the office of President, he was accorded, at Trenton, imposing 
triumphal honors. 

On leaving Trenton the train crosses the Delaware on a massive bridge 
1,100 ft. long (built in 1804-6), and enters Pennsylvania near Morris- 
ville, where Marshal Moreau lived for several years. In this to^vn Avas 
the Pennsbury Manor (near the river), where William Penn had a large 
mansion in the 17th century. Bristol is the chief borough in Bucks 
County, and has 3,269 inhabitants. It has a rolling-mill and other manu- 
factures, and is the S. terndnus of the Penn. Canal (Del. Division), which 
brings down vast quantities of coal from the Lehigh Valley. In this vi- 
cinity are chalybeate springs, formerly much visited and used for bath- 
ing. Bristol was founded in 1697, and occupies a fine situation on the 
banks of the Delaware, nearly opposite Burlington. It is a summer 
home for many people of Philadelphia, and has a daily line of steamers to 
that city. From Holniesburg Junction a branch line runs 4 M. N.W. to 
the village of Bustleton, and from Frankford Junction trains run 3 M. 
S. W. to the terminus at Kensington. Most of the trains tuni W. from 
Frankford and run around the N. part of the city, crossing the Phila. 
& Reading, N. Penn., and Norristown R. Rs. The Schuylkill River is 
passed in Fairmount Park and near the Girard Ave.Bridge, and the train 
sweeps aroimd to the S. E., and stops at W. Philadelphia (31st St.). 



262 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

38. Philadelphia. 

Arrival. — Most of the railroad termini are remote from the centre of the city, 
but are pasijed by horse-car lines leading thitherward. The main station for New 
York and the West is near 31st 8t., whence horse-cars run down Market St. to 
the river. The (^laniden & Aniboy, Camden & Atlantic, and W. Jersey R. Rs. 
terminate at Camden, wlience ferry-boats cross to Philadeljihia. 

Hotels. — The * Continental ^corner of Chestnut and 9th Sts. ; §5.00 a day) 
is one of the best hotels in America, and has a front of Pictou sandstone, 6 stories 
high and 200 ft. long; the *Girard, oi)po,site the Continental on Chestnut St., * 
.S3. 50 a day ; the "Washington, Chestnut St., between 7th and 8th Sts., §3 a day ; 
the Ajnerican, Chestnut St., opposite Independence Hall, 8 3 a day ; Guy's, corner 
of Chestnut and 7th Sts., European plan ; the Irving, on Walnut St., near 9th. 
Markoe's and the St. Stephen's are on Chestnut St., near 11th St. ; and the Bing- 
ham (SS a day) is on the corner of Market and 11th. The *St. Cloud {^'S a day) 
is on Arch St., between 7th and 8th ; the Central is a small hotel (§2 a dav) on 
Arch, below 7th ; the St. Elmo (S 2.50) is on Arch, near 3d ; and the Merchants' 
is on 4th, near Arch. In the upper part of the city is the ♦Colonnade Hotel $3.50 
corner of Chestnut and 15th St. ; also the *La Pierre (>?3.50), on Broad St., near 
the Union League and Opera-House. Near the river are several inexpensive 
hotels, — the Ridgway (^!2), at the foot of Market St. ; the Arch St. House, and 
others. The Eagle (comer of Vine and 3d Sts.); the Bald Eagle (3d St., near 
Callowhill) ; the J51ack Bear, and others similarly named and located, are inex- 
pensive houses which are muih frequented by Pcnnsylvanians. There are many 
first-class boarding-houses in the city, especially on upper Chestnut, Arch, San- 
som, and other well-located streets. The prices are much less than those of the 
hotels. 

Restaurants. — *Tlie Continental Hotel Cafe, Chestnut St., near 9th ; 
♦Green's, 731 Chestnut St., near 7th; Belcher's, Mitchell's, and others, near 
Independence Hall. There are many restaurants for merchants, etc., in the 
riverward streets and on or near Chestnut St. Confectionery and ices may be ob- 
tained at the Continental ; also at Vansant's (836 Chestnut St.), Whitman's (812 
and 100-i Chestnut St.), and elsewhere. 

Carriages are found at the railroad stations, and at stands throughout the 
city. Fares, for 1 passenger for a distance of 1 M, or less, 75c. ; 2 passengers, 
§1.25 ; each additional one, 25c. For 1 passenger, 2 M. or less, 81.25 ; 2 passen- 
gers, S 1.75 ; each additional one, 25c., — and 50c. for every mile bej'ond. Car- 
riages l)y the hour, for 1 - 2 persons, ^1.50; 25c. for each additional one. For 
children between 5 and 14 years old, half-price is charged ; younger children are 
carried free, and also 1 piece of baggage to each passenger. Unless otherwise 
specified, the fares are paid by the mile (1 M. meaning 12 blocks of 100 numbers 
on numbered streets). 

Horse-Cars. — The horse-car service of Phila. is unequalled elsewhere in the 
world, and is performed on 22 lines of track. The fare is 7c. ; and points on other 
connecting lines may be reached by transfer- tickets (9c.), which should be called 
for on paying the fare. Full lists of the routes may be found in the city directory, 
at the offices of the hotels. Among the principal lines mny be named those on 
Market St., leading to the Penn. R. R. station ; to the Insane Hospital and Had- 
dington ; the Ridge Avenue line, to Girard College, Laurel Hill Cemetery, and 
Manayimk ; the 2d St. line, running S. to the Navy Yard ; the Kensington 
lines, on 2d and 3d Sts. ; and from Richmond to Frankford ; on Darby Ave. S. 
W. to the open country ; on South St. to the Naval Asylum ; on 10th St. to the 
Moyamensing Prison ; the lines on 7th and 9th Sts., or on 13th and 15th Sts., to 
the Baltimore Depot ; out Walnut St. to 41st St. (near the Insane Hospital) ; and 
on Germantown Ave. to Germantown. The cars on Chestnut St., E. of the 
Schuylkill, all run towards the Delaware. Market St. is the great thoroughfare 
of horse-car travel, and intersects the lines running N. and S. 

Ferries — fares, 5c. — from the foot of Market St. to Market St., Camden, 
and to the W. Jersey R. R. station ; from Vine St. to Camden, and the Camden & 
Atlantic R. R. station; from South St. to Kaighn's Point, Camden; from South 
St. to Gloucester, N. J. ; from Shackamaxon St. (Kensington) to Cooper's Point, 
Camden ; (rom South St. to Red Bank, N. J. (lOc). 

Amusements. — The * Academy of Music (comer of Broad and Locust Sts.)» 




]□[ 



'lJ' 31 ; 



Continenieu F. 

La fterre E. 

Cirard P. 

Cnionnadt. 3E. 

St. Cloud F. 

Bingham E. 

American F. 

WashingltH F. 

Irving F. 

St. Lawrtrut E. 

Cuy'! r. 

St. Elmo F. 

Mtrckanet F. 

i\idgcu'a/ F. G. 

EagU F, 



R. R. STATIONS. 

S4. N. Y. [Kfnsin^tvrt ). G. a, 

8j. N. Y. and PMsiuTgli [,W. Phila.) C. 5. 

86. hcthUhm : F. a. 

S7, Baltimore and Wa:/iin^Oft. . , » ,E. 7, 

88 Reading F. K e! 4. 

S9. Narriit-jwn , . .F, 4. 

90. Camden and Apttoy H. ». 

91. Atlantic City G. 4. 

oj Caft May H. 6 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 263 

is the largest opera-house in the U. S., and is devoted chiefly to operas and musical 
entertainments of a high order. Lectures are sometimes given here, and brilliant 
Imlls are also celebrated. The Walnut St. Theatre (corner Walnut and 9th Sts.) 
has a fine auditorium, and is devoted to drama. Mrs. John Drew's *Arch St. 
Theatre is on Arch St., near 6th ; Fox's New American Theatre is on Chestnut 
St., near 10th ; and Wood's Mu-:eum is at tlie corner of Arch and 9th Sts. The 
Chestnut St. Theatre is above 12th St., and has a fine hall. Minstrels entertain- 
ments are aff'orded at the Arch St. Opera House (above J 0th St.; Simmons and 
Slocum's troupe), and at the opera-house on 11th St., near Chestnut (Carncross 
and Dixey's troupe). Varieties, on 7th St., between Arch and Market Sts. Classic 
music and concerts of a high order are given at tiie Musical Fund Hall, on Locust 
St., below 9th (a favorite hall, seating 2,500' persons) ; also at Concert Hall, on 
Chestnut St., above 12th St, ; and at Horticultural Hall and the Academy. 

Reading-Kooms. — * Mercantile Library, on 10th St., near Chestnut St.; 
the Phila. Library, corner of 5th and Library Sts.; Y. M. C. A. 15th and Chestnut 
St. ; the Apprentices' Library, corner of 5th and Arch Sts. ; the German Library, 
on 7th, near Chestnut St.; the Franklin Institute, at 155 7th St. (10,000 volumes); 
and at the hotels. Billiards at Green's, 731 Chestnut St. ; the American Hotel ; 
and the Continental Hotel. 

Art Collections. — Besides the public galleries, thci'e are fine collections of 
pictures in llie sales-galleries of Haseltine (1125 Chestnut St.), Earle (816 Chest- 
nut St.), Hall (910 Chestnut St.), and others. The private collections of Phila. 
are renowned for their richness and value, and consist (for the most part) of the 
best works of the modern French school, with numerous examples of the fore- 
most artists of America. They are usually ojien on 2 days of the week to visitors 
provided with cards of admission, which may be obtained by application to the 
proprietors (in person or by letter), on presentation of letters of introduction 
or other credentials properly recognizing the worthiness of the applicant. Mr. 
Henry C. Gibson (1612 Walnut St.) has 100 choice pictures, disi)layed in 3 rich 
Pompeian cabinets, which are adorned with statuary and objects of vertn. This 
gallery contains fine paintings by Calix, Courbet, Isabey, the Bonheurs, Diaz, 
Zamacois, Couture, Rothermel, Troyon. the Achenbachs, Tissot, Calame, Gerome, 
Meissonier, Fortuny, Daubigny, etc., and the celebrated work of Cabanel, *Tlie 
Birth of Venus. James L. Claghorn, Esq. (on W. Logan Square), has about 120 
pictures, representing the chief modern artists of both hemispheres, — Escosura, 
Daubigny, Prudhon. Bmiguereau, Schreyer, Zo, Rigaud, R. Bonheur, Blanchard, 
Meissonier, the Achenbachs, Herzog, Flamm, Knaus, Stange, Voltz, Weber, 
Koekoek, Rossi, Zamacois, Madon, Webb, Pyne, Tadema, Boughton, Holland, 
Hamilton, Rothermel, Gignoux, T. B. Read, Cropsey, Gifford, Leutze, Casilear, 
Dnrand, Church, Bierstadt, and others. Mr. Claghorn has also the best collection 
of engravings in America, numbering many thousand, and including rare and 
quaint works of great value. The galleries of the late Joseph Hamson, Jr. (E. 
Rittenhouse Square), Wm. B. Bement, A. E. Borie, and many others have rare 
treasures of French and American art. 

Bailroadg. — The Pennsylvania, to New York in 90 M., to Pittsburgh in 354 
M., from the corner of 31st and Market Sts. Local trains to Bustleton, Trenton, 
etc., from Kensington ; Camden & Amboy Division by ferry to the Camden 
station, from the foot of Market St. To Erie and Buffalo, by the Phila. & Erie 
R. R., from 31st and Market Sts. The Phila. & Reading R. R., from the comer 
of 13th and Callowhill Sts., to Reading (58 M.) and Pottsville {9-3 M.) ; the 
Germantown & Norristown R. R., from the corner of 9th and Green Sts., to 
Norristown (17 M.) ; the N. Penn. R. R., from the corner of Berks and American 
Sts., to Bethlehem (.54 M.); the West Chester & Phila. R. R., from the corner 
of 31st and Chestnut Sts., to West Chester (28 M.). The Camden & Atlantic 
R. R., by ferry from the foot of Vine St. to the station in Camden, to Atlantic, 
City (59 M.) ; the West Jersey R. R., by ferry from the foot of Market St. to the 
station in Camden, to Salem (43 M.) and Cape May (81 M.). The Phila. & Bal- 
timore Central R. R., from tlie corner of Broad and Prime Sts., to Port Deposit 
(71 M.) ; the Phila., Wilmington & Baltimore R. R., from the corner of Broad 
and Prime Sts., to Baltimore (98 M.). 

Steamships. — The American Line, for Queenstown and Liverpool every 
Thursday (fares, cabin, $75-100; intermediate, .$40, — in currency); the Red 
Star Line, for Antwerp weekly, carrjing the Belgian and U. S. mails (fares, first 
cabin, $90; second, $60; steerage, $30); for Havana and New Orleans fort- 



264 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

'lightly, from Pier 41 (foot of Green St.) ; for Savtonnah every Saturday at 8 a. si. 
(I'f-^r 41); for Charleston every Friday, from Pier 4 (below Arch St.); for 
Wilminoton, N. C, every Tuesday at 6 a. m., from Pier 41 ; for Norfolk and 
Richmoii.i every Wednesday and Saturday noon, from first wharf above Market 
St. ; for Alc.-andi'ia, Georgetown, and Washington (by the Chesapealve & Dela- 
ware Canal) e. -ry Wednesday and Saturday noon, from second wharf below 
Market St. ; for r>iltimore aiid Havre de Grace dailv, at high tide, 12 South 
Wharv^es ; for Bostoi. (48 hrs.) every Wednesday and Saturday, at 10 a. m., 
by the Winsor Line, fro.,> the Pine St. Wharf ; for Providence every Wednes- 
day and Saturday, by the Cij-dc Line, from Pier 3, North Wharves ; or by the 
AVinsor Line, every Saturday at :o a. m. ; for Hartford (by the Delaware and 
Raritan Canal and Long Island Souno> every Thursdav noon, from Pier 4, South 
Wharves ; for New York daily (in 24 hrs.;, from second wharf below Market St. ; 
also tri-weekly from Pier 19; for Albany ai.d Troy every Wednesday, from first 
wharf below Pine St. 

For Cai)e May tri-weekly (in summer) ; for BriUyo+nn at 4 p. m. Tuesdaj's and 
Fridays ; for Salem, Newcastle. Pennsgrove, and Delawai.- City, daily, from Arch 
St. Wharf; for Wilmington, Del., daily, from Chestnut St. Wi.,nrf and the pier be- 
low (at 3 and 5 p. m.) ; for Chester and Lazaretto daily, at 3 p. K., fr,,m Pier 8^ 
North Wharves ; for Red Bank, Billingsport, Bridgeport, and Chestei, daily at 
3 p. M., from Arch St. Wliaif ; for Lepsio, Spruance, Port Penn, and LamoiviV?, 
tri-weekly from Arch St. Wharf. Tlie Edvin Forrest, from the Arch St. Wharf 
daily (with the tide), for the upper river-landings and Trenton (fare, 40c.); the 
John A. Warner, from the Chestnut St. Wharf semi-daily (at 2 and at G p. m.), for 
Riverton, Torresdale, Andalusia, Bevei'ly, Burlington, and Bristol (25c.); the 
Tvnlight, from the Chestnut St. Wharf semi-daily (7 A. M. and 3 p. M. ), for Bur- 
lington, Bristol, and the intermediate ports (2uc.). 

Philadelphia, tlie second city in point of population in the Western 
Hemisphere, and the foremost city in point of manufactures, lies betAveen 
the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers, 6 M. from their confluence and about 
96 M. from the ocean. The land toward the Delaware is generally level 
and but slightly elevated, while the W. and N. W, suburbs are located 
on rolling ground which is traversed by the deep valleys of the Schuylkill 
and the Wissahickon. The city is in latitude 39° 57' N. and longitude 
75° 10' W. of Greenwich ; and is 87 M. from New York and 138 M. 
from Washington. The Delaware River at this point is-a deep and navi- 
gable stream f M, wide; and the Schuylkill River (on the W. ) descends 
hither from the coal-regions of Schuylkill County, 115 M. N. W. The 
commerce of Phila. is large and increasing, and is sei-ved by lines of steam- 
ships to Europe and the American coast; but the chief wealth of the city 
is in its immense manufacturing interests, which are favored by the com- 
parative cheapness of land and building materials and the vicinity of th 
great coal and iron districts. There are here 8,500 manufactories, with a 
capital of $ 205,000,000, served by 55,000 horse-power of steam and 5,000] 
horse-power of water. In 1870 these works were reported as producing 
$ 362,000,000 worth of goods from 1 175,000,000 worth of raw material. 
They employ 100,000 men and 40,000 women, whose yearly pay-roll amounts 
to $ 68,000,000. Among the foremost industries of Phila. are the manu- 
factures of locomotives, ships, cotton and woollen goods (at Manayimk), 
umbrellas, shoes (for the S. and W.), carpets, iron in every form, books, 
and refined sugar. The city is the fourth in the Repiiblic in respect to 



I 



1 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 265 

commerce, much of which is dependent on the shipments of coal and iron ; 
and her coal-laden schooners and propellers visit the most remote points 
on the coast. Several first-class railroads converge here from every side ; 
and numerous short local lines connect the adjacent counties with the 
metropolis. Since commerce is not the leading interest, the city has less 
bustle and apparent activity than New York, Boston, or Chicago ; and 
this air of comparative quietness is also largely due to the greatness of 
the area over which the energies of Phila. are at work. The mechanics 
and artisans of Phila. live more comfortably and neatly than those of any 
other city; and from this fact an immense amount of skilled labor has 
directed itself upon this point. Beyond the heart of the city extend 
seemingly interminable lines of brick buildings, precisely similar in ex- 
ternal appearance, neat, cleanly, and respectable, and at the same time 
inexpensive. "With a population much smaller than that of New York, 
Phila. has more houses than that city; and in 1870 reported 112,366 houses 
for a population of 671,022, while New York had 61,014 houses for 912,29-2 
inhabitants. The domestic architecture of Phila. is very monotonous, and 
consists almost invariably of plain buildings impinging upon the side- 
walks, with pressed-brick fronts, marble steps and trimmings, and white 
window-shutters. The territorial area of the mimcipality is 129 M., in- 
cluded in a district 20 M. long and 5 - 8 M. wide, which is traversed by 
over 600 M. of paved streets. On about 2| square M. (between South 
and Callowhill Sts.) the streets are laid out with great regularity, and 
cross each other at right angles; but beyond those limits the rectangular 
streets are traversed by oblique roads leading to the suburban villages. 
The houses are numbered by a convenient plan, each street commencing 
a new hundred ; and, as nearly all the streets running N. and S. are 
designated by numbers, the location of a given house can be quickly esti- 
mated. From 2d St., which is the first street W. of Front St., to the 
Schuylkill there are nearly 30 streets ; and No. 1125 Cliestnut St. would 
be found between 11th and 12th Sts. Market St. is the main business 
thoroughfare ; Chestnut St. is devoted to banks and retail trade ; Front St. 
has much wholesale trade ; and Delaware Ave. follows the river and is 
the seat of commerce. 

The Indian domain of Wicaco (now Southwark) was settled by the Swedes be- 
fore 1677, and a fortilied block-house was erected. In October, 10S2, William 
Penn and a large number of English Quakers sailed up the Delaware, and at 
Skackamaxon (now Kensington) he held a conference with the Indian chiefs. 
"The children of the forest were touched by the simple doctrine which the 
' Quaker king ' avowed. They received the presents of Penn in shicerity, and in 
hearty friendship they gave the belt of wampum. ' We will live,' said they, ' in 
love with William Penn and his children as long as tlie moon and the sun shall 
endure.'" This compact was well observed, and "not a drop of Quaker blood 
was ever shed by an Indian." Later in 1682, Penn purchased the lands of Coa- 
qiienakxi (" tke grove of the tall pines "), which he said ' ' was not surpassed by one 
among all the many places he had seen in the world " ; and here a city was laid 

12 



266" Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

out which he named Philadelphia, partly in honor of that Asiatic city to whose 
church Christ sent the message, "I have loved thee," and partly because of the 
etymology of the name (from the Greek compound word, <l>iAd6«A</)os, meaning 
'• brotherly love," and thereby identifying the principles of the Quaker immigrants 
witli the name of their city). The groves of chestnut, walnut, spruce, and other 
trees were soon cleared away, leaving their names attached to the streets which 
crossed their sites ; and in 1(583 the Provincial Assembly convened here and Ibrmed 
" the charter of liberties." 

The new city, thus planted in amity and peace, and fostered by the Penn family, 
grew rapidly in i)opulation and consequence, and until 1820 it was the largest* in 
the U. S. A city charter was obtained in 1701, including the space between the 
Delaware and Schuylkill and the present Vine and South Sts. Under the influence 
of Franklin, Logan, and John Penn, a i-cttned and cultured society was developed, 
and science re(;eived much attention. Great excitement prevailed here after the 
Stamp Act and Tea-tax, ami a band of disguised citizens captured the first landed 
cargo of tea and burnt it in the lields. When the appeal to arms became neces- 
sary, that powerful and wealthy portion of the community which belonged to the 
sect of Quakers held back from the colonial cause, and were thenceforth passive, 
but ardent royalists. In Sept., 1774, the first Contniental Congress met here, and 
in July, 1776,'it declared the independence of America. After the disasters about 
New York, Congress adjourned to Baltimore (Dec. 12, 1776), and on Sept. 26, 1777, 
after their victory at the Brandywine, tlie r>ritish troops occupied the city. It 
was the Capua of the royal army, who jia-sscd the jiei'iod of their occupation in 
rioting and lax discipline, while the vigilant "Wa.shington watched them from the 
dreary camps at Valley Forge, 24 M. N. W. The grand militaiy and chivalric fes- 
tival called the Mischlanza took place May 18, 1778, and one month later the 
British army evacuated their fortifications and camps and retreated to New York, 
pursued by Washington. The national government reoccupied the city, and 
henceforth its growth was steady and rapid. The Constitution was fi-amed here 
in 1787, and Congress continued to meet in Independence Hall until 1797. In 
1684, Phila. liad\0O0 inhabitants; in 1777, 21,167; in 171*0,42,520; in 1800, 
70,287 ; in 1820, 11!>,325 ; in 1>:40, 258,037 ; in 1860, 665,520 ; and in 1876,817,44'^. 

Among the natives of Philadelphia were the signers of the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence, George Clymer, Francis Hopkin.son, and Robert Rush ; the U. S. Sena- 
tors, J. A. Bayard, Nicholas Biddle, G. M. Dallas, and W. C. Preston ; and Wm. 
Franklin, W. M. Kelley, and Fernando Wood. To the Church she has given 
Bishops Carrell, Hobart, and White, and Drs. Alexander, Duchet, Charles Hodge, 
McClintock, W. H. Milburn. Odenheimer, Potts, Stevens, Turner, S. H. Tyng, 
Jr., and J. B. Walker. To the law she has given Wm. Allen, Horace Binney, the 
Rawles, Sharswood, Shippen, the Wallaces, and the Whartons. The medical jiro- 
fession is represented by S. Bard, T. Gallaudet, Green, Harlan, Hosack, Morgan, 
Physic, the Shippens, and H. H. Smith. To the army she has given Generals 
Cadwallader, Darke, Harmar, Haupt, McCall, McClellan, Mifflin, Morton, Pem- 
berton (rebel), Naglee, and P. F. Smith ; to the navy, Bache, the Biddies, the 
Cassins, Dahlgren, Dehaven, the Ellets, the Engles, E. K. Kane, and D. D. Porter. 
To literature, Allibone, Clifton, Barker, Broadhead, C. B. Brown, T. Coxe, Anna 
E. Dickinson, J. D. English, Gallagher, Godfrey, James Hall, the Hopkinsons, 
the Ingersolls, Charles G. Leland, Eliza Leslie, E. J. and George P. Morris, M. M. 
Noah, C. Roguet, the Reads, Henry Reed, R. P. Smith, and C. W. Thompson. 
To science, Robert Hare, J. Leidy, S. G. Morton, G. Ord, R. M. Patterson, H. D., 
W. B., and J. B. Rogers, T. Say, Townsend, and Wilson. To art, F. O. C. Darley, 
T. Doughty, and T. U. Walter, the architect. To the stage, J. Jefierson, W. 
W^arren, and J. E. Murdoch. The philanthropists Boudinot, Eddy, Pemberton, 
and Vaux were also natives of Philadelphia. 

William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was born at London, in 1644, and 
was the son of Admiral Penn. He was' liberally educated at Oxford and Paris, 
studied law, and fought in the Irish war. In 16U6 he became a Quaker, and began 
to preach, but was frequently imprisoned. In 1680 he received a royal patent for 
Pennsylvania, and in 1682 he made a favorable treaty with the Indians, and bought 
the laud from them fairly. Many years he spent in English prisons on charges 
of treason and debt, and in 1718 he died. His grandson, John Penn, was the last 
royal governor of Pa., and was a firm loyalist. He Avas contined in Virginia by 
the patriots, and the Penn estate (the largest in America ; valued at nearly 
$5,000,000) was confiscated by Congress. 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 267 

Market St. is tlie central thoroughfare of the city, and is 100 ft. wide. 
It is lined with stores and (in the lower part) wholesale houses, and is 
traversed by numerous lines of horse-cars. Passing 3 of the great mar- 
kets for which Pliila. is so widely celebrated, the new public buildings on 
Penn Square are rounded, Avith the Masonic Temple on the r. ; and the 
street runs W. to the Schuylkill, which is crossed on a new and massive 
biidge. Tlie elegant Chestnut St. Bridge is seen on the 1., and the city 
gas-works are on the r. The Penn. R. R. terminal station (a large new 
brick and stone building) is now reached, beyond which Lancaster Ave. 
diverges to the r. to Hestonvillc; Darby Ave. turns to the S. W. to the 
University and Almshouse, and Market St. passes W. to the Insane 
Hospital. 

At the corner of Market and Front Sts. is the quaint old building of 
the London Coffee-House, which was built in 1702, and was a famous 
resort in the later colonial days. The Penn Cottage is an ancient structure 
on Letitia Street (running from Market to Chestnut St. between Front 
and 2d St.). It was the first brick building in Phila., and was the home 
of William Penn in 1682-83. The new Exchange, corner of 2d and 
Gothic Sts., occupies the site of the Slate-Roof House, which Avas built 
in 1690, occupied by Penn in 1700, and by Wm. Trent (founder of Trenton) 
after 1703. Lord Cornbury, John Adams, Baron De Kalb, John Hancock, 
and others sojourned here ; it was Arnold's head-quarters in 1778 ; and 
here John Penn was bora, and Gens. Forbes and Charles Lee died. 
♦Christ Church is on 2d St., near Market, and is a quaint and venerable 
structure which dates from 1727 (its communion-service was presented by 
Queen Anne in 1708). It was regularly attended by Washington, and tlie 
mossy graveyard (on Arch St.) contains the remains of many notable 
men of past eras. In the tower is the oldest chime of bells S. of 
Boston. They were brought from London in 1754, rang in the birth of 
Liberty in 1776, and were hidden at Allentown during the British occu- 
pation. The spire is 196 ft. high, and there is a fine view from the tower, 
including the Delaware and its islands and shipping, the level plains of 
New Jersey, and the broad masses of the city blocks. 

On 2d St. is the old LoxUy House, and at 239 Arch St. the first 
American flag Avas made. On the S. W. corner of 7th and Market Sts. 
is the house in which Jeiferson Avrote the Declaration of Independence, 
and the identical room is still shoA\Ti. An open iron railing on Arch St., 
near 5th St., reveals the grave of Benjamin Franklin, beyond which are 
the sepiilchres of many ancient magnates, occupying Christ Church grave- 
yard. On Arch St., near 4th, is the Friends' Meeting -House, a quaint 
old building which is secluded in a broad graveyard. It was built in 
1808, to receive the congregation who were driven from the more ancient 
"Great Meeting-House" on Market St. by the "street noises." The 



268 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

Friends' Library is at 304 Arch St., andhas over 10,000 volumes; and 
the Ajjprentices' Library has about 25,000 volumes, in the old building 
at the corner of Arch and 5th Sts., which was formerly occupied by " the 
Fighting Quakers." Beyond this point Arch St. runs W. through a 
quiet commercial district, passing the elegant fronts of the Arch St. 
Theatre and the St. Cloud Hotel. Near 10th St. are the Methodist Book- 
Rooms ; and Arch St. soon crosses Broad St. , by a trio of elegant churches, 
and enters a district of residences, chiefly remarkable for the monotony 
of their architecture. 

Chestnut St. is the most brilliant and interesting street in the city. 
It runs W. from the Delaware River, and passes for several squares 
through a district of wholesale houses and banks. Third St. is the Wall 
St. of Phila. , and leads S. by the former head-quarters of Jay Cooke & 
Co., and the classic portico of the Girard Bank (copied from the Dublin 
Exchange, and long occupied by Stephen Girard), to the * Merchants' 
Exclmnge, the head-quarters of commerce, opposite which are the U. S. 
Appraiser's stores, in a new and massive structure which Supervising- 
Architect Mullet declares is the only fire-proof building in America. Be- 
yond this point, and on and near 4th St., are the costly and imposing 
buildings of the Penn., the Lehigh Valley, the Reading, and other railroads. 

To the S. (corner of Pine and ?A Sts.) is St. Peter's Church, which was 
built in 1758-61, anrt has a tower containiiij? a merry chime of bells. In tlie 
churchyard is a nionunient to Com. Decatur, " the Bayard of the seas," a gallant 
naval officer in the Tripolitan, Algerian, and British (1812) Wars. 3d St. runs N. 
through a busy trade district, parallel with 2d St., the Bowery of Phila. On 
Cherry St., W. of 3d, is Christ Church Hospital, and at the intersection of Race 
and 6th Sts. is Franklin Square, a pleasant park in which is a marble fountain. 
To the W., on Sergeant St., between 9th and 10th Sts., is the Girls' Normal School. 

On Chestnut St., above 3d, is the Florentine front of the Bank of North 

America, the oldest bank in the Republic (founded in 1781), near which 

is the building of the Fidelity Safe Deposit Co., massively built of Mass. 

marble, with an impregnable safe weighing 150 tons (cost $60,000), 

Back of the ornate Guarantee Safe-Deposit is Carpenters' Hall, which 

was built of small imported brick (each alternate one being glazed and 

dark), in 1770, for the use of the Society of Carpenters. Here, in the 

hall on the lower floor, met the first independent American Congress, 

Sept. 5, 1774. 

" Here, with the news of the cannonade of Boston bursting upon them, arose 
the first prayer in Congress. Washington was kneeling there, and Henry, and 
Rutledge, and Lee, and Jay, and by their side stood bowed in i-everence the Puri- 
tan patriots of New England, who at that time had reason to believe that an 
armed soldiery were wasting their humble households." After the Revolution 
the hall jiassed into ignoble uses, but has since been restored by the Company of 
Carpenters, and is now carefully guarded and reserved for reverent visitors. 

The *U. S. Custom House is on Cliestnut St., between 4th and 5th, 
and was built in 1824 for the U. S. Bank at a cost of $ 500,000. It has 



/ 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 269 

2 imposing fronts (one on Library St.), each of which lias 8 fluted marble 
columns of the Doric order, rising from a high platform approached by 
steps, and supporting a plain pediment. Just above the Custom House 
is tlie Post-Office, a practical granite building, and opposite is the Farm- 
ers' and Mechanics' Bank, a fine marble structure, containing the Clearing 
House an<l occupying the site of Lord Howe's head-quarters. Just above 
is the Quincy-granite front of the Penn. Life Ins. and Trust Co. Above 
5tli St. is * State- House Roio, a line of ancient buildings now occupied by 
tlie municipal government, and fronting on a broad paved sidewalk which 
is shaded by trees, and has a statue of Washington. Tlie central building 
dates from 1729-34, and is known as * Independence Hall. In its E. 
chamber the General Assembly of Penn. gave place to tlie Conthiental 
Congress. In this room ("the birthplace of the Republic") George 
Washington was elected commander of the American army (June, 1775), 
and on July 4, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was adopted here 
by Congress, and was read from before the building (July 8) to a vast and 
exultant multitude. The halls are now restored to their old estate, and 
have been made the receptacle for a National Museum (open 9 A. M. to 4 
r. M., daily). The E. room contains a large number of portraits of the 
leaders of the young Republic (in Congress and in the field), Washington, 
Franklin, Morris, Adams, Jefferson, Lee, etc. Several of these pictures 
were painted by C. W. Peale ; others are copies from Stuart and Trum- 
bull. The antiijue wainscoting and Congressional chairs in this room are 
noteworthy. Tlie W. room contains a large and interesting collection of 
curiosities and mementos of the younger days of America. There are 
personal elfects of the magnates of the provincial and Revolutionary eras, 
furniture from old and historic mansions of Penn. and the adjacent States; 
and souvenirs of the republican armies and officers during the earlier 
v/ars. Autographs, coins, and medals, MS. letters and orders, and other 
relics of the past, are here displayed; and the collections will be of great 
interest to the antiquarian and patriot. This is the nucleus of the grand 
National Museum wluch has been prepared for the Centennial display in 
1876 ; and contributions are made to it from all parts of the Republic. 

The original Declaration of Independence is to be kept in the E. cham- 
ber through the Centennial season. Among other relics in the W. hall 
are the ba'iTier of the Penn. Line, Franklin's table, Penn's chair, Paul 
Jones's flagon, and many other personal mementos of great interest and 
value, historically. 



270 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

At the vestibule of the Hall is the * Old Liberty Bell, mounted upon 
its original framework of heavy timbers. This bell was made in Loudon 
in 1752, and bore the inscription, " Proclaim Liberty tliroughout the land 
unto all the inliabitants thereof." It was recast in Phila. soon after (re- 
taining the inscription), and its merry ringing announced to the city that 
Congress had adopted the Declaration of Independence (July, 1776^. 
Passes to the steeple of the hall are given in the E. Chamber, and the 
view from that point is quite interesting, includuig the densely settled 
parts of the city, the white colonnades of Girard College, the hills of 
Fairmount, and the N. J. shores. 

Independence Square is S. of the Hall, and is adonied with fine old 
trees. It was bought by the Province in 1729 and 1760, and was planted 
■with elm-trees in 1783. Here the assembled people heard the Declaration 
read, and on its S. side were the British military prisons during the Revo- 
lution. The Square covers 4 acres, and is worn smooth by the feet of 
many passers. The Court House is in this vicinity, with the offices of 
many lawyers. To the S. W. is Washington Square, which is famous as 
containing trees of nearly every variety found in this latitude, in great 
number and luxuriance. This Square is well kept, and is surrounded by 
iron fences. It occupies the site of the " Potter's Field," where over 
2,000 American soldiers were buried during the Revolution. The Athe- 
?ia??iwi building fronts on this square (corner of 6th and Adelphi Sts.), 
and has a reading-room, a chess-room, and a library of over 25,000 
volumes. 

The * Phila. Library is on S. 5th St., near Chestnvit St., and occupies 
a plain old building, over whose entrance is a statue of Franklin. The 
main library has 94,000 volumes (rich in American history), and the Lo- 
ganian Libraiy (classics) is in the same hall, and contains 6-8,000 vol- 
umes. This institution was founded in 1731 by Benjamin Franklin's in- 
fluence, and received its first importation of books in 1732. The present 
building dates from 1789. In 1877 the library will be partly changed to 
a grand new building at the corner of Broad and Christian Sts., which has 
cost $ 1,500,000, and was a bequest to the society fnun Dr. Rush. This 
edifice is built of wliite marble, with a massive portico upheld by Doric 
columns and flanked by secondary colonnaded entrances. 

The library hall is surrounded by iwrtraits and busts of eminent men, while 
over the upper galleries are colossal busts of Minerva and Melpomene. The tall 
and ancient clocks of Penn and Cromwell are here, and in cases in the centre of 
the hall are many literary curiosities, chief of which are a volume of Franklin's 
Penn. Gazette, 1737-39; the works of Scotus, printed at Venice in 1477: the 
Golden Legende, by Caxton, 1483 ; St. Augustine's Vita Christiana, by Faust and 
Schoeffer, 1459 ; the Book of Hours, printed on vellum at Paris, 1510 ; Plantage- 
net's New Albion, 1648 : Eliot's Indian Bible, Cambridge, 1663 ; a vellum MS. 
Bible of the 13th century ; an Abyssinian prayer-book ; the Book of Esther, in a 
Hebrew scroll ; a phylactery ; and ancient MSS. in Greek, Hebrew, Siamese, 
Chinese, and Arabic. The library is open from 10 a. m. to suuset. The American 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 271 

Philosophical Society is domiciled near this hall (comer of S. 5th and Chestnut 
Sts.), and lias a collection of antiquities and cui'iosities, with a library of 30,UO0 
volixmes. It was founded in 1743 by Franklin, John Penn, and others, and 
erected its present building in 1790 on land given by the State, 

Chestnut St. nms W. from Independence Hall, passing on the 1. the 
stately brown-stone bxtilding of the Pnhlic Ledger, near which are the 
offices of the Sun, the Transcrij^t, the Post, the Star, the Age, the Day, 
the Item, the Herald, the German Democrat, and the Evening Bulletin. 
Elegant retail stores are now seen on either side, and the bright and mov- 
ing tlirongs on the sidewalks give to the ensuing squares the appearance 
of Broadway at its best. The office of the Phila. Press is at the corner of 7th 
St., which diverges to the r. to the German Library and the Franklin In- 
stitute, whose library, cabinets, fairs, and courses of lectures are of great 
influence in educating the people. 7tli St. also leads S. to the great * Feun. 
Hospital, a quaint and venerable pile of buildings 281 ft. long, fronting 
on Pine St., over groves of tall trees. The lawn is adorned by a statue 
of William Penn, and the hospital contains a large anatomical museum 
and a medical library of nearly 12,000 volumes. The buildings were 
erected between 1755 and 1805, and ai'e open to visitors on Monday and 
Thursday afternoons. At 820 Spruce St., on the Penn. Hospital grounds 
is the building of the * Historical Society of Penn. (open from 10 a. m. till 
6 P. M.). 

On entering the lower hall there is seen the ancient printing-press of the Ger- 
man monks of Ephrata ; also the writing-desk of George Washington, a suit of 
armor captured in Mexico City, and a model of the ywamp-Angel battery. Sev- 
eral paintings are displayed in this room ; and the broad stairway is lined with 
quaint old American engravings. The main hall is hung with scores of portraits 
of ancient worthies of Penn. and N. J., among which are Rev. Israel Aerelius, 
Provost of the Swedish Church, by Schuessele ; Provost Smith, Benjamin West ; 
Joseph Reed, C. W. Peale; George Washington, Peale; Thomas Sergeant. T. B. 
Read ; Andrew Jackson, Sully ; Stephen Decatur, Sully ; Anthony Wayne, 
Rothermel ; Amerigo Vespucci, C. W. Peale; William Penn. There are also many 
paintings of places of historic interest, as Stoke Pogis, Pennsylvania Castle, Brad- 
dock's Field, and Valley Forge. The room and the large bay-window which looks 
out on the Penn. Hospital grounds contain many mementos of the old colonial 
and revolutionary ertis. In the lire-proof room are deposited, — a patent of land 
on the Delaware given by Queen Christina of Sweden in 1653 ; the first deed of 
the Indians to William Penn, and the belt of wampum given to him at the Treaty 
Elm ; the Penn MSS. ; 129 letters of John Adams, superbly bound ; the Bradford 
E^ayer Book of 1710 ; the ancient lock of the Bank of St. George, at Genoa ; pikes 
made for John Brown and for the Baltimore rebels ; and many other curiosities. 
The library contains about 20,000 volumes ; with the Potts Papers, giving the 
biedical history of tlie Revolutionary War ; the MSS. of Mason and Dixon's sur- 
veys ; and 1,000 official documents of the French Revolution. The Society has 
published many works relating to the early history of Penn. 

I Returning to Chestnut St., the ultra-Gothic front of the old Masonic 
iFemple is passed, and the Girard House and the stately Continental Hotel 
iare seen near 9th St. At the N. W. comer of 9th and Chestnut Sts. for- 

Imerly stood the University of Penn. , on the ground which is being occu- 
pied by the newU. S. Post-Office, a stately building for which $ 4,000,000 



272 Route 38. rniLADELPIITA. 

his been appro]niate(l. At the ccner of lOtli St. ia an imposinc: new 
Luihlingof granite in Renaissance. ;v .liitecture, owned by tlie N. Y. Mutual 
Life Ins. Co. ; N. of wliicli is tlie * Mercantile Library, whicli contains 
128,000 volumes, arranged in open alcoves in one of the finest reading-halls 
in the country, adorned with fountains and covered by a high arched 
roof. It is open from 9 a. m. to 10 P. M. Opposite the Library is St. 
Stephen's Church (Epis.), which is adorned by the * monuments of the 
Burd Family. To the 1 on entering is a recumbent marble figure (a por- 
trait-statue) under a rich Gothic canopy; and in a chapel on the N, side 
i.s a group of statuary clustered around a cross. To the S. on 10th St. is 
the Jefferson Medical College, an institution of high reputation, which 
dates from 1825, and has about 300 students. The anatomical rauseum^is 
large and well arranged. On Chestnut St., corner of 12th, is Bailey's 
jewelry store, in an imposing marble building ; and beyond 11th St. is 
the head-quarters of the powerful religious society called the American 
Sunday School Union, which was founded in 1817 and has a Avide-spread 
and beneficent influence. Near the corner of 13th St, is the *U. S. Mint, 
"with a marble front 122 ft. long, and a fine portico supported by 6 Ionic 
columns. It is open to visitors from 9 a. m. to 12 M. daily. 

The U. S.'Mint was founded at Philadelphia in 1792, since which it has coined 
over $800,000,000. The base coins are all made here from Minnesota copper and 
Penn. nickel ; and the gold which is used here comes mostly from Montana and 
Nova Scotia (tlie California and Oregon gold is used at the San Francisco Branch 
Mint). The present building was erected in lSo3, and is visited by 30,000 persons 
annually. As soon as a party of G - 8 persons collects in the vestibule, they are 
led into the coining-rooms by an attendant, who describes the various processes 
and points out the powerful and delicate machinery which is used in making 
money. The * numismatic cabinets in tlie 2d story are of great interest. On the 
1. of the entrance are cases containing Oriental and Barbary-States coins, includ- 
ing those of the 18 Moslem Calii)hs from Otliman to Ibrahim. In the first cabi- 
net are also complete collections of the currency of Austria, Spain, Portugal, and 
S. America (the latter are in the flat cases in the centre). On the sides of the room 
are rare ores and minerals, gold, silver, copper, aluminum, nickel, asbestos, etc., 
bright crystals, and barbaric ornaments from the Gold Coast. On the E. side are 
Japanese coins of the square and round issues, and a line of alloyed gold in grad- 
uated proportions. Between the first and second cabinets are Persian, Bactrian, 
and Greek Republican coins, from 300 to 700 B. C. (on the 1.) ; also a set of By- 
zantines from 395 to 1448 A. D. In the cabinet under the dome are the moneys 
of the Greek monarchies (back to the 8th century, B. C), the early Roman Re- 
public, and the Roman Empire from 222 to 475 A. D. ; also the latest issues 
of France, Great Britain, and the German and Italian states. In the centre is a 
case containing tliousands of American coins from the early colonial era to the 
last issues, including the 25c. and .$50 gold pieces. In the passage to the third 
cabinet are the coinages from Caesar to Trajan, Hadrian, and Elagabalus, near 
which is a coin issued from the Philadelphia Mint over 2,000 years ago (in Asia 
Minor). The third cabinet contains national medals and tokens, and the semi- 
circular case at the E. end is filled with the rarest and most curious coins of all 
times and nations. 

Opposite the mint is the symmetrical white-granite building of the 
Presbyterian Board of Publication. The street next crosses the stately 
avenue called Broad St. and passes the Colonnade Hotel, beyond which 
long lines of private residences extend to the Schuylkill River. 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 273 

IStli St. leads N. to Logan Square, a quiet park of 7 acres, on whose 
S. side is Wills' Hosjjital, a neat classic building where patients are 
treated for diseases of the eye. At the corner of Race and 20th Sts. is 
the Penn. Institution for the Blind^ a spacious four-story building 150 ft. 
long, where blind children are given an academic education, particular 
attention being paid to music, which is very successfully taught. On the 
E. side of Logan Square is the * Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, an 
imposing example of Roman-Corinthian architecture which was built be- 
tween 1846 and 1864. The facade is renowned for its massive power and 
symmetry, and consists of a classic pediment upheld by 4 lofty Corinthian 
columns, flanked by pilastered wings. The building is of red sandstone, 
216 ft. long, and is crowned by a dome 210 ft. high. The interior is cruci- 
form, and is adorned with frescos ; aad the great altar-painting is one of 
the most brilliant works of Brumidi. N. W. of Logan Square is the im- 
posing building of the Preston Retreat (between Hamilton, Spring Gar- 
den, 20th and 21st Sts.), which was founded by Dr. Preston as a lying- 
in hospital, but is now occupied by the Foster Home for poor children. 
^ M. N. is the Penitentiary, beyond which are the House of Refuge and 
Girard College (see page 277). 

Rittenhouse Square is a short distance S. of Chestnut St. (by 18th 
St.), and is surroimded by fine residences, the most noticeable of which is 
that of the late Joseph Harrison, Jr. (on the E. side). A short distance 
to the E. (corner of Locust and 13th Sts.) are the halls and library of the 
widely celebrated College of Physicians (founded in 1787), and at the 
corner of 9th St. is the Phila. University of Medicine and Surgery. On 
Locust St., near 16th, is * St. Mark's Church (Episcopal), a noble Gothic 
building of red sandstone, with high clerestory and pointed roof and a 
tall spire. 

The marble building of the Reform Club is passed above 15th St., and 
beyond 23d St. Chestnut St. crosses the Schuylkill River on the finest 
iron * bridge iu America (built 1861-66, at a cost of $500,000), and 
traverses the quiet and picturesque residence quarter of W. Philadelphia. 
Beyond the Bridge the Junction R. R. is crossed, not far from the station 
for N. Y. and the W. Costly and elegant villas are now seen on either 
hand, and especially to the S. , on Walnut St. 

The * University of Pennsylvania is situated near the intersection 
of Darby Ave. and 36th Sts. (W. Phila.), and has fine buildings of green 
serpentine, in collegiate Gothic architecture, whose dim halls are lighted 
by memorial windows of stained glass. The building occupied by the col- 
legiate and scientific departments has 260 ft. frontage, and is adorned 
with towers and turrets. Back of this is the hospital, and to the W. is 
the handsome building of the medical college. Tlie university park covers 
12* R 



274 Route SS. PHILADELPHIA. 

6 acres, and adjoins the Almshouse grounds. The museum is worthy of 
a visit, and the apparatus of tlie scientific department is of the most 
delicate and costly kind. 

Tliis institution was formed in 1701 by the union of the College of Phila. 
(founded in 1749) and an older academy, Avhicli dated from 1744 and was made a 
college in 1755. The medical college was founded before the Revolution by the 
eminent physicians, Wm. (Shippen and Jolm Morgan, and now has a European 
reputation, and is one of the leading medical schools in the country. The univer- 
sity is divided into departments of arts, science, medicine, and law, and has over 
30 professors and 7 - 800 students. The present buildings were erected in 1870 - 74. 
and are used for lectures, class-rooms, museums, etc., and the students board in 
the city. Previous to 1872 the University was located on 9th St., near Chestnut. 

Jiist S. of the University is the Phila. Almshouse (entrance at 36th 
St.), with 4 3-story buildings, forming a hollow square each of whose' 
sides is 500 ft. long. The main front is adorned with a fine Tuscan 
portico, supported by 6 columns, and large hospitals and insane wards 
are in the vicinity. The Almshouse grounds cover 187 acres, and slope 
down to the Schuylkill River opposite Gray's Ferry. To the S. E., and 
across the river, is the * U. S. Naval Asylum (Pine St. horse-cars), on the 
Gray's Ferry Road, near South St., an imposing marble building 380 ft. 
long, whose central section is entei-ed by a fine Ionic portico, supported 
by 8 columns. The official residences and ancient trophy cannon which 
are seen on the spacious and cultivated park are worthy of notice. There 
are 140 disabled veterans here, supported in comfort by the nation, and 
furnished with abundant tobacco-money. S. E. of the Naval Asylum is 
the U. S. Arsenal, devoted to making shoes, equipments, and clothing 
for the army. Beyond this point are the Harrison Boiler Works, the 
Gray's Ferry Chemical Works, and other manufactories. In this vicinity 
is the fine viaduct of the Junction R. R., and the South St. Bridge crosses 
the Schuylkill above the Asylum. 

Woodland Cemetery is S. W. of the University, and fronts on the 
Schuylkill near Gray's Ferry. The portal is a lofty pile of granite, sup- 
ported by 4 Doric columns, and a curving road leads to the fine old 
mansion which hence overlooks the river. The * Drexel mausoleum is 
the finest in the country, and is massively built of white marble in chaste 
classic architecture. The Moore monument is worthy of note, and is 
adorned with statuary. A tall obelisk has been erected to the memory 
of Com. Charles Steward, U. S. N., and an exquisite little monument 
covers the remains of Lieut. Greble of the U. S. Artillery, who was one 
of the first to fall in the Secession War. Darby Ave. runs S. W. from 
Woodland to the vicinity of the Mount Moriah Cemetery, which has 
jilcasant scenery along Cobb's (or Rinkermink) Creek. The Episcopal 
Divinity School is situated in the old Allibone mansion (corner of Walnut 
and 39th Sts. ). The Penn. Hospital for the Insane is still farther out in 
W. Phila. (reached by Market St. cars), and consists of 2 large buildings, 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 275 

430 ft. long, situated in finely adorned grounds covering 113 acres. The 
Hospital accommodates 500 patients, and is skilfully conducted. Here 
is kept Benjamin West's great picture of * " Christ healing the Sick." 
Visitors are adnutted every day except Saturday and Sunday (tickets at 
the Ledger office). A little over \ M. N. W. of the Hospital is the Cathe- 
dral Cemetery, containing 43 acres, and used by the Roman Catholics. 
Near this point is St. John's Ori^han Asylum, and to the N. W. is Heston- 
ville station, on the Penn. R. R. 

Broad St. is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, and is 15 M. 
long and 113 ft. wide, maintaining a course of undeviating straightness. 
It begins on the S. at League Island^ a low tract at the confluence of the 
Schuylkill and Delaware Rivers, wldch was given by the city to the 
United States, by whom it has been fitted for a first-class naval station. 
About 3 M. N. of the island the street reaches the Baltimore Depot, 
and the superb new Ridgway Library (which cost $1,500,000). At the 
corner of Pine St. is seen the Penn. Deaf and Dumb InstitxUiori, which 
was founded in 1821, and accommodates 150 students. It has a substan- 
tial granite building 235 ft. long, and is patronized by the States of Md., 
N. J., and Del. At the comer of Spruce St. is the fine green serpentine 
building of the * Beth-Eden Baptist Church, beyond which is the Horti- 
cultural Hall, famous for its annual floral shows. Just N. is the spa- 
cious Palladian building of the * Academy of Music, whose magnificent 
auditorium seats 2,900 persons, and is the largest opera-house in America. 
Beyond the Academy is the Union League house, a costly Renaissance 
building with rich interior decorations, paintings, statuary, etc. It is the 
seat of the Union League, which was formed in 1862 to aid the 
national government during the Secession War. The League raised 10 
regiments of soldiers, circulated 2,600,000 Union documents, and carried 
the State for the Republican party. It now has over 1,800 members. An 
introduction from a member entitles a stranger to the privileges of the 
building for one month. 

Beyond the La Pierre House Broad St. crosses Chestnut St. and passes 
(by two classic-fronted Presbyterian churches) to Penn Square, on which 
t'le immense and imposing building of the * Cifi/ Hull is being erected. 
This edifice is of white marble, 470 X 4S6| ft. in area, and covers 4^ acres. 
It will be six years in construction, and will cost over $ 10,000,000. 
There will be 520 fire-proof rooujs connected by four elevators (one in each 
corner) and six broad stairways. The building will be crowned by a mas- 
sive tower and dome over 300 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of Wil- 
liam Penn ; and many-columned pavilions break the continuity of each 
front. The facades toward the inner court-yard (which is 200 ft. square) 
are adorned with mediaival turrets. 



276 Route 3S. PHILADELPHIA. 

Here Broad St. is intersected by Market St. , the main thoroughfare of 
the wholesale trade and heavy transportation. To the r., near 12th St., 
are the freight-depots of the Penn. R. R., and also the great buildings 
of the Farmers' Market. To the 1., on Market St., is the Polytechnic 
College (W. of 17th St.), a jirosperous scienlitic institution with 5 tech- 
nical schools. On the W. of Penn. Square is the School of Design for 
women, intended for the teaching of meclianical drawing ; and one square 
W. (corner of Filbert and IGth St.) is the State Arsenal, containing also 
the Soldiers' and Sailors' Home, with its library. To the E. (Filbert St. 
below 12th) is the Honueopathic Medical College, and the College of 
Pharmacy (the hrst in the U. S.) is near 7th St. 

The new * Masonic Temple is on Penn Square (comer of Broad and 

Filbert Sts.), and is an imposing structure of granite, in pnre Norman 

architecture. It was completed in 1873, and is of wonderful solidity and 

strength. The main tower is 250 ft. high, and is adorned with quaint 

turrets of unequal altitude, and the Temple facade is a bold and stately 

piece of architecture, with round-arched windows and a massive flanking 

tower. The * Porch is of Quincy granite, and is enriched with all the re- 

.sources of the Norman style, in zigzag, billet, and chevron ornaments, 

and heavy round colunnis. The Temple cost $ 1,300,000. 

The Main Hall is a vestibule 250 ft. long, paved with colored marble, and con- 
strncted in Duric arcliitecture. The Grand Banqueting Hall is 105 x 50 ft. in 
area, and is adorned by Corinthian colonnades. The Oriental Hall is on tlie 
first floor, and is a brilliant example of Saracenic architecture, frescoed in 
arabesque designs. The Corinthian Hall (105 x 51 ft.) is occupied by the Grand 
Lodge, and is constructed in the rich Corinthian style, with furniture of walnut 
and cedar nnd blue velvet. The Grand Chapter Hall (90 x 50 ft., 60 ft. high) is iu 
Italian Renaissance architecture, with inlaid furniture and rich synibolisjns, the 
chief of which is the Veils of the Temple (containing 1,200 yards of French satin). 
The Egyptian Hall is of marvellous solidity, and is surrounded by 12 elephantine 
columns, whose capitals are copies of those found in the temples of the Nile. The 
panels are enriched with Egyptian emblems (the cobra, lotus, etc.), and the fur- 
niture is of gilded ebony covered with black and gold tapestry. The Ionic Hall is 
chaste and graceful, surrounded by 24 columns, and furnished with inlaid woods 
covered with blue and gold tapestry. The Norman Hall, the great Gothic cliam- 
her of the Asylum of the Connnanderies, the Red Cross Chamber (with its guarded 
tents), the Libraiy, and tiie Regalia Room are all worthy of inspection. 

Adjoining the Temple is the graceful cruciform white marble Arch-St. 
M. E. Church (costing $250,000), purely Gothic, with a spire 233 ft. high. 
The Lutheran Church of the Holy Communion is opposite, and is of 
green serpentine, in florid Gothic style, with great stained-glass windows, a 
sumptuous altar, and a massive and imposing tower. Opposite St. John's 
is the plain and spacious brown-stone First Baptist Church (Dr. G. D. 
Boardman), with a spire 225 ft. high. At the corner of Cherry St. is the 
florid Academy of the Fine Arts (costing $400,000), with Gothic windows 
and terra-cotta ornaments. Here are rich art-collections, marbles, casts, 
and lecture-rooms, with painting and sculpture. 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 3S. 27G a 

The * Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (entrance, 25c. ) is at 
the corner of Broad and Cherry Sts., and was dedicated in April, 1876, 
having cost $ 400,000. The building is 260 X 100 ft. in area, and is built 
of brick and stone, in florid Byzantine architecture, profusely adorned 
with colored tiles. Over the main portal is a colossal marble statue of 
Ceres, brought from Greece by Com. Patterson. The entrance-hall i.s 
brilliantly ornamented, and contains 30 pillars of polished marble. The 
rooms on the lower story are devoted to gratuitous art-education, with 
lecture and modelling rooms, studios, and casts. The second story is in 
three longitudinal sections, of which that on the r. is reserved for the 
great annual exhibitions. The central corridor is devoted to statuary, 
and contains W. W. Story's Jerusalem (" How doth the city sit solitaiy 
that was full of people ; how is she become as a widow ") ; Lombard is 
Deborah ; Spring, by E. D. Palmer ; Hero and Leander, by Steinkauser ; 
Penelope, by Rinaldini; and others. In a broad central expansion is the 
immense group of the Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithfe, by Lough. 

The Gilpm Gallery is in the N. W. part of the building, and contains 
6 marble statues copied from the antique, and copies of paintings by 
Domenichino, Raphael, Murillo, Titian, Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, 
Guido, Claude, and Correggio. The remainder of the pictures belonging 
to the Academy are in the S. galleries. They vary widely in merit, and 
have recently suffered from injudicious cleaning and restoration. The 
Benjamin West Gallery contains Paul and Silas, and also * Death on the 
Pale Horse, famous works of West. The other galleries on^he S. contain 
numerous pictures, and are named in honor of the early American paint- 
ers, — Washington Allston, Charles R. Leslie, Gilbert Stuart, Thomas 
Sully, and John Neagle. 

The Phillips Collection of prints was bequeathed to the Academy by Mr. Jolm 
S. Phillips, who has spent tliirty years in gathering, classifying, and pro])erly ar- 
ranging it. There are aboTit 50,000 iiietnres by 2,000 difle.rent engravers, many of 
them being very rare and valuable. The 'paintrra' richinfjs sue of esjiecial interest 
to artists and .students. This collection is sujierior to the Tosti and Gray Collec- 
tions of Boston and Cambridge. 

The * Academy of Natural Sciences has a neAv fire-proof building at 
the corner of 19th and Race Sts., fronting on Logan Square. It is con- 
structed of green serpentine and Ohio stone, in Collegiate Gothic archi- 
tecture, and is spacious and well-arranged, containing studios, reading- 
rooms, laboratories, and a library of over 25,000 volumes. Agassiz said 
of this museum that it was one of the finest anatomical, physical, and 
natural-science collections in the world. 

It contains over 250.000 specimens. — among which are Dr. Morton's collection 
of crania, 1,200 in number; Mexican and Peruvian human and animal mummies; 
270 skeletons ; 31,000 birds, of all classes and climes (the largest ornithological 



276 6 Route 3S. PHILADELPHIA. 



museum in the world) ; 1,170 varieties of fishes ; 900 mammals ; 800 reptiles ; 70,000 
varieties of plants; 25,000 of insects; 5,000 of mnierals; and 65,000 of I'ossils. 
The collection of shells contains over 100,000 siiecimens, and is only excelled by 
that in the British Museum. All these great collections are arranged in orderly 
sequence and in a convenient manner for tlie student. The Aca<leniy was founded 
in 1812, and remained at the corner of Broad and Sansom Sts. from 1S42 until 
lfe76. It is open to the peo^tle on Tuesday and Friday afternoons (fee, 10c. ). 

The * Young Men's Christian Association Building is at the corner 
of Chestnut ami 15th Sts., opposite the Colonnade Hotel, and is a large 
and imposing structure of Oliio sandstone, trimmed with rose-crystal mar- 
ble. The architecture is modified Venetian, massively treated, and the 
general effect is bold and striking. The area of the building is 72 X 230 
ft., four stories high, with a tower 153 ft. high. It contains a library yi 
reading-room, chapel, and other halls, to which young men are welcomed. 
The society was formed in 1854, and occupied this building in the sum- 
mer of 1876. 

The Baptist Publication House is on Chestnut St., near Broad St., 
and is 46 X 230 ft. in area, of chaste and dignified semi-classic architec- 
ture, the material being luipolished white marble. 

The Alhambra Palace has been built by the Kiralfys, at a cost of 
S 450,000, for a summer theatre. It is on Broad St., near Locust, and has 
a picturesf^ue iron front, in Saracenic architecture, richly painted and 
adorned. Adjacent is a concert-garden 600 ft. square, ornamented with 
statuary, cascades, and grottos. 

The Colosseum adjoins tlie Alhambra, and was formerly in New York City. 
It is a cylindrical iron building 129 ft. in diameter and 160 feet high, with a steam 
elevator ascending the central tower, whence a broad view is gained. The build- 
ing contains the i^yclorama of Paris by moonlight, covering 40,000 square feet of 
canvas, and shown as in a binl's-eye view froni near the Place de la Concorde. 
The effect is highly realistic and very beautiful. 

Tlie * Ridgway-Library building is at the comer of Broad and Chris- 
tian Sts., and is now externally completed. The grounds cover an entire 
sipiare, in whose centre on a terrace stands the building, resembling an 
Athenian temple. The area is 220 X 105 ft., and the cost has been 
$1,500,000. The material is light-colored granite, and the front is com- 
l)osed of a central portico, witli a classic pediment upheld by 8 Doric 
columns (30 ft. higli), flanked by wings (reading-rooms), each of which 
has a portico supported by 4 columns. The main library -hall is cruci- 
form, with 24 Ionic columns of polished marble. The mausoleum of Dr. 
Rush is opposite the main entrance ; and in the colonnaded Memorial 
Room are his j^ersonal effects. 

Dr. James Rush died in 1S69, leaving an immense fortune for the construction 
of this building, which was to be named Ridijway from his wife's maiden name. 
If the Philadelphia Library Company will accept the restrictions in his will, the 
structure will be appropriated to their use ; otherwise a new free library will be 
opened here. 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 88. 277 

Spring Garden St. is a wide avenue, with a parked centre, which inter- 
sects Broad St. Between Callowliill and Spring Garden Sts. (I. side) are 
the Baldwin Locomotive Works, the largest in the woi-ld (employing 
3,000 men) ; and the vicinity of the Reading R. R. track is filled with 
iron-works and factories, chief among which are the Norris Locomotive 
Works, Sellers' Macliine-Tool Works, and the great machine-shops of W. 
B. Bement & Son. The terminal station of the Phila. & Reading R. R. is 
at the corner of Broad and Callowhill Sts. At the corner of Broad and 
Green Sts. is the Central Hiyh School, opposite a fine Norman Church 
(Presbyterian). The next building is the Jewish * Synagogue Rodef 
Shalom, a quaint and imposing structure, exemplifying the richness of 
Saracenic architecture. The front portal is especially striking, and rests 
on massive polished columns. At the corner of Green and 18th Sts. 
is the new and attractive Norman building of the Central Congregational 
Church. 

At the corner of Broad St. and Fairmount Ave. Ridge Ave. turns N. W., 
running to Laurel Hill. Fine city mansions are now seen on either side, 
and attractive churches, the best of which is the Church of the Incarna- 
tion (corner of Jefferson St.), built of granite in Gothic architecture. 
At the corner of Columbia Ave. and 13th St. is the Wagner Free Institute 
of Science. Broad St., between Fairmount and Columbia Aves., is a favor- 
ite place for driving ; and beyond the Avenue Broad St. runs N. through 
rural districts, soon passing the Monumental Cemetery, a crowded bury- 
ing-ground which was founded in 1837, and was designed to be "the 
American Pere la Chaise." In the centre is a tall granite obelisk, in honor 
of Washington and Lafayette. 

Fairmount Ave. leads from Broad St. to the Eastern Penitentiary 
(near 21st St.), a castellated structure, where nearly 400 convicts froiu 
the E. coimties are guarded, on the separate system. The prison consists 
of 7 cell-lined halls, radiating from a central corridor which commands a 
view through each of them, and is situated on a tract of 11 acres, sur- 
rounded by a mas!^ive wall 30 ft. high. It cost $ 600,000, and was finished 
in 1829. Fairmount Ave. passes to Fairmount Park in 4 squares, and 
Corinthian Ave. runs N. to Girard College, near which (Poplar and 23d 
Sts.) is the House of Refuge, a great pile of buildings used for the deten- 
tion and reclamation of young criminals and vagrants. E. of this ]ioint 
is a reservoir which contains 37,500,000 gallons of water, and supplies 4 
wards of the city. 

Girard College is about 2 M. N. W. of Independence Hall (by Ridge- 
Ave. cars), and occupies 42 acres of high land, surrounded by a grim wall 
of masonry. The * * central building is probably the grandest existing 
specimen of the Corinthian temple-architecture, and presents an imposing 
front on every side. It is of white Penn. and Mass. marble, 218 X 160 ft. 



278 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

in area, and 97 ft. high, and is of remarkable massiveness and solidity. 
The cella (169 X 111 ft. ) is surrounded by a broad marble platform from 
which rise lofty fluted columns, surrounding the building and upholding 
a graceful cornice and pediment. Tlie colunms are 34 in number (8 at 
each end and 11 at each siile), each of which is composed of 12 pieces 
(6 ft. in diameter), weighs 103 tons, and cost $ 13,000. The capitals show 
all the richness of the Corinthian order ; and the platforms are approached 
by lines of marble steps which surround the building. The spacious halls 
at the N. and S. ends are paved with marble, and rest over strong-arched 
crypts. They are supported by lines of Ionic and Corinthian columns and 
antae ; and the cornices over the main portals are made of single blocks 
of marble, each of which is 25 ft. long. Inside the S. entrance (facing 
Corinthian Ave.) is a quaint statue of Stephen Girard, beneath which his 
remains are buried. The grand stairways lead off" to r. and 1 ., and are 
massively built in geometric style. They lead to the class-rooms and 
museums of the college on the floors above. The library (5-6,000 vol- 
umes) is to the r. of the statue ; and on the upper floor is a museum of 
tlie antique personal effects of Mr. Girard. Still farther up, by a narrow 
and sinuous stairway, is the roof, a vast plain of marble jouied with nicest 
skill and supported on brick arches. This fine piece of masonry weighs 
906 tons. A broad view of Phila. is aff"orded from the roof, including the 
Penitentiary, the hills of Fairmount, the numerous spires of the churches, 
and glimpses of the Delawai-e. W. of this building is a * monument to the 
men of the college who fell in the Secession War, — consisting of a statue 
of a soldier, standing on a lofty inscribed pedestal, and sheltered by a 
classic canopy which bears the State and national arms and is supported 
by 4 fluted Doric columns. On either side are plain marble buildings 
wluch are used for dormitories, refectories, and professors' residences. 
Extensive groimds are reserved for the sports of the students. 

Stephen Girard, "niarinar and merchant," was born at Bordeaux in 1750, and 
became a common sailor in 1704. In 1773 he was a sea-captain; and in 1777 
settled in Pliila. as a merchant. He died in 1831, leaving .$ 7,500,000, of which lie 
gave $300,000 to the State, 5! 110,000 to various charities, and $500,000 to the city, 
"besides vast amounts left in trust for the municipal police and other improve- 
ments. He left $ 2,000,000 and 45 acres of land for the endowment of a college 
for poor white male children without fathers and between and 10 years of age. 
Siich children are supjKjrted here for 8 years and are instructed from the alphabet 
up to the grade of high-school studies. He forbade the entrance of clergymen to 
the college-grounds under any pretext, and this prohibition is still enforced. 
Termits to visit the college should be ol)tained at the hotels or of one of the Di- 
rectors. There are now over 500 students in the institution, with 20 teachers. 
Thomas U. Walter was the architect of the college buildings. 

The Feirmle Medical College of Penn. is on N. College Ave., at the cor- 
ner of 22d Street., and is the first medical school ever established for 
women. 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 279 

• Tlie old Navy Yard was in the S. E. part of Pliila., hut nearly all its 
material has been removed to the new XJ. S. Navy Yard at League Isl- 
and, 7 M. S. of Chestnut St., where there are vast workshops, barracks, 
arsenals, artillery-parks, and costly dry-docks, with iron-clads and frig- 
ates moored in the stream. At the old yard the line-of-battle ship 
Pennsylvania was launched in 1837, in the presence of 100,000 peo- 
ple. She carried 140 cannon, and her mainmast was 250 ft. high. At 
one of the piers is the frigate Constitution, the most renowned vessel of 
the American Navy. During the War of 1812 she captiared the Java, 
the Guerriere, the Macedonian, and other fine British frigates, and was 
ever victorious. Of late years she has been used as a scliool-ship for mid- 
shipmen at Newport and Annapolis, and is widely known under the sou- 
briquet of " Old Ironsides." Just above the Navy Yard is the quaint 
Old Swedes' Church (reached by 2d and 3d St. cars), fronting on Otsego 
St. near Christian St. Tliis venerable structure was built in 1700 on the 
site of the fortilied log-church of 1677, and was attended by the Swedes 
who occupied Phila. before Penn and the Quakers arrived. In its mossy 
old graveyard is the tomb of Alexander Wilson, the great ornithologist, 
who travelled all over the continent getting materials for his work on 
American birds, which appeared in 9 volumes (1808-13). Wharton St. 
leads W. from the Navy Yard to the Moyamensing Prison (of Phila. 
County), an in)posing building of Quincy granite, with several towers and 
long lines of battlements. The old Debtors' Prison is to the N., and is a 
red sandstone building in Egyptian architecture. A few squares N. E. 
(Catherine St., near 7th) is the House of Industry, a cluster of charitable 
offices in the poorest part of the Moyamensing district. 

Below the Navy Yard are the extensive terminal wharves of the Penn. 
K. R., delivering freight on the margin of deep water. Above the Navy 
Yard are other crowded I'ailroad- wharves. At the foot of Almond St. is 
the lofty building of the Franklin Sugar Refinery, and the busy river- 
front extends N. by numerous wharves, passing the great oyster-depots at 
the foot of Spruce St., and the fruit-sheds at Dock St. Near the foot of 
Green St. the river bends to the N. E., and Beach St. passes the great 
lumber- wharves at the foot of Coates and Poplar Sts., and approaclies the 
network of tracks (occupying 1 M. of river-front at Riclimond) where the 
Reading R. R. reaches tide-water and discharges millions of tons of coal 
yearly, freighting large fleets of coasting-schooners and propellers. The 
Kensingi-'Ti district is also famed for its ship-yards, where are made the 
largest iron-steamers, for ocean service. At the corner of Front and 
Laurel Sts. are the Keystone Saw Works, covering 8 acres, employing 900 
men, and making 5 tons of edge-tools daily. On the r. side of Beach St., 
N. of Columbia St. (reached by 2d and 3d St. cars), is the monument 
which occupies the place of the Old Treaty Elm, under whose branches 



280 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

William Penn made with the Indian chiefs the famous treaty of fraternal 
love, " the only one ever made M'ithout an oath, and the only one never 
broken." In the N. part of Kensington (at the corner of Front and Him- 
tington Sts.) is the * imposing pile of new buildings in Norman architec- 
ture which contains the Hospital of the Episcopal Church in Phila., where 
patients are admitted without regard to creed or color. Hourly horse- 
cars run from Richmond to Bridesburg and Frankford. 

*Fairmouiit Park. 

This noble garden of the reople lies along the banks of the Schuylkill River and 
the Wissahickon Creek, in the N. W. part of the city proper. It was opened 
(with 70 acres area) in 185G, since which large sums have been spent in adorn- 
ment and in enlarging the bounds, until now it is the largest city park in the 
Avorld. Fairniomit covers 2,901 acres ; the Vienna Prater, 2,500 ; Richmond Hill, 
2,4G8 ; the I3ois de Boulogne, 2,158 ; Hampton Court, 1,872 ; Windsor Great Park, 
],800 ; Phoenix (Dublin), 1,752 ; Central (New York), 862 ; Dmid Hill (Baltimore), 
700 ; Prospect (Brooklyn), (;30. 

Fairmount is reached liy the 9th St. horse-cars from the Continental Hotel in 
30 min. ; also by the Arch St. line, the Vine St. line, and others. The Ridge Ave. 
cars run to the upper rnd of the Park, and visitors can reach this jtoint from any 
l)art of the city by means of transfer-tickets on the horse-cars. The Reading R. 
R. sends trains to Fairmount. Columbia Bridge, and Belmont ; the Norristown 
R. R. stops at Wissahickon and Chestnut Hill, and the Penn. R. R. stations of 
Mantua and Hestonville are near the S. border, rark-carriagcs traverse the most 
interesting districts, starting from the P'airmount entrance (50c. for the round trip 
in the E. or W. Park ; $1.50 for 1 person per hour, and 25c. for each additional 
I'erson). Small steamers run on the river from the water-works to Rockland, Bel- 
mont, Laurel Hill, and the Schuylkill Falls (16 trips daily; fare, up and back, 
25c.). Battcavx may be hired cheaply for trijis on the water, — for the Schuylkill 
near the carriage-stand at Fairmount ; for the Wissahickon, at Wissahickon Hall 
or Maple Spring. Distances. — Fairmovmt to the Cirard Avenue Bridge, 1 M. ; 
Lansdowne, 2^ ; Georges Hill, 3.'. ; Belmont, 3^; Mt. Prospect, 4-^— 6 ; the Falls 
(River Road), JJ ; the Falls (George's Hill), 6^ ; the Wissahickon, by the E. Bank, 
■i (by George's Hill, 1\; bv the River Road.'si); Fairmount, by the E. Bank to 
Maple Spring, 5^ M. ; the Pipe Bridge, Sj ; Indian Rock, 9J ; Chestnut Hill, 11^. 

The graceful mystery of skating is much jiractiscd on the Schuylkill during 
winter, under protection of the Phila. Skating Club. The suuuner regattas of the 
Schuylkill Navy are worthy of notice, and the Music-days draw great multi- 
tudes to the Park. (The Editor recommends C. S. Keyser's " Fairmount Park " 
as the best guide-book and souvenir of this great rtis in nrhe.) 

Fairmount Park includes 2,991 acres along tlie Schuylkill River, ex- 
tending up the stream for 7 M. ; and 450 acres along the Wissahickon for 
6 M. The Schuylkill (from the Dutch Sculk, liidden, and Kill, creek, so 
named on account of its half-concealed efflux into the Delaware) has an 
average width of \ ]\L, with high and picturesque banks. The main 
entrance to the Park passes a terraced hill, which was named Faire- 
Mount nearly 2 centuries ago. It now contains the 4 reservoirs (covering 
6 acres and 12 ft. deep) of the city water-works, with a capacity of about 
27,000,000 gallons. Tlie Schuylkill water is collected behind a dam 
1,600 ft. long, and is forced itp into the reservoirs by a powerful system 
of works, which are operated by water-wheels. Philadelphia has been 
supplied with this water for 75 years, and it is said to be purer than the 
waters which are used in New York and London. The fouling of the 



i 



PHILADELPHIA, Route 38. 281 

Schuylkill by the erection of factories along its banks has now been 
prevented by the city's right of eminent domain throughout the Park, 
and the remaining mills on the Wissahickon will be removed at the expi- 
ration of a few years. The reservoir is surrounded by a broad gravelled 
walk, and commands a pleasant view, including the lower portion of the 
Park, the white temple of Girard College, and tlie dense lines of the city 
streets. The Wire Bridge crosses the Schuylkill near this point, and be- 
tween Fairraount and the river are some indifferent pieces of statuary, 
and the old engine-houses of the water-works. Just N. of the reservoirs 
is a small fire-proof building containing a fine public art-gallery. 

The chief attraction is the immense picture, *The Battle of Gettysburg, painted 
by Rolhermd (" the American Rubens ") at the order of the State of Peun. This 
lias been called the finest battle-piece of ancient or modern times, and is remark- 
able also for its historic accuracy. Near by are 4 smaller paintings by the same 
master, representing episodes in the battle, — the Charge of the Peun. Reserves 
at Little Round Top, the Death of Reynolds, the Repulse of the Louisiana Tigers, 
and the Repulse of the Maryland Brigade from Gulp's Hill. At the oi>posite end 
of the hall is Benjamin West's great painting, * Christ Rejected by the Jewish 
People. Among the other pit^tures are portraits of Longfellow and Holmes ; the 
Holy Family ; a View of Ancient Fairmount ; several pictures of dogs and game ; 
Marine View, Moran ; the Duke of Guelder's Cruelty to his Father, Wittkamp ; 
Jeplitha's Daughter ; Death of Sir Philip Sidney ; Patrick Henry addressing the 
House of Burgesses, Rothermel; * Christian MartjTs in the Coliseum, Rothemiel; 
and a great allegorical painting of the New Republic, by Pauwels. 

Beyond this point the road leads out on an open plaza which is adorned 
with a colossal bronze * statue (in a sitting posture) of Abraham Lincoln, 
designed by Randolph Rogers, and cast at Munich. It is on a tall granite 
pedestal, on which are inscribed some of the immortal words of the 
martyr-president. On the river-front, above the steamboat lauding, are 
the graceful boat-houses of the Schuylkill Navy, an ancient rowing asso- 
ciation composed of 10 chibs, with 4 - 500 members and nearly 70 boats 
(valued at $100,000). This is the most complete and best organized 
society of the kind in the world, and has exciting regattas during the 
summer. The Mineral Spring is N. of the Plaza, and is covered by a 
neat pavilion. Tlie waters are chalybeate, and many visitors drink of 
them during the summer. Beycnd the Plaza the road ascends the slopes 
of Lemon Hill, which is crowned by a fine old mansion (now used as a 
restaurant) situated among stately trees. 

Robert Morris, the Patriot Financier and the right arm of Washington, lived 
in his mansion on Lemon Hill from 1776 to 1798. He was a member of Congress 
and a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and often reiilenished the empty 
treasury of the army at critical moments by pledging his personal credit. He paid 
off the murmuring army before the victory at Trenton, and raised $1,400,000 to 
equip the forces on their way to the final campaign of Yorktown. He was U. 8. 
Senator, 1789-95, and dcidined the secretaryship of the treasury ; but became in- 
volved in vast land speculations, wrecked his fortune, and in his C5th year was 
put in prison for debt. There he remained for 4 years, and died 4 years after his 
release. His estate, "The Hills," was bought by Henry Pratt, who laid out 
beautiful gardens and named it Lemon Hill. It was acquired by the city in 1837. 



282 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

The road passes on to the bhiffs of Sedgeley, which look across the 
Schuylkill to the groves of The Solitude. On this hill are the remains of 
a fort which was built during the Secession War for the defence of the 
city (while the rebels were marching through Penn.). Near this point is 
the small wooden cottage which was used as Grant's head-quarters at 
City Point, Va. The road now descends to the stately Girard Avenue 
Bridge, above which is seen the massive stone viaduct of the Connect- 
ing Railroad (travei'sed by through trains from New York for the West 
or South). Near this point are the Egyptian buildings of the Schuylkill 
Wetter -Works, whose capacity is 23,000,000 gallons a day (supplying 5 
wards of the city from a reservoir 124 ft. high, containing 9,800,000 gallons). 
Crossing the bridge, and turning to the 1., the visitor reaches Egglesfield, ' 
where in 1732 was located the club-house of the merry fishing-club called 
*' The Colonic in Schuylkill " (now " The State in Schuylkill," and located 
near Gray's Ferry). Beyond this is Tho Solitude, a villa which was built 
in 1785 by John Penn, the poet (and grandson of William Penn). This 
estate was boiight by the city a few years since, and was the last remnant 
owned by the Penn family of that great State which once was theirs. 
Near these grounds is seen the lofty stand-pipe of the W. Philadelphia 
water-works, which is 130 ft. high, and is surrounded by a circular stair- 
way. It is now used as a inil)lic observatory. 

The * Zoological Gardens are near the Girard Avenue Bridge, and con- 
tain a large invoice of animals from the Rocky Mts. and Western Amer- 
ica, including moose, black-tailed deer, elk, wolves, grizzlies, brown, 
black, and cinnamon bears, catamoimts, golden eagles, cross and silver 
foxes, etc. There are also buffalo, beaver, American lions, and panthers; 
and a large assortment of European animals are to be added in due time. 
Tlie Lansdoime Road passes to the N. under the massive arches of the 
railway viaduct, and enters the old Sweet Brier estate, whicli is now fitted 
uj) for the Children's Play-Ground. 

Saaiuel Breck was born in Boston, July 17, 1771, and was ediiotited at the 
French Royal Military College of Soreze (in Languedoc). He built the Sweet 
Brier mansion, and lived here for 38 years, engaged in jiublic li.e and the cultiva- 
tion of his model estate. While a child he had heard the cannonade at Bunker 
Hill, and at a later day he stood before Washington in Phila. In 1861 he wel- 
comed President Lincoln to the city, and he died in the darkest hour of the 
Secession War (Sept. 1, 1862), his last words being " What of— my country?" 

Beyond Sweet Brier the pleasant road reaches a rustic bridge over the 
Laiisdoimie Ravine, commanding a beautiful view up the river. Still 
farther on the road reaches the cluster of venerable pine-trees at the 
Lansdowne Concourse. 

On the hill near by stood the mansion of ^Lansdowne, until its destruction 
by fire, July 4, 1854. It was a stately house budt by John Penn, "the American 
Penn," Governor of the province 1763-71 and 1773-75; but the Penns were 
hostile to the cause of American Independence, and their public estate was con- 
fiscated by Congress, being " the largest one ever sequestered in civil war." The 



PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 283 

family claimed $5,000,000 compensation from the British government, and re- 
ceived an annuity of §20,000, )>esides a gift of $650,000 dollars from the State of 
Penn. Lansdowne Avas inhabited for a time by ex-king Joseph Bonaparte, and 
was afterwai'ds owned by Lord Ashburton. 

The road now passes tlie Micliaux grove of oaks, and ascends to the 
concourse on George's Hill, wlience is obtained a charming * view of 
the Park, the river, and the city, over wliicli are the white colonnades of 
Girard College. This ancestral estate (83 acres) was presented to the 
city by Jesse and Rebecca George, two venerable Friends. The grounds 
extending S. E. from George's Hill nearly to Sweet Brier are reserved for 
the U. S. Centennial Exposition of 1S76 (see Sujtplement). 

Between Lansdowne and George's Hill the roal passes a bronze group 
representing wolves (piarrelling over the body of a deer, and Stauch's 
bronze statue of Night is on George's Hill, near the pavilion. Lofty ob- 
servatoi-ies have been erected on Lemon Hill (225 ft. liigli), George's Hill 
(250 ft.), and at Belmont, whence noble views are gained over the Park 
and city. T!ie first two cost $ 150,000. Visitors ai'e carried to their tops 
by steam elevators (fee, 25c.). 

A road runs N. E. from George's Hill by the Belraont Reservoir 
(35,800,000 gallons) to the Belmont Mansion (* Proskauer's Restaurant), 
which was erected in 1745, and was often visited by Washington, Lafayette, 
Franklin, Morris, Jeiferson, Adams, Luzerne, Talleyrand, Louis Philippe, 
Joseph Bonaparte, and many other distinguished men. The proprietor, 
Judge Richard Peters, was an eminent jurist, author, and patriot, and 
was Secretary of War from 1776 to 1781. Tlie * view from this mansion 
is one of the noblest in the Park. The road now passes the Behnont Glen, 
a picturesque ravine on the W. side (leading to the Belmont sta- 
tion of the P. & R. R. R.). Just S. W. of the station is Tom Moore's 
Cottage, where the poet of love dwelt and wrote some beautiful poems, 
among which was the one beginning, — 

" Alone by the Schuylkill a wanderer roved. 
And dear were the flowery banks to his eye." 

The River Road runs thence N. E. 1 M. to the Falls Bridge, passing the 
Schuylkill viaduct of the Reading R. R. The road on the heights trav- 
erses Ridgeland beyond Belmont, then passes the Mt. Prospect mansion 
and the lake and concourse of Chamoimi, and reaches the Falls Bridge. 

The road on the E. bank beyond the Girard Avenue Bridge passes 
through a broad tunnel under Promontory Point, and crosses the ravine 
below Fountain Green. This shore is higher and bolder than that on the 
W., and has preserved more of its natural form. The Mount Pleasant 
Mansion is near the Columbia Bridge, and is a stately old colonial house 
dating from 1761. It was bought by Benedict Arnold in 1779, and was 
confiscated after his treason. General Steuben then occupied the estate. 



284 Rmte 38. PHILADELPHIA. 

Tlie road now passes the Rockland mansion and the old estates of Belle- 
ville (steamboat landing), Orndston, E<lgeley, and Wood/onl. The latter 
mansion was built in 1742. Beyond Strawberry Hill the road lies close 
to the river, with Laurel Hill Cemetery on the r., and soon reaches the 
J'^alls of Schuylkill, a busy factory-village amid pictures(iue surroimdings, 
with several old hotels which are famous for their " catfish and coffee." 
The Ridge Road now approaches Barren Hill, whence Lafayette made a 
masterly retreat, with 2,200 men, from the midst of heavy converging 
British columns. Part of the Battle of Germantowu was fought on this 
line. 

The * Wissahickon is a romantic stream which here diverges to the 
N. and is enclosed within the Park for 7 M. Its banks are high, rugged,* 
and well wooded ; and a pleasant road follows the up course of the de- 
scending waters, and passes several sequestered inns which furnish "cat- 
fish and coffee, wines and ices." Beyond the Maple Spring a lane leads 
to the Hermit's Well, above which is a sharp rock 200 ft. high, known 
as the Lover's Leap, h M. above the Log-Cabin are the casca<ies at the 
mouth of Paper-Mill Run, near which is the house where David Ritten- 
house, the great astronomer, was born (in 1732). \ M. beyond the Red 
Bridge is the lofty palisade called Mom Rinkle's Rock, in memory of an 
ancient tradition of its occupation by a weird woman who " drank dew 
from acorn-cups, and had the evil eye." \ M, beyond, high over a sharp 
bend in the road, is a venerable stone building called The Monastery, 
where, over a century ago, a band of German mystics came in, and 
watched and waited, with dim, quaint, religious rites, until they passed 
into the silent land. The road now passes the Caves ; and a short distance 
beyond the Pipe Bridge is seen, with 2 20-iuch mains conducting water 
to Germantown. Across the bridge above the Pipe Bridge a pathway 
leads to the dark basin on Cresheim Creek called the Devil's Pool. The 
road soon opens out to Valley Green, with its favorite hotel ; and ^ M. 
beyond it passes a marble fountain basin. 1 M. from Valley Green the 
lofty Indian Rock is seen on the E. towering over a deep and solemn 
gorge. In this vicinity lingered the last Indian band in this region. 1 M. 
beyond this point the road ascends to the villas of Chestnut Hill, beyond 
the Park. 

* Laurel Hill Cemetery adjoins the upper part of Fairmount Park, 
and may be reached by the Ridge Ave. horse-cars. It is one of the most 
spacious and beautiful cemeteries in the country, and is especially inter- 
esting from its fine views over the Schuylkill, and from the diversified 
character of its imdulating surface. The entrance is of brown-stone, in 
Doric architecture, and is supported by 8 columns. Near this portal is a 
group in sandstone, executed by Thorn, and representing Old Mortality 
with his pony, and Sir Walter Scott. 



Colmar 



SURROUNDINGS 




GERMANTOWN. Route 88. 285 

To the r. is the chapel, a plain Gothic building, near which is the grave of Gen. 
Hugh Mercer, wlio fell at Princeton (see page 2t)l). Under the bkiil's (.110 ft. higli) 
which liere line tJie river-bank, is the vault t>f Dr. Kane, the Arctic explorer, and 
also tlie tall monolithic obelisk over the remains of Charles Thomson, Secretaiy 
of Congress Irom 1774 to 1789, " the Sam Adams of Phila., the life of the cause of 
liberty." Among the eminent men buried here are Com. Isaac Hull, captor of 
the Guerriere (under a monument resembling that of Scipio, upon which an eagle 
keeps guard) ; Hassler, the director of the U. S. Coast Sui-vey ; Com. Alex. 
Murray, of the Mexican and Secession Wars ; Thomas Godfrey, the inventor of 
the quadrangle ; Judge Hobert T. Conrad, the author ; Gen. Patterson ; Admiral 
Lavallette, of the Mexican War ; Joseph S. Lewis, the projector of the Fairmount 
Water- Works ; Joseph C. Neal, the humorist (author of "Charcoal Sketches"); 
and Dr. R. M. Bird, the novelist. The new monument to Miss Bailey, constructed 
of polished Scotch granite, is worthy of attention ; also the recently erected bronze 
memorial statues, in the lower part of the grounds. The trees of Laurel Hill are 
justly celebrated, and include several fine cedars of Lebanon. The mausoleum 
of Louis A. Godey is a massive structure of white marble, in Egyptian architecture. 

Near Laurel Hill, and on the W. bank of the Schuylkill, is West Laurel 
Hill, a new cemetery, containing 110 acres. The Mt. Vernon Cemetery 
is near Laurel Hill, on Ridge Ave., and has a stately pyramidal mau- 
soleum adorned with groups of symbolic statues. Glemoood Cemetery 
contains 21 acres, and is on Ridge Ave., near Lslington Lane, wliich leads 
N. E. to the si3acio\is Odd Fellows' Cermtery (32 acres). 

Germantown may be visited either by horse-cars (passing through the 
German village of Nicetown), or by the railroad from the corner of 9th 
and Green Sts. It is 6 M. N. of Chestnut St., and forms the 22d Ward 
of the city. Along Germantown Ave. are several ancient colonial houses, 
with the small mercantile stores of the suburb. This is one of the most 
beautiful residence-quarters in America, and has long quiet streets lined 
with fine villas and pretty churches. Among the older buildings are 
shown Chew's House (where the Anxerican army was checked), Washing- 
ton's Head-quarters (on Market Square), and the ancient Button-Ball Tree 
Tavern. This village was settled in 1684 by Germans from Cresheim, on 
5,700 acres of land, which Pastorius bought of William Penn at a shilling 
an acre. Rittenhouse St. leads down from the main 'avenue into the 
quiet recesses of the Wissaliickon Valley, near Mom Rinkle's Rock; and 
Germantown Ave. and the Railroad run N. W. by Mount Airy to the 
pleasant and wealthy village of Cliestnut Hill, a favorite place of resi- 
dence for city merchants, and situated near the end of Fairmount Park. 

The ?mUU of Germantown Avas fouglit Oct. 4, 1777. After Gen. Howe had 
flanked Washington and captured Phila., his main division encamped at German- 
town, where it was attacked by surprise about daylight, and Avas thrown into 
great confusion. Line aiter line gave way before the impetuous rush of the Amer- 
icans, and for a time it seemed tliat the British army would be destroyed. But 
Ool. Musgrave and 5 companies of the 40th took refuge in Chew's large stone 
house, and effectually checked the victorious army. The house was cannonaded 
without effect, and meanwhile tlie retreating troops had been rallied and rein- 
forced, and attacked the Continentals, vvlio Avere enveloped in a dense fog, and 
were repulsed in detail. Washin;jton now commanded a retreat, after 2V hours of 
fighling, in which he had lost over 1,000 men. The British loss was '535. The 
Americans then Avent into camp on tlie heights beyond Whitemarsh, G M. from 
Mount Airy, and 5 weeks Liter retired to Valley Forge, 19 M. beyond. 



286 Route ?iS. CAMDEN. 

At nilnt/shiirrj is the new House of Correction, a vast pile of stone 
buildings (with 8 extensive wings), containing 2,000 cells, and estimated 
to cost § 1,000,000. Bridesbury is the seat of great cotton-niills, >vhich 
were occupied during the Secession War for the manufacture of arms. A 
short distance from tliis point is the Frankford Arsenal, a military post 
of the U. S. (visitors admitted during daylight). There are (52^ acres of 
grounds, on which are long Unes of cannon-balls, with a few pieces of brass 
artillery. This arsenal is devoted to the manufacture of fixed ammunition 
for the U. S. army ; and one of the buildings can turn out 1,000,000 car- 
tridges a day. All the ammunition for the national armies is made here; 
and during a great part of the Secession War work never ceased here, be- 
ing carried on by alternating gangs of men through Sundays and holidays 
and night and day. N. W. of Frankford is tlie stately building of the 
Friemls Lunatic Asylum, near the banks of Tacony Creek. 

Camden ( W. Jersey Hotel) is a city of New Jersey, opposite Phila., 
from which it is separated by the Delaware River. It is situated on a 
level plain, and has several new streets occupied by the residences of 
Phila. merchants. There are 26,000 inhabitants, with 17 churches and 3 
newspapers. There are 4 steam-ferries to Phila. ; and a bridge is pro- 
jected, — to be 120 ft. above the river and to cost $2,000,000. Besides 
being the terminus of several railroads, Camden is enriched by large 
manufactures, especially those of iron, glass, and chemicals. There are 
extensive ship-yards liere; and Esterbrook k Co.'s steel-pen manufactory 
is the largest of the kind in the U. S. The rural districts near the city 
are occupied by fruit and vegetable gardens, which sui)ply Phila. with 
market-produce. In the W. part of the city are the county buildings, 
near which are 2 soldiers' monuments. W. of the Court House is a line 
Catholic church ; and a pleasant residence-quarter extends to the N. 
Camden is a city of the 19th century, at whose beginning there were here 
only a few fishermen's cabins and a farm-house. In 1830 the population 
was 1,987; in 1870 it was 20,045 ; and in 1874 (estimated), 26,000. 
Windmill Island is in the Delaware River, opposite Camden, and was in 
ancient times joined to the N. J. shore. It was formerly used as a place 
of execution for pirates ; and in 1837 a canal was cut through for the 
passage of vessels. 

Just below Phila., and near League Island, is Fort Mifflin (46 guns), 

opposite which is Red Bank (in N. J.), Avhere may be seen the remains of 

old Fort Mercer, the Whitehall mansion (built in 1748), and the graves of 

many soldiers and of the Coimt Donop. In the N. outworks, near the 

river, is a marble monument, erected in honor of the victory won here. 

In the fall of 1777, after the Britisli occupation of Phila., Gen. Howe determined 
to open the conniiunication with the sea by capturing the American works which 
then commanded the river. Fort Mercer was garrisoned by the 1st and 2d R. I. 
X'egimeuts, under Lt.-Col. Greene ; Fort Mifflin (on Mud Island) was held by the 



RED BANK. Roxite 39. 287 

Maryland line ; and a small fleet defended the clievaux de frise in the river. Tlia 
Aniericau works at BiUingsport were carried by storm, and the hostile fleet and 
army advanced a^^ainst Red Bank. Count Donop erected a battery near Fort 
Mercer, and sent the summons : " The King of England orders liis rebellions sub- 
jects to lay down their arras ; and they are warned that, if they stand the battle, 
no quarters whatever will be given." The intrepid Greene sent back reply : "We 
ask no quarters, nor will we give any." After a sharp cannonade, 1,200 picked 
Hessians advanced to storm the works, and had reached the moat when a scatliing 
fire of grape-shot and mu.sketry was opened tipon them, and forced them to give 
way. A second Hessian division at the same time attacked the fort on tlie S., 
and its bravest leaders reached the sunmiit of the pai-apet, but were there cut 
down, and the remaining assailants were put to flight. The American artillery 
was directed by the French engineer, Chevalier Manduit, and did terrible execu- 
tion. The garrison lost 3S men ; and the Hessians lost 400, including their chief. 
Count Donop, who was extricated from a heap of dead soldiers, and soon died, 
saying, " It is finishing a noble career early, but I die the victim of my ambition 
and of the avarice of my sovereign." Meantime the British frigates had ap- 
proached Fort Mercer, but were beaten off by the American gun-boats. The next 
morning a determuied naval attack was made, and was as fiercely met. The frig- 
ate Augu-ita, of 04 guns, was set on fire by a hot shot, and soon blew up ; and the 
Merlin, IS, speedily met the same fate. The remainder of the hostile fleet dropped 
down the river in great haste, badly shattered by the guns of the forts and of 
Com. Hazlewood's flotilla. In November tlie British erected a line of lieavy bat- 
teries near Fort Mifllin, and l)rought up a fleet carrying 358 guns, with which a 
continuous bombardment was carried on for C days and niglits. Un the 15th, the 
Iris, Somerset, Fury, Viijilant, liocbuck, and other frigates, anchored where their 
yard-arms almost overhung the fort ; and, with the land-batteires, opened a ter- 
rific fire upon tlie crumbling ramparts. Witli marvellous heroism the 300 Mary- 
Lauder.s in the works Iccpt up a st&idy fire, until every gun was dismounted, 250 
of their number were killed or wounded, and the palisades and ])arapets were 
levelled with the earth. 1,000 shot and shell were liurled into Fort Mifflin within 
a few hours ; and at midnight tlie few survivors of the garrison fled from the 
corpse-strewn ruins to Foit Mercer. Cornwallis soon advanced against the latter 
work, and it was evacuated l)v the handful of troops who remained. Of the 47 
siniill vessels of the American fleet, 17 were burnt at Gloucester, and the remain- 
der crept by Phila. at night and reached the upper Delaware. Thus closed what 
may perhaps be considered the most heroic and Si)artan-lilce defence in the annals 
of America. 

39. Philadelphia to New York. 

By the Camden & Amboy 11. R. (pertaining to the Peini. R. R.) to S. Am boy, 
and thence by steamlioat to N. Y. Home trains on this line reach N. Y. by way 
of Trenton, Monmouth Junction, or Perth Amboy, and thence on Route 37. 

Stations. — Pliiladelphia ; Camden, 1 M. ; Fish House, 5 ; Palmyra, 8J ; 
Rivertcm, D ; Riverside, 12^ ; Delanco, 13 ; Beverly, 15^ ; Edgewater, 10 ; Bur- 
lington. 13^ ; Stevens. ISA ; Florence, 23 ; Kinkora, 25 ; White Hill, 27 ; Borden- 
town, 28 (Trenton, 34); Yardville, 31 ; Newtown, 34=J^ ; Windsor, 37^; Hightstown, 
41 : Cranberry, 44 ; Prospect Plains, 40 ; Jame.-iburg, 48.V (Daji,on, 52 ; Monmouth 
Jun(!tion, 54) ; Spottswood, 52 ; OW Bridge, 54i ; 8. Amboy, 62 ; New York, 03. 

The passenger leaves the foot of Market St. and crosses by ferry-boat 
to the Amboy station in Camden, whence the train pa.sses out through 
the city, and runs N. E. by several suburban stations. Crossing the 
Rancocas Creek, the train passes Delanco, and stops at Beverly ( Wash- 
ington House), a recent and populous village, with 5 churches and a U. 
S. Hospital. 4 M. beyond this point the train reaches Burlington {Bur- 
lington House ; Washington ; Belden), a river city of 5,817 inhabitants, 
with 9 churches, and broad straight streets. Fronting on the river are 
the buildings of Burlington College (founded by the Eitiscopalians in 



288 Rmte 39. BORDENTOWN. 

184G) .and St. Mary's Hall. The Delaware is 1 M. wide at this point, 

and on the opposite shore is the Penn. hamlet of Bristol. Burlington is 

the seat of large preserving establishments, and has a branch R, R. to Mt. 

Holly (7 M.), and daily steamboats to Philadelphia (19 M.). The city 

was founded by Quakers in 1667, and was bombarded by British gunboats 

in 1776 and 1778. The train now runs N. E. by Kinkora (whence a 

branch line diverges to New Lisbon) to 'BordiQUtown {Bordentoimi Jloiise ; 

American), a city of over 6,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, a female 

college, and the N. J. Collegiate Institute. It is the seat of several large 

foundries and machine-shops, and has the terminal basins of the Delaware 

and Raritan Canal. The railroad passes below the level of the streets, 

which are on a plain elevated 65 ft. above tlie Delaware. Many Phila-* 

delphians seek summer rest here, attracted by the neatness of the city 

and its pleasant environs. 

Bordeutown was settled at an early date by Joseph Borden, and was plundered 
in 1778 by a British naval expedition from Phila. In 1816 it was chosen as a 
home by the ex-king Joseph Bonaparte, and here he lived for 26 years, occupying 
a mansion in a broad and sx)aeious parlc. 

Tlie train runs over Crosswicks Creek, and passes Yardville, Newtown, 
and Windsor, beyond which the Pembertown & Hightstown R. R. comes 
in from the S., and Hightstown (locally famous for its classical scliools) is 
entered. 

A branch R. R. runs N. W. from Jamesburg to Monmouth Junction, on the 
N. Y. Div. of the Penn. R. R. The Freehold & Jamesburg R. R. runs S. E. to 
the ocean in 33 M. (3 honrs). Stations, Lower Jamesburg, Manalapan, and 
Freeliold (Amp.rica n House; IVaahimjton), the capital of Monmouth County, — 
a pleasant village with 4,231 inhabitants, 3 acadennes, and 5 ehnrches. The 
Battle of Mo}imonth was fought on June 28, 1778, near the village of Freehold. 8ir 
lienry Clinttm was retreating from Phila. to N. Y., and was closely followed by 
the American army. His choice trooi)s were disposed in the rear-guard, and the 
baggage was hurried on in advance. Early on the hot, dry morning of June 28, 
the American vanguard, under Lee, Lafayette, and Wayne, assailed the royalist 
forces, and, for a time, gained decided advantages ; but Lee ordered an unaccount- 
able retreat, which resulted in a iiauic-struck flight, through which the hostile 
grenadiers rushed cheering. Wlien the routed vanguard reached the main army. 
Washington gave Lee a stinging rebuke, and drew up the forces in order of battle. 
The troops of the van were again put to flight, and the enemy attacked the centre 
and riglit wing of the army. The grenadiers charged in beautiful order, but their 
commander and oflicers were picked oif l>y Wayne's riflemen, and Knox's batteries 
kept up a continuous lire with great jirccision. Tlic British then fell back rai>- 
idly, pursued by the Continentals, and encamped on the heights. Every prepara- 
tion was made to renew the action on the following morning, but during the night 
the enemy retreated noiselessly and escaped. The Americans lost 228 men, and the 
British lost about 300. Lee was court-martialletl and suspended from the service 
(after challenging Washington to a duel) for his very equivocal conduct in the 
early jtart of the battle. 

Beyond Freehold the branch line runs S. E. across a thinly settled region of 
pine-plains (of sinister fame during the Revolutionary era as sheltering bands of 
desperate banditti). At Farmimjdale the N. J. Southern R. R. is crossed, and 
the slow-moving train passes on to the old marine handet of Sqnan and the ocean- 
viewing beach of Sea Girt, — a quiet summer resort, with several boarding-houses. 
A few M. S. is the secluded seashore retreat of Paint Pleasant, in the pine-lands 2 
M. from Barnegat Bay. A road leads N. near the sea, and, crossing the shallow 
estuary of Shark River, passes on to Ocean Grove and Long Branch. 



LONG BRANCH. Route 40. 289 

The New York train nins N, E. from Jamesbiirg over partially denuded 
pine-plains and through a dreary and sparsely populated country to the 
South River, which is crossed at Herbertsville. South Amboy is situ- 
ated on Raritan Bay, at the mouth of the Raritan River, which separates 
it from Perth Amboy (see page 257), and here the traveller enters a steam- 
boat which passes by Staten Island and iip the Bay of New York to Pier 
1, N. R. The latter portion of the route is very interesting and pictu- 
resque (see page 45). 

40. New York to Long Branch and the Delaware Bay. 

By the N. J. Southern R. R. To Long Branch in 2 hrs. ; to Philadelphia (fare, 
$2.25) in 5^ hrs. ; to Bay yidc in 7} hrs. 

Stations. —New York; Sandy Hook Pier, (about) 20 M . ; Highlands, 25; 
Seabright, 27 ; Atlanticville, 30 ; Long Branch, 3i ; Branchport, 33 ; Oceanport, 
3i ; Eatontowu Junction, 36 (branch to Port Monmouth, 4G) ; Shark River, 42; 
Fariningdale, 46 ; Squankum, 47 ; Bricksburg, 53 ; White's Bridge, 57 : Ridgeway, 
59 ; Manchester, Gl ; "Whiting's, 07 (branch to Pemberton Junction and Philadcl- 
I)hia) ; Woodraansie, 74 ; Shamong, 79 ; Atsion, 91 (branch to Atco) ; Cranberry 
Park, 03 ; Winslow Junction, 09 ; Cedar Lake, 105 ; Landisville, 110 ; Vineland, 
115; Rosenhayn, 121; Bridgeton, 127; Bowento^vn, 130; Greenwich, 134; Bay 
Side, 137. 

Spacious and elegant steamboats leave Pier 8, North River, and pass 
down the Bay of New York, affording pleasant views of the great cities 
along the shores, the heights and villages of Staten Island, and the forts 
which guard the Narrows. Below the Lower Bay tlie Higlilands of 
Navesink are approached ; and crossing Sandy Hook Bay the steamer 
reaches the N. terminus of the N. J. Southern R. R. At the N. end of 
Sandy Hook are 2 beacons and a powerfid light, near the new fortifications 
Avhich are designed to command the main ship-channel. Tlie train now 
runs S. along the long and narrow peninsula, with the ocean on the 1. and 
the Highlands on the r,, beyond the broad estuaries of the Navesink and 
Shrewsbur)-- Rivers. Passing the fishing hamlet of Seabright, the line 
reaches 

Long Branch. 

Hotels. — * Ocean Hotel (Lelands'), oecmpying ten acres and accommodating 
1,000 guests, at $5 a day; the *\Vest End, very fashionable, and a favorite of 
statesmen and diplomats, is at the S. part of the beach (S 5 a day) ; the * Mansion 
House is close to tlie sea, surrounded with piazzas, accommodates 500 guests, 
and charges i^A a day; the *Howland is a favorite resort of Pliiladelphians, and 
has ro(nns for 500 guests ; the * United States is S. of the Mansion House, and 
can take 500 boarders ; the Pavilion (100 guests) has pleasant lawns. The East- 
End Hotel is partly devoted to excursionists ; the Sans Souci is on tlie European 
plan ; the Ceutral (with restaurant) is well situated ; and the Clarendon is small, 
but good. * laucli's is famous for its restaurant, the Delmonico's of Long 
Branch. There are several smaller hotels, and board may be secured in private 
families for $ 10 - IS a week. 

Long Branch, "the summer capital of the Republic," occupies a bold 

and wave-washed strand which was formerly the resort of fishermen and 

wreckers. Within the past decade it has attained a foremost position 

among the American summer resorts; inmiense hotels have arisen upon 

the shore, and costly private cottages have been built along the broad 

13 S 



290 Route J^. LONG BRANCH. 

avenues. The President and other eminent men occupy summer homes 
here ; and brilliant companies of fashionable people frequent the hotels. 
Tlie rapid growth of Long Branch is partly due to its proximity to N. Y. 
and Phila., and partly to its fine beach. The hotels are situated on the 
Bluff, a broad plateau 20 ft. above the sea, of which it commands a grand 
view. Bathing is usually done near the time of high tide, when white 
flags are hoisted on the hotels, and boats are stationed outside the surf- 
line to assist persons who get into too deep water. Before 6 o'clock, A. M., 
gentlemen are allowed to bathe without costume. The quaint and brill- 
iant dresses of the bathers during the regular hours form a pleasant spec- 
tacle, and the surf is then dotted with groups of enthusiastic people. A 
bath-house containing 100 rooms has been built for those who cannot 
meet the shock of the waves, and warm salt-water baths are given here. 
There is a fine drive S. from the Ocean Hotel for 2 M. along the bluffs, 
whence another drive-way leads through Hollywood Park to old Long 
Branch, Oceanport, and Red Bank (10 M.). Another macadamized road 
leads to Atlanticville, Seabright, and the Highlands (8 M.). Monmouth 
Park is 3 M. from Long Brancli, and is one of the most famous race- 
courses in America. Tt cost .$250,000, and covers 127^ acres. The 
races begin about July 3, and include heats, dashes, steejile-chases, 
and hurdle-races. Pleasure Bay {N. Y. Hotel ; Price's) is 3 M. from 
the Branch, on the Shrewsbury River, and is famous for oysters and 
crabs. Yachts and small boats may be hired here for fishing or sailing 
on the broad river. The old hamlet of Long Branch is 2 M. from the 
shore ; Red Bank is 8 M. distant ; and Eatontown is 5 M. W, Oceanport 
(Dunbarton House) is 4 M. N. W. of the Branch, and is near the far- 
viewing summits of Wolf and Dunbarton Hills. The Tinton Falls, 
Rumson Neck, Branch Port, and other points along tlie Shrewsbury 
River are much visited by way of pleasant roads. Deal {* Hathmvay's 
Hotel ; Allen's) is an old village on the shore 5 M. S. of Long Branch; 
below which are the great Methodist resorts known as Ocean Grove and 
Asbury Park, containing several hundred cottages (and, in the season, 
great numbers of tents). In this vicinity are the Sunset, Fletcher, and 
Asbury Lakes. Farther S. is Shark River, a favorite objective point for 
excursions from the Branch, and famed for oysters and crabs. 

Red Bank (* Globe Hotel ; West-End ; Union) is a village of over 
3,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches and 3 academies, and is prettily situ- 
ated on the Shrewsbury River, which is here f M. wide. It is a favorite 
port for yachtsmen and other pleasure-seekers ; and artists frequent the 
vicinity for the sake of the pleasant marine views. Shell -fish are found 
in great variety and abundance, and large oyster-beds are located in the 
Shrewsbury River. Steamboats run from New York to Red Bank daily 



NAVESINK HIGHLANDS. Route 40. 291 

(according to the tide) in 3^ hrs. (fare 50c.) ; and stages leave for the 
neighboring villages. Red Bank is IJ hrs. from N. Y., by rail. 

The Highlands of Navesink {'"'Atlantic Hotel; Schenck's, — $3 a 
day) are bold hills between the Navesink River and Sandy Hook Bay. 
They are rugged and picturesque in their outlines, and are diversified by 
fine reaches of woodlands. Mount Mitchell is the highest summit, and 
reaches an altitude of 282 ft., whence broad ocean-views are gained. Far 
up on the heights are 2 lighthouses, of which that to the S. is 248 ft. 
above the sea, and has one of the most powerful Fresnel lights on the 
coast. This range is usually the first land seen on approaching New 
York, and is also the last in sight for departing vessels. It is said that 
the name '* Neversink " was applied to these hills by impatient sailors 
eastward bound and held on the coast by adverse winds. The fishing 
and bathing in this vicinity, together with the pleasant rambles and broad 
news, have made it a favorite summer resort. The steamers from New 
York to Red Bank touch at tliis dock daily. 



Leaving Long Branch the train runs W. by Branchport and Oceanport 
to Eatontown Junction, whence a branch di\'erges by the village of Red 
Bank to Port Monmouth, 10 M. N., on Sandy Hook Bay. From Eaton- 
town the main line runs S. W. by SJiark River (stages to Squan Beach), 
Farmingdale (crossing of the Freehold & Jamesburg R. R., see page 288), 
and Squankum, to Brickshurg (Talmadge House), a large village on the 
Metedeconk River. A road to the E. leads to Island Beach, a narrow 
strip of sand over 20 M. long, between Barnegat Bay and the sea. There 
are two small hotels far down on this beach. The line now traverses a 
level country to Manchester {Manchester Hoitse), where the R. R. work- 
shops are located. 

Tom's Kiver {*Ocmn House; Magnolia) is a quiet summer resort 7 M. from 
Manchester by a branch R. R. It has 1,2()0 inhabitants, and is the capital of 
Ocean County. The chief industries are the coastiug-trade and the cranberry 
culture, and the vicinity is much visited in autumn by sportsmen in quest of wild 
ducks and other aquatic fowl. The village is 5 M. from the ocean, and the air is 
cool and salubrious. Near the outer strand of Barnegat Beach is a small hamlet 
with an inn which is much resorted to by gunners. The defences of Tom's River 
Avere carried by storm in March, 17S2, and the village was destroyed. The Tom's 
River R. R. runs S. from this point for 13 M. over the moors which border Barne- 
gat Bay, and joins the Tuckerton R. R. at Barnegat Junction. 

The Tvckerton R. R. diverges from the N. J. Southern R. R. at J^^iting's, and 
nuis S. E. througli a flat, sandy, and thinly populated country to Barnegat, whence 
it follows the marshy shores of the salt-water estuaries to Tuckerton, a small 
maritime hamlet near the sea. The Carlton House is visited in summer, and the 
fishing (weak and blue lish) in the vicinity furnishes an exciting sport. On the 
adjacent Long Beach (Bond's Long Beach House, and others) many aquatic birds 
are shot during the autumn. This town was founded by Eben Tucker, and formerly 
exported large quantities of sassafras, wliich was much valued in Europe during the 
last century. Many privateers resorted to this point during the Revolution, and 
brought in valualile prizes from time to time. A British naval expedition of 10 
vessels and 700 soldiers captured the place, together with 30 vessels in the harbor. 



292 Route//). BRIDGETON. 

burnt the villages adjacent, and exterminated the advanced guard of Pulaski's 
Legion, which was hastening to the rehcf. The sloop-of-war Zebra grounded 
while i>assing out of the harbor, and was destroyed by fire. 

The maiii line passes S. from Manchester to Whiting's, whence a track 
runs due W. 18 M. to Pemberton Junction, where connections are made 
Avith the Penn . Ft. R. for Philadelphia. The Vineland Division passes S. 
W. from Whiting's by the petty stations of Ferrago, Wheatland, Wood- 
niansie, Shamong, Harris, Hanjpton, and Atsion, -whence a branch R. R. 
runs to Atco. About Atsion tlie capacious town of Fruitland has been 
laid out, in a locality Avhich is thought to be adapted to the cranbeiTy 
culture. Of the 254,000 bushels of cranberries raised in the U. S. in 1871, 
this State furnished 150,000, — and the 3 coast counties raised 130,000 
bushels. This branch of fanning is very profitable, as the cranberries 
hring $3.50-$4 a bushel. To the S. is Batsto, whose iron-works were 
employed throughout the Revolution in making shot and sliell for the Con- 
tinental army from the bog-iron ore which abounds hereabouts. At Edgc- 
2>elick, 3 M. N. of Atsion, the Indians of N. J. made their last sojourn, 
F>rainerd converted tlie tribe, and resided here with them ; but the com- 
munity went West about the year 1800. 

Running S. W. from Atsion the line passes N. Ha'nmiontoa and inter- 
sects the Camden & Atlantic R. R. (Route 42) at Winslnw Junction. 
Stations, Winslow (Hays' glass-works Cedar Lake, Landisville, Wheat 
Road, and Vineland (see Route 43), where the W. Jersey R. R, is inter- 
sected. Crossing the Maurice River tlie train runs W. by Bradway, 
Rosenhayn, and WoodruflPs to Bridge ton {Bridgeton Hotel), a city of 
8,000 inhabitants, with 13 churches, 3 papers, and 4 seminaries. It is 
situated on the Cohansey River (over which there are 3 bridges), and has 
a line of steamers to Philadelphia, lliere are here 46 factories, with an 
aggregate capital of .$1,313,000 (rolling-mill, foundry, nails, glass, wool- 
lens) . The Cumberland County buildings, the Cohansey, W. Jersey, and 
S. Jersey Academies, are all on the W. of the creek. 

The Brid{ieton d- Port Norris R R. runs 20 M. S. E. to Port Norris. It follows 
the Cohansey to Fairton, and then runs S. to CednrviUe, in the centre of the town 
of Fairfield, which was settled by men of Fairfield, Conn., in 1697. On the S. 
are the broad salt-marshes which border on Delaware Bay. Stations, Newport 
(N. of Bear Swamp), Dividing Creek, Mauricetown (2-3 M. W. of the hamlet), 
and Port Norris, near the mouth of the Maurice River. This town was settled 
by the Swedes (1637-54), and the river derives its name from the fact that one of 
their ships, the Prince Maurice, was attacked and burnt by the Indians above 
Mauricetown. 

The main line runs S. W. from Bridgeton, by the stations of Bowen- 

town, Sheppard's Mills, and Greenwich, to Bay Side, its S. terminus, on 

Delaware Bay. A railroad ferry is projected from this point to Bombay 

Hook, in the State of Delaware. 

The last 4 .stations are in the town of Greenwich, whose Indian remains show 
that a large aboriginal population occupied this region. It was settled about 



MOUNT HOLLY. Routed. 293 

1680 by New-Englanders and others. After the " Boston tea-party," the East 
India Company sent the ship Greyhound- up the Cohausey to Greenwich with a 
cargo of tea. On tlie night of Nov. 22, 1774, 40 citizens disguised as Indians took 
the tea. from the storehouse, and, piling tlie chests in an adjacent field, destroyed 
the whole cargo by fire. Civil suits were brought against these bold patriots, but 
were dropped alter the battles around Boston. 

4L Philadelphia to Long Branch and New York. 

Bv the Camden & Burlington County R. R.. and the N. J. Southern R. R. 
From Philadelphia to Long Branch, 79 M.; to New York, 110 M. (fare, $2.25). 

Stations. — Philadelphia ; Camden, 1 ; Merchantville, G ; Stiles', 8 ; W. 
Mnorestown, 10; E. Moorestown, 11; Hartford, 14; Masonville, 15; Hainesport, 
1^; Mt. Holly, 19; Smithville, 22; Ewansville, 23; Birmingham, 24; ?\. J. 
s.iutliern Junction, 25 ; Pemberton, 26 ; New Lisbon, 29 ; Hanover, 35 ; Whiting's, 
A?, ; Manchester, 49 ; Bricksburg, 57 ; Farmingdale, 64 ; Shark River. 68 ; Eaton- 
town Junction, 74 ; Eatontfjwn, 75 ; Oceauport, 76 ; Branchport, 77 ; Long Branch, 
79 ; Seabright, 83 ; Highlands, 85 ; Sandy Hook Pier, 90 ; New York, 110. 

The train diverges from the Camden & Amboy line at the Junction, and 
runs E. by the large village of Moorestown and several minor handets. 
19 M. from Philadelphia it reaches Mount Holly (2 inns), the capital of 
Burlington County, on the Rancocas Creek. It has 4,000 inhabitants, and 
is surrounded by a fruitful coimtry. To the N. is the hill from which the 
place is named. It is 200 ft, high, and overlooks a w^ide extent of the 
W. Jersey plains. 

Mt. Holly was settled by the Friends, and was garrisoned during part of the 
Revolution by British troops, one of whose officers afterwards became King 
William IV, of England. At a later day many of tlie French refugees from St. 
Domingo were domiciled here, and Stephen Girard peddled cigars and raisins. 
John Woolman, the Apostle of the Friends, was born here in 1720, and spent an 
active life in works of beneficence. He made many religious journeys through 
the Jerseys, and lived in a style of stern simplicity. At that early day he de- 
nounced Africa*!! skivery, deprecated sectarianism, and strove for purity of life 
and sweetness of culture. 

The Medfonl Branch runs S. 6 J M. from Mt. Hollv, bv Lnmberton, to Medford; 
and the B. & Mt. H. R. R. runs N, W. 7 M. to Burilngton (see page 288). 

The N. Y. train runs E. from Mt. Holly to Ewansville (whence a 
branch R. R. diverges to Vincentown, 3 M. S.) and Pemberton Junction. 
The Pemberton & Hightstown R. R. diverges here to the N. E., and 
passes Leunstown (crossing of Kinkora Branch R. R.), Wrightstown, 
New Egypt, Homerstown, Imlaystown, and Hightstown (on the Camden 
& Amboy R. R., 26 M. from Pemberton). From New Lisbon, 4 M. E. 
of Pemberton Junction, a branch line runs N. W., tlirough Lewistown, 
JuliustoAvn, Jobstown, and Columbus, to Kinkora, on the Delaware 
River and Camden & Amboy R. R. Tlie train now passes across desolate 
pine -plains, poor and sparsely populated, to Whiting's, on the N. J. 
Southern R. R,, 18 M. from Pemberton. From Whiting's to Long Branch 
and New York, see Route 40 (reversed). 



294 Route 42. ATLANTIC CITY. 



42. Philadelphia to Atlantic City. 

By the Camden &; Atlantic H. R. in 2-:! lirs., traversing the level sandy 
plains of Lower New Jersey, and passing through a thinly settled but eligible 
country whi(;li is now being developed. 

Stations. — Philadeljihia ; Cooper's Point (Camden), 1 M. ; Haddonfield, 8; 
Ashland, 11 ; White Horse, 13 ; Berlin, 18 ; Atco, 20 (branch to Atsion, on the N. 
J. Southern R. R.) ; Wat^rford, 24; Ancora, 25; Winslow, 28 (crossing of the 
N. J. Southern R. R.) ; Hammonton, 31 ; Da Costa, 33; Elwood, 35; Egg Har- 
bor, 42 (branch to May's Landing, 49) ; Pomona, 48 ; Absecom, 53 ; Atlantic 
City, 60. 

Passengers leave the foot of Vine St., Phila., by a ferry-boat which 
crosses the Delaware to the R. R. station at Cooper's Point, in Camden. 
The train runs oljliquely across Camden, and tlience over level plains to 
Haddonfield (2 inns), a pleasant village where many Pliiladclphians pass 
the summer. It was settled by the Friends before 1690, and was named 
after an eminent preacher of that sect. The Continental Congress re- 
mained several weeks here, and the place was afterwards occupied by 
British troops. A large proportion of the present population belongs to 
the Friends, and that sect has 2 churches here. The train now passes the 
rural stations of Ashland, White Horse, and Berlin, and reaches Atco, a 
small glass-working hamlet. Branch lines diverge hence to Williamstown 
(9 M. S. VV.), and to Atsion, on the N. J. Southern R. R. Stations, 
Waterford, Ancora, Winsloio Junction (crossing of the N. J. Southern R. 
R. ), and Havimonton (Hammonton House), a fruit-producing village set- 
tled by New-Englanders in 1860, and situated on the old pine-plains of 
Atlantic County. This is one of the numerous "cities on paper" of S. 
New Jersey, and imaginary streets are laid out for many miles on each 
side. Da Costa, Elwood, and Egg Harbor City {Neio York Hotel) are 
next passed, and are the sites of projected cities, with parks, avenues, 
and squares laid out on the long reaches of level sand. A German colony 
has recently settled at Egg Harbor, whence a branch R. R. runs S. W. 7 
M. to May's Landing (American Hotel), the county-seat. This village 
was fovmded in 1710, and is at the head of navigation on the Great Egg 
Harbor River. The train on the main line passes Pomona and reaches 
Absecom (Absecom House; Franklin), whence stages run S. W., by the 
borders of vast salt-marshes, to Leed's Point and Soniers' Point, on Great 
Egg Harbor Bay. Beyond Absecom the train passes out on the marshes 
between Absecom Bay and Lake's Bay, and after running 7 M., and cross- 
ing 2 narrow straits, it enters 

Atlantic City. 

Hotelg, — * United States, between Del., Md., Atlantic, and Pacific Aves., 
accommodating 700 guests ; *Congi-ess Hall, N. W. corner of Mass. and Pacific 
Aves. ; *Surf House, between R. I. and Vt. Aves. The prices at these large 
hotels are $2.50 -3.50 a day. The Chalfont, Clarendon, Tremont, Light-House. 
St. Charles, and other houses are less expensive ; and tliere are numerous large 



ATLANTIC CITY. Route 43. 295 

tnling-liouses, charging S 10 -20 a week. Another new and palatial hotel is 
ji. ally completed, and will be opened in tlic summer of 1874. 

Railroads. —The Camden & Atlantic, to Phila. in 50 M. (Strains daily in 
summer) ; to New York in 12G M., by the Camden & Atlantic to Winslow.and 
tlience by the N. J. Southern R. R. (Route 40). 

Atlantic City was settled in 1818, and became a city in 1854. It has 
over 1,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches, and is laid out with broad and 
pleasant avenues. Witidu a few years it has become a favorite summer 
resort, especially for the citizens of Philadelplua; and the season lasts 
from July to the middle of September. Near the outer point of the island 
on which the hotels are located is a lofty stone lighthouse which bears a 
j)Owerful first-class light. There are nearly 50 hotels at the city, and 
40,000 guests a year an'ive here; and the social element, in hops, balls, 
and receptions, is supervised by some of the leaders of Philadelphia 
society. The beach is one of the best on the coast, and affords fine bath- 
ing facilities; while the boating and fishing on the adjacent inlets and 
outer waters afford fine amusement. The country in the vicinity is unin- 
teresting, and consists, for the most part, of flat salt-marshes. The 
autumnal sport of duck-shooting is successfully followed here. N. of 
Atlantic City, across Absecom Inlet, is the long and unbroken Brigantine 
Beach, which is called by seamen " the graveyard," on account of the 
number of fatal wrecks which have taken place there. 

43. Philadelphia to Cape May. 

By the West Jersey R. R., whicli traverses the thinly populated plains of the 
S. counties of N. J., with several branch-lines diverging to the ports of the Dehi- 
ware. 

Stations. — Philadelphia ; Camden, 1 M. ; Gloucester, 4 ; Westville, 5 ; Wood- 
bury, 9 (branch to Berkley, 13 ; Clarksboro', 14 ; Swedesboro', 19) ; Mantua, 12 ; 
Baruesboro', 14 ; Glasslwjro', 18 ; Clayton, 21 ; Franklinville, 24 ; lona, 25 ; Mal- 
aga. 28 ; Newfield, 30 ; N. Vineland, 31 ; Vineland, 34 (crossing of N. J. Southern 
R. R.) ; S. Vineland, 37 ; Millville, 40 ; Manumuskin, 46 ; Belleplain, 53 ; Wood- 
bine, 56 ; Mt. Pleasant, 59 ; Seaville, 62 ; Swain's, 66 ; Cape May Court House, 
69 ; Rio Grande, 75 ; Bennett's, 78 ; Cape May, 81. BrUlgeton and Salem Branches, 
— Phila. ; Glassboro', 18 ; Union, 20 ; Harding, 22 ; Monroe, 24 ; Elmer, 26 (di- 
vergence of the branch to Daretown, 81 ; Yorketown, 34 ; Alloway, 38 ; Middle- 
town, 39 ; Salem, 43) ; Palatine, 29 ; Husted, 31 ; Finley, 34 ; Bridgeton, 37. 

Crossing from the foot of Market St., Phila. (1. ferry-house), the travel- 
ler takes the cars at Camden and passes S. near the Delaware River to 
Gloucester (2 hotels), a small river-city devoted to manufacturing. It 
was founded in 1689, and was held by Lord Cornwallis with 5,000 British 
troops in 1777. Station, Westville, near the mouth of Timber Creek, 
where Capt. Mey (of the Dutch West India Company) founded Fort 
Nassau in 1621, The colonists were soon at feud Avith the Indians; and, 
being decoyed into an unfavorable position, they were all massacred and 
the fort w^as destroyed. Woodbury (Wills's Hotel) is a village 2 - 3 M. S. 
of Red Bank (see page 287), wath a branch R. R. running S. W. 10 M. 
by Berkley and Clarksboro' to Swedesboro' (2 iuns), a hamlet on Raccoon 



296 Route 43. VINELAND. 

Creek. It was settled by the Swedes before 16 10, and the Swedish chttrch 
•was kept up until 1786, Stations (main line), Wenonah, near Mantua 
village, with a large summer hotel ; Barnesbaro'; and Glassbord' (2 inns), 
a village of 2,500 inhabitants, with 4 churches. This place was settled 
at an early date by Germans, who commenced the manufacture of glass. 
Whitney's glass-works are located here, and are the largest in the Repub- 
lic; while the aggregate annual product of this industry is $2,500,000. 
Glassboro' is on the great S. Jersey vein of pure white sand, even and 
fine, which melts easily and is well adapted for glass-making. 

A branch R. R. runs S. from Glassboro' to Bridgeton (see page 292) in 19 Mi, 
passing 7 stations. From Ehncr station (Elmer Houae), on this branch, another 
R. R. diverges to the W., and in 43 M. from Camden it readies Salem (Garwood's 
Hotel; Mansion; Nelson), tlie cai>ital of Salem County. It has 4,555 inhabitants, 
and is the centre of a populous farming conntiT. There are daily steamers to 
Philadelphia, — by Salenj Creek and the Delaware River. Salem was settled by 
60 immigrants from New Haven (Conn.) in 1641 ; but the colony was l)r()ken up 
and replaced by a Swedish fort, which in turn yielded to the Dutch and the Eng- 
lish. In 1673 Lord Berkeley's half of New Jersey (known as West Jersey) was 
bought by 2 Friends for £1,000. The chief proprietor soon visited his new 
domain, and "landed at a pleasant, rich spot, situate near Delaware, by him 
called Salem ; jirobably from the peaceable aspect it then bore." The new colony 
grew rapidly, and in 1682 was made a port of entry. The first settlere were 
Friends, and that sect still has 2 churches here. In 1778 Salem was plundered 
by 1,200 Scottish troops under Col. Mawhood. This force advanced to Alloway 
and defeated the N. J. militia by ambuscade, but was afterward seriously rc- 
I)ulsed in several attempts to cross the Alloway. The Americans there defeated 
Simcoe's Queen's Rangers, who had tried to storm the fortilled bridge-head. 
Then Mawhood returned to Philadelphia, bearing a large quantity of forage and 
many cattle. 

Beyond Clayton and Franklinville the main line passes the vineyards 
of lona and Malaga ; and thence by Newfield and N. Vineland reaches 
Vineland ( Vineland House). At this point, a few years ago, a specula- 
tive gentleman bought a tract of pine-plains 10 M . square, through which 
broad avenues were laid out and public reservations were made. By lib- 
eral advertising and low rates for the land, large sales were effected, and 
the forests soon gave way before the sturdy arms of men of New England. 
A bright new town grew up like magic, with pretty villas and cottages 
located along (and at prescribed distances from) broad straight avenues; 
and fine churches and academies were erected. Several thousand persons 
settled in this vicinity ; but the dreams of a southern Arcadia which had 
lured so many from the rocky hills of New England were soon dissipated. 
At present Vineland is one of the chief towns of S. New Jersey, and is 
inhabited by a semi-literary community of Puritanic memories, whose 
local laws are peculiar and beneficial, and far in advance of the age. The 
principal business of the town is raising small fruits for the N. Y. and 
Pliila. markets ; and, by diligent application, considerable sums have been 
made in this branch of industry. 

6 M. from Vineland the train reaches Millville (Tice House ; City 
Hotel), a place of over 6,000 inhabitants, situated on the Maurice River, 



CAPE MAY. Route 43. 297 

and containing several glass -factories. The line now runs S. E. through a 
sandy and sparsely populated country by the stations of Mauumuskin 
and Belle Plain. Entering the low and marshy domain of Cape May 
County, beyond Woodbine and Mt. Pleasant, the Great Cedar Swamp is 
crossed, and the train stops at Seaville station, whence the Sea-Shore 
road runs N. E. 10 - 12 M. between the Swamp and the salt estuaries 
behind Ludlam's and Peck's Beaches. It passes through Seaville and 
terminates at Beesley's Point, a quiet summer resort on Great Egg Har- 
bor. The R. R. runs S. W. down the Cape with bi-oad sounds and marshy 
islands and moors 1-2 M. to the 1. Stations, Swain's, Cape May Court 
House, Rio Grande, and Bennett's, beyond which the train passes Cold 
Spring and stops at 

Cape May. 

Hotels. — * Stockton House, 1,200 guests, §4.50 a day, S 28 a week; ♦Con- 
gress Hall, 1,000 guests, S 4.50; Oceau Hou-^e, 300 guests, S3 50 : Atlantic, $3.50, 
^21ii week; Columbia, .'? 4 00 ; Centre, 350 guests, $350; National, Delaware, 
and .\rctic, each ijiSaday; Clialfont, West End, United States, Merchants, and 
Treniont. The Sea-15reezo House is used by excursion-parties. There are also 
several boarding-houses, whii-h charge $ 12 - 20 a week. 

liailroads, — to Philadelphia in 2 hrs. (81 M.,$ 2.50) ; to Atlantic City by way 
of Vineland. Steamers run daily to Philadelphia (fare, $ 2). 

Cape May is the most southern point of New Jersey, and is one of 
the Capes of the Delaware (the other being Cape Henlopen, across the 
Bay). It is insulated by a small tidal stream, and fronts on the Atlantic. 
The beach extends from the point of the Cape to Cold Spring Inlet, a dis- 
tance of 5 M., and is composed of firm gray sand, affording a fine drive- 
way at half or low tide. The bathing facilities are unsurpassed, and the 
surf is massive, and is (it is claimed) less chilling than that of the New 
England coast. Most of the hotels front directly on the sea, and aftbrd 
fine marine views ; and a long promenade-walk is built down the water- 
front. The visitors are mostly from Philadelphia, Baltimore, and the 
Western States ; while the Southerners wlio were wont to come here be- 
fore the Secession War are beginning to return to their old summer 
home. The aristocratic nulitary organizations of the adjacent States 
make their encampments in tliis vicinity, and the elite of Phila. society is 
found at the larger hotels (notably at the Stockton House). The steam- 
boat-landing is on Delaware Bay, about 2 M. from the hotels ; and down 
the beach to the W. (near Lilly Pond) is the lighthouse, which is 90 ft. 
high, and sustains a powerful revolving light. 2-3 M. inland is Cold 
Spring, a favorite place for excursions, and so named on account of a 
large spring of sweet water which rises through a salt marsh. Sea Grove 
is a Presbyterian summer-village near Cape May, with cottages, avenues, 
and a large new hotel. 

Cape May was named in honor of himself by Capt. Cornelius Jaeobse May, Avho 
visited this coast in a ship of the Dutch West" India Company. The same mariner 



298 Route U. LAMBERTVILLE. 

affixed his name to other points, naming New York " Port Mey " ; Cape Henlopen, 
"Cape Cornelius"; and the Delaware, "New Port Mey"; but the latter titles 
failed to satisfy. In lti2y the Cape was bought from 9' Indian Sachems for tlie 
Dutch W. I. Company, and it was soon settled by whalemen from Long Island. 
During the Revolution great quantities of clams, dried and sti'ung, were sent from 
this district to the Continental army. As early as 1812 the Cape was " a favorite 
watering-place," and in 1844 it had 3 large hotels and 3,000 annual visitors. In 
the War of 1812 the British iine-o. -battle ship I'oictiers appeared olT the village, 
and threatened to bombard it unless allowed to get a supply of fresh water. The 
request was granted, and the great war-ship sailed away in peace. 

44. Philadelphia to the Delaware Water Gap, Scrantont 
and Oswego. 

By the Penn. R. R. (New York and Belvidere Divisions) and the Delaware, 
Lackawanna & Western R. R. The country which is travei-sed by this route is 
attractive and diversitied, ajid the scenery oh the Belvidere Division is highly 
picturesque. 

Stations. — Philadelphia (Kensington) ; Trenton, 30 M. ; Asylum, 34 ; Greens- 
burg, 30; Somerset Junction, 3U (branch to Pennington) ; Washington's Crossing, 
39 ; Titusville, 41 ; Lambertville, 40 (branch to Flemington) ; Stockton, 50 ; Pralls- 
ville, 51 ; Bull Island, 53 ; Point Pleasant, 50 ; Freuchtown, 62 ; Milford, 65 ; 
Holland, 68 ; Durham, 71 ; Riegelsville, 72 ; Pohatcong, 74 ; Carpenter\ille, 75 ; 
Lehigh Junction, 80J ; Phillipsburg, 81 ; Martin's Creek, 88 ; Roxburg, 91 ; Bel- 
videre, 95; Manunka Chunk, 98. D., L. £ IV. R. ii. — Delaware Water Gap, 
108 ; Scranton, 133 ; Bijighamton, 194 ; Utica. 289 ; Syracuse, 274 ; Oswego, 309. 

Philadelphia to Trenton, see pages 260, 261. 

A short distance beyond Trenton the N. J. Lunatic Asylum is passed, 

and the line follows the course of the Delaware River, on whose farther 

bank is the Penn. Canal, bordering the rich and rural Bucks County. 

Beyond Greensburg is Somerset Junclion, whence a l)ranch R. R. runs N. 

E. to Pennington, and thence across Pleasant Valley (with Pennington Mt. 

on the 1.) to Hopewell. This line is continued to E. Millstone (see page 

258). The main line passes N, W. along the 1. bank of the Delaware, bj'' 

the stations of Washington'' s Crossing (where the American army crossed 

the DelaAvare before the victory at Trenton), Titusville, and Moore's. 

Beyond the low ridges of Goat Hill (r. ) it reaches Lambertville {Bebnont 

House), a pleasant village with factories on the feeder of the Delaware & 

Raritan Canal, A bridge crosses the river to Neiv Hope, Penn. At this 

point (then called CoryeVs Ferry) a division of the Continental army 

crossed during the disastrous retreat through the Jerseys, Lord Corn- 

wallis attempted to seize this strategic point, but was repulsed by the 

Scottish -American Lord Stirling, 

A branch R. R. runs 12 M. N. E. from Lambertville up the Alexsocken Creek 
to Flemington, passing tlie ancient valley-village of Kingoes, which was settled by 
John Ringo in 1720. Flemington {County Hotel; Union) is the capital of 
Hunterdon County, and is pleasantly situated on an undulating plain. The M. 
Branch R. R. runs from Flemington E. to Somerville, on the N. J . Central R. R. 

Beyond Lambertville the main line passes on to Stockton, Bull's Island, 
Point Pleasant (village in Penn.), and Tumble, after which numerous 
islands are seen in the river, and beyond Erwinna (r. bank) the train 



BELVIDERE. Ro^ite U. 299 

reaches Frenchtovm, opposite the Penn. hamlet of Uhlerstown. Milford 

is connected by a bridge with Upper Black Eddy, and is overlooked by a 

picturesqiie line of heights, while the red sandstone bluffs of Nockamixon 

are seen across the river. The line next curves around a broad bend of the 

river, with the Musconetcong Mt. on the r. Beyond this ridge is Riegels- 

ville, about 3 M. S. W. of which, near the confluence of Durham Creek 

and the Delaware River, is a remarkable cavern, containing several halls 

and sloping down to the level of the river, where a deep pool is found. 

The train now traverses a romantic district of hills, and on the 1. are the 

highlands, among which is the tall hill of Hexenkopf, or Witches' Head, 

where the old German colonists alleged that the weird women were wont 

to meet in " linked dances " on stormy nights. 

The Kettentanz of the Hartz Mts. was reproduced here, and accompanied with 
ghostly chanting upon the huge and far-viewing suinniit-rock. These orgies de- 
clined after the punishment of a witch for practising " certain most wicked acts 
(called enchantments and charms), maliciously and diaV)olically, upon and against 

a certain white horse of the value of 4£ by means of which the said 

horse of the said Justice W., on the day aforesaid, at the township of Willianis 
aforesaid, worstended and wasted away, against the peace of our said common- 
wealth, and against the laws in this case made and provided." 

The train crosses the Pohatcong Creek, and runs N. W. to the Lehigh 
Junction, with beautiful views of Easton and Phillipsburg. The great 
bridges, the mouth of the Lehigh, and the buildings of Lafayette College 
are seen on the 1. 

Beyond Phillipsburg the Marble Mt. is followed on the r., with pleasant 
river scenery on the 1. Stations, Harmmiy, Martin's Creek, and Belvidere 
{American House), the capital of Warren County, a pleasant village sit- 
tiated at the confluence of the Request and Delaware Rivers. The former 
stream affords a good water-power, falling 50 ft, in 1 M. Near the centre 
of the village is a public square on which front 4 churches and the Court 
House. N. of the Request is the Brainerd Seminary, with other public 
buildings. The train now rounds the Manunka Chunk Mt., and meets 
the Del., Lack. & Western R. R. coming in from New York on a high 
grade. Passengers change cars here (the only change between Phila. and 
Oswego), ascending to the platform of the D., L. & W. R. R. 

Manunka Chunk to Oswego, see pages 242 - 249. 



300 Route 45. FORT WASHINGTON. 



45. Philadelphia to Central New York, The Valley of 
Wyoming. 

By the N. Penn. and Lehigh Valley K. Rs. To Wilkes-Barre, in 6 hrs. ; to El- 
mira, 10 hrs. ; to Auburn, 13 hrs. ; to Buft'alo, 16.i hrs. ; to Niagara Falls, 16J lirs. 
Palace-cars run through from Phila. to Niagara Falls. Phila. to Bethlehem, 2 
hrs. ; to Mauch Chunk, 3^ hrs. ; to Wilkes-Barre, 6 hrs. ; to Elniira, 10 hrs. ; to 
Rochester, 14^ hrs. ; to Buffalo, 15i hrs. ; to Niagara Falls, 16^ hrs. This route 
passes through a great variety of pleasant scenery, from the rich agricultural 
lands of Bucks County and the Valley of Wyoming to the cold and frowning wil- 
derness of the remote mountain counties. The great iron-works of Lehigh County 
and the collieries of Carl)on and Luzerne are also passed, and attbrd much interest, 
to the tourist. Information with regard to excursion routes, fares, and i)alace- 
cars may be obtained at 732 Chestnut St , and 105 S. Fifth St., Phila. ; also at the 
CentralR. R. and the Morris & Essex R. R. stations in New York. 

Stations. — Philadelphia ; Fisher's Lane, 4 M. ; Green Lane, 5 ; York Road, 
7; Jenidntown, 9 ; Abiugton, 10, Edge Hill, 11 ; Fort Washington, 14; Ambler, 
15 ; Penllyn, 17 ; Gwvnedd, IS ; N. Wales, :iO ; Lansdale. 2*2 (branch to Colniar, 
25 ; Chalfont, 27 ; Doylestown, 33) ; Hatlield, 25 ; Bonders, 27 : Sellersville, 31 ; 
Perkasie, 33; Quakertown, 38 ; Coopersbui-g, 44 ; Center Valley, 45 ; Bingen, 48 ; 
liellertown, 51; Bethlehem, 55 (Easton, 67). LchUjh Valley H.R. — E. Penn. 
Junction, GO ; AUentown, 60 ; Catasauqua, C3 ; Hokendaucpia, 64 ; Coplay. 65 ; 
Laurj''s, 70 ; Slatington, 77 ; Lehigh Gap, 79 ; Lehighton, 86 ; Mauch Chunl;,89; 
Glen Onoko, 92 ; Penn Haven Junction, 96; Hickory Run. 109 ; White Haven, 
114; Fair View, 128; Newi>ort, 135; Wilkes-Barre, 144 ; Pittston, 153; L. & B. 
Junction, 154 ; Falls, 165 ; McKunes, 168 ; Tunkhannoek, 176 ; Mehoopany, 188 ; 
Meshoppen, 191 ; Black Walnut, 196 ; Laceyville, 199 ; Wyalusing, 209 ; French- 
town, 215 ; Rummerfield, 219 ; Standing Stone, 222 ; Wysauking, 226 ; Towanda, 
230 ; Ulster, 237 ; Milan, 241 ; Athens, 245 ; Sayre, 247 ; Waverly Junction, 249 ; 
Elmira, 267 ; Ithaca, 281 ; Auburn, 344 ; Buffalo, 416 ; Niagara Falls, 438. 

The train on the N. Penn. R. R. leaves the tenninal station on Berks 
St., and runs N. through the borders of tlie city, passing several large 
factories and i-olling-niills. Leaving tlie Ei)iscopal Hospital on the r., the 
line crosses the tracks of the Reading R. R. (coal-branch) and the Penn. 
R. R. (connecting line), and passes out into the pleasant suburban region 
near the Old York Road. At about 6 M. from the Berks St. station, the 
line leaves Phila., and enters Montgomery County, passing the pretty 
Chelten Hills. The celebrated park and mansion established by Jay 
Cooke are near the Old York Road station; and Gen. Meade lived near 
Jenkintown. AhingUm is considerably to the E. of its station (whence a 
branch R. R. runs N. E. to Ilathoro, near Waraiinster) ; and Edge Hill is 
near large smelting- works. From Oreland the Plymouth R. R. runs S. 
W. to Conshohocken, on the Schuylkill River. Sandy Run is known for 
its fine white lime; and Fort Wctshington is near the remains of the field- 
works which were erected to check the advance of the British army after 
the disastrous Battle of Germantown. The quaint old gambrel-roofed 
stone house wliich was used for Washington's head-quarters is still stand- 
ing, 1 M. from the station. From this point the army retreated to its 
dreary winter camps at Valley Forge. Beyond the pkasant rural hamlets 
of Ambler and Penllyn, the train reaches Gv)ynedd, a Welsh village 1 M. 
E. of the station. Running through the costly Gwynedd Tunnel (500 ft. 



BETHLEHEM. Rcmte 45. 301 

long), the next station is N. Wales, whence daily stages run to Norris- 
tovvn and HaAvleyville. From Lansdale a branch R. K runs N. E. 11 M. 
by Colmar and Chalfont to Doylestown. situated on a high plateau. It 
is the capital of Bucks County, and has 1,601 inhabitants, most of whom 
are descendants of the Scotch-Irish settlers. The line now passes Hatfield 
and enters the fertile farm-lands of Bucks County, populated almost en- 
tirely by the descendants of the old Germanic migrations, who still pre- 
serve the language and customs of their ancestors. There are thousands 
of small farms, partially devoted to dairy-culture; and women maybe 
seen working in the fields, just as in Austria or Bavaria. At Sellersville 
the Landis Ridge (the water-shed between the Delaware and Schuylkill) is 
crossed, affording pleasant views down the Limestone Valley. Beyond 
Perkasie (Perkasie Hotel), famed for cottage-cheeses, the train enters a 
tunnel 2,160 ft. long. Quakertown is a long village near the head of the 
Perkiomen Valley, with daily stages rmining S. W. across Miiford to 
Greenville. The train now descends into the Saucon Valley, with South 
Mt. on the r. ; passes Coopersburg and Bingen (seat of the N. Penn. Iron 
Co.'s furnaces), and reaches Heller town, a compact little village, which is 
near prolific iron and zinc mines. Still descending the broad valley, with 
South Mt. on the r., the train passes great furnaces and iron-works and 
the Lehigh University is seen on the r. 

Bethlehem (* Sim Hotel, $ 3 a day; Eagle Hotel) is pleasantly situated 
on the highlands N. of the Lehigh River, and contains (together with S. 
Bethlehem) over J0,000 inhabitants. It is celebrated as being the chief 
seat of the Moravians in America ; and from its historic attractions and 
the pleasant scenery in the vicinity, it has become a summer resort. The 
Moravian Church is a singular stone building, which accommodates over 
2,000 persons. The ritual and sermons are in English. Above the church 
is a trilateral range of ancient stone buildings, with massive buttressed 
walls, quaint belfries, and double rows of dormer-windows, — recalling 
Quebec or Upper Austria. This house was built by Bishop Nitschmann 
in 1741, and contains the German Chapel and the home of the Single Sis- 
ters. All the unmarried women then dwelt in this house, and some re- 
main there (by preference) even now. 

Great care was taken in the earlier days lest the young people should form 
natural affinities for each other. The sexes were kept ai)art even at church, and 
after death were buried in different places. During the hours of relaxation from 
work, they took long walks in coluuni of twos ; but if the sisterhood went E. the 
brothers must go W., if they went N. the brothers nmst go S., in order to avoid 
the risk of meeting. No brother was allowed to walk along the pavement oppo- 
site the Sisters' House, and vice versa. If a brother and sister met on the street 
they must both look down, and never on any pretence could gaze at each other. 
Marriages were considered desirable, but simply as a means of perpetuating the 
church, and therefore were arranged by the clergy. If each of several Ladies 
seemed equally adapted to a certain single brother, the elected one was ascertained 
by drawing lots ; and the church assumed the care and education of children 
when they reached the age of,. 6 years. Franklin thus reports his conversation 



302 Ro7de 45. BETHLEHEM. 

with a Moravian leader : " I objected, ' If the matelies are not made by the 
mutual choice of the parties, some of them may chance to be unhappy.' 'So 
they may if you let the parties choose for themselves,' said the Moravian. Whitih 
indeed I could not deny." 

In 1778 the Single Sisters made and presented to Count Pulaski a crimson silk 
banner, on one side of which were the letters " U. S.," enciix-led by the motto, 
unitas virtus fortior ; and on the other the All-Seeing Eye, and the motto, non 
alius rer/it, embroidered in yellow silk and fringed with bullion. This banner was 
borne by Pulaski's regiment, imtil he fell in the assault on Savannah (1779). It 
is now in the Maryland Historical Society's rooms, at Baltimore. 

" When the dying flame of day " ' Take thy banner. May it wave 

Through the chancel shot its ray. Proudly o er the ppod and brave, 

Far the Blinimerinfr tapers shed When the battle's distant wail 

Faint light on the cowled head. Breaks the Sabbath of our vale ; 

And the censer burnine swung. When the clarion s music thrills 

When before the altar hung To the heart of these lone hills ; 

That proud banner, which, with prayer. When the spear in conflict shakes. 

Had been consecrated there ; And the strong lauce, quivering, breaks.*" 

And the nun's sweet hymn was heard the 

while. 
Sung low in the dim mysterious aisle, — 

Hymn of the Moravian Nuns at the Consecration of Pulaski'. i Banner. 

(Hejjuy W. Lonofkllow.) 

The Widows' House is the quaint little building opposite the Single 
Sisters' House. Back of the latter is the Boys' School, and farther out 
on Church St. (on which are many ancient houses) is the Moravian Theo- 
logical Seminary. On Church and Market Sts. are the old cemeteries, 
which are scrupulously guarded. A small horizontal slab of marble is 
laid on the top of each grave, and all classes and conditions of men are 
buried side by side. The pile of buildings S. of the church is the Mora- 
vian Seminary for Young Ladies, the oldest in the Rei^ublic (founded in 
17-49). It has 42 teachers and tutoresses, 305 students, and 6,000 alumnaj, 
with fine libraries and cabinets. Many of the students belong to churches 
other than the Moravian, and some come from foreign lands. 

Below the cheerful reading-rooms of the Y. M. C. A. (86 Main St.) is a 
room containing a museum of curiosities (entrance, 25c.). Among these 
are a quaint fire-engine made in London in 1698, and brought over by the 
Moravians; the war-costumes of Osceola and Red Jacket; ancient weapons 
of warfare, Christian and heathen ; a spinnet and a spinning-wheel ; old 
books and newspapers; collections of autographs, medals, and minerals 
(including zinc ores from Friedensville) ; trophies from the mission- 
stations of the Brethren ; and relics of the old Pennsylvanian settlements. 
The finest thing in the hall is a large historical painting by Schuessele, 
representing Zeisberger preaching to the Indians. 

The Sun Inn was opened in 1760, and was cari-ied on by the Moravians (by 
salaried landlords) until 1851. The rates for transient visitors were 2^ shillings a 
day. It was fortified in 17G3, and in the same year a weekly stage-line to Phila- 
delphia was started. Among the guests at the inn were Ge)ierals Gates, Sullivan, 
Fermoy, Schuyler, Mifflin, Knox, Lafayette, Lee, Steuben, Pulaski, Pomeroy, 
Lewis, and the Ambassadors of France and Spain. Generals Riedesel and Philips 
and their staffs (of Burgoyne's captive army) were kept here. At a later day 
General and Lady Washington visited the place ; and the Marquis de Chastellux, 
in 1782, speaks enthusiastically of the Inn. 



NAZARETH. Route 45. 303 

The Sun Hotel was enlarged to its present size in 1851, but the massive 
walls and deep-set windows still remain ; and the architect's plans (dra\vn 
in Saxony) are framed in the reading-room. Above the hotel a street to 
the 1. leads to the lofty bridge over the Manocasy Creek, whence the 
valley is overloolced and the Lehigh University is seen. The drives np 
the Manocasy Valley ai-e pleasant, and Calypso Island, in the Lehigh 
River, is much visited. On South Mt. is a large hydropathic institute 
(Lehigh Mt. Springs ; $ 12 - 15 a week) ; and the Episcopal ladies' school 
of Bishopthorjye is open in summer for family boarding. 

The * Lehigh University was founded by the Hon. Asa Packer in 
1865, and is under the auspices of the Protestant Episcopal Church. In 
the first 2 years mathematics, the languages, elementary sciences, etc., are 
taught ; and in the last 2 years the student passes tlirough one of the 
5 technical schools, — general literature, civil engineering, mechanical en- 
gineering, mining and metallurgy, or analyticl chemistry. Tuition in 
all branches is free, and the other yearly expenses are reckoned at $ 215. 
The vicinity of the great mining and engineering Avorks of the Lehigh 
Valley aflfords special adva.ntages to such a polytechnic institution. There 
are 12 professors and instructors, and 121 students. * Packer Hall is the 
chief building, and is 213 ft. long, with a fine facade of stone, and a lofty 
belfry-tower. In its central portion are the chapel, library, and cabinets. 
Descending the hill e/i echelon from this hall are the houses of the pro- 
fessors ; and Christinas Hall is a large brick dormitory-building on the 
E. These buildings are in a park of ancient trees on a far-viewing spur 
of the Lehigh Mts. Tlie immense rolling-mills of the Bethlehem Iron Co. 
are near the village, and produce many thousand tons of Bessemer-steel 
rails. Friedensville is 4 M. distant, and has the most powerful stationary 
engine in the world. There are rich zinc-mines in the fissures of the 
Silurian limestone at this place, producing yearly 3,000 tons of oxide of 
zinc, 3,600 tons of metallic zinc, and 3,000 casks of sheet-zinc. 

Nazareth is 10 M. from Bethlehem, and is most readily reached from 
Bath, on the Lehigh k Lackawanna R. R., which runs N. 15 M. to the 
mines near Chapman's. It is a quaint old village pleasantly situated be- 
tween the Blue and the South Mts., and is 8 - 10 M. S. of the Wind Gap, 
a bold pass in the Blue Mts., 15 M. S. W. of the Delaware Water Gap. 
Nazareth was settled in 1740 by George Whitefield and a colony of 
Moravians. The latter were soon driven out by Whitefield, as the issiie 
of certain theological difi'erences ; but they afterwards bought the laud 
and made it an appanage of the Comitess of Zinzendorf, under the name 
of the Barony of Nazareth. Here (in 1785) was established the Moravian 
Boarding -School for Boys, which now has 13 teachers and 145 students. 
Morning and evening prayers and frequent military drills (in uniform) are 
carefully observed. The main building is Nazareth Hall, a quaint old 



304 Roiite 45. ALLENTOWN. 

structure with dormer-windows, and a hipped-roof surmounted by a tall 
belfry. 

Moravia was Christianized in the year 863, and in 1419 the Bohemo-Moravian 
Church revolted against the Papacy, and took up arms under John Ziska and the 
League of the Hussite Barons. For 12 years Catholic armies were vainly sent 
against Moravia, and in 1431 the fifth and last crusade was shattered at the 
great battle of Tauss. A formal secession from the Catholic Church was 
effected ; they received bishops from the Waldenses, and suffered several 
bloody persecutions. When Luther's Reformation began (1517), the Moravians 
had 400 churches and 200,000 communicants. They did not second the German 
and Swiss reformers, and sTiffered persecutions from both Catholics and 
Lutherans. In 1G27 they were totally dispersed, 30,000 families being driven 
from the kingdom by King Ferdinand II. A few of the exiles (" the hidden" 
seed ") gathered at Lissa, in Poland, and after fresh hardships and many mar- 
tyrdoms, the fragments of the church were gathered at Herrnhut, on the estate 
of the Saxon Count Zinzendorf (1722). This noble was created a bishop, and 
united tlie opposing sects into "the renewed church," but was oppressed by the 
Saxons, and began to send his people to America in 1735. In 1741 Bishop Nitsch- 
maun founded ^eiAZec/iem. (a Hebrew-Indian name, meaning "House on the Le- 
high "), and Count Zinzendorf visited the place later in the year, and named it 
Ikthlehem. A cluster of exclusively Moravian villages arose in the vicinity, of 
which the chief secular peculiarity was a communism of labor. This polity lasted 
until 1S43, when Lutherans were admitted to the villages, and now the old Mora- 
vian towns are open to all comers. Many of the distinctive traits of the sect have 
passed away, and it now includes (in America) G6 churches, with 6,400 members, 
governed by 5 bishops with very limited ex officio powers. The chief strength 
of the church is in Penn., Wisconsin, and N. Carolina. 

The Diaspora (to the cold state-churches of Europe) and the Pilgrims (to the 
heathen Indians) are the titles of the two great missionary enterprises of the Con- 
tinental and Moravian Provinces (both begun about 1750, and still active). The 
maintenance of remote and perilous missicms is now the chief work of the church. 
There are 6 stations in Greenland, 5 in I^abrador, 3 among the Indians, 46 in the 
W. Indies, 12 in S. America, 12 in S. Africa, 3 in Australia, and 2 in Thibet, em- 
ploying 318 missionaries, and having under care 70,311 converts (Moravian Manual, 
1869). The church is divideil into the English, Continental, and American Prov- 
inces, and holds to the evangelical doctrines as set forth in the Augsburg Con- 
fession. 

In 1755 the Indian tribes declared war on the colonies, and the Moravian mis- 
sionaries to the W. were cruelly massacred. Bishop Spangenberg fortified Beth- 
lehem, and it became a city of refuge on the outer frontier. In 1775 the Virginian 
troops, marching to the siege of Boston, halted here, and afterward large bodies 
of soldiers and prisoners of war were moved by this route. In 1776 the geiiei-al 
hospital of the Continental Army was located in the village ; and out of 2,000 
patients more than 400 died. After the defeat at the Brand>nvine, the baggage of 
the army was parked here in 900 wagons, and many members of Congress tied 
hither after the fall of Philadelphia. Meantime, from the foundation of the place 
until the expulsion of the Indians, many delegations of the Delawares, Six Na- 
tions, Wyomings, and otlier tribes visited the United Brethren at Bethlehem, and 
were kindly treated. With the recent development of the iron-manufacture, a 
large alien population has come in, and now but ^ of the people are Moravians. 
In former times this people feared the Irish more than the Indians, and were re- 
viled by them as " d— d Hernhutters." 

After leaving S. Bethlehem the train pa.sses along the Lehigh River and 
near South Mt., and beyond tlie divergence of the Allentown Line (Route 
36) at the E. Penn. R. R. it stops at 

Allentown {American House, $2.50 a day), the capital of Lehigh 
County, favorably situated on high ground S. of the Lehigh and at its 
conflueuce with the Little Lehigh and Jordan Creek. It was foimded by 



ALLENTOWN. Route 4,5. 305 

James Allen in 1762, and "became a city in 1867. There are 17,061 in- 
habitants, 3 banks, 2 daily pajiers, and 21 churches. The population is 
to a large extent " Penn, Dutch " (descendants of Germans of the old im- 
migrations) ; and the domestic architecture is monotonous, comfortable, 
and cleanly. The streets are broad, straight, rectangular, and well shaded, 
and are traversed by horse-cars. Hamilton St. is the main thoroughfare, 
and is 1^ M. long. The stone viaduct over the Jordan valley (1,800 ft, 
long, 50 ft. high ; 19 arches) and tlie iron bridge over the Lehigh are 
worthy of notice. The County Prison is a fine building of Potsdam sand- 
stone, in castellated architecture, overlooking the valley. It cost $ 250,000. 
The Court House is on the main street ; and the school buildings are of 
renowned excellence (56 teachers and 3,150 students). The Academy of 
Natural Science has several cabinets of curiosities. Muhlenberg College 
is situated on a campus of 5 acres, in the S. E. part of the city. It is a 
prosperous institution under the patronage of the Lutheran Church, and 
has 9 professors and 135 students. The Allentown Female College is on 
high gi'ound in the N. E., and has 83 students. 

Mammotli Eock is a peak of the Lehigh Mt, 3 M. from Allentown and 
1,200 ft. above the plain, whence is gained a comprehensive view of the 
Lehigh and Saucon Valleys. The remarkable fountains in this vicinity 
are often visited, and near the principal one is the summer resort known 
as the Fountain House. 2 M. N. is an extensive cavern. 

This district was first occupied by the Aliens, whose mansion of Trout Hall 
stood near the site of Muhlenberg College. It was inherited by Wm. Allen, Chief 
Justice of Penn., and was laid out in 1762 by James Allen. The first settlers 
were Germans ; but the lofty situation of tlie place rendered it difficnilt to get a 
water-supply and lience retarded colonization. In 1777 the bells of Christ Church 
in Philadelphia were brought here to save them from the British ; and in the 
same year a large army-hospital was established in the vicinity. The rise of the 
iron manufacture and the construction of railroads and canals converging on this 
point, have given the city great importance within 20 years. Coal, lime.stone, 
and iron ore are found in vast quantities in the vicinity ; and the valley for 10 M. 
from Allentown is lighted up at night by the lurid glow of many furnaces. The 
Allentoiun Rolling-Mill has ^2,000,000 capital, covers 4 acres, employs 900 men, 
and turns out yearly 18,000 tons i)ig-iron, 30,000 tons rails, and 20,000 tons mer- 
chant iron. The Allentown Iron- IVorks has $800,000 capital, 5 furnaces, and 27 
mines, employs 900 men (including miners), consumes yearly 100,000 tons ore, 
90,000 tons coal, and 67,000 tons hmestone ; and produces yearly 45,000 tons No. 
1 pig-iron. The Lehigh and the Glen Iron Companies also have extensive works ; 
besides which there are manufactories of boilers, carriages, shoes, woollen goods, 
and leather ; and 1,200 hands are engaged in tobacco-works. 

After leaving Allentown the train passes the great furnaces and stops at 
Catasauqua. The village is seen on the opposite bank of the river, and 
contains 6,000 inhabitants and 9 churches. In 1839 there were but 2 
houses here ; but the rapid development of the iron trade has caused the 
borough to rise. The Crane Iron Co. has 6 furnaces, employs at the 
works 1,000 men, and consumed, in 1872, 138,392 tons iron ore, 108,274 
tons coal, and 82,400 tons limestone, producing 54,037 tons iron. Penn. 
hematite and N. J. magnetic ores are used. The Catasainpia M'f'g Co. 



306 Route 45. LEHIGH WATER GAP. 

employs 500 men in making bar-iron and axles ; the Car "Works make 
1,500-1,800 coal and freight cars yearly, employing 130 men ; shovels, 
saws, steam-engines, etc., are made here, and there are large importations 
of iron ore from liake Champlain and the excellent tough iron of Salis- 
bury, Conn, (for the Lehigh Car-Wheel Co., -which makes 25,000 wheels 
yearly). The ancient stone mansion of George Bntler (signer of the Dec- 
laration of Independence) is above the village, and was a frontier fortress 
200 years ago. In Fairview Cemetery, on the commanding hills W. of 
the Lehigh, is a handsome Soldiers' Monument, of white marble. 

The Catasauqria £ FogelsviUe R. R. runs from opposite Catasauqua 20 M. S. W. to 
Alburtis, on the E. Penn. R. R., and is chiefly used for the transi^ortation of iron 
ore from the great mines of Lehigh County. 4 M. below Catasauqua it crosses the 
ravine of Jordan Creek on a handsome iron bridge 1,165 ft. long, in 11 arches. 

At Hokendaitqua (an Indian name meaning " searching for land," — ap- 
plied to the first settlers), 1 M. beyond Catasauqua, are seen the 4 great 
furnaces of the Thomas Iron Co., so named in honor of David Thomas of 
Wales, who introduced into the U. S. the art of making iron by anthracite 
coal (1840). The engines are of 4,400 horse-power, and $ 1,750,000 capital 
and 400 men are employed, making yearly 50,000 tons of pig-iron from 
125,000 tons ore, 100,000 tons coal, and 75,000 tons limestone. The next sta- 
tion is Coplay, the seat of the Lehigh Valley Iron Works ($ 600,000 capital ; 
110 men; producing 25,000 tons yearly) and the Coplay Hydraulic Cement 
quarries and kilns (60,000 barrels yearly). A bridge crosses the river to 
Laubach's, and a railroad runs W. to the ore-beds at Ironton. Station, 
Whitehall, near the ancient Egypt Church (1742) and opposite Siegfried. 
The slate region is now traversed, and quai-ries and piles of debris are 
seen near the track. Tlie railroad was carried through this rugged dis- 
trict with great difficulty, and at a cost of $ 100,000 a mile. Near Rock- 
dale the train passes through a cut 100 ft. deep, in a lofty cliflf of slate. 
Slatington has over 2,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches (of which 2 are 
American, 2 Welsh, and 1 German). It was founded in 1854, and is the 
exporting point of the slate region. The slate is of the finest quality of 
pure clay, and the U. S. Capitol is roofed with squares of it \ inch thick. 
The quarries have $500,000 capital, employing 600 men; and the pro- 
duction in 1872 was 67,000 squares of roofing slate, 11,000 squares of 
school slate, 3,000 cases of mantels, 20,000 ft. of flagging, and 32 tons of 
blackboards. A branch track runs to the Slatedale quarries, 3^ M. dis- 
tant. Walnutport is seen on the opposite shore, and large mounds of 
debris from the quarries are passed as the train moves into the shadow of 
the Kittatiuny Mts. 

The * Lehigh Water Gap is the deep gorge in which the Lehigh River 
flows through the Kittatinny Mts. Tlie tall hills arise on either side 
directly from the river, and are clad with ancient forests. The Lehigh 
Gap station is at the foot of the DeviVs Pulpit, a lofty pile of rocks pro- 



MAUCH CHUNK. Route 45. 307 

jecting from the W. ridge. There is a small summer hotel on the E. 
shore, and the broad deep river affords good boating. Tlie views from 
the ridges are fine, especially over the peaceful farm-lands of Lehigh 
County (S ), and through the sinuous pass, which is entirely filled by the 
railroads, canal, river, and highway. Deposits of ore are found here, 
from which 5-6,000 tons of mineral paint (in 11 colors) are made yearly. 
Station, Parryville (E. shore), the seat of the Carbon Iron Works, with 3 
furnaces, 150 men, and a yearly product of 7,000 tons. The remarkable 
rock formations known as the DevWs Garden are near the village. Sta- 
tion, Lehighton (American House), a large village situated on high ground. 
1 M. S. is "The Spring of the Healing Waters," whose medicinal virtues 
were extolled by the Moravians in 1748. The Mahoning Valley stretches 
away to Tamaqua, 14 M. S. W., betAveen the Mahoning and Mauch Chunk 
Mts. In the same vicinity is the great swamp which the Indians called 
Towamensing, and Count Zinzendorf named St. Anthony's Wilderness. 
Later fugitives from the Wyoming massacre called it the Shades of Death. 
Weissport (Fort Allen Hotel) is opposite Lehighton, and contains large 
iron-works. 

In 1746 the Moravians established a colony of Christian Mohegan Indians (from 
Connecticut) near the site of Lehighton, and named it Gnadenhutten (" Tents of 
Grace "). The missionaries and their converts tilled the soil, and made productive 
farms along the valley. Brainerd and Zeisberger found a comminiity of 500 per- 
s<ms here ; and considerable portions or the Bible were translated into the Mohe- 
gan language. Some years later most of the people moved across the river (to 
Weissport) and formed a new village, with the Mohegaiis on one side of the street 
and the Christian Delawares from Menialagemeka on the other. During the 
months of devastation and rapine which followed Braddock's defeat, Gnadenhut- 
ten was attacked by French Indians, and 11 Moravians were killed in the mission- 
house. (A memorial monument stands in the cemetery near the R. R. station.) 
The Christian Indians at Weissport were eager to cross and fall upon their pagan 
kinsmen, but the pastors restrained them. Colonial troops were hurried forward 
and garrisoned the new village, but tliey were soon attacked by surprise, lost 
many men, and made a rapid retreat down the valley, leaving the place to be 
totally destroyed by the invaders. In 1756 Benjamin Franklin came up with a suf- 
ficient force and built Fort Allen (on the site of Weissport) as a frontier defence. 

Station, Packerton, with the long lines of parallel tracks where the im- 
mense coal-trains are weighed and made up. The scales are 122^ ft. long, 
with a capacity of 103 tons, and weigh 7 cars at a time, while moving 
rapidly. The R. R. freight and coal-car shops are located here, and em- 
ploy 560 men. In the vicinity is the deer-park (75 acres) pertaining to 
the railroad ; also the trout-farm of Mr. Lentz. The train now crosses 
the Lehigh on a Whipple iron bridge 485 ft. long, sweeps around the base 
of Bear Mt., and stops at 

Mauch Chunk, 
{"'Mansion House, 400 guests, S3 a day, $14-21 a week ; *A7nerican 
Hotel), the capital of Carbon County, and situated on the r. bank of tlie 
Lehigh River. It is 89 M. from Philadelphia and 121 M. from New York 
(without change of cars). The village is picturesquely situated at the 



308 Route J^B, MAUCH CHUNK. 

bottom of a deep and narrow ravine upon which the steep hills crowd so 
closely as to confine the houses to one street and to tilt the yards and 
gardens to a sharp angle. It is often called the most picturesque town in 
America, and probably is excelled only by Quebec. Tlie adjacent mts. 
attain a height of 7 - 900 ft. above the street ; and the huts of the poorer 
people are reached by ladder-like stairways. This locality is called "the 
Switzerland of America," but the scenery is rather Tyrolese than Swiss. 
Many sketches were made here by Hertzog, the famous artist of the 
Dusseldorf Academy. The most j)rominent object is the tall St. Mark's 
Church (Episcopal), with large windows of stained glass and a sturdy 
tower. The church is built of a cream-colored stone, and stands on a 
narrow terrace above the houses. Its architectural harmony with the 
surrounding scenery is the tlieme of much praise. The village has 4 other 
churches, 2 banks, several iron-works, and a strong and fortress-like 
county prison. On the N. are the mansions of Hon. John Leisenring and 
Hon. Asa Packer (President of the Lehigh Valley R. R. and founder of 
the Lehigh University at S. Bethlehem). The suburb of E. Mauch 
Chunk is situated across the river and above the village. The heights 
which environ Mauch Chunk are Mauch Chunk Mt. and Mt. Pisgah, spurs 
of Sharp Mt. ; and Bear Mt. is across the river (700 ft. high). Mauch 
Chunk (pronounced Mauk Chunk) is an Indian name which means Bear 
Mt. Every foot of the narrow pass before and below the Mansion House 
is taken up by the 2 railroads, the street, road, river, and canal, — all 
running side by side; and through this artery of commerce passes an 
almost unbroken line of cars or boats laden with coal. 

In 1791 a lonely hunter, wliose hut was in the great uninhabited forest of the 
Lehigh, was returning home after a long and unsuccessful chase, Avhen he saw, ;it 
the foot of a fallen tree, some curious black stones, which he carried in to the 
nearest settlement. They were thence sent to Philadelphia, where the savants 
pronounced them to be stone coal, but uninflammable. In 1793 a mine was opened 
on Sharp Mt. by the Lehigh Coal Co., who had become possessed of 12,000 acres 
of laud here. It was soon abandoned on account of the popular prejudice against 
anthracite coal, and the difficulty of getting it to market. In 1S13 5 ark-loads 
were sent down the river, and 3 of the arks were wrecked ; the remaining coal 
bringing $21 a ton. In 1818 the river was cleared and 305 tons were sent to 
Philadelphia, which stocked the market for a year. It was floated down in 
wooden arks, which Were broken up for lumber at Philadelphia ; and tlieboatmcji 
returned to the mts. on foot, bearing the iron-work of the arks to build new ones 
with. This process laste<l for 13 years, and in 1841 13 M. of arks were built, and 
carried 41,000 tons to the city. Tlie coal was carted over the hills for 9 M. until 
1827, when the Summit HillR. R. was built, and operated by mule-power. The 
mules rode down with the coal, and then dragged tlie empty cars up to the Sum- 
mit. In 1844 stationary engines were substituted. The Lehigh slack-water navi- 
gation was opened in 1829, and the canal extended N. to Whitehaven until its 
destruction by the great freshet of 1862. In this flood many scores of lives were 
lost ; all the bridges, locks, and dams were swept away ; and the Mansion House 
had 28 inches of water on the second floor. The wrecked canal was replaced by a 
first-class railroad. The Lehigh Coal and Navigation Co. owns 6,500 acres of 
l:i;id about Mauch Chunk, estimated to contain 600,000,000 tons of coal. Its 
capital is sis 20.000,000, and the coal shipments to the E. in 1S73 amounted to nearly 
3.000,000 tons. 



SUMMIT HILL. Route 45. 309 

For many years the people refused to buy the coal, doubting its inflammability, 
and mechanics were often bribed to try it. The city of Philadelphia attempted 
its use at the water-works ; but the engineers asserted that it put out the tires, 
and the remainder of the consignment was broken up and scattered on the side- 
walks. The coal-bed on Mauch Chunk Mt. is the thickest known (53 ft.), and the 
coal itself is the hardest which can be found. 

The Mauch Chunk d' Summit Hill R. R. runs 8 passenger-trains daily 

(fare, 50c.; round trip, 90c.; hotel-coach to and from the station, ^ M., 

25c. each way). Ascending Susquehanna St. by the Court House, and 

passing up the hill between the Packer (1.) and Leiseuring (r. ) mansions, 

several coal-shutes are seen on the r., and the hamlet of E. Mauch Chunk 

is overlooked. The cars are pulled up from Upper Mauch Chunk by 

broad steel bands attached to stationary engines at the summit, and are 

provided with iron arms which would drop into the central ratchet-rail 

and hold the car if anything gave way. No accident has ever taken place 

on this road. The bands and cogs are attached to the " safety-car," which 

is behind the passenger-cars (accommodating 30 persons each). Before 

the decline of the coal-trafRc over this route the coal- cars carried 3 tons 

each, and each descending loaded car drew up an empty one. The first 

plane leads to the summit of Mt. Pisgah, 850 ft. above the river, by a 

track which ascends 664 ft. in a length of 2,322 ft. (6-8 minutes). A 

grand view is obtained from Mt. Pisgah, including many of the Blue 

Mts., the Lehigh Water Gap, Schooley's Mt. (56 M. distant), and the 

busy scenes on the river below, with the quaint street of Mauch Chunk. 

■^ M. from this summit is the far-viewing Pavilion. ITie train now starts 

on the gravity-road, and runs down for 6^ M. to a village at the foot of 

Mt. Jefferson, descending 302 ft. Here another plane is climbed by a 

safety-car over a track which ascends 462 ft. in a length of 2,070 ft., and 

the summit of Mt. Jefferson, the highest point on the road, is reached. 

The Bloomingdale Valley is seen throughout its whole extent from this 

peak. After 1 M. of transit (descending 45 ft.) the train stops at Summit 

Hill (3 hotels), the chief town of the district, with 2,000 inhabitants 

(miners and their families), and a gloomy and massive old stone tov.^er 

which was built for an armory. The clear mt. air attracts many summer 

visitors to tliis place. Tamaqua is visible from the summit, far below ; 

and the Panther-Creek Valley opens away in another direction, with 

the long-discontinued route of the gravity railroad leading out for 2 M. 

The latter section is the centre of the coal region, and visitors sometimes 

enter the mines there. Immense breaker buildings and mountainoxis 

heaps of coal-dust are scattered through the valley, and the remains of 

the old Switch Back R. R are seen on the slopes. Near Summit Hill are 

3 mines which have been burning since 1832, although great sums of 

money have been spent in endeavors to extinguish them. The intensity of 

the heat about the mouth of the crater has calcined and shattered the 

rocks. Tlie return to Upper Mauch Chunk is made on a descending 



310 Route 45. GLEX ONOKO. 

grade of 96 ft. to tlie mile, and the distance (9 M.) is traversed in 20-30 
minutes. 

Glen Onoko is 2 M. above Maucli Chunk, and has recently been opened 
and provided with paths and bridges. It is a ravine varying from 10 to 
80 ft. in widtli, and ascending W, for 900 ft. to the summit of Broad Mt. 
The rock and forest scenery is attractive, and there are numerous cascades, 
which are beautiful in seasons of high xoaier. Leaving the Lehigh near 
the sharp curve at the Tuni Hole Bridge, the visitor passes the Entrance 
Cascade and Pool, the Crystal Cascade, the Pulpit Rocks (1.), Moss 
Cascade, and the white descending waters of the Fawn's Leap. Pleasant 
views of the Spectre Cascade are obtained from the rustic bridge below, 
and then the heart of the glen is entered, with its tall hemlocks bending 
around the Stairway Cascades. From the knoll beyond the next bridge 
is gained a fine view of the falls in advance, with a downward retrospect 
through the forest. The Chameleon Falls are 50 ft. high, and derive 
their name from their prismatic colors. Tlie Elfin Grotto and Tempest 
Rocks are passed, and then the Rainbow Cascade, beyond which are the 
Onoko Falls, tlie most notable of the series, where the brook plunges 
over a cliff 75-90 ft. high. Climbing the cliff, and crossing the water at 
the head of the falls (to the 1. ), Simrise Point is soon reached, with its 
view down the Lehigh Valley, by Mauch Chunk, to the Water Gap. 
Then Terrace Falls are seen, and the Cave Falls, beliind which is a 
shallow grotto which is frequently visited for the sake of the outlook 
tlirough the falling waters. A forest-path leads up to the Rock-Cabin (iu 
8-400 ft.), a favorite resting-place. { M. thence (and 1^ M. from the 
entrance) is Packer's Point, which is provided with an elevated rustic 
platform from which a broad valley-view is gained. 

James Run is a picturesque trout-brook, near whose head is a cluster 
of singular sand-springs. Stony Creek flows through fine forest scenery 
above Glen Onoko, and forms the bright Minisink Falls. S. of Manch 
Chunk are Judge Packer's deer-parks and Lentz's trout-ponds, containing 
500,000 trout. Prospect Rock is a projecting ledge just S. of the Mansion 
House, commanding a view of the valley and villages. Above this point 
is the Flag-Staff peak (30 minutes from the Mansion House), with a far 
more extensive view. The tall trunk of a lightning-blasted hemlock-treo 
formerly stood on this sunmiit; and on its topmost section an American 
flag was nailed in 1S61, and left until torn to pieces by storms. At the 
outbreak of the Franco-Prussian war a Prussian flag was fastened here, 
and the tree was cut down the following night by sympathizers with the 
French. 



After leaving Mauch Chunk, the train passes E. Mauch Chunk and 
Glen Onoko, and then Coalport, a prominent coal-shipping pomt at the 



HAZLETON. Route 45. 311 

head of the canal. The Kittochtinny Gorge is soon passed on the r., and 
the scenery grows very picturesque. Tall wooded hills hem in the ravine 
through which flows the impetuous Lehigh, and the narrow ledge on the 
opposite bank is occupied by the L. & S. R. R. The train soon crosses 
the river to Penn Haven Junction, near the long planes of the Hazleton 
Coal Co. 

From this point diverge 3 branch roads through the coal-regions to the 
W, Tlie Beaver Meadoxo Division passes Black Creek Junction and 
Weatherby (with locomotive and car-works), then ascends for 3 M. a grade 
of 145 ft. to the mile, and at liazle Creek diverges from the Mahanoy Di- 
vision and the Buck Mt. R. R. (which runs 3 M. N. to collieries which 
employ 300 hands, and yield 180,000 tons yearly). The coal-mining vil- 
lages of Beaver Meadow, Leviston, and Jeanesville are next passed, with 
mounds of black dust and refuse along the track, and the immense coal- 
breaker buildings are seen here and there. Audenried (16 M. from Penn. 
Haven) is the terminal station, and has the largest breakers in the Beaver 
Meadow district. The Mahanoy Division diverges at Black Creek, and 
traverses a lumber region to the Little Schuylkill River, which is crossed 
by a fine viaduct 85 ft. high. At Quakake Junction connections are made 
with the CataAvissa R. R. (see Route 47). The train now ascends Broad 
Mt. on a grade of 76 ft. to a mile, and extensive and beautiful views are 
gained from the windows. At Delano are large railroad repair-shops, 
and 4 M. beyond is Mahanoy City (Mansion House), which has 6,000 
inhabitants and 10 churclies (2 Welsh, 2 German). In this vicinity are 
20 collieries, with a capital of $1,500,000, employing 4,000 men and boys, 
and having a capacity of 7 - 800,000 tons a year. The " city " has grown 
mostly since 1862, and has 1 bank, 2 weekly papers, and a main street 1 
M. long and 80 ft. wide. The name Mahanoy is Indian. Passing now 
the collieries at Myersville and Yatesville, the train enters the borough of 
SJienandoah (2 inns). This place Avas founded in 1863, and has 5,000 in- 
habitants, 2 banks, a weekly paper, and 9 churches (3 German, 3 Welsh). 
It is situated in the rich Shenandoah coal-basin, which contains 4 scpiare 
M., and has 12 collieries, producing, in 1872, 1,006,914 tons. The train 
passes thence down the valley by the mines at Raven Run and Centralia 
to 3It. Carmel (6 collieries; 600,000 tons yearly). The coal-roads of the 
Reading R. R. are often seen W. of Mahanoy, and on their line passenger 
trains run from Mt. Carmel to Sunbury, on the N. Central R. R. 

The Hazleton Division diverges from the Beaver Meadow Division at 
Hazle Creek Bridge, and has several branch tracks through the coal-fields. 
Stations, Jeddo (300,000 tons yearly), Drifton (150,000 tons), Woodside 
(50,000 tons). Highland (75,000 tons), Ebervale (250,000 tons), Harleigh 
(150,000 tons), Lattimer (200,000 tons), Milnesville (75,000 tons), and 
Stockton (350,000 tons). Hazleton is 1,800 ft. above the sea, and has 



312 Route 45. WILKES-BARRE. 

5,000 inhabitants, 8 cliurches, and a daily paper. It is well laid out, and 
has an ample supply of gas and water. The main street is 1 ]\I. long and 
100 ft. wide, and has many fine buildings, chief among which is the town- 
hall. Large railroad-shops are located here, and over 1,000,000 tons of 
coal are mined in the vicinity every year. Here is the deepest mine in 
the U. S., having a perpendicular depth of 970 ft. The railroad crosses 
the mts. over the Conyngham Valley, and at Tomhicken connects Avith 
the Danville, Hazletou & Wilkes-Barre R. R., which runs W. to Simbury 
in U M. 

Beyond Penn Haven the main line continues up the narrow glen of the 
Leliigh, througli TjTolese scenery. Sto7iy Creek is a famous trouting 
stream, and far up in its ravine are the Mmisink Falls. Deep cuts are 
traversed, and the line is carried along the steep slopes on substantial 
galleries. Passing several lumber-stations and the small hamlets of 
Rockport and Tannery, the train follows the Lehigh River for many miles, 
with the Green Mts. on the 1,, then crosses to Whitehaven (dinner at 
restaurant in the station ; Whitehaven Hotel), a large village on the verge 
of the middle coal-field, and chiefiy engaged in the lumber business 
(36,000,000 ft. yearly). A canal was formerly used between Whitehaven- 
and Easton, but it was destroyed in 1862 by a flood, which rose 30 ft. 
high, and destroyed 150 human lives, and §2,500,000 worth of property 
(including every bridge on the Lehigh save three). The train runs near 
the Lehigh & Susquehanna R. R. for many miles over heavy upward 
grades, and after passing the Luzerne Ochre Works at Moosehead turns 
W. and traverses the r\igged Nescopec Mts. to Fairview station at Moun- 
tain Top (inn), whence the Wapwallopen Valley is seen in the S. W. for 
over 40 M. Tlie L. & S. R. R. is now crossed, and the track begins to 
descend in Solomon's Gap. . Ashley village is seen in the Valley of Wyo- 
ming, 3 M. distant, and an inclined plane for coal-cars descends thence 
from the Gap (its stationary engines are seen on the r. ). The railroad 
now runs S. for 5 M., then turns sharply and runs N. 6 M., thus reaching 
on long descending planes the valley and the villages of Newport and 
Ashley. The views of Wyoming Valley are very beautiful. The grade 
averages 95 ft. to the mile. Beyond Newport and Espy's Gap, Warrior's 
Gap, with its coal-breaker, is seen on the r. In these dark defiles hun- 
dreds of fugitives from the valley took refuge during the massacre of 
1778. Beyond Sugar Notch large collieries are seen on the r., and from 
Ashley, Solomon's Gap and its inclined plane diverge to the r. The train 
soon enters Wilkes-Barre (* Wyoming Valley Hotel, $ 3. 50 a day, $ 14 - 20 
a week, a summer resort fronting on the river; Luzerne House ; Ex- 
change), the capital of Luzerne County, pleasantly situated on the Susque- 
hanna River. It has 25,000 inhabitants, 18 churches, and 5 banks. The 
principal business streets intersect at a diamond-sliaped square in the 



VALLEY OF WYOMING. Ro^de 45. 313 

centre of the city, on which is the Court House, a large structure in a 
peculiar Romanesque architecture. The county prison is of stone, and 
cost $200,000. On the hill N. of the city is the Memorial Presbyterian 
Church, the finest in the valley. The rooms of the Historical Society 
contain several cabinets of antiquities and of geological specimens. A 
broad esplanade fronts on the river, and is lined with costly and ornate 
villas, each of which stands detached, and looks out over the riparian 
laTvns to the wall of mts. beyond the plains of Kingston. The Opera- 
House is the finest in N. Penn ; and the public library is much frequented. 
The society of the city is of a high order, and is favorably known for its 
literary culture. The pleasant situation of Wilkes Barre, and the vicin- 
ity of fine scenery and hunting-grounds, have made it a summer re- 
sort of considerable popularity. A new steamboat makes pleasant daily 
trips along the Susquehanna, between Wilkes-Barre and Nanticoke 
(9M.). 

Wilkes-Barre was named in honor of John Wilkes and Colonel Barrd, eminent 
Englislnnen who defended in Parliament the rights of the American colonies. It 
was founded in 1772, but was burned during the Pennamite War, and advanced 
but slowly until the coal development began. It became a city in 1871. Anthra- 
cite coal was used by the Yankee settlers before the Revolution, and the Red 
Ash Mine was opened in 1807. Since that time (and especially since 1850) the 
production has been immense. There are 8 companies engaged in mining about 
the city, with 30 breakei-s, employing 12,500 men and boys, and having a capacity 
of about 4,500,000 tons yearly. The northern coal-field extends from below Shick- 
shinny, through the Susquehanna and Lackawanna Talleys, to Carbondale, covering 
an area of 77 square M. It is estimated that 2,285,600,000 tons underlie this tract. 
The rich Wyoming veins average 80 ft. in aggregate thickness, and will yield 80,000 
tons to the acre. Horse-cars run from Wilkes-lJarre to S. Wilkes-Barre and Ash- 
ley ; also (crossing the river) to Kingston, the seat of the fine buildings of the 
Wyoming Seminary. The Lackawanna & Bloomsburg R. R. runs from Kingston 
to Scranton (17 M. N. E.) and Northumberland (C3 M. S. W.). 

Many interesting excursions may be made from this point. Prospect 

Bock is 2 M. distant, and 750 ft. above the river (the highway ascends 

the mt. to within 500 ft. ). The * view includes the city and river, the 

opposite mts., and a great part of the Wyoming Valley. 

"There is a beetling precipice upon the verge of the eastern barrier, called 
' Prospect Rock,' from the top of which nearly the entire valley can be surveyed 
at a single view, forming one of the richest and most beautiful landscajx^s upon 
which the eye of man ever rested. Through the centre of the valley Hows the 
Su.squehanna, the winding course of which can be traced the whole distance. 
Several green islands slumber sweetly in its embrace, while the sight revels 
amidst tlie garniture of fields and woodlands ; and to complete the picture, low 
in the distance may be dimly seen the borough of Wilkes-Barre, especially the 
spires of its churches." (Stone, History of IVyoming.) 

Harvey's Lake {* Lake House) is 12 M. N. W. of Wilkes-Barre, and 
is a vast spring of pure clear water, 200 ft. deep, and covering 1,285 
acres. It is much visited for its boating, fishing, and game dinners, and 
is reached by a road which crosses the W. mt. -wall and affords beautiful 
valley-views. The lake is 1,000 ft. above the Susquehanna, and is over- 
shadowed by the main range of the Allegheny Mts. 
14 



314 Route 45. VALLEY OF WYOMING. 

The site of Forty Fort is 4 M. N. of Wilkes-Bavre ; and just beyond 
(near the hamlet of Troy) is a massive granite monument, 62| ft. high, 
over the remains of tliose who were slain during the battle and mas- 
sacre. The road passes on to the site of Wintermoot's Fort (1^ M.), 
near the pretty Monocasy Lsland. Queen Esther s Rock is shown near 
this point, and marks the place where Queen Esther of the Senecas 
(otherwise called Kate Montour; a daughter of the Marquis de Fron- 
tenac) massacred 14 American soldiers with her own hand. The Valley 
of Wyoming is favorably seen by driving up this river-road. It is 20 M. 
long by an average width of 3 ]\I., and is bounded by mt. -walls, of which 
that on the W. is 800 ft. high, and that on the E. is 1,000 ft. high. The- 
valley is nearly elliptical, and is traversed by the Susquehanna River in a 
gentle current, 6 - 700 ft. wide and 4-20 ft. deep. The river enters on 
the N. E. through the rocky defile of the Lackawannock Gap, and passes 
out to the S. W. thi-ough the Nanticoke Gap. The alluvial plains which 
border this fair stream are remarkably rich and productive, and are under- 
laid by thick strata of anthracite coal. 

" On Susquehanna's side, fair Wyoming ! 

.... thou wert once the loveliest land of nil 
That sees the Atlantic wave their morn restore. 

" Delightful Wyoming 1 beneath thy skies 
The happy sh'epliora swains h:id naught to do 
But feed their flocks on preen <leelivities. 
Or skim perchance thy lake with lipht canoe, 
From morn till evening s sweeter pastime grew 

" With timbrel, when beneath the forests brown 
Thy lovely maidens would the dance renew ; 
Ana aye those sunny mountains half-way down 
Would echo Hagclet from some romantic town. 

" Whoop after whoop with wrack the ear assailed I 
As if uneanhly fiends had burst their bar. 
While rapidly the marksman s sliot prevailed ; 
And aye, as if for death, some lonely trumpet wailed." 

iCami'bkll, Gtrtiw.le of Wyoming.) 

The Valley of Wyoming was first occiipied by the Siisiiuehannock.s, a powerful 
and seini-civilized clan of Indians. After tlie Leiii Lenape nation (Delawares) 
had marched from the remote West and conquered the Mi.ssissii)pi Valley, tUey 
advanced to the Atlantic coast and occupied it irom the Potomac to the Hudson. 
The yusquehannocks were driven from their homes, and the Minisink. tribe of 
the Delawares occupied tlie Valley. These were succeeded by a clan of the Shaw- 
nees, "that restless nation of wanderers," who liad been driven from Florida and 
were adopted and protected by the Delawares. They built a town near the present 
site of Kingston, and by 1732 liad 3-400 warriors. After the subjugation of tlie 
Delawares by tlie confederated Six Nations (of New York), in 1742, they were 
ordered to Wyoming by their conquerors, and built the town of Maughwawame, 
near the present Wilkes-Barre. Ab<mt the same time the Nanticoke Indians 
moved from the eastern shore of Maryland into the lower part of the Valley, near 
the Nanticoke Falls of the yusquehanna. In 1742 Count Zinzendorf and another 
Moravian missionary came to the Shiiwriee town to establish a mission ; but the 
natives, suspicious of European rajmeity, determined on his assassination. " The 
count was alone in his tent, reclining upon a bundle of dry weeds, destined for his 
bed, and engaged in writing, or in devout meditation, when the assassins crept 
stealthily to the tent upon their murderous errand. A blanket-curtain, suspended 
upon piiis, formed the door o. his tent, and, by gently raising a corner of the 



VALLEY OF WYOMING. Route 45. 315 

curtain, the Indians, undiscovered, had a full view of the venerable patriarch, un- 
conscious of lurking danger, and with the calmness of a saint upon his benignant 
features. They were awe-stricken by his appearance. But tliis was not all. It 
was a cool night in yepteniber, and the count had kindled a small lire for his com- 
fort. Warmed by the flame, a large rattlesualie ]\ad crept from its covert, and, 
approaching the fire for its greater enjoyment, glided liarndessly over one of the 
legs of the holy man, whose thoughts, at the moment, were not occupied upon 
tlie grovelling things of earth. He perceived not the serpent ; but the Indians, 
with breathless attention, had observed the wiiole movement of the poisonous 
reptile ; and, as they gazed upon the aspect and attitude of the count, .... 
their enmity was immediately changed to reverence ; and, in the belief that their 
intended victim enjoyed the si)ecial protection of the Great Spirit, they desisted 
from their bloody purpose and retired. Thenceforward the count was regarded 
by the Indians with the most ])rofound veneration." A mission was established, 
which lasted many years. About the year 1755, while the Shawnee and Delaware 
hunters were on the mts., their wives and children were gathering fruit togetlier, 
when a quarrel arose between certain of the little ones about the possession of a 
large grasshopper. The mothers took the part of their children, and the war of 
words was succeeded by a physical contest in which several Shawnee women were 
maltreated. On the return of the hunters to the towns, the incensed Sliawnees 
attacked Maughwawame, and, after a long and obstinate battle, were repulsed 
with great slaughter. The Delawares then drove them from the Valley, and they 
retired to Ohio, and the Nanticokes soon moved to Chemung. After Braddock's 
defeat the Delawares became insurgent, and ravaged the Peini. settlements, until 
they were pacified by the Moravians and Sir Wm. Julmsiui ; and after tlie great 
council at Easton they retired to the Valley, where liouses were built for them by 
the province. The Royal Charter of Connecticut (1GG4) defined the territory of that 
colony as extending from Narragansett Bay to the Pacific Ocean, and consequently 
including all of Northern Peim. In 1762 several hundred Conn, people moved into 
the Valley, and made a thriving settlement near Maughwawame. But the vengeful 
Iroquois, having murdered Teedyuscung, chief of the Delawares, fiithered the crime 
upon the new immigrants, wlio were soon furiously assailed by the grieving tribe, 
and forced to flee from Wyoming. 30 of the men of Conn, were massacred, and 
their deserted village was given to the flames. The troops of Penn. then drove 
the Indians from the dlstriv't, and colonists from that province entered. In 17o9 
a large colony came from Conn, and fortified themselves against Penn., which 
claimed the territory ; and a series of attacks and reprisals began. 240 Penn. 
troops, with artillery, soon entered the Valley, and, after a siege, took the fort, 
plundered the village, drove ott'the stock, and ejected the New England men. In 
March, 1770, the men of Conn, returned in force, and captured the place after a 
siege and cannonade ; and, 7 months later, 140 Pennsylvanians crossed the mts. 
and fell by surprise on the settlement. Hundreds of prisoners were taken thence 
to Easton ; the fort was carried by a night-assaidt in which several were killed ; 
and the farm-houses were completely stripped. In December the fort was re- 
taken by Connecticut men and Lancastrians, who evacuated it by night after re- 
pulsing an attack in which the Penn. conmiander was killed. July 6, 1771. a 
resolute Conn, force descended from the mts. and invested Fort Wyoming. After 
a six weeks' siege, in whi(^h several were killed and wounded on each side, the 
place was surrendered, and the Valley was soon filled with Yankee settlers. It 
was attached to Litchfield County, and was represented in the Conn. Assembly. 
Late in 1775, 700 Pennsylvanians marched against the colony, but were repulsed 
with severe loss by the settlers ambushed in the defile at Nanticoke Falls. Soon 
afterwards 300 men marched from tlie Valley to tlie Continental army. In the 
summer of 1778, 400 Tory Rangers and Royal Greens and 700 Indians (mostly 
Senecas) advanced against Wyoming, and were valiantly attacked by Col. Zebulon 
Butler with 400 of the settlers, — mostly old men and striplings, the enemy was 
at first driven back by the heroic charges of the Americans, but the little force 
was soon outflanked and enveloped by the Indians, and a horrible massacre en- 
sued. The non-combatants of the Valley fled to Forty Fort (5i- M. N. of Wilkes- 
Bane), and over the mts. to Stroudsburg ; and scores of women and children 
perished amid the gloomy defiles and swamps of "The Shades of Death." The 
survivors of ihe battle gathered at Forty Fort, but that place was surrendered 
next day, and the entire Valley was then swept with fire and rapine. Over 300 



3 1 G Route 4.5. TUNKHANNOCK. 

persons fell on this mournful day, although the cainage ended wlien the fort sur- 
rendered. A few bold settlers returned after the enemy had departed, and forts 
were erected, but the savajies frequently swept through the district. Auotlier 
{,'reat swann from the New England hive settled V.ere about 1780, and in 1782 the 
State of Penn. took the forts, disarmed and plundered the people, and drove them 
into the wilderness, where many died of hardship and exposure. New swarms 
from Conn, and fresh levies of Penn. troops kept u]-' a state of hostilities here for 
years, with sieges and bloodshed and captivities. (These outrages and ejectments 
were done by the State in the interest of the proprietors chartered by Penn ; but 
the people of the State were in synipatliy with the Conn, colonists.) In 1799 the 
" Pennamite Wars " were happily ended by the cession of the 17 townships of the 
Valley to the New-Englanders. " The population of that part of Penn. is chiefly 
run It'cw England ; and for the last 35 years the Valley of Wyoming has been as 
r iiiarkable fo"r its tranquilUty as for the preceding 50 years it had been for its 
turbulence." 

Beyond Wilkes-Barre the Lehigh Valley R. R. follows the river, ami 

jiasse.s the Wyoming, Henry, Burrouglis, and Enterprise collieries on the r. 

On the 1., across the river, are the villages of Kingston, Forty Fort, and 

Wyoming (beyond Monocasy Island). Passing Plainesville, Inkermann, 

and the Penn. Coal Co.'s collieries, the train enters the horough of Pitts- 

ton, situated near the confluence of the Susquehanna and Lackawanna 

Rivers. With the adjacent mining villages, Pittston has a population of 

over 16,000 (borough, census of 1870, 6,760 inhabitants). Its reason for 

being is the immense deposit of coal in the vicinity; and the shafts, 

planes, and breakers of the Penn. Coal Co. are seen on every side. 

2,200,000 tons is the yearly product of this district. The suburb of W. 

Pittston is pleasantly situated across the Susquehanna, at the head of the 

Wyoming Valley. 

At Pittston the Lehigh & Susquehanna R. R, which has followed the present 
route from Easton, diverges to the N E. to Scranton. The Lehigh Valley train 
passes on to the rails of the Penn. & N. Y. Canal & R. R. Co. (under the L. V. R. R. 
management), and connects at tlie L. & B. Junction with the Lackawanna & 
Bloomsburg R. R. (for Northumberland and Scranton). 

Crossing the Lackawanna River, the train passes on by Coxton (opposite 
the far-viewing Campbell's Ledge), Ransom, Falls (pretty cascade seen 
from the cars), McKune's (opposite Keelersville), and La Grange, and 
reaches Tunkhannock. This is the capital of Wyoming County, and 
has 4 churches and a bank. Tliere are blue-stone quarries in the vicinity, 
and the village has a large tratle with the rural valley-towns. It i.s 
pleasantly situated amid picturesque scenery at the confluence of the 
Tunkhannock Creek and the Susquehanna River, and is near Triangle 
Hill, a lofty spur of the Tunkhannock Mt. A bridge crosses the river 
to Eaton, near which is the tall peak called The Knah. 

A narrow-gauge railroad runs from Tunkhannock, across the hill-towns of 
Lemon, Spriugville, and Dimock, to Montrose, the capital of Susquehanna 
County, 27 M. N. It is a borough of 1,:>00 inhabitants, and is situated on the 
highlands near the head of Wyalusing Creek. Daily stages run S. E. to Montrose 
station (Route 44). About 10 M. N. W. is the convent and college of St. Joseph, 
near Silver Lake. 



TO WAND A. Route Jf5. 317 

Voshurg is 1 M. from Tuukliannock, but the line follows the sinuosities 
of the river for 6 M. in order to reach it. The hills rise on every side, 
and the train sweeps around broad curves and passes ever-clianging com- 
liinations of forest and rock scenery. Stations, Me.shoppen, Black Walnut, 
Skinner's Eddy, and Laceyville, near each of which are lucrative quarries 
of blue-stone (for sidewalks and steps). Wyalusing (an Indian name 
said to signify "the beautiful hunting-grounds") is a plea.sant village 
near the fruitful Plains of Wyalusing. On these intervales was a large 
village of Delaware Indians, holding the war-path to the land of the 
Five Nations. They were taught in a vague pagan morality by the 
sagacious Papunhank, but were afterwards visited by the Moravian Zeis- 
bp.rger, who converted Papunhank and his followers. The village Avas 
jjartially broken up during Pontiac's War, and was refoimded about 1766, 
bearing the name of Friedenslmtten ("the Tents of Peace"). From the 
tower of the Moravian-Indian church soiuided the first bell in the upper 
Susquehanna Valley. In 1772 the people of Wyalusing moved to Ohio; 
and their memory is honored by a neat granite obelisk, erected by the 
Moravian Historical Society, just S. of the village. 

Frenchtotcn is in the district which was inhabited by the refugees from 
Paris during the Revolution of 1793. They settled upon the lands of 
liobert Morris, and formed a pleasant village, but returned to France 
some years after, leaving a few of their number m occupation. The 
Marquis de Noailles was one of the leaders of these emir/res, and other 
Koyalist officers were present. Louis Philippe, Duke of Orleans, spent 
some time at Frenchtowai, and it is claimed that the king and queen were 
to have joined their nobles here. "The Queen's House" was built in a 
remote and secluded place in the forest; but Marie Antoinette was doomed 
to die a ten-ible death in Paris, and could not. exchange the gardens of 
Versailles for the wilds of Suscpiehanna. Stations, Pciimvierjield, Standing 
Stone (near a great stone which here stands in the river, and was a land- 
mark for the early Indians), and Wysauking, a pretty farming village 
whose name signilies "the Place of Grapes." Stages run N. and E. to 
Leraysville, Orwell, and Rome (near which are sulphur-springs). The 
train now runs through straight narrows between high cliffs, and passes 
Towanda ( Ward House; Mean's Hotel), a thriving and handsome borough 
situated in a broad bend of the Susquehanna, and much visited in summer. 
It is the capital of Bradford County, and has nearly 3,000 inhabitants, 
with 6 churches, a bank, 3 weekly papers, and prosperous manufactories. 
The Susquehanna Collegiate Institute is a Presbyterian academy situated 
on a hill S. W. of the village, and has about 230 students (of both sexes). 
The borough has a lucrative trade with the surrounding country (which is 
populated with descendants of the New England immigrants of the last 
century), and exports large quantities of poultry and dairy products. 



318 Route 45. ATHENS. 

The name Tmoanda is said to signify *' the Burial-Place," and is derived 
from the fact that the Nanticoke Indians, who had moved hither from the 
E. shore of Maryland, retunied to their ancient domains and removed the 
bones of their ancestors to this place. Stages run from Towanda to Troy, 
Orwell, and Canton (26 M.); and the Barclay R. R. inins S. W, np the 
narrow valley of Towanda Creek to the coal-mines at Barclay, 16 M. 
distant, under tlie Towanda Mts. The Sullivan ct Erie R. R. runs S. W, 
from Towanda, leaving tlie Barclay R. R. 7 M, beyond the borough, and 
passing S., by New Lancaster and Dushore, to Bcrnice (29 M.), situated 
on a lofty plateau near New Theuringen and Laporte, and in the vicinity 
of prolitable coal-mines. These railroads are chiefly used for trans- 
porting bituminous coal, and more than 1,000,000 tons passed over their 
lines in 1871 - 73, 

The train now crosses the Susquelianna, and runs N. near the Penn. & 
N. Y. Canal. Ulster is in the ancient Sheshequin district, formerly a 
Moravian nussion-station ; and Milan is near the old home of Queen 
Esther, whose " palace " was destroyed by Sullivan's army in 1779. The 
line now enters a more open country, and reaches Athens ( Exchange Ho- 
tel), a prosperous village situated on the intervales at the confluence of the 
Susquchaima and Chemung Rivers. The Indian village on Tioga Point 
was known as Diahoga, and was one of the largest in Penn. , being the 
"South Door" of the "long house "of the Six Nations, and under the 
guard of the Senecas. Here the Six Nations located the Delawares after 
thiiir subjugation, and they remained until 1758, when the tribe moved to 
Wyoming. Tlie Tory-Indian forces rendezvoused here before and after 
the Massacre of Wyoming, and Sullivan's army encamped here and forti- 
fied the point in 1779. Athens Avas settled in 1783, and was laid out and 
organized by Conn, in 1786. It was made a borough in 1831, and has 
1,000 inhabitants, witli 6 churches, 2 weekly papers, and a large trade in 
hay, grain, and butter. N. W. of Athens is Spanish Hill, a far-viewing 
bluff" 178 ft. high, with remains of old fortifications. It is said that 
Spanish coins have been found there. The Indians called it Spanish Hill, 
and carefully avoided its vicinity ; and it is held that the military works 
were erected by the Marqxiis de Nonville in 1688 (perhaps by De Soto, 
see page 170). The ti'am crosses the Chemung River, passes Sayre, and 
enters New York State, reaching the Erie Railway at Waverly. 

Waverly to Buffalo and Niagara, see page 227; to Watkins Glen, see 
page 208. 

The Ithaca & Athens R. R runs N. from Athens and Sayre to Ithaca in 40 M., 
ascending the Cayuta Valley to Van Ettenville, whence it tui-ns E. to Spencer. 
N. Spencer is near the sulphur and chalybeate waters of Spencer Springs, a 
suuimer resort with 2 hotels. Skirting the rugged highland towns of Danby and 
Ncwlield, the train p'asses the hills in whose recesses are the Buttermilk, New- 
field, and Enfteld Glens, and follows the Cajaiga Inlet to Ithaca (see page 204). 



MORAVIA. Route 4G. 319 

The Southern Central R. R. 

runs N . from Sayre through Central N. Y. and by Lake Owasco and Auburn, to 
Fairhaven, on Lake Ontario, intersecting the Erie, Ithaca & Elmira, N. Y. Cen- 
tral, and Lake Ontario Shore Railroads. Fare from Sayre to Fairhaven, $3.65. 

Stations. — Sayre ; Sniithboro', 9 M. ; Tioga, 13; Owego, 19; Flemlng\-ille, 
23 ; Newark, 28 ; Berkshire, 34 ; Richford, 38 ; Harford, 44 ; Dryden, 50 ; Free- 
ville, 53 ; Groton, 58 ; Locke, 64 ; Moravia, 08 ; Wyckoff's, 78'; Auburn, 85 ; 
Weedsport, 95 ; Cato, 103 ; Martville, 111 ; Sterling, 113 (Oswego, 129 ; 386 M. 
from Phila.) ; Fairhaven, 116. 

The train diverges to the N. E. at Sayre, and runs along the Susque- 
hanna River, the track lying Jiear that of the Erie Railway for 13 M. At 
Owego (see page 227) the line turns N. up the Owego River, and traverses 
several of the hill-towns of Tioga County. Passing near Dryden Lake 
(1 M. long; 1,500 ft. above the sea) and the thriving village of Dryden, the 
Ithaca & Cortland R. R. is intersected at Freeville, and the train crosses 
the to\\rns of Groton and Locke. Moravia is pleasantly situated on the 
rich alluvial flats 3 M. S. of the head of Owasco Lake, and is surrounded 
by picturesque hill-scenery. A pleasant road leads 10 M. N. E. across 
the town of Sempronius to the sequestered Glen Haven Water Cure, at 
the head of Skaneateles Lake (see page 200) ; and the beautiful hamlet of 
Aurora is about 16 M. W., on Cayuga Lake. At Owasco Valley the train 
reaches Owasco Lake (see page 201), whose W. shore is now followed for 
10 M., aifording pleasant views of the narrow and tranquil waters. The 
Old Road of the N, Y. Central is crossed at Auburn (see page 200), and 
the New Road is met' at Wcedsport (see page 170), 10 M. N. The train 
next traverses the towns of Cato and Ira (adjoining Conquest and Victory) 
intersects tin; Lake Ontario Shore R. R. at Sterling, and reaches its ter- 
minus at Fairhaven, a port on Little Sodus Bay, one of the best harbors 
on Lake Ontario. 

46. Philadelphia to Saratoga and Montreal Sharon 
Springs and Otsego Lake. 

By the N. Penn., Lehigh & Susquehanna, and Delaware & Hudson Canal Co.'s. 
R;iilroads. The districts whicli are traversed by tliese connecting lines are full 
of interest, and drawing-room cars reduce tlie hardships of travelling to a mini- 
mum. The distance from Pliila. to Saratoga by this route is somewhat longer 
than by way of New York (Routes 37 or 39, 8, and 10), but many travellers prefer 
it on account of the variety of the hill-scenery. The Saratoga route nearly coin- 
cides for 125 M. with the Lehigh Valley route to Central New Yorlc (using also with 
that line the N. Penn. R. R. to Bethlehem) ; and as the latter is perhaps the more 
important, the country between Phila. and Wilkes-Barre is described under its 
heading (Route 45). Information relative to fares, excursion-tickets, and con- 
nections may be obtained in Phila. at 700 Chestnut St., 105 S. Fifth St., or the 
N. Penn. station ; and in New York at the station of the Central R. R. of N. J. 
(foot of Liberty St.). Through cars run from Phila. to Scrauton (also from N. Y. 
to Williamsport or Scranton). 

Stations. — .V. Penn. R. R. — Philadelphia ; York Road, 7 M. ; Port Washing- 
ingtnn, 10 ; Lansdale, 22 ; Souders, 27 ; Quakertown, 38 ; Coopersburg, 44 ; Beth- 
lehem, 55. Lehigh & Suaquehanna R. R. (running from Easton, 11 M. N. E. of 
Bethlehem). — AUentown, 60 ; Catasauqua, 64 ; Laubach's, 66 ; Siegfried's Bridge 



320 Route 4G. NESQUEHONING VALLEY. 

67 ; Treichlev's, 71 ; Walnutport, 75 ; Lehigh Gap, 78 ; Parryville, S3 ; Weissport, 
85 ; Lehightou, 86 ; Maucli Chunk, 89 ; Penn Haven Junction, 96 ; Rockport 
104 ; White Haven, 110 ; Penobscot, 123 ; Asliley, 136 ; Wilkes-Barre, 139 ; Pitts- 
ton, 148 ; Moosic, 152 ; Scranton, 158 ; Green Ridge, 160. Del. & Hudson R. R. 
— Providence, 161; Dickson, 162; Olyphant, 164 ; Peckville, 165 ; Archbald, 169 ; 
Gibsonburg, 172; C'arbondale, 176. Jeffcrsoyi Branch, Eric Raihvay. — Forest City, 
131; Uniondale, 187 ; Herrick Centre, ISO; Ararat Summit, 194; Thompson's, 
200 ; Starucca, 203 ; Nineveli Junction, 211 (divergence of tlie Erie R. R. to Bing- 
hamton). Nineveh Branch. — Comstock, 218 ; Windsor, 221 ; Ouaquaga, 224 ; 
Centre Village, 220; Nineveh, 232. Albany & Susquehanna R. R. (main line). — 
Binr^hamlon to Nineveh, 23 M. ; Afton, 237 M. (from Phila.); Bainbridge, 243; 
Sidney, 248 ; Unadilla, 252 ; Wells Bridge, 256 ; Otego, 261 ; Oneonta, 269 ; Col- 
liei's, 275; C. & S. V. R. R. Junction, 276 (branch to Cooperstown, 292); Mary- 
land, 281 ; Schenevus, 284; W^orcester, 280 ; E. Worcester, 204; Richmondville, 
301; Cobleskill, 306 (branch to Hyndsville, 311; Seward, 315; Sharon Springs, 
320; Cherry VaUey, 329); Howe's Cave, 312; Central Bridge, 315 (branch to 
Schoharie, 319^ ; Middleburg, 325^) ; Esperance, 320 ; Quaker Street, 324 (branch 
to Schenectady, 339); Duanesburg, 327; Knowersville, 334; Guilderland, 337; 
New Scotland, 340; Slingerlands, 344; Albany, 351 (Boston, 552); Saratoga, 389 ; 
Montreal, 628. 

The train leaves tlie station on Berks St., Phila,, and runs N. over the 
N. Penn. E. R. (Route 45) to Bethlehem (see page 301). At this point 
the Lehigh & Susquehanna R. R. is intersected (coming from Easton, 11 
M. N. E. ), and tlie train turns to the S. W. up the valley of the Lehigh, 
with the Lehigh Valley R. R. on the opposite shore under the slopes of 
South Mt. Allentown is soon seen, crowning a symmetrical hill on the 
1., and is reached from the station by crossing the Lehigh River and the 
fine viaduct over the Jordan valley (see page 304). The line now ascends 
tlie valley through a rich mining district, passing Catasauqua (see page 
305) and Hokendauqua, and at Lauhach's (opposite Coplay) the slate 
region is entered. Siegfried is opposite Whitehall; the flour and lumber 
mills of Treichler are opposite Rockdale ; and Walnutpm-t is opposite the 
great slate-quarries of Slatington (see page 306). The long dark ridge of 
the Blue Mt. is now approached, and the train traverses the narrow pass 
which is called the Lehigh Water Gap. The next important stations are 
Parrymlle, near valuable paint-mines and iron-works; and Weissport, 
opposite Lehighton, to which the train passes by a bridge over the river. 
The Big Creek and Mauch Chunk Mts, are now rapidly approached, and 
beyond Packerton (Lehigh Valley R. R. coal-depot) the line traverses a 
narrow and winding gorge and reaches Maucli Chunk (see page 307). 
The picturesque church and village, the spacious Mansion House, and the 
terminal peak of the Summit Hill R. R., are seen as the train sweeps on 
to Coalport, the chief coal-depot of this line. 

The Nesquehoning Valley Branch diverges from Maueh Chunk and traverses a 
rugged country to Tamanend, 18 M. S. W., showing some bold and imposing 
works of engineering. The Nesquehoning Valley lies between Broad Mt. (r.) and 
Sharp Mt. (i.), and near its end the line passes through Broad Mt. in a tunnel 
5,000 ft. long. Beyond Hometown the wild gorge of the Little Schuylkill is 
crossed on a timber bridge 1,200 ft. long and 158 ft. high ; and the train passes on 
to Tamanend (under Mahanoy Mt.), where it connects with the Catawissa R. R, 
for WiUiainsport (see Route 47). 



CARBONDALE. Route 46. 321 

Beyond Coalport the line ascends through picturesque scenery, and at 
Penn Haven tlie branch railroads are seen diverging to the W. betAveen 
Broad and Spring Mts. The Lehigh Valley R. R. crosses the present 
route several times, and the two lines run up side by side to Whitehaven, 
whence the Nescopec Branch runs along the dreary highlands of the Green 
Mt. to Upper Lehigh, 8 M. W. Leaving the Lehigh River tlie train now 
strikes across the Nescopec Mt. to the N. W. ; passes through a tunnel 
1,800 ft. long, and traverses a wide and desolate plateau. The two rail- 
roads run nearly parallel as far as Solomon's Gap, passing Penobscot 
(Fairview), with its broad prospect down the Wapwallopen Valley. At 
Solomon's Gap the L. V. R. R. begins the descent of the rats, by running 
to the W. ; and the present route turns to the N. E. and passes Laurel 
Run, ^ M. from Prospect Rock (which commands a superb * view). 
Rounding the ridge the train descends to the S. W., doubling on its pre- 
vious course, with the * Valley of Wyoming outspread on the r. The 
track is on a lofty gallery cut out from the side of the mt. , and descends 
on a grade of 96 ft. to 1 M. Reaching the level of the Valley the line 
once more reverses its course and runs N. E. through Ashley to Wilkos- 
Barre, the metropolis of Wyoming (see page 312). From this point the 
Valley is followed about midway between the Susquehanna River and the 
W. range of mts. through a region abounding in coal-mines and enor- 
mous breakers. Near Pittstonjhe lofty cliff of Campbell's Rock is seen, 
and the line runs up the Lackawanna Valley to Scranton (see page 246). 
Crossing the Roaring Brook valley the great round-houses and workshops 
of Scranton are seen on the r., and the line is carried across the Pine 
Brook valley to the suburb of Green Ridge, where connections are made 
with the Delaware & Hudson Canal Co. 's R. R. Crossing the Lackawan- 
na River and ascending its valley, between the Moosic and Lackawanna 
Mts., numerous collieries are passed, with villages which are inhabited 
mostly by foreigners and miners. From Olyphant begins the ascent of 
the Gravity Railroad, crossing Moosic Mt. to Honesdale ; and beyond the 
modern and populous villages of Archbald and Gibsonburg the train 
reaches Carbondale. This is a modern city of 6,393 inhabitants, situated 
at the N. end of the anthracite-coal district, and nearly surrounded by 
tall ridges. There is but little to interest the traveller in this vicinity, 
except the collieries and tlieir engineering Avorks. There are 4 large coal- 
mines near the city, with beds of anthracite 20 ft. in thickness. The ex- 
tensive car-shops of the D. k H. R. R. are located here ; and in the 
vicinity is the track of the Gravity Road, on which long trains of coal- 
cars are drawn on inclined planes to the top of Moosic Mt. (850 ft.) by 
stationary engines. From the summ,it they descend to Honesdale, 16 M. 
distant, where the coal is discharged into the boats of the Delaware k, 
Hudson Canal, and is carried by that route to the Hudson River. There 
14* u 



322 Route JfS. SIDNEY PLAINS. 

are 2 planes between Olyphant and Carbondale, and 8 between Carbon- 
dale and Honesdale ; over which continuous trains are passing, seemingly 
without any impelling force. The empty cars are sent back over another 
series of planes. Stages run daily from Carbondale to Honesdale (16 M. ). 
6 M. N. W. of the city is the mountain-loch called Crystal Lake, with a 
summer hotel and a small steamboat. 

The train now runs N. on the Jefferson Branch of the Erie Railway, 
crossing the E. part of the cold and mountainous Susquehanna County. 
The country is wild, and in places assumes an air of picturesque beauty, 
and the settlements are few and small. Most of the inhabitants are 
engaged in the lumber or tannery business. On the E. are the rugged 
ridges of the Moosic ML ; and W. of Uniondale is Elk Mt., the last of 
the Tunkhannock Mts. Beyond Herrick the train ascends the great spur 
of the Alleghenies called Ararat Mt., and at Summit station attains an 
altitude of 2,500 ft. above the sea (the highest point reached by any 
regular railroad E. of the Rocky Mts. ). The scenery is bold and striking 
as the train advances to Thomjysnn, a lumber village situated in a lofty 
glen. Starucca (Mountain Hoiise) is next passed, and the train descends, 
by Stephen spoint, to the banks of the Susquehanna River. The through 
train passes to Nineveh, by the Nineveh Branch (in 22 M.), and the Erie 
runs N. W. to Binghamton (see page 226). 

Binghamton to Nineveh. 

The train leaves the Erie station at Binghamton, and runs N. W. through a 
region of high hills and sinyuliir glens, passing the Inebriate Asylum on the r. 
Stations, Port Crane, Osborne Hollow, and Tunnel, where a tunnel i M. long is 
traversed. This cutting was difficult, because of the hardness of the rock ; but 
exposure to the air caused it to crumble, until an inner arch of firm stone was 
built. The A. & S. and the Erie Railways at one time contested the possession 
of this tunnel, and moved several thousand men on the ground. The so-called 
Erie War was only quelled by the occupation of the place by troops of the State. 
Station, Nineveh, on the Susquehanna River. 



Beyond Nineveh the line traverses the broad intervales of the river, 
which curves gracefully through farms and cultivated fields. Station, 
A/ton, a prosperous village with a suspension-bridge over the river. 
Vallonia Springs {Sjiring House) is a highland hamlet, amid picturesque 
scenery to the S., with stages to Afton. The waters contain sulphur, 
magnesia, and iron, are strongly prophylactic, and are efficient in cuta- 
neous diseases. Station, Bainhridge, a brisk village in a wide valley, 
which is well cultivated and fertile. Stages run to Coventry, Greene, 
Oxford, Norwich, Guilford, and Deposit. Station, Sidney Plains {Dela- 
ware House; Bartlett House), where settlements were formed in 1772, 
and destroyed in 1777 by the Indians. It was founded by Rev. Wm. 
Johnson, and was named for Admiral Sir Sidney Smith. The highway 
to Catskill was bidlt by the State in 1790. The Midland Railroad 



COOPERSTOWN. Route 4^. 323 

(Route 32) crosses the present route at this point. Station, Unadilla, 
(Unadilla House), a thriving village from which stages run to Walton, 
Butteniuts, Cannonsville, and Delhi. The train crosses the Susquehanna 
twice, and stops at Otego (Otego House), whence stages run to Franklin, 
Walton, and Delhi. Station, Oneonta (Grand Central Hotel ; Susque- 
hanna House), a factory village Avith stage-routes to Morris, Laurens, 
and Delhi. Colliers (Goodyear House) is at the confluence of Schenevus 
Creek and the Susquehanna. 1 M. beyond (75 M. from Albany; 67 M. 
from Binghamton is the C. & S. V. R. R. Junction, whence trains run 
to CooperstoAvn in 1 hr. (16 M. N.). 

Cooperstown {* Cooper House, .$4 a day, $16-25 a week; Fenimore 
House ; Central House) is situated at the foot of Otsego Lake, where the 
Susquehanna River flows forth. It is surrounded by hills, and from tlse 
beauty of the scenery and the purity of the highland air it has become a 
favorite summer resort. Besides the large hotels, there are many fine 
man.'jions in the village, and the resident society is of a high order. The 
Cooper House is 1,100 ft. above the sea, and from its vicinity Otsego Lake 
is overlooked and the rolling hills on eitlier side. A broad view is gained 
from the lofty Observatory Hill. This place was occupied by Clinton's 
army in 1779, when a dam was erected at the outlet in order to allow the 
boat-expedition to pass doAvn the river. In 1786 Judge Wm. Cooper 
came here with his family, and made the first settlement. Cooperstown 
is the capital of Otsego County, and has nearly 2,000 inhabitants, with 6 
churches and 4 banks. It has been visited by Washington, Talleyrand, 
and other eminent men. 

James Fenimore Cooper was born at Burlington, N. J., in 1789, studied at 
Yale, and served in the U. S. Navy 6 years (1805-11). Between 18i21 and 1833 
he wrote many novels, depicting scenes of naval adventure ("Wing and Wing," 
" The Pilot," •' The Water Witch," etc.) and episodes in early N. Y. history and 
Indian life ("The Pioneer." "The Deerslayer," etc.). He also wrote works on 
foreign travel, and several naval histories. He lived at Cooperstown, whose 
vicinity has been made classic by his eloquent descriptions. " Here he passed 
his childhood, with the vast forests around him, stretching up the mts. that 
overlook the lake and far beyond, in a region where the Indian yet roamed and 
the white hunter .... sought his game ; a region in which the bear and the 
wolf were yet hunted, and the panther, more formidable than either, larked in 
the thickets, and tales of wanderings in the wilderness and encounters with 
these fierce animals beguiled the length of the winter nights." In his later 
years Mr. Cooper retired to his estate in Cooperstown, and here he died in 1851. 

" The enduring monuments of Fenimore Cooper are his works. While the love 
of country continues to prevail, his memory will exist in the hearts of the 
people." (D. Webster.) " The works of our great national novelist have 
adorned and purified our literature." (Everett.) " Cooper empliatically be- 
longs to the nation. He has left a space in our literature which cannot easily 
be supplied." (Irving.) "The creations of his genius shall sui-\'ive through 
centuries to come, and only perish with our language." (Bryant.) " We accord 
to Cooper an equal degree of talent and power with that ascribed to Scott, and 
would place the originality of the American author at a higher point. There is 
certainly in Cooper more power of concentration, a more epigrammatic style, and 
greater terseness of expression." {Eclectic Review.) 



324 Route 46. COOPERSTOWN. 

Tlie Toinb of Cooper is near the front of Christ Church (in which are 
brilliant naemorial windows), and is a plain horizontal slab inscribed with 
his name. " Let Cooper sleep with his kindred in the old churchyard, 
needing no sculptured monument to mark the pathway to his grave, 
deeply worn by hundreds of pilgrim feet year after year." Near the foot 
of the main street is the site of the old Cooper mansion, Otsego Hall, 
which was burnt in 1854. Lakewood Cemetery is 1 M. distant (E. side 
of the lake), and contains the Cooper monument (by Launitz; of Italian 
marble ; 25 ft. high), which is surmounted by a statue of the legendary 
hunter Leathei'stocking, " a man who had the simplicity of a woodsman, 
the heroism of a savage, the faith of a Christian, and the feeling of a poet." 

" But dearer than all, in liis gentle simplicity, honest-hearted Natty, the greatest 
creation of Cooper's jien, haunts the lake and woods around, hunting the deer 
with dog and gun, the kindliest si)irit of the band. Sometimes, as the Deer- 
slayer, he is seen near the Fairy Spring, his grave, youthful face unmoved by the 
beauty of Judith Hutter, that alluring Lady of the Lake whose dark eyes fasci- 
nate us even from the written page, and make us wonder at the severity of this 
forest Galahad. Then, as Leatherstocking, the mighty hunter, advanced in-years, 
Ymt honest-hearted still, he is sometimes visible, coming down from the cave that 
bears his name, gliding in his canoe across Blackbird Bay, or crossing the Vision 
in haste to rescue from the panther's cruel claws the fair form of Elizabeth 

Temple The old trapper, with his white hairs and trembUng steps, has 

returned to the Haunted Lake, and at early daAvn his bowed figure appears at 
rare intervals standing on Otsego Rock, shading his eyes from the burning sun, 
and gazing over the Glimmerglass, the scene of his youthful exjiloits, with earnest 
interest. Dear old Natty, —faithful, kindly wraith !" 

Hannah's Hill (named for Cooper's daughter) is about 1\ M. from the 
village (W. shore), and commands a view of which the great novelist 
says, "■ 1 have seldom looked upon a more bewitching scene. The lakes 
of Cumberland will scarce compete with this." Mt. Vision is nearly 2 
M. from the village (E. shore), and overlooks the lake and its diversified 
shores. The best view is obtained from the arbor on Prospeet Rock, al- 
though the summit of the mt. commands the rugged Black Hills in the 
S. Leatherstocking' s Cave is 1^ M. from the village (E. shore), and the 
Leatherstocking Falls are on the same side, at the head of a ravine near 
the lake (frequently visited by boat). These falls are also called the 
Panther's Leap, in allusion to an old tradition. The Council Rock is near 
the outlet, a few rods from the shore, and is a round-topped bowlder 
about 4 ft. high. " At a small round rock near the foot of the lake, 
where .... the tribes are given to resorting to make their treaties and 
bury their hatchets. Tliis rock have I often heard the Delawares men- 
tion." The Mohegan Glen is 3 M. distant (near Wild Rose Point), and 
contains several small cascades. Among the usual drives are Hartwick 
Seminary and Lakes (5 M.), Bear Cliff Falls (3 M.), the Beaver Meadow 
(7 M.), and the Westford and Pierstown Hills. Rum Hill, 7 M. distant, 
commands a prospect of over 60 M. Highways lead to Cherry Valley (13 
M.), Richfield Springs (12-15 M.), and Sharon Springs (20 M.). 



OTSEGO LAKE. Route 46. 325 

Otsego Lake. 

" O Haunted Lake, from out whose silver fountains 
The mighty Susquehanna takes its rise ; 
O Haunted Lake, among the pine-clad mountains. 
Forever smiling upward to the skies, — 

" A master's hand hath painted all thy beauties ; 
A master's mind hath peopled all thy shore 
■With wraiths of mighty hunters and fair maidens, 
Hunting thy forest-glades forevermore." 

" The magic of his genius lingers around the lake he so lovingly described. Its 
points and baj'^s are haunted, and its forests are peopled with wraiths and shades. 
A listener under the trees on a dreamy summer day will hear the low, musical 
laugh of Wah-ta-wah, the gentle Indian maiden, and catch a glimpse of the young 
chieftain, her lover, in the distance through the forest arches. Sometimes, at 
dusk, the camp-fires of the Iroquois gleam from the gravelly points of the E. sliore : 
and off Hyde Bay, where the rushes wave on the shoal, the dim outline of Muskrat 
Castle can still be traced ; and the faint strains of an old-time hymn are heard 
strangely sweet over the water, — the even-song of innocent Hetty at her mother's 
grave. On a moonlight night the solitary oarsman is startled by the flapping of 
unseen canvas ; and silently appearing from the realms of nowhere, the ark glides 
slowly into view, old Hutter at the helm, and the gigantic form of Harrj' Hurry 
lounging in the doorway." 

"A broad sheet of water, so placid and limpid that it resembled a bed of the 

pure mt. atmosphere compressed into a setting of hills and woods Nothing 

is wanted but ruined castles and recollections to raise it to the level of the 
scenery of the Rhine." (Cooper.) "AwayW. stretched the calm plane of the 
Otsego, narrow like a river ; . . . . beautiful, uncommonly beautiful mt. shores 
shutting it in, and the slopes on the far side charmingly pictured with cultiva- 
tion. A lake's mirror was never set in a prettier cncadrement by the frame-making 
eddies of the retiring deluge, and .... its entire regilding by the sunsets is 
visible from every quarter of the town. The path of the eye from Cooperstown is 
up a 9 M. reach of wooded water." (N. P. Willis.) 

Otsego Lake is 9 M. long by 1 - 1^ M. wide, and is bounded by lofty 
hill ranges, reaching to the height of 4 - 600 ft. on the E. shore. The 
steamboats Pioneer and Satty Bumppo make several trips daily, con- 
necting, at the head of the lake, with stages for Cherry Valley and Rich- 
held Springs (7 M. ; see page 247). As the boat moves out, Hannah's 
Hill is seen on the W. (1.), and Mt. Vision on the r., along whose base are 
the estates of Lakelands and Bowers, the Lakewood Cemetery and monu- 
ment, and the picturesque Chalet, where Cooper spent his later years. 
Here is the landing for Leatherstocking's Cave, and above (2 M. from 
Cooperstown) is Point Judith. On the W. shore are seen Blackbird Bay, 
the estate of the late Judge Nelson, of the U. S. Supreme Court, and the 
groves on Brookwood Point (2 M.). Wild Rose (or 3 M.) Point is on the 
W., and is a resort for boat-parties {Thayer's Hotel). Tunicliff's (5 M.) 
Point is now seen with its summer hotel, nearly opposite the Dugway, or 
Deer Brook. Mt. Wellington, or the Sleeping Lion (so called from its 
form), is now seen looming in advance. This hill is often ascended by 
tourists for its broad oif-look. Passing Gravelly Point (E. ; 6 M. ) and the 
site of Muskrat Castle (W. ; 1\ M.), the steamer soon reaches the head of 
the lake. 

The village of Springfield is 1 M. distant, and a pleasant road leads 



326 Route 46. SHARON SPRINGS. 

across the town of Warren, by the Twin Lakes (called by the Indians, 
Waiontha) to Richfield Springs (see page 247). 



Beyond Colliers the line leaves the Susquehanna and enters the narrow 
Schenevus Valley, remarkable for its ancient river-terraces. Stations, 
Maryland^ Schenevus (stages to Davenport and Bloomville, in the Char- 
lotte Valley), and Worcester (Knapp's Hotel), a busy village among the 
hills. E. Worcester and Richmoudville are now passed, and the water- 
shed between the Mohawk and Susquehanna is crossed. Cobleskill 
(Blodget Hoitse ; National Hotel) is a prosperous hamlet, 900 ft. above 
the sea, with several factories. Fort du Bois was built here during the 
Revolution, and an American force was defeated (m 1778) by Mohawks 
under the chieftain Brant, with serious loss. 

A branch railroad runs N. from Cobleskill by Sharon Springs to Cherry 
Valley (23 M.). ascending the Westkill Valley and passing the stations of 
Hj^idsville and Seward, in the hilly uplands of Schoharia County. This 
region was settled, about the middle of the last century, by frugal and 
industrious Palatinate Germans. 

Sharon Springs. 

Hotels. — * Pavilion, on the hill over the village, $4.50 a day (600 guests); 
* Congress Hall (400 guests) and * Union Hall (300 guests), at the Springs. The 
two latter have a German cuisine and. patronage, and charge $4 a daj'(.'S25aweek). 
Mansion House, new in 1873, 75 guests, $ 14 a week ; United States (150 guests); 
Sharon i American ; Rowland ; and several suTumer boarding-houses. At Rock- 
ville, J M.from the Springs, are 2 large and inexpensive hotels (§10-15 a week; 
free carriage to tlie Springs). 

Railroad to Albany in 59 M. ; New York, 201 M. ; Philadelphia, 320 M. ; Cherry 
Valley, 9 M. Stages run daily to Palatine Bridge, on the N. Y. Central R. R. (9 
M. N. ; fare, $1.50). Stages await the arrival of all trains at the Springs station. 

Sharon Springs is situated in a naiTOw upland valley surrounded by 
high hills, about 1 M. from the railroad. It is the favorite summer re- 
sort of the German citizens of the Republic, and has been called " the 
Baden Baden of America." In 1781 a sharp action occurred 2 M. E. of 
the Springs between 300 Tories and Indians (encumbered with plunder 
and prisoners) and an American force under Col. Willett, in which the 
former were routed with severe loss. Tlie town was named after Sharon, 
Conn., and the Springs village was incorporated in 1872. The springs 
are situated near the base of a high Avooded bluft' W. of the village, and 
flow into a small stream below, depositing a crust of white and flocculent 
sulphur. There are 4 mineral springs, — chalybeate, magnesia, white 
sulphur, and blue sulphur, — and a copious fountain of pure water opens 
above. Below Congress Hall, Brimstone Brook is crossed by an orna- 
mental rustic bridge which leads into Congress Park, which is laid out 
in walks among the trees on the hillside. Near the centre cff the Park is a 
graceful domed canopy, supported by 18 fluted Corinthian columns of iron. 



CHERRY VALLEY. Route 46. 327 

over the Magnesia Spring (in each gallon, 31 grains of bi-carbonate of 
magnesia, 23 of sulphate of magnesia, 76 of sulphate of lime, and 3 J cubic 
inches of sulphuretted hydrogen), A short distance beyond is the Gard- 
ner Magnesi-a Spring (in each gallon, 20 grains of sulphate of magnesia, 
94 of sulphate of lime, etc.). The White Sulphur Spring contains in 
each gallon, 85 grains of sulphate of lime, 34 of sulphate of magnesia, 24 
of bi-carbonate of magnesia, and 21 cubic inches of sulphuretted hydrogen. 
The waters are free to those Avho wish to drink, and the Magnesia Spring 
is a valuable remedial agent; but the specialty of the place is its sulphur- 
baths, for which there are large bath-houses at and below Congress Hall 
(160 in number ; 40c. a bath). The usual hour for bathing is between 11 
and 12 a. m. The waters are held to be efficacious in diseases of the 
blood, skin, and liver, and in rheumatic and neuralgic affections. Since 
the year 1830, when these springs became known beyond the town, the 
number of visitors has steadily increased, imtil it now amounts to over 
10,000 a year. Below the Swiss cottage at the N. end of the Park are 
the houses where the singular Pine Needle baths are given. Tliey are 
tonic in effect, and are used for nervous and pulmonary complaints, par- 
alysis, scrofula, and neuralgia. They are prepared by adding to the mag- 
nesia water a portion of the extract of pine (from the German Black 
Forest), and their effect is agreeable. The administration of mud-baths 
(for rheumatics) was commenced in 1873. The patient is covered to the 
chin with mud impregnated with sulphur and heated to about 110 de- 
grees. 

In this vicinity are grottos in which are found stalactites and beautiful 
crystals of sulphate of lime. From the hill on which the Pavilion is situ- 
ated is obtained an extensive * view, embracing the broad and populous 
Mohawk Valley, with the Adirondacks beyond and the Green Mts. in the 
remote distance. A favorite drive is that to Prospect Hill (3 M. ), from 
which another and yet broader prospect is gained. Visitors also drive to 
Cherry Valley (7-8 M.) and N. to Palatine Bridge (9 M.). 

Cherry Valley {Park Hotel, open in summer only; Palmer House) is 
9 M, from Sharon by R. R., and is favorably situate<l at the head of the 
Valley. It has become a summer resort by reason of its romantic scen- 
ery and pure air, and is famed for its cultivated society. Just S. of the 
Park Hotel is the site of the old fort and the grave of the massacred vil- 
lagers. A monument has been erected to their memory. About 2 M. N. 
are the Tekaharatoa Falls, where a brook from the hills falls 160 ft. Mt. 
Independence is S. E. of the centre of the town, and rises 1,000 ft. above 
the plateau and 2,000 ft. above the sea. Along the N. W. is a line of 
rugged highlands, near which is a cluster of salt springs. The Cherry 
Valley White Sulphur Springs (Grand Hotel, 1 3 a day, $ 14 - 20 a week) 
are 1^ M. from the village, and resemble the waters of Teplitz, in Hun- 



328 Route 46. HOWE'S CAVE. 

gary. They are surrounded by ornamental grounds, and there are also 
chalybeate and magnesia springs near by. It is 6 M. thence to Sharon 
Springs, 12 M. to Richfield, and 4 M. to Otsego Lake (see page 325). Stages 
run from Cherry Valley to Fort Plain, Cooperstown, and Milford ; and a 
railroad is to be built to Richfield Springs, 16 M. W. 



* Howe's Cave {Cave House) is 5 M. beyond Cobleskill, on the main 
line. It is also called the Otsgaragee Cavern, and was discovered by 
Lester Howe in 1842. It is claimed that he penetrated to the distance 
of 11 M., but the usual route of visitors only extends for 2>\ M. from the 
entrance. During the summer the cave is frequently lighted with gas as 
far as the lake. Guides accompany visitors, each of whom pays $1.50. 
The temperature is 60", and the air is pure and dry, benefiting lung com- 
plaints. Many thousand visitors enter the cave every year, and it is only 
excelled by the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. The entrance is 50 ft. 
above the valley, and the rock chambers known as the Reception Room, 
Washington Hall, the Bridal Chamber, and the Cliapel are traversed in 
succession. The Harlequin Tunnel is then passed through, beyond which 
are the Cataract Hall, Ghost Room, and Music Hall. The Stygian Lake 
is 30 X 20 ft. (10 ft. deep), and is illuminated with fantastic effect by a 
cluster of gas-jets. Large stalagmites are found above and below the 
lake, and the passage has been cut out at much expense. Crossing the 
lake to Plymoutli Rock in a small boat, the path follows a small brook, 
and traverses the chambers and passages known as the Devil's Gateway, 
Museum, Geological Room, Uncle Tom's Cabin, Giant's Study, Pirate's 
Cave, Rocky Mts., and Valley of Jehosaphat. Then the Winding Way 
is followed to the Rotunda,, which is at present the limit of the incursion. 
Stalactites and other singular geological formations are found in these 
halls and passages, and imaginative visitors have named several of the 
stalagmites for the objects which they are thought to resemble. 

3 M. from Howe's Cave is the Central Bridge station (2 inns), whence 
the Schoharie Valley R. R. runs S. to Schoharie (5 M.) and Middleburgh, 
Schoharie ( Wood's Hotel ; Parrott House) is the capital of Schoharie 
County, and is situated in a fertile valley among high hills. It has 1,500 
inhabitants and 3 churches. The town was settled by Palatinate Germans 
in 1711, and in 1777 the Lower Fort was established here. The stone 
church (built in 1772) was surroimded by a high stockade, and was fur- 
nished with military supplies. The building still stands, and many of 
its stones are carved with the names of the builders. There are several 
remarkable caves near Schoharie. BalVs Cave (4 M. E.) is 100 ft. below 
the surface, and is visited in boats which are rowed on a subterranean 
stream. Nothaway's Cave is 2 M. S. E. Stages run from the village to 



HELDERBERG MTS. Route 4G. 329 

Gallup ville. Middlehurgh (Atchinson House ; Freemyer's) is 5 M. be- 
yond Schoharie, and is a large village among rugged hills. It occupies 
the site of the old Palatine village of Weisersdorf, one of the 7 cIot/s or 
villages of the Rhenish Germans in this valley. The original OAvners of 
the land were the Schoharie clan of the Six Nations. Several sharp 
skirmishes took pLace hereabouts during the Revolution; and many of 
the rustics became Tories, and moved to Canada at the close of the war. 
Stages run from Middleburgh to several of the hamlets among the Western 
Catskills (Durham, Prattsville, Gilboa, etc.), and to N. Blenheim, which 
is near UtsyantMa Lake, a mountain loch 1,800 ft. higli, where the Dela- 
ware River takes its rise. 

Beyond Central Bridge the main line passes the village of Esperance, 
and reaches Quaker Street station, whence a branch railroad diverges to 
the N. E., descends into the Mohawk Valley, crosses the river and the N. 
Y. Central R. R. at Schenectady, and runs to Ballston and Saratoga. 
Through passengers for Saratoga take this route and avoid the long detour 
to Albany. Tlie road to Albany now i-uns nearly E., and soon enters the 
valley of Norman's Kill, on the N. of the rugged Helderberg Mts. Sta- 
tions, Duanesburgh, Knowersville, and Guilderland, above which the 
bold palisaded sides of the Helderberg Mts. rise to a height of over 800 ft. 
The Helderbergs (" clear mts.," from their broad prospects) attain an ele- 
vation of 1,200 ft. above the sea, and are remarkable for their precipitous 
E. slopes. They are an outlying group of the Catskill system, and occupy 
all the W. part of Albany Coanty. Station, New Scotland, near Lawsnn's 
Lake, whose outlet runs for J M. underground, through a cavern abound- 
ing in stalactites and populated by bats. Near this point are several siiik- 
holes5-8 ft. wide and 12-20 ft. deep, connected by a roomy cavern 
which was formerly a smuggler's resort and depository. Near Clarksville, 
a hamlet at the foot of the Helderbergs, are 2 caves, respectively ^ M.and 
^ M. long. The line now descends by the impetuous Norman's Kill, 
passes the stations of Slingerlands and Adamsville, and approaches the 
Hudson River. The imposing Academy of the Sacred Heart is seen on 
the L; and after traversing the long S. suburbs, the train stops at the 
station in Albany (see page 85). 

Albany to Saratoga and Montreal, see page 93. 



330 Route 47. READING R. R. 

47. Philadelphia to Reading and WiUiamsport. The 
Schuylkill Coal-Fields. 

By the Phila. & Re;ulin>^ K. R., ;ui iiiipoi-tant trunk line over which immense 
quantities of coal are transported. Numerous brandies diverj,'e from tlie line on 
either side, especially among the carboniferous hills of Sclmylkill County. The 
Schuylkill River is followed for nearly 100 M., and for a great portion of the way 
Icads'through a rich and pleasant rural district. Beyond" the Germanic county of 
Berks, a hilly and rugged region is traversed to the valleys of the Lackawanna 
and Susquehanna Rivers. This route is also available for travellers bound to the 
Penn. oil-regions, and to W. Penn. and N. Y. (by its connections with the Phila. 
& Erie R. R. and the N. Central R. R. ). Tickets and information respecting the 
route may be obtained in Phila. at 024 Cliestnut St., S. E. corner of Sth and^ 
Chestnut Sts., and the corner of 9th and Chestnut Sts. ; also at the terminal sta-* 
tion, corner of 13th and Callowhill Sts. 

Stations. — Philadelphia ; Belmont, 3.V M. : W. Falls, 5 ; Pencovd, 6J ; W. 
Jlanayuuk Ih ; W. Mill Creek, 9^ ; W. Spring Mill, 12 ; W. Conshohocken, 13^ ; 
Sweiie Furnace, 15 ; Bridgeport (Norristown), 17 {Cliester Valley R. 11. to Hende'r- 
son, 19 ; King of Prussia, 20i : Centreville, 23 ; Gardens, 24 ; Howellville, 2oA ; 
Paoli Road, 26^; Cedar Hollow, 27; Mill Lane, 30; Exton, 33; Oakland, 35; 
Downington, 38^); Merion, 19; Port Kennedy, 21^; Valley Forge, 23i ; Perkio- 
nien Junction, 25 {Perkiometi It. 11. to Doe Run, 2Si ; CoUegeville, 31 ; Rahn's, 32* : 
Schwenksvillc, 30 ; Salford, 39 ; Green Lane, 43 ; Welker's, 40 ; Pennsburg, 48) ; 
Phoenixville, 27^ {Plckeriii'j Valley R. R. to Kimberton, 31}; Chester Springs, 35; 
Byers, 38^) ; Mingo, liOh ; Royer's Ford, 32 ; Limerick, 34 ; Pottstowu, 40 (Cole- 
Vrookdale R R. to Glasgow, 42 ; Manatawny, 44 ; Colebrookdale, 47 ; Bechtcls- 
ville, 52 ; Mt. Pleasant, 53^) ; Douglassville, 44^ ; Monocacy, 47i ; Birdsboro', 
49 ; Exeter, 52 ; Neversink, 54 ; Reading, 58 (crossing of Allentown Line, to New 
York, 128 M. ; to Hanisburgh, 54 M. — from Rending) ; Tuckerton, 63 ; Leesjiort, 
66; Mohrsville, 08^; Hamburg, 75; Port Clinton, 78 (Pottsville, etc., see jiage 
334) ; Drehersville, S3 ; Ringgold, 88 ; Reynold's, 93 ; Tamaqua, 98 ; E. Mahanoy 
Junction, 103.V. Catawissa R. R. — Tamanend. lOOj ; Quakake, 107 ; Summit. 110 ; 
Girard, 114; Mahanoy, 118J ; Ringtown, 123; Beaver, 131 ; McAuley, 136; Main- 
ville. 138i ; Catawissa, 145 ; Rupert. 147 ; Danville, 154i ; Mooi-sburg, 101 ; Potts- 
gj-ove, IGO : ])ougal, 109 ; Mibon, 170 ; While Deer, 175 ; Allenwood, 177 ; Mont- 
gomery, 181^ ; Muncy, 186|^ ; Hall's, 189^ ; Montoursville, 195 ; WiUiamsport, 199. 

The Noi-ristown R. K. leaves the station at the coi'ner of 9th and Greene Sts., 
Phila., and runs N. W. through the city. Just beyond Broad St. the Connecting 
R. R. is crossed and the Germantown Branch diverges to the r., while the Norris- 
town ti-ain passes on to Wissahickon stiition, near the Wissahickon Creek (see 
page 284). The line now follows the Schuylkill through the manufacturing 
suburb ofManayunk, with W. Laurel Hill and Pencoyd on the opposite shore. 
The river is kept in sight until Norristown is reached. 

The Reading train leaves the terminal station at the corner of Broad 
and Callowhill Sts., and soon passes Fairmouut and Lemon Hill and en- 
ters Fairmount Park. Pleasing views are afforded of the great garden of 
Phila., as the track passes Fountain Green and Mt. Pleasant and crosses 
the Schuylkill on a neat bridge. Several park-trains are run daily, stop- 
ping at Coates St. (Fairmount), Brown St. (Lemon Hill), Thompson St. 
(Girard Ave. Bridge), IMifflin Lane, E. end of Schuylkill Bridge, and Bel- 
mont (see page 283). The curves of the river are now followed, and the 
coal-branch R. R. is seen crossing on a fine viaduct. Beyond the mouth 
of the Wissahickon (N. shore), Pencoyd is reached, near the W. Laurel 
Hill Cemetery. On the opposite shore are the great factories of Mana- 
yunk, and thriving handets are seen on either side as the train speeds on 



VALLEY FORGE. Route 47. 331 

into Montgomery County. ConshoJwcken is a manufacturing borough of 
over 3,000 inhabitants, vvitli a branch R. R. running N. E. to Oredale, on 
the N. Penn. R. R. From Bridgej^ort a fine view is afforded of Norris- 
town ( Be Kalh House ; Exchange), on • the opposite shore. It is a 
borough of 10,753 inhabitants, with 13 churches and 4 newspapers, and 
contains the stately marble Court House of Montgomery County. Ou 
the heights to the S. are seen the fine buildings of 2 large academies. 
Near the Court House is a monument in honor of the soldiers of the 
county who fell in the Secession War. The situation of Norristown is 
very pleasant, and its streets are neat and well built. The manufactures 
here are of considerable importance, and are assisted by the water-power 
of the Schuylkill Canal. Tlie town occupies the site of the ancient 
Swedes' Ford, and was named in honor of Isaac Norris, who bought the 
land ivoTCi William Penn. It was owned by John Bull, an ardent Ameri- 
can gentleman, hi 1777; and the British army destroyed his house and 
laid waste the estate. 

The diester Valley R. R. nnis 22 M. S. W. up the Great Valley, through a fertile 
limestone region abounding in fine old farms, and with a tall and wall-like ridge 
of nits, on the r. The line terminates at Downington, on the Penn. R. R. 

7 M. beyond Bridgeport the Reading train reaches Valley Forge, where, 
just beyond the station (in the valley to the 1.), is seen the ancient farm- 
house which was used as Washington's head-quarters during the darkest 
months of the Revolution, 

After the repulse at German town, and while the British troops were comfort- 
ably quartered in Phila., Washington led his broken army to Valley Forge, and 
on Dec. 18. 1777, began the construction of winter-quarters. Here the famished 
and half-elad Continentals remained for 6 months, suffering the horrors of a 
rigorous winter, and menaced by the powerful Anglo-German army of 20,000 men 
at Phila. The American forces numbered 11,000 men, and occupied lines of huts 
on the hills to the S. and E., along the r. bank of the Schuylkill, jirotected by 
powerful earthworks whose remains are still visible. Here Baron Steuben gave 
the soldiers that rigid Prussian discipline which enabled them to rival the steadi- 
ness and flexibility of the British infantry ; and here developed and failed the 
cabal of several generals designing to depose Washington from his command. 
Meantime the noble Virginian bore witness : " Naked and starving as they are, 
we cannot enough admire the incomparable patience and fidelity of the soldiery, 
that they have not been ere this excited by their sufferings to a general mutiny 
and desertion." " Valley Forge ! How dear to the true worshipper at the shrine 
of Freedom is the name of Valley Forge ! . . . . And if there is a spot on the 
face of our broad land whereon Patriotism should delight to pile its highest and 
most venerated monument, it should be in the bosom of that little vale on the 
bank of the Schuylkill." (Lossing.) 

1 M. beyond Valley Forge is Perkiomen Junction, Avhence the Perki- 
omen R. R. diverges to the r., crossing the Schuylkill, and runs 23 M. 
N., through the rural towns of Montgomery County, to the hamlet of 
Pennshurg. The Reading train passes on to Fhoenixville, whose many 
houses and smoking chimneys are seen to the 1. This flourishing borough 
has about 7,000 inhabitants, and is noted for its manufactures of iron, 
machinery, and cotton. The Phoenix Iron Works are the largest in the 



332 Route 47. READING. 

Kepiiblic, and have immense rolling-mills. At those works the donife of 
the U. S. Capitol was made. Copper and iron mines are found in this 
vicinity, and the suiTOunding country is fertile and prolific. The Picker- 
ing Valley R. R. runs thence S. W. by several small hamlets of Chester 
County, passing near the Yellow Springs, which was a favorite and' 
fashionable summer resort many years ago. Bej^ond Phoenixville the 
main line traverses a tunnel 2,000 ft. long, cut through the solid rock, 
and crosses the Schuylkill on a high bridge. Station, Pottfitown {Mer- 
c/mnts' Hotel), a thriving borough of 4,125 inhabitants, favorably situated 
on a rich river-side plain, and surrounded by arable hills. The houses 
are mostly on one long broad street, which is adorned with shade-trees ; 
and in the S. part of the village is the Cottage Seminary. To the W. is 
the old stone mansion of John Potts, who founded this place before the 
Revolution. The Colebrookdale R. R. runs thence 14 M. N. to Mt. 
Pleasant. Tlie Reading train crosses the Manatawny Creek on a bridge 
1,071 ft. long, and traverses a fertile and blooming country-side. Stations, 
Douglas, S. of the bold Manokesy Hill ; Birdshord', whence the Wil- 
mington k Reading R. R. runs S. E. 64 M. to Wilmington, Del.; and 
Exeter. 

Reading {* Mansion House, .$3 a day; Keystone; American; Mish- 
ler's ; — all on Penn Square) is the capital of Berks County, and is finely 
sitiiated on a narrow plain between the Schuylkill River and an amphi- 
theatre of bold hills, the chief of which is Penn's Moimt. The height 
and salubrity of the location and the picturesque and fruitful environs 
have caused Reading to be much visited in summer. It has 38,156 in- 
habitants, with 30 churches, 4 banks, and 3 daily and 8 weekly papers. 
There are also 14 societies of Masons, 8 of Odd Fellows, 8 of Knights of 
Pythias, 4 tribes of Red Men, 8 councils of United American Mechanics, 
11 circles of the Brotherhood of the Union, and 7 lodges of the Harugari, 
a German order whose official paper is published here. Reading is the 
tliird city in Penn. in manufactures, and is one of the chief centres of 
the iron-trade. Immense furnaces, rolling-mills, brass and steel works, 
and other similar industries are located here. The Reading R. R. shops 
employ 2,800 men, to whom is paid $1,200,000 yearly. Much of the 
iron used here is mined at Penn's Mount. Reading also derives impor- 
tance from its central position in the rich farming county of Berks, whose 
population is chiefly of Germanic origin. The city is compactly and 
neatly built, and its principal streets intersect at the broad plaza called 
Penn Square, on which are the chief hotels and stores. On N. 6th St., 
beyond the Post-Office, is the Court House, a large building with a portico 
sustained by 6 columns of red sandstone. Near tins point is the antique 
Trinity Church of the German Lutherans, with a spire 210 ft. high. 
Christ Catliedral (Episcopal) is an imposing Gothic building of red sand- 



READING. Route 47. 333 

stone (on N. 5lh St. ), with a spire 202 ft. high. There is a large public 
library near the City Hall, a neat building at the corner of S. 5th and 
Franklin Sts. On N. 3d St is the German resort known as Lauer's Park, 
and in the N. part of the city is the extensive burying-ground called the 
Charles Evans Cemetery. The Schuylkill River bounds the city on the 
W., antl is crossed by 3 highway-bridges. The Grand Opera House and 
Mishler's Academy of Music are capacious halls where the citizens attend 
evening amusements. Penn St. leads E. from Penn Square to the sturdy 
and mediseval-looking structure of the County Prison, near the basins of 
the city water-works, which are neatly terraced and surrounded with 
flowers. Beyond the prison the Hill Road ascends Penn's Mount by 
easy grades, 1| M. from Penn Square, and 1,000 ft. above the river, is 
White Spot, a favorite resort of the citizens, commanding a beautiful 
view of Reading and the long valley, with the Blue Mts. in the distance. 
The White House Hotel is IJ M. S. of the city, and 300 ft. above the 
river, on a spur of the Neversink Mt. ; and 1 M. N. is the pleasant 
summer hotel called Andalusia Hall. 1\ M. E. of Reading is a much- 
visited mineral spring. There are also pleasant drives among the hills 
of Cumru and Brecknock, to the S. (passing the Wliite Hall, Green Tree, 
and Sorrel Horse Inns); also to the N. E., among the narrow limestone 
valleys and under the lofty ridges of Alsace; and to the S. E., on the 
Morgantown road, toward Welsh Mt. 

Reading was laid out and founded in 1748 by Thomas and Richard Penn, the 
proprietaries of the Province. The Jalir-Markts (yearly markets) which were 
held here in June and October were for many years the chief festivals of the 
county. The rural population of this district (as well as that of the other Penn. 
counties S. E. of tlie AUeylianies) is largely composed of the descendants of the 
early German immigrants from the valleys of the Rhine and the Neckar, and the 
customs and architecture of those ancient lands are preserved here. They speak 
the dialect caUed " Peun. Dutch," which is the S. German language, enriched by 
English words and local idioms. A few of llieui know uotliing of the Englisu 
l.uiguage, and the traders who travel here find a knowledge of the Dutch nearly 
;i3 important as tlie English. The Penn. Dutch has its newspapers and maga- 
zines, books and schools ; though it is true that these people are very indifferent 
to literary culture, and while generally wealthy and industrious, are ignorant and 
unprogressive. They are devoted to their own ways and manners, religions, and 
hereditary trades, and but rarely intermarry with the Americans who live among 
tliem. The Penus expressed fears lest their land should become " a German 
province," but were unable to stay the tide of Teutonic immigration ; and the 
I'enu. Dutch numbered 100,000 in 1742, and 280,000 in 1763. The great Germanic 
immigration began about 1708, when thousands of Palatinate citizens came to 
Pennsylvania. Many of these were sold on their arrival, to pay for their passage 
across the ocean, and were thence known as "redemptioners." Much opposition 
was aroused against the swarms of new-comers ; and the Provincial Secretary 
declared that " tliey come in in crowds, and as bold, indigent strangers from 
Germany, where many of them have been soldiers ; all these go in the best vacant 
ti'acts, and seize upon them as places of common spoil." 

Reading is an important station on the Schuylkill Canal, and the Union Canal 
here diverges to Middletown, on the Susquehanna River. The AUentown Line 
(see Route 36) from New York to Harrisburg passes this jioint, intei'secting the 
Phila. & Reading R. R. ; and the Berl:s County R. R. is built S. E. to Birdsboro'. 
Stages run to Poyertown, Friedensbnrg, Straustown, and Bernville. The Wil- 
mington & Reading R. R. (Route 49) runs S. E. 73 M. to Wilmington, Del. ; and 
the Reading & Columbia R. R. (Route 48) runs S. W. 45 M. to Columbia. 



334 Rmde 47. POTTSVILLE. 

The train runs N. from Reading, and soon crosses the Schuylkill, which 
is followed for many leagues. The Blue Mt. fills all the foreground with 
its great ridges; and the borough of Hamburg (1,600 inhabitants) is 
passed near its foot. Port Clinton is reached after traversing a pictur- 
esque mt. pass, and here diverges the Little Schuylkill R. R. (for Tama- 
qua) from the main line for Auburn and Pottsville. 



The Schuylkill & SiisiinelMnna R. R. runs S. W. from Auburn. Stations. — 
Auburn; Summit, 7 M. ; White Horse, 12 ; Pine Grove, 18 ; EUwood, 24 ; Rausch 
Gap, 'M ; Cold Spring, 33 ; Yellow Spring, 35 ; Rattling Run, 38 ; Forge, 46 ; 
Dauphin, 51 ; Roekville, 54 (Harrisburg 59). 

The country which is traversed by this line is thinly settled, and con- 
sists of a long and narrow valley between lofty and continuous mt. chains. 
20 min. after leaving Auburn the water-shed is crossed at Summit station, 
and the line descends into the Swatara Valley. The tall ridge of the Blue 
Mt. is on the 1., and at Pine Grove the line intersects the Lebanon k 
Tremont R. R., which runs S. W. through the Swatara Gap to Lebanon 
(see page 253), and to the N. traverses the defiles of the Second and Sharp 
Mts., and enters the coal-mining district about Lorberry and Donaldson." 
Its terminus is at Brookside, beyond Tower City, whence splendid views 
are enjoyed. The S. & S. train now runs S. W. in the deep trough be- 
tween the Second and Third Mts., through a solitary wilderness, with 
trackless ridges on either hand. The Susquehanna River is reached at 
Dauphin, 8 M. N. of Harrisburg. 

Beyond Aub\irn the Pottsville train passes on to Schuylkill Haven^ 
whence a coal-branch runs N. W. 13 M., by Mine Hill Gap to Glen Car- 
bon and Glen Dower. Passmg to the N. through the Sharp Mt., at Mt. 
Carbon is seen the large .summer hotel known as the Mansion House. 
Pottsvillo {Pennsylvania Hall, $2.50 a day; Merchants' Hotel ; Ameri- 
can) is a city of 14,516 inhabitants, with 6 banks and 19 churches (of 
which 4 are German and 3 are Welsh). This place is the head-quarters 
of the Schuylkill coal-district, and is the abiding-place of the chief opera- 
tors in the mining-stocks. It is also the seat of large and important 
manufactures, and owes its growth to the development of 50 years. Just 
to the S. is the gap in Sharp Mt., and the city is picturesquely located 
upon and about the steep hills near the Schuylkill. The great Schuylkill 
coal-field extends to the N., E. and W., and is traversed by numerous 
railroads which converge on the Phila. & Reading R. R. In each of the 
years 1871 - 73 there were over 5,000,000 tons of coal shipped from 
this district ; and the aggregate export since 1850 has been 87,700,000 
tons. Most of this immense product is moved East by the P. & R. R. R. 
and the Schuylkill Canal ; and 2,266,893 tons were shipped from Port 
Richmond (at Phila.) in 1873, of which 1,363,303 tons went to New 



TAMAQUA. Route 47. 335 

England. In 1872 - 73 the P. & R. R. R. carried over 10,000,000 tons of 
coal to the E. Pottsville is the capital of Schuylkill County, and is pic- 
turesquely sitiiated in the narrow A-alley between Mine Hill and Sharp Mt. 
Several railroads diverge hence to the great collieries to the N. and N. E, 
(Frackville, St. Clair, Port Carbon, etc. ), crossing Broad Mt. and inter- 
secting the system of tracks which traverse the defiles below Mahanoy 
Mt. The ML Link cfc Schmjlkill Valley R. R. (3 trains daily) runs N. 
E. 18 M. to Tamaqua, passing several large collieries and the important 
borough of Port Carbon, the seat of the Schuylkill Iron Works. This 
line follows Shai'p Mt. (on the r. ) up the naiTowing valley; and at Tus- 
carora the Locust Mt. is seen on the 1., and is followed to Tamaqua. 



At Port Clinton the through train passes on to the rails of the Little 
Schuylkill R. R., and traverses a rugged and uninhabited region. The 
Blue Mt. is followed (on the r.) for 6 M., and then the Second Mt. is ap- 
proached on the 1. Beyond Hecla the Wild Cat Mt. looms on the 1., and 
the Mauch Chunk Mt. is seen on the r. Tamaqua {Mansion House) is 
an important borough of 6,000 mhal)itants, with a large coal-trade, and is 
connected by railroad with Mauch Chunk (see page 307). The tracks of 
the Reading R. R. in this section of the county intersect and connect with 
those of the Lehigh Valley R. R. (see page 311). 

Tlie Catainssa R. R. runs N. W. from Tamaqua, and is followed by 
the Williamsport train. At E. Mahanoy Junction tlie Mt. Link & S. V. R. 
R. is met; and the train ascends Locust Mt. on heavy grades (60 ft. to the 
M.). Views are given of the Quakake Valley, and beyond the tunnel at 
Summit station (1,400 ft. long) the Catawissa ("clear water") Valley is 
S3en for many miles. Stages run from Summit to Haaleton. The Cata- 
wissa Creek rises in the tunnel, and is folloAved by the railroad for 30 M. 
At Quakake a branch of the Lehigh Valley R. R. is intersected, and the 
coal-lands given by Stephen Girard to the city of Phila. are traversed. 
Opposite Girard Manor is Spring Mt., the highest point in E. Penn. Green 
Mt. on the r. and the N. Mahanoy Mt. on the 1. now attract the atten- 
tion ; and the city of Mahanoy is 4 M. S. of its station, among the high- 
lands (see page 311). Fine railroad-engineering works are now seen as^ 
the line approaches McAuley's Mt. ; and at Ringtoion the Catawissa is 
crossed on a bridge 1,210 ft. long and 135 ft. high. The irregular heights 
of Catawissa Mt. are now approached on the 1., and the scenery on the 
creek at Stranger Hollow is highly esteemed. The Nescopec Mts. now 
draw near on ther. ; and the line crosses the Long Hollow Bridge, 1,050 
ft. long and 125 ft. high (near Shiiman's); Fisher's Bridge, 755 ft. long 
and 124 ft. high (beautiful views of the valley); Mine Gap Bridge, 600ft. 
long and 103 ft. high ; and Mainville Bridge, 700 ft. long and 110 ft. high. 
From this latter bridge are obtained fine views of the quiet hamlet of 



33G Route 4S. EPHRATA. 

Maim-llle, the rich valley, the Nescopec Mts., and the Mainville Water 
Gap. Catawissa [Susqxiehanna House) is prettily situated at the con- 
fluence of tlie Catawissa Creek and the Susquehanna River, and is sur- 
rounded by fine scenery* From the adjacent bluffs are gained beautiful 
views, one of whi(;h Moran has painted for an autumnal landscape. The 
village was settled by the Friends at an early date, and has 1,200 inhabi- 
tants, 4 churches, several iron-works and machine-shops, and a lucrative 
local trade. At this point the Danville, Hazlcton k Wilkes-Barre R. R. 
is intersected ; and 2 M. beyond the Lackawanna & Bloomsburg R. R. is 
reached. The Susquehanna is crossed at Catawissa; and from Rupert 
station daily stages run to Bloomsburg and Orangeville. Montour's 
Ridge is seen on the r., and the train passes on to Danville {Montour 
House), a borough of 8,436 inhabitants, largely engaged in the iron-manu- 
facture. The Montour Iron Works make great quantities of railroad iron ; 
and there are 7 furnaces and 5 rolling-mills in the borough. Danville is 
the capital of Montour Coimty; and on an eminence in the vicinity are the 
spacious buildings of the Penn. Insane Asylum. S. Danville is a popu- 
lous village across the Susquehanna (N. Branch), and has the stately 
Grove mansion. The train now leaves the N. Branch of tlie Susquehanna, 
crosses Montour's Ridge and approaches the Mahanoy Mt. Beyond the 
fertile valley of Liberty it reaches Milton, on the Phila. & Erie R. R. and 
the Susquehanna River. 

Milton to W^illiamsport, see Route 55. 

48. Heading to Columbia. 

By the Reading & Columbia R. R. in 2^ hrs., crossing the fertile and populous 
county of Lancaster. 

Stations. — Reading ; Sinking Springs, 6 M. ; Fritztown, 8 ; Reinholdsville, 
12 ; Union, 15 ; Ephrata, 19 ; Millway, 23 ; Litiz, 27 ; Manheim, 32 ; Sellers, 33 ; 
Landisville, 36 ; Bruckharts, 39 ; Chestnut Hill, 41 ; Kauffman's, 42 ; Co- 
lumbia, 45. 

The Columbia train diverges from the Lebanon Valley line near the 

Heidelberg hills, and passes S. W. across E. Cocalico to Ephrata, near 

which, on the summit of the highlands, is the summer resort and hotel 

at the Ephrata Mt. Springs. In the village remains the ancient convent 

of Ephrata, with its quaint and barn-like buildings. 

Early in the last century a band of German Pietists came hither, and erected 
huts on an estate of 250 acres, where they lived in conventual retirement and 
discipline. Tracing the history of their fraternity from John the Baptist, and 
devoting themselves to lives of purity and diligence, the brethren endured an 
austere and arduous life with earnest devotion. In the time of the Prior Ones- 
imus a sisterhood was added to the order (under the Prioress Sister Marcella), 
and its operations were extended. The monastic dress was tlie white robe of the 
Cajjuchin friars, with cowls and sandals ; the diet was solely of vegetables ; and 
(liu-ing their .iourneys the brethren walked in single file, with eyes cast down, and 
without speaking. They celebrated the Euoharist at night, washing each other's 
feet ; attended Divine service 4 times daily ; and covered their faces with cowls 
when beyond the walls. There were 36 monies in the Zion cloister, and 35 nims 



LITIZ. Route 49. 337 

in the Kedar cloister, and their sweet and peculiar singing resembled " the ^olian 
harp harmonized." Miicli time was spent in illuminating MSS. ; and a printing- 
press was set up in the c()n\-e.nt, after which it became a great centre of light in 
the province. The entire fraternity was deported to Lancaster jail for nonpayment 
of taxes, but were released, and gave saintly service to the great army hospitals 
at Ephrata (150 Continental soldiers were buried on Mt. Zion). The Western 
settlers were all driven in on this place during the Revolution, and were defended 
by a detachment from the army. The founder of the order is buried luider a 
stone which is iuscribed : " Here rests a Birth of the love of God, Peaceful, a 
Solitary, but who afterwards became a Superintendent of the Solitary Community 
of Christ in and around Ephrata ; born at Oberbach, in the Palatinate, and nameil 
Conrad Beissel. He fell asleep the sixth of July, a. d. 1768 ; of his spiritual life 
the 52d, but of his natural one, 77 years and 4 months." The cloisters stand near 
the banks of the Cocalico River, and are now nearly deserted ; but the people of 
Ephrata are of the same sect, and are " remarkable for the purity of their lives, 
the simplicity of their manners, and the fervor of their devotion." The quaint 
old volume (printed here) called the Chronicon Ephratense gives their early history ; 
and there are some ancient illuminations in the chapel. 

Beyond Ephrata the train passes W. (with Black Oak Ridge on the r.) 
to Litiz, an ancient Moravian village with quaint and cleanly houses and 
large church-schools. It was founded by Bishop Hehl in 1756, and has 
been the seat of several coimcils. There is said to be much resemblance 
between this place and the Moravian village of Kouigsfeldt, in the 
Bavarian Black Forest. In this vicinity is the summer hotel at the Litiz 
Springs, situated amid pleasant hill-scenery. The train now crosses the 
towns of Pemi and Rapho, with the long South Mt. on the r. (distant). 
Turning S. from the borough of Manheim, it intersects the Penn R. R. at 
Landisville, crosses the town of W. Hempfield, and reaches Columbia 
(see Route 59). 



49 Reading to Wilmington. 



By the Wilmington & Reading R. R. in 4-4^ hrs., descending the BrandjTvine 
Valley and crossing the county of Chester, fares. — Reading to Coatesville, §1 ; 
to Wilmington, $2. 

Stations. — Reading ; Birdsboro', 9 M.; White Bear, 14 ; Geigertown, 17 ; 
Cold Run, 19 ; Joanna, 22 ; Springfield, 23 ; Conestoga, 27 ; Waynesburg Junc- 
tion, 28 ; Rockville, 30 ; Beaver, 31 : Honey brook, 32 ; Hibernia, 36 ; Brandy- 
wine, 37 ; Coatesville, 40 ; Modcna, 43 ; Mortonville, 46 ; Embreeville, 48 ; Sager'.s, 
54; Pocopson, 56; Chadd's Ford, 58; Smith's Bridge, 62; Centre, 64; Dupont, 
66 ; Lancaster, 69 ; Newport Road, 71 ; Wilmington, 73. 

The train passes out from Reading and follows the Phila. & Reading 
R. R. by the Neversink Hills and along the placid Schuylkill River. At 
Birdsboro' it diverges to the S., and crosses the sterile gravel lands of 
Robeson and Union townships. Beyond Geigertown the fruitful Great 
Valley is entered, and the line ascends the Welsh Mt. by easy gradients. 
Descending to the plains of Chester County, the train crosses the Waynes- 
burg Branch of the Penn. R. R. The W. BraTich of the Brandywine is 
now reached, and the main line of the Penn. R. R. is intersected at tlie 
flourishing borough of Coatesville. Tlie train now runs S. E. through a 
fertile and well-cultivated land, and near the placid Brandywine. From 
Sager's stages run N. E. 3-4 M. to West Chester, the county-seat; and 
15 V 



338 Route 50. BRANDYWINE. 

the State Road runs 6 - 7 M. S. \V. to Kennett Square. Chadd's Ford is 
4 M. beyond Sager's. 

The Battle of Brandyrvine was fought Sept. 11, 1777. Gen. Howe had led his 
army by sea from New York to attark Phila. ; and, landing at the head of Chesa- 
peake Bay, advanced to Kennett Square. Washington held the heights al)Out 
Chadd's Ford with 0,000 Continental trooi)s and a swarm of active but undisci- 
plined Penn. and Del. militia. The Anglo-German army advanced against the 
American i)osition at daybreak, and while Knyphausen's Hes.sians menaced and 
cannonaded the patriot lines. Lord Corawallis led the main body of the army by a 
rapid, secret, and circuitous march of 17 M., eluded the patrols, and suddenly 
appeared on the heights over the American riglit rear. Sullivan '.s brigades had 
hardly formed in line of battle, when the enemy swept upon them in overwhelm- 
ing numbers, and routed the right and left winjzs. 800 Continentals stood tinii in 
the centre, under Sullivan, Lafayette, and Stirling, until they were nearly anni- 
hilated by artillerj'. This was near the Birmingham Quaker meeting-house, now 
a quaint old building of serpentine stone, in whose yard many officers ai-e buried 
(an incorrect local tradition points out the grave of the noble Northumbrian. Earl 
Percy, who left America before the battle). Lafayette was wounded, Sullivan's 
aids were killed, and the entire right wing was broken up. Greene's Virginians 
and PeimsylTttuians left Chadd's Ford, and double-quicked 4 M. in 40 n)in. ; 
formed in line 1 M. from Birmingham church ; received the bntkeu regiments of 
fugitives ; and repelled the victorious British until dark. Meantime the Hessians 
had crossed at Chadd's Ford and routed tlje left wing under Wayne, capturing 
their camps and artillery. Wayne's men took shelter behind Greene's valiant 
division, and during the night the Americans fell back to Chester, having lost 
1,200 men and 11 pieces of artillery. The royal army lost about 600 men, and soon 
afterwards entered Phila. in triumph. 

Near Chadd's Ford tlie present roiite crosses the Phila. & Bait. Central 
R. R. ; and beyond S/nith's Bridge the State of Delaware is entered. 

50. New York and Philadelphia to Harrisburg, 
Pittsburgh, and the West, 

By the Pennsylvania R. R., which fonns one of the chief routes between the 
Atlantic coast and the Western States, controlling 1,600 M. of track. This line 
traverses some of the richest agricultural districts of the State ; passes through 
several large cities ; and aflbrds beautiful views of the scenery of the Juniata 
Valley and the main chain of the Allegheny Mts. Numerous branch roads di- 
verge on either side ; and at Pittsburgh connections are made with the Ohio sys- 
tem of railroads. Rapid express-trains run W. from N. Y. and Phila., and are 
furnished with palace and drawing-room cars. The cars are lighted by gas and 
heated by steam, and run on steel rails over a road-bed of limestone 20 inches 
deep. The Pullman cars run thiough (without change) fnun Phila. to HaiTis- 
burg in 4 hrs. ; to Pittsburgh in 13-15 hrs. ; to Cleveland in 20J hrs. ; to Chi- 
cago in 33 hrs. ; to St. Louis in 44 - 46 hrs. ; to Louisville in 36^ hrs. There is 
but one change of cars to Omaha, 58 hrs. ; St. Paul, 67^ hrs. ; Memphis, 63^ hrs. ; 
Mobile, 82 hrs. ; and New Orleans, 83 hrs. Tickets and information may be ob- 
tained at 77 and 70 Washington St., Boston ; 271, 435, 52G, and 944 Broadway, 8 
Battery Place, and 1 Astor House, New York ; 838 and 901 Chestnut St., the 
corner of Broad and Chestnut Sts., and 116 Market St., Phila. ; the corner of Bal- 
timore and Calvert Sts., Baltimore ; the corner of 6th St. and of 13th St. and 
Penn. Ave., Washington ; and at the railroad stations. 

The head-quarters of the road is at Phila , and the actual terminus is at New 
York, whence its swift Cinciimati and Pacific express-trains cross New Jersey 
with but 5 stops, and swing around Phila. to Mantua Junction and W. Phila. 
The local fares are : Phila. to DoAvnington, $1.13 ; to Lancaster, $2.40 : to Harris- 
burg, $3,69; to Millerstown, $4.83; to Lewistown, $5.81; to Huntington, 
$7.10; to Altoona, $8.20 ; to Johnstown, $9.65; to Greensburg, $11.29; to 
Pittsburgh, $12.40. 



VILLA NOVA. Route 50. 339 

Stations. — N. Y. to W. Phila., 00 M.; W. PhiLi, to Mnntna, 2 M.; Heston- 
ville, 3 ; Overbrook, 4 ; Merion, 5 ; WvnriP.wood, 6 ; Haverford CoUeije, S ; Brjnt 
Mawr, 9 : Villa Nova, lOi ; Radnor, 11 ; Wayne, 11 ; Ea,:;le, 15 ; Paoli. 19 ; West 
Chester Intersection, 21; Glen Loch, 25; Oakland, 2S; Downington, 32; Galla- 
gherville, 34; Coatesville, 38; Parkesbur;!, 44; Penninu;tonville, 47; Christiana, 
48; Gap, 51; Leaman Place, 57; Bird-in-Hand, 61 ; Lancaster , 69; Dillersville, 
70; Landisville, 76; Monnt Joy, 80; Elizabcthtown, 87; Branch Intersection, 
95; Middletnwn, 96; Hnrrisburg, 105; Rockville, 111; Marysville, 113; Dun- 
cannon, 120; Baily's, 12s ; Newport, 133; MLlIerstown, 138; Thonipsontown, 
143; Perrysville, lo2; MitHin, l'>4; Morrows, 161 ; Lewistnwn, 166; McVeytown, 
178; Newton Hamilton, 188; Mount Union, 191; Mapleton, 194; Mill Creek, 
198; Huntingdon, 203; Petersburi^, 209; Spruce Creek, 215; Birmingham, 220; 
Tyrone, 223; Tipton. 226; Bell's Mills, 230; Altoona, 237; Kittaning Point, 242; 
Galitzin, 249; Cresson, 252; Lilly's. 255; Wilmore, 262; S. Fork. 264; Mineral 
Point, 269; Conemaugh, 273; Jnlinstown, 276,' Nineveh, 285; New Florence, 
289 ; Bolivar, 295 ; Blairsville Intcrsecti(ni, 300 ; Derry. 308 ; Latrobe, 313 ; 
Greensburg, 323; Penn, 328; Irwin's, 332; Carpenter's, 337; Wall's, 339; Brin- 
ton's, 342; Hawkins, 345; E. Liberty, 347A ; Millvalc, 349; Lawrenceville, 352; 
Pittsburgh, 354; Wheeling, 445; Cleveland, 504; Toledo, 615; Detroit. 680; 
Fort Wayne, 674 ; Chicago. 822; 8t. L(mis, 974 ; Memphis, 1,154; Mobile, 1,473 ; 
New Orleans, 1,531; St. Paul, 1,231; Duluth, 1,387; Omaha, 1,316; Cheyenne, 
1,832 ; Salt Lake City, 2,382 ; Sacramento, 3,088 ; Sau Francisco, 3,223 M. from 
Philadeli.hia. 

The through train on this route from New York to the West crosses 
New Jersey, and follows the r. bank of the Delaware from Trenton to 
Frankford, where it turns W. and passes around the city of Phila. New 
York to Phila. by the Penn. R. II., see Route 37. On leaving the W. 
Phila. station (31st and Market Sts.), the train passes near the S. border 
of Fairmoimt Park, and at Hestonville gives a view of St. John'.s 
Asylum. At Overbrook are seen the imposing buildings of the Roman 
Catholic Tlieological School of St. Charles Borromeo, which was founded 
in 1833, and educates the clergy of this diocese. The buildings are of 
great extent, and are situated in pleasant grounds, while their domes and 
cloisters exemplify the light and cheerful Italian architecture. The line 
now enters the fair and fruitful county of Chester, which was early 
settled by the Friends, and is now largely populated by German-Ameri- 
cans. For a long distance a uniform ridge is seen on the r., bounding the 
famous Great Valley. Tlie dairy products of this county are of great 
value, and clusters of farm-buildings are seen on either side, among 
which the most conspicuous are the spacious and substantial barns. 
Haverford College pertains to the Friends, and was founded in 1833. 
It has 5 professors and 50-60 students, with a library of 8-10,000 
volumes. At Villa Nova are seen the stone buildings of tlie Villa Nova 
College, pleasantly situated on a knoll over a rich farming country. It 
has nearly 100 students, and is conducted by the Augustine monks, whose 
convent is near the college-halls. Station, Paoli, near the ancient tavern 
which was distinguished over a century ago by the sign of Gen. Paoli. 

2 M. S. W. of this inn is the marble monument which marks the battle-field of 
P.ioli. On the night of Sept. 21, 1777, Gen. Wa^nic and 1,500 Americans wore 
encamped here in fancied security, when Gen. Gray, with 2 British regiments, 
cut off their pickets and attacked the lines. The Continentals, hastily forming 



340 Route 50. WEST CHESTER. 

by tlie light of the camp-fires, Avere struck with resistless force by the hostile 
columns, leaping forth fi-oni the storm and darkness. A ]ianic-stricken flight 
ensued, and the assailants, refusing to give quarter, bayoneted 150 men. They 
then scattered Smaliwood's Marylanders (1,150 men), and remained in possession 
of the American camps, stores, and aitillery. About 2 M. from Paoli was born 
(Jan. 1, 1745) Anthony Wayne, one of the bravest and most brilliant of the 
officers of the army. He was called "Mad Anthony Wayne," and was especially 
distinguished for the storming of Stony Point (see page 69), and for his victorious 
campaigns against the Indians of Ohio (1792 - 94). 

The West Chester R. R. runs S. W. from the intersection, 2 M. be- 
yond Paoli, to West Chester, the capital of Chester Coimty. The 
borough contains 5,630 inhabitants, and is beautifully sitiiated on a ridge 
over the fertile valley. There are 3 fine academies here; and the villas 
and mansions in tlie vicinity are neat, and occupy embellished grounds. 
The West Chester & Phila. R. R. runs thence S. E. and E. to Phila. 

Downington is a pretty rural village near tlie marble-quarries which 
supplied Girard College. The Chester Valley R. R . runs thence N. E. 
22 M. through the garden-like Great Valley to Bridgeport (see page 331); 
and the Wayneshui'g Branch runs 18 M, N. W. to Waynesburg (fare, 55c. ; 
time, 50 min.), a farming-centre near the Welsh Mt. The Pittsburgh 
train passes S. W. to the prosperous borough of Coatesville (3,000 in- 
habitants), where the W. Branch of tlie Brandywine is crossed on a bridge 
900 ft. long and 60 ft. higli. The Wilmington & Reading R. R. is inter- 
sected near this point (see page 337). 

The Penn. & Delaivarc R. R. runs 38 M S. W. from Pomeroy, traversing a quiet 
rural region. At Avondale it crosses the Phila. & Bait. Central R. R. ; at Ijou- 
denberg, the Wilmington & Western R. R. ; at Newark, the Phila., Wil. & Bait. 
R. R. ; at Del. R. R. Crossing, the Delaware R. R. ; and in 2| hrs. from Pomeroy 
the train reaches Delaware City. 

Parkeshurg is a new and thriving village with iron-works and machine- 
shops. From Gap station a pleasant road leads off through the pictur- 
esque hill-country of Chester and Lancaster, whose inhabitants have been 
likened, in their frugality and simplicity, to the Tyrolese. They are 
mostly Friends or descendants of Fiiends. This district was called by 
Theodore Parker the most beautiful country that he had ever seen. From 
Mi7ie Ridge the railroad overlooks tlie rich plains of Lancaster County, 
which has been called "the garden of America," and is occupied by 
coimtless small farms (60-80 acres, or less), whose fine barns attract 
the attention. This district is famous for its large and powerful draught- 
horses, and for fine breeds of cattle. The county is also remarkable for 
its multiform theology, and it is claimed that no spot on the earth, with 
so small a po]nilation and area, has so many religious sects. In addition 
to the more familiar churches, there are many rural societies of the Dun- 
kards, Mennonites, Amish, and other singular German sects, whose vo- 
taries are generally distinguishable by peculiarities of costume and per- 
soaal appearance (see page 333). Beyond Gap the train descends to the 



LANCASTER. Route 50. 341 

Pequea Valley, which was settled in 1709 by Swiss Mennonites from 
Zurich and Berne, whose deputies returned to Europe and brought over 
large numbers of fellow-sectaries. From Leaman Place a branch railroad 
runs 4 - 5 M. S. W. to the pleasant borough of Strashurg. The train now 
crosses Pequea Creek, traverses the town of Lampeter, and reaches 

Lancaster. 

Hotels. - The Stevens House is a new and first-class hotel ; the City Hotel ; 
Michael's ; and several other small houses are near the station. 

Railroads. — The Penn. R. R., to Phila. in 69 M., to Harrisburg (36 M.) 
and Pittsbu-rgh (285 M.) ; the Reading & Columbia, to Reading in 42 M. (see 
Route 48); the Columbia Branch, to Columbia in 12 M. (and Harrisburg in 37 
M.)- Stages run from Lancaster to Safe Harbor, Peach Bottom, New Hollow, 
Gordousville, Millersville, Fairville, Neflfsville, Rawlinsville, and Quarryville. 

Lancaster, the capital of Lancaster County, is favorably situated in a 
rich farming country, 1 M. W. of Conestoga Creek. It has 20,233 in- 
habitants, with 21 churches (1 Moravian, 1 Mennonite), 2 daily papers, 
and 6 Aveeklies (2 German), and 3 banks. There are extensive manufac- 
tories of locomotives, rifles, cai-riages, axes, and other wares; and there is 
a considerable slack-water navigation on the Conestoga, which descends 
by 9 locks to Safe Harbor, 18 M. S. W. on the Susquehanna River. The 
city is compactly built (for the most part of brick), and its main streets, 
King and Queen, intersect each other in a wide central plaza, which is 
generally crowded on market days. To the E., on E. King St., is the 
imposing building of the Court House, with a portico supported on Co- 
rinthian columns. Farther out on E. King St. is the County Prison^ a 
neat building in Norman architecture. At the W. end of James St. are 
the halls of Franklin and Marshall College, an institution of the German 
Reformed Church, with 7 professors, 70 - 80 students, and a library of 
13,000 volumes. Franklin College was founded in 1787, and was well 
endowed by the State ; but languished and was finally closed up. The 
Reformed Cliurch assumed its control in 1853, and united it with Marshall 
College. The buildings are neat and substantial, and command pleasant 
views of the city and the Conestoga Valley. S. Queen St. leads to the 
Woodward Hill Cemetery, a large and picturesque ground in a bend of 
the creek; and the old Moravian graveyard is on North St., near Chest- 
nut. Fidton Hall is near the market-place, and is much used for evening 
entertainments. 

Lancaster was laid out in 1728 by order of the Penn proprietors, and was 
rapidly settled by German Lutherans. In 1742 it was made a borough, and in 
1754 it had over 2,000 inhabitants, with manufactories of saddles and guns. The 
turnpike leading to Phila. is said to be the oldest in the Republic, and was built 
1792-94 at a cost of §465,«00 (62 M. long). In 17G4 the Presbj^erian fanatics of 
Paxton and Donegal attacked (without provocation) the village of the peaceable 
Conestoga Indians, and killed several of their number. The remainder were 
guarded in the Lancaster workhouse until 2 weeks later, when 50 Paxton horse- 
men rode into the town, forced the workhouse doors, and massacred the unarmed 



342 Route 50. HARRISBURG. 

and blameless Indians, — men, women, and children. Large forces then gathered 
and marched on Phila. , designing to exterminate the Moravian Indians who had 
taken shelter there ; but the trnnquil Quakers aroused themselves and took anns, 
and the expedition came to naught. Lancaster was for many years the largest 
inland city in the U. S. ; and was the capital of the State from 1799 to 1812. 

Among the natives of Lancaster were Dr. A. L. Atlee ; B, S. Barton, the 
naturalist ; John W, Forney, the journalist (founder of the Phila. Press, and Sec. 
of the U. S. Senate, 1861-68) ; Col. George and Gen. John Gibson, Gen. Heniy 
Miller, Col. Naumann, Gen. John Steele, and Gen. Andrew Porter, of the U. S. 
Army ; Gen. J. F. Reynolds, who wa.s killed while leading the vanguard at Gettys- 
burg ; David Ramsay, the historian ; and Lindley Murray (in a neighboring vil- 
lage^, the grammarian. Bushop Utterbein here founded the sect of the United 
Brethren, which has 90,000 communicants in the U. S. ; and J. W. Nevin, D. D., 
the originator of the Merccrsburg system of theology, has resided here for many 
years. Robert Fulton, the inventor of steam-navigation (see page Ki), one of tlie 
most ingenious and energetic of men, was bora in this county and educated in 
Lancaster. 1 M. from the city is WJicatland, the estate where lived for many years 
James Buchanan, the 15th President of the U. S. He was born in Franklin County 
in 1791 ; became a successful lawyer at Lancaster; was in Congress from 1821 to 
1S31 ; minister to Russia, 1832-34 ; U. S. Senator, 1S34-3.5 ; Secretary of State, 
1845-49; minister to England, 1853-56. In 1856 he was elected President by 
the Democratic party ; and during the last mouths of his administration the 
Southern States declared themselves free. Buchanan's extreme views of State 
Rights prevented him from re-enforcing and defending the U. S. forts and arse- 
nals in the insurgent States ; and he left public life at the outbreak of the Seces- 
sion War. In 1868 he died at Wheatland. 

The train runs N. W. from Lanca.ster, and at Dillersville, 1 M. distant, 
the Columbia Branch diverges to the 1. At Landisville the line is inter- 
sected by the Reading & Columbia R. R. (Route 48), and bej'ond the 
wealthy borough of Mount Joy the South Mt. ridge is seen on the r. 
Elizabethtown is near the gap in the South Mt., and the train crosses the 
Conewago Creek on a fine bridge 100 ft. high and meets the Columbia 
Branch near the bridge over the Swatara. Middletown {Middletoitm 
Hotel ; Railroad House) is an important shipping-point at the confluence 
of the Swatara and the Susquehanna Rivers, and is on the Union Canal. 
It has over 3,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of car- works, foundries, and 
machine-shops. The name is derived from the fact that it was laid out 
(in 1775) as a midway halting-place between Lancaster and Carlisle. 
The train now runs N. W. for 9 M., with the broad Susquehanna River 
on the 1. hand, and enters the city of 

Harrisburg. 

Hotels. — * Kirkwood House, $3 a dny, on Market Square ; *Lochiel House, 
§3, on Market St. ; Bolton's Hotel, on Market Square; City Hotel, and other 
small houses near the R. R. station. State Capitol House, on 3d St., near the 
Capitol Park. 

Reading- Rooms. — State Library, in the Capitol, open 9-12 and 2-4; 
Y. M. C. A.. College Block, 2d St. Amiisements at the new Opera House, on 3d 
St., near the Capitol. 

Horse-Cars. — From the R. R. station up Market St. to 2d St., and N. on 
Walnut, 3d, Vcrbeke, and 6th Sts., passing the State Capitol and running near 
the Insane Asvlum. 

Railroads. — The Penn. R. R. to Lancaster, 69 M. ; to Phila., 106 M. ; to 
New York, 198 M. ; to Altoona, 131 M. ; to Pittsburgh, 248 M. ; to Erie, 341 M. ; 
— the Northern Central Railway, to Baltimore, 85 M. ; to Washington, 125 M. ; 



HARRISBURG. Route 50. 343 

to Elmira, 171 M. ; to Rochester, 269 M. ;— the Cumberland Valley R. R., io 
Hagerstovvn, 74 M. ; — the Lebanon Valley R. R. (Allentown Line), to Reading, 
54 M. ; to Allentown, 90 ; to New York, 182. 

Harrifiburg was founded in 1719 by John Harris, a Yorkshire brewer who had 
made a fortune by removing stumps from the streets of Philadelpliia. The land 
was called Paxton, and was owned by the Unami tribe of the Delaware nation. 
The settlers marched toward the scene of the Mahanoy massacre in 17.')5. but 
were ambushed and lost several men ; and at a later day the Indians (led by 
French officers) killed many of the people. The 4th Penn. battalion was raised 
in this vicinity during the Revolution ; and in 1784 John Harris, Jr., laid out the 
present city. In 1789 - 90 the Republic was nearly broken up by fierce discussions 
in Congress,— the Northern and Eastern members demanding that the national 
capital should be located on the Susquehanna, near Harrisburg, while the 
members from the S. and W. insisted on the line of the Potomac. The per- 
suasions of Jefferson finally located the capital on the Pot"mac. In 1785 the 
town was named Loiiishurci, in honor of the King of France ; while, in honor of 
the prince-royal, his son, the county received the name of Davphin (which it still 
retains). Harrisburg became a borough in 1791; the OracJc of Da/nphin newa- 
paper was started in the same year ; and in 1812 the capital of the State was located 
here. Washington and Lafayette were received at Harrislmrg with great ceremony; 
and 13 companies left this vichiity for the War of 1812 (1st and 2d' Penn. Regs). 

The city is now largely engaged in manufactures, and is favored by its proxim- 
ity to the great mineral deposits of the State. The chief industries are the car- 
factories, steel-works, and the rolling-mills and furnaces of the Lochiel Iron Co. 

Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania, is favorably situated on 
alluvial hills on the E. bank of the Susquehanna River, 106 M, from 
Philadelphia, and 248 M. from Pittsburg. It has 24,796 inhabitants, 30 
churches, 6 banks, 4 daily and 6 weekly papers. The surrounding 
scenery is pleasing, and the country is very populous ; and the city 
derives much importance from its railroad connections with the Sus- 
quehanna, Juniata, and Cumberland Valleys. The Stato Capitol is a 
comfortable but antiquated building on a hill N. of the city, and fronting 
down State St., on the Susquehanna. The main entrance is by a circular 
portico upheld by 6 Ionic columns of sandstone, 36 ft. high. From this 
point a lofty rotunda is entered, with the Senate Chamber on the 1., and 
the House of Representatives on the r., — low and unpretentious biit 
comfortable chambers. The chair of the Speaker of the House is the 
same in which John Hancock sat while signing the Declaration of Inde- 
pencience and also Lafayette's commission in the American army. The 
State Library is in the second story, and contains 30,000 volumes, in a 
well-lighted and cheerful hall, whose centre is occupied by a statue of 
Minerva. Around the galleries are arranged portraits of 29 governors of 
the colony and State, inchuling Mifflin, Franklin, and Penn (the latter 
bearing date 1666, and representing Penn in full annor, and with long 
hair). The portrait of Gov. Geary (over the door) is by Rothermel. In 
cabinets here are a few notable curiosities, — medals, quaint coins, letters 
of Franklin and Hamilton, Continental money, ancient royal charters 
(Charles II, to Penn), Indian deeds of land, a Mexican lance, and the 
flags of the Hessian garrison of Trenton Opposite the Adjutant- 
General's office is a room in which are skilfully displayed the 330 flags of 



344 Route 50. HARRISBURG. 

the Penn. regiments in the Secession War (28 only were lost). The summit 
of the dome is always accessible, and commands an attractive * view of 
the city and its environs, with the broad Susquehanna, and its passage 
throiigh the mts. to the N. W. Flanking the Capitol are two buildings 
in similar architecture, occupied by the State and Land Departments. 
To the S. is a lofty and graceful marble monument in honor of the 
Penn. soldiers who fell in the Mexican War. Beyond this is the State 
Arsenal, with its military armaments and park of artillery. Among the 
cannon are 2 captured at Cerro Gordo, and 4 which were brought to 
America by D'Estaing, and Avere presented by Lafayette to Congr^s. 
The oriflamme is emblazoned on each gun, and near the muzzle is tlie 
significant legend, Ultima Ratio Regum. Between the Capitol and the 
river is a rude and unadorned obelisk raised in honor of the soldiers of 
Dauphin County who died in the Civil War. The Court House is a 
spacious brick building on Market St., with a high portico and a dome. 
Just below the long and costly bridges which cross the Susquelianna is the 
Harris Park, where is seen the trunk of the tree to which John Harris, 
the pioneer of the city, was bound by hostile Indians. They were about 
to burn him to death, when a rescuing party arrived and drove them 
away. 

Front St. is on the bank of the Susquehanna, and is lined with fine 
mansions. It is a favorite promenade, and commands a series of pleasant 
views of the river, with its villages, islands, and bridges. During the 
advance of the Confederate army, in 1863, Harrisburg was seriously 
menaced, and the opposite heights were crowned with strong field-works. 
The villages of Wormleysburg and W. Fairview are seen on the S. shore, 
and the 2 parallel bridges (railroad and highway) which cross at Foster's 
Island. 1| M. N. W. of Harrisburg is the State Lunatic Asylum, 
with a Tuscan portico and spacious wings. The view from the dome is 
extensive and diversified. On the heights to the N. is the Brant mansion 
(in Gothic architecture), near wliich is a large convent. 3 M. distant is 
the ancient Paxton Chnrch, built in 1722, and still used. Market St. 
is the chief business thorouglifare, and crosses State St. at a wide square, 
wliich is occupied by market-houses. There are several large churches, 
and the Opera House is a costly building. The IJarrisbnrg Cemetery is 
favorably situated on the ridge above the Penn. Canal and the Paxton 
Creek, and is approached by State St. It aff"ords a fine prospect of the 
river and city, and of the Kittatinny Mts. on the N. and W. 

As the train leaves Harrisburg for the W., it passes the Insane Asylum 
on the r., and runs N. to that picturesque point where the Susquehanna 
breaks through the Blue Mt. This fine pass has been likened to an epi- 
sode of the scenery of the Rhine, at Andernach. The train now crosses 
the river on a bridge 3,670 ft. longj whence pleasant views are afi^orded on 



y 



JUNIATA VALLEY. Route 50. 345 

either side. This bridge was defended hy block-houses during the Seces- 
sion War. On the \. is Cove Mt., which forms a senu-ellipse, with both 
ends resting on the river and enclosing a valley 6 M. wide, called The 
Cove. A second gap is now approached on tlie N., in which Peter's Mt. 
is passed, amid pleasant and highly picturesciue scenery. Station, Dun- 
cannon (at the mouth of Sherman's Creek), whence a road leads 12 M. 
W. to the Perry Warm Springs. The line soon diverges from the Susque- 
hanna River, and follows the course of the beautiful Jmiiata, ascending 
through a wild and picturesque region of nits, and ravines. The narrow 
and fertile limestone valleys which diverge en either side are occupied by 
farms and small hamlets; but extensive districts among the rugged mts. 
are still in the wilderness state, and are frequented for the arduous sports 
of deer and bear hunting. The accommodations for tourists are but 
limited, and much of the best scenery is seen from the cars. This region 
was formerly inhabited by an active tribe of Indians, who subsisted on 
the game which then abounded here; and the Delawares and Nanticokes 
held the lower valley for many years. 

" Gay was the mountjiin-song " Strong find true my arrows are, 
Of" blight Alfarata, In iny piintL-d q-iiver ; 

Where sweep the waters of Swift goc3 my light canoe 

The blue Juniata. Adown the rapid river." 

2 M. above Duncannon, the hamlet of Benvenno is seen on the r., on 

Duncan's Island, a long and level alluvial island at the confluence of the 

rivers. The aijueduct of the Penn. Canal is on the r. as the train turns 

to tlie N., witli the Juniata close alongside. On the 1. is Dick's Hill, 

above which the Limestone RiJge (1.) and Half-Falls Mt. (r.) nearly close 

the gorge. 

Duncan's Island was occupied at an early date by the Delawares, who were 
afterwards defeated here after a battle in which 1,000 men were slain. The 
Delawares fought heroically ; but the Cayugas were armed with muskets, and 
therein held a decided adVnntage. In 1740 the Scotch-Irish settled here, but 
were soon evicted by the Penn proprietors, who also burnt their cabins. Tiie 
Nanticoke Indians located on these fertile plains after leaving the Valley of 
Wyoming, and were visited by the austere and feai-less missionaries, Loskiel, the 
Moravian, and Brainerd, the Puritan. Brainerd called these Indians " pagans 
and idolaters," and endeavored, by the aid of the Bible, to spoil the incantations 
and frustrate the (;harms during their great religious festival. But the Nanticoke 
pontiff said that God had taught him his religion, and he would never turn from 
it; adding that he would not believe in the Devil, and maintaining that the souls 
of the dead passed to the South, where the good were kept in a fair city with 
spiritual walls, while the evil hovered forever in outer darkness. 

As Buffalo Mt. is approached on the r., the train reaches Newport, a 
river- village, whence a road leads 5 M, S. W. to Bloomfield, the capital of 
Perry County, a small and decadent borough in the Mahanoy Valley. The 
Tuscarora 31 1. is now seen in advance, fdling all the horizon with its long 
and even-crested ridge. Beyond Millerstow7i a narrow defile is traversed 
in this ridge, and the line enters the great Tuscarora Valley, which ex- 
tends for 50 M. between the Shade and Tuscarora Mts. From the slope 
15* 



346 Route 50. LEWISTOWN. 

of Law's Ridge pleasant views are now enjoyed of MiJJllntotim, which is 
soon reached by the train. It is a pleasant hamlet on the 1. bank of the 
Juniata, and is the capital of Juniata County. 4 M. beyond this point 
the line enters the romantic pass called the Long Narrows, where the 
river is comj^ressed into a gorge which is overhung b}'^ bold bluffs and 
sliaggy hills. Within these contracted limits the railroad, highway, 
river, and canal make many broad curves between the broken lines and 
low peaks of the Shade Mt. and the Blue Ridge. These heights are said 
to be haunted by the ghost of Captain Jack (otherwise called the " Wild 
Hunter of the Juniata," and the "Black Hunter"), a daring ranger and 
Indian-fighter of the eax'ly colonial days. 

Lewistown ( Xational Hotel; Coleman'' s) is seen across the river from 
the station of the same name (stages run to the hotels). It is a borough 
of 2,737 inhabitants, situated on high ground on the 1. bank of the Juniata, 
nearly midway between Jack's Mt. and the Blue Ridge. It is the capital 
of Milflin County, and the Court House occupies a conspicuous position 
on the central square. Lewistown was settled by the Buchanans about 
the year 1755. Fort Granville was built 1 M. above, and was garrisoned 
by provincial troops, but the French and Indians captured it in 1756, and 
tortured several of the soldiers. 6 M. N. (near Reedsville) is Logan's 
Spring, the favorite camping-ground of the great chief, Logan, a firm 
friend of the Americans, and a brave and accomplished chief. He moved 
to Ohio in 1771 ; and in 1774 his family was slaughtered by marauding 
Americans. Thereafter, until his violent death in 1780, he was the scourge 
of the Western settlements. Logan's famous speech to the American en- 
voys is preserved in Jefferson's " Notes on Virginia." From Lewistown 
the picturesque Kishacoquillas Valley is entered, and may be followed to 
the N. for 13 M. to the Seven Mts. It is enclosed between Jack's Mt. and 
Stone Mt. (Blue Ridge), and on the E. "is split into 3 deep, picturesque 
vales by 2 long mts. standing out in the valley like stranded ships turned 
bottom up." Opposite Logan's Gap it is 4 M. wide, and is "a paradise of 
beautiful fertility." Fine trouting is found in the upper parts of the 
valley ; on the Blue Ridge to the S. is an unbroken wilderness which ex- 
tends for many leagues, and is haunted by bears and deer. 

The Mifflin & Centre County R. R. runs 13 M. N. (in 50 min. ; fare, 4Ckc.) from 
Lewistown to the sequestered hamlet of ilf(7roy (450 inliabitants), which isnearthe- 
silent passes of the Seven Mts. This railroad follows the Kishacoquillas Creek 
through a deep defile in Jack's Mt. and enters Armagh, wliose fertile limestone 
valleys are overlooked by knob-like peaks. 

Tlie Lewistown Division. 

Stations. — Lewistown Junction ; Lewistown, 1 M. ; Maitland, 5 ; Painter, 8 ; 
Shindel, 11 ; Wagner, 12 ; McClure, 17 ; Adamsburg, 23 ; Beavertown, 25 ; Benfer, 
30 ; Middleburg, 33 ; Meiser's, 36 ; Kreamer, 37 ; Pawling, 30 ; Selinsgi-ove, 43 ; 
Selinsojrove Junction, 45 ; Sunbury. 50. This railroad (2 trains daily) traverses a 
thinly settled district between Jack's and Shade Mts. The inhabitants are mostly 



BEDFORD SPRINGS. Route 50. 347 

of German origin, and are engaged in agriculture. Beaver-fozort and Mlddlehurg 
are the cliief stations on tlie line ; and at Sellnsgrove the train crosses the 
broad and many-islanded Susquelianna and connects with tlie N. Central R. R. 
(Route GO). 

the Penn. R. R. runs S. W. from Lewistown with the Juniata on the 
r. and the Blue Ridge on the 1. At Newton Hamilton the Great Aughwick 
Valley opens to the S. ; and at the prosperous borough of Mount Onion, 
the line passes through a gap in Jack's Mt. A narrow-gauge R. R. runs 
12 M. S. from iMt. Union to Orhisonia, in the Germany Valley. The 
Sideling Hill is soon seen on the 1. ; beyond whicli a view is afforded (1.) 
of the moutli and lower valley of the beautiful Raystown Juniata (branch 
river). Huntingdon {Ellsworth House ; Mansion) is finely situated on 
the 1. bank of the Juniata, and has a large shipping trade. The Hunting- 
don Warm Springs are 5 M. N., near the foot of the Wari'ior Ridge ; and 
on the Ridge are the remarkable bowlders known as the Pulpit Fi,ocks. 
The views from Warrior Ridge are of great breadth and interest. The 
borough contains over 3,000 inhabitants, and occupies the site of an im- 
portant village of the Oneidas. It was founded by the Provost of tlie 
University of Penn. before the Revolution, and was named in honor of the 
Countess of Huntingdon, who had been a benefactx'ess of the University. 

The Huntingdon S Broad Top R. R. 

Stations. — Huntingdon ; McConnelstown, 5 M. ; Pleasant Grove, 7 ; Mai^k- 
lesburg, 11 ; Coffee Run, 15 ; Rougli and Ready, 11 ; Cove, 20 ; Saxton, 24 ; Rid- 
dlesburg, 29; Hopewell, 31; Tatesville, 40; Bloody Run, 43; Mt. Dallas, 44; 
Lutzville, 47 ; Bedford, 52 ; WoU'sburg, 55 ; Napier, 57 ; Suli)hur Springs, 02 ; 
Londonderry, 66; Preston, 71 ; Bridgeport, 75 (Cumberland, 89). 

The train crosses tlie Juniata at Huntingdon, and runs S.W. up the arable and 
productive valley, witli Tussey's Mt. on the r. From Saxton a branch diverges to 
Coahnont and Broad Top City, on the high plateau of Broad Top Mt. This 
region abounds in semi-bituminous coal, and has 23 collieries, from which 474,178 
tons were sent to marlcet in 1873. The Raystown Juniata is crossed near Sax- 
ton ; and from Middleburg (between Warrior Ridge and Round Knob) a branch 
line runs E. to Fairplay. The train passes through the Warrior Ridge, in the 
ga^) whicli is formed l)y the Raystown Juniata ; then traverses Evitt's Mt. and 
reaches Bedford {Juniata House), the capital of Bedford County. This borough 
(1,247 inliabitants) is beautifully situated on a limestone ridge, surrounded by tall 
nits., and narrow fertile glens, and is favorably known for the purity and coolness 
of its air! Bedford Springs ( *Bedford Springs Hotel) are 1^ M. from the 
borough, in a pretty glen under Dunning's Mt. The chief spring is chalybeate, 
and contains, in each gallon, 5 grains of carbonate of iron, 8 of carbonate of lime, 
8ft of sulphate of magnesia, 10 of chloride of sodium, and 15 of sulphate of lime. 
The effect is cathartic, and affords relief in cases of dyspepsia, incipient consump- 
tion, diabetes, and cutaneous diseases. In the curative process much credit is 
also given to the pure mountain air. 40 rods from the chalybeate spring is a strong 
sulphur-spring; and a line of pleasant walks leads to tlie summit oi Constitution 
Hill, whence are afforded tine views of Bedford and its encircling mts. These 
springs were discovered in 1804, and have been a popular resort for over 60 
years. 

The R. R. passes S.W. from Bedford with Will's Mt. on the 1. ; and at Bridge- 
port connects with the Pittsburg, Washington & Baltimore R. R. 

Leaving the picturesque environs of Huntingdon, the Pittsburgh train 
runs N.W. through the pass in Warrior Ridge, and beyond Petersburgh 



348 Route 50. BALD EAGLE VALLEY. 

tlie Juniata is seen diverging to the 1. To the S.W. is Morrison'' s Cove, 
a rich vfilley which was settled in 17 ;"> by the German Dunkards, a singu- 
lar religious sect, one of whose doctrines was that of non-resistance. In 
1777 tlie Indians entered the Cove and exterminated tlie settlers, who sub- 
missively bowed to the stroke of death, saying, " Gottes wille sei gethan " 
(God's will be done). One of their number (named Neff) made resistance, 
killed two Indians and escaped ; but for this inconsistent action he was 
tried by the Dunkard Church and excommunicated. The train passes 
from lofty Petersburg!! iip the valley of the Little Juniata, and penetrates 
the long ridge of Tussey's Mt. by a costly tunnel. Iron-furnaces and ore- 
banks are now occasionally seen ; and a productive iron-district is entered. 
Tyrone {City Hotel) is now reached, and is noted for its great iron-works 
and forges. It is the chief shipping-point for the products of Clearfield 
and Centre Counties. A few M, S. E. is the Arch Sjjrinff, one of several 
curious fountains in the limestone rock, and near productive lead-n»ines. 

The Tyrone £ Clearfield Division runs 41 M. N. W. from Tyrone through scantily 
populated valleys and deep ravines, and terniiuates at Clearfield (Allegheny 
House), the capital of the wide forest-county of Clearfield. It is situated in a 
region of pine-hills, and has 1,G00 inhabitants, 5 churches, and 2 papers. At 24 M. 
from Tyrone the train passes Pliillip&bui'g (LojxZ House), a nor.t village of 2,000 
iiihabitants, with 5 churches and 2 papers. It is located on the Moshannou River, 
far up on the AUet^heny Mts., and was founded in 1793 by Henry Phillips of Eng- 
land. Near this point is the large lumbering-village of Osceola (Osceola House). 

The Bald Eagle Valley Division. 

Stations. —Tyrone ; Bald Eagle, 5 ; Hannah, 10 ; Port Matilda, 14 ; Martha, 
17 ; Jidian, 21 ; Unionville. 2o ; Snow Siioe Intersection, 2.1 (Snow Shoe) ; Miles- 
burg, 31 (Bellefonte, 33) ; Curtin, 34 ; Mount Eagle, 37 ; Howard, 40 ; EagleviUe, 
44 ; Beech Creek, 46 ; Mill Hall, 51 ; Lock Haven, 55. 

This line traverses the Bald Eagle Valley, a remarkable hollow be- 
tween the main chain of the AUeghenies and the ranges wliich are known 
as the Bald Eagle Eidge and the Muncy Mount. The valley is from 4 to 
7 M. wide, and has a productive limestone soil. The scenery is wild and 
picturesque, and civilization has as yet made but slight inroads into the 
region. A branch line diverges to the N.*W. at the Snow Shoe Intersec- 
tion, and runs to Snow Shoe, a prominent village among tlie mts., and 
the chief place in this rugged district. Bellefonte i*Bush House, 300 
guests) is a prosperous borough of 2,655 inhabitants, with the public 
buildings of Centre County. It is largely engaged in handling and export- 
ing the products of the valley, and also of the Nittany Valley. Much 
iron is sent to market from this point; and there are large furnaces in the 
vicinitJ^ A canal runs hence to the Susquehanna Valley at Lockhaven. 
Bellefonte is finely situated at the foot of Bald Eagle Mt., and is famed 
for the purity and salubrity of its air and the beauty of its environs. The 
romantic district of the Seven Mountains is easily reached from this 
point ; and other localities, famous for hunting and fishing, are also ac- 



ALTOONA. Route 50. 349 

icessible. The borough of Bellefonte is supplied with water from the large 
spring which has given it name. Yxom Milesburg tlie railroad descends 
the Bald Eagle Valley for 24 M., passing several small hamlets, and then, 
connects with the Phila. & Erie R. R. at Lock Haven. 

A raih'oad is being constructed from -Tyrone to Lewisburg, about 80 M. N. E,, 
on the Susquehanna River. It traverses a wild and rugged district among tlie 
Seven Mts. and the Nittany, Jack's, and Brusli ranges. This line will be crossed 
at Linden Hall by a railroad from Bellefonte to Mih'oy (and Lewistown). 



The Pittsburgh train turns S. W. from Tyrone, and ascends the Tucka- 
hoe Valley, with the Brush Mt. on the 1. and the bold AUeghenies on the 
r. Iron furnaces and mines are seen on either side, and just across the 
shaggy ridge of Brush Mt. is a region of lead-mines. Beyond the petty 
hamlets of Tipton and Fostoria, the train reaches Altoona. 

Altoona {* Logan House^ at the station, ^3.50 a day; Brant House; St. 
Charles), " the Mountain City," is situated on a broad plateau at the E, 
base of the Allegheny Mts., and at the head of the Tuckahoe Valley. In 
1840 this site was chosen for the location of the machine-shops of the 
Pennsylvania R. R., and it was then covered by an ancient forest in 
whose recesses were 3 log-huts. An agent was sent with written orders 
to buy the land of the woodsmen, even if he had to give $10,000 for it. 
The orders were mislaid, and the pioneer's wife found them just in time 
to prevent her husband from selling the land for $6,000. The authorized 
sum was paid, and in 1850 the works were commenced. At that time a 
large pond occupied the site of the present hotels, and 1 train daily (with 
3 cars) was sent across the mts. on the old Portage R. R, The city now 
has 15,000 inhabitants, 3 papers, 3 banks, 16 churches (valued at $450,000), 
and a convent, and 16 schools with 3,000 pupils. The tire department has 
3 steam-engines, and the water is brought from a point 4 M. distant by 
works which cost $ 300,000. The Mechanics'' Library (near the Logan 
House) contains 5,000 volumes. Besides the immense R. R. shops, Al- 
toona has numerous other manufactories, including foundries, car-works, 
and the rolling-mill of the Altoona Iron Co. Travellers from the E. 
arriving here at evening frequently remain over night, in order to ascend 
the AUeghenies by daylight. 

Hollidayshurg, Morrison's Cove, and Nexvry Branches. 

Stations. — Altoona; Canan's, 4 M.; HoUidaysburg, 8 (Ncwry, 11) ; Williams- 
burg Junction, 9 (Williamsburg, 22); Reservoir, 11 ; McKee's, 15; Roaring Spring, 
17 (Bloomfield, 22); Erb's, 19; Martinsburg, 22; Henrietta Junction, 24; Henri- 
etta, 28. 

HoUidaysburg {American House) is the capital of Blair County, and 
has (with its close-lying environs) over 4,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches 
and a popular academy. It is finely situated near the E. base of the 
AUeghenies, and is in the centre of a region prolific in iron and bitumi- 



350 Route 50. CRESSON SPRINGS. 



nons coal. It is on the great National Road to the "West, and was the E. 
terminus of the old Portage R. R., which ascended the Alleghenies by ,. 
long planes and stationary engines. There is fine sporting at the greatii 
reservoir S. E. of Cliiinney Ridge ; and 1 M. from the borough is thei' 
Mountain House, a summer hotel 1,200 ft. high. The village of Gaysportr 
is adjacent to Hollidaysburg, and in the vicinity are large blast-fumacesej 
■where the Juniata iron is prepared for market. A branch line rungi 
S. W. to the hamlet of Neivry ; and another line follows the Frankstownn 
Juniata to the N. E., up Morrison's Cove, to the picturesque village ofM 
Williamsburg, beyond the Lock Mt. Still another railroad runs S, E. '. 
from Hollidaysburg, following the shore of the Reservoir, and traversing 
Dunning's Mt, at McKee's Gap. Roaring SpHng is a natural curiosity 
which is much visited in sunmier, and a branch line runs thence to 
Bloomfield. The train i)asses on to Martinsburg (Continental House), a 
neat borough of 800 inhabitants, in the lower part of Morrison's Cove ; 
beyond which is the terminus of the road, at Henrietta^ under Tussey'a 
Mt. and 6 - 8 M. from Saxton, on the Huntingdon & Broad Top R. R. 



Beyond Altoona the Pittsburgh train commences the ascent of \h»\* 
Allegheny Mts. The engineering works on this section exhibit the 
greatest skill and daring, and are massive and of great strength. The 
grades are heavy (maximum, 84^ ft. to 1 M. ), and descending trains shut 
off steam and keep the breaks on for 11 M. The 1. side of the car should 
be taken, and extensive mt.-^iews are afforded as the train climbs up 
along the side of the great riilge. Near Kittaning Point is the famous 
Horse-Shoe Bend, which is so short that the head of tlie train is seen 
going in an opposite direction from the rear cars, and ascending on tlie 
farther side of a deep ravine. On the ridges to the S. are seen sections 
of the old Portage R. R., and the Tuckahoe Valley is overlooked for a 
great distance. At the summit the train passes through the Allegheny 
Tunnel, which is 2,200 ft. above the sea and 3,670 ft. long. Station, 
Galitzin (Washington House), in a coal-mining district. Cresson is 2^ M., 
beyond the Tunnel, and is famous as a summer resort. It is 3,000 ft.; 
above the sea, and has accommodations for 2,000 guests. The *Mountairi^ 
House is situated amid pleasant grounds to the 1. of the track, and ia 
near the Cresson Springs. There are 7 of these springs, the chief of 
which is a pleasant and astringent chalybeate water near the remains of; 
the old Portage R, R. Near this point is a strong alum spring, and ther^ 
are other well-arranged sources on the hotel-grounds. But the chief 
attraction at Cresson is the remarkable purity and coolness of the air, 
which is doubtless due to its great altitude. The thermometer rarely 
reaches 75° in the hottest summer days, and the guests sleep unde 
blankets throughout the season. The bracing quality of tlie air is ver^ 



J OH NSTOW N. Route 50. 35 1 

jeneficial to invalids and persons Avho have been weakened by sedentary 
ife. The rides and rambles lead from the hotels to several points of 
interest, especially to certain lofty summits which command broad views 
over the Allegheny ridge and the valleys to the E. There are numerous 
tottages in the vicinity; and the hotels are much visited by people from 
the West, whose merchants, passing to the Atlantic cities on business 
ferrands, leave their families at Cresson until their return. There is a large 
ivery-stable at the hotel, and the railroad runs special trains over the 
mountain division to exhibit its scenery to the guests. 

6-8 M. N. W. of Cressen is lioretto, where a prosperous Catholic community 
vas established in 1798 by Father Galitzin (son of Prince Galitzin of Russia). This 
•emarkable man was some time a Russian army officer, but came to America in 
1792, designing to travel. He became a Catholic priest, and expended great sums 
iH establishing Loretto, whence his missionary charge extended over the whole 
nt. region. He refused the episcopacy several times, and died in 1840. A mouu- 
hient has been erected to his memory in front of the Loretto Church. The Catho- 
lic College of St. Francis is located here, and has 12 instructors and 90 students. 

The Ebetisburg ct Cresson Brunch li. R. runs W. to Ebensburg in 11 M. (1 hr. ; 
fare, 40c.). This borough has 1,240 inhabitants, and is the capital of Cambria 
County. It has 3 Welsh churches, and a large part of the population is of that 
lationality. whose language is generally spoken here and throughout Cambria 
I!ounty. Ebensburg is situated on a high ridge of the AUeghenies, and commands 
oroad and striking views. 2 M. N. W. is the deserted hamlet of Bcalah; and 
Loretto is G M. E. N. E. 

> : Beyond Cresson the train passe.s several rude hamlets and traverses a 
I Iwide and desolate plateau, slowly descending by the side of the Cone- 
biaugh Creek- Near the station of the same name is the massive Cone- 
\ maugh Viaduct ; and in 24 M. from Cresson the train reaches Johnstown 
{Merchant's Hotel), a borough of 6,028 inhabitants, with great iron and 
steel works and manufactures. The Cambria Iron Works are located 
here, and employ a large force. The borough is compactly built, at the 
pontluence of the Conemaugh and Stony Creek, and has a broad central 
square, near which are 2 handsome churches. 

Johnstown was settled by Joseph Jahns in 1792, and soon became an imiwrtant 
station on the line of emigration, being at the head of navigation on the Westei-u 
tvaters. In 1834 the canals which ran from the E. and W. to the foot of the 
A.lleghenies were joined by the construction of the Allegheny Portage R. R.. 
which was 40 M. long, and cost $1,500,000. It crossed the ridge at a point 2,500 
ft. above the sea ; the ascent from the E. plains being 1,398 ft. ; and the descent 
fco the \V. plateau 1,172 ft. The cars were drawn by stationary engines up i)l;ine-5 
of 4-6 degrees of inclination, connected by winding levels. At the Staple Bend 
was a tunnel 870 ft. long ; and the Horse-Shoe Bend Avas crossed by a massive 
viaduct of 80 ft. span. The canal-boats on the adjacent waters Avere built in sec- 
tions ; and on reaching the end of the canals, they were separated into 4 trans- 
verse divisions, and carried across the mts. on cars. The emigrants and freight 
liemained on board during the transit ; and on reaching Johnstown the sections 
iof the boat were rejoined, and she passed W. on the canal to the Ohio. 

! Beyond Johnstown the line passes Laurel Hill in the gap through 
jwhich the Conemaugh flows ; crosses the Ligonier Valley;, and traverses 
'the gorge in Chestnut Ridge, " the last mt. the traveller, going West, sees 
ifthis side the Rocky Mts." " Laurel Hill and Chestnut Ridge run parallel 



352 Route 50. LATROBE. 

for 70 M., and enclose the Ligonier Valley, the crest-lines of the 2 mts, 
being always almost exactly 10 M. apart." Beyond Lockiiort, with its fim 
canal-aqueduct, the train passes Bolivar and sweeps around the sloj^es of 
Chestnut Ridge; traverses a great tunnel and cutting; and reaches Blairs- 
ville Intersection. 

The Indiana Branch runs N. from Blairsville Int. to the borough of Indiana, 
capital of Indiana County, in 19 M. (70 min. ; fare, 67c.). 

Western Penn. Division. 
Stations. — Blairsville Int.; Blairsville, 3 M. ; Livermore, 8; Kelly's, 12; 
Saltzburg, 17; Fairbanks, 18; Northwe.st, 22; Roarinj; Run, 24; Apollo, 27; 
Leatthburg, 32 ; Alle!,'lieiiy Junction, 37 (intersection of Allegheny Valley R.B.); 
Freeport. 38 ; Butler Junetion, 39 (branch to Butler, 60); Natrona, 43 ; Tarentum, 
45 ; tspringdale, 51 ; Haruiers ville, 55 ; Fairview, 57 ; Shaipsburg, 62 ; Allegheny 
City, 67. 

Blairsville is a pleasant village, whose chief curiosity is a bridge with 
an arch of 295 ft. span. Tlie W. Penn. line follows the Conemaugh River 
to the salt-works at Saltzburg, where the Loyalhanna Creek conies in from 
the S. E., and the confluent stream is henceforth known as the Kiski- 
minetas. The train follows the 1. bank of the river through a quiet rural 
country to its confluence with the Allegheny River, near which the W. 
Penn, R. R. crosses the Allegheny Valley R. R. and the Allegheny River. 
From Butler Junction the Butler Extension R. R. runs 21 M. N, W. (1| 
hrs. ; fare, 63c.) to the thriving borough of Butler, the capital of the 
county of the same name. It is prettily situated, on higli ground, and is 
favored with a broad view over the Conequenessing Valley The W. 
Penn. train runs S. W. on the r. bank of the Allegheny River, and pass:es 
Natro7ia and Tarentum. On the opposite shore are the tracks of the 
Allegheny Valley R. R., traversed by long trains of tank-cars; and the 
line passes rapidly down through the manufacturing suburbs of Pittsburgh 
and stops at Allegheny City. 



The main line runs S. W. from Blairsville Intersection, with Chestnut 

Ridge on tlie 1. Latrobe {Huston House) is pleasantly situated on the 

Loyalhanna Creek, and is the head-quarters of the order of Benedictine 

monks in the U. S. (There are nearly 300 American Benedictines, wh<| 

are devoted to educational labors.) St. Vincent's College is located heTe\ 

and has 22 teacliers and 227 student.^, Avitli a library of 6,000 volumes 

(conducted by the Benedictines). Greensburg is the capital of West* 

nioreland County, and is pleasantly situated on far-viewing lieights. It ii 

surrounded by a pleasant and fertile country with which a considerable 

trade is carried on. | 

In the Presbyterian churchyard is a monument over the grave of Arthur St 
Clair, grandson of tlie Scottish Earl of Roslyn, and brother-in-law of Gov. Bow 
doiu of Mass. ; an officer in the early French and Indian wars ; commander of th< 
N. J. militia in 1776, and afterwards of Fni-t Ticonderoga (see page 113). H( 
founded Cincinnati, and named it in honor of the patrician military order ol whicl 



PITTSBUEGH. Route 50. 353 

e was an officer. In 1791 he led 1,400 U. S. soldiers against the Indians on tlie 
liami, but was defeated with a loss of 600 men ; and some yeai-s later, retired to 
lonely cabin on Chestnut Ridge, where he ended his days in unmerited poverty 
nd obscurity. 

The S. W. Penn. R. R. runs 24 M. S. from Greensburg, terminating at 
^onnellsville, on the P., W. & B. R. R. (Route 54). The Penn. R. R. 
^ain runs N. W. from Greensburg to Penn station, which is 2 M. S. of 
he battle-ground where Col. Boquet defeated the French and Indians. 
tt Brinton's the line approaches the Monongahela River, on whose far- 
her shore occurred Braddock's defeat (July 9, 1755). 

Gen. Braddock had led 1 ,000 British regulars and 1,000 pro^incials on a long and 
rduous march from Alexandria, Va., to attack the French works at Fort Du- 
lueoiie (Pittsburgh). As the advanced guard crossed the Monongahela and ad- 
vanced unsuspectingly through a region of shallow ravines, it was suddenly en- 
il uled by several sharp volleys from an unseen foe. The disconcerted vanguard 
ell back on the centre and communicated a i)anic to the anny. Braddock strove 
1)1- :; hours to form his men into line of battle, while the enemy were pouring in a 
lr;idly fire from the ravines and sheltered positions on every side. Washiugt)n's 
V ii-inians checked the French by bush-fighting ; but the close platoons ol the 
•egnlars were mowed down rapidly ; and Braddock, after 5 horses were shot 
mder him, fell with a mortal wound (^from one of his own men). Sir Peter Hal- 
iet was killed. Sir John St. Clair was wounded, and the army broke ranks and 
led, h.iving lost 63 officers and 714 men. Washington (then a colonel of proviu- 

' jials) was the senior surviving officer, and led the remnant of the forces back to 

' Virginia. 

Beyond Wilkinsburg the line enters the municipality of Pittsburgh, and 

passes numerous large suburban villages. Near Torrens' are extensiva 

stock-yards ; factories and furnaces are passed in continuous lines ; broad 

' networks of tracks cluster about the main-line ; the air grows heavy 

■ and smoke-laden, and the train enters the Union Railroad Station at 

Pittsburgh. 

Hotels. — * Monongahela House, on Smithfield St., S4 a day ; Central, comer 
Smithlield and 3d Ave., S3 a day ; St. Charles, corner Wood St. and 3d Ave.; St. 
■Clair, Penn. St. In the railroad station is the entrance to the * Union Depot Ho- 
tel (^3.50 a day) ; and near the station are the Rush and St. James Hotels (Euro- 

^Reading- Rooms.— Mercantile Library, Penn St., near 6th ; Y. M. C. A., 
corner Penn and 0th Sts. ; Church Guild rooms. Penn St. Post-Office, corner oi 
5th Ave. and Smithfield St. ' ,„..,, ^ . 

Horse-cars. — From the corner of Penn and 6th Sts. to the Cemetery and 
Sliarpsburgh, and to Allegheny City, Manchester, and Troy Hill. From 4th Ave., 
ne.ir Market St., to Oakland and E. Lii>erty ; to Centre Ave. and MuiersviUe : and 
to Ormsby. From tlie corner of Grant and Liberty Sts. to Birmingham. From 
5th Ave. and Smithfield St. to Allegheny City and Pleasant Valley. Inclined 
planes (6e.) ascend Mt. Washington from Monongahela, aud Mt. Oliver from Bir- 
mingham. „ , , 

Amusements. — Music and drama at the Pittsburgh Opera-House and at 
the Academy of Music ; varieties at the American and Varieties theatres ; lectures, 
etc., at Mercantile-Library Hall and Masonic Hall. 

Steamers. — On the Ohio River to Pox-tsmouth, Zanesville, Parkersbur-, 
Marietta, Wheeling (91 M.), Evnnsville, Nashville, Cincinnati (313 M.), Louisville 
(482 M.), Memphis, Vicksbur^', and New Orleans. On the Monongahela River, to 

W 



354 Route 50. PITTSBURGH. 

Morgantown and intermediate ports, tri-weekly. On the Allegheny River (fotj 
freight) to Oil City. Steamers also run semi-daily to BrownsviUe and Geneva. 

Pittsburgh, one of the chief manufacturing cities of the United States, s, 
is situated at the confluence of the Monongahela and Allegheny Rivers, s. 
The most thickly populated quarter is built on an alluvial delta near the w 
union of the waters ; and populous suburbs extend along the river shores, s, 
with abrupt hills rising amphitheatrically on all sides. The municipality:) 
includes about 125,000 inliabitants, having annexed a large territory ad- 1- 
Jacent, in 1872. The wholesale and retail trading is mostly done on n 
and about Smithfield St., 5th Ave., Penn and Liberty Sts. The jiver- r. 
banks are lined with manufactories and steamboats, and the hills are '« 
being rapidly occupied by residences. There are many fine view-points 
about the city; but it is very rarely that a prospect of any magnitude 
can be gained, owing to the dense pall of smoke which continually 
overhangs the valley. The multitude of tall chimneys that belch forth 
heavy clouds of smoke from fires fed by bituminous coal overcasts the 
city with a murky twilight, such as is frequently seen at London and 
Birmingham. The picturesque site of Pittsburgh is best seen on a breezy 
Sunday. The city (together with Allegheny) has 22 banks, 10 daily (3 
German) and 11 weekly papers, 32 Masonic societies, 45 lodges of Odd 
Fellows, 8 convents, and 205 churclies (47 Meth., 45 Pres., 30 Cath., 12 
Epis., 11 Luth., and 10 Bapt.; of which 10 are African, 16 German, 4 
Welsh, 2 Hebrew, and 1 Bohemian). 

The * Municipal Hall was built at a cost of $ 750,000. It is at the 
corner of Smithfield and Virgm Sts., and has a massive central tower and 
granite front. Closely adjoining is the solid and substantial Post-Office 
and Custom House building, on the corner of the brilliant and busy 5th 
Ave. On the hill to the E. is the Catholic Cathedral of St. Paul, a large Re- 
structure with 2 lofty twin-spires and a dome over the choir. The aisles 
are double, and the high altar is adorned with a large painting of the 
Crucifixion. Near the Cathedral is the * Court House, lifted high above 
the street on a terrace encased in masonry, and displaying a classic portico 
adorned with columns. St. Peter's Church (Epis. ) is a graceful structure 
which fronts on Grant St. * Trinity Church (Epis.) is a new and elegant 
edifice on 6th, near Smithfield St. It is in the English Gothic style, and! 
contains some costly stained glass. Near this is the 1st Presbyterian 
Church, with a lofty facade flanked by towers ; and with its quiet pres- 
ence amid the centre of busy traffic, and its massive yet dingy stone- 
work, it reminds one of the ancient London city churches. The Mer- 
cantile Library has a spacious building (costing $250,000) on Penn. 
St., in wdiich is the library-hall, with 15,000 books and files of the 
latest papers and magazines. The audience-hall in this building is 
the largest and finest in the city. The Western University is near the 



PITTSBURGH. Route 50. 355 

Court House, and has 14 instructors and 296 students. The Pittsburejh 
Female College is a Methodist institution with 347 students. Along the 
Monongahela front of the city are the landings of the steamers, a large 
fleet of which are usually moored along the shelving bank. Many tourists 
will here get their first view of the peculiar vessels which are used on the 
Western rivers. The point at the confluence of the rivers is occupied by 
the West Point Boiler Works, and thence the Duquesne Way runs N. E. 
along the Allegheny River. The Way is lined with great factories, — the 
Duquesne Engine, Globe Plow, Wayne Iron and Steel, Pittsburgh Plow, 
and other works. 

The densely settled S. wards are nearly separated from the rural wards 
by steep hills, on which are fine residences and public buildings, with the 
City High School. These rural wards are dotted with villages, and their 
river-shores are lined with factories. They are traversed by 3 horse- 
railroads and 3 steam-railroads. Beyond Lawrenceville (the seat of the 
extensive Allegheny U. S. Arsenal) is the AllegJieny Cemetery, the chief 
of the numerous burying-grounds about Pittsburgh. The Westsm 
Penn. Hospital is a large building near Ridge St. (12th Ward) ; the 
Mercy Hospital has fine houses on Stephenson St. ; the Convent of the 
Sisters of Mercy is on Webster Avenue (corner of Chatham), and is the 
oldest house of the order in America. The Ursuline Convent and Or- 
phanage has spacious buildings E. of the High School. The Allegheny 
U. S. Arsenal occupies spacious and highly ornamented grounds in the 
N. E. part of the city, near the Allegheny River, and has large clusters 
of buildings for the manufacture of military armaments. 

The South Side Boroughs are S. of the Monongahela, and belong to 
the city. Those on the river include (from E. to W.) Ormsby, E. Birnring- 
ham, Birmingham, S. Pittsburgh, Monongahela, W. Pittsburgh, Temper- 
anceville, and Chartiers. These suburbs are dark, dingy, and full of 
activity, scores of factories being arranged along the river. S. of this 
line is a range of lofty and abrupt heights, on which is another tier of 
villages (St. Clair, Allentown, Mt. Washington, and Union), which are 
j occupied by residences, and are reached by inclined planes. A short and 
interesting excursion may be made by crossing the Suspension Bridge, 
and turning to the r. to the station of the Mt. Washington Inclined 
Plane. Cars are drawn up every few minutes (6c.) by stationary engines 
above, the track rising 370 ft. perpendicular in a distance of 640 ft. 
From tlie balcony of the upper station is afforded (if the smoke will 
allow) a bird's-eye view of the cities, hills, and rivers, the busy activities 
of the valley, the converging railroads, and the many bridges. Birming- 
ham is the seat of the Pittsburgh, Tremont, Flint, and other glass-works, 
the Monongahela, Ormsby, Birmingham, and other iron-works, rolling- 
mills, fomidries, nail, bolt, tube, and steel works. On the heights above 



356 Route 50. ALLEGHENY CITY. 

are seen St. Michael's Church, the Passionist Monastery of St. Paul, and 
the Franciscan Convent, From the foot of the hill (Mt. Oliver), at 
12th St., an inclined-plane railway ascends 250 ft. perpendicular in a 
course of 1,600 ft. From its upper terminus another broad view is 
gained, and a yet better prospect is that from the platform of the monas- 
tery church. 

■ Allegheny City (population, 55,000) is N, W. of Pittsburgh, and 
i •! connected with it by 5 briilges over the Allegheny River and by 2 
horse-railroads. There are many factories in the river- wards, and on tie 
])ills are the pleasant homes of Pittsburgh merchants. A narrow but 
verdant parkway extends around the centre of the city. On the East 
Park is a bronze statue of an American artillerist, erected in honor of the 
Hampton Battery of Allegheny, which distinguished itself in the Civil 
War. The City Hall, Allegheny Library, and Market are on the square, 
at the crossing of Ohio and Federal Sts. Passing W. by St. Peter's 
Church (a new and costly building, with a bas-relief of the Ascension 
over the door), the stern and frowning walls of the * Western State 
Penitentiary are seen on the r. This building was erected m 1818-26, 
and is of gray stone in castellated architecture. There are 460 convicts. 
The Penitentiary is open for visitors from 2 to 4.30 P.M. daily (except 
Saturday and Sunday). The Park is adorned with a monument to Baron 
Humboldt, and has several small ponds. It is traversed on sunken grades 
by the P., Ft. Wayne & Chicago R. R. Ohio and Ridge Sts. run W., 
and have some fine residences. The latter passes the Orphan Asylum 
and the plain buildings of the Western Theolorjical Seminary (Presby- 
terian ; founded 1825), which has 5 professors, 70 students, and 935 
alunmi. The United Pres. Theol. Seminary is also in Allegheny City, 
and has 3 professors, 36 students, and 426 alumni. On tlie outer crest of 
the thin .and lofty ridge which runs toward the Allegheny River is a 
stately * monument which is visible from all parts of the valley. The 
column (from whose minaret-like upper railing the cities are overlooked) 
is surmounted by a colossal bronze female figure, below which are statues 
of a sailor, infantryman, cavalryman, and artillerist. This monument 
was ''erected to the memory of the 4,000 brave men of Allegheny Coimty 
who fell in the great struggle to maintain the integrity of our Union." 
From this summit the Ohio River may be seen for many miles, and to the 
N. is the Allegheny Observatory. Millvale, Etna, and Sharpsburg are 
factory-villages on the Allegheny, N. E. of the city, . In the W. is the 
JJ. S. Marine Hospital and the House of Refuge. 

In the winter of 1753 George "Washington was sent into the W. by the Virginian 
authorities, and carefully examined the site of Pittsburgh. On his return he ad- 
vised that a fort should be built there to checis the advance of the Frencli on tlie 
Ohio, aud in 1754 this was done. Scarcely was it finished when a peremptory 



PITTSBURGH. Route 51. 357 

summons was sent " Fi'om the Commander-in-Chief of his Most Christian Maj- 
esty's troops, now on the Beautiful Rivei", to the commander of those of Great 
Britain." Contrecoeur and 1,000 men soon appeared before the fort and com- 
pelled its surrender. The French army then built Fort Duquesne, and soon 
afterward defeated Braddock's army (see page 35.S). In 1758 a Moravian named 
Post detached many of the Indians from the French interest, and later in the 
same year Major Lewis advanced against the fort with 800 men, but was defeated 
under its walls with a loss of 270 killed and many wounded. A few weeks later 
Gen. Forbes approached with a large force, and the fort was blown up and evacu- 
ated. It was rebuilt by the English, garrisoned by 200 Virginians, and named 
Fort Pitt. In 1759 Gen. Stanwix built a large pentagonal fort on tliis site, sur- 
rounded by a ditch and defended by artillery (costing $ 300,000). It was vainly 
besieged by swarms of Indians in 1763, and was relieved by Boquet's troops, who 
only reached it after a severe battle, in which they lost 124 killed and hundreds 
wounded. In 1764 a town was laid out near the fort, on manor lands of the Penn 
family, and in 1770 it had 20 log-houses. 

There are 1 1 blast furnaces in the city, and about 500 large factories. The re- 
ceipts in 1873 were 631,182 tons of iron ; 115,065,146 bushels of coal ; 34,230,500 
bushels of coke ; and 25,035,182 barrels of crude petroleum. There are about 60 
oil-refineries here, valued at §8,000,000, and handling immense quantities of 
petroleum (for which Pittsburgh is the chief market in the world). The coal- 
trade amounts to over -S 10,000,000 a year. There are 60 glass-factories in the city, 
employing 5,000 men, and turning out $4-5,000,000 worth of glass every year. 
The iron-works are of enormous extent, — including 60 foundries, 30 rolling-mills, 
and 6 steel mills. The American Iron-Works alone employ 2,500 men, and cover 
17 acres of ground. There are 8 copper-factories and 5 brass-works. The Fort 
Pitt Works have made immense numbers of cannon, with mountains of shot and 
sliell. The value of Pittsburgh's manufactures in 1874 was $ 109,693,205. 

Pittsburgh to the West. 

1. The Pittsburgh, Cincinnati & St. Louis R. R. (" Pan Handle Route ") 
runs from Pittsburgh to Steubenville in 43 M. ; to Columbus, 193 ; to 
Xenia, 248; to Cincinnati, 313; to Louisville, 423; to St. Louis, 653.— 
To Chicago, 507 M. ; fare, 1 14. 

2. The Pittsburgh, Fort Wa;y^le & Chicago R, R. runs to Homewood, 
35 M. (see Route 52); Canton, 102; Crestline, 189; Fort Wayne, 320; 
and Chicago, 458 (fare, $ 14). 

3. The Cleveland & Pittsburgh R. R. runs N. W. by Rochester and 
Alliance to Cleveland iu 150 M. 

51. Pittsburgh to Titusville and Buffalo. The Penn. Oil 
Regions. 

By the Allegheny Valley R. R. and the Buffalo, Corry & Pittsburgh R. R. in 10- 
14 hrs. The line ascends the picturesque Allegheny Valley for 130 M., passing 
the great works of the petroleum wells and tanks. Fares, Pittsburgh to Kitta- 
ning, $1.55 ; to Brady's Bend, .$2.40 ; to Oil City, $4.60. 

Stations. — Pittsburgh ; McCandless, 3 M. ; Sharpsburg, 4; Brilliant, 6; Ire- 
land, 7; Armstrong, 9; Verona, 10; Edgewater, 11; Hulton, 12; Logan's Ferry, 
16 ; Parnassus, 17 ; Arnold's, 19 ; Tai-entum, 20 ; Cliartiers, 22 ; Soda Works, 27 ; 
W. Penn. Junction, 29 ; White Rock, 33 ; Kelly's, 35 ; Rosston, 39 ; Kittaning, 44 ; 
Cowanshannock, 48 ; Pine Creek, 49 ; Mahoning, 55 ; Red Bank, 64 ; Phillips- 
burg, 66; Brady's Bend, 68 ; Catfish, 71; Parkers, 82; Foxburg, 85; Emlenton, 
89 ; Scrubgrass, 106 ; Foster, 115 ; Franklin, 123 ; Oil City, 128 ; Rouseville, 132 ; 
Petroleum Centre, 135; Titusville, 146; Centreville, 157; Corry, 174; Buffalo, 
Cori-y & Pittsburgh R. R. — Corry Junction, 185 ; Clymer, 188 ; Panama, 195; Sher- 
man, 199; Mayville, 205; Prospect, 211; Brocton,219; Buffalo, 268. 



358 Route 51. KITTANING. 

Tlie train leaves the Union Depot at Pittsbvirgh and runs out through 
miles of factories and works, dra\vn up in dark lines along the Allegheny 
River. The Allegheny U. S. Arsenal grounds are crossed, and at Sharps- 
burg station a bridge leads over the river to Sharpshurg, the seat of 
great iron-works. The track sweeps around by Brilliant, which is under 
Brilliant Hill, and follows the river close at hand around a succession of 
broad bends, with a general direction to the N. E. The scenery is bold 
and pleasing, the broad river flowing freely between high hills. The 
river-villages are small and uncomely. At about 30 M . from Pittsburgh 
the train intersects the W, Penn. R. R. and crosses the Kiskimineta» 
River, Beyond the busy village of Freeport the line passes the White 
Rock Eddy and reaches Kittaning {Rnjnolds House ; Wilson), the capi- 
tal of Armstrong County. This borough lias about 2,000 inhabitants, and 
is in a prolific coal and limestone region, from whose mines its furnaces 
are fed. Kittaning holds the site and name of an Indian town which was 
attacked by Armstrong and 300 men, at dawn on Aug. 8, 1757. The In- 
dians refused to surrender, and were killed in detail, while the town was 
set on fire and destroyed. The train runs N. to a long bend near which 
the Mahoning Creek is crossed at its confluence with the Allegheny. 

From Red Bank the Eastern Extension R. R. is being built across Jefferson, 
Cleaiiiekl, and Elk Counties to Driftwood, on the Phila. & Erie R. R. It is now 
completed to Brookville (Americnn House ; Franklin), the capital of Jefferson 
County, and to the hamlet of RcynoldsviUe. Brookville is 1,.SOO ft. above the sea, 
in a vast pine-forest, whose trees are cut and sawed here, and are rafted to the 
Allegheny River. 

The train now passes around a bend in the river, which almost makes a 

circle, and reaches Brady's Bend {Central House), an important town 

situated on a great curve of the Allegheny River. It was commenced 

late in 1869, and now has 5,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, and 2 papers. 

ITie Brady's Bend Iron-Works employ about 1,200 men in making rails; 

and large forces are busied in the trans-shipment of oil. 

The Modoc Oil District is near Brady's Bend, where its oil is shipped. It 
is of recent development, and the Karns City R. R. is to cross it. Greece City 
was founded in Oct., 1872, at the Morrison Well, which yielded 500 barrels a day. 
It has 1,200 inhabitants, 2 banks, and 5 hotels. Modoc City has 1,000 inhabi- 
tants, and 13 wells which produce 40,000 barrels a day. Stages run from Brady's 
Bend and Parker City to Fairview {Adams House), which is on a high hill over- 
looking the oleaginous "cities " of Karns and Petroha. 

The train runs on to Parker's Landing {Phillips House ; Wallace), 
and the derricks of tlie oil-wells are seen from time to time, remote ou 
the hills or close to tlie track ; sometimes in operation, but oftener de- 
serted. Crossing tlie Clarion River, Emlentown is passed and the line is 
followed around great loops of the river. At the Gregory House at 
Scrubgrass station is a dining-room for passengers on the through trains, 
Franklin (* ExclwMrje ; National ; U. S. ) is now seen on the W. shore, 
and is a well-built city of about 5,000 inhabitants, with 2 papers, 2 banks. 



OIL CITY. Route 51. 359 

and 3 oil-refineries. It is the capital of Venango County, and occupies 

the site of the French Fort Venango, on the ridge at the confluence of 

French Creek and the Allegheny River. 

Fort Venango was built here in 1753, as one of the great chain of French mili- 
tary posts which hemmed in the American colonies. 700 French troops and 7,000 
Indian auxiliaries were gathered here just before the Conquest of Canada (1750). 
After that event it was held by the Americans, bnt was taken in 1763 and the 
garrison was massacred to a man, — the commandant being slowly roasted to 
death through several days. 

Steamers run from Franklin to Pittsburgh, and a branch of the A. & 
G. W. R. R. ascends the valley of French Creek to Meadville (see page 
237). From Franklin the train runs N. E. by the rapid river to Oil City, 
which is picturesquely situated on the W. shore. 

Oil City {Duncan House; Petroleum House) is located at the con- 
fluence of Oil Creek on the Allegheny River. It was foimded in 1860, 
organized in 1862, destroyed by flood in 1865, destroyed by fire (loss, 
% 1,000,000) in 1866, and incorporated as a city in 1871. There are 2,276 
inhabitants, with 1 daily paper, 2 banks, and 8 religious societies. It is 
an important railroad centre, and is the head-quarters of the petroleum 
trade (in which $25,000,000 are invested). The wells in the vicinity ]iro- 
duce 600 barrels daily, and 2,000,000 barrels are shipped hence yearly. 
There are iron tanks here for 500,000 barrels, connected with lines of 
tubing by which the oil is drawn out into the tank-cars and river steam- 
ers. Within a very small area the tourist may see all the processes con- 
nected with this traffic, — boring, pumping, refining, barrelling, gauging, 
and shipment. The air is filled with the strong odor of petroleum, and the 
lower streets seem to be saturated with the precious fluid. The narrow 
space along the river is occupied by the railroads and business houses, and 
above this is a tall bluff" wliich is occupied by residences. 

The Oil Creek & Alleghenn Paver R. R. runs N. E. from Oil City to Irvineton, on 
the Phila. & Erie R. R. (50 M.). From the hamlet of Oleopolis a branch R. R. runs 
7 M. N. E. to Pitliole City. Tlie U. S. W ell was opened here in the winter of 
1864-65, and yielded 7,000 barrels a day. Great multitudes flocked hitherward, 
and within six months there arose in the wilderness a city of 15,0(10 inhabitants, 
with 2 theatres and an academy of music, a dailv paper, and 72 hotels and saloons 
Now but 9 families live in the place ; and the great hotel, which cost $31,000, was 
sold ui the winter of 1873 - 74 for S 100. The Allegheny River is closely followed 
by the train through a rugged and thinly populated country ; passmg Rouseville 
(Rathbun House), in a forest of abandoned derricks; Tionesta ; and Tidioute 
(tihaw House), with its iron-works. Irvineton, see Route 55. 

The Buffalo train runs N. from Oil City up the valley of Oil Creek, 
passing great lines of derricks, tanks, and the rude shanties of the oil men. 
Occasionally the pumping-engines are seen at work; but in the majority 
of cases the derricks are abandoned, and stand as monuments over de- 
parted hopes. Petroleum Centre (Centi-al House) is a village of 1,500 in- 
habitants; beyond which the train reaches Titusville {* Parshall House, 
$3 a day; Mansion House, $2), the chief city in the Pennsylvania 



3 GO RoiUe 51. TITUSVILLE. 

oil district. It is agreeably situated in the valley of Oil Creek, -which is 
here 1 M. wide, and is surrounded by prominent hills. By ascending tho 
path near Cliurch liun, a point is reached whence the valley may be over- 
looked. The streets are broad and straight, and are lined with bright aiul 
spick-and-span wooden houses, each with its bit of garden-land. There 
are 8,630 inhabitants, with 2 daily papers, 4 banks, and 9 churches. The 
business street is lined with new brick blocks, and the environs contain 
many oil-wells and refineries. There are 3 large iron- works, chiefly en- 
gaged in making engines, tubing, and tanks. 

The petroleum business had its origin at Titnsville. This oil was formerly 
prized by the Heneca Indians ou account of its supposed inediciual projierties, 
and a tract on Oil Creek (X. Y.) was reserved by them at the Jinal sale of their 
domains. The settlers in this district were accustomed to collect the oil by skim- 
ming it from the water in shallow vats and trenthes, until the arrival of Col. 
Drake, in 1859. This gentleman bored the first well (1 M. S. of Titusville), and ou 
removing the tools a copious flow of gas and oil commenced. At that time Titus- 
ville had aOO inhabitants ; at jiresent its refineries are only third lo those of 
Cleveland and Pittsburgh. Many wells were sunk in the viciiiify soon after, and 
with varying success ; but the product Iruni the whole district was so great that 
by 1861 petroleum had fallen to 25c. a barrel. The Empire Well yielded 2,500 
barrels daily, and the Phillips Well gave 3,940 barrels. In 1863 the production 
slackened, and the prices rose proi>ortionately. During tliis period vast fortunes 
were made rapidly, and were aiterwards scattered with almost equal sieed. In 
the first 12 yeai-s of "the develojiment " there were taken from this district 
42,000,000 ban-els of oil, valued at .-ji 168,000,000. This territoi-y is about 400 scpiare 
miles in extent, and contains 4,000 wells, with new ones going down monthly (in 
prosperous times). 5,000 steam-engines are employed, and there are now in use 
3,000 M. of iron-pipe and 25,000 M. of drilling cable. 4 fiist-dass railroads have 
been built to carry out this vast production ; and the fleets of the oil-exporters 
are found on every sea. Tlu; foreign trade has increased rapidly, and the 10,000,000 
gallons of the export in 1862 were increased to 55,000,000 gallons in 1871. 

The Union & Titusville Jt. R. runs 25 M. N. W. from Titusville to Union City, 
on the Phila. & Erie and the Atlantic & Great Western R. Rs. The Dunkirk, 
Allegheny Valley £ Pittsburgh R. R. runs from Titusville 91 M. N. to Dunkirk. At 
first it rims N. E. 20 M. through an unpopulated region; then turns E. on the 
line of the Phila. & Erie R. R., and passes from Garland to Warren ; and there di- 
verges to the N. and I'ollows the Conewago River into New York, where it runs 
through the Chautauque County hills for 42 M. ; latterly passing the brisk village 
of Fredonia, and reaching Dunkirk (see page 231). 



The Buffalo train runs N. from Titusville, and after passing several ob- 
scure villages of Crawford County, crosses the State Road near Spartans- 
burg, and enters Erie County, advancing to Corry, where the P. & E. R. 
R. and the A. k G. W. R. R. are intersected. 

Corry {Dirwner House, comfortable ; aS"^. Nicliolas) is a new city, which 
derives its origin and importance from the location at the entrance to the 
*' Oildorado," and from the intersection here of several railroads. The 
streets are broad and straight, but tlie houses are generally inferior. Tlie 
site of Corry was covered by a forest until June, 1861, when the Atlantic 
& Great Western R. R. crossed the Phila. k Erie R. R. here, and a small 
board-shanty Avas put up at the junction. . Later in the year the Downer 
Oil Co. (of Boston ) sent out an agent to locate an oil refinery. He chose this 



ECONOMY. R<mte52. 361 

little flag-crossing (named Corry after a neighboring farmer), and bouglit 
60 acres of laud. The great Downer Oil Works were then put up, other 
enterprises followed, and a rapid growth began after the railroad was 
built into the oil regions. In 1866 Corry became a city, and it now has 
6,809 inhabitants (census of 1870), 76 streets, 2 daily papers, 2 banks, and 
8 churches. 

The line (locally known as '' The Cross-Cut ") runs N. from Corry into 
N. Y. State, where it crosses the whole extent of Chautauqua County. 
Mayville is beautifully situated at the head of Chautauqua Lake (see 
page 237) ; and Brocton is on the shore of Lake Erie, near the Harris 
Community, a singular religious colony which settled here in 1868. They 
are semi-Swedenborgian in their views, but are very reticent about their 
doctrines of " the new life." They own 2,000 acres, on which are prolific 
vineyards. Salem-mi-EHe is a pretty handet in this vicinity. Passen- 
gers for Buffalo change cars at Brocton, and ride to their destination on 
the Lake Shore & M. S. R. R. (see page 236). 

52. Pittsburgh to Erie. 

By the Pittsburgh, Fort "Wayne & Chicago R. R., the New Castle Branch, the 
Erie & Pittsburgli R. R., and the Lake Shore & M. S. R. R. Through trains from 
Pittsburgh to Erie in 7-8 hrs. 

Stations. — Pittsburgh ; Allegheny City, 1 M. ; Manchester ; Dixmont ; Se- 
wickley, 13 ; Economy, 18 ; Baden, 21 ; Freedom, 24 ; Rochester, 26 ; New Brighton. 
29; Homewood. 35; Clinton, 38; Moravia, 44; Lawrence Junction, 47 ; New 
Castle, 50. E. & P. R. 7i. — Harbor Bridge, 54; Pulaski, 61; Middlesex, 65; 
Wheatland, 68 ; Sliaron, 71 ; Sharpsville, 74 ; Clarksville, 77 ; A. & G. W. Cross- 
ing, 83; Shenango, 84; Greenville, 85; Jamestown, 92; Kasson's, 99; Espyville, 
101; Linesvillc, 105 ; Summit, 109; Conneautville, 113; Spring, 116; Albion, 
122 ; Crosses, 128 ; Girard, 133 ; Fairview, 137 : Swainville, 140; Erie, 148. 

The train departs from the Union Railroad Depot in Pittsburgh, and 
crosses the Allegheny River with tlie Hand Street and Allegheny Bridges 
on the 1., and the Mechanics' Bridge on the r. Traversing the streets of 
Allegheny City, the Park and the Western Penitentiary are seen on the 
r., and on the 1. is the lofty soldiers' monument. Beyond the municipal 
limits the Ohio River is approached, and the U. S. Marine Hospital is 
seen on the 1. The line now runs N. W. through a series of suburban 
villages which are dependent on Pittsburgh, with the Ohio on the 1., and 
the long Neville's Island. At Economy is the large village which was 
founded in 1825 by the German Harmonites. The priest and patriarch of 
this sect was George Rapp, wlio claimed to have received a Divine lega- 
tion to restore the Christian Churcli to its pristine purity and simplicity. 
He led his proselytes from Germany to America, and founded a flourish- 
ing colony at Economy. The principle of a community of property was 
the chief secular characteristic, and the colonj'^ soon increased to 800 per- 
sons, with large estates and manufactories. The village was widely famed 
for its singular neatness, simplicity, and comfort; and the fine and lus- 
16 



3G2 Rmte52. NEW CASTLE. 

trous silks which were made here were highly prized in the East. The 

borough now has 1,324 inhabitants. The train runs W. from Economy to 

Rochester (Pavilion; Doncaster House), a busy town at the confluence of 

the Ohio and Beaver Rivers. 

The Cleveland & Pittslmrgh R. i?. diverges here and follows the r. bank of the 
Ohio River, running !o Bellaire (Wlieeling), 68 M. S. W., and to Cleveland, 124 M. 
1 M. S. W. of Rochester it passes Beaver (National Hotel), the capital of Beaver 
County, a boi-ough of 1,120 inhabitants, situated on a fertile intervale near the 
Ohio. The Frankfort Springs are 22 M. S. of this point, and are locally famed as 
remedies for dyspepsia, rheumatism, and cutaneous diseases. The Cave and the 
Leiper Springs are the most important, and contain carbonates of iron and mag- 
nesia, muriate of soda, and sulphuretted hj'drogen. The C & P. train passes On 
from Beaver to WdlsvUle (Whitacre House), Avhere the road forks, one division 
running N. W. to Cleveland (102 M.), the other running S. to Bellaire (46 M.). 

The Erie train now turns N. np the Beaver River, and passes the popu- 
lous boroughs of New Brighton (Keystone House), and Beaver Falls, de- 
voted to manufacturing and situated at the falls on Beaver River, where 
that stream descends 75 ft. in a succession of short pitches between rocky 
banks. At Humewood the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago R. R. 
diverges to the 1., and enters Ohio about 15 M. W. ; and at Lawrence 
Junction the Ashtabula, Youngstown & Pittsburgh R. R. turns off to the 
N. W, New Castle is a city of 12,000 inhabitants, with 14 churches, 4 
banks, 4 weekly papers, and considerable manufactories, especially of 
iron and glass. It is favorably situated at the confluence of the Shenango 
River and Neshanock Creek, and is the capital of Lawrence County. 

At New Castle the train passes on to the rails of the Erie h Pittsburgh 
R. R., and runs N. W. up the valley of the Shenango River. At Sharon 
{Shenango Hotel ; Hanson) the line approaches within 1 M. of the Ohio 
line; and the Mahoning Division of the Atlantic & Great Western Rail- 
way runs thence N, W. to Cleveland (80 M,). Sharon has 4,221 inhabi- 
tants, and is engaged in coal business and the iron manufacture. The 
line now runs N. E. and approaches the Atlantic k Great Western Rail- 
way (see page 238), and beyond the transfer and crossing points it reaches 
the villages of Shenango and Greenville. 

The Shenango £• Allegheny R. R. runs 33 M. S. E. from Greenville to Harrisville, 
passing the pleasant rural village of Mercer, the capital of Mercer County. 
The Franklin Division of the Lake Shore & M. S. R. R. extends from Ashtabula 
to Oil City (50 M.), and crosses the present route at Jamestown. 

Conneautville {Hohnan House) is a village of about 1,000 inhabitants, 
with 5 churches and a weekly paper. It is surrounded by a rich agri- 
cultural country, and is a shipping-point for dairy-products. The village 
is 2 M. E, of the station, and 8-9 M. S. E. is Conneaat Lake (see page 
238). The train runs due N. to Lake Erie, where it turns to the N. E. 
on the line of the Lake Shore & M. S. R. R., and soon reaches the city 
of Erie (see Route 55). 



STEUBENVILLE. Route 53. 3G3 



53. Pittsburgh to Wheeling. 

By the Chartiers R. R. and the Hempfield R. R. These lines meet at Washing- 
ton, but do not make connections; and the traveller by this route is obliged to 
wait there several hours. 

Stations. — CJuxrtiers R. R. — Pittsburgh; Mansfield, 8; Leasdale, 9; Wood- 
ville, 10 ; Bridgeville, 12 ; Boyce's, 15 ; Hill's, 17 ; Canonsburg, 22 ; Ewing's 
Mills, 26; Cook's, 28; Washington, 31. Hem-jifield R. R. (Wheeling, Pittsburgh 
& Baltimore Division of the Bait. & Ohio R. R.). — Chartiers, 35 ; 'Taylorstown, 
38 ; Claysville, 42 ; Vienna, 45 ; W. Alexander, 47 ; Valley Grove, 51 ; Point 
Mills, 53; Triadelphia, 57; Carbon, 59; Mt. De Chantal, 61; Wheeling, 62. 

The " Pan-Handle Route " to the W. leaves Pittsburgh and crosses 
the Monongahela River, passing the factories of the lower South Side 
Boroughs. Beyond the small villages of Allegheny and Washington 
Counties, it crosses W. Virginia and enters the State of Ohio, and at 43 
M. from Pittsburgh reaches Steubenville (United States Hotel), the 
capital of Jefferson County. It is finely situated on high ground on 
the r. bank of the Ohio River, and is surrounded by a fruitful country. 
There are 8,107 inhabitants, with 12 churches, 2 banks, a daily and 
several weekly papers, and large manufactories, whicli are supplied with 
fuel from the coal-ndues in the vicinity. 



The Chartiers R. R. crosses the Monongahela River at Pittsburgh, 
diverges from the Pan-Handle Route at Mansfield, and follows the 
Chartiers Creek to the S. W. for many miles. At Canonsburg is the 
Jefferson Theological Seminary of the Presbyterian Chui'ch, occupying 
the curious old stone buildings of the Jefferson College, which was 
founded here in 1773, and held its first academic sessions in a log-cabin. 
Washington is next reached, and occupies a pleasant situation on high 
ground on the old National Road. It is a prosperous borough of nearly 
4,000 inhabitants, and is the capital of Washington County. Washing- 
ton and Jefferson College is located here, and is under the care of the 
Presbyterian Church. This institution has 10 professors and 118 stu- 
dents, and since its foundation, in 1806, has graduated the large number 
(for a rural college) of 3,000 men. The fertile county of Washington is 
devoted to grain and pasturage, and was settled by Scotch-Irish Presby- 
terians, a virtuous and resolute class of men who have left to their 
descendants the liabits and creeds of the old land. 

At Washington the traveller leaves the Chartiers R. R., and takes the 
train on the Wheeling, Pittsburgh and Baltimore Division (Hempfield 
R. R. ) of the Bait. & Ohio R. R. The line runs S. W. through a hilly 
region, traversing several tunnels, and following the line of the old 
National Road. Beyond W. Alexandria it enters the State of W. 
Virginia, and soon reaches Wheeling (see Route 65). 



364 Route 54. CONNELLSVILLE, 

54. Pittsburgh to Cumberland. 

The Cwuiellsville Route. 

By the Pittsburgh, Washington & Baltimore R. R., which runs through to 
AVashingtoii in 13 - 14 hrs., and to Baltimore in 15^ - 16 hrs. Fares, — Pittsburgh 
to Connellsville, $ 2 ; to Confluence, >? 2.9o ; to Cumberland, $ 5.20. 

Stations. — Pittsburgh ; Solio, 2 ; Laughlin'.s, 3 ; Hazelwood, 4 ; Glenwood, 5 ; 
Brown's, (j ; Mills', 9 ; Braddock's, 10 ; Port Perry, 11 ; Saltsburg, 12 ; Riverton, 
14; MeKeesport, 15; Long Run, 17; Osceola, 20; Coultersville, 22; Guffey's, 24; 
Moore's, 28; Amieville, 30; W. Newton, 33; Port Royal, 37; Jacob's Creek, 40; 
Oakdale, 49 ; Laurel Run, 60 ; Sedgwick, 53 ; Broad Ford Junction, 55 (branch to 
Mt. Pleasant, 65) ; Connellsville, 57 (branch to Uniontown, 71) ; 8and Works, 60 ; 
Indian Creek, 65 ; Stewarton, 69 : Ohio Pyle, 74 ; Egypt, 79 ; Confluence, 84 ; Ur- 
sina, 86 ; Fort Hill Siding, 89 ; f'orge Bridge, 94 ; Cassellman, 96 ; Mineral Point 
Junction, 101 ; Garrett's, 108 ; Yoder's, 109 ; Meyer's Mills, 113 ; Sand Patch, 116 ; 
Bowman's, 120; Gle.neoe, 126 ; Fairhope, 1.30 ; Bridgeport, 135 ; Cook's Mills, 141 ; 
Mt. Savage Junction, 146 ; Cumberland, 150 (Washington, 300 ; Baltimore, 340). 

The train emerges from the Pittsburgli station, and (after passing Grant 
Hill) run.s E. and S. E. along the Monongahela River, with the busy 
South Side Boroughs on the opposite shore. Several suburban stations 
are passed, and beyond Braddock's (opposite the field of battle, see page 
353) the train passes tlie tracks at Port Perry Junction, which diverge to 
the Penn. R. R. McKees2)ort is a borough of 2,523 inhabitants, situated 
at the confluence of the Monongahela and Yougluogheny Rivers. It is 
engaged in coal-mining and boat-building, and is the seat of the works of 
the American Tube Company. The railroad here turns to the S. E. and 
follows the r. bank of the Youghiogheny for many leagues, with the river 
on the r. hand. The stations are small, and tlie country is thinly settled. 
In the advance are seen the long heights of Chestnut Ridge. Connells- 
ville (Smith's Hotel) is a large village with maniifactories of woollen 
goods, paper, iron-wares, etc. A bridge crosses the river to the factory 
village of New Haven. The hill scenery in this vicinity is quite pictu- 
resque, and there is a famous view from the Cow Rock, on the ridge which 
towers for 1,300 ft. over the town. '•' Near the Cow Rock, on the broad, 
flat summit of the mt., stand rows of pulpit rocks, relics of the eroded 
edge of the soft yellow sandstone of the Coal Conglomerate." 

The Soutliivestern Penn. R. R. runs N. from Connellsville to Greensburg (see 
page 352) in 24 M. The Mt. Pleasant Branch runs N. E. (diverging from Broad 
Ford, 2 M. distant, on the main line) to Mount Pleasant borough, in 10 M. The 
Fayette County Branch runs S. W. along the base of Laurel Ridge, i)assing Mt. 
Braddoek and ending at Uniontown (Messmore House), 14 M. distant. This is a 
compact borough of 2,503 inhabitants, and is situated on the National Road, 4 M. 
W. of Laurel Ridge. The surrounding country has a fertile limestone soil, and is 
occupied by many profltable farms. Bituminous coal is found in the vicinity, and 
469,450 tons were shipped from this county in 1870. Madison College was 
founded at Uniontown in 1825, by the Methodists. 9 M. S. E. of Uniontown, on 
the summit of Laurel Ridge, is a remarkable cavern with large subterranean halls 
and narrow passages. Stages run from Uniontown over Laurel Ridge to the 
Fayette Springs (Fayette Springs Hotel), 12 M. S. E. These waters are a pure, 
strong clialyoeate, and are much visited in summer, although perhaps the chief 
attraction is found in the beauty of the hiU-scenery in this vicinity, and the purity 



GREAT MEADOWS. Route 55. 3G5 

of the highland air. The Washington Spring and the Chalk Hill Hotel are within 
easy drive of the Springs House. 

In this vicinity are the Great Meadows, where Major George Washington, of the 
Virginia militia, ei'ected Fort NecessUii (May, 1754), whence lie advanced and de- 
feated JuniDuville's French detachment, 5 M. N. on Laurel Ridge. On July 3 he 
was besieged here by M. de Villiers with 900 men, and was soon forced to surren- 
der, being allowed to lead his 400 soldiers back to Virginia. Near this point Gen. 
Braddock (see page 353) died, on the 15th of July, 1755, and was buried at night 
in the road, while Washington read the funeral service of the Episcopal Church, 
by torch liglit. Part of Burgoyne's remains were afterwards carried away by 
curiosity-seekers ; but the rest are interred in a I'udely marked grave near the 
National Road (1 M. W. of Fort Necessity). ^ 

The Cumberland train rims S. E. from Connellsville through the pic- 
turesque water-gap in Laurel Ridge, and follows the Youghiogheuy 
through a wild and thinly populated region. Beyond the romantic 
scenery ahout the Ohio-Pile Falls, and the dark ravine in which the line 
passes between the Sugar-Loaf and Red Mts., it diverges to the N, E. 
up the valley of Castleman River. From Mineral Point Junction a 
branch line runs N. E. to Somerset, a small borough and the capital of 
the Germanic county of Somerset, well situated on a knoll over the great 
highland glades which extend between the Laurel Ridge and the Alle- 
gheny Mts. The surrounding country contains large reserves of coal. 
The train now rounds on the r. the long ridge of Negro Mt., which i"uns 
N. from Maryland, and traverses the Glades to the S. E. , ascending long 
grades and crossing the Allegheny Mts. beyond Summit Mills. Travers- 
ing in succession the Savage Ridge and the Little Allegheny, the line 
turns S. in the narrow valley between the latter and Wills Mt. (on the 
S. E. ). At Bridgeport the Huntington & Broad Top R. R. (see page 347) 
meets the present route, and the train soon enters the State of Maryland.. 
15 M. from Bridgeport the train reaches Cumberland (sec Route 65). 

bb. Philadelphia to Erie. 

By the Phila. & Erie R. R. ; a favorite route to Western N. Y. and the oil and 
lumber regions of Penn. This line is controlled by the Penn. R. R., and its trains 
run on the Penn. tracks to Harrisburg. There are 3 express-trains daily be- 
tween Phila. and Lock Haven, and 2 daily between Phila. and Erie (furnished 
Avith Pullman cars). Fares. — Phila. to Lewisburg, ^5.30 ; to Williamsport, $G ; 
to Elniira, §7.50; to Renovo, 'S7.84; to Emporium, $8.65 ; to Buffalo, ig.l0.15; 
to Ridgway, i^ 9 ; to Corry, $ 10.50 ; to Oil City, Jjf 11 30 ; to Erie, § 10.75. Also to 
Minnequa, $7.45; to Watkins, $8.15; to Roche.ster, 8 9.75; to Niagara Falls, 
$ 10.75 ; to Toronto, $ 13.75 ; to Chicago, $20 ; to San Francisco, $137.50. 

Stations. — Phila. ; Coatesville, 39 M. ; Lancaster, Gi) ; Harrisburg, 105 ; 
Dauphin, 117; Clark's Ferry, 124; Halifax, 130; Millersburg, 136; Liverpool, 
139;Mahantango, 143; Georgetown, 146; Trevorton Junction, 151 ; Fisher's Ferry, 
156; Selinsgrove, 158; Sunbury, 163; Northumberland, 165; Lewisburg Junction, 
172; Catawissa Junction, 175; Milton, 176; Watsontown, 180 ; Dewart, 182; Mont- 
gomery, 187 ; Muncy, 191 ; Williamsi)ort, 203 ; Newberry. 205 ; Linden, 208 ; Sus- 
quehanna, 209; Jersey Shore, 215; Pine, 220; Wayne,' 223 ; Lock Haven, 228; 
Queen's Run, 232 ; Farrandsville, 233 ; Ferney, 238 ; Whetham, 243 ; Ritchie, 
246 ; Hyner, 249 ; North Point, 252 ; Renovo, 255 ; Westport, 261 ; Cook's Run, 
265 ; Keating, 268 ; Wistar, 270 ; Round Island, 273 ; Grove, 277 ; Sinnemaho- 
uing, 280 ; Driftwood, 283 ; Sterling, 292 ; Cameron, 296 ; Emporium Jmiction, 301 ;- 



366 Route 55. SELINSGROVE. 

Emporium. 302 ; West Creek, 303 ; Beechwood, 311 ; Ratlibun, 313 : St. Mary's, 
323 ; Uaguscahouda, 328 ; tthawiiiut, 331 ; Ridgway, 333, Wihiiarth. 341 ; Wilcfix, 
347 ; Sergeant, 352 ; Kane, 356 ; Wetmore, 362 ; Ludlow, 305 ; Roystone. 309 ; 
Slieffield, 372 ; Tiona, 375 ; Clarendon, 379 ; Stonehani, 380 ; Warren, 385 ; Irvine- 
ton, 391 ; Youngsville, 393 ; Pittslield, 397 ; Garland, 401 ; Spring Creek, 407 ; 
Columbus, 412 ; Corry, 414 ; Lovell's, 417 ; Concord, 419 ; Inion, 425 ; Le Eoeuf, 
423; Waterford, 432; Jackson's, 438; Langdon's, 442; Belle Valley, 444; Erie, 
451. 

Philadelpliia to Harrisburg, see Route 50. 

From Harrisburg the Erie train takes the line of the Northern Central 
R. R. to Sunbury. On leaving Harrisburgh, tlie broad Susquehanna is 
followed to the N. W. through a bold pass in the Blue Mt. Beyond tlse 
long bridges of the 2 railroads another deep gap is traversed, and the 
train approaches the dark ridge of Peter's Mt., which inwalls the fair 
valley called The Cove. At Dauphin the Schuylkill & Susquehanna 
R. R. diverges to the N. E. (see page 334). Rounding the rugged chain J 
at its point on the Susquehanna, on the 1. are seen the mouth of the 1 
Juniata River and the plains of Duncan's Island (see page 345). Beyond 
the well-populated town of Hcdifax^ the line passes through the water- 
gap of the Susquehanna in Berrie's Mt. and reaches Millersburg, whence 
tlie Summit Branch R. R. (for coal transportation) diverges to the E., 
running for 20 M. through narrow valleys to Williamstmmi, which is 3 - 4 
M. from Tower City (see page 334). The colliery at Williarastowu sliipped 
301,326 tons in 1873, which was the largest annual shipment ever made by 
any American colliery. There are also large deposits and mines of the 
Lykens Valley coal at Big Lick and Short Mt. The Erie train now jjasses 
through the gap in the Mahan tongs Mt., and passes on by Herndon, where 
a long bridge crosses the river to Port Trevor ton. 

The Mahanoy & Shamokin R. R. runs N. E. from Hemdon through the deep 
valleys and mt. -passes of the Mahanoy coal-fields, i)assing the poi)ulous boroughs 
of Shamokin and Mt. Carmel and scores of collieries. Stations* — Herndon ; 
Trevorton, 13| M. ; Shamokin, 21 ; Excelsior, 25 ; Mount Carmel, 27 ; Locust Gap, 
28^- ; Ashland, 35^ ; Girardville, 38.3. From the latter place railroads pass E. and 
S. E. to all parts of the Schuylkill coal-tields (Tamaqua, Mahanoy City, Potts- 
ville, etc.). 

The line now passes between the W. end of the Line Mt. and the river, 
and follows the broad and beautiful Susquehanna through the fertile 
limestone intervales. At Selinsgrove a connection is made with the 
Lewistown Division of the Penn, R. R., whose track here crosses the 
river to the W. (see page 346). Selinsgrove is a borough of 1,453 inhab- 
itants, and is chiefly distinguished as an educational centre, being the seat 
of the Missionary Institute (a religious college of the Lutheran Church, 
■with 6 professors and 140 students) and the Susquehanna Female College 
(a Lutheran institution with 4 professors and 82 students). The train 
passes on to Sunbury {Centred House ; City Hotel), the capital of North- 
umberland County, a borough of 3,131 inhabitants, pleasantly situated 
on the E. shore of the Susquehanna. 



WILLIAMSPORT. Route 55. 367 

The Danville, Hazleton £ Wilkes-Barre R. R runs N. E. from Sunburj' up the 
N. Branch of the Susquehanna, jjassiug Danville and Catawissa (see page 336), 
beyond which it enters the Mainville Water Gap, and runs E. through the Nesco- 
pcc Mts.. amid striking scenery. Through this wild distinct the train passes on 
to Hazleton, where it connects with a branch of the Lehigli Valley R. R. (see 
page 311). Stations. — Sunburj'; Kline's Grove, 5 M. ; Wolvertoii, 6; Kipp's 
Run, 9 ; Danville, 12 ; Roaring Creek, 17; Catawissa, 21; Mainville, 27; Mifflin 
Cross Roads, 30 ; Scotch Valley, 34 ; Woliton, 36 ; Rock Glen, 38 ; Gowen, 40 ; 
Tomhicken, 44 ; Hazleton. 

The train now passes on to the rails of the Phila. d- Erie R. R., and 
crosses the N. Branch of the Susquehanna. Northumberland {Central 
House) is a handsome borough of 1,788 inhabitants, finely situated on the 
point at the confluence of the N. and W. Branches. At this point are 
the termini of the Lewistown Division and the Lackawanna & Blooms- 
Lurg R. R. (Route 57). Passing Montour's Ridge on the r., the train 
reaches Lexoishurg Junctian, whence the Lewisburg Centre & Spruce 
Creek Branch runs S. W. 11 M. to Miffl,inburg^ crossing the Susque- 
hanna, and reaching Lewisburg at 2 M. from the Junction. This is a 
borough of 3,131 inhabitants, and is the seat of Lewisburg University, a 
Baptist institution which dates from 1846, and has 14 instnictors, 216 
students, and a library of about 5,000 volumes. The Erie train passes on 
to Milton (Huff's Hotel), a large village Avhere the Catawissa R. R. comes 
in from the S. E. (see page 336). The train now advances over the allu- 
vial river-side plains, with the Nittany and White Deer Mts. in the W. 
The country is thickly settled and fertile, and the line passes several 
pretty rural hamlets. The Catcnvissa R. R. (see page 336) crosses the 
river below Milton, and follows the W. shore; and about 9 M. above the 
Phila. & Erie also crosses to the W. bank, and intersects the former near 
Montgoimry, at the outlet of the White Deer Valley. The lines run 
parallel for several miles, and then the Catawissa recrosses the river and 
reaches Muncy (whence the Muncy Creek R. R. runs N. E. to Hughes- 
ville). It then follows the 1. bank by the flourisliing borough of 3fontours- 
ville (Putney House), and, crossing the Loyalsock Creek, enters Williams- 
port. The Phila. & Erie R. R. sweeps around the broad Muncy Bend 
under a high ridge, crosses the Susquehanna (W. Branch), and also reaches 

Williamsport (* Herdic House, in gardens near the station, $3 a day; 
* Crawford Hmse, in the city; City H)tel, OY>posite the Court House, 
$2.50), the capital of Lycoming County, and the chief lumber-mart of 
the State. It is situated on the W. Branch of the Susquehanna, and is 
surrounded by high hills, the Bald Eagle Mts. occupying the S. border. 
The streets are wide and straight, and are traversed by horse-cars (on 3d 
and 4th Sts.); and W. 4th St., toward the spacious Herdic House, is lined 
with villas. The county buildings are on 3d St., and the prison is a 
quaint piece of castellated architecture. To the N., at the head of 
Academy St., is the Dickinson Seminary, an extensive pile of brick build- 



368 Route 55. LOCK HAVEN. 

ings accommodating 200 students of both sexes (founded 1847). N. of 
the city is Herdic Park, containing 35 acres of land, and equipped with 
large trout-houses. To the N. W. is the Wildwood Cemetery. The gi-eat 
Susquehmitia Boom extends from Willianisport for 3 - 4 M. up the river, 
with massive piers and braces. It cost over $ 1,000,000, and will hold 
300,000,000 ft. of lumber. In the spring months this boom is so filled with 
logs that the river can be crossed anywhere on a solid floor of timber. During 
the past 10 years the boom has held 8,312,000 logs, equalling 1,643,000,000 
ft. of boards, and valued at .$ 100,000,000. The shipments of lumber for 
the last 4 years amounted to over 900,000,000 ft. The river-front of the ' 
city is lined with basins and saw-mills, the chief of which are the Dodge 
Mills, where 200 men and 200 saws, in the 200 days of the lumbering 
season, make 25,000,000 ft. of boards. The wood is pine and hemlock, 
and the traffic is regulated by the Lumbermen's Exchange (near the Court 
House). The suburbs of Duboistown and Rocktoion are on the S., under 
the Bald Eagle Mts., and are joined to the city by a long and graceful 
suspension-bridge, which ends near the Catawissa R. B. station (foot of 
Pine St. ; 1 M. from the Phila. & Erie R. R. station). Willianisport was 
founded about 1795, and now has 16,030 inhabitants, 24 churches, 3 daily 
and 2 weekly (German) papers, and 4 banks. It is the terminus of the 
Catawissa R. R. (199 M. from Phila.), and is 78 M. from Elmira, by the 
N. Central R. R. The elegant Trinity Church was finished in 1876. 

Tlie Erie train now runs S. W., crossing the Lycoming Creek, and then 
tlie W. Branch. Near the entrance to the Nippenose Valley is the station 
for Jersey Shore (Jersey Shore Hotel), a thriving borough 1| M. N. W. 
on the 1. bank of the river. 13 M. beyond, the train reaches Lock Haven 
{''^ Fallon House ; Montour ; Irvine), o. city of over 7,000 inhabitants, 
cliiefly engaged in the lumber trade. Immense numbers of pine logs are 
received at the Lock Haven boom every year, and are used in the saw- 
mills of the city. The Bald Eagle Valley Division of the Penn. R. R. 
runs 55 M. S. W. to Tyrone (see page 348). The scenery of the Alle- 
ghenies and of the Bald Eagle Valley attracts summer visitors to Lock 
Haven; and there are many pleasant drives in the vicinity. 

5 M. above Lock Haven the Erie train crosses the W. Branch, and runs 
N. W. on its 1. bank, through a rugged and uninhabited region, where 
lofty ridges close in on the river on each side. Benovo (* Renovo Hotel) 
is a borough of over 2,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of the railroad shops 
and foundries. There are large deposits of bituminous coal in the vi- 
cinity, and the mountain- scenery is picturesque. The pleasant aspect of 
the valley and the fine trouting in the adjacent streams have made Renovo 
a favorite point for summer visitors. 

The line now runs S. W., and near Keating leaves the W. Branch, and 
runs N. W. alonjf the broad Sinneraahoning Creek. The country which 



WARREN. Route 55. 369 

is now traversed for many leagues was a silent wilderness 40 years ago, 
and still remains so, except for the feeble settlements near the railroad. 
Beyond the hamlet of Siunemahoning the train reaches Driftwood, a 
small place situated amid picturesque scenery. The completed portion 
of the Eastern Extension of the Allegheny Valley R. R. (see page 358) 
runs from Driftwood 20 M. S. W. to Barr's, traversing a rugged solitude. 
The Erie train now turns to the N. and reaches Ennjorium {Biddle House), 
the capital of Cameron County, au important lumbering town in the 
heart of the mountain-environed wilderness which was formerly called tlie 
Great Horse-Shoe of the Alleghenies. Valuable salt-springs have been 
found in this vicinity. The Buffalo, N. Y. & Phila R. R. runs N. from 
Emporium (see Route 56). 

Station, St. Mary's {Alpi-ne House; St. 3fary's Hotel), a village of 
over 1,000 inhabitants, situated amid broad timber lands and near prolific 
mines of bituminous coal. Considerable iron-ore has also been found in 
the vicinity. This village is the seat of St. Mary's Priory (a monastery 
of the Benedictines), and of St. Mary's Convent, the Mother-House of 
the Benedictine nuns in tlie United States. Station, Rid<jway (Hyde 
House), a borough of 800 inhabitants, and the capital of Elk County, sur- 
rounded by fine timber and by coal-mines. From Dagxiscahonda a branch 
railroad runs 5 M. S. to the hamlet of Earley. The Erie train runs N. 
along the Clarion River to Wilcox (Wilcox House), where is an immense 
tannery which is claimed to be the largest in the world. Kane (railroad 
hotel ) is situated on the Big Level, a long and narrow plateau which runs 
thence to the S. Large railroad repair-shops are located here. The train 
now leaves the Wild-Cat Country and descends on long and even grades. 
3 M. beyond Stoneham the Allegheny River is reached, and the train 
stops at Warren, the capital of Warren County, pleasantly situated at 
the head of steamboat navigation on the river, and at its confluence with 
the Conewango River. It was settled under the auspices of the Holland 
Land Co. in 1792; and now has over 2,000 inhabitants, with 7 churches 
and 2 weekly papers. The Allegheny Iron-Works and other manufac- 
tories are located here ; and the Dunkirk, Warren & Pittsburgh R. R. 
runs thence to the N. Freight-boats can ascend the Allegheny River to 
Olean Point, N. Y. The tanneries here are very extensive, and employ 
many men. The borough still preserves the wide rectangular streets 
with whicli it was originally laid out, and is attractive m its appearance. 

At Irmneion the Oil Creek & Allegheny River R. R. (see page 259) 
diverges to the S. W. Thence the line runs across Broken Straw and 
Pittsfield, and reaches Corry (see page 360). Union City is at the inter- 
section of the Phila. & Erie, the Atlantic & Great Western, and the Titus- 
ville R. Rs. , and is a growing factory town. Waterford is a prosperous 
village situated on Lake Leboeuf, in the midst of a coimtry abounding iu 
16* X 



370 Route 55. ERIE. 

dairy and cattle farms. The French built Fort Leboeuf on this site in 
1753, and Washington spent a week here in the same year, during which 
he reviewed the garrison. In 1763 the English garrison was attacked by 
the Indians of Pontiac's confederacy, and the troops escaped by an under- 
grormd passage while the fort was burning. A large metallic plate was 
found here recently, with the inscription : — 

" In the year 1749, in the reign of Louis XV., King of France, we, Celeron, com- 
mandant of a detachment by Monsieur the Marquis of Gallisoniere, Commander- 
in-chief of New France, to establish tranquillity in certain villages of these can- 
tons, have buried this x>late at the confluence of Toradekoin, this 29th of Julj^ 
near the river Ohio, otherwise the Beautiful River, as a monument of renewal of 
possession which we have taken of the said river, inasmuch as the preceding 
Kings of France have enjoyed this possession, and maintained it by their arms 
and by treaties, especially by those of Ryswick, Utrecht, and Aix La Chapelle." 

8-10 M. S. W. of Waterford is Edinboro\ prettily situated near Con- 

neautee Lake, and the seat of the N. W. State Normal School (250-300 

students). It has 800 inhabitants and 4 churches. The train runs N. W. 

from Waterford over a thinly settled country to 

Erie. 

Hotels. — *Reid House, new and elegant ; * Ellsworth House, $3 a day; — 
both fronting on the City Park. Morton House, and other small hotels. Amuse- 
ments at the new Opera-House. Reading-Room and library, corner of State and 
8th Sts. Horse-Cars on Peach, State, and Sixth Sts., from the union depot to the 
Park and the harbor. 

Railroads. — The Lake Shore & M. S. R. R., to Chicago in 451 M., to Buf- 
falo, 88 ; the Erie & Pittsburgh (Route 52), to Pittsburgh in 148 M. ; the Phila. 
& Erie, to Phila. in 451 M. 

Erie is a flourishing lake-city of over 20,000 inhabitants, with 1 daily 
and 5 weekly papers, 28 churches, 7 banks, 4 boat-clubs, and 6 Masonic 
societies. It has a large German population, with 5 Harugari lodges and 
10 breweries, and is the capital of a Roman (Catholic diocese. The city 
extends for 3 M. along the shore, and is mostly built on a low bluff over- 
looking the bay. The chief industries are the sliipment of coal and the 
manipulation of Lake Superior iron. The railroads have large docks 
here, and the Erie & Pittsburgh line has 2 docks 1,500 ft. long, — one 
for shipping coal, and the other (furnished with 12 derricks) for unloading 
iron ore. There are 25 iron-works and rolling-mills here, besides brass- 
works, 6 oil-refineries, and 10 planing-mills. Erie is also a port of entry 
and a station of the naval revenue service ; owning vessels of 24,716 ag-' 
gi*egate tonnage ; and in 1872, 2,392 vessels cleared from the port. The 
Erie Extension Canal, passing S. to the Ohio River, has been discon- 
tinued; but the Penn. Petroleum R. R. is to be built to the Oil Regions. 
Erie is the head-quarters of the Anchor Line of steamers (14 propellers), 
and has elevators with a capacity of 350,000 bushels. Its imports in 
1871 - 72 were, — of iron-ore, 406,000 tons; timber, 1,600,000 ft. ; lum- 
ber, 45,000,000 ft.; flour, 408,000 barrels; wheat, 1,708,000 bushels; oats, 



ERIE. Route 56. 371 

1,469,000 bushels; com, 1,176,000 bushels; and barley, 147,000 bushels. 
Presque Isle Bay lies before the city, and is the best on Lake Erie, being 
5 M. long by 1 - 3 M. wide, and 14 - 27 ft. deep. It is the only lake-port 
which belongs to Penn., and is sheltered by Presque Isle, a narrow penin- 
sula 7 M. long, pertainijig to the State and the Republic. The Isle fronts 
the lake with a wall of sand, and is an uninhabited wilderness, where 
ducks and fish are sought in the ponds and bayous. Fine black bass are 
caught in the bay ; and Massasaugie Point is a favorite resort for pic- 
nics. Several of Perry's frigates sank in Misery Bay, and the hull of the 
St. Lawrence is still seen in calm weather. The distances from Erie by 
water are, —to Buffalo, 79 M. ; to Toronto, 126; to Cleveland, 100; to 
Detroit, 188; to Chicago, 827; to Duluth, 933. 

The Park is about | M. from the bay, and is divided by State St. It 
is the central point of the city, and is surrounded by fine buildings, chief 
among which are the great hotels. On the well-kept lawns are lines of 
umbrageous trees, and the Park is further adorned by a * Soldiers* Monu- 
ment, consisting of bronze statues of heroic size, representing a soldier 
and a sailor upholding the flag. This memorial was dedicated late in 
1373, and cost $ 10,000. The Court House is near the Park, and is a 
handsome building in classic architecture. Toward the bay is the mas- 
sive little Custom House, and at the corner of Ash and Second Sts. are 
the spacious buildings of the U. S. Marine Hospital. 

In 1749 JeanCoeur built at Presque Isle (now Erie) an important fort, the most 
northerly of the chain of posts established by the French in the W. The place was 
deserted after the Conquest of Canada, until Gen. Wayne built a block-house 
here in 1794. On his return from the Maiunee campaign the brave old soldier 
died here (of the gout). In 1813 the U. S. built two strong block-houses near the 
entrance of the port. The town was laid out in 1795, and was a pretty village in 
1812, when Com. Perry began here the construction of the Lake Erie fleet. To 
this point he brought vessels and naval supplies from the Niagara River, and here 
he was long blockaded by Barclay's British squadron. There were 1,.500 Penn. 
militia in garrison, but Perry had no sailors (save 150 Rhode-Islanders) to man 
his fleet, until Aug., 1813, when he sailed boldly from the harbor, and within 5 
weeks met and captured the hostile fleet in the renowned Battle of Lake Erie. 

56. Philadelphia to Buffalo. 

By the Penn. R. R., N. Central, and Philji. & Erie lines to Emporium, where a 
connection is made with the Buttalo, New York, & Phila. R. R. Pullman palace- 
cars run through to Buffalo without cliauge. This route (or rather, that portion 
between Emporium and Buffalo) has been recently completed ; and it is claimed 
that it affords a great saving of time tn travellers bound from Phila. or Baltimore 
to Western N. Y. The line traverses (for the most part) a region devoid of cities 
and of history ; but the rugged scenery of the Alleghenies and the Susquehanna 
Valley will attract the attention of the tourist. 

Stations. — Philadelphia ; Downington, 33 M.; Lancaster, 69; Harrisburg, 
109 ; Sunbury, 163 ; William sport, 203 ; Lock Haven, 228 ; Renovo, 255 ; Drift- 
wood, 283; Emporium, 302. Bnfalo, N. Y. & Phila. B. iJ. — Ship])en, 309; 
Keating Summit, 316 ; Libertv, 319 ; Port Allegheny, 327 ; Turtle Point, 332 ; 
Snrtwell. 334 ; Larabee's, 336 ; Eldred, 339 ; State Line, 344 ; Portville, 347 ; 
Weston's, 350 ; Olean, 353 ; Hinsdale, 360 ; Ischua, 366 ; Franklinville, 374 ; 



372 Route 57. NORTHUMBERLAND. 

Machias, 381 ; Yorkshire Centre. 385 ; Arcade, 388 ; Protection, 394 ; IloUand, 
397 ; S. Wales, 402 ; E. Aurora, 406 ; Jamison Road, 409 ; Elma, 411 ; Spring 
Brook, 413 ; Ebenezer, 417 ; Junction, 422 ; Buffalo, 423. 

Phila. to Harrisburg, see pages 338 - 342 ; Harrisburg to Emporium, 
see pages 366 - 369. At Emporium the Buffalo, N. Y. & Pliila. R. R. 
diverges to the N., and crosses the forest-county of McKean, which has 
but 8,825 inhabitants on 1,120 square M. of area. At Port Allegheny 
the train reaches the Allegheny River, whose r. bank is followed for 27 
M. to Olean (see page 231), where the Erie Railway is intersected. Run- 
ning N. through tlie hilly N. Y. county of Cattaraugus, the line ascend* 
the Oil Creek and Ischua Valleys, E. of Ischua station is the Oil Creek 
Reservation of the Seneca Indians. The rural hamlets which are next 
traversed throughout many miles of the hill-country were settled early in 
the present century by men of New England. Beyond the small villages 
of Cadiz and Franklinville, the train passes along the E. shore of Liim 
Lake and enters Yorkshire, after which Sardinia, Holland, and Wales are 
traversed in succession. From Holland stages run S. W. to Springville, 
a large village near Cattaraugus Creek, with 5 churches and a newspaper. 
From E. Aiirora stages run S. E. to Wales and Java. The fertile valley 
of the Cazenove Creek is followed from Protection to Buffalo, except in 
Elma, where the line makes a detour to the N. Beyond the settlement 
of W. Seneca the train crosses the Buffalo Creek, and soon enters the 
city of Buffalo (see page 233). 

57. Harrisburg^ to the Valley of Wyoming. 

By the N. Central and the Lackawanna & Bloomsburg R. Rs., following up the 
Suscjuehanna Vallev for 127 M. 

Stations.— HaVrisburg; Millersburg, 27 M.; Northumberland, 56 ; Danville, 
68 ; Catav. issa Bridge, 76 ; Rupert, 78 ; Bloomsburg, 80 ; Espy, 82 : Briar Creek, 
89 ; Berwick, 93 ; Beach Haven, 95 ; Shickshinny, 104 ; Hunlaek's Creek, 109 ; 
Nanticoke, 112; Plymouth, 116; Plymouth Junction, 117; Kingston, 119; Wy- 
oming, 124 ; W. Pittston, 126 ; Pittston, 127 ; Lackawanna, 130 ; Scrauton, 136. 

Harrisburg to Northumberland, see pages 366, 367. 

At Northumberland the Lackawanna k Bloomsburg R. R. diverges to 
the N. E., reaching Scranton in 80 M., aftgr traversing tlie whole length 
of the Valley of Wyommg. The line ascends the N. bank of the N. 
Branch of the Susquehanna River, and, beyond the petty hamlets of 
Cameron and Chulasky, approaches Montour's Ridge (on the 1.), and 
reaches the large iron-manufacturing borough of Danville (see page 336). 
Following now the broad curve of the river to the S., Catawissa Bridge 
is soon reached, beyond which is seen the pretty village of Cataioissa (see 
page 336). Intersecting the Catawissa R. R. near Rupert, the present 
route continues on to Bloomsburg (Brow)i's Hotel), an old borough of 
3,341 hdmbitants, which has been the capital of Columbia County for 72 
years. As the train passes up by Espy, the Catawissa Mts. are seen on 



VALLEY OF WYOMING. Route 58. 373 

the r., with glimpses of the Mainville Water-Gap. Farther to the E., the 
traveller has occasional views of the Himtington Mt. on the 1., and the 
dark Nescopec Mt. on the r. Beyond Berwick the line enters the coal- 
abounding Luzerne County, and at Belle Bend turns N. with the river, 
traverses the water-gap at Lees Mt., and reaches Shickshinny (Yaple's 
Hotel), a borough of 1,045 inhabitants, near the Wapwallopen Mt., and 
in a district which is frequented by trout-fishers. Ascending for 6-8 M. 
the narrow pass between the Shickshinny Mt. (1.) and the Nanticoke Mt. 
(r.), the train enters the Valley of Wyoming beyond W. Nanticoke, and 
soon reaches Grand Tunnel and the mines and breakers of the Susque- 
hanna Coal Co. The river is followed over the rich alluvial plains called 
the Shawnee Flats; and on the r., beyond the island-gemmed river, is the 
tall peak called Penobscot Knob. Avondale is near the great colliery 
where (a few years since) 102 miners were burnt or suffocated in the 
depths below by the conflagration of the breaker over the mouth of the 
shaft. For several miles the line passes a succession of coal-pits and 
slopes, and the great wooden buildmgs of the breakers. Plymouth is a 
borough of nearly 3,000 inhabitants, and is near the Delawai-e & Hudson, 
Wilkes-Barre, and Nottingham Collieries. Station, Kingston (Kingston 
Hotel), a prosperous village near large collieries, and the seat of the 
Wyoming Seminary. Horse-cars run thence across the river to Wilkes- 
Sarre, the metropolis of the Valley (see page 312). Traversing now the 
verdant intervales, the train passes near the Maltby Colliery, Forty Fort, 
and the tall obelisk of the Wyoming Monument (see page 314), and, be- 
yond the pretty village of W. Pittston, crosses the Susquehanna in full 
view of Campbell's Ledge. Passing through Pittston, the line leaves the 
Valley of Wyoming, and ascends the narrow and mt. -walled valley of the 
Lackawanna River. Approaching the coal-planes and breakers which 
surround Scranton, the train traverses the suburb of Hyde Park, crosses 
the Lackawanna, and enters the city. 
Scranton, see page 246. 

58. Harrisburg to Carlisle and Martinsburg. The Cum- 
berland Valley. 

By the Cumberland Valley R. R., tras'ersing a fruitful and picturesque region 
wliioh lias gaiued a uew interest from its history during tlie last decade. Trains 
from Harrisburg to Carlisle in 1 lir. ; to Chanibersburg in 2^ hrs. ; to Martins- 
burg in 4^ hrs. 

Stations. — Harrisburg ; Bridgeport, 1 M.; Shiremanstown, 5 ; Mechanics- 
burg, 8; Dillsburg Junction, 9 (Dillsburg, 17); Kingston, 12; Middlesex, 14; 
South Mt. Junction, IS (Pine Grove, .3oi) ; Carlisle, 19 ; Gt)od Hope, 23; Alterton, 
26 ; Newville, 30 ; Oakville, 34 ; Shippensburg, 41 ; Scotland, 47 ; Mount Alto 
Junction, 48 (Mount Alto) ; Chanibersburg, 52 ; Marion, 58 ; S. Penn. Junction, 
69 (Mercersburg, 73; Richmond, 78); Greencastle, 63 ; State Line, 68; Morgan- 
town, 70; Hagerstown, 74; Washington, 77; Williamsport, 81 ; Falling Waters, 
85 ; Biddington, 88 ; Berkeley, 89 ; Martiusburg, 94. 



374 Route 58. CARLISLE. 

The train leaves the great station of the Penn. R. R. at Harrisburg, 
and crosses the Susquehanna on a bridge from which are gained pleasant 
views of the city, the island-strewn river, and the picturesque water-gap 
to the N. At Bridgeport the N. Central R. R. is crossed, and on the 
adjacent heights are seen remains of the fortifications which were erected 
in 1863 to defend Harrisburg against the Rebel invasion. The train 
soon reaches Mecliauicsburg {^American Hotel; National), a handsome 
borough of 2,500 inhabitants, with 7 churches, a neat town hall, and busy 
car-works and paper-mills. It has a large trade with the densely popu- 
lated farmiug-coxmtry in the vicinity, and a branch railroad runs S. 16 M. 
to the village of Dillsburg. E. of the borough is the spacious brick 
building of the Irving Female College, a Methodist institution of con- 
siderable local fame, and to the W. is the Cumberland Valley Institute, 
with 75 students. Both these buildings are seen on the 1. as the train 
passes the compact little borough with its cluster of church -spires. 

The train now ascends the valley, with the South Mt. on the 1., and the 
imposing range of the Blue Mt. on the r. Carlisle {Bentz House ; Man- 
sion House), the capital of Cumberland County, is a pleasant borough of 
6,650 inhabitants, and is situated nearly in the centre of the valley. It 
is compactly and substantially built on wide straight macadamized streets 
which abound in shade trees; and the Court House fronts on the public 
square opposite an ancient church. On this square is a neat monument 
which was erected *'In honor of the soldiers of Cumberland County who 
fell in defence of the Union, during the great rebellion." The county 
prison is a neat building of brown-stone, formed by 3 towers connected 
by a curtain-wall, and in the W. ward is the county fair-groimd, with its 
floral hall and race-course. On Main St., W. of the public square, are the 
gi'ounds which surround the plain old buildings of Dickinson College, a 
venerable institution of the Methodist Episcopal Church, which was 
founded in 1783, and has nearly 1,200 alumni. It now has 8 instructors 
and about 100 students, and the largest college library in the State 
(numbering 26,000 volumes). The name was given in honor of Hon. 
John Dickinson (the Delaware statesman of the Revolutionary era), who 
endowed and aided in founding the college. The scientific department, 
library, and museum are on the opposite side of Main St. The Carlisle 
Barracks of the U. S. Army formerly consisted of 25 buildings, situated 
^ M. from the public square. They Avere built in 1777 by the Hessian 
prisoners from Trenton, and were the head-quarters of the U. S. army 
during the Whiskey Rebellion (when Washington's quarters were on Han- 
over St., near the square). At a later day this post was commanded by 
Capt. Robert E. Lee, of the U. S. A., who afterwards became com- 
mander-in-chief of the immense armies of the insurgent Southern States, 
and conquered the Cumberland Valley. 



CARLISLE. Route 58. 375 

Til is district was settled in 1730 by the Scotch-Irish, on the lands of the 
Aquanaschioiii Indians. In 1751 Carlisle was founded by the proprietaries, and 
soon became an imjiortant military post of the W. frontier. For many years it 
was one of the proude.st and most aristocratic places in the State, and it still re- 

j tains much of the ancient dignity. July 1, 1863, it was heavily bombarded by 
rebel artillery and suffered much damage. It was taken by the Southern troops, 
who then occupied Mechanicsburg and advanced to within 4 M. of Harrisburg, 
whence they drove in the National outposts to the alarmed capital, and caused 

1 the costly bridges over the Susquehanna to be prepared or burning. 

1^ M. N. of Carlisle, on the Conedoguinet Creek, is a remarkahle cav- 
ern which is entered by a symmetrical arch 8 ft. high. A straight pas- 
sage through the limestone ledges leads tlience (in 270 ft.) to the diver- 
gence of 3 avenues, of which that to the r. leads to the obscure hall called 
the Devil's Dining-Room. The Happy Retreat, the Carlisle Springs, Mt. 
Holly Spring, and other points about the borough are often visited. 

The South Mt. R. R. runs S. W. from Carlisle (Junction station) to the extensive 
iron-works at Laurel Forge and Pine Grove, amid the defiles of the South Mt., 
17J M. distant (1 train daily, in 2^ hrs.). Mt. Holly Springs (U. S. Hotel) is pleas- 
antly situated at the base of the mts., and has a newspaper called The Mountain 
Echo. The new Miramar R. R. will pass this point. 

The Boiling Spring is 5 M. S. E. of Carlisle, and is the seat of the Carlisle Iron 
Co., which owns 10,000 acres of mineral land about Mt. Victory. 

The Carlisle Springs {Springs Hotel, J$2.50 a day) are situated in a 
pleasant valley at the foot of the Blue Mt., 4 M. N. of the borough (daily 
stages). The waters are sulphurous, and are beneficial in cases of general 
debility and weakness. The accommodations are good, and the roads in 
the vicinity lead through pleasant scenery, while the fishing in the Cone- 
doguinet and its tributaries affords fair sport. This is a favorite resort 
for families from Phila., Harrisburg, and Baltimore. 

The Perry Warm Springs are 14 M. N. of Carlisle, by a road which 
crosses the Blue Mt. at Sterrett's Gap, affording pleasant views of the 
Cumberland Valley (stages every afternoon). The waters issue from the 
base of Quaker Hill, in the deep glen under Mt. Pisgah, and are chalybeate 
in their properties, containing carbonate of iron and an excess of carbonic- 
acid gas. The thermal waters maintain a temperature of 70", and are 
much used for bathing, as thus applied being beneficial in cases of cu- 
taneous diseases (taken internally they are aperient and diuretic). The 
hotel is very low in its prices, and is situated amid pleasant hill-scenery 
near Sherman's Creek. 

The Martinsburg train passes S. W. from Carlisle, with fine mt. views 
on either hand, beyond the rich and arable valley. On the r. front is the 
bold peak of the Blue Mt. , which bounds Doubling Gap on the S. Neio- 
ville (Big Spring Hotel; Logan House) has nearly 2,000 inhabitants and 
6 churches, and is the shipping-point for a wide farming district. Stages 
run thence to the Doubling Gap Springs (sulphur- water), near the noble 
scenery of the Doubling Gap, a great cul-de-sac which is formed by a loop 
in the Blue Mt. 6 M. long. The train now runs S. W. to Shippensburg 



376 Route 58. CHAMBERSBURG. 

{Sherman House), an ancient borough of nearly 3,000 inhabitants, with 7 
churches. It is a grain market and shipping-point for the populous rural 
districts in the vicinity, and has a large water-power on the Middle Spring. 
The Cumberland Valley Normal School is ^ M. N., on a commanding hill 
(seen from the railroad, on the r. hand); and at Middle Spring are pro- 
ductive papyrus-mills. Roads run thence 12 - 15 M. N. W. to the Am- 
berson and Path Valleys, between the Kittatinny and Tuscarora Mts. 

At Scotland the train crosses the Conococheagne Creek, which is fol- 
lowed to Chambersburg {Mansion House ; Montgomery ; Washington), 
the capital of Franklin County. It is a borough of 7,000 inhabitants, 
with 8 churches and manufactories of cotton and Avoolleu goods, paper, 
and iron. It is favorably situated at the confluence of the Falling Spring 
and the Conecocheague Creek, in one of tlie richest districts of the Cum- 
berland Valley, and is surrounded by a populous farming-country. Mt. 
Parnell lies to the W., and commands a beautiful valley view. 

Stages run daily to Gettysburg, ascending the defiles between Mt. Alto, Rooky 
Mt., and Chestnut Ridge, and crossing the cold highlands of Green Ridge. Tliey 
depart early in the morning, and reach Gettysburg in 5 hrs. (fare, $ 2). Stages 
run every afternoon 22 M. W. across the Cove Mt. to McConnelslmrg, the capital 
of the mountain county of Fulton. There are tri-weekly stages to Waynesboro' 
(Waynesboro' Hotel ; Washington), 15 M. S. E., situated on South Mt., over the 
Antietam Creek. 

The Mount Alto Branch trains leave Chanibersburg twice daily, and run in 1 lir. 
S. E. to the Mount Alto Iron-Works (Slianks' Hotel), situated in the Valley of a 
Thousand Springs, under the dark ridges of Mount Alto. 

The Southern Penn. Branch trains leave Chambersburg twice daily, 
diverging from the C. V. R. R. below Marion. Stations. — Chambers- 
burg; Marion, 6 M. ; Mercersburg, 21; Loudon, 23; Richmond, 26. 
Mercersburg ( Old Mansion House) is a small village Avhich is reached by 
a secondary branch railroad, and is 2 - 3 M. from the base of the North 
Mt. of the Tuscarora range. It is famous as the place whence emanated 
the " Mercersburg System of Theology," which was originated and de- 
fended by Dr. Nevin (President of Marshall College), in the Mercersburg 
Reviein. Marshall College was removed to Lancaster in 1853; and in 
1865 the German Reformed Church founded the Mercersburg College, 
whose halls are S. of the village, near St. John's Lutheran Church (6 pro- 
fessors and 112 students). To the E. are the buildings of the Theological 
Seminary of the German Reformed Church. The S. Penn. R. R. runs N. 
through Cove Gap into the long town of Metal, wliich lies in the Path 
Valley, between the Kittatinny and Tuscarora Mts. In a desolate valley 
of Cove Gap was born James Buchanan, 15th President of tlie U. S. The 
stages to McConnelsburg leave the station of Loudon, crossing the Cove 
Mt. in 5 - 7 M. 

Chambersburg was founded by Col. Ben. Chambers in 1730, and was laid out 
as a town in 1760. It was much annoyed by hostile Indians in 1755-56, but was 
held fearlessly by the Scotch-Irish settlers of the valley. This brave and patriotic 



HAGERSTOWN. Route 59. 377 

race has long since been crowded out of the region by the Pennsylvania Dutch, a 
people to whom wealth and comfort are the paramount objects of attraction and 
desire. In 1863 Ohauibersburg was captured by Soutliern caA'alry, and was 
doomed to the torch. Fires were set in various parts of the borough, and proj)- 
erty to the vahie of $2,000,000 was destroyed. This severe measure was in retali- 
ation for the (alleged) similar acts of the national armies in the insurgent States. 
The borough was speedily rebuilt in a more compact and city-like form than it 
liore before the conflagration. 

The Martinsburg train runs S. W. from Chambersburg by the Moravian 
hamlet of Marion (Union Hotel) and the Dunkard village near Kauf- 
niann's station, and reaches Greencastle {Hays' House ; Adams), whence 
daily stages run 9 M. S. E. to Waynesboro' and 11 M. N. W. to Mercers])urg. 
Greencastle has 1,650 inhabitants, and is built around a public square at 
the intersection of Carlisle and Baltimore Sts. It is the centre of a rich 
and productive farming country. 5 M. S. the train passes Mason & Dixon, 
and enters the State of Maryland. 

6 M. beyond the State line the train reaches Hagerstown ( Washington 
House), the capital of Washington County, a town of 5,779 inhabitants, 
where the present route is intersected by the Western Md. R. R. During 
the Secession War several well-fought actions occurred about this town. 
In July, 1863, 6 regiments of U. S. cavalry attacked the rebel garrison 
here, but were repulsed with severe loss, after a combat in the streets. 5 
days later the town was carried by an attack of national infantry. 

The train now runs 3- W. to Williamsport, where the Southern army, 
retreating after its defeat at Gettysburg (see page 380), turned at bay and 
checked the pursuit of the victors. At Falling Waters (near this point) 
the 5th Michigan Cavalry charged over a line of works and captured 1,200 
men, 3 battle-flags, and 2 cannon. The train crosses the Potomac on a 
long bridge, and runs down through Berkeley County (W. Va. ), to its junc- 
tion with the Bait. & Ohio R. R. at Martinsburg (see Route 65). 

59. Philadelphia to Gettysburg. 

By the Penn. R. R. to Lancaster, and thence by a brancli line to York. The 
Northern Central R. R. is followed to Hanover Junction, whence short local rail- 
roads lead W. to Gettysburg. A new route is now open from York. 

N. Y. to Harrisburg by Route 36, and thence to Gettysburg by the N. Central 
R. R., etc. Washington to Gettysburg by the Bait. & Potomac and N. Central 
R. Rs., etc. i^ares. — Phila. to Gettysburg, §4.52; Washington to Gettysburg, 
$4 : New York to Gettysburg, $7.51 ; Pittsburgh to Gettysburg, $10.15. 

Stations. — Philadelphia ; Coatesville, 39 M. ; Lancaster, 69 ; Rohrerstown, 72 ; 
Mountville, 76; Columbia, 81 ; Wriglitsville, 82 ; Ewing, 84; Carver's Lane, 86; 
Hershey's, 88; Campbell's, 90; Turnpilce, 92; York, 95; Glatfelter's, 103 ; Han- 
over Junction, 106 ; Strickhauser's, 108 ; Cold Spring, 109 ; Jefferson, 110 ; Porter's, 
114 ; Smith's, 116 ; Hanover, 119; Valley, 123 ; Oxford, 125 ; Gulden's, 131 ; Granite, 
132 ; Gettysburg, 136. 

Philadelphia to Lancaster, see Route 50. 

From Lancaster the train runs W. across the fertile and densely pop- 
ulated plains of Hempfield, and in 35 min. reaches Columbia {Con- 
tinental Hotel), a wealthy borough of 6,461 inhabitants, with 12 churches 



378 Roide 59. YORK. 

and large iron-works. It is the chief depot for the lumber of the Susque-i 
hanna region, and is built on the high, sloping bank of the river, which! 
is over 1 M. wide, and is studded with small islands. Beautiful viewa 
are enjoyed from the hills in the vicinity, including the rich limestone 
plains of Lancaster County and the picturesque river. Crossing the bridge 
(1;^ M. long), the train reaches Wrifjhtsville, which was one of the chief 
points urged for the location of the national capital when the Republic 
was founded. To this point advanced the splendid infantry of Early's 
rebel division, in June, 1863. A strong force of Penn. militia wer 
garrisoned at the fortifications about the bridge-head, but the hostile 
artillery drove them from the works ; and in the retreat they burnt the 
bridge, thus preventing the farther advance of the invaders. 11 M. be- 
yond Wrights ville tlie train reaches York {Natianal Hotel; York House), 
a borough of over 11,000 inhabitants, with 18 cliurches and 3 banks. It 
is well and compactly built, and has many church-spires; while the Court 
House is a fine granite building in classic architecture. There are several 
large manufactories, but the borough is chiefly noted as the market-town 
for a wide extent of populous German farm-hamlets. It is situated on 
Codorus Creek, and the chief streets (Main and George) intersect each 
other at the Central Square. The Codorus Valley was settled in 1733 by 
Lutherans from Wurtemberg, and York was founded in 1740; after which 
(in 1777-78) the Continental Congress lield its sesaons here for 9 months. 
During the rebel invasion of Penn. (May, 1863), this borough was dis- 
honored by the oflBcious timidity of its magistrates, who rode over 7 M. 
to the camp of the Confederates, to whom they surrendered the place 
without summons. Early soon occupied York (the largest Northern town 
ever taken by the insurgents) with 10,000 men, and levied a contribu- 
tion of $ 100,000 on the citizens. Tlie railroad works and bridges in the 
vicinity were destroyed ; but private property was carefully guarded, and 
remained intact. 

The traveller passes S. W. from York up the Codorus Valley on the N. 
Central R. R., and at Hanover Junction takes the Hanover Branch R. R. 
Hanover is a borough of nearly 2,000 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 3 
papers, and 2 banks. While marching through this place, on June 28, 
1863, Kilpatrick's division of U. S. cavalry was suddenly and furiously 
attacked by a large force of Southern horsemen, vmder Gen. Stuart. A 
battle of 4 hours' duration ensued, and was only terminated by the arrival 
of a fresh Federal brigade, under Gen. Custer. 

The York Sulphur Springs ( York Sprimjs Hotel) are reached by stage 
from Oxford station, beyond Hanover, in 9 M. (also by carriage from 
Gettysburg in 12-14 M.). They contain sulphates of lime and magnesia 
and muriate of soda, and there is a chalybeate spring in the vicinity. 
These Uiineral waters were discovered in 1790, and were lor many years 



GETTYSBURG. Route 59. 379 

a favorite resort for Baltimore families. They are now less visited than 
formerly. 

Gettysburg (Eagle Iloiel ; Keystone House) is the terminus of the 
railroad, and is a quiet borough of about 3,300 inhabitants, with 8 
churches, 2 banks, and 3 newspapers. It is situated on a fertile plain 
amid a populous farming country, and is surrounded by low ridges. Penn- 
sylvania College (founded in 1832) is located here, and has imposing build- 
ings in classic architecture. There are 8 pi'ofessors and 133 students, and 
the library contains 17,450 volumes. The Lutheran Theological Seminary 
has 3 professors and 43 students (400 alumni), with a library of 12,000 
volumes. The view from its cupola (courteously open to visitors) over- 
looks the borough and its vicinity for many leagues, with Bear Mt. in the 
N., and the bold and diversified Green Ridge in the W, 

The Katalysine Spring {* Springs Hotel; 250 guests; $3 a day; 
$15-20 a week) is reached by carriage in li M. from the borough. 
The watei's are cold, colorless, and tasteless, and are classed with those 
of Vichy and Pyrmont They are alkaline in character, each gallon con- 
taining 7 grains of sulphate of magnesia, 5 of carbonate of lime, 2^ of 
sulphate of soda, and 2 of silicic acid, and are said to be efficacious in 
cases of gout, rheumatism, dyspepsia, diabetes, and in dissolving calculi 
and chalkstone concretions. 

There are many pleasant drives in the vicinity of Gettysburg, amid 
picturesque rural scenery, and through scenes of the deepest historic 
interest. The Seminary Ridge is W. of the town; and the Chambers- 
burg road leads thence, by Lee's Head-quarters (back of the Seminary), 
to Herr's Tavern and the vicinity of the Katalysine Spring. The Millers- 
town road leads to Willoughby Run and Bream's Tavern. Round Top 
is reached by the Emmittsburg or Taneyto^vn road. Visitors who wish to 
make a close study of the battle-field should buy Batchelder's " Gettys- 
burg : What to see, and how to see it " (with large topographical map). 

The * Soldiers' National Cemetery is the most interesting point in 
this vicinity. Just after the battle an association was formed by the 
governors of the Northern States, under whose auspices the remains of 
the patriot dead were removed from the groves and heights, valleys and 
fields, where they had fallen, and were buried on the lofty ridge of Ceme- 
tery Hill. The Confederate dead mostly lie on the wide field, except 
such as have been removed to the Hollywood Cemetery, in Richmond. 
Nearly 3,600 National soldiers are buried here in semicircular lines whose 
centre is occupied by the monument. Tlie dead of each State are ranged 
in sections, separated by radiating pathways, and continuous lines of 
granite blocks are placed at the heads of the graves, and marked with the 
names and regiments of the fallen heroes. There are 18 States repre- 
sented, from Maine and Delaware to Minnesota; of which New York has 



380 Route 59. BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG. 

867, and Pennsylvania has 534. Near the entrance of the cemetery is a 
semi-colossal bronze *statne of Maj.-Gen. Reynolds, who was killed 
while leading the First Coi-ps in the tattle. It Avas designed by Ward, 
and cast from condemned cannon, and rests on a high pedestal of Quincy 
granite. The * National Monument is an imposing memorial which 
stands in the centre of the lines of the dead. It is of white Westerly 
(R. I.) granite, 60 ft. high, and is crowned by a colossal marble statue 
of Liberty, holding the laurel-wreath and the sword. There are 4 but- 
tresses about the base of the column, bearing colossal marble statues of 
War (an American soldier), History (recording the achievements of tl»e 
hero), Peace (a stalwart mechanic), and Plenty (a female figure, with 
grain and fruits). On the base of the monument are carved a few of the 
grand and solemn words of President Lincoln, delivered here in Novem- 
ber, 1863. 

*' It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaiiiint^ before us, 
— that from these honored dead we take iiu-reased devotion to the cause for which 
they gave the last full Jiiea:jure of devotion, — that we here highly resolve that 
these dead shall not have died in vain, — that this nation, luider God, shall have a 
new birth of freedom, — and that tlie government of the people, by the people, and 
for the people, shall not perish from the earth." 

The Battle of Gettysburg. 

Shortly after the sanguinary defeat of the National army at Chaneellorsville, 
Va. (May, 1 803), Gen. Lee advanced rapidly into Maryland and Penn. at the head 
of a powerful and eompact army of Southern veterans. The Cumberland Valley 
towns fell iu succession before the invading host, the Lower Susquehanna Valley 
was overrun, and consternation filled the adjacent States. It was even thought 
possible that the Confederate cavalry would water their horses in the Delaware 
and the Hudson, and lines of fortifications were thrown up before Pittsburgh, 
Harrisburg, and Philadelphia (whence nuich valuable property was sent to the 
more remote North). Where the blow would fall on one could tell, and the gather- 
ing militia of the adjacent States were scattered over such wide lines of defence 
as to be of but little avail. Meantime tlie Army of the Potomac, luicertain of the 
plans and whereabouts of the enemy, was endeavoring to cover the cities of Balti- 
more, Philadelphia, and Washington, and to impede the hostile advance. 

On the 1st of July, 1803, Hill's corps descended from their camps in the mts., 
and attacked the National cavalry beyond Herr's Tavern, driving them in towards 
Gettysburg. A part of the First Corps was soon brought up. and the famous 
" Iron Brigade " (•2d, 6th, and 7th Wis., 19th Ind., and 24th Mich.) swept into the 
forest E. of the i)resent Springs Hotel and routed Archer's brigade (1st, 7th, and 
14th Tenn., 5th and 13th Ala"^), after a terrific; struggle in which Gen. Reynolds 
was killed and Gen. Archer was made prisoner. The 2d Miss, was captured on 
the r., but the National lines were forced back slowly by overwhelming numbers. 
Powerful reinforcements now joined both combatants, and Southern batteries be- 
gan to enfilade the 11th Corps' from Oak Hill. A North Carolina brigade was cap- 
tured en masse and hurried to the rear, and the German troops of the 11th Corps 
held their positions well. But Early's diviscm now flanked the National line on 
the Harri.sburg road and the Georgia and Louisiana brigades made a resistless 
attack. Outflanked and overpowered, the Union army fell back without orders, 
and huddled into Gettysburg. Hoke's North Carolina brigade routed Coster's 
New-Yorkers and swept through the streets, capturing great numbers of prison- 
ers. Smith's brigade lay on Cemetery Hill as a reserve, and here the broken 
divisions were re-formed, while every part of the hill was garnished with cannon, 
which were ordered into position as fast as they came in from the rout. Troops 
were hurried ou to the field all night long, by both of the combatants. 



BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG. Route 59. 381 

At noon on the 2J of July, Sickles's 3d Corps advanced and formed on the low- 
ridge above tlie Enunittsburg road ; but the 1. flank was attacked at 4 p. m., and 
a desperate struggle occuired about the Devil's Den and the rugged peali of Little 
Round Top. The rebel troops engaged were mostly from Texas and the Gulf 
States, and fought with desperate fury, jiressing back the National lines and 
sweeping over the guns. Sickles's men fought well, but v.'ore flanked and forced 
back from tiieir positions, and retired sullenly, a.ter suffering terrible losses. 
Humphrey's division of New York and New England men checked the attack of 
the Alabama, Florida, and Mississippi brigades until new lines were formed on 
Cemetery Hill, and the i)Osition on Little Round Top was made secure. At late 
twilight the Louisiana and North Carolina brigades emerged from the streets of 
Gettysburg and made a gallant charge on East Cemetery Hill, the r. of the Na- 
tional line. By their imi)etuous ;ukI unexpected rush the infantry supports were 
.scattered and the batteries in position were captured. But the flanking artillery 
opened a hot tire at slu)rt range with double-shotted canister; the 33d Mass. 
pnured in withering volleys, and Carroll's men of Ohio, W. Va., and Penu. charged 
down upon the enemy and jiressed them from the hill. The National batteries at 
this point had received positive orders not to limber up and retire, but " to fight 
t - tlie last" ; and the hand-to-hand contest among the gnns was one of the most 
tcirible episodes of the battle. Later in the night Johnson's division of Southern 
liiinps attacked the extreme right, which was held by a New York brigade, and 
.succeeded in carrying the works. 

At 4 o'clock in the morning of July 3, a heavy fire was opened by the artilleiy 
of the 12th Cori)s on tlie position of Johnson's division (on the e.xtreme r.), and a 
siiarp infantry action followed, at whose close the Union lines were re-established 
in their advanced works. The fighting on the right Avas over at 11 o'clock, and 
then an ominous quiet settled over the field. Lee was massing his artillery 
on Seminary Ridge, opposite the National left centre ; and at 1 o'clock he opened 
a cannonade, which has been called by veteran artillerists the most tremendoTis 
exhibition in the history of war of the power of field-batteries. Cemetery Ridge 
was swept for 2 hours by a storm of shot and shell ; the slopes were ploughed up 
on every side by the plunging bolts ; and the roar of 145 rebel guns filled the air. 
The National infantry was saved from annihilation by lying down in the hollows 
of the ridge ; but the artillery sufi'ered fearfully, several caissons were blown up, 
and 2 batteries were totally demolished. 80 guns replied to the hostile cannonade, 
with instructions to slowly slacken their fire. Gen. Lee, believing that the Na- 
tional artillsry had been destroyed and the supports cut to pieces, ordered a grand 
charge by the elite of the army, and 3 colunnis, containing 15,000 men, advanced 
from Seminary Ridge into the valley. The centre was held by Pickett, with 10 
veteran regiments of Virginians ; the South Carolina and Georgia brigades were 
on the left, and the Florida and Alabama brigades were on the right. The firing 
ceased, and the attention of both armies was concentrated on the massive column 
of attack. The objective point was a clump of trees in the rear of the lines, boldly 
outlined against the clear sky ; and the Confederate divisions adv.anced thither- 
ward in perfect silence, and with the regularity of a dress-pafade. Meeting the 
skirmish lines of the U. S. sharpshootei^s near the Emmittsburg road, Pickett 
brushed them away like a swarm of flies, and his men started up the heights at 
the step of the charge. Then the National batteries opened, sweeping the valley 
with a scathing shower of grape and canister; tlie thousands of rifles of Hancock's 
corps commenced a sharp fusilade ; and section after section of artillery from the 
I'ight and left wheeled into new positions and converged their fire on the advan- 
cing host. But nothing short of utter annihilation could stay Pickett's heroic 
Virginians ; thousands fell, but other thousands pressed on, swept over the Na- 
tional fortifications, took the guns, and cut the army in two at the copse of trees 
"to which a few — it may be a score or two — of the boldest and bravest that led 
the van of Pickett's charging column on the 3d of July attained. Thus far the 
swelling surge of invasion threw its spray, dashing itself to pieces on the rocky 
bulwark of Northern valor. Let us call this the high-water mark of the Rebel- 
lion." It was but for a moment ; Hall's Mass. and N. Y. troops reinforced Webb's 
retreating Pennsylvanians and retook the artillery ; Hays's division opened a close 
enfilading fire with musketry ; and Stannard's Vermont brigade rose from their 
sheltered position far in front of the Union line, and destroyed a supporting 
column by a close and unexpected flank fire. Howard's artillery, massed on Ceme- 
tery Hill, shattered the South-Carolinians ; the right wing of the assault was 



382 Route 60. BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG. 

liroken ; and the survivors of the Virginia division, withering under the close 
convergent tire, threw down their arms and surrendered. 

Tlie broken remains of that superb Soutlierii infantry drifted back to Seminary 
Kidge ; and the Pennsylvania Reserves began a successful advance on the left 
wing wliich was only terminated by nightfall. During the night tlie Confederate 
army retreated through tlie passes of the Soutli Mt. , and soon reached Virginia, 
though much harassed l)y tlie National ouvahy. 

The number of men engaged in tliis grand battle is variously estimated, but 
the best accounts give 80,000 Nationals and 70,000 Confederates (others claim that 
there were 100,000 Nationals and 91,000 Confederates). The National loss in the 
a days' battle was 2,834 killed, 13,7:53 wounded, and 6,643 missing. The Confed 
erate loss was about 18,000 killed and wounded, and 13,620 prisoners. 



M' 



60. Baltimore to Central New York. 

By the Northern Central R. R., whose N. terminus is at Canandaigua, on the 
N. Y. Central R. R. This is the favorite route for travellers fi'om tlie South on 
the way to Watkins Glen and Niagara Falls. The latter is reached either by pass- 
ing through to Canandaigua and taking the N. Y. Central ; by changing on to the 
Erie Railway at Elinira ; or by diverging from Williamsport to Emporium and 
Bulfalo. The line runs Pullman parlor and sleeping cars, and traverses the rich 
and thickly settled Susquehanna Valley, and the wild and uninhabited Allegheny 
Mountain region. Baltimore to Harrisburg, 3^- hrs. ; to Williamsport, 85 hrs. ; 
to Elmira, i2i hrs.; to Watkins Glen, 13^ hrs.; to Canandaigua, 16 hrs.; to 
Rochester, 18 hrs. ; to Niagara Falls, 22i:-24 hrs. 

Stations. — Baltimore ; B. & P. R. R. Juncti<m, 1 M. ; Mt. Vernon, 2 ; Relay, 
7 ;^Tinionium, 12 ; Cockeysville, 15; Sparks', 19| ; Monkton, 23; Parkton, 29; 
Freeland's, 34^; Glenrock, 42; Hanover Junction, 46J ; Glatfelter's, 49; York, 
57 1; Conewago, 67; Goldsboro', 72^; Red Bank, 78J-; 'Bridgeport, 83^ (Harris- 
burg, 84J) ; Fairview, 85 V; Marysville, 91 ; Dauphin, 92^; Clark's Ferry, 99; 
Halifax, 105i; Millersburg.'lll ; Liverpool, 114; Mahantango, 118; Georgetown, 
121 i; Trevorton Junction, 126^ ; Fisher's Ferry, 131 ; Selinsgrove, 133 ; Suubury, 
138; Northumberland, 140; Lewisburg Junction, 147; Catawissa Junction, 150 ; 
Milton, 151 ; Watsontown, 155 ; Dewart, 157 ; Montgomery, 162 ; Muncy, 166 ; 
Williamsport, 178; Cogan Valley, 187; Crescent, 188-1 ; Trout Run, 192; Bodine's, 
198 ; Ralston, 202 ; Roaring Branch, 206^ ; Carpenter's, 212 ; Canton^ 218 ; Min- 
nequa, 219^ ; Alba, 221^ ; W. Granville, 225 ; Troy, 231 ; Columbia Cross Roads, 
235^; Snediker's, 240^; Gillett's, 243i ; State Line, 247; Elmira, 256 ; Horse 
Heads, 262 ; Pine Valley, 266 ; Millport, 269 ; Croton, 271 ; Havana, 275 ; Wat- 
kins, 278 ; Rock Stream, 286 ; Starkev, 289 ; Himrod's, 293 ; Milo, 297 ; Penu 
Yan, 301; Benton, 305 ; Bellona, 307 ; Hall's, 311; Gorham, 314; Hopewell, 319 ; 
Canandaigua, 325 (Rochester, 254 ; Buffalo, 422 ; Niagara Falls, 431). 

The train leaves the Northern Central R, R. station in Baltimore, and 
runs out by the Bait. & Potomac Junction, whence it continues to the N. 
by the rural stations of Baltimore County, passing the cotton-mills at 
Woodbury and the low shores of Lake Roland. At Relay the Western 
Maryland R. R. diverges to the W. to Westminster and Hagerstown, 
and beyond Freehands the line enters Pennsylvania. From Hanover 
Junction a railroad runs W. to Gettysburg in 30 M. (see Route 59) ; and 
beyond Glatfelter's the train reaches the wealthy borough of York (see 
page 378), whose streets are traversed for a considerable distance. De- 
scending the rich Codorus Valley, the traveller soon sees the rounded 
ridges of the South Mt. on the r., and turns to the N. W. along the broad 
Susquehanna River. Beyond the Conewago Creek, York Haven is passed, 
and long islands are seen on the r. ; while above Goldsboro' the borough 



MINNEQUA SPRINGS. Route GO. 383 

of MiJdlstown is seen on the opposite shore. Thus folloAving the noble 
river, the train soon reaches Bridgeijort, whence a long bridge conducts to 
iHarrisburg, the capital of Penn. (see page 342). Beyond Bridgeport 
fine views of Harrisburg are enjoyed ; and the Conedoguinet Creek is 
passed near the base of the Blue Mt., where the line traverses a wide gap 
between picturesque mt. -promontories. 

Harrisburg to Williamsport, see pages 366, 367 (Route 55). 

From Williamsport the line ascends the Lycoming Creek through 
narrow gorges in a thinly settled region. Near Trout Ran, Bobst Mt. 
looms up on the 1., and a road leads E. to Rose Valley. Beyond the coal- 
abounding district of Ralstmi, the line passes near the Towanda Mts. and 
reaches Minnequa, a summer resort of recent origin. The Minnequa 
Springs {* Minnequa Springs Hotel ; 500 guests) are situated in a cool 
mt.-glen, 1,445 ft. above the sea, and are surrounded by rugged heights. 
The adjacent brooks afford good fishing, and athletic and adventurous 
huntsmen traverse the rugged mts. in search of game. The waters con- 
tain, in each gallon, 3^ grains of oxide of iron, and small quantities of 
the carbonates of soda, lime, and magnesia, with free carbonic acid; and 
\ of their volume is sulphuretted hydrogen. The hourly flow is 560 
gallons, and the waters are beneficial in cases of dyspepsia, consumption, 
rheumatism, and diseases of the skin and liver. 

Beyond Alba the prosperous rui-al village of Troy is passed, and the 
train speeds away to the N., across Bradford County, and enters New 
York State. At Elmira (see page 227) the Erie Railway is intersected, 
and the present route runs N. to the great summer resorts of Havana and 
Watkins Glen (see page 208). The track now follows the W. shore of 
Seneca Lake for 12 M., with pleasant views over its deep still waters (see 
page 212). At Bkj Stream is the romantic glen of the same name. Stages 
run from Starke j S. W. to the Crystal Springs (large hotel and water- 
cure; $8-14 a week), whose waters contain carbonates of lime, magnesia, 
and iron, chlorides of soda and lime, and a large amount of free carbonic 
acid. They are beneficial in cases of cutaneous diseases, dyspepsia, neu- 
ralgia, etc. The hotel is pleasantly located near the head of the Big 
Stream Hollow, and Keuka Lake is to the W. 

The train soon reaches Penn Yan, the capital of Yates County, a 
pleasant village at the foot of Keuka Lake, with 3,206 inhabitants, 5 
churches, and 3 newspapers. Steamboats leave this point at 9 A. M. and 
2.30 P. M., and ascend the lake to Hammondsport, a pretty village 
whence a narrow-gauge railroad (3 trains daily) runs up Pleasant Valley to 
Bath, on the Erie Railway. Hammondsport is the centre of an extensive 
district of vineyards, wliich cover over 7,000 acres and yield abundantly. 
The deep cellars of the Urbana and Pleasant Valley Wine Companies are 
worthy of a visit, and contain hundreds of thousands of bottles of native 



384 Route GO. KEUKA LAKE. 

wines, including sweet and dry Catawba, claret, Isabella, and choice gold- 
seal and imperial champagnes. The average yield is 3,000 pounds of 
grapes to an acre, and 2 wine companies have pressed over 2,500 tons in 
a year. This lucrative industry has sprung up since 1854, and now the 
Pleasant- Valley wines are sent to remote sections of the country. 5 
M. N. of Hanmiondsport is the summer resort known as the Grove Spring 
House. Keuka Lake is 22 M. long, and 1^ M. wide at its broadest point. 
It is 718 ft. above the sea, and 277 ft. above Seneca Lake (which is but 7 
M. distant), and is surrounded by lofty ranges of hills, whose sheltered 
slopes are the home of the vine. The N. part is divided by a remarkable 
promontory called Bhif Point, which runs 8 M. into the lake, with a 
width of 1-2 M., and a height above the water of 4-700 ft. At the 
head of the W, Branch of the lake is the secluded hamlet of Branchpoi't, 
with 5 churches and 100 dwellings. There are pleasant drives between 
Hammondsport and Crystal Springs, either by the lake-road, or by the 
way of Little Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 3 M. long, secluded among 
the highlands of Wayne. 

The first settlement in this vicinity was made in 1789 by Jemima Wilkinson, a 
woman of Rhode Island who had founded a new religious system, whereof she 
was the head, bearing the official title of " the Universal Friend." In 1786 the 
sect held a conference iu Connecticut, and resolved to move into the Western 
wilderness, where they might enjoy their peculiar ideas imdisturbed. So the 
Universal Friend, with her two "Witnesses" and the proselytes, moved West and 
settled E. of Penn Yan, the lady occupying the first frame house in Western New 
York. The settlement was derisively called Penn Yanlc by the New-Yorkers, in 
allusion to the fact that it was formed by Pennsylvanians and Yankees. 

The Northern Central train runs N. and N. W. from Penn Yan, passing 

several small rural hamlets. Beyond Benton it enters Ontario County, 

and soon reaches the populous village of Canaudaigua (see page 202). 

1 M. E. of Canandaigua, on a symmetrical hill, are the remains of the round 
fort which was held sacred by the Senecas as the i)lace of their origin. 8 M. N. 
^V. is the fortress which was destroyed in 16S7 by the Marquis de Nouville, at the 
head of 900 Hurons and 8 battalions of Frenchmen. It was a favorite seat of the 
Senecas, and was won only after a long and desperate battle. Sullivan's American 
army destroyed the Seneca town of Canandaigua (in 1779), then marched S. W. 
and swept away the villages of Honeoye and Conesus, defeated the Indians near 
Conesus Lake, and laid in ashes the Genesee Castle, with its large and well-built 
town. In this harsh cami>aign, "40 Indian towns were burned ; 160,000 bushels 
of corn in the fields or in granaries were destroyed ; a vast number of the finest 
fx'uit-trees, the product of years of tardy growth, were cut down ; hundreds of 
gardens covered with edible A^egetables were destroyed ; the inhabitants were 
driven into the forests to starve, and were hunted like wild beasts; their altars 
were overturned, and their graves trampled upon by strangers ; and a beautiful, 
well-watered country, teeming with a prosperous people, .... was desolated 
and cast back a century within the space of a fortnight." 



KENNETT SQUARE. Route 61. 385 



61. Philadelphia to Port Deposit. 

By the Phila., Wil. & Bait. R. R. to Lamokin, where the Phila. & Bait. Central 
R. R. diverges. A branch of the P., W. & B. R. R. connects with this route at 
Port Deposit, carrying passengers into Baltimore in 6^ hrs. from Phila. Fare 
from Phila. to Port Deposit, §2.45. 

Stations. — Phila. ; Lamokin Junction, 14 M. ; Knowlton, 17 ; Rockdale, 2'> ; 
West Cliester Junction, 21 ; Patterson, 23 ; Concord, 25 ; Brandywine, 27 ; 
Chadd's Ford Jimction, 30 ; Fairville, 33 ; Rosedale, 34 ; Kennett, 36 ; TougU- 
kenamon, 39; Avondale, 40; West Grove, 43; Penn, 46; Elk View, 47; Lincoln 
University, 49; Oxford, 52; Nottingham, 55; Rising Sun, 60; Colora, 62 ; C & 
P. D. Junction, 67; Port Deposit, 71 (Pen-yville, 75; Baltimore, 112). 

The train follows the line of the Phila., Wil. & Bait. R. R. (Route 62) 
as far as Lamokin, where it diverges to the N. W. and intersects the 
West Chester & Phila. R. R. Thence the road runs W, by Paterson and 
Concord to Brandywine, near the place of the great battle of Sept., 
1777 (see page 338). The train crosses the Brandywine Creek and enters 
Chester County, which Bayard Taylor has well called "a lovely repro- 
duction of English Warwickshire. " Kennett Square is a pleasant old 
hamlet N. of the track and on the State Road. It was the camp-ground 
of the royal army \inder Sir William Howe before its victory at the 
Brandywine ; and its scenery has been celebrated, in later days, in Taylor's 
poem, '' The Story of Kennett." The Eaton Female Institute receives 
summer boarders. 

J. Bayard Taylor was born at Kennett Square in 1825, and in 1842 he began 
to learn the printer's art and to write verses. In 18i4-46 he made a romantic 
pedestrian tour in Germany, Italy, and France, whose account was given in 
"Views xVfoot." Since that time his travels have been incessant, and have 
reached the most remote points, concerning Avhich he has published numerous 
interesting books, besides volumes of romance, poetry, and translations. The 
mansion of Ccrlnrcroft, at Kennett Square, belongs to Mr. Taylor, who, however, 
spends most of his time abroad. 

The train passes S. W. across an ancient and well-populated region 
where the prolific limestone soil yields large crops. Lincoln University 
is a school of the Presbyterians, founded in 1854, and having 9 instructors 
and 140 students. From the neighboring village of Oxford stages run to 
Penn Hill, Oakhill, and Peach Bottom. The train now passes S. W..to 
Port Deposit, a town of nearly 2,000 inhabitants, situated on the Susque- 
hanna River at the lower falls and 5 M. from the Chesapeake Bay. It has 
a large trade in the trans-shipment of pine lumber which is floated down 
the river in rafts from Lock Haven and Williamsport ; and there are 
granite-quarries in the vicinity. The Port Deposit Branch of the P., W. 
& B. R. R. runs S. E. along the 1. bank of the Susquehanna to Perrymlle. 

Perryville to Baltimore, see Route 62. 



17 



386 Route 62. CHESTER. 



I 



62. Philadelphia to Wilmington and Baltimore. 

By the Phila., Wil. & Baltimore R. R. in 3^-5^ lirs. — The new Limited Ex- 
press-train (Pullman cars) runs between the two cities (stopping only at Wilming- 
ton) in 2 lirs. and 40 n)in. 

Stations. — Philadeli)hia ; Gray's FeiTy, 2 M. ; 58th St. ; Mt. Moriah ; Bonaf- 
fon ; Paschall, 5 ; Darby ; Sharon Hill ; Glenolden ; Ridley Park ; Crnin Lynne ; 
Chester, 14; Lamokin, 14^; Thnrlow. 16; Linwood, 18; Claymont,20; Bellevne, 
23; Wilmington, 28; Delaware Junction, 30; Newport, 32; Stanton, 34; Price's 
Wood, 37 ; Newark, 40 ; Elkton, 46 ; North-East. 52 ; Charlestown, 55 ; Purry- 
ville, 61 ; Havre de Grace, 62 ; Aberdeen, 67 ; Perrymansville, 71 ; Edgewood, 
77 ; Magnolia, 79 ; Chase's, 83 ; Stemmer's Run, 8'.) ; Bay View ; Baltimore, 98. ^ 

The train leaves the terminal station at the corner of Broad St. and Wash- 
infjton Ave., and runs W. through a busy manufacturing quarter, passing 
tlie U. S. Arsenal and the Naval Asylum on the r. The immense build- 
ings of the Almshouse and the white monuments of the Woodland Ceme- 
tery are seen on the r. as the train crosses the Schuylkill River on the 
Neioark Viaduct, a costly structure 800 ft. long. At its W. end is the 
station of Gray's Ferry, which was named m honor of the proprietor of 
the alicient ferry at this point. Over the floating-bridge which was after- 
wards built here, Gen. Washington made a triumphal passage in 1789, 
while on his way to assume the Presidency of the new Republic. The 
through trains from New York to Washington here run on to the P., W. 
& B. tracks, after flanking the city of Phila. by way of Frankford, Fair- 
mount Park, W. Phila., and the Junction R. R. The line now bends to 
the S. W. and passes several suburban stations. Near Ridley Park is a 
large summer hotel, and the station-building at Criim Lynne is noticeable 
for its pretty decoration (as are also most of the other stations on this 
railroad). 11 M. below Phila. the traveller may see the spacious build- 
ings of the Lazaretto, the quarantine of the city. The main structtxre is 
180 ft. long, and is surmounted by a dome. Vessels from foreign ports 
are boarded at this point and examined by the health-officers. 

The Lazaretto is on Tinicum Island, near which was the fortified town of New 
Gottenhurg, "the metropolis of New Sweden." It was founded in 1643 by Lt.- 
Col. Printz of the Swedish army, the governor of Queen Christina's American do- 
mains. He arrived here in the ships Swan and Charitas, with a goodly company 
of adventurous Scandinavians, whose spiritual head was the learned Pastor Cam- 
panius. To the N. were soon erected the fortified towns of Nya Wasa and Grips- 
holm ; also the new Fort Kingsessing, whereof the Swedish annalist Avrote : " This 
was no fort, but good strong log-houses, built of good strong hard hickory, 2 
stories high, which was a fort good and strong enough to secure themselves from 
the Indians. For what signifieth a fort when the people therein boast of the 
strength of the place, and do not crave for God's assistance? And there lived 5 
freemen, who plough, sow, plant, and manure the land, and they lived very well 
there for the governor had set them there." 

The train now passes on to Chester {American House ; Columbia), a. 
thriving city of nearly 12,000 inhabitants, with foundries, car-factories, 
cotton and Avoollen mills, and great ship-yards for the manufacture of 
iron steamsliij^s. The ship-yards of John Roach cover 23 acres, and em- 



CHESTER. Route 62. 387 

ploy 2,000 men, building the great vessels of the Pacific Mail Steamship 
Line (of which the City of Pckin, recently launched, is the largest vessel 
in the world, except the Great Eastern), and other stanch and stately 
vessels. There are several quaint old hipped -roof buildings here, dating 
from the early provincial ei*a, and the churchyard of St. Paul's has many 
curious and mossy grave-stones. The holly-tree near Penn's landing- 
place (S. of Chester Creek) is shown to visitors; and the Court House 
is a venerable building which dates from 1724. The Penn. Militarif 
Academy is located in this city, and is a State school, with 10 instructors 
and 140 students. The Aston Ridge Seminary is G M. N. W. near the 
hamlet of Village Green (by plej^sant rural roads through a land of dai- 
ries); and to the N., in Springfield, is Sxoarthmore College, an institution 
of the sect of the Friends, with 18 instructors and 243 students (a station 
on the W. Chester & Phila. R. R.). 

Benjamin West was born near SiuinglieUl in 1738, of an old Quaker family, 
and soon developed an intense love for tlrawing. After 17(iO he dwelt in Europe, 
achieving a wide celebrity for historical paintings of a high order of concej)tion 
and harmonious execution. In 1792 he succeeded 8ir Joshua Reynolds as Presi- 
dent of the Royal Academy, and in 1820 he died at London. Among his chief 
works were *' Christ Healing the Sick," and " Death on the Pale Horse." 

Chester was on the Indian domain of Mocoponaca, and was settled by the 
Swedes about 1613, under the name of Uplaml (Oplandt), — being, therefore, the 
oldest town in the State. In November, 1GS2, William Penn and his companions 
landed here and bestowed n]toii the place the name which it now bears. The 
first Provincial Assembly convened at Chester, Dec. 5, 1682, and enacted a 
code of 70 laws for the government of the new settlements. The county-seat re- 
mained here for 169 years. 

Beyond Chester the Baltimore train runs through the old Marcus Hook 
district, where colonies of Finns settled in the 17th century. The village 
of Limvood was formerly called Marcus Hook, and lies in a rich dairy- 
region, ^ M. S. of the station of the same name ; 1 M. beyond which the 
train enters the State of Delaware, and follows the course of the broad 
Delaware River, by the milk-stations of Claymont, Holly Oak, Bellevue, 
and Ellerslie. The Brandywine Creek is crossed near the Old Swedes' 
Church, and the train sweeps around to the S. side of Wilmington, the 
metropolis of Delaware (see Route 63). Tlie Christiana Creek is now fol- 
lowed to the S. W., by the divergence of the Delaware R. R, Newport 
(Miller's Hotel) is a quiet and venerable hamlet on the Christiana, dating 
its origin from the Finnish immigration of 1640. Stanton is | M. W. of 
the line, on the water-shed between the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, 
and between the Red Clay and White Clay Creeks. It was settled by 
the Quakers about 2 centuries ago, and the name was given in honor of a 
prominent Quaker gentleman. The train now passes near the Iron Hills, 
where the Indian tribe of the Minquas dwelt. From the chief of these 
summits Washington watched the advance of the British army from Elk- 
ton in 1777, while Gen. Maxwell's New Jersey troops held the hills. 



388 Route 62. NEWARK. 

Lord Cornwallis advanced upon Newark in Sept., 1777, defeated Maxwell 

near Pencander, and compelled the Continental army to retire to the line 

of the Brandywine. Newark {Delaware House) is N. of the Iron Hills, 

and 1 M. N. of the station of the same name. It is a pretty hamlet, with 

several manufactories on the White Clay Creek. Tliis place has acquired 

the name of " The Athens of Delaware," on account of its educational 

facilities, consisting of 2 female seminaries, the Newark Academy (founded 

in 1749), and the Dclaioare College, a prosperous institution which dates 

from 1833, and is well endowed, 2 M. N. of Newark is a mineral 

spring with consitlerable local fame, and stages rim to Hopewell, 18 ]\f. 

distant. 

2 M. beyond Newark and about 1,000 ft. N. of the railroad are the stones which 
mark the Tangent Point of the celebrated Mamn and Dixon's line. This line 
marks the boundary between Penn and Maryland, and was located by the sur- 
veyors Charles Mason and Jeremiah Dixon in 1762- 67. It was 327 M. long and 
was marked by stone pillai-s 4 ft. high at each mile, carved with the arms of the 
Calvert and Penn. families (between whose domains it was drawn). In later daj'^s 
this boundary assumed great importance as separating the Slave States from the 
Free States, and in this phase it came to be regarded as extending across the Re- 
public from ocean to ocean. After the extinction of slavery " south of Mason and 
Dixon's line," and the close of the Secession War, this local boundary lost its na- 
tional significance and importance. 

Beyond Mason and Dixon's line the train enters the State of Maryland, 
and runs down to Elkton, a to^vn of about 1,800 inhabitants, Mie capital 
of Cecil County. It has an ancient Court House, an academy of high re- 
pute, and 4: churches. Tlie Elk River runs S. to the broad estuaries of 
the Chesapeake Bay. This village was settled in 1694 by Swedish mari- 
ners from Fort Casimir, and was called the Head of Elk for about a cen- 
tury. Aug. 25, 1777, Sir William Howe's Anglo-German army (13,000 
British soldiers and 5,000 Germans) landed on the Elk River and marched 
11 M. N. to tlie Head of Elk, whence Howe soon advanced to the short 
and victorious campaign of the Brandywine, which resulted in the con- 
quest of Philadelphia (see page 338). 

The train now crosses the Head of Elk Neck, and stops at Korth-East, a 
hamlet which was destroyed by the inarauding British fleet under Admiral 
Cockburn in 1813 (Avhcn Charlestown and several other of the Bay toAvns 
were destroyed). 9 M. N. W. is the Brick Meeting-house, which was 
built in the 17th century by William Penn. The most northerly point of 
Chesapeake Bay reaches North- East, and is crossed by a railroad viaduct. 
CliarlesUnon is S. of its station, and was settled in 1742. It was for somo 
time a commercial rival of Baltimore; but received a terrible blow from 
Admiral Cockburn's pillaging naval parties, and is noAV known only for 
its manufactories of fire-bricks. The train now traverses high embank- 
ments, from which the Chesapeake Bay is seen on the 1., and passes tho 
iron- works at Principio, on the Principio Creek, which was explored by 
Capt. John Smith in 1608. Perryville is the S. E. terminus of a branch 



HAVRE DE GRACE. Route 62. 389 

railroad to Port Deposit (see page 385). The road here reaches the broad 
and stately Susquehanna River, which was formerly crossed by the trains 
on great ferry-boats (until 1867). The bridge over which the line now 
passes is a substantial and lofty structure, ^ M. long, and costing 
% 1,250,000. Fine views of the river and its bordering hills are gained on 
either side, with the Chesapeake Bay on the 1. On the S. side of the 
Susquehanna is Havre de Grace., a thriving town of about 2,400 inhabi- 
tants, situated on ground sloping up from the water's edge. The vicinity 
of this place is noted for the wild fowl which are found late in the year. 
The town was laid out during the Revolutionary era, and was named 
Havre de Grace by some Franco-American officers who passed hitherwai'd 
on tlieir way to the southera campaigns, and saw a topographical re- 
semblance between the new town and the city of Havre, in France. 
Aberdeen is a characteristic Marjdand hamlet in the old parish of Hall's 
Cross Roads, with stages running 6 M. N. W. to Churchville. About 3 
M. beyond, the train passes (on the r., \ M. distant) the SpesiUia Church, 
a handsome Norman edifice occupying the site of the similarly named 
church which was built here in 1670. The name '^ Spes-Utie" (hope of 
Utie) was given in honor of the Utie family, so powerful and active in 
the early cohniial days ; and the church accommodates one of the oldest 
Episcopal parishes in Maryland. The train now passes Perrymansville, 
and soon crosses the great bridge over Bush River (3,189 ft. long), and 
then, beyond Edgewood and Magnolia, the Gunpowder River is crossed 
on a bridge 5,238 ft. long. To the S, E., near the mouths of these broad 
estuaries, are the most famous sporting-grounds of the Chesapeake Bay, 
where immense flocks of aquatic birds feed along the shallows and flats. 
The pursuit of canvas-back ducks forms an arduous but profitable and 
exciting sport, and several of the shooting-grounds on tlie most frequented 
islands are preserved and carefully guarded by their owners. Abbey 
Island, at the mouth of Bush River, is famous for its annual visitations 
of large water-fowl ; and CarrolVs Island, at the mouth of the Gunpowder 
River, is similarly favored. Tlie low-lying points and marshes in tlie vi- 
cinity form tine shooting-grounds, where geese and swans are found ; arid 
MaxwelVs Point, 3 M. from the Gunpowder Bridge, has good accommo- 
dations for sportsmen. The level shores near Harewood and Stemmer's 
Run are also visited for this purpose. 

Stemmer's Ran is near the head of the Middle River, and the train soon 
crosses the Back River on a wooden bridge 760 ft. long, with the Bay in 
sight on the 1. The train runs S. W. 7 M., entering the manufacturing 
suburb of Canton, and passing in sight of the harbor of Baltimore and 
Fort McHenry (on the 1.). 

Baltimore, see page 394. 



390 Route 63. WILMINGTON. 



63. Wilming^ton to Lewes and Crisfield. — The State of 
Delaware. 

By the Delaware Division of the Phila., Wihuington & Bait. R. R. and its con- 
necting lines. Wihnington to Lewes in 5i hrs.; to Crisheld in 7a hrs. 

Stations. — Wilmington ; Newcastle, 6 M.; Bear, 12; KirkAvood, 16; Mt. 
Pleasant, 21; Middletown, 25; Townsend, 29; Blackbird, 31; Green Spring, 34; 
Clayton, 37 (Smyrna) ; Brenford, 40 ; Moorton, 42 ; Dover, 48 ; Wyoming, 51 ; 
Woodside, 54; Canterbury, 5(3; Felton, 58 ; Harrington, 04 (Lewes, 104); Far- 
mington, 68; Greenwood, 72 ; Bridgeville, 76; Seaford, 84; Laurel, 90; Delmar, 
97; Williams' Siding, 100; Salisbury, 103; Forktown, 107; Eden, 110; Princess 
Anne, 116; Westover, 121; Kingston, 125; Marion, 129; Crisfield, 135. 

Wilmington. 

Hotels. — * Clayton House, an elegant new building at the corner of Market and 
6th Sts. {$3 a day) ; United States Hotel ; and several smaller houses. 

Amusements at the new tlieatre-hall in the Masonic Temple. Ueading-Eoom 
at the Wilmington Institute, corner of Market and 8th Sts. (open from 8 a. m. until 
10 p. M.). Poal-Office, corner of King and 6th Sts. 

Horse-Cars on French, Front, Market, and 10th Sts. and Delaware Ave.; and 
from the R. R. station to the centre of the city, and to Rising Sun and Christiana 
Hundred. Stages run from Grubb's Hotel to Newcastle 5 times daily; also to 
Avondale semi-weekly. 

Railroads. — The Phila., Wil. & Bait., on Water St., near French (to Phila., 
28 M.; to Bait., 70 M.) ; the Wil. & Western, at the S. side of the Market St. 
Bridge (to Landenberg, 20 M.); the Wil. & Reading, corner of Front and Madison 
Sts. (to Reading, 70 M. ). Steamers inn to Piiila. daily. 

Wilmington, the chief city of the State of Delaware, is situated be- 
tween the Brandywine and Christiana Creeks, near tlieir confluence, and 
2 M. from the Delaware River. It has 40,000 inhabitants, witli 43 
churches and several academies, and is evenly laid out in rectangular 
squares. The manufacturing interests are of great extent and value, 
foremost of which are the ship-yards, where many steam-vessels are made, 
ranging in size from the swift little tug-boat to tlie stately ocean-steam- 
ship. The Harlan & Hollingsworth Co. builds 7-8 large ships yearly, 
besides river-boats and steam-tugs. Several U. S. frigates were made here 
during the Secession War, and the yard now turns out iron steamships for 
the West India and Southern coast-lines. The flour-mills on the Brandy- 
wine grind over 1,000,000 bushels of wheat yearly; 3-4,000 carriages are 
made by 300 men; and the Dupont Powder-Mills, 3 M. to the N. W., are 
among the largest in the coitntry. There are also car and car-wheel works, 
cotton and woollen mills, shoe and leather factories, and other branches 
of mechanical industry. 

Market St. is the main thoroughfare; and the markets are at the inter- 
section of 4th St., while the quaint old City Hall is near 6th St. Grace 
Church (comer of 9th and West Sts.) is a stately Gothic building of green 
serpentine-stone from Chadd's Ford, and is one of the finest Methodist 
chvtrches in the Republic. Near this point is the massive little Sweden- 
borgian Church, situated on the broad and pleasant Delaware Avenue, 
which crosses Ihe ridge (112 ft. high) back of the city, and overlooking 



NEWCASTLE. Route 63. 391 

the broad Delaware River. St. Andrew's (8th and Sliipley Sts. ) is a plain 
structure which is the seat of the Episcopal bishop of this diocese. The 
Wilmington Institute is at the corner of 8th and Market Sts., and has a 
good librarj^ — small, but accessible. On 6th St., corner of French St., is 
the Wesleyan Female College, which is under the care of tlie Methodist 
Church. Tlie Old Swedes Church is near the Brandywine Eiver, and 
is a remarkably quaint structure, surrounded by a venerable graveyard. 
It was founded in 1698. William Penn contributed to the building-fund ; 
Queen Anne sent a Bible ; and the miners of Sweden presented a silver 
chalice and service of plate. Among the ancient tombstones is one whicli 
covers the grave of Fetrus Tranberg, rector of the parish from 1742 to 
1748. He was succeeded by Acrelius, the Swedish historian; and Girelius 
was the last of the Swedish rectors. It is claimed (with reason) that 
Peter Minuit, the founder of the city, and Reorus Torkillus, its first 
minister, are buried here. The old church, deserted and decaying for 
years, was taken by the Trinity parish, and is now kept in good order. 

The Brandywine Springs are near Wilmington, and are a favorite 
stimmer resort for Delaware families. The waters are chalybeate in 
character, and are mildly tonic in effect. A large new hotel has recently 
been opened at these Springs, situated on high land and surrounded by 
ornamental grounds. Tlie scenery of the lower Brandywine valley is very 
attractive in its quiet rural beauty, and is accessible by well-built high- 
ways. 

Newcastle {Jefferson House, facing the bay ; Butler House), the capital 
of Newcastle County, is 6 M. S. of Wilmington, on the Delaware River, 
and has about 2,000 inhabitants, 4 churches, and the plain county-build- 
ings. It has large iron-works and some commerce, and is latterly making 
considerable progress. Fort Delaware is seen, 4 M. to the S. 

In the year 1632 King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden and Chancellor Oxen- 
stiern acquired Delaware by negotiation with Holland ; and while the Swedish 
army lay at Nuremberg, sagacious plans were made lor the settlement of a new 
province. But the king was soon afterwards killed at the battle of Lntzen, 
leaving the great scheme of a free Protestant colony in America (" the jewel of 
his kingdom ") to be carried out by Oxenstiern. In 1638 Peter Minuit sailed fi-oin 
Gottenburg in the ships Ke.y of Kalnwr and Bird Grip, and founded a colony on 
the present site of Wilmington, having bought the land from the sachem Matta- 
hoon with a copi)er kettle. He built a 5-gun fort, which was named Fort Chris- 
tina, in honor of the Queen of Sweden. Fresh Scandinavian swarms soon entered 
tlie Delaware, and the rapid growth of New Sweden began to alarm the Dutch at 
New York. Both parties fortified their settlements along the bay and river, and 
the men of New Haven were expelled from the E. shore and sent home. A Bostoji 
ship which was ascending the Delaware in search of "the great lake Lynconia" 
was fired upon by the Swedish batteries, and was forced to jjay for the shot which 
had been thrown at her and to leave the river. Lt.-Col. Printz succeeded Minuit 
as governor, and built Fort Elsinburg at Varkenkil (Salem, N. J.), where the 
doughty governor, who "weighed 400 pounds, and drank 3 drinks at every meal," 
ruled in state until the fort was attacked by an enemy more terrible than the 
Yankees or the Dutch. The 8 guns of the forl^, availed nothing against the myriads 
of the assailants ; and the garrison abandoned the place, giving it the signilicant 



392 Route 63. SMYRNA. 

name of Mosquitocsberg. In 1651 Gov. Stuj-vesant of New York built Fort Casimir 
at Newcastle, to check the Swedish power; but it was captured 3 years later, and 
was named Fojt Trinitj', because the attack was made on Trinity Sunday. The 
region adjacent was called New Amstel, and was placed under the patronage of 
the city of Amsterdam, Avhence came many immigrants. In 1655 Gov. Stuyvesant 
entered the Delaware with 7 ships from New York, and captured Fort Trinity 
after a short siege. He brought his armed vessels up the creek, and established 
5 land-batteries around Fort Christma. The Dutch parallels were advancing, the 
ammunition of the fort ran low, and Gov. Rising was forced to surrender, stip- 
ulating that the Swedish troops " should march out of the fort with beating of 
drums, fifes, and colors flying, firing matches, balls in their mouths, and with 
their arms." So fell the Swedish power in Delaware, and in 1664 Fort Christina 
(which had been named Altona by the Dutch conqtierors) was taken by the 
Engli-sh. In 1739 King George II. chartered it as "the Borough of Wilmin^ 
ton " ; and in 1777, after Washingtcm's head-quarters had been removed to the 
N., the British army occupied the place. It was made a city in 1832, since which 
(and especially during the i>ast 20 years) Wilmington has become wealthy and 
prominent as a manufacturing centre. 

The Delaware R, R. runs S. from Wilmington to Newcastle, whence it 
turns to the S. W., leaving the Delaware River, and gaining the interior 
plains. Bear station is 1 M. N. of Red Lion village and its celebrated 
camp-grounds. Kirkivood station is 3 M. from the hamlet of St. George 
(St. George's Hotel), and the train thence passes S., and crosses the 
Chesapeake & Delaware Canal. From near Kirkwood the Penn. & Del. 
R. R. runs 5 M. S. E. to Delaware City, a maritime village at the outlet 
of the canal, and opposite the island where staitds Fort Delaware, a 
powerful work mounting 155 guns, and which has cost $ 1,750,000. In 
1873 a new barbette battery was commenced opposite Fort Delaware, 
designed for 6 mortars and 21 15-inch cannon. The train now runs S. 
across St. George's Hundred, by Mt. Pleasant, to Middletoimi (Middle- 
town House; National), a pretty village (4 M. W. of Odessa) whence 
great quantities of peaches ai-e shipped. From Townsend the Kent Co. 
and Queen Anne's & Kent R. Rs. run S. W. into the Eastern Shore of 
Maryland, forking at Masseys, and reaching Chestertown and Rack-Hall 
(31 and 36 M. from Townsend), and Centremlle, the capital of Queen 
Anne's County (36 M.). Chestertown is the seat of Washington College, 
which was founded in 1785 and has about 80 students. The Delaware 
R. R. next crosses Appoquinimink Hundred, and reaches Clayton, whence 
a short branch nins to Smyrna {Delaware House; Smyrna Hotel), a 
thriving hamlet of over 2,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches and a library. 
It is the second town in the State, and annually ships great quantities of 
peaches and grain. The Maryland & Delaware R. R. runs from Clayton 
44 M. S. W., across level plains, well settled and prolific, to Easton (Brick 
Hotel), the capital of the Maryland county of Talbot, near the remote 
and bay-environed peninsula of St. Michael's. 8-10 M. N. E. of Smyrna 
is Bombay Hook (Logan's Hotel, visited by sportsmen), N. of which is 
Collins' Beach (Hygenia House), a quiet summer resort on Delaware Bay 
(reached by tri- weekly steamers from Arch St. Wharf, Phila.). The train 



LEWES. Route 63. 393 

runs S. E. from Clayton to Dover {Capitol House), the capital of the 
State of Delaware, a village of 2,231 inhabitants, 8 M. from Delaware 
Bay. On the Public Square at the centre are the county buildings, tlie 
hotel, bank, Delmvarirxn office, and the neat and commodious State House. 
8 M. S. E. of Dover is the Kitt's Hammock House, on the Delaware Bay. 
Wyoming station is 1 M. from the farming centre of Camden (National 
Hotel); and the line now traverses a rich fruit-growing district to Felton 
(Fountain House), whence a highway leads E., by Frederica, to the summer 
resort of Bower's Beach (2 hotels). 

The Junction <b Breakivater R. R. runs 40 M. S. E. to Lewes. Stations. 
— Harrington; Houston, 4- Milford, 9; Lincoln, 12 ; Ellendale, 17; Rob- 
bins, 19; Georgetown, 25 ; Gravelly Hill, 29; Cool Spring, 33 ; Rehoboth, 
3G; Lewes, 40. The train traverses the broad and fruitful plains of 
Sussex County, to Milford (Milford House), a neat village on Mispillion 
Creek, beyond which it crosses the Cedar Creek Hundred, near the sports- 
men's resorts at Tlioni Point an:l Doctor's Island. Geargetotan (Union 
House; Eagle House) is a pretty hamlet, with the Sussex County build- 
ings fronting on a central circular park. The train runs N. E. to Lewes 
{AilarUic House ; United States), », maritime hamlet fronting on Lewes 
Creek and the Delaware Bay, near the immense and costly national break- 
waters, where 18 - 20,000 vessels are sheltered annually. 4 - 5 M. N. E. of 
Lewes is Cape Henlopen, one of the great Capes of Delaware, with its 
tall lighthouse and first-class liglit. A few M. S. of Lewes is Pi,ehoboth 
Beach^ a seaside resort for the Delawarians, with several small hotels and 
cottages. Terrapins, rock-fish, perch, and eels abound in tliis vicinity; 
anil near the Breakwater large quantities of black-fish and flounders are 
caught. It is claimed that Cape Henlopen has advanced 1 M. in 100 
years, and the lightliouse which was built during the colonial era is now 
1^ M. inland from the new lighthouse. The population of Lewes is of 
the nautical element, and the village is the head-quarters of the Delaware 
Bay pilots. 

In 1631 the Swedish officer De Vries came to Lewes with a colony of Scandina- 
vians on 2 ships. They planted the banner of Sweden on the lonely shores, and 
erected Fort Oplandt, in the Swanendale (" Valley of Swans"). But they were 
soon at feud with the Indians, because the latter carried off the metallic shield 
which bore the arms of Sweden to make smoking-jiipes from. Before many weeks 
the savages surprised the Europeans and totally exterminated the colony. 

The Delaware R. R. runs S. from Harrington across Mispillion Hundred 
by the fruit-raising liainlets of Greenwood and BridgeviUe (Paris Hotel), 
a centre of the peach and berry trade, and reaches Seaford ( Union Hotel), 
a large village on the Nanticoke River, whence considerable coasting-trade 
is carried on, partly by means of small steamers. The canning of oysters 
is a profitable industry at this point. The Dorchester (t Delaware R. R. 
runs 33 M. E. across the Eastern Shore of Maryland, passing Federals- 
17* 



394 Route 64. BALTIMORE. 

burg, Williamsburg, and E. Newmarket. The terminus is at Cambridge 
the capital of Dorchester Coiinty, with 1,642 inhabitants and a steamboat 
line to Baltimore. The village is on the estuary at the mouth of the 
Choptank River, where Northern colonies have lately been established. 

The main line runs S. from Seaford to Laurel (Planter's House), a rural 
village on Broad Creek, famous for its exportation of blackberries, sweet 
potatoes, peaches, and melons, beyond which it I'eaches Delniar. 

The Eastern Share R. R. runs S. W. from Delmar, passing Salisbury, 
a village of 2,064 inhabitants, situated on the Wicomico River. The train 
now traverses down through Wicomico County, Maryland, by several* 
quiet old hamlets ; passing near Princess Anne, the county-seat, and ter- 
minating at Crisjield, a maritime hamlet of 350 inhabitants, situated near 
the broad Tangier Sound. Steamers run thence to Norfolk on Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday. 

The Wicomico <i' Pocomoke <£,• Wo7'cester R. Rs. run 37 M. E. and S. through 
the populous districts of Worcester County, passing *S'^. Martin's and 
Berlin, and terminating at Snoiv Hill, an important shipping-point on 
the Pocomoke River, 20 M. from the Chesapeake waters. Farther S. are 
the quaint old towns of the Eastern Shore of Virginia. 

64. Baltimore. 

Hotels. — The *Carrollton, corner of Baltimore and Light Sts., is a new and 
stately lirst-ela.ss liotel (^3-4 a day); *Baruuni'.s City Hotel, corner of Calvert 
and Fayette Sts. (Monument ISquare), .¥4 a day; * Mount Vernon Hotel, Monu- 
ment St., near Mt. Vernon Place, a small but sumiituous hotel (European plan), 
whose rates are Quite high ; *Eutaw House, corner of Baltimore and Eutaw Sts., 
a well-famed old hotel (conducted by W. W. Leland); 8t Clair Hotel, Monu- 
ment Square, accommodating 3(l(> guests ; Guy's Monument House, European 
plan ; Maltby House, 180 - 184 \V. Pratt St. , 8 3 a day. The Albion is on Cathedral 
St., beyond the Washington Monument, and is a large family liotel; and Gittings' 
new hotel garni is on Charles St. Rcnnerfs is on Fayette St., near Monument 
Sqiiare ; the Merchants' Hotel is on Pratt St. ; and the Howard House (S 2 a day) 
is on Howard St., near Baltimore. Near the Northern Central R. R. station are 
the American, Belvidere, and Northern Central Hotels ; and the Fountain House 
is near the Bait. & Ohio R. R. station. 

Restaurants. — * Rennerfs, near Monument Square, is visited by ladies ; 
Pepper's is at 1'24 W. Baltimore St ; * Butcher's is on Baltimore St., near Calvert, 
and is principally patronized by ladies ; Wilson's, corner of Baltimore and North 
Sts. There is a restaurant at the Druid Hill Park. Confectionery and ices are 
obtained at the saloons on Baltimore and Charles Sts. The restaurants of Balti- 
more fui'nisli (in their seasons) the best of Chesapeake Bay and Norfolk oysters ; 
also the delicious game-birds of the Bay, including the reed-birds and canvas- 
back ducks. 

Batlis. — In the principal hotels, with all conveniences. Turkish and electro- 
chemical baths are given at 54 N. Liberty St. ($ 1 for Turkish ; ;;? 2.50 for electro- 
chemical ; open from 8 a. m. to 9 p. M.). 

Beading:- Kooms. — The * Peabody Institute, comer of Charles and Monu- 
ment Sts.; the Maryland Institute, on Pratt St.; the Mercantile Library (Saratoga 
and St. Paul Sts.), open from 10 a. m. to 10 p. m. ; the Maryland Historical Society 
(on introduction from a member), corner of Saratoga and St. Paul Sts.; the Y. M. 
C. A. 

Theatres. — * Ford's Grand Opera-House, an elegant auditorium opened in 
1S71 and accommodating 2,500 persons (Fayette St., near Eutaw); the new Acad- 










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I BALTIMORE. Route 61 395 

emy of Music, on Howarrl St. ; the Concordia Opera-House (comer of Eutaw and 
German Sts.), belonging to the German Concordia Society, and usually devoted 
to tlie German opera and drama (introduction to the fine billianl-hall, etc., by a 
member of the society). The Froiit St. Theatre represents burlesques and s]>ec- 
tacular pieces. Classic music is given at the Peabody Institute and in the new 
Masonic Temple, where also the best lecturers may be heard. Miscellaneous 
entertainments at the New Assembly Rooms, the hall of the Maryland institute, 
and other public halls throughout the city. The famous old Holliday Street 
Theatre was destroyed by fire in 1873, but has been rebuilt. 

Amusements. — Horse-racing is carried on, under the auspices of the Mary- 
land Jockey Club, at Plnilico, li M. from the N. W. boundary of the city. Matidi- 
games of base-ball are frequently idayed on the grounds of the Baltimore Club, 
one of the best of the professional clubs. 

Art Collections. — The annual exhibitions in the Atheneeum draw large 
crowds. The Pealxidy Institute Gallery of Art is in process of organization. 
The sales-galleries of Myers & Hedian and of Butler & Pcrigo are on Charles St. , 
and have a variety of American and French pictures. The best private gallery iu 
the city (and one of the finest in America) is that of "William T. Walter, Esq., at 
No. 65 MouTit Vernon Place. 

Horse-Cars. — To Druid Hill Park, by Baltimore and Eutaw Sts. and Madison 
Ave.; to Waverly and Peabody Heights, by Charles and Calvert Sts.; to the Balti- 
more Cemetery and Clifton Park, by Gay St. and the Bellair Road ; to Powhatan, 
fnnn the W. end of Baltimore St.; to Hall's Springs, by the Harford Road; to 
Federal Hill, Locust Point, and Fort McHeniy, from the corner of Hanover and 
Baltimoi-e Sts.; to Fell's Point and Canton, by Baltimore St., Broadway, and 
Alice Anna St.; from the President St. station, on Baltimore and Green Sts. and 
Pennsylvania Ave., to the city limits; to Greenmount Cemetery, Waverly, Go- 
vanstown, and Towsontown, by the York Road; to Franklin Square and the 
city limits, by Fnyette, Republican, Townsend, and Gilmor Sts.; to Patterson 
Park, by Lombard and Pratt Sts. Passengers can pass from one route to another 
I by means of exchange-tickets. 

Carriages. — Public hackney-carriages are entitled to 75c. for carrying a pas- 
senger from any railroad station or steamboat to any house or hotel in the city. 
Each additional i)assengcr pays 25c. ; and each trunk or box, 15c. From one 
l)oint within the city limits to another, 75c. ; 2 passengers, § 1 (children under 10 
years of age, no charge ; over 10, half price). By the hour, $ 1. 50, and ;? 1 for each 
additional hour. Tariffs of fares are placed inside the carriages, and in case of 
disac;reement with the driver, the passenger should apply to a policeman to rectify 
the trouble. 

Stages. —To Bellair, Tues., Thurs., and Sat., at 8 A. M. from Brown's Hotel ; 
to Kingsville, Kellville, and Franklmville, Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat., at 1 p. m., 
from the Rising Sun Hotel ; to Long Green and Harford Road, daily at 3 p. m., 
from the Starr Hotel; to Franklin and Powhatan daily at 3.30 p. m., from the 
Gen. Wayne Hotel ; to Pikesville daily, at 3 p. m., from the Hand Tavern. 

Railroads.— The Phila., Wilmington & Bait., to Wilmington (70 M.) and 
Phila. (9SM.); New York, ISS M. ; Boston, 422 M.; the Northern Central, to 
Harrisburg, 85 M. ; Elmira, 256 M., and Canandaigua, 325 M.; the Western 
Maryland, to Hagerstown, 84 M. ; the Bait. & Ohio, to Washington, 40 M., and 
to Cumberland (178 M.) and Wheehng (379 M.) ; the Baltimore & Potomac, to 
Washington, 43 M. Passengers who are bound to Washington on the through 
Pullman trains do not change cars here. The famous railroad tunnels under 
Baltimore are interesting ])ieces of engineering. The Bait. & Potomac R. R. 
traverses 7,520 ft. within the city limits, most of which is in brick-arched tun- 
nels, built in 1870 - 73, at an expense of i^ 2,300,000. The portions of the line which 
are not arched over are masked by deep sunken cuts. The Union Tunnel runs 
from the upper part of the city to the open track which leads to the wharves at 
Canton. The tunnel portion is 3,400 ft. long, and cost over $ 1,800,000. It is used 
chiefly for freighting and connnercial purposes, and affords transit to the 5 rail- 
roads which terminate at Baltimore. 

Steamsliips. — To Bremen, foi-tnightly ; to Liverpool^ to Havana and New 
Orleans, fortnightly; to Savannah, weekly; to Charlestown, every 5 days; to 
Wilmington, N. C, weekly; to Richmond, at 4 p. m. daily; to Fortress Monroe 
and Norfolk, at 4 p. m. daily; to Fredericksburg, Tues. and Fri., at 4 p. m. ; to 
Alexandria and Georgetown, weekly ; to Norfolk and Boston, tri-weekly ; to New 



39 G Route 64. BALTIMORE. 

York (Toy the canals) daily ; to Philadelphia, at 3 p. m. daily (by the Chesapeake & 
Delaware Canal), fare, $ 1.50. 

Chesapeake Bay Lines. — To Crisfield, Onancock, Newton, Snow Hill, Occa- 
lianock, and the Eastern Shore, at 5 p. m. on Tues., Wed., Fri.,and Sun. (from 
South St. wharf) ; to Benedict and the Patuxent jiorts, at evening on Wed., Thur., 
and Sat. (Pier 8) ; to Havre de Grace and Port Dejiosit, at 5 p. m. daily ; to An- 
napolis and West River, at 7 a. m. daily (Pier 8~) ; to Easton, Oxford, Cambridge, 
and Denton, at 9 p. m. Tues., Thur., and Sat. (Pier 3); to Crunipton and the 
Chester River i)orts, at 7 a. m. Tues., Thur., and Sat. (Pier 7). Ferries, — from 
W. Falls Ave. to Federal Hill ; from Broadway to Ijocust Point. 

Tlie liny Line of steamboats forms one of the main ])leasure-routes to the South. 
The boats leave Baltimore at 4 p. ji. (on arrival of i)assenger.s wlio leave New York 
by the 9 a. m. train), and passes down the Chesapeake B.ay, connecting at Ports- 
mouth, Va. (early the next morniug), with the Seaboard & Roanoke R. R. for the 
South-Atlantic States. 

Baltimore, the metropolis of the State of Maryland, and one of the 
chief commercial cities of the Kepiiblic, is situated on a deep and narrow 
estuary 2^ M. from the Patapsco River and about 14 M. from Chesa- 
peake Bay. It is favorably located for commerce by reason of its fine 
harbor and an open connection wdth the sea either by Cliesapeake Bay or 
by the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal (200 M. ). Several railroads from 
the West converge here, and large shipments of grain are made to Europe. 
The city is the chief point for working the rich copper-ores of Lake Su- 
perior, besides great quantities from Chili and Cuba, and produces nearly 
4,000 tons of refined copper yearly. The smelting- works are in the suburb 
of Canton, and employ 1,000 men. Millions of feet of lumber are re- 
ceived here every year, and are piled near Jones' Falls. The bituminous 
coal of the Cumberland district and the anthracite of the Susquelianna 
Valley are brought hither to the amomit of nearly 1,000,000 tons annually. 
Tliere are large iron-works and rolling-mills; nail-factories turning out 
100,000 kegs yearly; and 2 locomotive-factories. 50,000 hogsheads of 
tobacco are received yearly, being provided for in large and dry fire-proof 
•warehouses belonging to the State. 1,000,000 barrels of flour are in- 
spected here yearly, and enormous quantities of grain pass to Europe by 
til is port. The new^ elevator at Locust Point has 52 bins and a capacity 
of 1,500,000 bushels, and the docks and railroads in that part of the city 
greatly facilitate the trans-shipment of coal and grain. 500,000 hides are 
annually made into leather and sent to the New England States, and shoe- 
factories are now being successfully established. 300,000 barrels of sugar 
are refined yearly; 400,000 barrels of whiskey are sold; 40,000 bales of 
cotton are used in the mills; 1,500,000 pounds of wool are made into 
cloth; 40,000 tons of Peruvian guano are imported ; 25 firms are engaged 
in packing Chesapeake Bay oysters; thousands of h-ands are employed in 
manufacturing clothing; coffee and other West Indian products are im- 
ported in immense quantities; pianos are made in great numbers; and 
over $10,000,000 woi'th of live stock are sold here. These returns of the 
trade of Baltimore date from 7 years ago, and are far exceeded by the 



BALTIMORE. Route 64. 397 

present conditions. Many of the fleetest and most beautiful vessels of the 
American commercial marine are made here, and the reputation of the 
" Baltimore Clippers " is world-wide. The cliief manufactures of the city 
are on the fine water-powers of Gwynne's and Jories' Falls. 

The population of the city was 267,354 in 1870, and is now estimated 
at over 300,000, with a valuation of $225,000,000. The tonnage of the 
port is 250,000 tons, and it lias a foreign commerce of $ 20,000,000 a year. 
There are 20 banks and 9 savings banks, and 5 daily and several weekly 
newspapers. The city is picturesquely situated on a cluster of hills, and 
is surrounded by a fertile and (Iiversitied country. The municipal limits 
cover about 12 square M., and are bounded on the N. by North Ave., a 
fine thoroughfare 100 ft. wide and 4 M. long. The business quarter is 
between Eutaw St., Baltimore St., Jones' Falls, and the basin, and has 
many fine mercantile buildings ; while the W. part of the city is devoted 
to pleasant residence-streets. 

Baltimore St. is the main thoroughfare of the retail trade, and affords 
a brilliant spectacle on pleasant afternoons. Here may be seen thousands 
of the ladies of Baltimore, who are pre-eminent among their American 
sisters for brilliant and enduring beauty and vivacity. The * City Hall 
is a new edifice on the corner of Lexington and Holliday Sts., and is one 
of the most imposing municii^al buildings in America. It was built 
between 1867 and 1874, and cost nearly $3,000,000. The architecture is 
Renaissance and composite, with many graceful Palladian arches ; and 
the building is surmounted by a round tower and dome, 222 ft. high. 
The walls are 5-7 ft. thick, of Maryland marble, and all the floors are 
of iron, brick, and cement. There are 200 rooms and 2 inner court yards, 
and the front is adorned with Corinthian columns. The dimensions of 
this municipal palace are 225 x 140 ft., and its general effect is to be 
improved by the removal of the adjacent buildings. The U. S. Court 
House is near the City Hall (corner of North and Fayette Sts.), and is a 
plain and substantial grani'te building. 

The Battle Monument is one of the fine works of memorial art which 
Lave won for Baltimore the title of "the Monumental City." It was 
erected in 1815 to honor the memory of the soldiers who fell in defending 
the city against the British, in Sept., 1814. It is 52 ft. high, and rests 
on a base 20 ft. high (in Egyptian architecture). The shaft is in the form 
of the Roman fasces, bound together with fillets whereon are inscribed 
the names of the fallen soldiers. At the base are bas-reliefs of the battle 
of North Point and the bombardment of Fort McHenry; and the shaft is 
surmounted by a colossal female figure representing the city of Baltimore, 
mural-crowned, and bearing in one hand a rudder (emblematic of her 
commerce) and in the other a wreath of laurel. 

Passing N. from Monument Square and its great hotels, Calvert St. 



398 Route 64. BALTIMORE. 

soon reaches the Calvert Spring, around which a small public square is 
laid out. The monument wliich was erected here in honor of Gen. 
Armistead (the defender of Fort McHenry) has fallen into decay. A 
short distance beyond this point is the Calvert Station of the Northern 
Central R. R., an imposing building 315 ft. long, with 42 cohamns of 
granite. St. Ignatius Church and Convent (Jesuit) is at the corner of 
Calvert and Madison Sts., and is renowned for its brilliant frescos. The 
Loyola College is a Jesuit institution at the corner of Madison and 
Calvert Sts., with 10 instructors, 141 students, and a library of 25,000 
volumes. Madison St. leads E. to the great new castellated building of 
granite and marble (404 ft. long) which is occupied for the City Jail, near 
which are the dark and frowning walls of the Penitentiary. 

The Athenaeum is at the corner of St. Paul and Saratoga Sts., and 
contains the Mercantile Library and Reading-Rooms (35,000 volumes ; 
open from 10 a. m. until 10 P. M.), the Baltimore Library (15,000 vol- 
umes), and the halls of the Maryland Historical Society (2d story). The 
latter society has a library of 10,000 volumes; a collection of curiosities, 
among which is Pulaski's faded banner (see page 302); and numerous 
casts and paintings, among which are portraits of George Peabody, Lord 
Baltimore, and 18 eminent soldiers and statesmen of Maryland. In the 
picture-gallery are held exhibitions of American paintings. 

The new * Masonic Temple is an imposing structure (on Charles St., 
near Saratoga St.), which was dedicated in 1870, and cost $400,000. The 
main hall is much used for concerts and lectures. Above the Temple 
is St. Paul's Church, the seat of the Episcopal Bishop of Maryland. It 
is on the corner of Saratoga and Charles Sts., and overlooks the Old 
Town. The architecture is Norman, with an interior adorned with 
memorial tablets, a timber roof, and a fine brass lectern, and resembling 
the old basilicas. It occupies the site of an older church of the same 
name and sect, which was founded by the provincial authorities in 1731. 
To the W. (corner of Saratoga and Park Sts.) is the tall church of St. 
A Iphonsics, held by the German Catliolics. 

The * Cathedral is an imposing structure of granite, situated at the 
corner of Cathedral and Mulberry Sts. It is 166 ft. long and 115 ft. broad 
in the transepts, and is surmounted by a dome 127 ft. high. The interior 
contains one of the largest organs in America (600 pipes and 36 stops), and 
2 fine paintings, — The Descent from the Cross, presented by Louis XVI. 
of France (painted by Stubens) ; and St. Louis burying his Soldiers slain 
before Tunis, given. by Charles X. (painted by Paul Guerin). The massive 
front is flanked by graceful towers, and is adorned with a bold classic 
portico upheld by 8 Ionic columns. The building was commenced in 1806 
and consecrated in 1821. Under the adjacent mansion of the Primate 
Archbishop are the crypts in which are buried the past archbishops of 
this diocese. 



BALTIMORE. Route 64. 399 

The Academy of Sciences has recently taken possession of its new build- 
ing on Mulberry St. (opposite Cathedral St. ), and has on exhibition a fine 
museum of natural sciences. The fauna and flora of Maryland are 
thoroughly represented, and the mineralogical and ornithological collec- 
tions represent types from all lands. 

Beyond the Cathedral, at the corner of Charles and Franklin Sts., is the 
classic front of the First Unitarian Church, on whose pediment is a re- 
markable piece of statuary. This quaint structure is entered by 3 bronze 
doors. The Convent of the Visitation has a spacious pile of buildhigs at 
the corner of Park and Centre Sts. In advancing up Charles St., the 
Washington Monument is seen on the crest of the hill, with the Peabody 
Institute on the r. Fronting the monument is the elegant * Mount Vernon 
Church (Methodist), which is built of green serpentine from Delaware, 
trimmed with yellow Ohio stone, red Connecticut sandstone, and polished 
Scotch granite. 

The * Washington Monument is the pride of Baltimore, and is situ- 
ated on an eminence 100 ft. above tide, at the intersection of Mt. Vernon 
and Washington Places. From a base 50 ft. square and 20 ft. high, rises 
a Doric shaft of marble masonry to the height of 176^ ft., which is sur- 
mounted by a colossal statue of Washington 16 ft. high. The monument 
was built between 1815 and 1829, and cost $ 200,000. The ascent to the 
base of the statue is effected by 228 steps, leading up on a circular stair- 
way through the dark shell of the shaft (admission fee, 15c. ). The * view 
from the summit is broad and interesting, and includes the densely popu- 
lated streets of the city, with its spires and squares ; the harbor and ship- 
ping, with Forts McHenry and Carroll, and the Chesapeake Bay ; the dark 
hills of Anne Arundel ; and the villas and parks, asylums and cemeteries, 
on the suburban heights. The Monument stands at the central point of a 
cross which is formed by the intersection of Mount Vernon and Washing- 
ton Places, whose narrow and verdant lawns are flanked by fine mans.ions. 

The * Peabody Institute is near the Monument, and is a stately 
marble building, 115 ft. long. The Institute consists of the departments 
of literature, music, lectures, and art, and was designed by its munificent 
founder for the diffusion of knowledge among the masses. The library is 
free to all comers, and consists of 60,000 volumes, occupying a hall 100 ft. 
long. The lecture-hall is the finest in the city (except the new Masonic 
Hall), and is used by the highest class of lecturers (also by concerts of 
classic music). Cheap instruction is here given in music and singing by 
professors of skill and eminence. The Gallery of Art is not yet com- 
pleted ; but the lobby of the library contains a statue of Venus, a bust of 
Pocahontas, and a graceful * statue of Clytie, by Rinehart. There is a 
fine full-length portrait of Mr. Peabody in the upper corridor, near th.e 
library. 



400 Rmte 64. BALTIMORE. 

George Peabody was born at S. Danvers (now called Peabody), Mass., in 1795. 
He bet-anie a grocery clei'k at 11 ; was then engaged in the dry-goods business in 
Newburyport, New Ynrk, and Baltiiiun-e, in succession ; and in 1843 became a 
banker in London. His gains were large, and his benefactions x>rincely. Among 
them were, S 10,000 to the Grinnell Arctic, expedition, !:; 30,000 to the Newbury- 
port Library; a memorial church at Georgetown, Mass. (to his mother's mem- 
ory); §'J0(),()00 to his native town; -SluO.OOO eacli to Harvard and Yale Col- 
leges ; * 1,400,000 for the Listitute at Baltimore ; § 2,000,000 to the Southern Edu- 
cational Fund ; and .s 2,500,000 to the ])0or of the city of London. He was offered 
tlie honors of knighthood ; received from Queen Victoria her i)ortrait set in diji- 
nionds ; was given the ireedom of the city of London ; and after his death (18G9) 
his remains were sent to America in funeral state on one of the finest vessels of 
the British navy. 

In this vicinity are several handsome churches. The First Presbj-terian 
(corner of Madison and Park Sts.) is a buikling of Albert freestone, in 
lancet Gothic architecture (the spire is to be 286 ft. high). The Emanuel 
Episcopal Church (comer of Reed and Cathedral Sts.) is a massive struc- 
ture of gray sandstone, and Grace Cliurch (corner of Monument and Park 
Sts. ) is a brown-stone building with a clere-story . Christ Church is a new 
and elegant marble temple of the Episcoi^alians, situated at the corner of 
St. Paul and Chase Sts. ; and still farther out (near the corner of Charles St. 
and North Ave. ) is the costly building of the Maryland Institution for the 
Instruction of the Blind. Beyond this point Charles St. runs on into the 
open country, traversing a picturesque region dotted with villas and parks. 
Tills road forms a pleasant drive as far as Lake Roland (6 M. distant). 

The * Exchange is a fine building 240 ft. long, with porticos of mon- 
olithic Ionic columns of Italian marble. It is on Gay St., between 2d 
and Lombanl Sts., and was built in 1820 (after Latrobe's designs) at a 
cost of $600,000. The structure is surmounted by a dome 115 ft. high 
and 53 ft. in diameter, which is brilliantly frescoed and overarches a 
spacious rotunda. The U. S. Custom House, the Post-Office, and other 
public institutions are located here. Near this point is Exchange Place, 
Avhere much of the wholesale trade is done; and the financial head-quarters 
are along South St. and 2d St. Farther S. is the Basin, lined with 
wharves and small vessels ; and the Corn Excluinge has a handsome hall 
between Pratt St. and the water. The Rialto Building is a fine Renais- 
sance structure at the corner of 2d and Holliday Sts ; and at the corner 
of Baltimore and South Sts. is the tall iron building of the Sim news- 
paper. To the E. (corner of Baltimore St. and Harrison) is the Mary- 
land Institute, a spacious brick building which dates from 1854, and is 
devoted to the advancement of the mechanic arts. The lower hall is 
occupied by the Centre Market (fine disj^lays of Maryland produce), and 
above are the library (20,000 volumes), schools of design, and the great 
hall, where industrial exhibitions are held in October of each year. The 
hall accommodates over 5,000 persons, and is historically interesting as 
the seat of the seceding Southern Democratic Convention of 1860, which 
nominated Breckinridge for the Presidency of the Republic. 



BALTIMORE. Rjuie64. 401 

Beyond the Institute Baltimore St. crosses Jones' Falls, a small stream 
which rises about 20 M. distant, and flows down through a picturesque 
valley. In the rainy season it becomes turbulent and dangerous, and 
sometimes floods the lower part of the city, causing immense damage and 
loss of life. Beyond the Falls Baltimore St. leads, by the fine building 
of the 2d Presbyterian Church, to Broadway, a wide and beautiful 
street which nms S. to the Fell's Point Market and the harbor. The 
Eastern Fountain (a small park around a sprmg of fresh water) is on 
this side, and is much visited by the German citizens on summer even- 
ings. Baltimore St. continues on to Patterson Park, a pleasant public 
garden of 70 acres area, containing the remains of old earthworks erected 
for the defence of the city. The view from this park is broad and 
pleasant, including the dense lines of houses stretching down the valley 
of Jones' Falls, the monument-crowned heights beyond, the great copper- 
works in Canton, and a wide sweep of the Patapsco and the Bay. To 
the N. is an undidating rural country, on one of whose ridges is seen the 
Bay View Asylum, an imposing buildhig 714 ft. long and 3 stories high, 
situated in an ornamental i)ark of 48 acres, and overlooking the bay and 
city. It cost $1,000,000, required 7,000,000 bricks for the construction, 
and accommodates 800 paupers. 

The Odd Fellows' Monument is on Broadway, above Wildey St., and 
consists of an inscriljed base, a pedestal carved with emblems of the 
order, and a flutetl Doric column, which supports a statue of Charity 
protecting orphan children. 

This nioiuunent is a memorial to Thomas Wildey, the founder of the Independent 
Order of Odd Fellows iu America. April 26, 1819, Mr. Wildey. an obscure English 
mechanic, formed and instituted at Baltimore the Washington Lodge, No. 1, I. <>. 
O. F., the lirst lodge in AmcricA of that powerful order, which by 1865 numbered 
427,000 members, and had raised .1527,000,000 for charitable works. Wildey trav- 
elled through all parts of the country founding new lodges, and died in 1801, " the 
lips of the .atherless and widow invoking blessings upon him." April 26, 1865, the 
city was made brilliant by the processions of an immense host oi Odd Fellows, 
who then met to dedicate the monument, and to renew the fraternal ties which 
had been broken by the Secession War. 

Jackson Sqxiare is near the monument, but is yet unimproved. It is on 
the crest of the ridge, and overiooks the Chesapeake. To the W. is the 
Church Home, a charitable institution under the care of the Episcopal 
Church. The old Maryland Hospital is on Monument St., E. of Broad- 
way (the site of the new Johns Hopkins Hospital); and the Hebrew 
Hospital is in the same vicinity. 

The Odd Fellows' Hull is on Gay St., and is a handsome Gothic build- 
ing with a square tower, containing a large library. The Church of the 
Messiah is at the corner of Gay and Fayette Sts. ; and at tlie corner of 
Fayette and Front Sts. is the Merchants' Shot Toiver, 246 ft. high and 
20-40 ft. in^liameter. The masonry contains 1,100,000 bricks, and the 



402 Route 64. BALTIMORE. 

top oscillates through 10 inches during heavy winds. Gay St. runs out 
by the Bellair Market, and })asses (at the intersection of Aisquith and 
Monument Sts.)the Wells and McComas Monument, a plain memorial 
in Ashland Square, erected over the remains of the young soldiers who 
shot Gen. Ross, the British commander (Sept. 12, 1812). 

The Hanover Market is a spacious building at the corner of Camden 
and Hanover Sts., beyond which (on Camden St. ) is the Camden Station 
of the Baltimore & Ohio R. R., with a front 308 ft. long, adorned with a 
steeple 185 ft. high. At the corner of Lombard and Greene Sts. are the 
old buildings of the School of Medicine of the University of Maryland 
(founded 1807 ; 8 professors and 170 students). The Medical School of 
the Washington University has 9 professors and 147 students ; and the 
College of Dental Surgery has I) professors and 69 students. At the 
corner of Greene a)id Fayette Sts. is the Westminster Presbyterian 
Church, in whose burying-ground is the neglected grave of Edgar Allan 
Foe (born at Baltimore in 1811, and died here in 1849). This erratic 
genius passed his short life in reckless misadventure, but achieved an un- 
fading fanie for the fantastic beauty and marvellous melody of his poems. 

Franklin Square is a pleasant public ground in the W. i)art of the 
city, on which fronts a Baptist Clmrch of white marlde; and the ornate 
iron building of Bethany Methodist Church is on the farther angle of the 
square, near the Gothic buildings of the Homes for Aged Men and Women. 

The Madison Ave. horse-cars, on their way to Druid Hill, pass near the 
tall marble spire of the Eutaw Place Baptist Church (designed by Walter); 
and at the corner of Druid Hill Ave. and Lanvale St. is the broad and im- 
posing marble church of St. Peter (Episcoi)al). St. Luke's is near Frank- 
lin Square, and has the richest stained-glass windows in the city (repre- 
senting the Messianic history). This society is Ritualistic in its position 
and ceremonies. The N. W. part of the city and the avenues leading 
toward Druid Hill are being rapidly occupied by fine residences. 

* Druid Hill Park is about \ M. N. of the city limits, and is reached 
by the Madison Ave. horse-cars. It covers about 680 acres, and has cost 
over $ 1,500,000. In 1860 the city bought the old Rogers estate (on this 
site), consisting of 500 acres, and adorned with groves and lawns which 
were laid out over a century ago. The chief attraction of the park is 
in its rich forest-scenery and picturesque diversity of surface ; and well- 
gi-aded roads and paths traverse the grounds in all directions. The trees 
are the grandest and oldest in any American park, and were skilfully 
arranged by the pre-Revolutionary landscape-gardener, so that the har- 
monies and contrasts of the colors of the foliage are very pleasing to the 
eye. Forest glades and dark gi-een vistas alternate with velvety lawns 
and breezy hills; and tlie immense tninks of the ancient oak and hickory 
trees rise like columns through the forests. Certain of tli« more promi- 



BALTIMORE. Route G/f. 403 

nent of these trees have received significant names, as the Sentinels, the 
King of the Woods, the Seven Oaks, the Twin Beeches, and the Council 
Grove (a cluster of noble oaks under whose brandies the Indians formerly 
met in council). 

The horse-cars nm far into the park, and the entrance is through a 
handsome archway of dressed stone. There is but little artistic or ar- 
chitectural embellishment on the grounds, since such ornament has been 
considered superfluous in view of the other attractions. Some of the 
springs which flow freely near the drives have been adorned with marble 
work, and there are a few pieces of indifi"erent statuary. Near the centre 
is the old Rogers mansion, which is 326 ft. above the tide, and commands 
pleasant views. To the N. is a conical hill whence another and broader 
prospect is gained, the altitude being 366 ft. ; and still another favorite 
view-point is from the tower near Druid Lake. The city is seen, with its 
monuments and spires; the Patajtsco lies beyond ; and the Chesapeake 
Bay is overlooked as far down as Kent's Island and Annapolis. 

The High Service Reservoir is in the N. W. part of the park, and covers 
9 acres, — furnishing a water-supply to the hills of Baltimore. Druid 
Lake is on the S., and is a natural basin with a water-surface of 55 acres, 
with 20-39 ft. of water, and a capacity of 600,000,000 gallons (217 ft. 
above tide). The water-supply of the city is drawn from Lake Rolandy 
an artificial reservoir 8 M. to the N. W., covering 116 acres, and retained 
by a stone dam 60 ft. thick and 40 ft. high. An oval brick aqueduct 5 M. 
long and 6 ft. higli leads to the Hampden and Mount Royal Reservoirs. 

* Greenmount Cemetery is about 2 M. N. of Baltimore St. (by York 
Road horse-cars), and covers 60 acres. It was founded in 1838, upon the 
former domain of Robert Oliver, and has cost $250,000. The landscape- 
gardening and embellishment have been done with much skill, and the 
grounds are carefully guarded (tickets of admission may be obtained at 
No. 1 Cortland St.). The entrance is an imposing piece of feudal archi- 
tecture, 80 ft. long, and surmounted with turrets. Opposite this point is 
the quaint and striking Gothic chapel, and the Mausoleum is a massive 
structure in Egyptian architecture. There are some choice pieces of 
sculpture here, chief among which are Rineliart's fine Avorks, " Immor- 
tality " and " The Sleeping Children." The symbolic statues of " Hope " 
and "Resignation" are also much admired. The grave of Major Ring- 
gold (a veteran of the Mexican War) is fenced in by Mexican gun-barrels. 
The McDonogh Monument is adorned by a portrait-statue (^ larger than 
life) of John McDonogh, an eccentric gentleman who was born at Balti- 
more in 1778, and removed to New Orleans in 1800, where he died in 
1850. His immense fortune was bequeathed to the cities of New Orleans 
and Baltimore, and to the American Colonization Society. The monu- 
ment was erected by the municipality of Baltimore. 



404 Route 61 BALTIMORK 

The * Loudon Park Cemetery is 2^ - 3 M. from the centre of the city 
(Franklin Scjuare and Ellicott City cars), and covers 100 acres. The 
grounds are picturesquely diversified, and from the hills pleasant views 
of the city and bay are gained. The * Fitzgerald mausoleum is adorned 
with statues of " The Redeemer" and " The Angel of the Resurrection," 
and with finely sculptured vases (all by Rinehart). The entrance t6 
Loudon Park is through an imposing gateway, which resembles a tri- 
umphal arch. 

The Baltimore Cemetery is a large and well-arranged ground occupying 
the heights N. E. of the city (reached by Gay St. horse-cars). 

Federal Hill is S. of the centre of the city, and is a prominent land- 
mark over the Bay and Basin. The views from the summit are very* 
interesting, including the city and the adjacent waters. After Gen. 
Biitler's night-march and occupation of this hill, it Avas fortified by 
Duryea's Zouaves, to guard the city against her foes (whether foreign 
or domestic). Fort McHenry is about 3 M. from the City Hall, on 
Whetstone Point, and commands the harbor. It is a star-work of the 
old style (built in 1794), and has a moderate armament. The sentinels 
will usually admit visitors, and pleasant vieAvs of the harbor ai-e alTorded 
from the ramparts. 4 M. below, and commanding the Patapsco, is the 
artificial island which sustains the costly and powerful Fort Carroll (not 
yet completed), Avith its heavy artillery. Just above Fort McHenry is 
Locust Point, where are the docks of the European steamers and the 
immense elevators and freight-depots of tlie Bait. & Ohio R. R., whence 
the grain and coal shipments are made. Fort McHenry and Locust Point 
are reached by the S. Baltimore horse-cars, whicli run S. from the corner 
of Baltimore and Hanover Sts, 

The Maryland Hosinta.l for the Insane occupies an estate of 136 acres 
6 M. from the city, near the suburb of Catonsville. Since 1852 the State 
has appropriated over .$400,000 to this work, and a massive pile of build- 
ings has been erected on the far-viewing heights. It is 500 ft. long, and 
accommodates 300 patients, the walls being of heavy granite masonry. 
The Sh^ppard Asylum for the Insane is 7 M. from the city, near Towson- 
town, and was endow^ed by Moses Sheppard, a Avealthy Quaker, who left 
$ 600,000 for the purpose. The Mount Hope Hospital for tlie Insane is 4 
M. distant, on the Reisterstown road, and is an immense brick building 
situated amid ornamental grounds. It cares for 500 patients, and is 
managed by ^the Sisters of Charity, who also superintend the Mount 
Hope Asylum, at the corner of North Ave. and Bolton St. St. Mary's 
Industrial School for Boys is 2 M. S. W. of the city, and is an immense 
stone building Avhich accommodates 400 boys. The Johns Hopkins Hos- 
pital is being raised on the site of the old Maryland Hospital, and will 
be, perhaps, the finest in America. The endowment is immense, being 



BALTIMORE. Route 64. 405 

stated as over $2,000,000. Mr. Hopkins died in 1874, bequeathing also 
his estate of Clifton (near the city) and an endowment of $2,000,000 
with which to found a University there. It opens in Oct., 1876. 

The lirst settler on the site of Baltimore was David Jones, m 1682 ; and in 1730 
the town was laid out, and was named ui honor of Ceeilius Calvert, Lord Balti- 
more, the proprietary of Maryland, —who derived his title from the obscure ma- 
rine liamlet of Baltimore, on the Irish (Munster) coast. The new settlement was 
imperilled by the advance of the Western Indians in 1755, and its women and 
childreJJ were put on the vessel-; in the liarbor, ready to flee down the Bay. In 
1756 a colony of exiled French families from Acadia settled here and erected the 
first Catholic chapel. (It is generally supposed that Baltimore is a Catholic city, 
but such is not the case. It was founded by Episcopalians and Friends, and a 
considerable nugority of the citizens are Protestants or secularists.) In 1768 the 
county-seat was fixed liere ; in 1773 the Maryland Journal and Baltiiuore Adver- 
tiser was founded ; an<l in 1776 the Continental Congress assembled here. The 
I»ort was now becoming famous for its exportations of tobacco and grain. In 
1776 fortifications were erected ; in 1778 Pulasl^i's Legion was organized here, and 
Baltimore i)rivateers began to scour tlie coast; in 1780 the first theatre was 
ojjened ; in 1782 a stage-hue began to run to Philadelphia ; in 1797 the town was 
made a city ; and in 1803 Baltimore was made the seat of the Primate of the Ro- 
man Catholic Church in the U. S. 

The increase of tlie i)opulation of Baltimore has been from 200 in 1752 to 5,934 
in 1775 ; 13,503 in 1790; 26,514 in 1800; 62,738 in 1820; 102,313 in 1840; 217,000 
in 1860 ; 267,354 in 1370 ; and (estimated) 330,000 in 1876. 

At tlie outbreak of the Secession War, strenuous attempts were made to detach 
Ma lyland from tlie Union, and to cut off Washington from the loyal North by 
raising Baltimore in revolt. The great majority of the people were patriotic and 
loyal, but tlirongs of secessionists came into the city, and made incendiary ad- 
dresses and riots. April 19, 1861, there arrived at tlie President St. station 2,000 
U. S. soldiers (being part of the national militia called out by the President). 
The 6tli Mass. startetl across the city to take the cars at the Washington station ; 
but the rear cars (containing 4 companies) were cut off and stopped, and the troops 
were forced to march under the attacks of an immense and infuriated mob. Along 
Pratt St., between Gay and Calvert Sts.. the hostile crowd (numbering probably 
10,000 men) made a heavy attack on the little band, upon which tlie Mass. soldiers 
turned and fired a scathing volley into tlieir faces. At last the Washington .station 
wa.i reached, after tlie troops liad lost 3 killed and 18 wounded (the mob had 9 
killed and many wounded). The 6th then hurried away to Washington, and was 
the first regiment wliich arrived at the imperilled capital. The secession mob 
hurried back to the President St. station, and fell upon a force of 1,000 unarmed 
soldiers of Penn. The Union citizens of Baltimore were now hurrying to the 
rescue, and stood shouldei to shoulder with the Pennsylvanians throughout a 
fight of 2 hours' vluration. The secessionists tiien controlled the city, and liurned 
the bridges leading to the N. ; forl)ade the passage of the national militia ; and by 
ordinance of the Common Council made it an offence to display the American Hag 
in the streets. May 1, the Unionists raised a flag over the Exchange amid un- 
bounded enthusiasm, singing the " Star-Spangled Banner " General Scott planned 
to crush the small but active Secession party iu Baltimore by a campaign ot 
12,000 men converging on the citv from 4 points; but Gen. Butler seized the 
Relay House (Washington Junction). 9 M. distant ; and during tlie stormy night 
of Mav 13 entered Baltimore with the 6th Mass., tlie 8th N. Y., and the Boston 
Light'Artillery. Pushing through the deserted streets, the troops occupied the 
summit of Federal Hill, commanding the city with their artillery. Baltimore 
was soon purged of its demagogues and traitors, and remained thereafter as patri- 
otic as any city of the Union, i. OA rni J- 

The Republican National Convention held its sessions at the Front St. Iheatre 
in 1834, and nominated Abraham Lincobi for the Presidency. When the Confed- 
erate army advanced into .Alaryland in 1863 and 1864, the citizens of Baltimore 
took up arms and fortified their city against an expected attack of the Southern 
invaders. In 1S65 the restoration of the National authority throughout the some- 
time insurgent States was celebrated here by grand illumuiations and parades. 



406 Route 65. ELLICOTT CITY. 



65. Baltimore to the West. 

By the Baltimore & Ohio R. R., one of the main trunk-lines between the Atlan- 
tic seaboard and the gi'eat States and cities of the interior. Cars run from Bal- 
timore to Columbus, Cincinnati, and St. Louis witliout change ; and l)ut one 
change is made by passengers between Baltimore and Omaha, Memphis, Mobile, 
New Orleans, or Denison (Texas). Baltimore to Cumberland, 7^-8 hrs. ; to 
Parkersburg, 16-17 hrs.; to Cincinnati, 22-24 hrs. ; to St. Louis, 37-38 hrs. 
/Tares. — Baltimore to Washington, Sl.IiO; to Pittsburgh, !g9.50; to Wheeling, 
$12.50; Columbus, $13.36; Parkersburg, §15.20; Cincinnati, §16; Chicago, 
1:^17; St. Louis, $23. 

The Baltimore & Ohio R. R. is interesting to the tourist as passing through the 
(lcV)atable ground over wliicli tlie National and Confederate armies fouglit during 
tiie years of the Secession War. For the first ISO M. of its course there is scarce- 
ly a town but what was the scene of battle or skirmish or hostile occupation ; and 
scarcely a bridge but what was destroyed by raiding cavalry or retreating armies. ^ 
The scenery along the line is of great interest and becomes sul)lime during the 
long ascent and passage of tlie Alleghany Mts. Several largje hotels have been 
established on the road, and are o])erated by tlie company, attbrding facilities for 
meals to passengers on througli trains, wliich stop at the liotel-stations. 

Stations. — Baltimore ; Carroll Switch, 2 M. ; Camden Junction, 4 ; Wash- 
ington Junction, '.> ; EUicott City, 15 ; Elysville, 20 ; Woodstock, 25 ; Maniotsville, 
27; Sykesville, 32; Mount Airy, 43; Monrovia, 50; Frederick Junction, 58 
(Frederick, 62); Point of Rocks, 69 (Metropolitan Branch, to Washington, 112 M. 
from Baltimore); Berlin, 75; Hagerstown Junction, 70; Sandy Hook, 80 ; Har- 
per's Ferry, 81 ; Dufficld's, 87 ; Kearncysville, 02 ; Vanclievesville, 95 ; Martinsburg, 
100; North M<mntain, 107; Sleepy Creek, 117; Hancock, 122; Sir John's Run, 
128; Willett's Run, 133 ; Rockwell's Run, 130 ; Little Cacapon, 156; Green Spring, 
163; Patterson's Creek, 170; Cumberland, 178; Brady's Mill, 185; New Creek, 
201 ; Piedmont, 206; Bloomington, 208; Fi-ankville, 214; Swanton, 220; Alta- 
mont, 223 ; Oakland, 232; Cranberry Summit, 242 ; Cheat River, ^53 ; Tunnelton, 
260 ; Newburg, 267; Thornton, 274; Grafton, 280 ; Texas, 204; Fairmont, 302 ; 
Farmington, 312 ; Mannington, 319; Burton, 330; Little on, 337 ; Bellton, 344; 
Cameron, 351 ; Rosely's Rock, 3G2 ; Benwood, 375 ; Wheeling, 379 ; Zanesville, 
454; Columbus, 513; Indiana] )olis, 701; Chicago, 827. 

Parkersbiivff Division. Grafton, 280 ; Webster, 284 ; Flemington, 290 ; Bridge- 
port, 207 ; Clarksburg, 302 ; Wilsonburg, 306 ; Salem, 316 ; Long Run, 321 ; 
Smithton, 326; Central, 332 ; Pennsboro", 342 ; Ellenboro", .347; Cornwallis. 352; 
Laurel Fork Junction, 364 ; Walker's, 360 ; Kanawha, 374 ; Claysville, 377 ; 
Parkersbui^, 384. Cincinnati, 589 ; Louisville, 699 ; St. Louis, 929. 

Crossing the stream called Gw^ynne's Falls by the Carrollton Viaduct, 
the line traverses the old Winans estate (celebrated for its great peach- 
orchards), runs through the costly Deep-Cut, and follows the course of 
Robert's Run. To the 1., on the highway to Washington, is the oldest 
American telegraph, which was constructed in 1844 with a National ap- 
propriation of $ 40,000. The first message was sent by a lady, and con- 
sisted of the words, " What hath God wrought." Washington Junction 
is the point at which the Washington Branch (Route 66) diverges from 
the main line of the Bait, k Ohio R. R., and is seen sweeping away to the 
1. over the grand arches of the Washington Viaduct. The * Viaduct Hotel 
is owned by the railroad, and charges | 2. 50 a day for board (meals, 75c. 
each). The train now turns sharply to the N. W. uj) the rugged ravine 
through which the Patapsco flows ; passes the Avalon Iron-Works, and 
crosses the river near Ilchester Mills, the seat of the Catholic college of 
Mount St. Clement. Ellicott City (1,722 inhabitants), the capital of 



FREDERICK. Route 65. 407 

Howard County, is devoted to mauufactures, and is situated amid pic- 
turesque glen scenery. The water-poAver is furnished by the Patapsco, 
and is sometimes in excess of the demand (as in July, 1868, when the 
greater part of the place was destroyed and 50 lives were lost by a sudden 
flood). The Baltimore & Ohio R.-R. was completed from Baltimore to 
this point in August, 1830. Near Ellicott City are the Rock Hill College 
and the St. Cliarles College, schools of the Roman Catholic Church, with 
the aggregate number of 33 instructors and 3i7 students. The train 
crosses the old Frederick road on the ai'ches of the Oliver Viaduct, and 
runs between the cliflfs and the detached granite mass called the Tarpeian 
Rock. Running to the N. on the r. bank, the river is crossed and re- 
crossed by massive viaducts, and beyond the factories of Elysville and the 
lime-pits of Marriottsville, the line ascends Parr's Ridge, from whose 
summit (Mt. Airy) the Frederick Valley is overlooked, bonnded by the 
blue Catoctin Mts. Near Mt. Airy station the train crosses the old 
National Road, a highway which was founded by Thomas Jefferson, and 
extended from Baltimore to Frederick, Cumberland, Wheeling, Zanesville, 
and Columbus. The train now descends along Busli Creek, and crosses 
the Monocacy River on a long iron l)ridge. Near this point a National 
army under Gen. Lew. Wallace was defeated by superior Confederate forces, 
and driven back on Baltimore, after making a bold stand at the crossing 
of the Monocacy. 

A branch line runs N. W. from Monocacy to Fi'ederick in 3 M., connect- 
ing there with a line running N. E. into Pennsylvania (to Hanover, Get- 
tysburg, and York). Frederick {City Hotel ; U. S. Hotel) is a pleasant 
Mai-yland city with 8,256 inhalutants, 11 churches, 3 banks, and 2 news- 
papers. It is the capital of Frederick County, and is 2 M. from the 
Monocacy River. The houses are well built, and the streets are broad 
and cross each other at right angles. The city was several times occupied 
by the Southern armies, and an incident of one of these invasions inspired 
Whittier's fine lyric of " Barbara Frietchie." 

Beyond the Monocacy River the train crosses the broad and fertile lime- 
stone plains of the Monocacy Valley for 11 M., with the Catoctin Mts. 
rising on the r. It reaches the Potomac River at the Point of Rocks, 
wliere the river cuts through the mts., leaving a high cliff on either side. 
At this point the Confederate army crossed between Sept. 4 and 7, 
1863, and began the first invasion of Maryland. The Metropolitan Branch 
R. R. runs 43 M. S. E. from Point of Rocks to Washington, crossing the 
unfruitful Montgomery County. The Wheeling train now traverses a 
tunnel ^ M. long, and passes Berlin and Hagerstown Junction, whence 
the Washington County Division R. R. runs 24 M. N. to Hagerstown 
(see page 377). From Keedysville, on this branch, the traveller can visit 
the National cemetery and the battle-field of Antietam. 



408 Route 65. HARPER'S FERRY. 

The line now traverses the great pass through which the Potomac 
•River flov/s raindly over a rocky bed, diversified by many islets. On the 
1. is the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, on which the bituminous coal of Cum- 
berland is carried to tide- water at Georgetown. The track runs under 
the cliffs of Elk Mt., which was scaled'by Jackson's Confederates in Sept., 
1863, and then passes close under Maryland Heights. On the 1. and in 
advance are seen the Lo\idon Heights and the mouth of the broad, shal- 
low, and arrowy Shenandoah River. Crossing the Potomac on a high 
bridge 900 ft. long, the train stojjs at Harper's Ferry. This village is 
built around the base of the Bolivar Heiglits, on the angle at the contin- 
ence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, and has 1,212 inhabitants 
and 4 churches. Tlie scenery in this vicinity is in the highest degree pic- 
turesque. Bolivar Heights (over the village), Loudon Heights (across the 
Shenandoah), and Maryland Heights (on the Maryland shore), were occu- 
pied by forts and field-works during the Secession War. These battle- 
mounds still remain, and mark the scene of severe fighting The great 
National armory which was formerly in operation here has been replaced by 
a new one at Rock Island, 111. ; and the decadent village now enjoys but 
slight local distinction. 

" Tlie passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge is, perhaps, one 
of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high 
point of land. On your r. comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged 
along the foot of a mt. 100 M. to seek a vent; on your 1. approaches the 
Potomac, in quest of a passage also. In the moment of their junction 
they rush together against the mt., rend it asunder, and pass off to the 

sea But the distant finishing which nature has given to the 

picture is of a very different character. It is a true contrast to the fore- 
ground. It is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous ; 
for the mt. being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye tliroiigh the 
clefts a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the 
plain-'country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult warring 
around to pass through the breach and participate in the calm below. 
.... This scene is worth a journey across tlie Atlantic ; yet here, as in 
the neighborhood of the Natural Brijlge, are people who have passed 
their lives within a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these 
monuments of a war between rivers and mts., which must have shaken 
the earth itself to its centre." (Thomas Jefferson.) 

The U. S. Arsenal at Hari)er's Ferry was cai)tured by John Brown and 20 
abolitionists Oct. IG, 1850, and the engine-house was made their citadel. After a 
short siege, the insurgents were overi)owered by the Va. militia and U. S. marines 
(see page 145). The arsenal Avas fitted for making 10,000 muskets a year, and on 
Api-il 18, 1861, it was guarded by Lieut. Jones and 40 U. S. soldiers "(with 15,000 
muskets in the armory). When the Southern States began to rtse against the 
Union, the "Va. militia advanced to seize this armory ; but the vigilant pickets of 
the garrison reported their approach, and the great national buildings were speedily 



I 



THE BATTLE OF ANTIETAM. Route 65. 409 

destroyed by fire and gunpowder. Jones then evacuated the post, and within a 
month it was occupied by over 8,000 insurgents. Thencefortli throughout the 
Civil War Harper's Ferry was the scene of battles and cannonades, and was 
alternately occupied by the national and insurgent armies. 

In Sept., ISoo, while McClellan and Lee were fighting among the mountain- 
passes to the N., Harper's Ferry was held by 12,000 national troops, under Col. 
Miles. That officer abandoned the strong positions about the town, after slight 
attacks from Jackson's division, and allowed 2,000 of his cavalry to flee to the 
N. The Confederates acted with great energy, and soon opened a plunging tire 
from the lofty Maryland Heights upon the U. S. troops massed in the town. 
Altliough a Ihie of retreat was open, and MeClellan's relieving army was close at 
hand, Col. Miles speedily sun-endered the post, with 11.583 soldiers and 73 pieces 
of artillery. Miles's treason met with speedy punishment, for he was killed by a 
cannon-ball after the white flag liad been displayed. 

The Battle of South Mountain Avas fought about 5 M. from Harper's Feriy, at 
the pass in the South Mt. called Turner's Gap. The position was held by Gen. 
Hill with 5,000 Confederates, and was attacked (Sept. ll, 1802) by the centre and 
right wing of the Army of the Potomac. Lougstreet was hurried to the relief, 
and at 2 p. m. there were 30,000 rebel troops on the crests and in the pass. At 4 
o'clock the fighting was terrible, and the national forces stormed the hostile 
positions on the cliffs and rugged ridges with rare heroism. At sunset the Union 
commander, Gen. Reno, was killed at the head of his columns, and at 10 p. m. 
the contest ceased. During the night the enemy retired, having inflicted a loss 
on the National forces of 312 killed and 1,234 wounded. The action took place 
whjre the old National Road crosses the South Mt., in a pass 400 ft. deep. The 
Confederate loss was not reported, but they left 1,5J0 prisoners. 

The Battle of Antietam occurred Sept. l'i-17, 1863, near the village of 
Sharpsburg. After the Battle of South Mt. and the surrender of Harper's Feny, 
the Confederate army was conitentr.xted near Sharpsburg, to meet the slow but 
ponderous advance of the Army of the Potomac. Tiie front was covered by An- 
tietam Creek, whi(;h was commanded by formidable heights. In the first day's 
battle Hooker's corps carried the Williamsport bridge, and drove back Hood's 
Texans after a severe conflict. At dawn on the 17th, while the National b.atteries 
on the E. bank of the Antietam enfiladed the hostile lines, Hooker led 18,00J 
troops to assault the ConfederaLe positicms. All day long the National right and 
centre pressed against the Confederate positions, and the ebb and flow of sangui- 
nary contest surged about the old Bunker Church N. of Sharpsburg. Gens. Mans- 
field aud Rieliard.jou w^re mortally wounded ; Gens. Hartsuff, Sedgwick, Craw- 
ford, Dana, and Meagher were wounded ; and several brigades were nearly exter- 
minated (,Duryea's brijade emerged from the fight with but 20 men, bearing 4 
stands of colors). At nightfall the Nationals he](l the field and the positions of 
tlie Jonfederate left wi:ig and centre. On the National left a terrible engagement 
was fought at the linrnside Bridje. The troops were ordered to storm tliis posi- 
tion and carry the heights beyond, though the approaches were enfiladed by 
Confederate batteries and riflemen. Again and again Gen. Burnside was repulsed, 
but at 1 p. M. a forlorn hope of 2 regiments swept across the bridge, scattered the 
liostile brigades on the farther shore, and opened the way for the left wing to ad- 
vance to the Sliarpsburg heights. Darkness now settled on the scene, and tlie 
National lines held the field after a battle in which "nearly 200,000 men and 500 
pieces of artillery were for 14 hours engaged." Their loss had been 2,010 killed, 
and 10,450 wounded ; the enormous Confederate losses were never reported. The 
exhausted armies held their respective positions during the next day without 
fighting; an I during the night of the ISch the Confederates recrossed the Poto- 
mac and retreated hastily down the Valley of Virginia, having lost, during the 
fortnight's invasion of Maryland, 30,000 men. 13 cannon, and 39 battle-flags. 

The Antietam battle-field is now honored by a National Cemetery, in which are 
buried the thousands of brave soldiers who fell here. A stately and impressive 
monument has been erected in the cemetery to commemorate the victory. The 
field is reached either by a long carriage-ride from Frederick (traversing an 
attractive country) ; from Keedysville station, on the Hagerstown Branch ; or 
from Kearneysvil'le. on the maiii fine of the Bait. & Ohio R. R. (crossing the 
Potomac and passing through Sharpsburg). The new monument has been sur- 
mounted by the largest statue in the country (2U' ft. high), representing an 
American soldier. 

18 



410 Route Co. THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 

The Shenandoah Valley runs S. W. from Harper's Ferry, and is fa- 
mous for its rare fertility and picturesque beauty. In later years it has 
acquired a mournful interest as a battle-groiuid and land of camps during 
four years of civil war. The Winchester, Potomac k Strasburg R. R. 
runs from Harper's Ferry up the Valley of Virginia to Harrisonburg (100 
M. ), passing Charlestown, which is 8 M. from Harper's Ferry, and is 2^ 
M. N. W. of Washington's Masonic Cave; 2 M. N. E. of the ancient ruins 
of Trinity (Norborne) Church; and 5 M. from the Shannondale Springs. 
Winchester is the next important station (32 M. from Harper's Feiry), 
and is the metropolis of the Valley. It was Washington's head-quarters 
in 1756, and is the burial-place of Lord Fairfax and of Gen. Morgan, com- 
mander of the Virginia riflemen in the Revolution. Several sanguinary 
battles occurred in this vicinity during the Secession War. The famous 
Rock-Enon (Capper) Springs are 13 M. from Winchester, on the Great 
North Mt. (Worndey's Hotel). From .Strasburg a railroad runs E. to 
Washington in 89 M., passing the beautiful mt. handet of Front Royal, 
near Manassas Gap, and the scene of desperate fighting during the Seces- 
sion War. Harrisonburg is in the lower part of the Valley of Virginia, 
and is the capital of the rich agricultural county of Rockingham. 



The Bait. & Ohio train runs N. W. from Harper's Ferry, leaving the 
Potomac beyond the rock-tunnel, and ascending the valley of Elk Branch. 
Beyond Kearncysville it crosses the Opequan Creek, and enters the valley 
of the Tuscarora, which is followed to Martinsburg {McSherri/ House). 
This is the capital of Berkeley County, and is a i)ieasant town of 4,863 
inhabitants, with 8 churches, and large machine-shops of the railroad. It 
is on a high and fertile plateau W. of the Blue Ridge, and has favorable 
oi)portunities for manufacturing, by reason of the water-power of the 
Tuscarora Creek. It was occupied by the Confederate troops early in 
1861, and was the scene of severe fighting. Milroy's U. S. army was dis- 
astrously defeated in this vicinity ; and other national forces were repulsed 
and expelled from the place by Confederate armies from the Valley of 
Virginia. In June, 1861, the Southern troops destroyed, near this town, 
87 locomotives and 400 cars belonging to the Bait. & Ohio R. R. 

The Cumberland Valley R. R. runs N. E. from Martinsburg to Harrisbui-gh, 
Penn., in 94 M. (see Route 58, page 373). 

Beyond Martinsburg the train runs N. over the North Mt,, leaving 
the Valley of Virginia and traversing a dreary upland, beyond which it 
descends to the Potomac River, with fine views in front. On the opposite 
shore of the river are the ruins of Fort Frederick, a quadrangular stone 
work which was built by Virginia in 1755 - 56 (at an expense of $ 30,000), 
as one of the 6 frontier forts. The British troops captured at Yorktown 
in 1780 were located here, in camps guarded by Continental soldiers. At 



BERKELEY SPRINGS. Route 65. 411 

the station of Sir John's Run, stages are in waiting to carry passengers 
to the Berkeley Springs {* Berkeley/ S2>rings House), a famous old sum- 
mer resort of the Virginians. The springs are 2| M . S. of the railroad, 
and are 4 in number, flowing from the forest-covered sides of the Warm 
Springs Ridge. They flow 1,200 gallons a minute, and are chiefly used for 
hathing, the temperature being 7-1". The Gentlemen's Spring is provided 
•with a pavilion and lounging-room ; and the Ladies' Spring is similarly 
embellished. There are numerous private baths, shower and spout baths, 
and large swimming-batlis for ladies and gentlemen. The waters are held 
to be beneflcial in cases of neuralgia and general debility; and the high, 
cool mountain-air is also famed for its salubrity. There are hotel accom- 
modations for 700 guests. 

The Berkeley Springs was the first summer resort which was opened in the 
South. They were on the immense domain of Thomas, Lord Fairfax, who re- 
served to himself the source still known as "Lord Fairfax's Spring," and granted 
the others to the province of Virginia. In 1755 the ill-fated army of Gen. Brad- 
dock (see page 353) passed near this place, and Sir John's Rmi still commem- 
orates Sir John St. Clair, an officer of the vanguard. The province laid out the 
town of Bath in 1776. and Gen. Washington, Gen. Gates, Charles Carroll of Car- 
rollton, and many others of the colonial gentry, had cottages here, where they 
spent poi'tions of the summer in Ibrest-sports and bathing. Horse-racing, card- 
jilaying, and the old stately dances were in vogue ; and at a certain hour, which 
was announceil by the blowing of a horn, the gentlemen retired and allowed the 
ladies the privileges of the foliage-shaded bathing-pool. Hither came the Baron 
and Baroness de Riedesel in 1780, —he to recover his health , which was shat- 
tered in the Saratoga campaign. In 178l> James Ramsey earned enough money at 
the baths to build his steainboat, perhaps the first in the world, which was 
launched at the mouth of Sir John's Run (or at Shepherdstown, a few miles be- 
low), and successfully ascended the rapid Potomac. 

Beyond Sir John's Run the line enters the mts. of the great Alleghany! 
range, near the Cacapon Mts., with the prominent peak of Round Top 
plainly in view. In 4 M. the great Cacapon River is ci'ossed, and after 
following the curves of the picturesque upper Potomac and ascending 
massive galleries on the sides of the ridges, the train traverses the Doe 
Gully Tunnel, which is 1,200 ft. long and pierces a mt. 1,700 ft. high. 
Fine rugged scenery is passed on either side as the line is followed to the 
Paxo Paw Tunnel. Crossing the Little Cacapon Creek and the South 
Fork of the Potomac, the broad intervales opposite Old Town are traversed, 
and in the advance are seen the mts. which surround Cumberland. Be- 
yond the Green Spring Tunnel, the tall clifi"s called Kelley's Rocks are 
passed, and the picturesque rock-scenery about Patterson's Creek. The 
train now crosses the Potomac on a bridge 700 ft. long, and enters Mary- 
land in the mt.-county of Alleghany. When Maryland was debating 
whether to secede or not (in 1S61), this patriotic county sent its delegates 

1 This chain of mts. (with the similarly named river and adjacent towns and couiities) is 
called " Alk-Kanv ' in its New York portion, "Allegheny • m Pennsylvania, and Alle- 
ghany" in Mkrvland and the South. A uniform method of spellm? this name is desirable ; 
but t'li.' Editor has adhered to the various local forms of spelhng, beheving it his duty to 
report things as they are, rather than as they should be. 



412 Eo2ite65. CUMBERLAND. 

to the Convention with the instructions that if they voted for secession 
they sliould be hung on their return. 

Cumberland (* Queen City Hotel, at the station), the second city of 
Maryland, is finely situated in a basin of the mts., with Will's Mt. on the 
W., and the Nobleys on the S., beyond which is the lofty ridge of Dan's 
Mt. There are over 8,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches and 3 newspapers; 
and the public buildings of Cumberland County are located here. The 
great rolling-mills where the Bait. & Ohio company makes its steel 
rails form an important feature of the city; and the country-trade is ex- 
tensive and lucrative. The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal terminates at this 
point, and is mainly used in the transportation of coal from the great 
mines in the vicinity. During the year 1873, 779,412 tons of semi-bitii- 
minous coal were sent to Georgetown, D. C, over the canal, and 1,794,200 
tons were sent East by the railroad, making a total of 2,573,618 tons 
shipped from Cumberland during the year. The scenery in this vicinity 
attracts summer visitors, who generally stop at the great Queen City Hotel 
(an appanage of the railroad company). 1 M. W. is the deep gorge called 
" The Narroii's," where Will's Creek has cloven its way through the 
escarped and palisaded sandstone strata of Will's Mt. Tlirough this 
water-gap runs the old National Road and the track of the Pittsburgh, 
Washington k Baltimore R. R. (see page 3C4). 

The Cumberland & Pennsylvania R. li. runs from Cumberland through the great 
coal-region to the W. Frostburg is a i>lace of about 5,000 inliabitunts, 1 ,400 ft. 
above Cumberland, and is ajiproiiched by tracks in the form of a succession of 
Ys. This lofty and prosperous town is undermined in every direction by ex- 
hausted coal-shafts, and the railroad passes under it iu a dark'tunnel. Running 
thence S. W. , tlie line follows the narrow carboniferous valley of George's Creek, 
by several villages of miners, and soon reaches Piedmont, 34 M. from Cumber- 
land (time of transit, 3 lirs.). 

The main line runs S. W. from Cumberland up the narrow valley of 
the Potomac, between the Nobley Mts. (on the 1.) and Will's and Dan's 
Mts. (on the r.). The ridges on either side furnish varied views, and 
beyond the rich glen of Black Oak Bottom the train crosses the Potomac 
on a costly bridge of stone and iron. Piedmont is the seat of large rail- 
road repair-shops, and is at the confluence of the Potomac (North Branch) 
and George's Creek, At this point begins the ascent of the Alleghany 
Mts., and for 17 M. the train climbs an average gradient of 117 ft. to the 
M., propelled by 2 engines. On the r., beyond the deep ravine of Savage 
River, are the Savage Mts ; and near Crabtree Creek the line sweeps in 
broad curves around the main Alleghany ridge. The scenery on this 
section is majestic and imposing, and the lofty peaks are shown in new 
combinations as the train clambers along its lofty galleries and bends oa 
long curving grades. Altamont is on the summit, and is 2,720 ft. above 
the sea. The line now enters The Glades, a series of rich alluvial meadows 
lying along the Youghiogheny River and on the great Alleghany plateau. 



CHEAT RIVER VALLEY. Route 65. 413 

3 M. from Altamont is the station at the * Deer Park Hotel ($3.50 a 
day; .*ip20 a week; $75 a month), a first-class summer resort imder the 
management of the raih'oad company. It is 2,800 ft. above the sea, and 
is visited for the sake of the pm-e cool air, and for the romantic and 
sublime scenery along the Glades and on the mts. The hotel has 150 
rooms, furnished with gas and water, and employs an orchestra in sum- 
mei'. The thermometer in summer ranges from 58' to 76' Fahrenheit, and 
the air is crisp and sparkling. 6 M. beyond Deer Park the train passes 
the village of Oakland, with another large wayside summer-house, called 
the * Glades Hotel (a favorite resort for Baltimoreans). The trouting in 
the highland streams affords much sport, and game is still found in the 
forests. A highway runs N. from Oakland, down the pleasant valley of 
the Maryland Glades, and by the Youghiogheny River, to the remote 
hamlet of Friendsville. 6 M. beyond Oakland the train enters W. 
Virginia, and traverses a region which is tilled with striking scenery. 
Embankments, tunjiels, and deep gorges succeed each other, and at 11 M. 
beyond Cranberry Summit the line reaches Rowleshurg. 

The famous * Cheat River Valley is now crossed, with beautiful views 
on either side. • Here the chocolate-colored Cheat River, uniting with the 
Tray Run, descends through a valley between bold and imposing mts., 
and is lined with dark forests. The railroad crosses on a high grade, 
bridging the river and rushing along the slopes on narrow yet massively 
built galleries. The attention and admiration of the traveller is divided 
between the charms of the natural scenery and the daring skill of the 
engineering works over which the train passes. 

"This scenery has a character of grandeur of its own, and, in the wonderful 
varieties of forest and lawn, of river and nit., of nature in her savage wildness 
and nature in lier loveliest forms, presents a series of pictures Avhich no well- 
educated American should leave uuvisited. We cross the Atlantic in quest of 
attractive scenes, and, lo ! we leave at home, alongside of the great central iron 
pathway, views that excel anything that can be seen among tlie mts. of Scotland 
or in the passes of the Appenines." (George Bancroft.) 

Beyond Cassidy's Ridge the train passes through the great Kingwood 
Tunnel, which is i,100 ft. long and cost $1,000,000. It took 3,000 men 
2 years and 8 montlis to n)ake this tunnel. A long descent now follows, 
the Murray Tunnel (250 ft.; through sandstone) is passed, and beyond 
the hamlet of Newburg (on the intervales of Otter Creek) the train 
follows the narrow valley to Grafton (large hotel at the station). This 
village has about 2,000 inhabitants, and is picturesquely situated on the 
Tygart's Valley River. About 20 M. up Tygart's Valley (12 M. from 
Webster) is Philippi, which was occupied by the Confederate forces 
sent for the subjugation of W. Virginia in 1861. June 3, 1861, these 
troops (numbering 1,500 men) were attacked by the 1st Va. (Union) and 
2 Western regiments, and were totally routed. 



414 Route G5. PARKERSBURG. 

The Parkershxirg Division runs W. from Grafton to Parkersburg in 104 
M., traversing the picturesque mts. of W. Virginia and passing several 
small forest-hamlets. Among these rugged highlands the institution of 
slavery obtained but a slender foothold, and in 1860 the 4 counties be- 
tween Grafton and Parkersburg had 35,256 freemen, and only 830 slaves. 
When the Virginians voted (in 1861) as to whether their State should 
stand by the Union or secede, the moimtain-counties were loyal bj^ large 
majorities; aiid when the State took up arms against the Republic, this 
patriotic section was formed into the new State of West Virginia (with 
the motto, " Montani semjjer liberi "). 

The first station of any note is Clarkshirg, the capital of Harrison 
County, a village of nearly 2,000 inhabitants, situated on fi hill-enviroiied 
plain near the W. Fork of the Monongaliela River. Petroleum station is 
in the oil-district of W. Virginia, and a branch track leads N. from Laurel 
Fork Jimction to Volcano, the chief place in tliat district. In this vi-, 
cinity is obtained a heavy dark-green oil wliich is extensively used in] 
lubricating fixed machinery, locomotives, and cars. This valuable petro- 
leum is pumped up from the natural rock-reservoirs far below in the! 
earth, and is kept in large tanks (seen near the line). The deep ravines] 
and rugged hills of this region are occupied by thousands of tall derricks, 
most of which have long been deserted. At Claysville the train reaches 
the Little Kanawha River, whose course is followed to the N. W. to 
Parkersburg {Swann House), the capital of Wood Coimty, a city of 
5,546 inhabitants, engaged in the petroleum trade. The train here crosses 
the Ohio River on a noble bridge which was erected in 1869-71, at a cost 
of over !$ 1,000,000. It is IJ M. long, with 6 spans over the river and 43 
approaching spans. Tlie line connects at Belpre with the Marietta & 
Cincinnati R. R. for the West. 



The Wlieeling train runs N. W. from Grafton down the TygarVs Valley, 
ivith a variety of picturesque scenery. Fairmont is a pretty village, with 
about 600 inhabitants and 2 churches, situated near the confluence of the 
Monongaliela River and Tj^gart's Valley River. A fine suspension-bridge 
crosses the river to the hamlet of Palatine. Fairmont is the capital of 
the forest-county of Marion, and is at the head of steamboat navigation 
on the Monongahela. The line now crosses the hill-country of Wetzel 
County, and beyond Littleton it enters the Pan-Handle of W. Virginia. 
Moundsville is finely situated on the fertile intervales of the Ohio River 
at the mouth of Grave Creek, and is near the village of Elizabethtoivn, 
the capital of Marshall County. Between the villages is the Mammoth 
Mound, a relic of the prehistoric inhabitants of Amei'ica. It is 80 ft. 
high and 200 ft. broad, and towers over the fertile intervales. The train 
now runs over level lowlands for several miles, and alter an interlude of 



WHEELING. Route GG. 415 

rocky narrows, advances by tlie Ohio River to Benivood (where connec- 
tions are made with the Central Ohio Division of the B. & 0. R. R.) and 
Wlit-eling. 

Wheeling {McClure House) is the capital of W. Virginia, and is situ- 
ated on the Ohio River at the influx of Wheeling Creek. It has 19,280 in- 
liabitants, with 21 clmrches, 4 banks, and 5 newspapers, and is the seat 
of the University of W. Virginia, a State institution witli 10 professors 
and 154 students. The manufacturing interests are profitable and exten- 
sive, and are served by an easily available water-power and immense sup- 
plies of coal in the adjacent hills. The National Road crosses the Ohio 
here (over Zane's Island) by a graceful wire suspension-bridge, whose span 
is 1,010 ft. long, with towers 153 ft. above the river ; and the railroad 
bridge (below the city) is one of the finest in the country. With the ap- 
proaches, it is If M. long, including a viaduct of 43 spans in the city of 
Bellaire. Wheeling is finely situated on a narrow alluvial plain which is 
overlooked hy rugged hills, and has a large commerce on the Ohio River. 

The 40 mountain counties of Virginia had long been at odds with the rest of the 
State by reason of unequal taxation and otlier inijust discriniiuations. When 
Virginia seceded from the Union (in 1S61) t'lese counties established themselves 
into the State of W. Virginia, and testified the patriotism of the new member of 
the Republic by giving to its armies 26,540 men out of 33,774 enrolled male citizens. 

The Hempfield R. R. runs N. E. to Washington, Pa., in 32 M. (see page 363) ; 
the River Division of the Cleveland & Pittsburgh R. R. runs (from Bridgeport) to 
Pittsburgh in nS M.. and to Cleveland in 13S M. ; and the Central Ohio & Lake 
Erie Divisions of the Bait, k, Ohio R. R. run (from Bellaire) to Columbus in 137 
M., and to Sandusky in 220 M. 

66. Baltimore to Washington. 

Bv the Baltimore & Ohio R. R. (Washington Branch) in 1 - 2 hrs. 

Stations. — Baltimore (Camden station); Carroll Switch, 2 M. ; Camden 
Junction, 4; Washington Junction, 9; Elk Ridge, 10; Hanover, 12.^; Dor ey's, 
15; Jessup's, 17; Annapolis Junction, 19V; Savage, 21; Laurel, 23; White Oak, 
25 ; Beltsville, 28 ; Paint Branch, 31J ; Bladensburg, 34 ; Metropolitan Junction, 
39; Washington, 40. 

The train moves out from the Camden station, and runs S. W. through the en- 
virons oi Baltimore. Baltimore to Washington Junction, see page 406. 

Tlie deep valley of the Patapsco River is now crossed on the famous 
* Washington Viaduct, a splendid piece of masonry whose arches rest 
on 7 high piers. The views on either side are broad and pleasant, espe- 
cially on the 1., where the valley widens. The scenery in this vicinity, 
and the exigencies of railroad travel, have given reason for the erection of 
the fine hotel on the E. side of the river. The train now traverses the 
hilly region on the borders of Howard County, with the peculiar clayey 
soil of the country exhibited in the deep cuts and gullied knolls. Elk 
Ridge Landing i% an iron manufacturing village on the Patapsco; and 
Hanover (locally famous for its camp-meetings) is near the iron-mines 
which supply the Avalon Furnaces. 



416 Route 66. ANNAPOLIS. 

At Annapolis Junction (2 hotels) the Annapolis & Elk Ridge R. R. 
diverges to the S. E. and runs for 21 M. across Anne Arundel County, 
intersecting the Bait, k Potomac R. R. at Odenton. Trains run from 
Baltimore to Annapolis in 1^-2 hrs. 

Annapolis {Maryland House), the capital of the State of Maryland, is 
a quaint old city of 5,744 inhabitants, pleasantly situated on the S. bank 
of the Severn River, 2 M. from Chesapeake Bay. It derives considerable 
local importance from its relations to the State, while it has a national 
interest from the fact that it is the site of the training-school for the 
officers of the republican fleets. The State House is situated on an ele- 
vation in the centre of the city, enclosed by a circular granite wall, and is 
entered from Frances St. It is built mainly of brick, and is surmounted 
by a dome nearly 200 ft. high. The hall beyond the main entrance is 
under the dome, whose interior work is seen thence. On the r. is the 
Senate Chamber, memorable in American history as the place where Con- 
gress ratified the Treaty of 1783 (acknowledging the national independence), 
and also where Washington resigned his conmiand of the army. Here 
are full-length portraits of Charles Carroll (by Sully), Chase, Paca, and 
Stone, the Maryland signers of the Declaration of Independence ; and of 
Howard, "the hero of the Cowpens" (by Sully) ; also a fine painting of 
Washington resigning his commission to Congress. In the adjacent Com- 
mittee Room is a singular painting by C. W. Peale, representing Lord 
Chatham in the costume of a Roman senator. The Chamber of the House 
of Delegates is opposite the Senate Chamber, and has galleries for visitors. 
The State Library is at the end of the hall under the dome, and has over 
20,000 volumes. On the second floor is the Executive Department and 
the Court of Appeals (wherein hangs a large pictui-e of Washington and 
Lafayette reviewing the army, by Peale). Another stairway leads to the 
platform of the dome (130 ft. high), whence a broad view is gained, in- 
cluding the city, the pleasant hills of Anne Arundel, the Severn, and the 
broad Chesapeake, and the remote line of the Eastern Shore. The State 
House was built in 1772, and the dome (of wood) was added after the 
Revolution. The Treasury is a venerable building in the circle near the 
State House, and is famo\is for having been the legislative hall of the old 
Provincial Assembly. The Record Office is N. E. of the Treasury, and 
contains the archives of Maryland, On the N. E. of the hill is an ancient 
cannon which was brought to the province by Lord Baltimore about 1633. 
St. John's College occupies a range of buildings between Prince George 
St. and the Severn River, and has 12 instructors and 181 students. 

In 1744 Gov. Bladen began the erection of a costly gubematorial mansion on 
the site of St. John's College. European architects provided with almost nn- 
liniited resources had nearly completed the house; when Bladen quarrelled with 
the Assembly, which thereupon cut off its appropriations. In 1784 the Assembly 
founded St. John's College, and located it in the ruined building (which wai 



ANNAPOLIS. Route 66. 417 

\}}^7^^ ^3 "t^^ Governor's Folly "). It also received the endowments of "Kin^ 
Wilham s School, which was founded at Annapolis in 1696. But the colle<^e was 
dc])endent, and languished whenever the State subsidies were withheld ° The 
CoUese Green Avas the camp-ground of the French forces in the Revolution the 
Maryland militia in the War of 1812, and the national troops in the Civil War' E 
of the college is an ancient poplar-tree, which probably antedates the city and is 
much venerated by the Annapolitans. ' 

St. Anne's Church (Episcopal) is on the Clmrch Circle (6-700 ft. W. 
of the State House), and is a stately edifice, with colonnades of stone sep- 
arating the nave and aisles, and an altar of carved stone. The bell (now 
destroyed) of tliis church was given by Queen Anne, and tlie 7 vessels of 
the communion service (still in use) were presented by, and bear the 
monogram and arms of. King William III. The church is the third St. 
Anne's which has occupied this site, the first having been built in 1696. 
St, Mary's Church (Catholic) is on the Duke of Gloucester St., on land 
given by Charles Carroll of Carrollton, and adjoins St. Mary's College 
and Convent. Candidates for the missionary clergy of the Redemptionist 
Order study 6 years at St. James College (Baltimore), 2-4 years at St. 
Mary's (Annapolis), and 5 years at St. Clement's College (Ilchester, Md. ), 
returning to Annapolis for a final practical course. The Government 
House is a costly new mansion W. of the State House, used for the resi- 
dence of the Governor. There are many quaint old houses in the city 
which date from 1740-60 and were built of imported brick. 

The * U. S. Naval Academy is the national school for the education 
of midshipmen and their preparation for the higher commands in the 
navy. The course of study covers 4 years, and is varied by cruising in 
the school-ships. This school was founded in 1845, and was transferred 
to Newport, R. I., during the Civil War (May, 1861 -Sept., 1865). The 
buildings were occupied by the army during that period, and at the close 
of the rebellion the naval cadets returned. The grounds cover 114 acres, 
and are fronted by a sea-wall along the Severn River. The new Midship- 
men's Quarters accommodate 200 cadets, and are crowned by a dome which 
commands a broad marine view. The Officers' Quarters, Gunnery Build- 
ing, Observatory, Hospital, and Mess Hall are commodious structures. 
The Department of Steam Enginery is at the foot of the main avenue, and 
contains bright models and large engines of steam-frigates. In front is a 
fountain surmounted hy a statue of Neptune, and a portal formed of can- 
non captured on the Confiance (War of 1812). The Chapel contains sev- 
eral memorial tablets, and on the grounds are 3 monuments, — to midshij)- 
men killed at Vera Cruz in 1847, — to Lieut. Herndon, lost on the Central 
America, —and to tlie soldiers of the fleet who fell in the Tripolitan War 
(in 1804). The latter monument was erected at Washington in 1808, was 
mutilated by the British in 1814, and was removed to Annapolis in 1860. 
The old Government House of Maryland, erected before the Revolution, 
was bought by the U. S. in 1869, and is now used for the library (15,000 

18* AA 



418 Route 66. ANNAPOLIS. 

volumes) and reading-room. In this building are large and valuable col- 
lections of birds, shells, minerals, coins, etc., with trophies, flags, and 
other curiosities. There are many busts of eminent men, and casts of 
celebrated antique statuary ; also several rude but spirited paintings of 
battles at sea, and portraits of the great naval chiefs, Stewart, Farragut, 
Paul Jones, M. C. Perry (Japan expedition), 0. H. Perry (Battle of Lake 
Erie), Decatur, Hopkins, Rodgers, Preble, McDonough, Biddle, and David 
Porter. The Academy has a fine band and a marine guard, ball and boat 
clubs, and a gymnasium on the walls of old Fort Severn. A dress-parade 
of the battalion occurs every evening (unless stormy), and many visitors 
attend the imposing ceremonial. The dress-balls given here during the 
winter (especially on Feb. 22) attract hundreds of the patrician damsel^ 
of Baltimore and Washington. Tlie Academy is situated in finely adorned 
grounds, adorned with trees and shrubbery and ancient trophy-cannon. 
The remains of old Fort Severn are near the river, and there are usually 
two or three vessels of the fleet moored off" Severn Park. 

On St. Cecilia's Day, 1633, the Catholic pilgrims set sail from England, "having 
placed our ship under the i)rotection of God, the Blessed Virgin Mother, St. Igna- 
tius, and all tlie guardian angels of Maryland." In due time they reached land at 
St. Mary's, near the Potomac River, and founded tliere the capital of tlie pro- 
spective province. In 1648 Episcopal Virginia began to persecute her Puritan 
citizens, and in 1649 the afflicted church moved to Providence (the present site 
of Annapolis). The Catholic Governor Stone soon advanced by sea from St* 
Mary's against the new colony, but was defeated and captured after a fierce fight, 
in which 50 of his men were killed. The Puritan battle-cry was, " In the name of 
God, fall on. God Is our strength "; and the Marylanders shouted, " Hey for St. 
Mary's." In 1694 the Puritan village became the provincial capital ; and in 1695 
it was named Annapolis, in honor of Queen Ainie. In 1745 the Maryland Gazette 
was established ; in 1752 a theatre was opened (the first in America) ; in 1774 the 
citizens burned the British brig Peggij, with her cargo of tea ; in 1776 tlie royal 
governor, Eden, was forced to fly. and the "glorious old Maryland Line" began 
to gather here. About 1795 the city began to decline in relative importance. 

At the outbreak of the Secession War the city was occupied by rebels, who 
were arranging for an attack on the Naval Academy and the frigate Constitution. 
April 21 the 8th Mass. regiment arrived here (by water), and rescued the im- 
perilled national property; occupied the city; ignored the petty and impertinent 
sectionalisni of the Maryland governor; and marched to Annapolis Junction, 
rebuilding the demolished railroad, and attended by the 7th New York Regi- 
ment. Tliereafter, until the redemption of Baltimore, the troops advancing to 
the defence of the national capital passed through Auuapolis. 



'ReYowdi Anncqjolis Junction the train cro.sses in -succession the Little 
Patuxent and Big Patuxent Rivers, and approaches Laurel (Laurel Hotel), 
a thrifty and growing village of about 1,200 inhabitants, situated \ M. N. 
of the line. It has busy iron-works and cotton-mills, and is situated in a 
district which abounds in peaches. The railroad was cut at this point by 
a daring band of Southern cavalry during the summer of 1864, Muirkirk 
has iron-works which draw their supplies from the rich ore-beds in the 
vicinity: and the stately granite building of the Agricultural College of 
Maryland is seen from Paint Branch (College) station, crowning a line of 
heights on the r. 



PORT TOBACCO. Route 67. 419 

"A series of grassy hills, with sandy creeks at their passes; then 
Bladensbiirg, an angular stretch of old, gable-chimneyed, bent-roofed 
houses, ^ M. from the railroad ; then a line of red -clay breastworks, 
worming up to the hill-tops, where stand dismantled forts ; then an 
octagonal building with a cupola on it, — the home and foundry of 
Clark Mills, sculptor; then the uneasy outlying landscapes of a city, — 
culverts planted nowhere, streets graded to no place, brick-kilns and pits, 
a cemetery, frame shanties on goose pastures disputed by cows made 
sullen by over-milking; boys, babies, friendless dogs, and negro women 
* toting ' great bundles on their heads ; no more fence, the smell of 
apparent garbage and ash-heaps ; signs of ground-rents and dirt-throwing 
invitations ; and all this time you are descending into basin- land and 
doAvn the valley of a bare creek; at last a dome, such majesty and white- 
ness as you never saw elsewhere, appears sailing past the clouds, — the 
Capitol!" (George Alfred Townsend.) 

Washington, see page 420. 

67. Baltimore to Washington. 

By the Bait. & Potomac R. R. in 1^-2 hrs. 

Stations. — Baltimore ; N. Central Jnnction, 2 M.; Lafayette, 3 ; Winans, 9; 
Stony Run, 11 ; Severn, 15; Odenton, 18; Patuxent, 21; Bowie, 26 (branch to 
Marlboro', 40; Pope's Creek, 75); Seabrook, 30; Wilson's, 34; Benning's, 38 ; 
Navy Yard, 41 ; Washington, 43 (Richmond, 156). 

The train leaves the Calvert Station, in Baltimore, and passes through 
the great tunnels beneath the city, traversing the rural environs, and 
passing the divergence of the N. Central R. R. The train now diverges 
to the S., and crosses the broad Patapsco River. At Odenton it intersects 
the Annapolis & Elk Ridge R. R., on which trains run 15 M. S. E. to 
Annapolis, the capital of Maryland (see page 416). The line next trav- 
erses the fertile hills of Anne Arundel County, whose chief products are 
corn and tobacco. The county was named for Lady Anne Arundel, who 
married Lord Baltimore, and in 1860 had 16,568 free citizens and 7,332 
slaves. Beyond the Patuxent the line enters Prince George County, 
which, in 1850, produced more tobacco than any other county in the 
Union (8,380,851 pounds), and is still famous for that staple. From 
Bowie the Pope-s Creek Branch diverges to the S., and runs for 49 M. 
through the rural districts of Prince George and Charles Counties. La 
Plata station is near Port Tobacco, the capital of Charles County, and 
a garrisoned post during the Secession War. The terminus of the branch 
line is at Popes Creek, fronting the wide waters of the lower Potomac. 

Beyond Bowie the Washington train passes on to the shores of the 
Eastern Branch of the Potomac, which is pressed on a long trestle-bridge. 
Pleasant views are afforded of tlie broad river and its hilly banks. The 
Washington Tunnel is a costly and massively built structure of masonry, 



420 Routes OS, 69. WASHINGTON. 

1,500 ft. long; and as the train emerges from its depths, the white dome 
of the Capitol is seen on the r. The terminal station is on 6th St., near 
Pennsylvania Ave. 

68. New York to Washington. 

The new route bj' the Limited Express trains affords the most speedy 
and luxurious mode of passing from the metropolis to the national capi- 
tal. The train is composed entirely of Pullman cars, and runs through 
without change in 6 hrs. and 40 minutes. The fares are, New York to 
Philadelphia, .$4.25; to Baltimore, $8.50 ; to Washington $10 (Pullman- 
car fares included). 

The train leaves New York at 9.30 A. M. (3| hrs. after the arrival of the 
night express from Boston), and arrives at Washington at 4.03 P. M. (cit*y 
time). The route between New York and Philadelphia is described on 
pages 254-262; between Philadelphia and Baltimore, on pages 386-394; 
between Baltimore and Washington, on pages 419, 420. The Limited 
Express stops en route at Newark, Elizabeth, New Brunswick, Trenton, 
Germantown Junction, W. Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore. 

69. Washington. 

Hotels. — *The Arlington, a large and imposing hnilding near the Treasury, 

accommodating 325 guests and charging $5 a day; * "Willard's, corner of Penn. 
Ave. and 14th St., accommodating 400 guests (?j4.50 a day); the ♦Metropoli- 
tan, Peim. Aa'C., near 6th St., 300 guests (.:!4 a day); the *Ebbitt, corner of P 
and 14th Sts., 300 guests, a favorite resort for officers of the army and navy ; the 
* National, corner of Penn. Ave. and 6th St. , a famous old hotel, acconnnodating 
400 guests ($4 a day), Wormley's, on 15th St. ; the Imperial, on E St., near Penn. 
Ave. and 14tli St. ; the Wasliington. corner of Penn. Ave. and 3d St. ; the Con- 
tinental, Penn. Ave., near 3d St. ; tlie St. Marc, Penn. Ave. and 7tli St. (Euro- 
pean plan); tlie Globe, corner of F and 12th Sts. : the Milliken, E and lOlh 
Sts. ; the St. James (Eui-opean), near the Bait. & Potomac station ; the Trcmont 
(» 2.50 a day), near the Bait. & Ohio station. The Union Hotel is eligibly situated 
in Georgetown (corner of Bridge and Washington Sts.). Boarding-houses are found 
in all parts of the city, and with widely varying ])rices. 

Kestauraiits. — * Welckcr's, on 15th St. near H, is famous for its costly 
dinners and rich wines ; * Wormley's (loth and H Sts. ) is a quiet and aristocratic 
resort ; the * St. George (F St. , near 9th) is much fre(iuented by ladies, and tickets 
are sold at a large discount ; Harvey (corner of Penn. Ave. and 11th St. ) lias oys- 
ters in every sliajie ; Russell & Leonard's (0th St. & Penn. Ave.) is elegant and 
rich ; the National (Penn. Ave. and 6th St.) is a good lunch-saloon. Freund's is 
in the Capitol, and is much frequented by Congressmen ; and there is a large 
restaurant in tlie Treasury Department. ' The hotels on tlie European plan 
are provided with dining-rooms wliere meals are served d la carte ; and table- 
board may be secured at the better class of boarding-houses for $30-35 a 
month. 

lieadiiig- Rooms are found in the Larger hotels. The * Library of Congress 
is open from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m., and visitors can there examine the largest collec- 
tion of books in America. The library and reading-rooms of the Young Men's 
Christian Association are open to all visitors from 9 a. m. until 10 p m. Tlie offices 
of the Washington correspondents of the chief American newspapers are on News- 
paper Row and near the corner of 14th and F Sts. Though not open as public 



RJi. STATIONS. "2. National . 

67. Bait. & Potomac. . . .E. 4"- ffj^''.- • • 

68. Bait. & Ohio E.F. 4, 7+ ^^l^:\l . 

76. Tremon;. 



HOTELS. 

09. A rli ronton 

70. Willard's 

. Mfltvfolili 



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WASHINGTON CITY. 



I. CaptWl F. 4. S 

2 While House C. 4. y. 

■5. Trfjjsuiy D^fiartmeni. . . D. 3, 4. 

4. War ,jii/l Navy Di'p'ta (new 
Statf Dcp't) C. 3, 4- 

5. P<jU>it Olfier D. 3, 4. 

r,. Post " D.IC. 4. 

7 State Department 1)2. 



Xtitional Obscrfotoiy Ix ). 

\,ijiitaut (i.iLS Offin-s <iii,i 
Oi;fiiiiiin- .Viisdim C 4. 

10. Smit/aonian histitittn. . . . L). 3. 

1 1. Dc/>'t !•/ Agriculture D. 5. 

12. Wrtsfiiiifiton MoHiimettl . . .C. 5. 

1 3. U. S. Arsenal Iv. 7 

1 4. .yavy Yard G. 6. 




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WASHINGTON. Route 69. 421 

reading-rooms, the files of papers in these offices are generally accessible to visi- 
tors from their respective sections. 

Amusements. — The National Theatre (E St., near 14th) produces dramas 
and comedies, with a regular stoclv company and occasional " star " engagements. 
Operas are sometimes presented here during the winter months. Ford's Opera 
House (9th St., near Penn. Ave.) has a small auditorium. Lectures and Concerts 
are given m Lincoln Hall, corner of 9th and D Sts. ; Masonic Hall, corner of 9th 
and F Sts. ; Odd Fellows' Hall, 7th St., between D and E Sts. ; and Willard's 
Hall, F St., near 14th St. Billiards are found in several saloons throughout the 
city, the principal resort being at the National Hotel. German sports aiid viands 
are found at the Schuetzen Park, on 7th St., beyond the Howard University. 
Boating is a favorite amusement of the civil-service men, who have several well- 
drilled rowing-clubs. Their races are conducted on the broad reaches of the 
Potomac, and attract many spectators. Base-ball is played on the grounds in the 
N. W. part of the city. 

The Season. — The best times to visit Washington with design to see the 
natural beauties of the city and its environs are in May, early June, and Octo- 
ber, when the air is bland and genial, and the rich foliage of the parks and the 
llowers of the national gardens are in bloom. The fashionable season is during 
the winter, when much of the brilliant society and talent of the Republic is con- 
centrated here. The sessions of Congress begin on the first Monday in Decem- 
ber, and continue until March 4 (in the odd-numbered years), or until early 
summer (in the even-numbered years). During this period tlie galleries of the 
Senate and House of Representatives are open to visitors (except during occa- 
sional short exe<-utive sessions of the former body) ; and the leading politicians 
of the nation may there be seen. The debates in the House are oftentimes spicy 
and exciting, but are nearly unintelligible on account of the noise ; and most 
visitors will prefer the stately decorum and quietude of the Senate. The two 
houses ojien their sessions at noon, and the first hour is devoted to the uninter- 
esting routine of reading the journal and reporting bills. The sessions usually 
close late in tlie afternoon, though during times of exigency and the discussion of 
important measures the Senate sometimes continues in conclave until far into the 
night. When the House is in session a flag is displayed over the S. wing of the 
Capitul ; and the flag over the N. wing indicates that the Senate is in session. 
When the debates are prolonged into the evening, the great lantern over the dome 
is illuminated, forming a brilliant mass of light which is visible for many miles. 

The fashionable season lasts from New Year's until Lent, and is filled with a 
round of receptions, balls, and parties. The days of the receptions are announced 
in the newspapers, and the Presidential levees are open to all who may come. 
Full evening dress should be worn, although it is not essential to admission. 

Ambassadors. — The office of the legation of Austria is at 172S H St., N. W. ; 
Belgium, 1714 Penn. Ave. ; Brazil, 822 Conn. Ave., N. W. ; Cliili, Wormley's 
Hotel; Denmark, 2015 G St. ; Ecuador, 1741 G St., N. W. ; the French Repub- 
lic, 1721 H St., N. W. ; the German E;npire, 734 15th St.. N. W. ; Great Britain, 
in the costly new buiMing of the British Legation, on Conn. Ave. ; Hayti, Ar- 
lington House ; Italy, 2017 G St., N. W. ; Jai)an, 926 Scott Place ; Mexico, 1724 
a St. ; Holland, GlT 13th St. ; Peru, 1709 H St., N. W. ; Portugal, 1725 H St.. 
N. W. : Russia, 1801 FSt.. N. W. ; Spain, 1301 K St., N. W. ; Sweden and Nor- 
way, 2015 G St.. N. W. ; Turkey, 1404 H St., N. W. 

Military Music by the Marine Band daily at guard-mounting at the Marine 
Barracks. Also (during the summer) on Wednesday afternoons in the East Park, 
and on Saturday afternoons in the grounds of the Executive Mansion. 

Carriages. — Caution and firmness are necessary in dealing with most of the 
hackmen of Washington. The legal tariff allows them : for 1 -2 passengers (one- 
horse coach), 75c. per hour or per course, or if less tiian 1 M., |^ the above rates ; 
for 1-2 persons (two-horse carriage) per hour, $1.50; per course of overt M., 
$ 1 ; for each additional passenger, 50c. In case of disagreement, drive to a 
police-station. Carriages for excursions beyond the city had best be engaged at 
the hotel-offices or the livery-stables. The general price for a barouche and driver, 
to carry 1-4 persons to the Soldiers' Home or to Arlington, is $5. Among the 
longer carriage routes (for which special contracts must be made) are those to the 
Great Falls of the Potomac, and along the fortified heights from the Aqueduct 
Britlge to Alexandria. The battle-district as far as Manassas is often traversed 
by parties of gentlemen in open carriages. 



422 Route 69. WASHINGTON. 

Collections and Public Buildings. 

Agriculture, Department of (page 438), open from 9 a. m. to 3 P. M. daUy,! Mu- 
seums of Agriculture and Entomology and Herbarium. 

* Arlington House and National Cemetery (page 44S), open daily to all visitors. 
Jrmy Medical Museum (page 437), 10th St., between E and F ; daily from 9 a. m. 

to 3 p. M. 

Botanical Gardens (page 431), entrances on 3d St. and opposite the West Capitol 
Park ; daily from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. 

Capitol (page 426), on Capitol Hill ; open daily until dark, and sometimes till 
late at night. 

Congressional Cemetery (page 425), open daily till dusk. 

Columbia Hospital, corner of L and 25th Sts.; Tues. and Fri., from 10 A. M. to 
4 p. M. 

Columbia Institution for the Deaf and Dumb (page 445), reached by Columbia 
Railway ; open daily. 

Committee-Booms in the Capitol. — Entered by permission of the sergeants-at- 
arms. 

* Congress (page 421), open during session from 12 m. to 3 p. m., or later. 
Convent of the Visitation (page 447), Fayette St., Georgetown ; open to visitors 

Wed. and Sat. afternoons. 

*Corcoru7i Gallery of Art (page 440), corner of Penn. Ave. and 17th St.; open 
daily from 10 a. m. until dark (Tues., Thurs., and Sat., free). 

Dome of the Capitol (page 427), oi)en daily. 

Education, Bureau of, corner of G and 'sth Sts. (opposite Patent-Offlce) ; open 
daily, 9-3. 

* Executive Mansion (page 439), Penn. Ave., near 16th St.; open daily, 10-3 
o'clock. 

* Georgetown College (page 446), on Georgetown Heights ; open daily. 
Glenwood Cemetery, I5 M. from the Cajtitol ; open daily. 

Hoioard University (page 445), 7th St. Road ; open daily. 

Insaiie Asylum (page 445), 2 M. from the Navy Yard ; open Wednesdays, 2-6 

p. M. 

Interior Department, N. Corridor of Patent-Office ; 9 - 3 daily. 

* Library of Congress (page 427), W. front of the Capitol; open daily, 9-4 (or 
until the adjournment of Congress). 

Louise Home, Mass. Ave., near 15th St. (page 43S); open every afternoon. 

* Mount Vernon (page 450). Steamboats daily from the 7th St. wharf. 
Naval Museum (page 425), Navy Yard ; open daily, 9-4. 

Naval Observatory (page 443), foot of 24th St.; open daily, 9-3. 

Navy Department, 17th St., near Penn. Ave.; open daily, 9-3. 

Navy Yard (page 424), foot of 8th St. E.; open daily, 7 a, m. till sunset. 

* Oak Hill Cemetery (page 446), Georgetown Heights ; open daily from sunrise to 
sunset. 

* Ordnance Museum (page 442V corner of 17th and F Sts.; open daily, 9-3. 

* Patent-Office, Model Rooms (page 436) ; open daily, 9-3. 
Post-Office (page 43G), open daily, 9-3. 

President's House, see Executive Mansion. 

Smithsonian Institution and Museums (page 432), open daily, 9-4. 

* Soldiers' Home (page 445), 3 M. N. of the Capitol ; grounds open daily. 
State, Department o/(page 438), open daily (except Thursdays;, 9^-2^. 
Supreme Court (page 428), open daily during session. 

Treasury Department (page 439), open daily, 9-2. 

War Department (page 44'2), open daily, 9-3. 

Washington Monument (page 434), open daily on application to the keeper, who 
lives near by. 

Fees and gratuities are not expected by the attendants and custodians of the 
national buildings, and attempts to bestow them would generally be resented. 

1 It is almost superfluous to mention that the public buildings of Washington, as gener- 
ally throughout tlie Republic, are closed on Sunday. 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 423 

Post-Office, on F St. near 7th, open from 6 a m. to 11 p. m. ; and on Sundays 
from 8 to io a. m. and 6-7 p.m. Telegrapli-Ojfices. — Western Union, corner oS 
reun. Ave. and 14th St. ; Franklin, GU9 Penn. Ave. 

Horse-Cars. — All points of interest in the city can be reached by horse-cars. 
The F St. line (, Metropolitan Railway) runs prettily furnished one-horse cars, and 
is patronized by tlie better classes (fare, 7c. ; 10 tickets for 50c.). They run every 
4 min., from the Senate wing of the Capitol by the Bait. & Ohio station, C St 
Louisiana Ave., 5th St., F St. (passing the Post-Office and Pateut-Oflice), 14tU 
St., H St., and 17th St. (passing the War and Navy and new State Departments). 
The same line runs cars from Lincoln Square up E. Capital St., 1st St. E., B St., 
N. J. Ave., C St., Louisiana Ave., 5th St., P St., 14th St.. H. St., Conn. Ave., P 
St., West St. (Georgetown), High St., and Fayette St. to the Convent of the Visi- 
tation; also from the P St. Circle, out Conn. Ave. to the city-limits ; also from 
the corner of 9th and M Sts. down 9th St. to B St., 6th St. , Missouri Ave., and 
4^ St. to the Arsenal gate. 

The Washington & Georgetown Street Railway (fare, 5c. ) runs every 5 min. from 
the Navy Yard along 8th St. E. and Penn. Ave. to the Caiiitol, thence on Penn. 
Ave., 15th St., Penn. Ave., and High St. (Georgetown). The 7th St. Branch runs 
from the Potomac Ferry to Alexandria on 7th St. (intersecting the main line at 
Penn. Ave.) to the city limits near the Howard University ; where it connects 
with the Silver Springs Branch to the Schuetzen Park and the vicinity of the 
Soldiers' Home. Tlie 14th St. Branch runs (every 10 min.) from the Treasury out 
New York Ave. and 14th St. to the city limits and the vicinity of the Columbian 
University. The Columbia Railway runs (every 10 min.) from the Treasui-y over 
New York and Mass. Aves. and H St. by the Government Printing-office and St. 
Aloysius Cathedral, and terminates at the citv limits. The Belt line runs from 
the Capitol along 1st. C, 4th, 0, 11th, E, 14th, Ohio Ave., 12th, Virginia, and 
Maryland Aves. 

Kailroatls. — The Bait. & Ohio, to Baltimore and the North (see Route 66) ; 
the B;ilt. & Potomac (see Routes 67, 68). The Metropolitan Branch runs from the 
Bait. & Ohio station to Point of Ro<;ks, 43 M. (Harper's Ferry, 55 M.). The trains 
for the South leave the Bait. & Potomac station (corner of 6th and B Sts.) by the 
Washington & Alexandria R. R. (to Alexandria, 7 M.). 

Steamboats. —For Norfolk and Boston (l.y transfer), Mon. and Thurs. at 
2 P. M. from the 7th St. Avharf ; for New York every Friday from the foot of High 
St., Georgetown ; for Philadelphia on Tnes. and Fri. from Water St., Georgetown 
(by dies. & Del. Canal) ; for Baltimore and the river landings at evening on Mon., 
Tues., and Fri. from 7th St. wharf ; for Quantico (Acquia Creek) every morning 
at 7 o'clock, connecting with trains for the South ; for the river ports and the 
Northern Neck, on Mon., Tues., Thurs., and Fri., from the 7th-St. wharf; for 
Mount Vernon daily at 10 a. m. from 7th St. wharf. Ferry-boats run to Alex- 
andria every hour during the day, from the 7th St. wharf (fare, 15c. ; round 
trip, 25c.). 

Washington, the capital of the Republic of the United States of 
Axnerica, is favorably situated on the 1. bank of the Potomac River, at 
its confluence with the Eastern Branch. The site of the city is one of 
the finest in the country, and occupies an undulating plain encompassed 
by high hills. It is famous for its salubrity, and is rapidly becoming a 
favorite winter resort, while the wide avenues are being lined Avith 
handsome residences. The plan of the streets is very peculiar ; and it 
has been well said that " Washington City in its grand plan is French ; 
in its minor plan, Quaker. It is tlie city of Philadelphia griddled across 
the city of Versailles." The rectangular streets are crossed obliquely by 
21 broad avenues (120-160 ft. wide), bearing the names of the States; 
and the triangular spaces at the intersections are laid out as parks. 
There are 264 M. of streets and avenues, with more width than in any 
other city ; and of these over 160 M. are firmly paved (costing nearly 



424 Route 69. WASHINGTON. 

$5,000,000), Massachusetts Ave. and Pennsylvania Ave. are each 4| M. 
long, extending across the city from the Eastern Branch to Rock Creek. 
The last-named avenue is the main thoroughfare, and passes the Capitol 
grounds, the Treasury, White House, and new State Department, and 
continues the chief route to Georgetown. 7th St. is the next important 
thoroughfare of the city, and runs from the wharves on the Potomac to 
the heights by tlie Howard University, intersecting Penn. Ave. nearly 
midway between the Capitol and the Treasury. The population of the 
city in 1870 was 109,199, of whom 35,455 were negroes, and 13,757 were 
foreigners (mostly Irish and German). There are 5 banks, 8 daily and 10 
weekly papers, and 120 churches and chapels (of which 20 are negro, and 
6 are German). There are 22 lodges of Masons, 13 of Odd Fellows, 19 of 
Knights of Pythias, 7 of Red Men, 4 of the Brotherhood of the Union,* 
8 tents of Rechabites, 6 posts of the Grand Army of the Rejniblic, 3 
Schuetzenvereins, 2 Turnervereins, and 7 musical societies. The com- 
merce and manufactures of the city are comparatively insignificant ; and 
the majority of the inhabitants are, directly or indirectly, connected with 
the civil and military services of the Republic. 

From the Capitol Grounds, Maryhmcl Ave. leads S. AV. to the Long 
Bridge, and N. E. to the toll-gate. E. CajJttol St. runs E. (with a width 
of IGO ft.) to the Eastern Branch, passing Lincoln Square, on which a 
costly monument has been erected. N. Capitol St. leads N. to the Gov- 
ernment Printing -Office, the largest printing-house in the world. Tlie 
building is over 400 ft. long and 4 stories high, and has 52 presses and 
300 composing-stands. The third floor is occupied by the bindery. The 
number of government documents, reports, and surveys which are printed 
here annually is simply enormous; and some of the illustrated reports and 
liistories are of great beauty and typographical excellence. Just beyond 
this point is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Aloysi^ts, a plain but 
spacious building where fine music is heard on Sunday afternoons. N. of 
the Cathedral is a tall campanile. New Jersey Ave. runs N. N. W. from 
the Capitol through a thinly settled district, passing the Bait. & Ohio 
station, and terminates at the base of the heights, near the Howard 
University. 

Pennsylvania A ve. rvms E. S. E. from the Capitol grounds across the 
broad plateau where the city was intended to have been located. Tlie 
great building of the Providence General Hos2ntal is seen on the r, at 2d 
St., and is conducted by the Sisters of Charity. At 8th St. the horse-car 
line and the current of general travel turns S. and passes to the Navy 
Yard, by the Marine Barracks. The * Washington Navy Yard is situ- 
ated on the Eastern Branch, or Anacostia River, 1^ M. S. E. of the Capi- 
tol (horse-cars every 6 ndn.). It covers 27 acres, and is entered by a 
portal which was designed by Latrobe. Within the entrance are 2 long 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 425 

brass cannon which were captured by Decatur from the Tripolitau gun- 
boats (in 1804). Officers' quarters are seen on either side; and a short 
distance to the r. is the * Naval Museum, a small two-story building, 
whose interior is kept in remarkable order, and with true man-of-war's- 
man's daintiness. The polished wooden walls and ceilings are adorned 
with stars, circles, and crosses formed of bright cutlasses. Here may be 
seen Confederate torpedoes ; projectiles in great variety ; war-rockets ; 
marine howitzers ; models of heavy naval artillery; swivels; a cannon 
used by Cortez in the Conquest of Mexico ; a mortar captured from Lord 
Cornwallis ; Spanish guns ; l:)lunderbusses ; two 20-inch cannon-balls 
from the cannon on the Rip-Raps Battery ; and the stern post of the 
frigate Kearsarge, smashed by a shell from tlie Alabama. 

The Artillery Park is beyond the Commandant's residence; near the 
centre of the yard, and contains a remarkably mteresting trophy-battery. 
Here are the powerful armaments of the Confederate iron-clads Albe- 
viarle, Atlanta, and Tennessee; an immense Whitworth gun fi'om Fort 
Fisher; other heavy artilleiy from the Southei'u coast; Austrian and 
French guns ; and a heavy cannon which was on the Confederate ram, the 
Merriinac. There is a fleet of vessels in the stream, among which are 
several monitors and torpedo-boats. The monitors are battered veterans 
of the Secession War, and may be inspected on securing a permit at the 
office of the Yard. High uj) on the opposite shore is the imposing front 
of the Asylum for the Insane ; and pleasant views are afforded down the 
river. The Experimental Battery is near the shore, and is devoted to in- 
culcating the principles of naval gunnery. The great ship-houses, ord- 
nance-foundries, store-houses, and otlier buildings in the Yard, will attract 
the attention of the visitor. Two squares N. of the gate are the Marine 
Barracks, the head-quarters of the U. S. Marine Corps, a body of 2,500 
men, who are the soldiers of the fleets of the Republic, and have rendered 
the most illustrious and brilliant services in all quarters of the globe. 
The ceremony of guard-mounting is performed at the barracks every 
morning (8 in the summer and 9 in the winter), with military pre- 
cision and the music of the famous Marine Band. Tliere are some inter- 
esting trophy-flags in the armory. The Washington Navy Yard was 
established in 1804, and here were built the renowned frigates, the Wasp, 
Viper, Essex, Argus, St. Louis, Potomac, Brandy wine, Columbia, and 
others. 

The Congressional Cemetery is beautifully situated on the high bluff 
over the Eastern Branch, 1 M. above the Navy Yard, and contains over 
20 acres. There are 147 plain freestone cenotaphs, erected in honor of 
the Congressmen who have died during their terms of service. 

Among the raonuments are those of Gen. Jacob Brown, commander of the U. 
S. Army from 1821 to 1828 ; Gen. Alexander Macomb, his auccessor ; Gens. <jibson 



42G Route C9. WASHINGTON. 

and Henderson ; Commodores Tingey, Chauncey, Wainwright, Montgomery, and 
other officers of the army and navy ; Elbrid^e Gerry and George Clinton, Vice- 
Tresideuts of the U. iS. ; John I'orsyth, Secretary of State Iroiu 1856 to 1841 ; A. 
P. Upshur, Secretary of State, 1843-44 (Jcilled by the burstmg of a gun on the 
fi-igate Princeton) ; William Wirt, Attorney-Gen. from 1817 to 1830 ; A. D. Bache, 
Superintendent of the U.S. Coast Survey from 1843 to 18(57; Joseph Lovel, Sur- 
geon-General of the Army from 1818 to 1836 ; Tobias Lear, private secretary of 
V/ashington ; and many other notable men. Several of the monuments are dis- 
tinguished for artistic merit and beauty. Beyond the Cemetery is the reserva- 
tion occupied by the Ai-my and Navy Magazines. 

Tlie * * Capitol of the United States is probably the most mag- 
nificent and imposing building in tiie world. It stands on the summit of 
Capitol Hill (89^ ft. liigli), with the W. front overlooking the city, and 
the main front facing E. on tlie plateau towards the Eastern Branch. The 
surrounding parks are now being altered and artiticialized, with broail 
plazas, bronze lamps, flower caskets, etc. The general style of the 
architecture of the Capitol is classic, and the structure consists of a 
main building of Acquia Creek freestone (wliitened); surmounted by 
a majestic and somewhat disproportionate iron dome, and flanked by 
great marble extensions. It is 751 ft. long, 324 ft. in extreme depth, j 
covers 3^ acres of gromid, and has cost over $13,000,000. The * central | 
portico, on the E. front, is 160 ft. long, and consists of 24 monolithic col- 
umns supporting a tympanum in which are the sculptures of Persico 
representing the Genius of America, with Hope and Justice. The portico i 
is approached by broad stone stairways, on whose upper buttresses are | 
the statuary-groups representing the Discovery of America (carved by 
Persico), and the First Settlement of America (carved by Greenough in 
1842). On r. and 1. of the entrance are colossal * statues of Peace and 
War, in fine Carrara marble; and over the portal is a bas-relief represent- 
ing Fame and Peace crowning Washington with laurel. The Capitol is 
entered by a * bronze door 19 ft. high, which was designed by Kandolph 
Rogers and was cast at Munich in 1860 (placed in its present position in 
1871). 

The exquisite statuettes and relievos on the door represent the Life of Columbus 
and the Discovery of America, and at the key of the arch is a head of Columbus. 
On the sides are allegorical statuettes of Asia, Africa, Euroi)e, and America. 
There are 16 statuettes, representing Pope Alexander VL, Cardinal Archbishop 
de Mendoza, King Ferdinand of Spain, Queen Isabella, King Charles VIII. of 
France, Lady Beatrix de Bobadilla, King John II. of Portugal, King Henry VII. 
of England, Prior de Marchena, Pinzon, Hernando Cortez, Bartholomew Columbus, 
Ojeda. Balboa, Amerigo Vesjmcci, and Francisco Pizarro. The i»anel-reliefs rep- 
resent Columbus before the Council of Salamanca, Columbus sailing from Palos for 
Spain, his audience at the Spanish Court, his embarkation from Palos, landing on 
San Salvador, battle with the Indians, his triumph at Barcelona, Columbus in 
chains, his death-bed. 

The visitor now enters the * Rotunda, a remaikable circular hall 96 ft. 
in diameter and 180 ft. high. Over the doors are inferior bas-reliefs by 
disciples of Canova, representing : (E.) the Landing of the Pilgrims at 
Plymouth; (S.) Daniel Boone fighting the Indians; (W.) Pocahontas sav- 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 427 

ing Capt. John Smith ; (N. ) William Penn in Council with the Indians. 
The frieze (300 ft. long) is to be adorned with an emblematic series of 
sculptures representing the history of the United States. The Eotunda 
is surrounded with 8 panels containing large historical paintings, dis-' 
tinguished rather for accuracy and fidelity than for artistic merit The 
subjects are : The * Declaration of Independence, by Trumbull ; the Sur- 
render of Burgoyne, Trumbull ; the Surrender of Cornwallis, Truinhull ; 
Washington resigning his Commission, Trumbull ; the * Embarkation of 
the Pilgrims at Delft-Haven, Weir ; the * Discovery of the Mississippi 
River, Poivell ; the * Landing of Columbus, Vanclerlyn ; the Baptism of 
Pocahontas, Weir (a fine analysis of these pictures is given in Keim's 
Washington). 

The * Library of Congress is reached by the corridor from the W. 
door of the Rotunda, and occupies lofty halls which are built of marble 
and iron. The Library contains 300,000 volumes and 60,000 pamphlets, 
and is the largest in America and the 16tli in size in the woi'ld. It is 
especially famous for its collections relathig to the history of the Western 
Hemisphere ; for its extensive law-library ; and for ancient books of the 
15th and 16th centuries, autograph folios and MSS., and files of news- 
papers (among which is a series of the London Gazette from 1665 until 
1874). Tlie illustrated books are found here in great numbers and in the 
most costly editions. Ancient black-letter and vellum MSS , autograj.li 
collections, rare inaoiabula, and other quaint literary curiosities, are 
found here. Books may be read in the halls by visitors. The *view 
from the lofty W. portico of the Capitol (entered from the Library) is of 
great beauty, and includes the city and public buildings, Arlington 
Heights, and Alexandria. The Library of Congress was fovmded in 1800; 
destroyed by the British in 1814; was partially burnt in 1851 (when 
35,000 volumes were destroyed); absorbed the Smithsonian Institution 
Library in 1866, and the Force Collection in 1867. Plans are being can- 
vassed for the purpose of erecting (near the Capitol) a new and appropri- 
ate fire-proof building for the occupation of the rapidly increasing liter- 
ary collections. 

The * Dome of the Capitol overarches the Rotunda, and is 307^ ft. high 
(from the base-line of the building to the top of the statue) and 135| ft. in 
diameter. It is exceeded in size only by the domes of St. Peter's (at 
Rome), St. Paul's (at London), St. Isaac's (at St. Petersburg), and St. 
Louis des Invalides (at Paris). The structure is crowned by a bronze 
* statue of Freedom, designed by Crawford and cast by Clark Mills at 
Bladensburg. The statue is 19^ ft. high, and stands on a globe which is 
encircled by the legend E Pluribus Unum. The majestic beauty and 
sense of power in this fine piece of statuary will attract the visitor's at- 
tention. Upon its lofty and heroic face fall the first rays of sunshine 



428 Rtiute G9. WASHINGTON. 

at morning. Tlie dome is of iron and weighs over 8,000,000 pounds, rest- 
ing on massive columns and piers below. It is ascended by a stairway 
diverging to tlie 1. from the corridor which leads from tlie N. door of 
tlie Rotunda (passing near the curious electrical apparatus for lighting the 
gas-jets). Above the entablature of the building an open peristyle is 
reached, bordered by 36 fluted Corintliiau columns, and affording a pleas- 
ant walk around the dome. The stairway then ascends to the balustrade, 
whence is vieAved the great * fresco of the Apotheosis of Washington, 
painted on the inner shell of the dome and covering 5,000 square ft. 
Tliis work was done by Brumidi (a Roman by birth, American by adop- 
tion), and cost $ 40,000. Washington has F]-eedom on his r. and Victory 
on his 1., with the 13 States in the foreground; and below are groups' 
representing : the Fall of Tyranny, Agriculture, tlie Meclianic Arts, Com- 
merce, the Ocean, the Arts and Sciences (Franklin, Fulton, and Morse, 
with Minerva). On this balustrade is a remarkable whispering-gallery, 
and a stairway leads up to the promenade at the base of the great lantern 
(which is modelled after the monument of Lysicrates, at Athens). ' 

The *view from this ijoiiit is interesting and beautiful. Looking directly over 
the Senate Wing, N. Capitol !St. is seen crossing the railroad, and running out by 
the Government Piinting-Ofiiee and the Cathedral of St. Aloysius. On the distant 
heights are the white buildings of the Soldiers' Home, and a little to the 1. is the 
Howard University Passing to the 1., in the octant between N. J. Ave. and 
Tenn. Ave., is seen the seat of the chief business and iiopulation of the city, with 
the white Patent and Post Cfiiees and the City Hall. In the distance are the 
heights of Georgetown and Kalorania. Looking straight down Penn. Ave., the 
eye encounters the gray walls of the Treasury and a part of the White House, 
with the turrets of Georgetown College, on the distant heights, and the Aqueduct 
Bridge over the great market. To the W. are the national i)arks, with the Conser- 
vatory, Armory, Smithsonian Institute, Agricultural Depai-tment, and Washington 
Moninnent; and on the dark heights across the Potomac is the yellow colonnade 
of the Arlington mansion. JIaryland Ave. leads to the Long Bridge, which is 
seen crossing the river to the sites of the old cam]is and forts of the Army of the 
Potomac. Almost due S. W., the si)ire of Fairfax Seminary (Episcopal) cuts the 
sky-line over the distant Virginian heights. Farther to the 1. is the Arsenal, at 
the confluence of the Potomac and the Eastern Branch (or Anacostia River), over 
which is Alexandria, with wide reaches of the placid Potomac. N. J. Ave. runs 
S. E., by the Coast Survey buildings, to the Eastern Bi-anch ; and the Insane 
Asylum is seen on the hills beyond. To the 1 is the Navy Yard. Penn. Ave. 
runs out toward the Congressional Cemetery. Looking over the E. park, the 
course of E. Capitol St. is followed to the Eastern Branch. 

The capitoline dome was less than half done at tlie outbreak of the Secession 
War. Work was suspended u[)on it at that time, but was resumed at the desire 
of the connnander of the national volunteers, who claimed that the cessation of 
the work at the Capitol had a dispiriting etTect U])on the soldiers. The Editor has 
often stood upon the unfinished dome (in the winter of 1861 -G2), and, by the help 
of a field-glass, has seen the rebel troops drilling on the slopes of Munson's Kill, 
whose summit was crowned by a battery over which floated the Confederate flag. 

The Supreme Court of the United States occupies the old Senate 
Chamber, wliich is reached by the corridor rtmning N. from the Rotunda. 
Visitors are admitted during the sessions of the court (October to May, 
12-4 P. M. ). This hall is not large, but is one of the most symmetrical 
in the Capitol. It is semicircular, and on its diameter-line is a screen of 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 429 

Ionic columns of rich Potomac marble {breccia). The exceeding simplicity 
of the hall is relieved by a series of busts of the former Chief Justices of 
the Republic. The Supreme Court is the tribunal of final appeal, and is 
the head of the judicial department of the national government. 

Tlie Senate Extension is reached by the N. corridor, beyond the 
Supreme Court. In out\\'ard form it is similar to the House Extension, 
and is also built of Massachusetts marble, with colonnaded fronts to the 
N. and W., and on the E. a grand * portico, reached by a broad and lofty 
marble stairVvay. It consists of 22 rich monolithic Corinthian columns 
of Maryland marble, arranged in double lines, and supporting a pediment 
and tympanum which contains a group of statuary by Crawford, repre- 
senting the Progress of Civilization in the United States. America is the 
central figure, on whose 1. are figures of the Pioneer, the Hunter, and an 
Indian warrior and squaw ; and on the r. are War, Commerce, Youth, 
Education, Mechanics, and Agriculture. The superb marble vestibule is 
entered by a * bronze door, which was designed by Crawford and cast at 
Chicopee, Mass. 

The Munich foundry refused to make this door unless its cost was prepaid by 
the U. y. government (it was then the dark hour of the Secession War) ; and such 
derogatory advances being declined, the model was shipped to America, and was 
cast and finished in admirable style. The panel-reliefs represent the Battle of 
Bunker Ilill (death of Warren), the Battle of Monmouth (rebuke of Gen. Lee), 
the Battle of Yorktown, Wasliington's Triumphal Reception at Trenton, the 
Inauguration of Washington, and tlie Foundation of the Capitol. 

The first door to the 1. in the corridor leads into the Senate Post-OJice, 
which is embellislied with rich frescos representing History, Geography, 
Physical Science, and Telegraphy. The Senate lobby is open when the 
Senate is not in session, and leads to the Vice-President's Room (wherein 
is Rembrandt Peale's portrait of Washington) and the * Marble Room, 
w'hose sides and ceiling are of highly polished marble of various colors. 
The windows overlook the N. part of the city. The President's Room is 
one of the richest in the Capitol, and is adorned with frescos, symbolic, 
arabesque, and portrait. The * Senate Chamber is best seen from the 
galleries of the people, which are reached by two grand stairways. The 
E. stairway runs up from the corridor in which is a marble * statue of 
Benjamin Franklin, by Hiram Powers. The stairway is made of rich 
Tennessee marble, with columns of the same material, surmounted by 
bronze capitals. At the head of the stairway is Powell's painting of the 
Battle of Lake Erie. The W. stairway is of highly polished white marble, 
and is adorned with Walker's * painting of the Battle of Chapultepec. At 
the foot of the stairway is a marble statue of John Hancock, by Horatio 
Stone. The * Senate Chamber is 113^ ft. long, 80| ft. wide, and 36 ft. 
high, and is surrounded by galleries for the use of the people. There are 
74 Senatorial desks, arranged in 3 concentric semicii'cular lines. The 



430 Route 69. WASHINGTON. 

ceiling is an immense plane of iron and glass, with deep panels and ornate 
cornices, and 21 stained-glass symbolic centre-pieces. 

The basement of the Senate Extension is occupied by richly finished and 
frescoed committee-rooms ; and the corridors are painted throughout in 
the most delicate an<l beautiful manner (the darkness of this part of the 
building prevents a sufficient study of these rich frescos). The fauna and 
flora of America, and numerous portrait-medallions, are depicted with 
great skill upon the corridor walls, in a style borrowed from Raphael's 
toggle at Rome. 

Passing S. fronti the Rotunda the visitor sees, on the 1., a stairway which 
leads to tlie crypt of the Capitol, with its 40 elephantine columns support- 
ing the immense weight above. The upper corridor leads to the * Na- 
tional Statuary Hall, a stately and imposing chamber of semicircular 
form (96 ft. in diameter and 57 ft. high), bordered by monolithic columns 
of variegated marble. This hall was used for 32 years for the sessions of 
the House of Representatives, and is generally conceded to be the noblest 
in the Capitol. It was designed after an ancient Athenian theatre, with 
a dome like the Roman Pantheon. " Here Clay presided, Webster made 
his dehiit, Adams died." Over the N. door is a marble * clock, repre- 
senting History standing in the car of Time and recording the passing 
events. Over the S. door is a statue of Liberty, by a disciple of Canova, 
and an eagle, by Valaperti. In 1864 this hall was set apart as a national 
gallery, and each State was requested to send to it statues of two of its 
representative men. Rhode Island has sent Gen. Greene (marble) and 
Roger Williams (marble); Connecticut has sent Jonathan Trumbull and 
Roger Sherman (both marble); New York, George Clinton (bronze) and 
Robert R. Livingston (bronze) ; New Jersey is to send Gen. Philip 
Kearny and Richard Stockton ; Maryland will send Charles Carroll and 
Roger B. Taney ; and Massachusetts has chosen Winslow and Samuel 
Adams. Busts of Kosciuszko, Lincoln, and Crawford ; statues of Lincoln, 
* Hamilton, II Penseroso, and Washington, further adorn the hall, with 
the statues of Gov. Winslow, Ethan Allen, and * Thomas Jefferson. 

The corridor running S. from this hall leads to the House Extension. 
This superb building is fronted by porticos similar to those of the Senate 
(the bronze doors are not yet finished), and the main vestibule is flanked 
by coupled columns. The Speaker's Room is to the 1., and is richly 
adorned. The corridors about the galleries of the people are reached by 
two stately stairways of marble. At the head of the E. stairway is a large 
equestrian portrait of Gen. Winfield Scott ; and at its foot is a * statue of 
Thomas Jefferson, by Hiram Powers. At the foot of the W. stairway is 
a bronze bust of a Chippewa warrior, and at its head is the immense 
chromo-silica * fresco by Emanuel Leutze, entitled Westward Ho, depict- 
ing a band of Western pioneers. 



WASHINGTON. Rmite 69. 431 

The * Hall of the Representatives is the noblest legislative hall in the 
world. It is 139 ft. long, 93 ft. wide, and 36 ft. high, and contains desks 
for 302 members, arranged in 7 concentric semicircles. On the r. of the 
marble desk of the Speaker is the pedestal of Vermont marble on which 
is kept tlie mace which typifies the authority of the House; and overhead 
are two brilliant American flags. On the S. wall are * portraits of Wash- 
ington (by Vandsiiyn.) and Lafayette (by Ary Scheffer)-., also the fresco 
(by Brwmidi) of Washington receiving Lord Cornwallis's Envoy at York- 
town. The ceiling of the Hall is higlily adorned, and is of iron-work, 
with '15 stained-glass panels containing the arms of the States. The base- 
ment of the House Extension is adorned with scagliola walls and elegant 
colonnades of fluted marble columns. Bierstadt's paintings of King's- 
River Canon and the Discovery of the Hudson are in the Hall. The fres- 
cos in the chamber of the Committee on Agriculture are very rich. 

The corner-stone of the Capitol was laid in 1793 bj' George Washington, with 
masonic rites and ceremonies. The building was destroyed by the British in 1814, 
and was rebuilt soon after. Dec. 12, 1SC3, the statue of Freedom was elevated 
to its present position on the new dome (which cost §1,000,000), and the N. and 
S. Extensions were completed interiorily in 1859 and 1857. The halls of Congress 
were converted into a citadel early in 1861 ; then they became barracks for the 
National volunteers ; and on subsequent occasions the coiTidors were used as hos- 
jjitals for the army. The comer-stone of the Extensions was laid in 1851, and 
contains the words of Daniel Webster : 

" If, therefore, it shall be hereafter the will of God that this structure shall fall 
from its base, that its foundation be upturned, and this deposit brought to the 
eyes of men, be it then known that on this day the Union of the United States 
of America stands firm, that their Constitution still exists unimfjaired, and with 
all its original usefulness and glory, growing every day stronger and stronger in 
the affection of the great body of the American people, and attracting more and 
more the admiration of the world. And all here assembled, whether belonging to 
public life or to private life, with hearts devoutly thankful to Almighty God for 
the preservation of the liberty and happiness of the country, unite in sincere and 
fervent prayers that this deposit, and the walls and arches, the domes and towers, 
the columns and entablatures, now to be erected over it, may endure forever. 

"God save the United States of America. 
"Daniel Webster, 

"Secretary of State of the United States." 

In the E. Park is Greenough's * statue of George Washington, a colossal 
figure in classic costume, and in a sitting posture. It was made in Florence, 
occupied 8 years in its completion, and cost $4:i 000. It has been regarded 
as one of the grandest statues in the history of art, and has also met with 
much ridicule and condemnation. The W front of the Capitol overlooks 
a line of massive casemates, which were built for fuel, and were fronted 
by a tine glacis. These chambers were used in 1861 for the bakeries of 
the army. S. of the Capitol, on New Jersey Ave , is the head-quarters 
of the Coast Survey, which "was suggested by Jefferson, begun by 
Gallatin, organized by Hassler, perfected by Bache, and is recognized by 
every learned body in the world." 

The * Botanical Gardens (open 9-6) are W. of the Capitol, and cover 
10 acres. The conservatory is 300 ft. long and is built of glass and iron, 



432 Route 69. WASHINGTON. 

with a symmetrical central dome. Under the dome are numerous varieties 
of palms in rich frondage, luxuriant tropical ferns, mangoes, cinnamon- 
trees, bananas, and many other plants from the tropics. The temperature 
is kept at 80°. In the wings are large and brilliant * collections of the 
Tinique plants, fruits, and Howers of Africa, South America, Mexico, the 
Indies, and the South Sea Islands. This is, without doubt, the most 
extensive and varied botanical collection on the continent, and is supplied 
Vv'ith fresh curiosities by the naval exploring expeditions. The other 
conservatories contain (in their seasons) immense masses of rare and 
brilliant American flowers, and a fine fountain is located N. of the 
buildings. 

The * Smithsonian Institution is one of the most beautiful buildingg 
in the capital city, and stands on the mall between the Department of 
Agriculture and 7th St. It is in Norman Gothic, or Romanesque, archi- 
tecture, and is built of Seneca sandstone of a warm reddish-brown hue. 
The main building is fronted by two stately towers, between which is the 
carriage-porch and entrance. There are 7 other towers, of which the octag- 
onal and campanile towers of the main building are the most conspic- 
\ious. The whole structure is 447 ft. long, and the main tower is 150 ft. 
high. The E. wing is occupied as a residence by Prof. Henry, the secre- 
tary of the Institution ; and the W. wing is ended by an elegant little 
building draped with luxuriant ivy, and resembling an antique chapel. 
The * National Museum is in the main hall, which is 200 ft. long. Many 
of the curiosities were taken to the Centennial Exposition. 

On the r. are the larger mammalia, beyond which are cases containing the 
birds of all the Americas, alternating with collections of war-implements and 
domestic utensils of the aborigines of America, Alaska, and Polynesia. At the 
W. end are 2 elegant specimens of taxidermy, being large groups of brilliantly 
colored birds. The wall-cases contain tish-casts and birds ; and the centre of the 
hall is occupied by shells, turtle-cases, and curiosities from the Indian tribes. 
On the S. side of this section of the hall are ethnological collections in great 
variety ; while the galleries also contain Indian, Alaskan, and Aleut curiosities, 
weapons, and apparel, with Egyptian and Peruvian mummies at the end. In the 
S. W. gallery are Australasian, Polynesian, and African curiosities, and fine or- 
nithological specimens are found iii this department. In the E. half of the hall are 
large carnivorous animals, birds, shells, skeletons, eggs, and other collections in 
natural history, with minerals, fish, and serpents in the galleries. A cloister 
leads from the E. end to the house of Prof. Henry. From the centre of the hall 
a passage leads to the S. Vedibule, which contains a tablet from the temple of 
Miltiades at Marathon, a collection of Central-American idols from Nicaragua, 
a huge plank of red-wood from California, and the mausoleiuu of the Emperor 
Alexander Severus (brought from Sj'ria by the frigate Constitution). The Gothic 
Hall is a small but beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, with a clere-story 
and groined roof supported by slender 'columns. On the r. side are cases con- 
taining costumes and weapons of the Indians and Esquimaux, and from the 
pillars depend portraits of Indian chiefs. On the 1. side of the hall are cases 
lilled with the rich and quaint products of China, Siam, and Jai)an, including 
costly Persian sliawls and robes, carpets, weapons, china, furniture, and other 
presents sent by those governments to the Presidents of the U. S. The pearl- 
work from Siam is noticeable for its beauty, and the Persian and Arabic goods 
are curious. In the centre of the hall are cases displaying medals given to the 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 433 

officers of the U. S. A., Burmese and Siamese MSS., Chinese paper-money, Jap- 
anese MSS., Davy Crockett's tomahawk, Capt. Cook's razor, locks of hair of tlie 
first 14 Presidents of the U. S., a bolt to which Columbus was chained, the great 
seal of the Republic, treaties with the chief powers of Europe (including Turkey 
and Russia, in their own languages), the treaty of alliance with France in 1778. 
In the next case are ethnological collections from the drift, shell, stone, and other 
early epochs, including models of the lake-dwellers' house near Zurich, ancient 
remains from Dordogne, Patagonian curiosities, a model of Stonehenge, and relics 
of the old Polar explorations. At the E. end of this hall is Rembrandt Peale's 
portrait of Washington (also a curious old painting of the Moslem attack on Con- 
stantinople); and at the W. end is a fine portrait of Guizot, by Healy. 

The * West Hall is entered beyond the Gothic Hall, and is a beautiful chamber 
with groined roof, round-arched windows, and a deep apse. It was occupied for 
many years by the great library of tlie Institution, which was removed to the 
Capitol after the fire. In the centre is the celebrated Irivin-Ainsa meteorite, a 
ragged metallic ring weighing 1,400 pounds, which fell from the heavens upon 
Arizona. The Coucli meteorite, fossil woods, stalactites, cinnabar, and otlier curi- 
osities are found here ; also a mass of native copper from Ontonagon, near Lake 
Superior. This remarkable piece of ore was formerly used by the Indians as a 
sacriticial altar, as described by Father Charlevoix. It cost the U. S. govern- 
ment $5,654. On the E. side of the hall are the ore and metallurgical collec- 
tions arranged in cases and with their myriads of sjiecimens carefully classified. 
On the 8. side is the mineralogieal collection ; also the Polaris Collection, gathered 
on the voyage of the Polaris in 1870 - 73. The W. wall is occupied by a series of 
lithological specimens. In and near the apsidal projection are numerous large 
photographs of scenery in the far "West ; also a painting of Columbus before the 
Council at Salamanca. The Ethnological Hall is a spacious apartment over 
the Main Hall, which has but recently been rehtted from the Are of 1865. In tlie 
centre are casts of numerous ancient species of animals, including a megatherium, 
glyptodon, and others. 

The Smithsonian Grounds (52^ acres) are very attractive, and were 
laid out by Downing, the eminent landscape-gardener, to whose memory 
the American Pomological Society has erected a rich vase of Italian mar- 
ble, 4 ft. high and well adorned. It is E. of the Institution Building, 
and was designed by Calvert Vaux. E. of the Institution and near 6th 
St. is the Armory, a long unoccupied building designed for military 



James Smithson, a natural son of the Duke of Northumberland, graduated at 
Oxford in 1786. He was well provided for by his father, and led a quiet and 
studious life, much of which was spent on the Continent, where (at Genoa) he 
died. His favorite pursuit was chemistry, on which he wrote several articles -or 
the Royal Society. He never visited America, and knew no one here, yet, for 
reasons which have not yet been revealed, he left his whole estate "To the U. S. 
of America, to found at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institu- 
tion, an establishment for the increase and diPTiision of knowledge among men.' 
The sum given amounted to .^515,000, which was invested in Arkansas bonds and 
was lost wlien that State repudiated, but the money was supplied from the na- 
tional treasury. The building was erected by the interest-money which accrued 
during the long preliminary delays. Great contention arose in Congress as to tlie 
methods of " diffusing knowledge " ; but a library, museum, and art-gallery were 
estabhshed, and the Smithsonian Contributions have given much scientific and 
ethnological information to those who care for it. 

The * Department of Agriculture (open from 9 to 3) is sitirated ou 
the Mall between the Smithsonian Institution and the Washington Monu- 
ment (at the foot of 13th St.). It is a fine brick building in Renaissance 
arcliitecture, 170 ft. long, with 3 stories and a Mansard roof, and is cou- 
19 BB 



434 Route 60. WASHINGTON. 

structed of pressed brick with brown-stone and bronze trimmings. The 
lower corridors are flanked by prettily frescoed offices, and lead (on the 
r. ) to the library of the department, which contains a large collection of 
agricultural treatises. A double stairway leads up to the Museum of Agri- 
culture, a hall 102 ft. long and 52 ft. wide, neatly frescoed and bearing 
the arms of the 37 States. 

The cases contain specimens of the grains, grasses, and fibrile products of the 
Republic ; the varieties of woods ; silk in all stages of its formation ; foreign 
grains; Fayal aloe-laces; drugs, dyes, starches, and sugar*, plaster models- of 
American fruits ; domestic ])oultry ; birds and animals in which farmers are in- 
terested, etc. The top of the table near the centre of the hall is made from a 
slab of California red-wood 12 ft. long anil 7^ ft wide. The Kntomological Museuvi 
is entered W. of the hall, and contains a great number of insects and of works on 
entomology. The Herbarium is above the Mnseuni (E. end, 3d story), and has 
25,000 varieties of plants. The Department of Agriculture was founded in 1862,* 
and distributes 1,200,000 packages of seeds annu:dly, besides 250,000 animal re- 
ports, great numbers of monthly reports, and thousands of bidbs and jtlants. The 
Plant-Houses are W. and iS. of the main building and have an aggregate length of 470 
ft. They are of iron and glass (costing .^j 75,000) in graceful curved lines, and con- 
tain a grapery (S. wing), an orangery, and a central pavilion for palms, pineapples, 
and other tropical products. The * Floirer Gardens are in front of the main build- 
ing, and are adorned with statuary, vases, and terraces. The disj^lay of floral splen- 
dor here during the springtime and summer is worthy of a long journey to see. 
The Arboretum is to the N. ; and to the S. are the extensive Experimental Gardens. 

The Washington Monument is at the W. end of the Mall, beyond 
14th St., and overlooking the Potomac River. It is an enormous and 
costly work, but from its unfinished and disproportionate condition is 
rather a blemish than an ornament to the city. It is 174 ft. high and 81 
ft. square at the base, founded on a mass of dark gneiss, and with the 
superstructure of white Maryland marble in large blocks. In the low 
wooden building to the E. is a collection of many score of finely carved 
and ornamental stones sent by different governments. States, and societies 
to adorn the interior of the monument. Some of the American blocks 
are remarkable for their elaborate carving, especially those of the fire de- 
partments and Northern societies. Michigan has sent a block of copper 
weighing over a ton; and the various States have sent fine local stones, 
Japan, China, Switzerland, the Hanseatic Cities, Egypt, Greece, and other 
foreign states have sent memorial stones. The block sent by the Sultan 
of Turkey is covered with delicate Arabic inscriptions ; the Commune of 
Paros (Greek archipelago) has sent a block of pure Parian marble; Naxos 
contributes anotlier; there are marbles from ancient temples along the 
Mediterranean sliores ; and lava from Moimt Vesuvius. 

The monument Avas founded in 1848, and was designed to be completed as an 
obelisk 600 ft. high, with its base surrounded by a superb rotunda 250 ft. in di- 
ameter and 100 ft. high, encircled by 30 titanic columns, adorned by scores of 
statues of eminent Americans, historic T)as-reliefs, insignia of the States, and con- 
taining the tomb of Washington. It is now a matter of doubt whether the monu- 
ment will be completed (for which § 1,200,000 are necessary), or will be demolished 
and made into a grand triumphal arch. 

S. of the monument is the Government Propagating Garden, covering 8 acres 
with its forcing-houses and flower-beds. It presents a brilliant scene when the 
flowers are in bloom, and has a pleasant outlook on the Potomac. 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 435 

Pennsylvania Avenue, in that part of its course in wbicli it runs W. N. 
W. from the Capitol to the Treasury, is the most busy and attractive street 
in the city. On and near this line are the chief hotels, stores, and saloons, 
the theatresand places of amusement, and the trunk-line of the horse rail- 
road. The distance between the Capitol and the Treasury is about 1 J M. ; 
and the magnificent width of the avenue gives it an imposing appearance, 
which is in undesirable contrast with the plain buildings on the sides. 
Four and a Half St. is the first important cross-street W. of the Capitol, 
and leads N. by the Territorial buildings and the fine building of the Metro- 
politan Methodist Church (where the President attends) to the old City 
Hall, a handsonie,(but incomplete) structui-e of painted freestone which is 
now occupied by the U. S. courts. In front of its central Ionic colonnade is 
a Doric column on which is an lieroic marble statue of Abraham Lincoln, 
erected by the citizens of Washington. The statue is not attractive for its 
beauty, but bears the calm, rugged, and determined expression of the 
martyr-President, and is looking towards the Capitol. Louisiana Ave. 
runs nearly S. W. from this point, and affords a fine vista, extending- to 
the Arlington mansion, in Virginia. N. of the City Hall is the Judiciary 
Square. Ah St runs S. from Penn. Ave., and crosses the Bait. & Potomac 
K R. at Virginia Ave., near the great Jefferson School, which accommo- 
dates 1,200 pupils. Farther down, at the corner of 6th and F Sts., is St. 
Dominic's Church, a spacious and imposing granite structure (unfinished) 
with several side-chapels. It is the head-quarters of the Dominican Or- 
der in the United States, and is intended to be worthy of the ancient 
power and wealth of that brotherhood. This part of the city (bounded 
by B St. N.) and the canal is locally known as "the Island," and was 
formerly (piite insulated by a canal which connected the Potomac with 
the Eastern Branch, N. of the Mall, and was recently covered over as a 
sewer. The Island is inhabited for the most part by persons of moderate 
means. 4^ St. terminates at the Arsenal gate. 

The * Arsenal is situated on a reservation of 44 acres on Greenleaf 's 
Point, at the confluence of the Potomac and the Eastern Branch. It was 
founded in 1803, destroyed by the British in 1814, rebuilt by Col. Bom- 
ford, and during the Secession War was the depot of ammunition and ar- 
tillery for the great Army of the Potomac. The grounds are pleasantly 
laid out, and command beautiful vieAvs over the broad river. R. of the 
entrance is a 15-inch Rodman cannon, which was placed there in position 
to command the river early in the Secession War. Near the centre of the 
grounds is an immense park of artillery, containing 7 - 800 cannon of all 
sizes, from small mortars and mountain-guns to the heaviest marine and 
fortress artillery. A fine battery of brass pieces fronts on the river; and 
before the old barracks is a trophy-battery containing French, British, 
Mexican, and Confederate guns ; the fine Blakely cannons sent from 



436 Route 69. WASHINGTON. 

Europe to insurgent South Carolina ; and a Rhode Island cannon which 
was curiously wounded at the Battle of Gettysburg. The officers' quarters 
near the middle of the grounds occupy the site of the old U. S. Peniten- 
tiary, where Boo.th and his fellow-consi)irators were buried. 



Beyond 4^ St. Penn. Ave. passes several large hotels and a succession 
of stores, and reaches the broad plaza at the intersection of Louisiana 
Ave., 7th St., and C St. Here are the large new buildings of the Centre 
Market, which should be visited at early morning to see the rich supplies 
of vegetables and fruits, meats and game, with which this city is favored. 
It is claimed that the Washington markets have larger supplies and at 
cheaper rates than any city of the size in the Union; and the Northern 
tourist will be interested to see the quaint and ruinous old wagons which 
biing in the products of the adjacent Maryland and Virginia counties, and 
the briskly trading negro women witli their garden-truck. 

Seventh St. is one of the main thoroughfares of the city, and runs N. 
from the wharves along the Potomac, passing between the Smithsonian 
Institution and the Armory, and intersecting Penn. Ave., with the Capitol 
in sight on the r. and the Treasury on the 1. It continues N. througli a 
busy mercantile quarter, and soon reaches the Post-Office. 

The * General Post-Office is between 7th and 8th, E and F Sts., just 
S. of the Patent-Office. It was built between 1839 and 1865, and cost 
$ 1,700,000. It is the finest example in America of the Italian palatial 
architecture, and is a quadrangle of marble 300 x 204 ft. in area, enclosing 
an inner court-yard. The elegant colonnades above the rustic basement 
are of Carrara marble. The main front is on E St. , between Doric col- 
umns ; and the City Post-Office fronts on F St. The Dead-Letter Office 
contains a large collection of curiosities from the mail-bags, and is on the 
F St. front (2d story). 

Tlie ** Patent-Office is situated between 7th and 9th, F and H Sts., 
and was built between 1849 and 1864 at a cost of $2,700,000. The style 
is the massive severity and chaste simplicity of the earlier classic art; 
and the * F St. portico is a majestic work of art, consisting of 16 
immense Doric columns, approached by a long stairway, and upholding 
a classic pediment. The other 3 fronts of the building are adonied by 
colonnades. The F St. front is of whitened sandstone; the others are of 
fine Maryland marble. The massive strength of the interior will attract 
the attention ; and the 4 sides enclose a spacious court-yard, on which the 
fronts are of granite. The inventive genius of the Americans is fully 
displayed here, amid over 100,000 models, in whose contemplation it is 
said that inventors sometimes grow crazy. During the last 250 years 
Great Britain has issued 40,000 patents, but between 1840 and 1870 the 
United States issued over 50,000 (whose fees amounted to .$ 2,500,000). 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 437 

The * Model-Rooms are open daily from 9 a. m. until 3 p, m,, and 

contain models of all the patents issued in the United States since 1836, 

making a bewildering maze of complicated and interesting mechanism. 

rhey are arranged in cases, on which are cards describing the contents. 

The * S. Hall is a marvellous room, 242 ft. long, 63 ft. Avide, and 30 ft. 

high, upheld by 36 Doric columns, and frescoed brilliantly in the Pom- 

peian manner. Many of its curiosities were renioved to the Centennial 

Exposition. 

Case '23, near the door, contains Washington's tents and camp-equipage, — 
his blankets, cami)-chest, and antique furniture; the model of a barge invented 
by Abraham Lincoln; an arabesque ornamented gun, presented to Jefferson by 
the Emperor of Morocco ; tlie treasure-chest of the Continental Army ; the com- 
mission of Washington; and the * Declaration of Independence. Case 24 
contains 13 scimeters given by tlie Bey of Egypt to U. S. naval oflficers ; the 
china sets given to AVashington by the Society of the Cincinnati, and to Mrs. 
Washington by Lafayette ; the uniforms of Washington and Jackson ; the arms 
of the Washington family ; the coat of Gen Paez (Venezuela); De Kalb's war- 
saddle ; the first Amerif-an flag raised by loyal Southerners after the war; tlie 
diamond-hilted sabre given to Com. Biddle by the Viceroy of Egypt ; the war- 
sword of Washington ; etc. On the r. of the entrance is Franklin's old printing- 
press ; and on the 1. are the models of the Washington Monument and of Perich's 
statue of Washington. 

The W. Hall is 271 ft. long ; the N. Hall is 266 ft. long, with a re- 
markable ceiling ; and the E. Hall is 271 ft. long, with a groined roof 
resting on marble piers and pilasters. These spacious apartments are 
filled with immense numbers of models (often of fine and delicate work- 
manship), repi-esenting every department of mechanical art, from an im- 
proved knitting-needle to a floating battery or line-of-battle ship. 

Beyond the Post and Patent Offices, 7th St. runs out through a mer- 
cantile district, and grows less and less interesting until it reaches the 
base of the heights N. of Washington, and near the Howard University. 



Looking up 8th St., to the r. from Penn. Ave., the classic front of the 
Patent-Office is seen. 9th St. leads (in one square) to the lofty and ornate 
sandstone building of the Young Men's Christian Association. On the 
second floor is a library of 17,000 volumes, a reading-room containing the 
principal newspapers and magazines, and parlors for social meetings. A 
ready welcome is given to strangers. On the next floor is Lincoln Hall, 
tlie finest lecture-hall in Washington, with frescoed walls and amphi- 
tlicatrical seats. In the Association chapel religious meetings are held at 
mnm and at 6 P. M. daily. At the corner of 9th and F Sts. (opposite the 
Patent-Office) is the Masonic Temple, a fine building of granite and sand- 
si r>ne, embellished with symbolic carvings and containing a fine public 
hall, which is much used for balls and sociables. 

The Army Medical Museum (open daily, 9-3) is on 10th St. W., be- 
tween E. and F Sts. On tlie first floor is the Surgeon- General's Office, 
with 16,000 volumes of hospital records, and the names of 270,000 soldiers 
who died in the hospitals, and 210,000 who were discharged as disabled. 



438 Route CS. WASHINGTON. 

The Museum proper is on the third floor, anrl is the finest and most conipletn 
of the kind in the world. It contains 16,000 specimens (900 pathological and 
2,800 microscopic preparations), illustrating all manner of wounds and diseases. 
The Anatomical fSection contains about 1,000 human skulls, mostly of Indians ; 
and the Section of Comparative Anatomy contains 1,000 skeletons of American 
mannnalia. This building was formerly used as Ford's Theatre, and within its 
walls, April 19, 1865, President Lincoln was assassinated by John Wilkes Booth. 
After the fatal shot Mr. Lincoln was carried to the house across the street (No. 
516), where he died during the night. The theatre was closed by the government, 
and was afterwards purchased and api)lied to its present use. 

Advancing along Penn. Ave. to 10th St., beyond the fine iron front of 
the Chronicle office, the Smithsonian Institution is seen to the 1., and at 
the foot of 13th St. (1.) is the Department of Agriculture. Passing the 
imposing building of the National Jiepublican, the avenue intersects 
Fourteenth St., near the National Theatre and Willard's Hotel. Thi^ 
important street begins at the S. at the Long^ Bridge, a shabby structure 
about 1 M. long (partly causeway), which crosses the Potomac River. 
This bridge was strongly fortified during the Secession War, and was the 
chief line of communication between the Army of the Potomac and its 
supply-depots. Passing thence to the N., 14th St. runs between the 
Department of Agriculture and tlie Washington Monument, intersects 
Penn. Ave., passes Newspaper Row (the head-quarters of the Washing- 
ton correspondents), crosses F St., with the Treasury on the 1., gives 
glimpses of the Foundry (Meth.), Epiidiany (Epis.), and N. Y. Ave. Pres- 
byterian churches on the r. ; and traverses a district of fine residences. 
Across Franklin Square the fine building of the Franklin School is seen; 
and a short distance beyond, the broad Massachusetts Ave. crosses tlie 
street, running N. W. to the * statue of Gen. Scott. This magnificent 
work was completed in 1874 at a cost of $ 20,000, and was cast (in Phila- 
delphia) from Mexican cannon captured by Scott. It is colossal in dimen- 
sions, and represents Scott sitting upon his horse and overlooking the 
field. The design was by H. K. Brown, of New York. The pedestal is 
composed of 5 enormous blocks of Cape Ann granite, two of which weigh 
respectively 119 tons and 84 tons, and are the largest quarried stones in 
the world (except those in the ancient walls of Jerusalem and Baalbek). 
Near this point is the Louise Home., an elegant building which was erected 
by Mr. Corcoran for a home for impoverished old ladies of culture and 
social standing. At S St., 14th St. passes the Protestant Orphan Asylum, 
a roomy and comfortable building of red brick, and soon afterward 
reaches the city limits, near the Columbian University. This institu- 
tion is under the auspices of the Baptist Church, and has 11 instructors 
and over 400 students, with a famous law department (on Judiciary 
Square) with 5 instructors and 160 students, and a medical college (H St., 
near 14th) with 10 instructors and 70 students. The college buildings 
occupy the crest of Meridian Hill, which comniands fine views of the city 
and the river. Wayland Seminary (Baptist) is on this hill. 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 439 

The * * Treasury Department is at the comer of Penn. Ave. and 15th 
St. and remains open to visitors from 9 A. m. to 2 p. m. It is the finest 
building for the purpose in the world, and is constructed in massive and 
imposing Ionic architecture. The E. front was built in 1836, presenting 
an unbroken line (342 ft. long) of .30 Ionic columns, and is of painted 
sandstone. The remainder of the building is of gray granite from the 
coast of Maine, and is of the most substantial and enduring character. 
The dimensions (over all) are 582 ft. long by 300 ft. wide, with 2 enclosed 
court-yards, and the cost has been about i| 6,000,000. The W. front has 
side porticos and a grand central entrance fronted by 8 columns, and ap- 
proached by broad granite stairways. The immense size of the mono- 
liths of the columns and capstones (the latter 18x17 ft. in area) are 
worthy of note, and the columns are said to be tlie largest of the kind in 
the world (weigliing 33 tons). The N. and S. fronts are alike, and are 
adorned by imposing porticos. The N. front is below the level of the 
Avenue, and looks out on a garden which is embellished by a fountain ; 
and the S. front is highly elevated and looks across a broad platform 
which is to be adorned with statuary, and commands a pleasant view 
over the Potomac River. Within the building are 195 rooms, with broad 
corridors adorned witli colored marbles. The finest apartment is the 
C'(tsh Room, which extends tlirough two stories, is lined witli rich marble, 
— red and white for the pavement, Sienna, Bardiglio, and Pyrenean for the 
panels, black and dove-colored Vermont, white Tennessee and Carrara, and 
veined marbles for the pilasters and stylobates. The coffered ceiling is 
enriched by elaborate mouldings, and is lightly gilded. The Gold Room, 
or Treasury vaults, may be seen by permit from the Treasurer. There is 
usually about $ 10,000,000 in gold coin in these vaults, defended by thick 
walls of chilled iron and steel. The reserve vaults are not accessible; and 
the bond vault is near the Gold Room. The operations of counting the 
currency, examining the mutilated bills, etc., may be seen from the cor- 
ridors. Great numbers of ladies are engaged in clerical duties in the 
building. The Freedmen's Savings and Trust Company has a stately 
brownstone building N. of the Treasury, in whose upper stories are the 
offices of the Department of Justice. 

The * Executive Mansion (popularly known as the White House) is 
\h M. W. of tlie Cai)itol, and fronts on Penn. Ave. near 16th St. It was 
modelled after the palace of the Duke of Leinster, and is 170 ft. long by 
86 ft. deep. The material is freestone (painted white), and the portico to 
the N. is of considerable depth (upheld by Ionic columns). Toward the 
Potomac is a semicircular portico with an Ionic colonnade. The chief at- 
traction within the mansion is the * East Room (open daily from 9 to 3), 
a fine hall 80 ft. long and 40 ft. wide, adorned in classic style and richly 
furnished. In and near the vestibule are portraits of Presidents John 



440 Route 69. WASHINGTON. 

Adams, Van Biiven, Tyler, Polk, Fillmore, Pierce, and Lincoln ; also 
Stuart's portrait of Washington. The Blue, Red, and Green Rooms are j 
also on this floor, and are sumptuously decorated. The Execntive Office- 
and the Cabinet Rooin, with the private apartments of the family, are on 
the second floor. W. of the mansion are the spacious conservatories ; on 
the S. is the pleasant park where the Marine Band plays on Saturday 
afternoons during the summer season. This park is bordered by the 
graceful curves of Executive Ave. The President's Mansion was foimded 
in 1792 ; first occupied by John Adams, in 1800 ; destroyed by the Brit- 
ish by fire and cannonade, in 1811 ; and rebuilt after 1818. 

Lafayette Square is N. of the White House, and is the most beautiful 
park in the city, being filled with fine shrubbery and trees, and travj 
ersed by pleasant paths. It is adorned with a colossal equestrian * statue 
of Gen. Andrew Jackson, by whose pedestal are 4 trophy-cannon. The 
statue weighs 15 tons, and was cast from Spanish cannon taken by Gen. 
Jackson at Pensacola. It was designed by Clark Mills, and is remarkable 
for its ingenious balancing, which is efl'ected by making the flanks and 
tail of the horse of solid metal. Near the sides of the park are 2 rich 
bronze vases, 7 ft. high, which were cast at the Navy Yard from antique 
models. N. of the Square is the aristocratic old Episcopal Church of St. 
John (attended by Presidents Madison, Monroe, and Jackson); and the 
Catholic Church of St. Matthew is to the E. Vermont Ave. leads N. N. E. 
from the Square, passing (on the first 1. corner, fronting the Square) the 
former home of Senator Sumner, also the Arlington Hotel, and Scott 
Square. Connecticut Ave. runs N. N. W. from the Square to the new 
and fashionable N. W. quarter of the city, and is traversed by horse-cars. 
The new British Legation building has been erected on this avenue ; and 
on the C St. Circle is the stately mansion of Senator Stewart. At the ■ 
corner of Conn. Ave. and I St. is Farragat Square, which is soon to be 
adorned with a statue of Admiral Farragut (see page 57). 

The * Corcoran Gallery of Art is at the corner of Penn. Ave. and 17th 
St., and is open daily from 10 o'clock until dusk (4 P. M. in winter; 6 
P. M. in summer). On Tues., Thurs., and Sat. it is free; on the other 3 
days a fee of 25c. is taken. Tlie building is of brick and brownstone, in 
pure Renaissance architecture, and is embellished with synibolic carvings 
and the inscription " Dedicated to Art." It is one of the finest art-build- 
ings in the world, and was constructed for the purpose (thoroughly 
fire-proof) by Mr. W. W. Corcoran, a wealthy and beneficent banker of 
Washington. It was unfinished at the outbreak of the Secession War, 
and was seized and occupied during the war for the Quartermaster- 
General's office. In 1870 the renovated building was deeded by Mr. Cor- 
coran to trustees who should administer it in the best interests of the 
people. 



WASHINGTON. Route 69. 441 

I Visitors are recommended to buy the curator's catalogue (25c.), which is very full 
in its descriiitions. The Hall of Sculpture is tilled with casts of the master- 
pieces of antiquity. A fcrtion of thefiieze of the Parthenon (after Phidias), 180 ft. 
long, runs around under the cornice. Among the casts are the Discobolus ; 9, 
t Venus of Milo; 10, Venus di Medici; 11, Capitoline Venus ; 12, Ariadne Deserted; 
Euterpe, Dana, Eros, Ahundarce, Minerva, Germanicus. Antinous, the Dying 
Gladiator, the Laocoon, Nero, Ajax, Silenus, Venus Callipygos, Achilles Borghese, 
Mercury, A'enus, Crouching Venus, Venus at the Bath, iEscul^pius, Demosthenes, 
Julia, Aristides, Sophocles, Socrates, Homer, Jupiter, Pohhymnia, Apollo, Centaur, 
Venus Anad\omene, Apollo Belvidere (58 , .Tuno, Mcleager, Menelaus, Jason, Cly- 
tie, Isis, Trajan, and many others. Side Gall, i-- . - Venus Vic trix, after Gib- 
son ; Venus, after Canova, Clytie, after Bintliart : Venus Victrix. after Tliorwald- 
fen. The Keii»i8saiire Gallery contains copies of the Baptistery Doors of 
Florenre ; the Slaves. David, and Day and Night, after Michael Angelo ; and 18 bas- 
reliefs by Jean Goujon. 

The Hall cf Bronze.*; contains a pair of Sevres va.ses ; a * series of lemarkably 
delicate copies of the Hildesheim Treasures (exquisite silver plate, dug up at Hilde- 
sheim, and supposed to have belonged to the Roman Consul Varus), in 30 pieces ; 8 
pieces of Faience ware ; statuette of Echo, Mind ; bust of Humboldt, Ranch ; several 
■vases of majolic.-i and Sevres porcelain; 114 of Bar^e"s exquisite and renowned 
♦bronzes (the finest collection in America) : 96 electrotype reproductions of medi- 
eval European armor, weapons, plate, ornaments, ba.«-reliefs, shrines, etc. ; antique 
fire-dogs ; statuettes, after John of Bologna and Barye's famous group of Theseus 
Slaying the Centaur 

IMaiii Galiei-y (on the second floor, 9G X 45 ft. in area). 1. Portrait of W. 
W. Corcoran, Elliott: 2, 3, The Departure and Return, Cole; 4, Watoring-Place, 
Srhrfycr : 5. Odalisque, l^t. Pieire ; 6, Forest-Scene. DiiranrJ : 7, *The Vestal, 
J^onx; 9, Drove at the Ford, Hart: 10, 11. Landscapes, Robbe ; 12, Amazon, 
Ln.tze : 14, Paddy's Mark, iWco/ .• 17, * Mercy's Dream, Huntington : 18, Magdalena 
River, Chvrrh; 19. Savoyard, Collelte : 21, Caesar Dead, Gerome : 23, 24, Interiors, 
Demarne ; 25, Autumn" on the Hudson, Dovshty ; 26, Seaport, J. Vftnet : *27, 
Adoration of the Shepherds, R. Mevgs : 28, Pets, E. Ju/mson : 30, Fruit, Pirelli; 
34, Le I'uits qui Parle, J. Vely ; 36, The Drought in Egypt, Portaeh; 40, The Long 
Story, Mount; 42, Lost Dogs, Von Thoren; 45, Fete of St. John in Dalecarlia, 
raJmsim ; 46, * Count of Wurteu.burg and his Dead Son, Aiy Scheffer ; 47, Crom- 
well and Milton, Uutze ; 49, 50, Landscapes, Japy ; 53, Portrait of John Tyler, 
H'-aly; 54, M. Lasteyrie, R. P^nle ; 55, Andrew Jackson, Sully; 57, John Ran- 
d.ilph, Hnrdina : fS Death of Mo.ees, Cabanel; 59, Charlotte Corday in Prison, 
TihiUrr: 61, Guizot, Healy : 62, Henrv Clay, Inmnn : 65, Farm-House, Morlanri ; 
m. In Madeira, HildfhrnviH ; 68, *Le" Regiment qui Passe, Detaille : 70, Scheven- 
iiigen, Katmmerir ; 72, Satyrs, Priait : 73, Heir Presumptive, Boughton ; 74. In 
Auvergne, Bail: 75, Con.stantinople, Zinv. E. Gallery — 1, French Cuirassiers 
and Davariau Prisoners, Detaillf. W. Gallerv— 2, Landscape, Gisnoux; 4, 
L.nox, Mass., Ofh/ie ; 6, Swiss Scene, Seefisck; 8, Mt. Washington, Kensett ; 9, 
Napoleon T. : 11, Flumboldt : 13, Cascade, aft>-r Achenbarh : 15, Battle, V Brnigkel ; 
16, Castel Gondolfo. C. P Crnnch ; 20, Norman's Woe, Lanwan ; 23, Great Falls of 
Potomac: 24, Italian Moonlight, Tavernier ; 25, On the Hudson, Kensett: 2b, ^ ir- 
gin and Child, n</r/6»r«/ to Murillo ; 27, Christ Bound. Van X)?M- (?) :dO, Hugue- 
not's Daughter ; 34. 35, Seaports, Canaletti (?) ; 37, The Trojan Horse ; 38, Calabrian 
Coa.«t: 40, Landscape, Inness; 42, Catskill Creek ; 43, Flemish Seaport; 45, Duck- 
Shooting. , ,. VX J 

The Octagon Room is S. of the gallery, and is skilfully draped and hghted. 
It con trains busts of Geuevra.and * Pro.serpine. by Powers ; Penseroso. Rinehart ; 1 he 
Veiled Nun : und Shakespeare. In the centre of the Octagon is Hirani Powers s 
world-renowned * statue of the Greek Slave. In the S. E. Gallery is Rinehart s 
statue of Endymion : and in the S. IV. Gallery is Riaehart's The Sleeping Children, 
with a portrait of Washington (after Stuart). 



442 Route G9. WASHINGTON. 

The War Department occupies a plain old building at the corner of 
Penn. Ave. and 17th St., and lias a large force of clerks employed in it* 
spacious halls. There are many military curiosities scattered about tha 
building, and the gallery of portraits of the Secretaries of War is inter-' 
esting. The. Navy Department is Just S. of this building, and is similar 
to it in general appearance. These antiquated structures are soon to be 
removed to give place to the new and stately building of tlie * State, War, 
and Navy Departments, which is now being erected. This immense 
structure was commenced in 1S71, on the plans of Supervising- Architect' 
Mullet, an<l carries out his Italian-Renaissance ideas, — the bold pavil- 
ions, Doric columns, and lofty Mansard roof. It will be in strong con- 
trast witli the pure classic architecture for which the public buildings of 
Wasl)ington are famous. The building is to be 507 ft. in extreme length,, 
and 312 ft. in width (including tlie pavilions on the -1 fronts), and will 
cost $5,500,000. The material is granite (from Maine for the lower 
courses, and from Richmond, Va., for the superstructure), and there will 
be 150 rooms. The building will be absolutely incombustilile. Tl»e hall 
of the Secretary of State, the ambassador's saloon, an>l tlie library (30,000 
volumes), are superbly furnished and of noble proportions. 

The * Ordnance Museum (ojieii daily, 9 - 3) is in Winder's Building (comer 
of 17th and F Sts.), whirli is devoted to government offices. The Museum is on 
the second floor of the W. wing, and contains models of field and fortress artillery 
in position ; casemates ami ramparts ; iniiforms, and every kind of military equip- 
ments ; shot and shell of all calibres, from the innnense 20-inch l,000-])ound ball 
to the small G-pounder ; gra])e-shot, canister, spherical case, and all manner of 
projectiles ; rockets, busli-fire, tourbillons, petards ; cartridges, from the small 
pistol-calibre up to the great bags of powder for the 20-incli guns ; rebel shot and 
shell; cavalry forges and caissons; chevaux-de-frise ; a steel Whitworth gun; 
Catling and eoftee-mill guns ; the Egyptian camel-artillery ; the cari-iage of the 
lirst(rehel) cannon fired during the Civil War; a model of the Rock Island Arse- 
nal ; Jeff. Davis's rifle ; and a section of an oak-tree which was literally cut down 
by musket-balls in the battle of Spottsylvania. The hall is draped with hundreds 
of Confederate battle-flags, and of State and regimental banners, which were 
either taken in battle or in the great surrenders of the Southern armies. 

The Signal-OfSce is on G St., near the War Department, and is the 
head-quarters of the Weather Bureau, under Gen. A. J. Myer. The in- 
struments in use here are of the most delicate character. The original 
design of the Signal Corps was to transmit intelligence quickly during the 
progress of battles or military movements, by means of signal Hags. Since 
1870 the corps has been engaged in tabulating and reporting in advance 
(by telegraph) the conditions of the atmosphere and the probabilities of 
tlie weather. Cautionary signals are displayed at the chief lake and ocean 
ports if a storm is approaching them ; and the predictions of the Weather 
Bureau are generally verified. The Hydrographic Office is at the comer 
of 18th St. and N. Y. Ave., in an ancient building called the Octagon. Its 
chief business is with charts and sailing directions. 



I 



WASHINGTON. Rmite 69. 443 

The ancient Van Ness mansion is at the foot of 17th St. It was the home of 
David Burn?, owner of tlie land on which a large ]iart of the city is built. His 
daughter Marcia was married by Gen. Van Ness, of New York (in 1802), who made 
of this estate one of the linest places in the country. 

Rawlins Square is on New York Ave. , near ISth St. , and is prettily adorned. 
Herehas been placed a statue of Gen. John A. Rawlins, Secretary of War in 1869. 

Penn. Ave. passe.s between the Corcoran Art Gallery and the "War De- 
partment, and deflects to tlie r. at 17th St , passing through an old quarter 
of the city to the Washinrfton Circle (at 28d St.), in which is an equestrian 

statue of Gen. George Washington, by Clark Mills (completed in 1860). 
He is represented as at tlie Battle of Princeton, with his terror-stricken 
charger recoiling before the fire of the hostile artillery. 

The * U. S. Naval Observatory is at the foot of 24th St. W., and is 
one of the chief in.stitutions of the kind in the world. It occupies a hill 
near and 96 ft. above the Potomac ; and the central building is provided 
with a revolving dome. There are numerous fine instruments, the chief 
of which is the great equatorial telescope (the largest of the kind in the 
world). The observatory is on the first meridian for astronomical pur- 
poses in the U. S. (the Greenwich meridian is used for nautical calcu- 
lations), and is in latitude 38'' 53' 38" N., and longitude IT 3' 6" W. of 
Greenwich. On the Observatory Hill encamped part of the army of 
Braddock, in 1755; and Washington wished to have a National Univer- 
sity founded here. 

On Oct. 21, 1783, Congress was insulted while in session at Philadelphia by a 
party of mutinous uoldiers, and removed its sessions to Princeton. It had then 
occupied 8 different locutions within as many years, and uow desired to ejtablish 
a federal city for tlie location of the national capital. The great difficulty was 
found in the local pride of tlie sections, each of which desired to have the capital 
within its bonlci'3. New York wanted it at Kingston, Rhode Island at Newport, 
Maryland at Annapolis, and Virginia at Williamsburgh. South Carolina protested 
against Philadelphia on account of the antislavery sentiment there. German- 
town, Wrightstown (Penn.), and Havre de Grace also had strong advocates ; and 
in 1787 Lee, of Virginia, i)roposed Georgetown, which was, however, rejected by 
Mass., N. Y., Va. , and Ga. In 1790 an act was passed locating the city on the 
hills of Conococheague (the present site), and Washington purchased the requisite 
land from the 4 resident farmers. As early as 1G63 the domain was called Rome, 
the traversing water-course the Tiber, and the chief eminence (on which the Capi- 
tol now stands) was known as the Capitoline Hill, — not, as has been intimated, 
on account of prophetic intimations of its future greatness, but because it was 
owned by a Mr. Pope, who facetiously desired to be called the Pope of Rome. In 
1755 Washington had encamped on the present site of the Naval Observatory 
with Braddock's troops, and probably had studied the surrounding topography, 

April 15, 1791, the corner-stone of the District of Columbia was laid with 
Masonic ceremonies. Gen. Washington named the new capital "The Federal 
City"; but in the following year (1792) the commissioners entitled it " The City 
of Washington." Jefferson detested the old Babylonian plan of rectangular 
squares (as exemplified at Philadelphia); and under his influence the surveyors 
(L'Enfaiit and Eilicott) introduced a system of grand Versaillaise avenues. The 
commissioners ordered the founding of an ornate itinerary column in the present 
Lincoln Square (like the Umhilims in the Roman Forum), whence all American 
distances should be computed and the national roads should depart. A grand 
national church (non-sectarian) was to be founded on tlie ])resent Patent-Ofhee 
site ; and 15 squares were to be given to the States for adornment. In 1788-89, 
Maryland and Virginia ceded a domain of 100 square M. to the U. S. (of which 
the Virginian portion was unfortunately retroceded in ISiii). 



444 Route 70. WASHINGTON. 



1 



The Battle of Bladenshurg was fou^^ht Au^-. 22, 1814, when 3,000 Maryland 
militia were led out to rcimlsu the iij\;,tlii)g British force under Gen. Ross/ The 
militia, though superior in number t-> ti.c enemy, behaved with shameful pol- 
troonery, and fled at the first volley ; but a detachment of 400 sailors with artillery 
fought valiantly until they were surrounded and overpowered, and the hostile 
force then occuiiicd the city (after losing 250 men). President Madison had 
watched the battle, and was obliged to seek refuge in Virginia. The Navy Yard 
had been destroyed by the Americans, and the British, under the lead Of the 
truculent Admiral Cockburn, proceeded to burn and cannonade the Capitol, 
White House, and other public buildings. After these vandalic acts of destruction 
the invaders retired, leaving the shabby village in ruins. 

At the opening of the Secession War Washington was an unclean and widely 
scattered city of about 60,(i00 inhabitants, with many slaves and nnassimilated 
factions of society, Northern and Southern. Wide and desolate avenues ran 
through half-settled districts, luij^aved and nmddy ; and the unfinished i)ublic 
buildings looked ragged and uncomely. Tlie volunteers reported that it was 
" hardly worth defending, except for the eclat of the thing." The hfdf-disloyal 
District militia was inadecjuate, even if willing, to protect the city against the il- 
surgent Virginians ; and great enthusiasm was manifested when the Central 
Pennsylvania troops reached the capital. The armed and disciplined 6th Mass. 
quickly arrived, and was followed by the 7th N. Y., and thereafter by a vast 
stream of Northern and Western volunteers. The camps of the Army of the 
Potomac were hence brth, for a long time and at ditl'erent periods, about the city ; 
and its vast depots of amnuuiition and supplies were located here. It retreated on 
Washington after the disastrous defeats at Bull Run (July 21, 1861 ; and August, 
1862). On "the solemn circle of those far- bastioned hills" about the city were 
established lines of fortilicMtious greater than those of Torres Vedras or any othera 
lieretofore constructed in the world. The defensive perimeter covered 35 M. ; and' 
20,000 acres of woodland were cleared to give play to the guns. There were 56 
forts and 50 batteries, connected by many miles of intreiuthments and rifle-jtits, 
with heavy bomb-proofs and secure niasked roads. They mounted 8-900 guns 
(.some of the heaviest calil)rc\ and needed a garrison of 25,000, while with 50,000 
men the city was impregnuble. In July, 18C4, while nearly all the troops were 
with Grant before Petersburg, the delcnces were assailed by a division of Confed- 
erate veterans under Gen. Eaily. The men of the civil service were enrolled 
regiments and put into the rifle-jiits, but the artillerists in Fort Stevens and De 
Russey (7th St. Road) did all the work, shattering with a heavy convergent fire a 
storming party of rebels, and easily driving back the hostile field-guns. In the 
nick of time the veteran 6th Corps arrived on transports from the South, and, 
marching out through the fortifications, fell upon the astonished enemy. Early 
retired to the Valley of Virginia in season to be defeated by Sheridan. Since the 
close of the war and the grand pa' eants of the parade of Grant's and Sherman's 
united armies, the growth of the city has been remarkably rapid and liealthy. In 
1871 the District of Columbia was erected into a Territorial government, under 
wliose administration immense amounts have been si>ent in paving and grading 
the streets and embellishing the city. This government was broken up in 1874. 

70. The Environs of Washin^on. Arlington and Mount 
Vernon. 

Bladensburg is 6 M. N. E. of Washington, and is a shabby old Mary- 
land village, near the battle-field of Aug. 22, 1814. 1 M. distant, and iu 
a sequestered glen near the highway, is the famous " duelling-ground," 
where so many fatal duels were fought during the earlier days of the Re- 
public. The most mournful of these encounters was that between Com- 
modores Barron and Decatur, in wliich the latter was mortally wounded. 
2 M. N. of Bladensburg is the noble old estate of George Calvert, of the 
Lord Baltimore family, where a deer-park was formerly established. 



SOLDIERS' HOME. Route 70. 445 

The Government Asylum for the Insane (of the army, navy, and 
District of Columbia) is reached by crossing the Navy Yard Bridge and 
ascending the heights beyond Uniontown. The building is 750 ft. long, 
and is in collegiate Gothic architecture, occupying an estate of over 400 
acres. It stands on a high ridge over the Eastern Branch, and overlooks 
Washington and the Potomac. The Columbia Institution for the Deaf 
and Dumb occupies the old Kendall Green estate, N. E. of the city. It 
is open to both sexes, and has a collegiate department. The central build- 
ing is a beautiful sandstone structure in ornate Gothic architecture, and 
is richly adorned and furnished ; while the adjacent buildings are spacious 
and commodious. The Glenioood Cemetery is 1^ M. N. of the Capitol, 
and is a pleasant rural burying-ground. 

The Howard University is on the 7th St. road just beyond the city 
limits, and was founded in 1867 (by the efforts of Gen. 0. 0. Howard) for 
tlie education of youth without regard to sex or color. It has nearly 600 
students, of whom (report of 1871-72) there are, in the normal depart- 
ment, 238 ; preparatory, 100; collegiate, 35; theological, 26; law, 67; 
medical, 45; commercial, 84; musical, 21. The larger part of the stu- 
dents consists of negroes, from Washington, the Southern States, the 
West Indies, and Africa. The Univei'sity building is a stately structure 
of white brick, containing the lecture-rooms and museums, and overlooks 
the city from its lofty hill-top. The view from the tower is very pleas- 
ing. To the N. are the Miner Hall, Normal Building, and the Clarke 
Hall; and to the S., on the plain, are the Medical College and Freedmen's 
Hospital. 

The * Soldieys' Home is 3 M. N. of the Capitol (horse-cars on 7th St.), 
near the 7th St. Road. It consists of several marble buildings in Norman 
architecture, surrounded by a fine park of 500 acres, which is laid out 
with winding roads, lakelets, and copses. Near the dormitory building 
is a bronze statue (10 ft. high) of Gen. Scott, by Launt Thompson. This 
noble asylum, " the Chelsea of America," was founded in 1851 with the 
proceeds of a forced levy on the city of Mexico, which Gen. Scott's army 
carried by storm in 1847. The military-asylum fund had increased by 
1868 to $800,000, and was about to be distributed to the State asylums, 
when the commissioners of this institution applied it to the purchase of 
W. W. Corcoran's adjacent park and domain of "Harewood." This 
home is for disabled soldiers of the regular army (who forego their 
pensions while here), and is supported by a tax of 12c, a month on each 
soldier of the army. Presidents Pierce and Lincoln made this their 
favorite summer residence. N, of this point is a National Cemetery, 
where 5,424 soldiers are buried. The Rock Creek Church (St. Paul's) is 
a fine old Episcopal church near the Home, and situated in a broad and 
venerable graveyard. The church was built in 1719, with bricks imported 



446 nouie70. GEORGETOWN. 

from England, and has been somewhat remodelled. Beyond this glen are 
the bare heights which were occupied by Forts Totten and Slocum and 
their connecting batteries ; and farther to the W., beyond the 7th St. 
Road, are Forts Stevens and De Ptussey, whose fire scattered the rebel 
invaders in 1864. 

Georgetown {Union Hotel) is a quaint little city of 11,384 inhabitants, 
separated from Washington by the small ravine of Rock Creek, and sit- 
uated on a line of bold heights overlooking the Potomac. It is connected 
with Washington by 4 bridges over Rock Creek, and by 2 lines of horse- 
cars. The low riverward street is lined with half-ruined warehouses, 
which mark the decline of the commerce of the port. The upper line of 
heights command fine views over many leagues, and are occupied by old 
villas, where dwell the lea<lers of the polite and cultured society for 
which Georgetown is famous. * Oak Hill Cemetery is one of the most 
beautiful in the country, and covers the slopes of the heights toward 
the deep glen of Rock Creek, with great groves of old oaks. It covers 30 
acres, and is richly endowed. The chapel is a handsome Gothic building 
to the r. of the entrance, and is remarkable for its luxuriant ivy, whicli 
completely covers the stone-work. Among the eminent men buried in 
the cemetery are Chief Justice Chase (died 1873), Gen. Reno, Secretary 
Stanton, Bodisco (the Russian Minister), and numerous officers of the army 
and navy. Near the N. E. corner is the massive Doric * mausoleum of 
W. W. Corcoran. The Linthicum Chapel is worthy of note, and the 
Van Ness-Bums Mausoleum (modelled after the Temple of Vesta, at 
Rome) is in the E. part of the grounds. About half-way down the slope 
is a small bronze monument, admirably executed, representing a dead 
cavalry-soldier. Beyond the Cemetery is the Georgetown high-service 
reservoir, a loftily situated, dome-shaped structure which is visible from 
a great distance. 

** Oldish, castellated, with queer, feudal-looking round-towers, stands 
Georgetown College, on the heights above the Potomac." This vener- 
able institution was founded in 1789 by the tolerant and scholarly Mary- 
land patrician, John Carroll, first Roman Catholic Bishop of the U. S. 
It has 18 instructors and 251 students (many of whom are in the pre- 
paratory department), and instructs on tlie ancient and approved system 
of the Pere Jouvency. From the lofty and sequestered grounds is ob- 
tained a most beaiitiful * view, embracing parts of Washington and 
Georgetown, the Arlington Heights, with their crumbling forts, and a 
long vista of the broad and silvery Potomac. 

The extensive grounds include a vineyard (for sacramental wine), wide play- 
grounds, and serpentine walks. The old building is flanked by newer construc- 
tions, and the round-domed astronomical observatory is on the knoll to the N. 
The * library contains over 30,000 volumes, and is especially rich in patristic 



GREAT FALLS. RouielO. 447 

literature and ancient volumes (100 printed before the Reformation). There are 
alio rich illuminated MS8., black-letter missalrf and prayer-boolcs, a Bible dating 
from 1485, the Decretals of St. Isidore, the BoUandist Lives of the Saints, and a 
set of religious works printed in nearly every language and hieroglyph of Europe, 
Asi I. and the Americas (see case near the S. wmdow). The museum contains 
m.iny curious natural and historical souvenirs, including some relics of the 
Decatur family. "Visitors are conducted through the buildings by bland Jesuits, 
in mediaeval costumes. This richly endowed college is the head-quarters of the 
Jesuits in the District, and has laige medical and law schools. The brotherhood 
also conducts the Gonzaga College, in "Washington, and is very i)0werful in this 
re, don. Under its auspices, several thousand Catholics of the District made a 
l)ilgrimage (in May, ISTi) to the anr.ient mission-church of White Marsh, in Mary- 
land, where the Church held its conventions during the colonial era (near which 
is a statue of the "Virgin Mary, carved in the rock over a spring which is repute! 
to produce miraculous cures). 

The Convent of the Visitation is on Payette St., near the College (reached by F 
St. horse-cars from "Washington), a-.ul has fine buildings in a paric of 40 acres. 
It is under the nuns of the Order of the Visitation, and has a large seminary for 
young ladies, much patronized by the Catholic aristoci-acy of the neighboring 
States. It is the oldest house in America of this order, and was founded in 1799. 

The Aqueduct Vyrkl'ie cros.ses the river at Georgetown, and connect.? 
the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal with the Alexandria Canal, The aqueduct 
■was drained in 1861, and was used during the Secession War, for the pas- 
sage of troops, supplies, and artillery. It is now provided with a carriage- 
way above the water-course. The canal was built in 1828-41 at a cost 
of $13,000,000 (mcst of which was borne by Maryland), and runs from 
Cumberland (see page 412) to Georgetown, a distance of 182 M., with 75 
locks, 11 aqueducts, and numerous tunnels (one of which is 3,100 ft. 
long). It is desired to extend it to Pittsburgh. 

Analostan Island is opposite Georgetown, and contains 70 acres. The 
dilapidated mansion of Gen. Mason still stands on a knoll at the S. end. 
Here, in its palmy days, was born James M. Mason, U. S. Senator from 
Virginia (1847-1861, then expelled for disloyalty), author of the Fugitive 
Slave Law, and Rebel Commissioner to Europe (with Slidell). 

The * Great Falls of the Potomac are about 14 M. from the Capitol. 
The road passes the great reservoirs of the water-works, amid very pleas- 
ant scenery, viewing on the 1. the Chain Bridge and its connected fortifi- 
cations, and the Little Falls (37 ft. of rapids). About 7 M. beyond 
Georgetown is the * Cabin Jolin Bridge, the largest stone arch in the 
world. The aqueduct is here carried across Cabin John Creek about 100 
ft. above its bed on a granite bridge of 220 ft. span ; and from the canal 
beneath looks like a mere thread against the sky. The Mountain Spring 
Bridge is 1 M. above, and is a fine elliptical span of substantial masonry. 
At the Great Falls the river is narrowed by precipitous banks and rocky 
islands, and passes through and down the ragged slopes, falling 80 ft. in 
IJ M. The principal fall is 40 ft. high, and the neighboring scenery is 
remarkable for its ragged appearance. 

The Washingrton Aqueduct was founded in 1856, and has cost $3,500,000. 
It collects the Potomac water by a line of stone dams at the Great Falls, and con- 



448 Rmte 70. ARLINGTON. 

ducts it to Washington hy an aqueduct 18 M. long The receiving reservoir is 4 
M. above Georgetown, and contains 163,000,000 gallons ; the distributing reservoir 
is 2 M. below, and contains 150,000,000 gallons ; and the Georgetown high-service 
reservoir contains 1,000,000 gallons. 



" On Fame's eternal camping-grounds 
Their silent tents arc spread, 
And Glory guards, with solemn round. 
The bivouac of tlie dead." 

The * Arlington National Cemetery is about 4 M. from the Capitol, 
on the Virginian shore of the Potomac River, and is reached by carriages 
either from the Aqueduct Bridge or the Long Bridge (the latter route 
being somewhat longer, and leading by the old fortifications of the tite- 
du-pont). It is about 1^ M. from tlie Georgetown terminus of the horse- 
car line, and is easily reached by good walkers. The main entrance is 
through an arched gateway at the S, E. corner of the grounds. There are 
15,585 soldiers buried in the cemetery, the greater part of whom are back 
of the Mansion House, drawn up in long lines on a high and well-shaded 
plateau. The officers are buried above and along the carriage-way; and 
near the garden is a massive granite cenotaph surrounded by 4 cannon, 
under which are the remains of 2,111 unknown soldiers, gathered after 
the war from the battle-fields between Bull Rim and the Rappahannock. 
Near this point is an amphitheatre with sittings for 5,000 persons, where 
are held the annual services of Decoration Day {Msiy ^()). Among the 
lines of graves are numerous inscriptions : 

•' The neighing troop, the flashing blade, " These faithful herald tablets. 

The bugle's stirrins; blust. With mournful pride, shall tell 

The charge, the dreadful cannonade, QVhen many a vanished age hath flown) 

The din and shout are past The story how ye fell. 

Nor War's wild note, nor Glorys peal, Nor wreck, nor change, nor winter's bliglit, 

Shall thrill with fierce delight Nor Time's remorseless doom. 

These breasts, that nevermore may feel Shall mar one ray of Glory s light 

The raptures of the fight." That gilds your deathless tomb. " 

The white soldiers are buried W. of the mansion; and the colored 
troops and refugees are on the slopes some distance to the N. 

The Arlington mansion is a stately old building occupying a hill-top 
200 ft. above the river, and fronted by a classic portal resting on 8 mas- 
sive Doric columns. It is provided with spacious wings, stables, slave- 
quarters, gardens, and conservatories. The *view of Washington and 
the Potomac River from the portico is one of the most beautiful in 
America, and is of itself worth the journey hither. The interior of tlie 
mansion (open to visitors) contains nothing of interest; the valuable 
mementos of Washington and collection of pictures was carried away by 
the family in its flight. 

The Arlington estate belonged to Mr. D. P. Custis, whose widow was married 
by George Washington, who left the estate to George Washington Parke Custis, 
the grandson of Mrs. Washington and the adopted son of Washington. Tliis 
gentleman built the Arlington mansion about 1802, and the domain became cele- 
brated for its good cheer and generous hospitality, Mr. Custis's daughter married 
Robert E. Lee, who afterwards dwelt here while an officer of the U. S. Army. 



ALEXANDRIA. Route 70. 449 

Here he made his fatal decision to follow the fortunes of the insurgent South and 
soon afterwards went to Richmond. The deserted estate became a camp-ground 
for the National troops ; forts were erected on its hills ; and the mansion was 
used as a head-quarters. In 1863 the domain was sold on account of the non- 
payment of taxes, and was purchased by the United States. The cemetwy was 
completed in 1867, and is the scene of solemn and imposing yearly ceremonies at 
which the President and Cabinet and the chiefs of the army and civil service are 
usually present. 

Fort Whipple is on the eminence next N. W. of the mansion. It was 
one of the lighter field-works of the Defences of Washington in 1861-65, 
and is noAV used as the head-quarters and training-school of the Signal 
Corps of the army. Fort Corcoran was over the head of the Aqueduct 
Bridge ; Fort Albany was S. of Arlington ; and the storm-beaten renniants 
of other forts are found all along the lieights for many miles. 



Alexandria [Mansion House) is situated at the confluence of the Poto- 
mac River and Hunting Creek, 7 M. below Washington (ferry-boats hourly 
from 7th St. Wharf, 15c. ; railroad hourly from corner of 6th and B Sts.). 
It is a city of 13,570 inhabitants, devoted to commerce and the shipping 
of corn and tobacco. Tlie streets are quaint and quiet, paved with great 
uneven stones, and lined with staid and characteristic houses. The in- 
habitants are almost altogether of the purest Virginian stock, with the 
peculiar dialect and manners of the Old Dominion. The names of the 
streets — King, Queen, Prince, Duke, St. Asaph, etc. — are suggestive 
of the old-time memories of the people. The chief object of interest is 
Christ Church, a venerable edifice (corner of Wasliington and Cameron 
Sts.) in the peculiar " Queen Anne's architecture " which was common to 
the pre-Revolutionary Episcopal churches of Virginia, now falling into 
ruin throughout the tide water counties. This church was erected be- 
tween 1765 and 1773, of imported bricks, and is interesting from the fact 
that George Washington was a vestryman and had a pew here (No, 59), 
which is still reverently shown. The church is surrounded by a venerable 
graveyard. Pew No. 46 was occupied by Robert E. Lee, of Arlington, 
afterwards commander of the rebel armies. On the outskirts of the city 
is a National Cemetery containing the remains of nearly 4,000 National 
soldiers who died during the Secession War. The Little River Turnpike 
runs W. from Alexandria to Annandale and Fairfax Court-House, and 
was the chief route of advance for the National armies during the war. 
It is very familiar ground to thousands of Northern gentlemen. Near the 
city it passes the ruins of Fort Ellsworth, on Shuter's Hill, beyond which 
a road diverges to the r. to tlie Fairfax Seminary, a famous theological 
school of the Episcopal Churcli, with 3 professors, 59 students, 450 alumni, 
and a library of 9,000 volumes. The buildings are neat and commodious, 
and occupy a secluded hill-top, whence are gained delightful views of the 
broad Potomac, Alexandiia, and Washington. The Seminary was occu- 

cc 



450 Route70. MOUNT VERNON. 

pied by troops during the Secession War, and a short distance to the W., 
beyond Fort Worth, was the picket-line which watched the debatable 
ground of Northern Virginia. Rugged roads lead.N. along the embattled 
ridges to Hunter's Chapel and Arlington Heights. The A ccotink Turn- 
pike runs S. from Alexandria across the broad estuary of Hunting Creek 
and over the bold lieights where stand the ruins of Fort Lyon and its con- 
nected batteries. This road commands pleasant views of the stately 
Potomac, and leads to Mount Vernon. 

Alexandria was founded in 1748, under the name of Belhaven, and soon became 
a commercial port of considerable importance. In 1755 Braddoek's Anglo-Amer- 
ican army rendezvoused here, and the governors of 5 colonies met in the town to 
concert plans of operations against the French. Washington was a fi'equent visi- 
tor here, and left substantial tokens of his esteem. In 1814 the town was taken 
by the British, who carried away large quantities of provisions and several vessels. 
Alexandria pertained to the District of Columbia from 1788 to 1846, when it was 
given back to Virginia. Early in 1861 it was occupied by rebel cavalry ; and on 
May 24 the N. Y. Fire Zouaves occupied the place, their Colonel, Ellsworth, being 
killed while taking down the Secession flag on the Marshall House hotel. Thence- 
forth for 4 years the city was overrun with soldiers and girt with fortifications, 
and its streets were barricaded with palisades and abatis. The damages caused by 
the war have never been retrieved. 

* Mount Vernon is 15 M. below Washington, and is reached by steam- 
boats, which leave the foot of 7th St. at 10 A. M. daily (fare down and 
back, including admission to the grounds, $ 1.50). The voyage down the 
river is very pleasant ; and the quaint wharves of Alexandria are soon 
reached, beyond which the boat passes (on the r.) the lighthouse on 
Jones's Point and the mouth of Hunting Creek. Landings are made at 
Fort Foote and Fort Washington (an old stone fort, well armed and 
garrisoned, which was destroyed by the British in 1814). Crossing the 
river diagonally, with the outlet of Little Hunting Creek on the r., the 
steamboat stops at the landing of Mount Vernon. 

The mansion-house is a wooden building of considerable size and 
antique style, with a broad and lofty portico fronting towards the Poto- 
mac. The views of the river, especially to the S., .are of great beauty 
and attractiveness. The interior of the mansion is spacious and anti- 
quated; and the room in which Washington died (S. side ; second story ; 
fine view from windows) and the chamber occupied by Lafayette (second 
story) are its most interesting parts. The dining-hall contains the paint- 
ing of Washington before Yorktown, by Rembrandt Peale ; also copies 
of Trumbull's and Stuart's portraits of Washington. The Sienna-marble 
mantel (carved in Italy, and presented to Washington in 1785) and the 
ancient harpsichord in this room will attract the attention ; also the key 
of the Bastile in the hall (presented by Lafayette), and the personal 
mementos of Washington in the other rooms of the groimd floor. N. 
W. of the house are the buildings of the lodges, servants' quarters, etc., 
and a garden which was laid out by Washington. The old family-vault 
occupies a pleasant situation near the river. 



FREDERICKSBURG. Route 70. 451 

The country about Mount Vernon is rich in memories of "Washington 
and his eminent contemporaries. 7 M. S. W. of the mansion is the ancient 
Pohick Church, an Episcopal parish church which was located by Wash- 
ington, who Avas one of its vestrymen. It was built in 1765, and at one 
time had a large, wealthy, and aristocratic congregation, but is now 
abandoned and in a semi-ruinous condition. Beyond this point is the 
ancient and decadent hamlet of Occoquan, at the head of navigation on 
the Occoquan Creek, and below the great wilderness called the Occoquan 
Forest. A few miles below is Fredericksburg (founded in 1727, and 
named in honor of the heir-apparent to the English throne), a quaint and 
dilapidated little city on the Rappahannock River. It was completely 
ruined by a long and terrific bombardment from the artillery of the Army 
of the Potomac ; and here (and at Chancellorsville, a short distance to 
the S.) the National armies suffered two disastrous defeats. The Con- 
federate cemetery near Fredericksburg is adorned with a monumental 
memorial; and the National cemetery contains the remains of many 
thousands of patriot soldiers who fell in the defeats in this vicinity. Still 
farther down the tide-water region is Westmoreland, "the Athens of 
Virginia," with its ancient ruined churches and mansions and decadent vil- 
lages. This county derives its honorable title from the fact that within 
its borders were born the two Lees who signed the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence, " Light Horse Harry " Lee, Judge Bushrod Washington, Pres- 
ident Monroe, and George Washington, with numerous other prominent 
men of local renown. Near Fredericksburg stood a stately (but unfin- 
ished and desecrated) monument over the grave of the mother of Washing- 
ton, on whose site the nation is about to erect a new and worthy memorial. 

The *Tonib of Washington is a plain and homely brick structure 
near the Mount Vernon mansion, and on the edge of a steep hillside over 
a wooded glen. Within, and visible through the iron-work of the gate, 
are the marble sarcophagi which contain the remains of George and 
Martha Washington. 

In 1743 Laurence Washington married Anne Fairfax, and soon afterward built 
the spacious mansion on the Potomac, wliich he named Mount Vernon, in 
honor of Admiral Vernon, with whom he had served in the terribly disastrous 
campaign against Cartagena (on tlie Spanish Main). Laurence's young half- 
brother, George, was a frequent visitor liere, and inherited the domain in 1752. 
This became his cherished home; and here he engaged in the labors of agri- 
culture, hving prudently, vet with a generous hospitality, and entertaining the 
most distinguished men of America. After his death the estate passed to other 
branches of the tamily ; and in 1856 the mansion and 6 acres of land were pur- 
chased for $ 200,000 by the Ladies' Mount Vernon Association, aided by the efforts 
of Edward Everett, it has since been the property of the nation, and was treated 
with sacred respect by both armies during the Secession War. 

George Washington, " the Father of his Country," and the victorious general 
of the American armies in the War for Independence, was descended froni an 
ancient rural patrician family of English Northamptonshire. He was born Feb. 
22, 1732 in Westmoreland County, Virginia, on the banks of the Potomac, Angus- 



452 Route 70. WASHINGTON. 

tine and Mary Washington being his parents. At the age of 14 (his father having 
been dead 3 years) he received a wan-ant as a midshipman in the British navy ; 
and his baggage had already been sent on board the frigate, when his mother 
withdrew her consent, and he was sent to school. In his 17th year he was sent 
on a surveying expedition to the Alleghany Mts., and devoted 3 years to the 
business of surveying. He went to Barbadoes in 1751, and on his return was 
put in command of forces of Virginia militia. In 1759 he left the provincial 
service, married Mrs. Martha Custis, and thenceforth devoted his time to agri- 
culture and Virginian local government. He was commander of the troops of the 
Province in 1755 and 1758, and in 1774 was sent as a delegate to the Continental 
Congress at Philadelphia. In 1775 he was chosen commander-in-chief of the 
American armies, and proceeded at once to the N. to carry on the siege of 
Boston. Henceforth he led the Continental forces through long, and oftentimes 
adverse, campaigns, before superior armies of royalist troops, and kept the dis- 
couraged, unpaid, and half-fed Americans in line by his personal influence and 
power. Late in 1783, the national independence being secured, he resigned his 
commission, and retired to Mount Vernon. In 1789 he was inaugurated first 
President of the United States, and held that office through two terms. In 179? 
he again retired to his estates, and lived here in quietness, amid the well-be- 
loved scenes of his youth, and in the company of his noble wife. He died 
Dec. 14, 1799. 



INDEX 



Abbey Island, Md. 389. 
Aberdeen, Md. 389. 
Abington, Pa. 300. 
Absecom, N. J. 294. 
Adams, N. Y. 159. 
Addison, N. Y. 230. 
Adirondack, N. Y. 137. 
Adirondack Mts. 133-158. 
Afton, N. Y. 322 
Aiden Lair, N. Y. 135. 
Albany, N. Y. 85, 162, 329 

Arsenal 86. 

Cathedral 87. 

Dudley Observatory 87. 

Erie Basin, 85. 

Law School 86. 

Manor-House 87. 

New Capitol 86. 

St. Peter's 87. 

State Hall 86. 

State Library 86. 
Albany Lake 157. 
Albion, N. Y. 175. 
Alburgh Springs, Vt. 120. 
Alburtis, Pa. 253, 306. 
Alexandria, Va. 449. 
Alexandria Bay, N. Y. 159, 

160, 194. 
Alfred, N. Y. 230. 
Alhambra, the 154. 
Allegany Reservation 231. 
Alleghany Mts., Md. 411. 
Allegheny City, Pa. 356. 
AIlento\vn, Pa. 304, 252. 
Alma, N. Y. 230. 
Almond, N.Y. 230. 
Altamont, Md. 412. 
Altoona, Pa. 349. 
Amagansett, N. Y. 53. 
Amber, N. Y. 200, 248. 
Amboy, Perth 48, 257. 
Aniboy, South 289. 
Amenia, N. Y. 60. 
Amherst Id., Can. 193. 
Amityville, N. Y. 47. 
Ampersand Mt. 146. 
Amsterdam, N. Y. 162. 
Andes, N.Y. 216. 
Angelica, N. Y. 230. 



Annandale, N. J. 250. 
Anuandale, N. Y. 82. 
Annapoli:*, Md. 416. 
Annville, Pa. 254. 
Anthony's Nose 71, 109. 
Anthony's Ponds 150. 
Antietam, Md. 409. 
Antwerp, N. Y. 160. 
Ararat, Mt., Pa. 322. 
Arch Spring, Pa. 348. 
Arlington, Va. 448. 
Armagh, Pa. 346. 
Arnprior, Can. 132. 
Ashley, Pa. 312. 
Atco, N. J. 294. 
Athens, N. Y. 84. 
Athens, Pa. 318. 
Atlantic City, N. J. 294. 
Attica, N. Y. 2-33. 
Auburn, N. Y. 200, 319. 
Audenreid, Pa. 311. 
Aurora, N. Y. 207, 319. 
Ausable Chasm 118. 
Ausable Forks 138, 140. 
Ausable Ponds, N. Y. 143. 
Avalanche Lake, N. Y. 138. 
Avondale, Pa. 373. 
Avon Springs, N. Y. 229. 
Aylmer, Can. 132. 

Babylon, N. Y. 47. 
Bainbridge, N. Y. 322. 
Bald Eagle Valley 348. 
Bald Lakes, Can. 191. 
Ballston Spa, N. Y. 94. 
Baltimore, Md. 394. 

Athenaeum 398. 

Battle Monument 397. 

Calvert Station 398. 

Cathedral 398. 

City Hall 397. 

Druid Hill Park 402. 

Exchange 400. 

Federal Hill 404. 

Fort McHenry 404. 

Franklin Square 402. 

Greenmount Cem. 403. 

Historical Society 398. 

Hospitals 404. 



Baltimore, Md. 

Loudon Park Cem. 404. 

Loyola College 398. 

Maryland Institute 400. 

Masonic Temple 398. 

Mt. Vernon Church 399. 

Odd Fellows' Mon't 401. 

Patterson Park 401. 

Peabody Institute 399. 

St. Ignatius 398. 

St. Paul's 398. 

Tunnels, the 395. 

Unitarian Church 399. 

Washington Mon. 399. 
Barclay, Pa. 318. 
Barnegat Beach, N. J. 291. 
Barnes's Glen, N. Y. 206. 
Barren Id., N. Y. 45. 
Barry town, N. Y. 82. 
Bartlett's, N. Y. 146. 
Bash Bish Falls 60. 
Basking Ridge, N. J. 250. 
Batavia, N. Y. 175, 176, 203. 
Bath, N. Y. 44, 229. 
Bath Id., N. Y. 179. 
Batsto, N. J. 292. 
BattleId.,N. Y. 217. 
Bay Pond 140. 
Bayport, N. Y. 48. 
Bay Ridge, N. Y. 44. 
Bay Shore, N. Y. 48. 
Bay Side, N. J. 292. 
Beach's Lake, N.Y 152,157. 
Bear Mt., N.Y. 72. 
Beauharnois, Can. 199. 
Beaver Lake 157. 
Beaver, Pa. 362. 
Beaver Falls, Pa. 362. 
Beaver Meadow Falls 143. 
Beaver ton. Can. 191. 
Bedford, N. Y. 59. 
Bedford Springs. Pa. 347. 
Beede's Falls, N. Y. 143. 
Beeren Id., N. Y. 84. 
Beesley's Point, N. J. 297. 
Bellaire, 0. 415. 
Belfort, N. Y. 157. ^ 
Bellefonte, Pa. 348. 
Belleville, N. Y. 159. 



454 



INDEX. 



Bellport, N. Y. 48, 51. 
BellvaleMts.,N. Y. 221. 
Beloeil Mt., Can. 121. 
Bc'lpr^, 0. 414. 
Belvidere, N. J. 299. 
Belvidere, N. Y. 230. 
Ben venue 345. 
Benwood, W. Va. 415. 
Bergen Cut, N. J. 254. 
Bergen Point, N. J. 249. 
Bergen Tunnel 220. 
Berkeley Springs, W. Va. 

411. 
Bernice, Pa. 318. 
Bethel, N. Y. 224. 
Bethlehem, Pa. 301, 320. 
Beverly, N.J. 287. 
Big Clear Pond 147. 
Big Falls 141. 
Big Moose Lake 156. 
Big Stream, N.Y. 213. 
Big Wolf Pond 149. 
Bingen, Pa. 301. 
Binghamton, N.Y. 226, 822. 
Birdsboro', Pa. 332, 337. 
Birmingham, Pa. 355. 
Birmingham Falls 118. 
Black Brook 138. 
Black Chasm Falls 93. 
Blackhead Mt. 93. 
Black Lake, N.Y. 195. 
Black Mt. 108. 
Black Rock, N. Y. 236. 
Blackwell's Id , N. Y. 36. 
Bladensburg, Md. 444. 
Blairsvillc, Pa. 352. 
Blood's, N.Y. 203, 229. 
Bloomfiekl, N. J. 239. 
Bloomfield, Pa. 345. 
Bloomingdalc 139, 147. 
Blooming Grove Park 224. 
Bloomsburg, Pa. 372. 
BIos.sburg, Pa. 229. 
Blue Mt. 148. 

Blue Mt. Lake 152, 135, 151. 
Bluff Point, N. Y. 384. 
Boiling Spring, Pa. 375. 
Bolton, N. Y. 108. 
Bombay Hook, Del. 392. 
Boonton, N. J. 240. 
Boonville, N. Y. 152, 155. 
Boquet Mts., N. Y. 116. 
Borden town, N. .1. 288. 
Boreas Pond 137, 143. 
Boreas Spires 137, 144. 
Bosom Bay, N. Y. 109. 
Boston Corner, N. Y. 60. 
Bound Brook, N.J. 250. 
Bower's Beach, Del. 393. 
Bowie, Md. 419. 
Bo^vmanville, Can. 191. 
Bradford, Pa. 231. 
Brady's Bend, Pa. 358. 



Branchport, N. Y. 384. 
Brandon, Vt. 102 
Brandvwine Springs, Del. 

391. 
Brandywine, the 385. 
Brant Lake 134. 
Brantingham Lake 156. 
Brasher Falls, N.Y. 128. 
Brewster's, N. Y. 60. 
Bricksburg, N.J. 291. 
Bridesburg, Pa. 286. 
Bridgeport, Pa. 365, 374. 
Bridgeton, N. J. 292,296. 
Bridgeville, Del. 393 
Brigantine Beach 295. 
Brighton, N.Y. 171. 
Brilliant, Pa. ^58. 
Bristol, Pa. 261,288. 
Broad Top City 347. 
Brockport, N. Y. 175. 
BrockvUle, Can. 132, 195. 
Broctou.N. Y. 236, 361. 
Brooklyn, N. Y. 38. 

Acad, of Design 41. 

Atlantic Docks 40. 

Bay Ridge 44. 

Court House 41. 

Cypress Hills 42. 

Greenwood Cem. 43. 

Holy Trinity 41. 

Mercantile Lib. 41. 

Navy Yard 40. 

Plymouth Church 41. 

Prospect Park 42. 

Tabernacle 42. 

Washington Park 41. 
Brookside", Pa. 334. 
Brookville, Pa. 858. 
Brook wood Point 325. 
Brown's Tract 155, 157. 
Buckingham, Can. 132. 
Budd's Lake, N. J. 241. 
Buffalo, N.Y. 233, 175. 

Arsenal 235 

Cathedral 234. 

Erie Canal 236. 

Fort Porter 234. 

Insane Asylum 235. 

Park 2.35. 

St. Michael's 235. 

St. Paul's 234 

Terrace, the 234. 
Burdick's Glen 206. _ 
Burlington, N. J. 287. 
Burlington, Yt. 116. 
Burning Spring 183. 
Bushkill, Pa. 244. 
Bush River, Md. 389. 
Bustleton, Pa. 261. 
Butler, Pa. 352. 
Buttermilk Creek 206. 
Buttermilk Falls 72. 
Buttermilk Falls 151. 



Cacapon Mts. 411. 
Caldwell, N. Y. 104, 134. 
Caledonia, N. Y. 203. 
Caledonia Springs, Can. 13J 
Callicoon, N Y. 224. 
Cambridge, Md. 394. 
Cambridge, N. Y. 103. 
Camden, Del. 393. ; 

Camden, N.J. 286. 
Camden, N. Y. 159. 
Camers Hump Mt. 142. 
Canadice Lake, N. Y. 229. 
Canajoharie, N. Y. 164. 
Canandaigua, N.Y. 202, 384 
Canandaigua Lake 203. 
Canarsie, N. Y. 47. 
Canaseraga Falls 168. 
Canaseraga Valley 230. 
Canastota, N. Y. 168 
Canoe Place, N. Y. 52. 
Canoga, N.Y. 207. 
Canonsburg, Pa. 363. 
Canton, N. Y. 161. 
Cape Ilenlopen, Del. 893. 
Cape Mav, N.J. 297. 
Cape Vincent 160, 192, 194.'* 
Carbondale, Pa. 321. 
Cardiff 248 
Carleton Id. 193. 
Carlisle, Pa. 374. 
Carlisle Springs, Pa. 375. 
Carlstadt. N. J- 220. 
Carmel, N. Y. 60. 
Carroll's Id , Md. 389. 
Carthage, N. Y. 157. 
Cascade Bridge 225- 
Ca.<=tle Philipse 67. 
Castleton, Vt. 102. 
Catasauqua, Pa 305, 820. 
Catawissa, Pa. 336. 
Catawissa Vallev 335. 
Catlin Lake 135, 150. 
Catskill, N. Y. 90. 
CatskillMts.,N. Y. 90. 
Cattaraugus, N. Y. 231. 
Caughnawaga 120, 199. 
Cauterskill Cove 92. 
Cauterskill Falls 91. 
Cauterskill Lakes 91. 
Cave, Ball's 328. 

Howe's 328. 

Lawson's 329. 

Nothaway 328. 

of the Winds 180. 
Cayuga, N. Y. 201. 
Cayuga Lake 203, 207. 
Cayuta Lake 212. 
Cazenovia Lake 168. 
Cedarmere. N. Y. 49. 
Cedar Rapids 199. 
Cedarville, N. J. 292- 
CentralSquare, N. Y.217. 
Centreville, Md. 392. 



INDEX. 



455 



Cha(.UrsFord,Pa. 338. 
Chaiu Lakes 135. 
Chambly, Can. 121. 
Chameleoa Falls 310. 
Champlain, N. Y. 126. 
Champlain, Lake 110. 
Cliambersbnrg, Pa. 376- 
Chapel Pond 136, 143. 
Chappaqua, N. Y. 59, 68. 
Charlestown, Md. 388. 
Charlcstown, W. Va. 410. 
Charlotte, N. Y. 174, 191. 
Chateaugay, Can. 199. 
Chateaugay Lakes 127. 
Chateaugay Woods 126. 
Chatham 4 Corners 61, 88. 
Chats Lake, Can. 132. 
Chaumout, N. Y. 160. 
Chaumont Bay 160. 
Chautauqua Lake 237, 361 
Chazy Lake 120, 127. 
Cheat River Valley, W. Va 

413. 
Cherry Valley, N. Y. 327. 
Cherry Valley, Pa. 244. 
Chester, N. J. 241. 
Chester, N. Y. 222. 
Chester, Pa. 386. 
Chestertown, Md. 392. 
Chestertown, N. Y. 134. 
Chestnut Hill 284, 285. 
Chimney Id. 197- 
Chimney Point 114. 
Chimney Point Gulf 1-56. 
Chippewa, Can. 184. 
Chittcnango, N. Y, 168. 
Clarkesboro' , N. Y. 161. 
Clarksburg, W. Va. 414. 
Clarkesville. N. Y 329. 
Claverack, N. Y. 83. 
Claysville, W. Va. 414. 
Clayton, N. Y. 159, 194. 
Clearfield, Pa. 348. 
Clear Pond, N. Y. 136. 
Clermont, N Y 82. 
Cleveland, N. Y. 217. 
Clifford Falls, N. Y. 142. 
Cliftonlleights, N.Y. 46. 
Clifton Iron Mines 160. 
Clifton Springs, N. Y. 202. 
Clinton, N. Y. 216. 
Clinton Prison 120. 
Closter, N. J. 220. 
Clyde, N. Y. 170. 
Coalport, Pa. 310. 
Coatesville, Pa. 837, 340. 
Cobble Hill, N. Y. 141. 
Cobleskiil, N. Y. 326. 
Cobourg, Can. 191. 
Cochccton, N. Y. 224. 
Codorus A'alley, Pa. 378. 
Cohoes, N. Y. 93. 
Colchester, N. Y. 215. 



Golden , Lake 138. [Cynthia Island 184. 

Cold Spring, N. Y. 50, 75. Damascus, Pa. 224. 



Cold Spring, N. J. 297 
College Point, N. Y. 56. 
Colliers, N. Y. 323. 
Collins' Beach , Del. 392. 
Colton.N. Y. 148. 
Columbia, Pa. 377, 3-37 
Columbia Springs, N. Y. 8.^. 
Communipaw, N. J. 38, 

249. 
Como, Can. 133. 
Conesus Lake, N. Y. 229. 
Coney Island, N. Y. 44. 
Conneaut Lake, Pa. 238. 
Conneautville, Pa. 332. 
Connellsville, Pa. 364. 
Conshohocken, Pa. 331. 
Contmental Village, N. Y 

Constantia, N. Y. 217. 
Constitution Id., N. Y. 75. 
Cooperstown, N. Y. 323. 
Copake, N Y. 60. 
Copenhagen, N. Y. 157. 
Coplay, Pa. 306, 320. 
Corey's, N. Y. 149. 
Cornell University 205. 
Corning, N. Y. 228. 
Cornwall, Can. 198. 
Cornwall, N. Y. 76, 221. 
Cornwall Ore Banks 253. 
Corry,Pa. 330,237, 369. 
Cortland, N. Y. 248. 
Cossayuna Lake 103. 
Coteau du Lac 199. 
Cove, the 345. 
Covert, N. Y. 207. 
Cow Rock, Pa. 334. 
Cox's, N. Y. 13S, 147. 
Coxsackie, N. Y. 84. 
Cozzens' Hotel 72. 
Cranberry Lake 149, 160. 
CraneMt.,N. Y. 134. 
Crawford Junction 215. 
Cresson Springs, Pa. 350. 
Crisfield, Md.'394. 
Croghan, N. Y. 157. 
Crom Elbow, N. Y. 80. 
Cro' Nest, N. Y. 75. 
Crosby side, N. Y. 107. 
Croton Aqueduct 69. 



jDannemora, N. Y. 120. 
Dansville, N. Y. 230. 
Danube, N. Y. 165. 
Danville, Pa. 333, 372. 
Darlington, Can. 191. 
Dauphin, Pa. 334. 
Dayton, N. Y. 231. 
Deal, N. J. 290. 
Dean's Corners 81, 216. 
Deckertown, N. J. 215. 
Deer Park Hotel, Md 413. 
De Kalb Junction 160. 
Delano, Pa. 311. 
Delaware, N. J. 242. 
Delaware City, Del. 392. 
Delaware Valley 223, 245. 
Delaware Water Gap 242. 
Delhi, N. Y. 215. 
Delmar, Del., Md. 394. 
Denvllle, N. J. 240. 
Deposit, N. Y. 225. 
Derry, Pa. 254. 
Devil's Dance Chamber 78. 
Diameter Rock 111. 
Diamond Island 107. 
Dillsburg, Pa. 374. 
Dingman's Ferry 245. 
Dionondahowa Falls 101. 
Dix Peak 133, 137 
Dobbs' Ferry, N. Y. 64. 
Doe Gully Tunnel 411. 
Dome Island 108 
Doubling Gap Springs 375. 
Douglas, Pa. 332. 
Dover, Del. 893. 
Dover, N. J. 241. 
Dover Plains, N. Y. 60. 
Downington, Pa. 331, 340. 
Doylesto^vn, Pa. 301. 
Drakesville, Pa. 241. 
Dresden, N. Y. 108, 213. 
Driftwood, Pa. 369. 
Drowned Lands 111. 
Drummondville, Can. 184. 
Dryden, N. Y. 319. 
Duncannon, Pa. 345. 
Duncan's Id., Pa. 345. 
Dunderberg, the 70. 
Dunkirk, N.Y. 236,360. 
Dunmore, Pa. 246. 



Croton Point i 
Crown Point, N. Y. 114, 136. Eagle Bay, N. Y. 151. 
Cruger's, N. Y. 69. jEagle Bridge, N. Y. loa 

Cruger'3 Island 82. Eagle Lake 152. 

Crystal Lake, Pa 322. Earleville, N. Y. 216. 

Crystal Springs N. Y. 383. jEaston, Md. 892. 
Cuba, N. Y. 231. jEaston, Pa. 251. 

Cuba Summit 230. !E. Bloomfield, N. Y. 2C 

Cumberland, Md. 365, 412. JE. Cliff 1.54. 
Cunningham Castle 66. lE. Hampton, N. Y. 53. 
Curtain Cascade 211. lE. Millstone 258, 298. 



456 



INDEX. 



Eaton, Pa. 316. 
Ebensburg, Pa. 351. 
Economy, Pa. 361. 
Edge Hill, Pa. 300. 
Edgepelick, N. J. 292. 
Eilinboro', Pa. 370. 
Eilmuud Ponds 144 
Egg Harbor City 294. 
EJgiu Spring, Vt. 102. 
Eliaibeth, N. J. 256, 249. 
Klizabethport, N. J . 249. 
Elizabcthtown 136, 141. 
Elizabcthtown, W. Va. 414. 
Elk Ridge, .Md. 415. 
E.ktou, Md. 388. 
Ellciivilk', N. Y. 215. 
Ellorslic, N. Y. 81. 
Ellicott City, Md. 406. 
EUisburgh, NY. 159. 
Elmer, N.J. 296. 
Elmira, N. Y 227,383. 
Elysville, Md 407. 
Eniau.-', Pa. 253 
Emporium, Pa. 369, 372. 
Enfield Glen, N. Y. 206. 
Englcwood, N. J. 63,220. 
Ephrata, Pa, 336. 
Equinnnk, Pa. 224. 
Erie, Pa. 370, 237, 362. 
Erie Canal 236. 
Espy, Pa. 372. 
Essex, N. Y. 115. 
Evansburg, Pa. 238. 

Factorj-ville, Pa. 247. 
Fairfax Seminary, Va. 449. 
Fairhaven, N. Y^. 319. 
Fairmont, W. Va. 414. 
Fairmount Park 280. 
Fairport, N. Y. 171. 
Fairvicw, Pa. 358. 
Falling Waters, Md. 377. 
Fallsburgh, N. Y. 215. 
Falls, Bash Bish 60. 

Bastion 92. 

Beaver Meadow 143. 

Becde-s 143. 

Big 141. 

Birmingham 118. 

Black Chasm 93. 

Bushkill 245. 

Buttermilk 72, 151, 244. 

Canasernsra 168. 

Cauterski'll 91. 

Chameleon 310. 

Chaudiere 131. 

Clifford 142. 

Dionondahowa 101. 

Eagle Cliff 211. 

Empire 212. 

Flume 205. 

Forest 204 

Genesee 174. 



Falls, Haines' 92. 

Hector 213. 

High 154, 157. 

Huirs 142. 

Ithaca 204. 

King's 157. 

Lcatherstocking 324. 

Marshall 244. 

Mcli^ingah 78. 

Mini.->ink 310. 

Minnehaha 209. 

Moiigaup 224. 

Niagara 177. 

Onoko 310. 

Passaic 220 

Piercefitld 148. 

Pluto 210. 

Portage 232. 

Pro.^pict 154. 

Pulpit 206. 

Rainbow 143, 210. 

Rideau 132. 

Russell 143. 

Sawkill 224. 

Sherman 154. 

Split Rock 136, 142. 

Sutherland 102. 

Taughkannock 206. 

Tckaharawa 327. 

Trenton 153 

Triphammer 205. 
Fanwood, N. .1 250. 
Farmingdale 288, 291. 
Far Rockaway 47. 
Fayette Springs, Pa. 364. 
Felton , Del. 393. 
Fenton's Inn 137 
Fine, N. Y. 158, 160. 
Fire Island 47. 
Fisher's Island 54. 
Fishkill, N. Y. 78. 
Flagstaff Peak 310. 
Flemington, N. J.298. 
Flume Falls, N. Y. 205. 
Flushing, N. Y. 55. 
Fluvanna, N. Y. 237. 
Folingsby's Pond 150. 
Fonda, N. Y. 163. 
Font Hill, N. Y. 64. 
Fordham, N. Y. 57. 
Forest Falls 204. 
Forked Lake 151. 
Fort Ann, N. Y 101. 

Columbus 15. 

Covington 198. 

Delaware 392. 

Edward, N. Y. 101. 

Frederick, Md. 410. 

George, Can. 187. 

George, N. Y. 105. 

Hamilton, N. Y. 44, 46. 

Henry, Can. 192. 

Lafayette, N Y. 46. 



Fort Massasauga, Can. 187. 

Mifflin, Pa. 286. 

Miller, N Y. 101. 

Niagara, N. Y. 187. 

Ontario. N. Y. 218. 

Plain, N. Y. 164. 

Putnam 74. 

Richmond, N. Y. 46. 

Ticonderoga 110, 111, 13G. 

Tompkins, N Y. 46. 

Washington, 27, 300. 

Washington, Md. 

Whipple, Ya.448. 

William Henry 105. 
Fourteen-lWile Island 108. 
Fourth Lake 156. 
Frankford, Pa. 286. 
Frankfort Sjjrings 362. • 
Franklin, Pa. 358. 
Franklin Falls 138. 
Franklin Furnace 215. 
Frederick, Md. 407. 
Fredonia,N. Y. 231. 
Freehold, N.. I. 288. 
Frcemansburg, Pa. 252. 
Frcevjlle, 216, 319. 
Frenchman's Island 217. 
Frenchtown, N. J. 299. 
Fricdensville, Pa. 303. 
Front Royal, Va. 410. 
Frostburg, Md. 412. 
Fruitland, N. J. 292. 
Fulton Lakes 156, 152, 

Gainesville, N. Y. 233. 
Galilee, Pa. 224 
Galitzin, Pa. 350. 
Gallopes Rapids 197. 
Gananoque, Can. 194. 
Ganouskie Bay 108. 
Gap, Pa. 340. 
Garden Id , Can 192. 
Gardiner's Id., N. Y. 55. 
Garoga Lakes 164. 
Garrison's 75. 
Gates, N. Y. 175. 
Gavsport, Pa 350. 
Genesee, N. Y. 230. 
Genesee Falls, N. Y. 174. 
Gene.«eo, N. Y. 229. 
Geneva, N. Y. 202, 213. 
Georgetown, Del. 393. 
Georgetown, D. C 446. 
Germantown, Pa. 285- 
Gettysburg, Pa. 379, 376. 
Ghent, N. Y. 61 
Giant of the Valley 136, 141. 
Gilead Lake, N. Y. 60. 
Gilesville, Pa 231. 
Girard Manor, Pa. 335. 
Glades, the Maryland 412. 
Gla.ssboro', N.J. 29-3. 
I Glen Cathedral 209. 



INDEX. 



457 



Glen Cove, N. Y. 60. 

Excelsior 212. 

Havana 212. 

Haven 200, 248, 319. 

Montour 212. 

Oiioko, Pa. 310. 

^Vatkins 208. 
Glendon, Pa. 252. 
Gl.-ns Falls, N. Y. 103. 
Gk-nville, N. Y. 162. 
Gl.-ucester, N. J. 295. 
Oloversville, N. Y. 163. 
Guadenhutten, Pa. 307. 
Goat Island, N. Y. 179. 
(ioige, Ithaca 204. 
Goshen, N. Y. 222. 
(Joiiverueur, N. Y. 160. 
Governor's Island 15- 
Grafton, W. Va. 413. 
Grand Portage, Can. 132. 
Grassy Point, N. Y. 69. 
Gravesend, N. Y, 44. 
(.h-av"s Ferry, Pa. 386. 
Great Bend 225, 247. 
Great Meadows, Pa. 365. 
Great South Bay 47. 
Great Valley 331, 337, 339 
Greece City, Pa. 358. 
Greenbush,N. Y. 87. 
Greencastle, Pa. 377. 
Gnenfield, N. Y. laS. 
Given Lakes 168. 
Greeiiport, N. Y. 54. 
Green Ridge, Pa. 321. 
Greensburg, Pa. 362. 
Greenville, Pa. 238. 
Greenwich, N. J. 292. 
Gnensvich,N. Y. 103. 
Green ^vood Lake 222, 214 
Grenadier Island 194. 
GreiiviUe 132. 
Greyoourt, N. Y. 222. 
Gull Islands 54. 
Gunpowder River 389. 
Guvuiard, N. Y. 223. 
Gwynedd, Pa. 300. 

Hackensack, N. J. 220. 
Hackettstown, N. J. 242. 
Haddonfield, N.J. 294 
Hadley, N. Y. 1.33. 
n i-erstown, Md. 377, 407 
Ila-ue, N. Y. 109. 
Ilaiucs Falls 92. 
Hamburg, Pa. 334. 
Hamilton, N. Y. 216. 
Hammondsport 229, 383. 
Hammonton, N. J. 294. 
Hancock 225. 
Hannah's Hill 324. 
Hanover, Md. 415. 
Hanover, Pa. 378. 
Harbor Hill, N. Y. 50. 



Harlem, N. Y. 32, 37. 
Harper's Ferry, W. Va. 408. 
Harrisburg. Pa. 342, 254. 
Harrisonburg, Va. 410. 
Harrisville, N. Y. 158. 
Hart's Island 37. 
Harvey '.-< Lake, Pa. 313. 
Harwood, Can. 192. 
Hastings, N. Y. 64. 
Hatboro', Pa. 300. 
Havana Glen, N. Y. 211. 
Haverford College 339. 
Haverstraw, N. Y. 69 
Havre de Grace Md. 389. 
Hazleton, Pa. 311, 367. 
Hecla 335. 

Hector Falls 212, 213. 
Helderberg Mts. 83, 329. 
Hellertown, Pa. 301. 
Hell Gate 37. 
Hempstead 47, 49. 
Hempstead Bay 47. 
Henderson, N. Y. 159. 
Henderson, Lake 137. 
Herkimer, N. Y. 165. 
Herndoa, Pa. 333. 
Hestonville, Pa, 339. 
Hexenkopf, the 299. 
High Banks of the Genesee 

2a3. 
High Bridge, N. J. 250. 
HighBridge, N. Y. 27, 37. 
High Falls 154, 157. 
Highgate Springs, Vt. 102. 
Highland Mills 221. 
Highlands, the 71. 
Highlands of Navesink 291. 
High Peak 93. 
Hightstown, N. J. 288. 
Hillsdale, N. Y. 60 
Hobokeu, N. J. 38, 63. 
Hofifman's Ferry 162. 
Hogansburgh, N. Y. 199. 
Hokendauqua 306. 
Holland 372. 
HoUey, N. Y. 175. 
Hollidaysburg, Pa. 349. 
Holme.<burg261,286. 
Homer, N. Y. 248. 
Home wood. Pa. 362. 
Honeove Falls 203. 
Honesdale, Pa. 224, 321. 
Hoosac Tunnel 103. 
Hoosic Falls 103. 
Hopatcong, Lake 241. 
Hopewell. N. J. 298. 
Hornellsville, N. Y. 230. 
Horse-shoe Bend 350. 
Howe's Cave 328. 
Hubbardton, Vt. 102. 
Hudson, N. Y. S3. 
Hudson River 62. 
Hull's Falls 142. 



Hummelstown, Pa. 254. 
Hunter, N. Y. 92. 
Hunter's Home 139, 
Hunter's Pass 137, 143. 
Huntingdon, Pa. 347. 
Huntingdon Waim Springs 

347. 
Huntington, N. Y. 50. 
Hurricane Peak 142. 
Hyde Park 80. 
Hydesville, N. Y. 171. 
Hydeville, Vt. 102. 

Idlewild 76. 
Ilchester, Md. 406. 
Ilion, N. Y. 165. 
Indiana, Pa. 352. 
Indian Castle, N. Y. 165. 
Indian Lake 135. 
Indian Point 197. 
lona Island, N. Y. 72. 
Iron Hills, Del. 387. 
Iron ton, Pa. 306. 
Irvineton, Pa. 359, 369. 
Island, Amherst 193. 

Barren 45. 

Bath 179. 

Beach 291. 

Blackwell's 36. 

Carleton 193. 

Chimney 197. 

Coney 44 

Constitution 75. 

Diamond 107. 

Dome 108. 

Fire 47. 

Fisher's 54. 

Fourteen-Mile 107. 

Gardiner's 55. 

Goat 179. 

Governor's 15. 

Grand 182. 

Grenadier 194. 

Gull 54. 

Hart's 37. 

lona 72. 

Long, Can. 183. 

Long, N. Y. 49. 

Luna 180. 

Navy 181. 

Nuns' 199. 

Petrea 59. 

Plum 54. 

Pollopell's 76. 

Randall's 37. 

Recluse 108. 

Shelter 54. 

Staten 45. 

Thousand 193. 

Three Sisters 181. 

Ward's 37. 

Wolfe 193. 
Isle Perrot, Can. 199. 



458 



Isola Bella 135. 
lElip, N. Y. 48, 51. 
IthJK-a, N. Y. 204, 318. 
Ithaca Gorge 204. 

Jamaica, N. Y. 47, 49. 
Jamc.«burg, N. J. 258, 288. 
James Run, Pa. 310. 
Jamestown, N Y. 237. 
Jay, N. Y. 140. 
Jericho, N. Y. 50. 
Jerome Park 57. 
Jersey City 38. 
Jersey Shore, Pa. 368. 
Jessup's Landing 134. 
Jes.sup's Little Falls 133. 
John Brown Tnict 155. 
Johnsburgh, N. Y. 134. 
Johnson's 150. 
Johnstown, N. Y. 1G3. 
Johnstown, Pa. 351. 
Jordan, N. Y. 170. 
Juniata Valley 345. 

Kane, Pa. 369. 
Katonah, N. Y. 59. 
Kayaderosseras Valley, N.Y 

133. 
Keanievsville, W. Va. 409. 
Keedvsville, Md. 407. 
Keene, N. Y. 142. 
Keene Vallev 138, 140, 142. 
Keeseville 118, 13G, 140. 
Kcnnett Square, Pa. 385. 
Kensiro. N. Y. 58. 
Kensington, Pa. 261, 279. 
Kenwood, N. Y. 85. 
Keuka Lake 383. 
Kinderhook, N. Y. 84. 
King's {"alls 157. 
Kingston, Can. 158, 160, 

192. 
Kingston, N. J. 258. 
Kingston, N. Y. 81,222. 
Kingston, Pa. 373. 
Kingwood Tunnel 413. 
Kinkora.N. J.293. 
Kisco, Mt. 59. 
Kishacoquillas Valley 346. 
Kiskatom, N. Y. 91. 
KittJining, Pa. 358. 
Kutztown, Pa. 253. 

Labrador Pond 216. 
Lackawaxen, Pa. 224. 
Lafayette, N. Y. 248. 
Lake, Albany 157. 

Avalanche 138. 

Bald 191. 

Beach's 152. 

Beaver 157. 

Big Moose 156. 

Black 195. 



INDEX. 



Lake, Blue Mt. 135, 152. 
Bonaparte 158. 
Brant 134. 
Brantingham 156. 
Budd.s 241. 
Canandaigua 203. 
Cauterskill 91. 
Cayuga 203. 207. 
Cazenovia 168. 
Chain 110, 135. 
Chats 132. 
Chautauqua 237. 
Chazy 120. 
Colden 138. 
Couesus 229 
Conneaut 238. 
Cossayuna 103. 
Cranberry 149, 160. 
Croton 69. 
Crystal, N.Y. 157. 
Crystal, P:i. 322. 
Dunniore 102. 
Eagle 152. 
Fonda 152. 
Forked 1-51. 
Fulton 156. 
Garoga 164. 
George 105. 
Gilead 60. 
Green 168. 
Greenwood 222, 214. 
Harris 135. 
Harvey's 313. 
Henderson 13". 
Hopatcong 241. 
Indian 135. 
Keuka 383. 
Lewey's 164. 
Little Tupper 149. 
Long 150. 
Lovely 99. 
Luzt-rne 134. 
Mahopac 59. 
Marmora 192. 
Meacham 127, 140. 
Mohegan 60. 
Mohonk 222. 
Mud 149. 
Nick's 155. 
Oneida 217. 
OnondagH 170, 248. 
Ontario 187. 
Oscawana 60, 75. 
Osceola 60. 
Owasco 201. 
Paradox 136. 
Peach 60. 
Pi.-eco 155, 164. 
Placidl45, 139, 141. 
Pleasant, N. Y. 155, 162 

163. 
Ragged 127. 
Rainbow 139, 140. 



Lake Raquette 151, 156, 157. 

Rice 192. 

Rich 135. 

Ro<kland 68. 

Ronkonkoma 51. 

Round 146, 164, 94. 

St Catharine 103. 

St. Francis 199. 

St. Louis 133, 199. 

St. Regis 139. 

Salmon 152. 

Salmon Trout 191. 

Sanford 137. 

Saranac 139, 145,146. 

Saratoga 99. 

Schroon 134. 

Schuyler 248. . 

Scugog 191. • 

Seneca 212, 202, 208. 

Scnccawana 241. 

Shedd 152. 

Silver 149, 233. 

Simcoe 191. 

Sinnipink 72. 

Skaneatelcs 200. 

Smith's 157. 

Sodom 168. 

Sunday 157. 

Transparent 155. 

Tupper 148. 

Two Mts. 133. 

U tow ana 152. 

Utsyanthia 329. 

Waccabuc 60. 

Woodhull 156. 
Lakefield 191. 
Lakeland, N. Y. 51. 
Lakeville, N. Y. 221. 
Lambertville 250, 298. 
Lancaster, Can. 199. 
Lancasti'r, Pa. 341, 377. 
Laudisville 337. 
Lan-singburgh 103. 
La Tourctte House 249. 
Latrobe, Pa. 352. 
Laubach's, Pa. 306, 320. 
Laurel, Del. 394. 
Laurel, Md. 418. 
Laurel Hill, Pa. 351. 
Laurel Run. Pa. 321. 
Laurelton Hall 50. 
Liiwrenceville 353. 
Lazaretto, the 386. 
Lebanon, Pa. 253. 
Lebanon Springs 61. 
Lecd'sPoint, N. J.294. 
Lehighton, Pa. 307- 
Lehigh University 303. 
Lehigh AVater Gap 306,320 
Leicester Junction 102, 111 
■ Leonia, N. J. 220. 
iLe Ray, N. Y. 160. 
JLeRoy, N. Y. 203. 



INDEX. 



459 



Lewes, Del. 893. 

Lcwey Lake lt)4. 

Lewisburg, Pa. 367. 

l.t..viston,N. Y. 187. 

!,,■ .istown, Pa. 346. 

Lihirtv, N. Y. 215. 

Lick Brook 20G. 

fii^onier Valley 3o2. 

Liiua, N. Y. 229. 

Li' rolason, N. Y. 128. 

i.iir.vood, Pa. 387. 

I,i i^ Pa. 337. 

Little Falls, N. J. 214. 

Little Falls, N Y. 1(55. 

Little Forked Lake 151. 

Little Lake .384. 

Little Tupper Lake, N. Y. 

149, 1.30, 151. 
Little VaUey 231. 
Little York Lakes 248. 
Llewellyn Park 239. 
Llovd\s Neck, N. Y. 50. 
Lock Haven, Pa. 349, 368. 
Lockport, N. Y. 176. 
Lock port, Pa. 352. 
Li.Mist Valley 50. 
Lor list Mt., Pa. 335. 
L...li, N. J. 220. 
Lo-;:urs Spring 346. 
Lonesome Pond 139. 
Lou,M$each,N. J.291. 
Lon^r nramli 289, 293. 
Ln.i- Island, Can. 183. 
IvL-LsIand, N. Y. 49. 
Loll^' Lake 150. 
L. ciu' Lake Village, 135, 150. 
LoiiLC Xarro.vs, Pa. 346. 
Lon- Pond Mt. 144. 
Lo:,- Sault Rapids 198. 
Loivtto, Pa 351. 
l-uai.sville, N. Y. 197. 
Lower St. Regis Lake 139. 
Lowville, N. Y. 153. 
Ludlo'.vville Falls 206. 
Luiuberland 224. 
Luna Island 180. 
Luzerne Lake 104, 134. 
Lyons, N. Y. 171. 
Lyons, Pa. 253. 
L>ons Fall.'', N. Y. 156. 
Lysander 248. 

Macauley Pond 1-39. 
McConnelsburg, Pa. 376. 
Macedon, N. Y. 171. 
McKeesport, Pa. 364. 
Mackenzie's Pond 139. 
Madison, N. J. 239. 
Magnolia, N. Y. 237. 
Mahanoy City 311. 
M iboning Valley 307. 
Mahopae, Lake 59. 
Mahwali 221. 



Mainville, Pa. 336. 
Maitland, Can. 195. 
Maiden, N. Y. 82. 
Malone, N. Y. 127. 
Mauiaroneek, N. Y. 58. 
Mammoth Mound 414. 
Manayunk, Pa. 330. 
Manchester, N. J. £91. 
Manchester, N. Y. 202. 
Manha.-^set Neck ,50. 
.Manheim, Pa. 337. 
Manliu.s, N. Y. 168. 
.Manuuiuskin 297. 
M.munka Chunk 242, 299. 
M.irathon, N. Y. 248. 
Marcus Hook 387. 
Marcy, N. Y. 153. 
Marion. N. J. 254. 
M.irlborough, N. Y. 79. 
Marmora L^xke 192. 
Marriottsville, Md. 407. 
Martin's 139. 
Martinsburg, W. Va. 377 

410. 
Massawepie Lake 148. 
>Iassena Springs 128, 198. 
Mattawa, Can. 132. 
Mattca.van Mts. 76, 78. 
Mattituck 54. 
.Mauch Chunk 307, 320. 
Maxwell's Point, Md. 339. 
.May, (^ape 297. 
May's Landinsr, N. J. 294. 
Mayville, N. Y. 237, 3G1. 
Mcacliam Like 127. . 
Meadville, Pa. 237. 
Mechanicsburg, Pa. 374. 
Medford, N. Y. 48. 
Medina, N. Y. 176 
.Mercer, Pa. 362. 
Morcersburg 376. 
Metal, Pa. 376. 
.Metuchen.N. J.257. 
Mexico 159. 

Middleburgh, N. Y. 329. 
Middlebury, Vc. 102. 
Middletown, Del. 392. 
MiddletownN. Y. 214, 223. 
Midd!eto\vn, Pa. 342. 
Middletown, Vt. 103. 
Miffliutown, Pa. 346. 
Milan, Pa. 818. 
Milford, Del. 393. 
Milford, N .J. 2'.t9. 
Milford, Pa. 223, 245. 
Millersburg, Pa. 366. 
Millerton, N. Y. 60, 78. 
Millville, N. .T. 296. 
Alilrov, Pa. 346. 
Miltoii, N. Y. 179. 
Milton. Pa. 367. 
Aline Gap Bridge 335. 
Miueola, N. Y. 49. 



Mine Ridge 340. 
Minerva, N. Y. 134, 135. 
Miuisink, N. Y. 215. 
Minisink Falls 310. 
Miunequa Springs 383. 
Mitchell's Cave 164. 
Modoc Oil District 358. 
Mohegan Glen 324. 
Mohegan, Lake 60. 
Mohonk, Lake 222. 
Moira, N. Y. 128. 
Monocacy, Md. 407. 
Monroe, N. Y.221. 
Montauk Poitit 03. 
Mont Clair, 214, 239. 
Montezuma Marshes 170. 
Montgomery, N. Y. 2'.i2. 
-Montgomery Pa 367. 
Montgomery Place 82. 
Monticello, 215, 224. 
Montoursville 367. 
Montreal, Can. 121,200. 

Black Nunnery 123. 

Bonsecours Market 123. 

Christ Church Cathedi-al 
125. 

Court House 123. 

Gesa, Cnurch of the 124, 

Gray Nunnery 125. 

Lachine Rapids 120. 

McGill College 125. 

Notre Dame 123. 

St. Helen's Lsle 124. 

St. Patrick's 124. 

Trinity Church 124. 

Victoria Bridge 126. 

Victoria Square 123. 
Montrose, N. J. 239. 
Montrose, Pa. 316. 
Mooer's .Function 126. 
Moosehead 312. 
Moosehead Mt. 148. 
Moose Pond 151. 
Moose River 155. 
Moravia, N. Y. 201, 319. 
Moriah, N. Y. 115. 
Moriches, 48, 51. 
Mm-risania, N. Y. 57. 
Morrisburgh 197. 
Morrison's Cove 348, 350. 
.Morristown, N. .7. 240 
Morristown, N. Y. 159, 195. 
Morrisville, N. Y. 216. 
Morrisville, Pa. 261. 
Moscow, Pa. 246, 
Mott Haven 57. 
Moundsville, W. Va. 414. 
Mount Airy, Md. 407. 
Mount Alto, Pa. 376. 
Mount Carbon, Pa. 3-34. 
Mount Carmel, Pa. 311. 
Mount Holly, N.J. 293. 
Mount Holly Springs 375. 



460 



Mount Joy 342. 
^iouIlt Kisco, N. Y. 59. 
Moimt Morris 230. 
Mount Pleasant, Pa. 364. 
Mount St. Vincent 64. 
Mount Union, Pa. 347 
Mount Vernon, Va. 450. 
Mountain, ^Eolus 103. 

Ampersand 146. 

Antliony 133. 

Belreil 121. 

Black 1U8. 

Boreas Spires 137. 

Camels Hump 142. 

Defiance 112. 

Dix Peak 13G, 137. 

Elk, Md. 408. 

Equinox 103. 

c;i.int of the Valley 141. 

Independence 113. 

Mclutyre 137. 

Warcy 138, 144. 

Merino 83. 

Miu.>;i 243. 

Mitchell 291. 

Oranpre 239. 

Overlook 81. 

Oxvl-s He:id 151. 

Pharaoh 135. 

Pi.-^gah 30y 

Prospect 108. 

St. Regis 140. 

Schooley's 242. 

Seward 137. 

Storm King 76. 

Sugar Ijoaf 72. 

Tammany 243. 

Taurus 75. 

Tongue 108. 

Vision 324. 

Wallface 137. 
Mountains, Adirondack 137. 

Boquet 116, 136. 

Catortin, Md. 407. 

C'atskill 90. 

Ilelderberg 85, 329. 

Highlands 71- 

Kayaderosseras 134. 

Mattcawan 76. 

Ramapo 214. 221. 

Shawanguuk76,215,222 

West 151. 
Mud Lake 149. 
Mud Pond 137, 144. 
Muirkirk, Md. 418. 
Muncy, Pa. 367. 
Musconetcong, Mt. 251. 
Mu.'^ki-at Castle 325. 
Muskrat Lake, 132. 
Myerstown, Pa 253. 

Nanuet, N. Y. 220. 
Napeague Beach 53- 



INDEX. 



Naples.N.Y. 203,229. 
Narrows, the 46, 108. 
Narrows, Long 346. 
Narrows burg 224. 
Nash Lake 145. 
Natuml Bridge 158. 
Naumburgh, N. Y. 157. 
Navesink Highlands N. J 

291. 
Navy Island, 181. 
Nazareth, Pa. 303. 
Nesquehoning Valley 320. 
I Nevis, N. Y. 66. 
Newark, Del. 388. 
Newark, N. J. 239,254. 
Newark, N. Y. 171. 
New Baltimore 84. 
New Berlin 216 
New Brighton, N. Y. 45. 
New Brun.swick 257. 
Newburgh, N. Y. 76, 221. 
iNewca.-<tle, Del. 391. 
I New Ca^stle, Pa 362. 
Newcomb, N Y. 135, 150. 
New Dorp, NY. 46. 
New Durham, 219. 
Newfoundland, 215. 
New Hamburgh 79. 
New Haven, N. Y. 159. 
New Haven, Pa. 3»j4. 
New Paltz 80, 222. 
New Pond 142. 
Newport, Del. 387. 
Newport, Pa. 345- 
New Rochelle, N Y. 58. 
New Scotland 329. 
New Suffolk, 54 
Newton, N. J. 215. 
Newton Hamilton 347. 
Newville, Pa. 375. 
New Windsor 76, 221. 
New York City 5- 

Acad, of De.'ign 25 

All Souls, Church of 24. 

Aims-Houses 36 

Amusements, 7. 

Art Collections, 8. 

Astor Library, 21. 

Battery, 15. 

Bellevuo Hospital 36. 

Bible Hou.se 21. 

Blackweirs Id. 36. 

Boulevard 26. 

Bowery, the 18. 

Bowling Green 15. 

Carmansville 26 

Castle Garden 15- 

Cathedral, New 31. 

Catholic Protectory 37- 

Central Park 32. 
Belvedere 34. 
Harlem Lake 35. 
Lake 34. 



New York City. 
Central Park. 

Mall 33 

M'Gowan's Pass 85. 

Museum 33. 

Pond 33. 

Ramble 34. 

Reservoirs 35. 

Terrace 34. 
Charity Hospital SO. 
Churt^hes 9. 
City Hall 18. 
Colosseum 25. 
Columbia College 30. 
Cooper Institute 21. 
Court House 19. 
Custom House 17. 
liust River 35. 9 

Elev. Railway 10. 
Festivals 8. 
Fifth Avenue 28. 
Five Points 20. 
Fortifications 46. 
Fort AVashington 27. 
Fourth Ave. 24. 
Grace Church 23. 
Grand Central Depot 30. 
Greek Church 31. 
High Bridge 27. 
Iliiipodrome 7, 29. 
Hi.<torical Soc. 22. 
Hotels 5. 

House of Refuge 37. 
Inebriate Asylum 37. 
Institution for Deaf and 

Dumb 27. 
Jesuit College 28. 
Juvenile Asylum 27. 
Lenox Libmry 31. 
Lunatic Asylum 36. 
Miulison Square 25. 
Manhattan College 26. 
Metropolitan Museum of 

Art 23. 
Morgue 36. 
Nassau St. 18. 
New Post-Office 18. 
Normal College 32. 
Orphan Asylum 26. 
PcJiitentiary 36. 
Printing-IIouse Sq. 17. 
Quarantine 45. 
Reservoir 30. 
Roosevelt Hosp. 31. 
St. Albau's 31. 
St. George 24. 
St. Luke's Hosp 31. 
St. Stephen's 29. 
Sub-Treasury 16. 
Temple Emanuel 30. 
Tombs, the 19. 
Transfiguration Church 
29. 



1 



INDEX. 



461 



New York City. 

Trinity Church 16. 

Union Square 23. 

University 21. 

Wall St. 16. 

Ward's Island 37. 

Washington Market 17. 

Y. M. C. A. 25. 
Nia,!|ara, Can. 185, 187. 
Ni;vj:ara Falls 177, 197. 

American Fail 180. 

Battles 186. 

Bridal Veil 182. 

Burning Spring 183. 

Cave of the Winds 180. 

(_'entre FaUs 180. 

Ferry 182. 

(ioat Island 179. 

Horse-shoe Fall 183, 184. 

Luna Island 180. 

Lundy's Lane 184. 

Museum 183. 

New Susp. Bridge 182. 

Prospect Park 182. 

Queenston 185. 

Rapids 171). 

Suspension Bridge 184. 

Table Rock 183. 

Terrapin Tov.or 180. 

Three Sisters 181. 

Whirlpool Rapids 184. 
Nick's Lake 155. 
Ninevcli, N. Y. 322. 
Norristown, Pa. ^31. 
North Adams 103. 
North Branch, N. J. 2.50. 
North Creek, N. Y. 135. 
North-East, Md. 388. 
Northeast, Pa. 230. 
North Elba 137, 145- 
North Hector Point 213. 
North Lake 155. 
North Mt. 91. 
Northport, N. Y. 51. 
Northumberland 367, 372. 
North Wales, Pa. 301. 
Norwich, N. Y. 216. 
Nuits, N. Y. 66. 
Nunda, N. Y. 2.32. 
Nun's Island 199. 
Nyack, N. Y. 68, 220. 

Oakland, Md. 413. 

Oak Orchard Acid Springs 

N. Y. 176. 
Oak Point, N. Y. 195. 
Oatka Valley 2,33. 
Occoquan, Va. 451. 
Ocean Grove 290. 
Ocean port, N. .1. 290. 
Odenton, Md 419. 
Ogjdenshurgh.N. .1.215. 
Ogdonsburg. N. Y. 195. 



Ohio-Pile Falls 365. 
Oil City 238, 359. 
Oka, Can. 133. 
Olean, N. Y. 231. 
Olvphant, Pa. 321. 
Oneida, N. Y. 167, 217. 
Oneida Community 217. 
Oneida Lake 217. 
Oueonta, N. Y. 323. 
Onoko, Glen, Pa. 310. 
Onondaga Lake 170. 
Onondaga Reservation 248. 
Ontjirio, Fort 218. 
OnUirio, Lake 187. 
Opalescent River 138. 
Orange, N. J 239. 
Orelaud, Pa. 300. 
Orient Point 54. 
Orillia, Can. 191. 
Oscawana Lake 60, 75. 
Osceola, Pa. 348. 
Osceola, Lake 60. 
Osgood Pond 140. 
Oswegatchie River 157. 
Oswego, N. Y. 159,217,248. 
Oswego Falls 217. 
Otego, N. Y. 323. 
Otisco Lake 200, 248. 
Otisvillc, N. Y. 223. 
Otsego Lake 325. 
Ottawa, Can. 128. 

Cathedral 131. 

Chaudiere Falls 131. 

Departmental Buildings 
130. 

Dominion Lib. 130- 

Gray Nunnery 131. 

Parliament Buildings 129. 

Rideau Canal 131. 
Ottawa River 132 
Overbrook, Pa. 339. 
Overlook Mt. 81. 
Overslaugh, the 85. 
Ovid, N. Y. 207, 213. 
Owasco Lake 201. 
Owl's Head Mt. 1.51. 
Oxford, N. Y. 216. 
Oxford, Pa. 385. 
Oyster Bay, N. Y. 50. 

Packerton, Pa. 307. 
Piiint^d Post 230. 
Palatine Bridge 165. 
I'alonsville 92. 
Pali-ades 63, 220. 
i\almvra 171. 
Pamrapo, N. J. 249. 
Pantlicr Creek Valley 309. 
Panther Gorge 144. 
Paoli, Pa. 339. 
Paradox Lake 136. 
Paradox Pond 145. 
Parcipauy 240. 



Parkesburg, Pa. 340. 
Parkersburg, W. Va. 414. 
Parker's Landing 358. 
Parryville, Pa. 307. 
Passaic Falls 220. 
Patchogue, N. Y. 48. 
Paterson, N. J. 220, 240. 
Paulding Manor 66. 
Paul Smith's 139, 146. 
Pawlet, Vt 103. 
Pawling, N. Y. 60. 
Peach Lake 60 
Peach Orchard Glen 212. 
Peekskill, N. Y. 70. 
Pembroke, Can. 132, 192. 
Pcnn Haven 311, 321. 
Pennington, N. J. 298. 
Pennsburg, Pa. 331. 
Pennsbury Manor 261. 
Penn's Mt. 333. 
Penn Yan 213, 383. 
Penobscot, Pa. 321. 
Pequea Valley 341. 
Perkasie, Pa. 301. 
Perkiomen, Pa. 331. 
Perryville, Md. 385, 388. 
Perryville, N. Y. 168. 
Perry Warm Springs, Pa. 

375. 345. 
Perth Amboy 257, 46. 
I Peterborough 192. 
'Pctrea Island 59. 
Petroleum, W. Va. 414. 
Pharaoli Lake 135. 
Philadelphia, N. Y. 159. 
Philadelphia, Pa. 262. 
Acad, of Music 275. 
Acad, of Nat. Sciencea 

275. 
Alms-House 274. 
Apprentices' Lib. 268. 
Arch St. 268. 
Art Collections 203. 
Broad St 275. 
Carpenters' HaU 268. 
Cathedral 273. 
Chci^tnut St. 268. 
Christ Church 267. 
Custom House 268. 
Eastern Penitentiary 277. 
Fairmount Park 280, 330. 
Art Gallerv 281. 
Barren Hifl 284. 
Belmont 283. 
Centennial Exposition 

2S3. 
Falls of Schuylkill 284. 
George's Hill 283. 
Lansdowne 282. 
Lemon Hill 281. 
Monastery 284. 
Mt. Pleasant 283. 
Schuylkill Navy 281. 



4G2 



INDEX. 



Philadelphia, Pa. 

ii'airmount Park. 
Sedgeley 282. 
Solitude 282. 
Sweet Brier 282. 
Water ^Vorks 280. 
Wissahickon 284. 
Zoological Gardens 282. 

Franklin's Grave 267. 

Friends' Library 268. 

Friends' Meeting-House 
267. 

Girard College 277. 

Glenwood Cemetery 285. 

Historical Soc. 271. 

Hospital for Insane 274. 

Independence Hall 2G9. 

Jefferson Medical College 
272. 

Laurel Hill Cem. 284. 

Logau Square 273. 

London Coffee House 267. 
, Market St. 267. 

Masonic Temple 276. 

Mercantile Library 272. 

Mint 272. 

Mt. Vernon Cem. 285. 

Moyamcnsing 279. 

Naval Asylum 274. 

Navy Yard 279. 

Old Liberty Bell 270. 

Old Swedes' Church 279. 

Penn Cottage 267. 

Penn Square 275. 

Penn. Hospital 271. 

Phila. Library 270. 

Post-Offlce 269. 

St. Mark's 273. 

St. Peter's 268. 

St. Stephen's 272. 

Third St. 268. 

Treaty Elm 279. 

Union League 275. 

University 273. 

Washington Square 270. 

Woodland Cemetery 274. 
Philippi, W. Va. 413. 
Phillipsburg, N. J. 251, 

299. 
Phillip«burg, Pa. 348. 
Pbilmont, N. Y. 60. 
Phoenicia, N. Y. 81. 
Phoenixville, Pa. 331. 
Piedmont, Md. 412. 
Piercefield Falls 148. 
Piermont 65, 220. 
Pilgrim Port 171. 
Pine Bush 215. 
Pine Grove, Pa. 353. 
Pine Island 222. 
Pine Lake 164. 
Piseco Lake 155, 164. 
Pitch Off Mt. 144. 



Pithole City 359. 
Pittsburgh, Pa 353- 

Allegheny Arsenal 355. 

Cathedral 354. 

Court House 354. 

Duquesne Way 355. 

Inclined Planes 355. 

Mercantile Lib. 354. 

Municipal Hull 354. 

Poz^t-Office 354. 

S. Side Boroughs 355. 

Trinity Church 354. 

W. Penn. Hosp. 365. 

Western Routes 357. 
Pittston, Pa. 316. 
Placentia 80. 
Placid, Lake 145, 141. 
Plaiufield, N. J 250. 
Plattckill Clove 92. 
Plattsburgh 118, 138. 



Potsdam, N. Y. 128, 148, 

161. 
'Pottersville,N. Y. 134. 
jPottstown, Pa. 332. 
IPottsville, Pa. 834. 
jPoughkeepsie, N. Y. 79. 
iPoultney, Vt. 103. 
iPownal, Vt. 103. 
IPrattsvillc, N. Y. 92. 
iPrescott, Can. 195, 128. 
iPresque Isle, Pa. 371. 
i Preston Ponds 187. 
i Princeton, N. J. 258. 
iPrincipio, Md. 388. 

Prisoners' Isle 109. 

Prospect, N. Y. 154, 155. 

Prospect, Mt. 108. 

Prospect Point, N. Y. 223. 

Prospect Rock, Pa. 321, 313. 

Pula.^ki, N. Y. 159. 



Pleasant Lake 149, 155, 163. Pulpit Rocks, Pa. 347. 
Pleas:. nt Valley 142 I 



Plcasantville, N Y. 59. 
Pleasure Bay 290. 
Plunibley Pond 151. 
I'lum Island 54. 
Plymouth, Pa. 373. 
Pochung Mt. 215. 
Pocono Mt. 245. 
Pohatcong Mts. 251. 
Poiut-no-Point 69. 
Point of Rocks, Md. 407. 
Point Peter 223. 
Point Pleasant 288. 
Poke-a-Moonshinc 136. 
PollopelPs Island 76. 
Pompton Plains 214, 240. 
Pond Eddy 224. 
Pontiac 132. 



Quakake, Pa. 311,335. 
Quaker Street 329. 
Quaker town 301. 
Quarantine of N. Y. 45. 
Quecnston, Can. 185-8' 
Quogue 48, 52. 

Ragged Lake 127. 
Ragged Mt. 137. 
Rah way, N. .1. 257. 
Rainbow Falls 143, 210. 
RainboAV Lake 139, 140. 
Ralston, Pa 383. 
Ramapo Mts. 214, 221. 
Ramapo Valley 221. 
Riindall's Island 37. 
Rapide de Plat 197. 



Popacton Valley, N. Y. 215, Rapids, Cedar 199. 



225. 

Pope's Creek, Md. 419. 
Portage, N. Y. 232. 
Port Allegheny, Pa. 372. 
Port Byron, N. Y. 170. 
Port Carbon, Pa. 335. 
Port Chester, N. Y. 58. 
Port Clinton, Pa. 334. 



Gallopcs 197. 

Ijachine 199. 

Long Sault 198. 

Whirlpool 184. 
Raquette Lake 151, 156. 
Raquette Pond 149. 
Raquette River 147, 119. 
jllaritan, N. J. 150. 



Port Dalhousie, Can. 185, R^ivcn Hill 141 

188. ---...^- ..- n. 

Port Deposit, Md. 385. 
Port Henry, N. Y. 115. 
Port Hope, Can. 191. 
Port Jefferson N. Y. 51. 
Port Jei-vis, 223, 245. 
Port Kent, N. Y. 118,140. 
Port Ley den, N. Y. 156. 
Port Monmouth, N J. 291. 
Port N orris 292. 
Port Perry, Can. 191. 
Port Tobacco, Md 419. 
Potaeue Lake 221. 
Potash (Hill) 133. 



Reading, I'a. 832, 253. 
Recluse Island 108. 
RodBank, N. J.286, 290. 
Red Hook, N. Y. 82. 
Red Lion, Del. 392. 
Red Mills, N. Y. 197. 
Rehoboth Beach, Del. 393. 
Remsen, N. Y. 155. 
Renovo, Pa. 368. 
Rhinebeck, N. Y. 81. 
Rice Lake, Can. 192. 
Richfield Springs 326, 347. 
Rich Lake 135. 
Richland 159. 



INDEX. 



463 



Richmond, N. Y. 46. 
Kichviile, N. Y. 2Uo. 
Ridgetield Parle 220. 
Ridgway, Pa. 369. 
Ridley Park, Pa. 386. 
RiegelsviUe, Pa. 299. 
Rigaud, Can. 1;33. 
Riugoes, N. J. 298. 
Ringtown 335. 
Ring wood, N. J. 214. 
Riverhead, N. Y. 54. 
Riverside, N. Y. 134. 
Roaring Spring 350. 
Robesoiiia, Pa. 253. 
Rochester, N. Y. 171, 203, 
230. 

Charlotte 174. 

Gene.-^ee Falls 174. 

Mt. Hope Cemetery 173. 

Nurseries 172. 

Powers Buildings 172. 

Uniyersitv 173 

W. House of Refuge 173. 
Rochester, Pa. 362. 
Roc ka way 241. 
Rockaway Beach 47. 
Rock City, N. Y. 231. 
Rockdale, P.i. 3n(3. 
Rock Dunder 11(3. 
Rock-Euou Springs 410. 
Rockland, N. Y. 215. 
Rockland Lake 68. 
Rock Uegio 115- 
Rocky Hill, N.J. 258. 
Rogers's Slide 109. 
Rokeby 82. 
Rome 159, 167, 216. 
Rondout, N. Y. 81. 
Ronkonkoma Lake 51. 
Root's Inn 136, 142, 143, 

144. 
Roselle, N. J. 249. 
Roslyn, N. Y. 49. 
Round Island 150. 
Round Lake 146, 164, 94. 
Round Top 93, 379. 
Rouse's Point 120. 
Rum Hill 324. 
Rummertield, Pa. 317. 
Rupert, Vt. 103. 
Russell Falls 143. 
Rutherfurd Park 220. 
Rutland, Vt. 102. 
Rye Beach, N. Y. 58. 

Sabbath Day Point 109. 
Sackett's Harbor 158. 
Saegertosvn, Pa. 237. 
Sager's, Pa. 337. 
Sageville, N. Y. 135, 162. 
Sag Harbor, N. Y. 52. 
St. Albans, Vt 102. 
St. Anne, Can. 133. 



St. Athanasie, Can. 121. 
St Catherine's, Can. 185. 
St. Francis, Lake 199. 
St. George's, Del. 392. 
St. John's, Can. 121. 
St. Johnsiand, N. Y. 51. 
St. Johnville, N. Y. 105. 
St. Joseph, Pa. 316. 
St. Louis, Lake 199. 
St. Mai-y's, Pa. 3'j9. 
St. Michael's, Md. 392. 
St. Regis, N. Y. 198. 
St. Regis Lake 139. 
St. Regis Mt. 140. 
St. Stephen's College 82. 
Salamanca, N. Y. 231. 
Salem, N. d.296. 
Salem, N. Y. 103. 
Sa!em-on-Erie 3'jl. 
Salisbury, Md. 394. 
Salmon Lake 152. 
Salmon Trout Lake 191. 
Salt Springs, N. Y 169. 
Saltzburg, Pa. 352. 
Sandburgh, N. Y. 215. 
Sands' Point 50, 56- 
Sandy Hill, N. Y. 103. 
Sandy Hook 46, 289. 
Sandy Run 300. 
.■^anford Lake 137- 
Sangerville, N. Y. 164. 
Saranac Lakes 146. 
Saratoga Lake 99. 
Saratoga Springs 94. 

Columbian 97. 

Congress 96. 

Crystal 97. 

Empire 98. 

Eureka 98. 

Excelsior 98. 

Geyser 99. 

Glacier 99. 

Hamilton 97. 

Hathorn 97. 

High Rock 98. 

Pavilion 97. 

Putnam 97. 

Seltzer 97. 

Star 98. 

United States 97. 

Washington 97. 
Sargent Ponds 152. 
Saugerties, N. Y. 82. 
Savannah, N. Y. 170. 
Sawkill Glen 224. 
Savre 318. 
Sayville 48. 
Scarsdale, N. Y. 58. 
Schenectady, N. Y. 11] 

162. 
Schenevus, N. Y. 326. 
Schodack, N. Y. 85, 88. 
Schoharie, N. Y. 328. 



Schooley's Mt. 242. 
Schroon Lake 134, 109, 114, 
.Scliroon Lake Village 135. 
Schuyler Lake 248. 
Schuylerviile, N. Y. 100. 
Schuylkill Falls 284. 
Schuylkill Haven 334. 
Scipio, N. Y. 201. 
Scotfs 144, 145. 
Scriba, N. Y. 159. 
Scraaton, Pa. 246, 321. 
Scugog, Lake 191. 
Sea Girt, N J. 288. 
Seaford, Del. 393. 
Seaviile, N. J. 297. 
Secaucus, N. J. 220. 
Selinsgrove, Pa. 347, 366. 
Seilcrsvilie, Pa. 30l. 
Seneca Lake, 212, 202, 208. 
Seneca Falls, N. Y. 202. 
Seneca Point, N. Y. 203. 
Senecawana, Lake 241. 
Seven Mountains 346, 348. 
Seven Springs JRIt. House 

222. 
Seward,' Mt. 137. 
Shades of Death 307, 315. 
Shaker Village 61. 
Shannondale Springs 410. 
Shark River, N.J. 290. 
Sharon, Pa. 362. 
Sharon Springs 326. 
Sharpsburg, fa. 358. 
Shawaugunk Mts. 70, 215, 

222. 
Shawnee Hills 244. 
Shelburne Bay, Vt. 116. 
Shelby Centre 176. 
Shelter Island 64. 
Shenandoah, Pa. 311. 
Shenandoah Valley, Va. 410. 
Sherman Fall 154. 
Shickshinny, Pa. 373. 
Shinnecock Bay 52. 
Shippeusburg, Pa. 375. 
Shohola, Pa 224. 
Short Hills, N. J. 239. 
Sidney Plains 216, 322. 
Siegfried, Pa. 306, 320. 
Silver Lake 149, 233. 
Simcoe, Lake 191. 
Sing Sing, N. Y. 68. 
Sinking Spring 253. 
Siunipiuk, Lake 72. 
Sir John's Run 411. 
Skaueateles Lake, N. Y. 200. 
Sivy Top 222. 
Slatcford, N. J. 242. 
Slatington, Pa. 306. 
Sleeping Lion 325. 
■(leepy ifollow67, 91. 
Mnith's Lake 157. 
Smith's, Paul 139, 128. 



464 



INDEX, 



Smith's Valley 216. 
Smith town, N. Y 51. 
Smyrna, Del ^92. 
Snow Hill, Md. 394. 
Snow Shoe, Pa 3i8. 
Sodus, N. Y.218. 
Somerset, Pa. 3(35. 
Somers' Point, N. J. 294. 
Somerville 250, 298. 
S. Amboy 289. 
Southampton, N. Y. 52. 
South Bay, 111, 151. 
S. Danville, Pa. 336. 
Soutli Lake 155. 
South Mt.,Md. 409. 
South Mt.,N. Y. 91. 
Southold, M. Y.54. 
S. Orange, N J. 239. 
S. Oyster Bay 47. 
Spencerport, N. Y. 175. 
Spencer's Glen 206 
Spencer Sprinj^s 318. 
■Speouk,N. Y.52. 
Spesutia Church, Md. 389. 
Spirit Mt. 136. 
Spitfire Lake 147. 
Split lloik 115. 
Split Kock Falls 1.36, 142. 
Springiicld, N. J. 239. 
Spriuglicid, N. \'. 326. 
Springville,N. Y. 372. 
Sprint's, Acid, N. Y. 176. 

Alburgh, Vt. 120. 

Avon, N. Y. 2'i9. 

Ballston, N. Y. 94. 

Bedford, Pa. 347- 

Berkeley, W. Va. 411. 

Blossburg, Pa. 229. 

Brandywiue, Lei. 391. 

Burninp, Can. 183. 

Caledonia, Can. 132. 

Capper, W. Va. 410. 

Carlisle, Pa. 375 

Chappaqua, N. Y. .59. 

Cherry Valley, N. Y. 32' 

ChittenanftOjN. Y. 168. 

Chfton 202. 

Columbia, N. Y. 83. 

Cressou, Pa 350. 

Crystal, N. Y. 383. 

Deep Rock, N. Y. 218. 

Doubling Gap, Pa. 375. 

Elgin, Vt. 102. 

EphrataMt., Pa. 336. 

Fayette, Pa. 364. 

Fmnkfort, Pa. 362. 

Gettysburg, Pa. 379. 

Guvmard, N. Y. 223. 

Highgate 102. 

Huntingdon Warm 347- 

Lebanon, N. Y. 61. 

Litiz, Pa. 3.37. 

Massena 128, 198. 



pnngs, 

Middlctown, Vt. 103. 

Miuncqua, Pa. 383. 

Oak Orchard 176. 

Perry ^^ lu-m 375, 345- 

Richfield, N. Y. 247. 

Rock-Enon, W. Va. 410. 

St. Catherine's, Can. 186. 

Salt, N. Y. 169. 

Sand, Mass. 103. 

Schooley's Mt. 242. 

Shanuondale 410. 

Sharon, N. Y 326. 

Spencer, N. Y. 318. 

Vallonia, N. Y. 822. 

Vei-ona, N. Y. 167. 

Yellow, Pa. 332. 

York Sulphur 378. 
Spuyten Duyvil 63. 
Squan,]S. J. 288,291. 
Stiuits Ifcland 85. 
Standing Stone, Pa. 317. 
Stamford, N. Y. 81. 

tanhopc 241. 
Stanton, Del. 887. 
Starucca 322. 
Starucca Viaduct 225. 
State Dam, N. Y. 127. 
Statcn Ishaid 45. 
Stenimer's Run 389. 
Sterling, N. Y. 218. 
Sterling Pond 222. 
Steubeiiville, 0. 303. 
Steverispoint 322. 
itis.sing, N. Y. 78. 
5tone Arabia 164. 
Stonv Brook Glen 230. 
Stony Clove 92. 
Stony Creek, N. Y. 134. 
Stony Creek, Pa. 312. 
Stony Creek Ponds 149. 
Stony Point 69. 
Storm King 76. 
Strasburg, Pa 341. 
Strasburg, W. Va. 410. 
Stroudt^burg, Pa. 245. 
SufTcin,N. .J. 221. 
Sugar Loaf'Mt. 72. 
Summit, N. .1.239. 
Summit, N. Y 225 
Summit, Pa. 322, 834. 
Summit Hill, Pa. 309. 
Snmmitvillc 215 
Summit Water 138. 
Sunbury, Pa. .366. 
Sunday Lake 157. 
Sunnyside 66. 
Sunset Rock 92. 
Susquehanna, Pa. 225. 
Sutherland Falls 102. 
Swarthmore College 387. 
Swedesboro', N. .). 295. 
Sweeny Carry 147. 



Syossct, N. Y. 50. ^i 

Syracuse 108, 248. 

Taberg, N. Y. 159. 
Tahawus, 135, 137. 144. 
iTamaucnd, Pa. 320. 
Tauiaqua. 307,309,336. . 
Tappan, N. J. 65. 
Tappan Zee 65. 
Tarry town, N. Y. 66. 
Taughkanuock Falls 206. 
Taurus, Mt. 75. 
Tcnafly,N. J.220. 
Theresa, N^Y. 159,194. 
Thompson, Pa. 322. 
Thou.-and Is^lands 193. 
Three Sisters Ids. 181. 

'Jhnrman. N. Y. 104, f54. 

Ticonderoga, Fort, N. Y. IIC 

111,136. 

Tidiouie, Pa. 359. 
Tioga Point, Pa 227. 

Tip Top Summit 230. 

Tiiusviilc, Pa. 359. 

Tivoii, N. Y. 82. 

Tobyhanna, Pa. 246. 

Torn Mt. 221. 

Tomjpkin.<ville 45. 

Tom's River 291. 

Tonawanda, N. Y. 203. 

Tonawanda Reservation, N 
Y. 176. 

Toronto, Can. 187. 
Normal School 190. 
Ofgoode Hall 190. 
Queen's Park 189. 
St. .lames Cathedral 189. 
St. MichaePs PtO. 
Trinity College 190. 
University 188. 
Volunteers" Mon. 189. 

Torrens', Pa. 353. 

Tottenville, N. Y. 46. 

Towanda, Pa. 317. 

Trani^l)urent Lake 155. 

Treichler, Pa. 320. 

Trenton, N. J. 260. 

Trenton Falls, N. Y. 153. 

Tribes' Hill, N. Y. 162. 

Trout Pavilion 107. 

Trout Run, Pa. 383. 

Trov, N. Y. 88. 

Troy, Pa 314,883. 

Truxedo Lake 221. 

Truxton,N. 1^216. 

Tuckerton, N. J. 291. 

TuUy, N. Y. 248 

Tunkhannock, Pa. 316. 

Turncliff's Point 325. 

Tupper Lake 148. 

Turner's, N Y. 75,221. 

Tuscarora Mt. 345. 

Tuficarora Reserv. 187. 



INDEX. 



465 



I Tuscarora Valley 345- 
ru.sten,N. Y. 224. 
Eyre, N. Y. 202. 
ryroiie, PiL.i548. 

LUster, Pa. 318. 
rn.L.lilla, N. Y. 323. 
i:ii:lei-cliff75. 
rniouCity, Pa. 369. 
Union Springs, N. Y. 207. 
L'ni'intown, N. J. 257- 
L'liiontown, Pa. 364. 
Upper Lehigh, Pu. 321. 
i Upper Saranac Lake 147. 
Utica, N. Y. 21G, 166, lo2. 
Utsyantkia Lake 329. 

Valley, Bald Eagle 348. 

Cheat River 413 
: Kishacoquillas 346. 

Oatka 233 

Ilamapo 221. 

Shenandoah 410. 

of Wyoming 321, 814, 312. 
ValleyForge, Pa. 331. . 
Vallonia Springs 322. 
Vanderbilt's Landing 45. 
Vassar College 79. 
Vcrgennes, Vt. 102, 115. 
Vernon, N. Y. 167- 
Vernon Springs 167- 
■Verplanck's Point 69. 
Victor, N. Y. 203. 
Villa Nora, Pa. 339. 
Viueland 293, 292. 
Volcano, W. Va. 414. 
Vosburg, Pa. 317. 

Waccabuc I^ke 60. 
Waddington, N. Y. 197. 
Walnutport, Pa. 320. 
Walton, N. Y. 215, 225. 
Wanaque, N. J. 214. 
Ward's Island 37. 
Warren, Pa. 369. 
AVarrensburg, N. Y. 134. 
^V'arrior Ridge 347. 
AVarrior's Gap 312. 
Warsaw, N. Y. 233- 
"Warwick \V'oodland.'5 222. 
Washington, D. C 420. 
Agriculture, Department 

of 433. 
Army Medical Museum 

437. 
Arsenal 435. 
Botanical Gardens 431. 
Capitol 426. 
Bronze Doors 426, 429. 
Dome 427. 
House of Reps. 431. 
Library 427. 
rortico 426. 

20* 



Washington, D. C. 
Capitol. 

Rotunda 426. 
Senate 429. 
Statuary Hall 430. 
Supreme Court 428. 
Coast Sui-vey 431. 
Columbian Univ. 438. 
Congress 421. 
Congressional Cem. 425 
Corcoran Art Gallery 440. 
Gov't Priutiag-Office 424. 
Lafayette Square 440. 
Marine Barracks 425. 
Masonic Temple 437. 
Naval Observatory 443. 
Navy Yard 424. 
Ordnanc« Museum 442. 
Patent-Office 436. 
Post-Office 436 
President's House 439. 
St. Alov.sius 424. 
St. Dominic 435- 
St. John 440. 
Signal Office 442. 
Smithsonian lust. 432. 
State, Dep't of 438, 442. 
Statues. 
Columbus 426. 
Farragut 429. 
Franklin 429. 
Freedom 427. 
Hancock 429. 
Jackson 440. 
Jeiferson 430, 440. 
Lincoln 435 
Rawlins 443. 
Scott 4S8, 445. 
Washington 431, 443. 
Treasury Dep't 439. 
Wiir Dep"t 442. 
Washington Monument 

434. 
Y. M. C. A. 437. 
Washington, N. J. 220, 

242. 
Washington, Pa. 363. 
Washington's Crossing 298. 
Washington Junction 406. 
Washington's Masonic Cave 

410. 
Washington Viaduct 415. 
Wassaic, N. Y. 60. 
Watch Hill 48. 
Watcrford, N. Y. 94. 
Waterford, Pa. 369. 
Water Gap, Delaware 242. 
Lehigh 306. 320. 
Mainville 336. 
Waterloo, N. J. 215, 241. 
Waterloo, N. Y. 202. 
Watcrtown, N. Y. 158, 159. 
Watkins Glen 208, 383. 



Waterrliet, N. Y. 89 
Waverlev, N. J. 256. 
^V'averiy, N. Y. 227. 
VV^awayanda 215, 222. 
VV^aynesboTO', Pa. 376. 
U'ayuesburg, Pa. 340. 
WY^atherby 311. 
Weedsport, N. Y. 170. 
Weehawkeu, N. J. 63. 
Weissport, Pa. 307. 
Wellsboro', Pa. 229. 
Wenonah 296. 
\Y. Albany, N. Y. 162. 
W. Bloomfield 203- 
Westbury 50. 
West Chester, Pa. 340. 
Westfield, N. J. 250. 
Westfield, N. Y. 46. 
W. Pittstou, Pa. 373. 
West Point 72, 221. 
Westport, N. Y. 115, 141. 
W. Rush 203. 
W. Rutland, Vt. 102. 
W. Troy, N. Y. 89, 93. 
Westville, N. J.295. 
Wheeling, W. Ya. 363, 415. 
Whirlpool Rapids 184. 
Whiteface Mt. 140, 139. 
Whitehall lUl, 111. 
Whitehall, Pa. 306. 
Whitehaven 312, 321. 
Whitehouse, N. J . 250 
Whiting's, N. J. 292, 293. 
White Plains, N. Y. 58. 
White Spot, Pa. 333. 
Whitestoue, N. Y. 56. 
Wilcox, Pa. 369. 
Wildercliff81. 
Wild Rose Point 325. 
Wilkes-Barre 312, 321, 373. 
Wilkins Point 56. 
Williamsburg, Pa. 350. 
Williamsport, Md. 377. 
Williamsport, Pa. 367. 
^nUiams's Rock 104. 
Williamstown, Mass. 103. 
Williamstown 159. 
Willing, N. Y. 230. 
Wilmington, Del 390, 387. 
Wilmington, N. Y 140. 
\nimington Pass 141. 
Winchester, Va. 410. 
Windfall, the 148. 
Wind Gap, Pa. 303. 
Windham, N. Y. 92. 
Winfield 49. 

Winslow, N. J. 292, 294. 
Wolf Creek, N. Y. 1-34. 
Wolf Creek Glen 233. 
Wolf Island 193. 
Womelsdorf, Pa. 253. 
Woodbury, N.J. 295. 
Woodcliff Falls 230. 
DD 



466 



INDEX. 



Woodlawn Cemetery 57 
Woodsburgh, N. Y. 47. 
Wood!<ido, N. Y. 49. 
Woodville, N. Y. 203. 
Worcester, N. Y. 326. 
■VVrigbteville, Pa. 378. 



Wurtsboro',N. Y. 215. 
Wyalusing, Pa. 317. 
Wyoming, N. Y. 233. 
Wyoming, Valley of 314, 

312, 321. 
Wysauking, Pa. 317. 



Yaphank, N. Y. 51. 
Yatesville, N. Y. 164. 
j Yellow Springs, Pa. 332. 
Yonkers, N. Y. 64. 
York, Pa. 378,382. 
York Sulphur Springs 378. 



Index to Historical Allusions. 



Albany, N. Y. 87. 
Alburgh, Yt. 120. 
Allen town. Pa. 305. 
Annapolis, Md. 418. 
Anthracite Coal DiscoTery 

308. 
Arnold's Treason 67, 75. 

Baltimore, Md. 405. 
Battle of Autictum 409. 

Benniiigtou 103. 

Brandy svino oo8. 

Chippewa 186. 

Chrysler's Farm 198. 

Port Erie 236. 

Fort Mitlhn 286. 

Fort Montgomery 72. 

Port Stanwix 167. 

Fort Ticonderoga 112. 

Fort AVashiugton 27. 

Cermautown 285. 

Gettysburg 3^0. 

Long Island 30. 

Lundv's Lane 186. 

Monmouth 288. 

Paoli 339. 

Plattsburgh 119. 

Princeton 261. 

Queenston Heights 186. 

South Mountain 409. 

Stillwiter 100. 

Stone Arnbia 164. 

Trenton 261. 

White Plains 58. 
Berkeley Springs, West V. 

411. 
Bethlehem, Pa. 301,304. 
Binghamton,N. Y. 226. 
Braddock's Defeat 353. 
Buffalo, N. Y. 236. 
Burlington 117. 

Canandaigua 384. 
Cape May 297. 
Carlisle, Pa 375. 
Catskill Mts. 90. 
Caughnawaga, Can. 199. 
Chambei-sburg, Pa. 376. 
Chambly, Can. 121. 
Chester, Pa. 387. 



Chimney Island 197. ] Mason and Dixon's line 388. 

Cincinnati, Society of theiM'Gowan's Pass, N. Y. 35. 
78. iMontauk Indians 53. 



Crown Point, N. Y. 114. ] 

Delaware Valley 245. 
Duncan's Island, Pa. 345. 

Easthampton, N. Y. 53. 
Easton, Pa. 252. 
Elizabeth, N.J. 256. 
Elmira, N. Y. 228. 
EphraUi, Pa. 336. 
Erie, Pa. 371. 
Essex, N. Y. 115. 

Fort Leboeuf, Pa. 370. 
Fort Mifflin, Pa. 286. 
Fort Necessity, Pa. 365. 
Fort Schlosser, N. Y. 181. 
Fort Ti(onderoga,N.Y.112. 
Fort Venango, Pa. 359. 

Gardiner's Island 55. 
Geneva, N. Y. 214. 
Gettysburg, Pa. 380. 
Gnadenhutten, Pa 307. 

Harper's Ferry, W. Va. 408. 
Harrisburg Pa. 343. 
Hempstead, N. Y. 49. 
Horse-Shoe Falls, N. Y. 181. 
Hudson, N. Y. 84. 

Jamaica, N. Y. 49. 
Jersey City, N. J. 38. 
John Brown's Tract 155. 
Johnstown, Pa. 351. 

Kingston 81. 

Lake Champlain 110. 
Lake George 105 
Lancaster, Pa. 341. 
Lewes, Del. 393. 
Lloyd's Neck, N. Y. 50. 
Long Island, N. Y. 49. 
Luzerne Lake, N. Y. 134. 

Martinshurg, W. Va. 410. 



Montreal. Can. 122. 
Moravians, the 301, 30^ 
Morgan Affair, the 175. 
Mormons, the 171, 202. 
Morristown, N.J. 240. 
MountUoUy, N. J.293. 

Nazareth, Pa. 303. 
Newark. N. J. 256. 
Newburgh Plot, the 77. 
New Brunswick, N. J. 268. 
New York City 13. 

Odd Fellows 401. 
Ogdensburgh, N. Y. 196. 
Onondaga Indians, the 170, ' 

248. 
Oswego, N. Y. 218. 
Ottawa, Can. 129. 
Oyster Bay, N. Y. 50. 

Patriot War 181, 196. 
Peekskill, N. Y. 71. 
Pennsylvania Dutch, the i 

333 
PeunYan,N. Y. 384. 
jPcrth Amboy,N. J. 257. 
^Petroleum Development 360. 
Philadelphia 265. 
i Pittsburgh, Pa. 356. 
Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 80. 
Princeton College 258. 

Reading, Pa. 333. 
Red Bank, N. J. 287. 
Rochester, N. Y. 175. 
Rock Regio 116. 
Rome 167. 

Sabbath Day Pomt, N. Y. 

109. 
Sackett's Harbor, N Y. 158. 
Sag Harbor, N. Y. 52. 
St. Johns, Can. 121. 
St. Regis, N. Y. 198. 
Salem,N. J. 296. 
Saratoga 99. 



INDEX. 



467 



Schoclack, N. Y. 85. 
Schroon Lake, N. Y. 134. 
Scranton, Pa. 246. 
Seneca Lake 213. 
Shakers, the Gl. 
Shelter Island, N. Y. 54. 
Southampton, N. Y. 52. 
Springfield, N. J. 239. 
Stateu Island, N. Y. 45. 
Stony Point, N. Y. 69. 
Suu Inn 302. 



Swedish Colonies 386, 391. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 170. 

Tammany Ring 19. 
Tioga Point 318. 
Treaty Elm, Pa. 265, 279 
Tribes' Hill, N Y. 162. 
Troy, N. Y.90. 
Tuckerton, N. J. 291. 

Valcour Island, N. Y. 118. 



Valley Forge, Pa. 331, 266. 
Valley of Wyoming 314. 

West Point, N. Y, 72. 
West Virginia 414, 415. 
Whitehall, N. Y. 102. 
Wilkes-Barre, Pa. 313. 
Wihnington, Del. 391. 
Wyialasing, Pa. 317. 

Yonkers, N. Y. 64. 



Index to BiograpMcal Allusions. 



Armstrong, John 82. 
Audubon, John James 26. 
Bonaparte, Joseph 157, 288. 
Breck, Samuel 282. 
Brown, John 145. 
Buchanan, James 342, 376. 
Burr, Aaron 259, 63. 
Champlain, Samuel de 110. 
Clinton, De Witt 44. 
Cooper, James Fenimore 323. 
De Soto, Fernando 170. 
Drake, James Hodman 57. 
Edwards, Jonathan 259. 
Farragut, Admiral D. G. 57- 
Feuelon, Archbishop 193. 
Fulton, Robert 342, 83. 
Galitziu, Father 351. 
Giiard, Stephen 278. 
Greeley, Horace 59. 



Hale, Nathan 50. 
Hicks, Elias 50. 
Hudson, Henry 63. 
Jay, John 59. 
Johnsons, the 163. 
Kearny, Philip 256. 
Kidd, Capt. 55. 
Kosciuszko 74. 
Livingstons, the 82. 
Morris, Robert 281. 
Morrises, the 57. 
Morse, S. F. B. 80. 
Paine, Thomas 58. 
Peabody, George 400. 
Penn, John 266, 282. 
Penn, William 266. 
Philipses, the 67. 
Piquet, Abb6 196. 
St. Clair, Arthur 352. 



Seward, William Henry 201. 
Sherman, Rev. John 153. 
Smith, Joe 171. 
Steuben, Baron 78. 
Stewart, A. T. 29. 
Tammany 243. 
Taylor, Bayard 385. 
Van Buren, Martin 84. 
Van Cortlandts 69. 
Wadsworth, Gen. J. S. 230. 
Washington, George 451. 
Wayne, Anthony 340. 
West, Benjamin 387. 
Williams, Eleazer 199. 
Willis, Nathaniel P. 76. 
Wool, Gen. J. E. 77. 
Woolman, John 293. 
Worth, Gen. W. J. 84. 
Zinzendorf, Count 314. 



Index to Quotations. 



Bancroft, George 413. 

Bremer, Fredrika 117, 118. 

Bryant, William Culleu 323. 

Campbell, Thomas 314. 

Chateaubriand 71. 

Cheever, George Barrell 207. 

Cooper, James Fenimore 324, 325. 

Curtis, George William 63. 

Dickens, Charles 72, 178. 

Everett, Edward 85. 

Greenwood, Grace 211. 

Halleck, Fitz Greene 57. 

Hammond 146, 148, 150. 

Hennepin, Father 185. 

Howells, William Dean 180, 181, 182, 

184 
Hudson's Log-book 13, 64, 77, 85. 
Irving, Washington 63, 65, 66, 68, 70, 71, 

78, 323. 
Jeffersou, Thomas 408. 
Lincoln, Abraham 380. 
Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth 302. 



Lossing, Benson John 104, 113, 186, 331. 

Mather, Cotton 49, 52, 55. 

Moore, Tom 133, 283. 

Morris, George P. 76. 

Parkman, Francis 129. 

Penn, William 257. 

Percival, James Gates 212. 

Putnam, Israel 106. 

Richardson, A. D. 232. 

Seward, William Henry 201. 

Sigourney, Lydia H. H. 53. 

Silliman,"Prof. IfiS. 

Stedman, E. C 223, 224, 233. 

Stone, William L. 213, 246, 246, 313, 316, 

384. 
Taylor, Bayard 211, 385. 
Townsend, George Alfred 419. 
Washington, George, 77, 240, 331. 
Webster, Daniel 178, 323, 431. 
Whitefield, George 54. 
Willis, Nathaniel Parker 60, 153, 154, 155, 

215, 223, 325. 



468 



INDEX. 



Index to Railroads. 



Adirondack 133. 

Albany and Susquehanna 320, 322. 

Allegheny Valley 357. 

Allentown Line 249. 

Annapolis and Elk Ridge 416. 

Atlantic and Great Western 237. 

Bald Eagle Valley, 348. 

Baltimore and Ohio 406. 

Baltimore and Potomac 419. 

Belvidere 298. 

Buffalo, Corry and Pittsburgh 361. 

Butfaio, NY., and Pliiladelphia 371. 

Camden and Amboy 287. 

Camden and Atlantic 294. 

Catawissa 335. 

Cayuga Lake 203. 

Cazenovia and Canastota 168. 

CentralofN. J. 249. 

Central Vermont 102, 111. 

Char tiers 363. 

Chester VaUey 331, 340. 

Cleveland and Pittsburgh 362. 

Colebrookdale 332. 

Coopcrstown and SusquehannaValley 323. 

Corning, Cowanesque and Antrim 229. 

Cumberland Valley 373, 410. 

Cumberland and Pennsylvania 412. 

Danville, Hazleton and Wilkes-Barre 367. 

Delaware 390. 

Delaware, Lackawanna and Western 238. 

Dorchester and Delaware 393. 

Dunkirk, Allegheny Valley and Pittsburgh 

360. 
Dutchess and Columbia 78. 
Eastern Shore 394. 
East Pennsylvania 253. 
Ebensburg and Cresson 351. 
Erie 219. 

Erie and Pittsburgh 362. 
Flushing and North Side 55. 
Eonda, Johnsto\vn and Gloversville 165, 
Ereehold and Jamesburg 258, 288. 
Grand Trunk 121. 
Hackensack 220. 
Harlem 56. 
Harlem Extension 61. 
Heuipfield 363. 
Hollidaysburg349. 
Huntingdon and Broad Top 347. 
Indiana Branch 352. 
Ithaca and Athens 318. 
Junction and Bi'eakwater 393. 
Kent County 392. 
Lackawanna and Bloomsburg 372. 
Lake Ontai'io Shore 218. 
Lake Shore and Michigan Southern 236. 
Laurel Fork and Sand Hill 414. 
Lebanon Valley 253. 
Lebanon and Tremont 253 
Lehigh and Susquehanna 319. 
Lehigh VaUey 300. 






Lewistown 346. 
Loug Island 48. 
Mahauoy and Shamokin 366. 
Maryland and Delaware 392. 
Mauch Chunk and Summit Hill 309. 
Middleburgh and Schoharie 328. 
Morris and Essex 239. 
Montreal and Platts burgh 120. 
Mountain Link and Schuylkill Valley 335.' 
Nesquehoniug Valley 320. 
New Jersey Midland 214. 
New Jersey Southern 289. 
New Yoi'k and Canada 138. 
New York and Harlem 56. 
New York and Lake Mahopac 59. 
New York and New Haven 58. • 

New York and Oswego Midland 214. 
New York Central and Hudson River 62, 
161. 

New Route 170. 

Old Route 200. 
New York, Kingston and Syracuse 81. 
North Pennsylvania 300, 319. 
Northern Central 382. 
Northern of New Jersey 219. 
Ogdonsburg and Lake Champlain 126. 
Oil Creek and Allegheny River 359. 
Oswego and Syracuse 248. 
Pennsylvania 338. 

New York Division 254. 
Penn. and N. Y. Canal Co. 316. 
Pennsylvania and Delaware 340, 392. 
Perkiomen331. 

Philadelphia and Baltimore Central 385. 
Philadelphia and Erie 365, 367. 
Philadelphia and Reading 330. 
Philadelphia, Germantown and Morris- 
town aso. 
Philadelphia, Wilmington and Baltimore 

386. 
Pithole VaUey 359. 

Pitt.sburgh, Fort Wayne and Chicago 361. 
Pittsburgh, Washington and Baltimore 

364. 
Poughkeepsie and Eastern 79. 
Queen Anne's and Kent 392. 
Reading and Columbia 336. 
Rensselaer and Saratoga 93. 
Rome, Watertown and Ogdenshurg 159. 
Rutland and Washington 103. 
St. Lawrence and Ottawa 128. 
Schoharie Valley 328. 
Schuylkill and Susquehanna 334. 
South Side, Long Island 46. 
Southern Central 319. 
Southern Pennsylvania 376. 
Staten Island 46. 
Sullivan and Erie 318. 
Sussex 241. 
Susquehanna, Gettysburg and Potomac 



INDEX. 



469 



Syracuse Northern 159. 
Tioga. 229. 

Troy aud Boston 103. 
Tuckcrfcoa 291. 
Tyroue and Clearfield 348. 
U tica and Black River 152. 
Utica, Chenango aud Susquehanna Val- 
ley 247. 



Washington Branch, B. & 0. R. R. 

415. 
West Chester 340. 
Western Pennsylvania 352. 
West Jersey 295. 
\V^icoKico aud Pocomoke 394. 
Wilmington aud Reading 337. 
Winchester, Potomac and Strasburg 410. 



Index to Steamers. 



American Coast 11, 264, 395. 
Bay Liue 396. 
Canauilaigua Lake 203. 
Cayuga Lake 204, 207. 
Chautiiuqua Lake 237. 
Chesapeake Bay 396. 
Delaware River 264. 
East River 11, 35. 
European Ports 10, 263, 395. 
Hudson River 11, 62. 
Keuka Lake 383. 
Lake Champlain 110. 
Lake George 107. 



Long Island Sound 11, 55. 
Mount Yeruou 450. 
Ohio River 353. 
Ontario, Lake 187, 191, 217. 
Otsego Lake 325. 
Ottawa River 132. 
Potomac River 423. 
Sag Harbor 53. 
St Lawrence 193. 
Schroon Lake 134. 
Seneca Lake 208, 212. 
Staten Island 45. 
Western Lakes, the 197. 



[E CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION OE 1816. 



Eotels. — The Globe ($5 a day) is at the main entrance to the grounds, 
and is an immense brick building in Elizabethan architecture, with long 
verandas, superb fountains, etc., which (with the furniture) cost $500,000. 
It can contain 3,000 guests, and the dining-room seats 1,000. The Trans- 
Gonlinental is opposite tlie Globe, and acconmiodates 1,000 guests ($5 a 
day). The United States is a brick building 100 yards S. of the Main 
Exhibition Building, at the corner of Columbia Ave. and 42d St., and 
accommodates 600 guests (European plan). The Grand Exijosition Hotel 
is of brick, at the corner of Lancaster and Girard Aves., ten minutes' 
walk from the grounds. It has 1,325 rooms, and is on the European plan. 
The Hold Auhry is near tli University of Pennsylvania (corner of 
Walnut and 33d Sts. ), 15 minutes from the grounds by horse-cars. It is 
500 ft. long, with a wide veranda, and accommodates 2,000 guests (Euro- 
pean plan). The Park-View Hotel is a line of 30 new 3-story brick 
houses, near Lemon Hill, the Brown-St. gate, and the Girard-Ave. Bridge. 
It accommodates 6 - 800 guests, on the European plan. The Westminster 
is on Belmont Ave., near the grounds. There are many other smaller 
hotels near tlie Centennial buildings, and a legion of restaurants, the chief 
of which is Doyle's (opposite the Globe), a high-studded two-story brick 
building where 2,000 people can eat at the same time. 

Many of the hotels in the city have been enlarged, and their prices have 
been raised. Among the new hotels in the city proper are the St. George 
($5 a day), at the cori)er of Broad and Walnut Sts., accommodating 250 
guests; the Keystone, on Broad St., near Arch St. (European ])lan), ac- 
conimodating 100 guests, and richly furnished and equipi)ed ; tlie West- 
End, on Chestnut St., near 16th (European plan), 150 guests ; a new hotel 
for 300 guests on the corner of Broad and Sausom Sts., in the old building 
of the Academy of Natural Sciences ; tlie Martin House, on Girard St. 

The Cenfi'unlal Lodging-House Agency is a respectable company, witli agencies 
at the cliic'f railroad ottires, giving coupons entitling the bearer to supjior, lodging, 
and hrcakfast in hoarding or private houses for .-$'2.50 per day. They have 30,000 
lodgings registered and under inspection, varying very widely in comfort. Din- 
ners lanst l)e obtained outside. Coupons may be bought for any number of days, 
at distant cities, and visitors are met on the trains by agents who direct them to 
their quarters. 



hili 

nin 



2 RESTAURANTS. 

Many people will prefer to sojourn in the adjacent boroughs and cities, i 
large preparations have been made for them. Atlantic City, Atco, Trenton, K 
ristown, and other places have good accommodations. Tlie Peim. Milit 
Academy, at Chester (hourly trains in 40 minutes), opens June 20tli as a la . 
boarding-house. The Patrons of Husbandry have a great National Grtimier ^ 
campment-dt Elm Station, 4 M. from the E^xhibition Grounds, witli l,20(i roomaii 
long barracks, and a liall for concerts and religious services. Grangers d||i 
here for 50c. a meal and 50c. for lodgings. Railroad in and out, 15c. 

Eestaurants. — The Trois Freres Provengaux, on Belmont Ave., 
the Lake, is 177 X 110 ft. in area, and serves the richest dishes of ^ 
French cuisine. 

Lauber^s German Restaurant is near Horticultural Hall, and occu||j 

3 sides of a quadrangle, with pleasant grounds and views of the river. * ^ 
The American Iiestaura7it covers 273 X 40 ft., and is 2 stCries hij 

with 2 Avings and 3| acres of grounds (with a lieor-garden). It is 
Agricultural Hall, N. of the Belmont Ravine. There are meals at the tc^d 
d'hote, or d la carte ; French and German waiters ; an orchestra ; a silvJV 
mounted bar 150 ft. long ; and seats for 5,000 persons. The baiiquetkli 
hall seats 1,000 ; the cafe, 600 ; and there are 9 large private loomail 
ladies' pavilion 175 X 40 ft., and private rooms for ladies without escoi 

The Southern Restaurant is near the Women's Pavilion, and has a lain 
hall and several private rooms. Southern dishes and drinks, i>lantati€i( 
darky music, etc. 

Sudreau's French Restaurant is N.W. of Memorial Hall, and ha8« 
main saloon 100 X 50 ft. in area and 15 private rooms. Meals d la ca'ri\ 

The Vienna Bakery and Coffee- House is E. of Memorial Hull, and 
142 X 105 ft. in area. It is conducted by Cincinnatians, and giy. 
coffee, pastry, and lunches. 

The Neio-Kngland Log-Cabin and Kitchen is near the Women's Pav 
ion, and gives Yankee dishes cooked in the ancient manner. 

The Dairy is near Horticultural Hall, surrounded with slirul)l)ery ait 
fountains. Milk, cream, buttermilk, curds and whey, pastry, and lierriti 
are served here by 100 young women, " in the picturesque costume 
Normandy dairy-maids." The Hebreio Restaurcmt is near the Japanei; 
Building, and serves food according to the Mosaic restrictions. The Tm> 
ish Coffee-House sells fragrant coffee and sherbet. 

Amusements. — Theodore Thomas gives his renowned orchestral music ^ 
performers) at tlie corner of Broad and Master Sts. The adjacent Edwin-Forrfli 
mansion is used for a restaurant and cafe. The concert-liall accoiinnudatcs 4,Q|,i 
persons. — The Globe Concert-Garden (t)iierti's Tropical Garden) is S. "t tlie GloSi 
Hotel, and acconunodates 9,000 ])ersous. Afternoon and evening concerts are giv^ 
liere by 100 musicians, led by Ollenbach and other eminent masters, and saciV' 
concerts on Sunday evenings (50c. ; no reserved seats). The new tlicatiu is T' 
ther down Belmont Ave. Cafes-chantants, beer-gardens, and other side-sh«| 
are almost countless in number. L 

Notable Events. — May 10, opening of the Exhibition ; May 15-27, billia-;: 
tournament in Horticultural Hall (Broad St.). 3-ball, 300 points up, S? 10,000^ 
prizes; May 30 -June 2, conchive and parade of Knights Templar, with 15,0i 
men in line on June 1 ; June 13, gathering o. the Order of Good Templars ; Ji 



II 



NOTABLE EVENTS. 3 

■egattas at New York and on the Delaware River, and also international criclcet- 
niitches ; June 20, Schiitzenfest, with 5,000 German riflemen ; July 2, Congress 
.f Authors, in Independence Hall; July 4, immense military display, headed by 
he Centennial Legion, which is composed of elite companies from each of the 
■Id 13 States ; grand parade of Irish societies on the same day ; July 8, parade of 
he Order of United American Mechanics ; July 10, International Cliess Congress ; 
uly 12 and 13, parades of the Orange Association ; Aug. 2, National Assoc, of 
imerican Oarsmen meeting, followed by I'egattas, canoe-races, etc. ; Aug. 16, 
reat German festivities, Hermann's anniversary ; Aug. 22, parade of Knights of 
'ythias ; Aug. 28, arrival of the Connecticut militia; International Regatta, Aug. 
to Sept. 15 ; Sept. 4, International Medical Congress ; Sept. 1-8, bench-show of 
porting and other dogs; Sept. 20, parade of Odd- Fellows. In Sejitember also 
ccur the international rifle-matches and a grand Eisteddfod, or Welsh musical 
sstival. 

Agricultural Displays. —Yegetuhles, May 16-24; strawberries, honey, and 
'ax, June 7-15; butter and cheese, June 13-17 ; early vegetables, June 20-24; 
•lowing-machines, tedders, and hay-rakes, June 15 - 30 ; raspberries and black- 
erries, July 3-8; reaping-machines, July 5-15; Southern pomological pro- 
ucts, July 18-22; melons, Aug. 22-26; peaches, Sept. 4-9; apples and pear.s, 
ept. 11 -i6; horses, Sept. 1-14; vegetables, Sept. 19-26; neat cattle, Sept. 21- 
>ct. 4; cereals, Sept. 25-30; potatoes and roots, Oct. 2-7; .sheep and swine, 
•ct. 10-18; butter and cheese, Oct. 17-21; nuts, Oct. 23 - Nov. 1; honey and 
rax, Oct. 23- Nov. 1; poultry, Oct. 27 -Nov. 6. 

Horse-races at Point-Breeze Park, May 23 - 28, June 13 - 16, July 5 - 14, Aug, 15 - 
9, Sept. 12-16, Oct. 10 - 14 ; also at Suffolk Park, large purses ; and at Belmont 
'ark. 

Tlie "West-Point Cadets, 7th New York Regiment, Connecticut First Brigade, 
nd (4her military bodies will encamp near the grounds at different times, and 
ave brilliant dress-parades. Many Indians are expected to come on, with their 

igwams and lodges. Several Syrian Arabs are on the grounds, with Jaj>anese 
nd Chinese gentlemen and laborers. French and German mechanics, soldiers of 

reat Britain, Holland, Spain, and other remarkables are also seen. 

Routes. — The routes to Phila. are given in previous pages, except the 
ound-lirook Line from New York, recently opened. Its stations are : New Y<n-k 
) Jersey City, 1 M. ; Elizabeth. 12^; Plainfield, 24J ; Bound Brook. 31; SkiU- 
lan, -15; Hopewell, 48.V ; Pennington, 53.^; Yardley, 60; Langhorne. 67A ; Sonier- 
:)n, 73 ; Bethayres, 76 ; Jenkintowu, 80J ; Pliiladelphia, 88.^. Fares will be re- 
uced 25 per cent on all lines. Between 5 and 6 a. m. several trains leave N. Y. 
,)r Phila., (m which the fare is $2 for the round trip. After 6 a. m. trains run 
Very half-hour from N. Y., passing through in 3 hrs. ($4 for the single-day round 
•ijO. 

To the Groimds. — Trains run every few minutes to the grounds from the Penn. 
,. II. station at W. Phila., and from the Reading station at Broad and Callowliill 
ts. 110,000 persons can be carried out and back in a day by the horse-cars. 

liicli are designated by large inscriptions. The Exluhitlon Tra.nxfer Co. sends 

it wagonettes (50c. eacli p;issenger). Omnibu.ses run from the corner of Broad 

id Cliestnut Sts. (fare 25c.). The hackmen of the city should be carefully 
I'oided. 

Tlie celebration of America's Inmdredth year of e.xistence was suggested 
) Congress in 1870 by the municipality of Philadelphia ; and the U, S. 
entennial Commission was formed in 1871 for its executive management, 
le Centennial Board of Finance in 1872, to raise money and make con- 
acts. The Exhibition opened May 10th and is to close Nov. 10th. 
here are nearly 80 acres iinder cover, while the Vienna Exposition had 
ut 50, and that at Paris but 40|. The National Government appro- 
riated % 1,500,000 ; Philadelphia $ 1,500,000 ; Pennsylvania $ 1,000,000 ; 
2,500,000 were raised by stock .subscription ; and $500,000 came from 
Dnces.sions. The five main buildings^ witli the preparation of the ground.s. 



4 MAIN BUILDING. 

etc., cost nearly $ 7,000,000. The number of nations represented is ab 
forty. Order is preserved by 1,600 Centennial Guards. The grounds i 
buihiings are closed on Sundays, according to the American idea. 

The grounds occupy 236 acres on the Lansdowne Plateau of FairmoTi; 
Park, near and 90 ft. above the Schuylkill River, and are picturesqu 
diversified by two ravines, and crossed by broad avenues. They are s 
rounded by a fence 3 M. long, through which are 13 public entrances. 

The fee for entrance is 50c., which must be paid in one note or coin {ht 
dollar), as the gate-keeper will not make change. Two 25-cent notes vi' 
not secure admission, nor \vill a dollar bill admit two persons. 

A narrow-gauge passenger railway (fare, 5c. ; 3 M. long) makes the ( 
cuit of the grounds. Trains leave every few minutes, with neat little ca 
Admission to the grounds, 9 A. M. to 6 P. M. Rolling-chairs are in 1 
chief buildings, for ladies or invalids ( with attendant, 75c. an hour ; wl 
out, 35 and 50c). Unless time is much limited, visitors should buy 1 
official guides in the departments where tlieir chief interest lies. The bi 
(and an admirable) guide-book to Philadelphia is Westcott's, publish 
by Porter k Coates (price, $ 1.50). 

The Maiu Building is a parallelogram 1,880 x 464 ft. in area, and 
ft. high, with towers at the 4 corners, and 4 also (120 ft. higli) near t 
centre, and with 3 long transepts. It covers 21J acres, and the cent: 
nave is 1,832 ft. long and 120 ft. wide, flanked by similar aisles on eitl 
side, and these by outer aisles. These long avenues are connected | 
aisles 48 ft. wide. There are 4 main entrances end many side-doors. T 
building is formed by 672 iron columns (on stone piers) supporting ir 
girders and roof-trusses, the floor being of plank, the sides chiefly of glai 
and the roof of tin. Elevators convey visitors up into the central towei 
whence a noble view is gained over the Park and city. A large iron foui 
tain is near the centre. On the E. balcony is an immense organ niade 1 
E. & G. G. Hook & Hastings, of Boston, with 59 stops and 4 banks^ 
keys. Roosevelt, of New York, has erected another near the r. centre 
the building ; and a Philadelphia firm has built another on the S. T 
exterior of the building is adorned with myriads of flags and pennonn 
tlie interior is brilliantly frescoed. The total cost was $ 1,600,000. 

The exhibit of tlie Argentine Confederation is on the r., on entering t 
W. door. It cotnprises 30,000 articles, in ores, marbles, woods, hides, leathd 
ostrich feathers, jerked beef, manufactured goods, and i>h<->tograiihs of cities a); 
scenery. They were contributed by the 14 Argentine States, and were first i 
hibited in Buenos Ayres. . 

To the S. is the delicately colored pavilion of Chili, with divisions for its .-^ 
provinces, emblazoned with armorial devices, and adorned with a gigantic stufll^i 
condor, from Aconcagua. There are exquisite collections of ores, gold, sim^ 
copper, tin, etc., sulphur, salt, alum, coarse cl< ths, copper utensils, earthenwae-i 
strnw hats, and 100 varieties of wine. ^ 

Peru is more to the S.. and exhibits gold and silver ores, borax, saltpe» 
cotton, sugar, Pisc<i wines, coarse cloths and hnts. <>oppor utensils, and si»af> 
mens of guano. To the S. is the space reserved for the Orange. Free State. s 



MAIN BUILDING. 5 

N. of the "W. entrance is Italy, which has 926 exhibitors, from all parts of the 
kingdom. She shows canned goods, fine hams, macaroni, beers, olive-oil, a rich 
assortment of wines, cordials, books, models, velvets, silks, flannels, feather- 
work, gloves, prints, corals, cameos, mosaics, inlaid wood, Venetian glass, rich 
jewels, gold and silver filagree, etc. 

Japan is E. of the Argentine Confederation, in the central nave, and shows 
ivory goods, gold, lacquer-work, home-made artillery, rich bronzes and brilliant 
porcelains, minerals, ores, woods, rare Kaga vases, silks, embroideries, and manu- 
factured goods. 

China is S. of Japan and E. of Peru, and has an odd and graceful pavilion, 
singularly frescoed with Chinese scenes, and divided into several courts. It ex- 
hibits pottery, Hankow petroleum, pictures, Newchong furs, images, coins, rich 
costumes, dyes, and large and elaborate carvings in wood and ivory. 

Norway is N. of Japan, in the central nave, and has rich trophies of furs, 
textile fabrics, and silver, an iron model of a Viking ship and warrior, aerolites, 
snow-shoes, cod-liver oil, fish-nets, tankards, quaint old carved furniture, curri- 
cles, nails (forming an iron calf), wood-pulp, carved wood, silverware, and steel 
manufactures. 

Sweden is E. of Norway, with an artistic itavilion, showing fine granite and 
marble work, carved wood, terra-cotta vases, manufactured goods, shot and shell, 
car-wheels, and a great variety of steel wares and heavy castings. There is also a 
geological map of the kingdom, with minerals and ores. 

Denmark is in the nave, E. of Japan, and has a small exhibit of articles of 
home pi-oduction and manufacture. Turkey is E. of Denmark, and has only a 
small collection, on account of the Herzegovinian war. The reserves for Tunis 
and the Sandwich Islands are S. of Denmark and Turkey, opposite China. 
• Tlte massive and sombre pylon of Egypt is E. of Turkey, in the central nave, 
and shows a large collection of rich drapery, bullion-mounted saddles and bridles, 
embroidered table-spreads, delicate cabinet-work, costly furniture, and jiational 
antiquities. Here also is the Soudan collection, weapons, utensils, fishing-tackle, 
musical instruments, palm-leaf mats and hats, and 2 immense elephants' tusks. 

Portugal is S. of Egypt, with a fair exhibit, including home productions and 
manufactures, wines, fruits, etc. 

Spain is E. of Egypt, with a striking fagade, adorned with banners, busts, 
trophies, and paintings, the word Espana being over the jiortal, with a painting 
of 8i)ain discovering America, and clusters of Moorish shields and standards. 
The exhibition of Spanish products is i-ich and interesting. 

Kussia is E. of Spain, but her representation is not commensurate with her 
power aud wealth. This department is belated. 

The British Colonies ai-e N. of this line, across the nave. Canada exhibits 
a beautiful educational pavilion, many articles of iron-work, cutlery, boats, 
plated ware, carved woods, a general line of manufactured goods, and a rare col- 
lection of costly furs. Nova Scotia sends 60 minerals, gold, iron, coal, limestone, 
and wares made therefrom, and 11 ship-models, with other marine goods. Brit- 
ish Columbia has some remarlcable slabs of thick trees. Jamaica has a small ex- 
hibition. The Cape of Good Hope sends her mineral and vegetable productions, 
many varieties of wines, and articles showing the customs of the people. India 
shows grains, woods, dyes, rices, seeds, opium, cereals, medical herbs, spices, 
beautiful silks, cloth of gold, and other ethnological curiosities. Australia is 
strong in her lines of ores, wool, ingots, woods, and illustrative paintings. New 
South Wales shows coal, gold, and wood. Queensland has gold, copper, tin, geo- 
logical specimens, rare woods, grains, coal, colored photographs of her scenery 
and people, a pyramid of tin ingots, aud a gold-covered obelisk representing the 
amount of gold found in Queensland siu(>e 186S (■•^35,000,000). 

The centre of the building is occui)ied by the four great powers, — Great Brit- 
ain, Germany, France, and the United States. Great Britain is alongside 
her colonies, N. W. of the central space, on vvhicli siie has a crescent-shaped 
front, where are displayed the choicest works of Elkington, the London silver- 
smith. Back of this is a superb display of pottery and porcelain, terra-cotta, 
majolica, faience, china, and other ceramic wares, — forming one of the most 
brilliant scenes in the building. A few of the thousands of articles in the British 
court are combs, cutlery, urns, vases, statuettes, quilts and covers, carved wood, 
musical instruments, type, guns, powder, dry goods, perfumery, drugs, colors 



6 MAIN BUILDING. 

and dyes, and paper boxes. Scotland has an interesting division, with red, blu 
gray, pink, and brown polished granite, Parian and terra-cotta statuary, vase 
gilt lecterns, pebble jewelry, linen and damask goods, etc. The Wales section 
also full of quaint interest. 

Austria is S. of the nave, and E. of Russia, with a pavilion handsome 
ornamented with stained glass, and has over 500 exhibitors, showing leathe 
bronze, meerschaum, mother-of-pearl, amber, and woollen goods. There are al.' 
the gloves of Prague, the ivories of Vienna, silks, shawls, lustres, girandole 
mirrors, divans, carpets, Bohemian glassware, carved pipes in rich variety, an 
a great tablet of oleomargarine. 

Germany occupies the S. W. side of the central space, and has a gracefi! 
pavilion with a green glass dome, ribbed with velvet. She exhibits rich porcelaii 
imintings and vases of Berlin, ivory carvings, I.eipsic furs, spice oils, Dresde 
pai-quetry, wines from 87 llhine vineyards, furniture from 30 hrms. 1.36 lirn 
show books, 24 show lithographic stones and work. There are also Elberfel j 
wares, aniline colors, Stuttgart woodwork, bronzes, Nuremberg toys (35 exhib 
tors), daintily arranged chemicals (40 exhibits), perfumery, cigars, various cloths 
silks, velvets, satins, a model of the steamer Frisia, etc. Krupp has sent als 
an immense gun, weighing 47 tons, adapted for a 1,600 lb. ball; also a model of 
section of German railway. 

France also fronts on the central space, having a crescent formed by ric 
Alpine and Pyrenean marbles, backed by the artistic bronzes of De Susses Neve 
and rare faience. She has over 2,000 exhibitors, with a vast amount of orns 
mental goods, furniture, Gobain plate glass, ribbons, perfumery, immense Sevrei 
vases, costumes, weapons, etc. 

Switzerland has a pretty little chalet, with over 500 exhibitors, displayinj 
clocks and watches, embroidery, laces, wood carvings, straw goods, chemicals 
jewelry, photographs, silks, cottons, and an educational de]»artnient. 

Belgium is E. of Switzerland, and has a large and creditable show, includin 
musical instruments, weapons, clocks, cloths, almost every variety of manu 
factured goods, and an exquisitely beautiful carved pulpit. 

Brazil lifts large and imposing Moorish pavilions, brilliant in colors and gold 
E. of Belgium, in the nave. She has the largest and best South-American diS 
play, witii cotton and woollen cloths, silks, wall-paper, saddles, bronzes, chemi 
cals, sugar, wines, liquors, precious stones, woods, building stones, metals, fans 
feather-work, photographs, etc. 

The Netlierlands, to the E. of- Brazil, show books, pipes, Leyden scentec 
soaps, flax, flour and starch, Deventer carpets, minerals, oils, liqueurs, Geldroj 
linens, plans of public works, etc. 

The Dntch East-Indian Colonies display their products in a mosque, which ii 
dazzlingly brilliant in gold and color. 

Mexico is E. of the Netherlands, and has not been prevented by her civi 
wars from taking her part well. She shows manufactured silks, woollens, coi 
ton, cigars, silver filagree, natural productions, marbles, ores of Durango am 
Zimapan iron, meteoric stones, coal, onyx, and a mass of pure Potosi silvei. 
weighing 4,200 lbs. and valued at $72,000. Rich native costumes are displayed 
views and maps of the volcanic district ; and a collection of the writings ol 
Mexican authors. 

The United States of America occupies about \ of the main building 
At the centre, where it faces Great Britain, Germany, and France, is a dazzling 
display of jewelry and silverware, by Till'any, Gorham, Caldwell, etc. A few 
among the immense variety of goods shown are rich perfumes, cloths of ever> 
kind. New York gloves, Cohoes woollens, scented soaps in huge bars, bronzt 
oi-naments, Remington's and other tire-arms, colored marbles and granites, ricli 
Colorado ores, Pennsylvania coal and iron, Massachusetts cutlery and textih 
fabrics, Connecticut tools and utensils, the sparkling Meriden Britannia display^ 
the ores and minerals of the Lehigh Valley, electrical apparatus, fine white-wirt 
goods, gold-leaf decorations. Oregon woods, Ohio coal, chandeliers, billiard- 
tables, native wines, polished plates, polished granite work, rope, clothing, locks 
ribbons, glassware, plate and stained glass, stoves, Auburn carpets, alpacas, 
mohairs, shirts, aniline dyes, essential oils, New- York soaps, watches, the min 
erals, grains, birds, and woods of New Jersey, Millville glass, Newark manu- 
factures, the resources of Kansas. Near the S. W. comer of the building is the 



MACHINERY HALL. 7 

two-story iron pavilion of the American book-sellers, with its fine exhibit of 
literary wealth. The Massachusetts marine department has interesting models 
and boats, canoes, and batteaux. Near tlie E, end of the building is the section 
given to pianos and organs of all sizes, styles, and makers. 

Machinery Hall is W. of and near the Main Building, and is 360 X 
1,402 ft. in area, with several annexes and boiler-houses. It contains 14 
acres of flooring, and is divided by two main avenues and numerous wide 
aisles. It is 40-70 ft. high, with side-projections, fa9ades at the ends, 
and Louvre ventilators above. The materials are timber and glass, and 
the cost was $ 512,300. Double lines of shafting run above each avenue, 
and down the aisles, and steam-power is furnished free to all exhibitors. 
In the N. E. tower is a chime of 13 bells, on which tunes are played at 
siuirise, noon, and sunset. The motive-power of nearly all the machin- 
ery is furnished by an enormous Corliss engine from Providence, which 
weighs 800 tons and was brought on 65 freight cars. It is of 1,600 horse- 
power, is beautifully finished and in parts polished, and moves like 
clock-work. 

The exhibits of foreijirn nations are in the E. part of the hall, towards the Main 
Building. Great Britain shows a monstrous Glasgow sugar-mill, delicate 
Jaccjuard silk-looms, jute-dressers, steam-derricks, cotton-machines, steam-ham- 
mers, a Cornish pumping-engine, looms, sewing-machines, card-looms, road-loco- 
motives, spindles, mules, engraving machinery, armor-plates, the famous Walter 
press, etc. Belgium shows rock-boring and crushing machinery, a coal-breaker, 
several looms, a general assortment from Ghent, and the handsome Corliss engine 
of the Belgian Mint. Germany has 74 exliihitors, and shows several sewmg- 
niachines and some singular gas-motors. S-weden has two steam-engines and 
a large show of stoves and furnaces. France discredits herself by her insigniti- 
cant display. 

Brazil shows artillery, muskets, a model of an arsenal, and other martial ob- 
jects. Canada has an interesting section, with numerous machines for various 
purposes, and several well-built canoes. 

The United States occupy by far the greater part of the hall, and display a 
vast number of machines of all kinds. Delaware shows car-wheels and railroad 
castings, wood-carving machinery, a 'patent puddler, etc. New York has over 
100 exhibitors, of varied uses ; Providence has several articles ; Charleston sends 
an immense cotton-press ; Pittsburgh has the Westinghouse air-brakes ; Worces- 
ter sends weaving-looms ; Baltimore appears with a hominy-mill ; New Bruns- 
wick, N. J., with a caleudering-machine ; Waltham with watch-machinery ; Chi- 
cago with hydraulic works ; and Philadelphia with a great variety of powerful 
machines. At the W. end of the hall are the pavilions and pagodas of the sewing- 
machine makers. There are 15 railroad locomotives, made at Philadelphia, Pat- 
erson, Scranton, Oswego, Pittsburgh, and other places. The different companies 
in this line have vied with each other to produce powerful and handsome engines. 

The hydraulic engines are in an aimex, where they are worked by a waterfall 
35 ft. liigh and 40 ft. wide, constantly iilunging from a lake-like tank which is 
kept full by a multitude of pumps on exhibition. 

Memorial Hall, or the Art Gallery, is 300 ft. N. of the Main Building, 
on a terrace 122 ft. above the Schuylkill. It is 365 X 210 ft. in area (cov- 
ering 1^ acres) and 59 ft. high, with a dome 150 ft. high, crowned by a 
colossal statue of Columbia, with statues below representing the four quar- 
ters of the world. The dome is lighted at night, and is then visible for 
' many miles. The main front is to the S., consisting of 3 immense arch- 



8 ART GALLERY. 

ways (40 ft. high) opening on a terrace, which is reached by steps and is 
flanked on either side by colossal bronze statues of Pegasus, held in check 
by draped female figures. Clustered columns stand by the doors, and ar- 
cades join the side pavilions to the centre. The doors are of iron, bearing 
the arms of all the States and Territories, with the U. S. arms in the 
frieze. There are large pavilions at the corners of the building, each of 
which has 2 windows 12J X 34 ft. in area, destined for stained glass and 
glass paintings. The pavilions are joined to the centre by ornamented 
arcades Avhich are used as promenades and command views of the inner 
gardens. The N. front has 12 windows and an entrance ; the E. and W. 
fronts show the pavilions, the walls of the galleries, and an elaborate 
frieze. At the N. is the Grand Balcony, 275 X 45 ft. in area and 40 ft. 
high, forndng a pleasant promenade. The halls are 82 X 60 ft., and 53 ft. 
high ; and the central hall is 83 ft. square and 80 ft. high, under an inner 
dome, or suspended ceiling, of galvanized iron. The floors are all of mar- 
ble, and the walls are decorated in the neo-classic style. The great clock 
strikes the hours, and gives the month, date, and day. The galleries 
open to E. and W., each being 98 X 48 ft., and 35 ft. high. With the 
central rotunda they form a great hall 287 X 83 ft. in area. The minor 
galleries are each 89 X 28 ft. in area, and 23 small studios and exhibition- 
rooms open to the N. from the main galleries. The galleries give 75,000 
square ft. of wall-space, lighted from above through double skylights of 
clear and ground glass. 

Memorial Hall is built of a light pearly granite, glass, and iron, in Re- 
naissance architecture. It cost $1,500,000-2,000,000, which was paid 
by Pennsylvania and Philadelphia. The building is to remain perma- 
nently, as a memorial of the century celebration. This hall was found to 
be too small to accommodate all the Avorks of art which were thought 
worthy of exhibition, and so an annex was built on the N., with even 
more wall-space than there is in Memorial Hall. 

In the centre of the rotunda is the immense statue of America, a copy of that 
on the Albert Memorial, at London. Great Britain, Fraiieo, Germany, and tlie 
United States occupy the 4 corner pavilions. Great Britain has 5 rooms, in- 
cluding tlie N. W. ijavilion, and exhibits over $ 1,000,000 worth of paintings (in- 
cluding 197 works). Queen Victoria contributes live, which are guarded by V)olice- 
men. Among them are the Marriage of the Prince of Wales, by Frith, and tlie 
Death of AVolfe, by West. Among the other paintings are the Banquet-Scene in 
Macbeth, Madise ; On the Hills, the Anxious Mother, Ansdell ; Julian and the 
Sectarians, Armitage ; Adam and Eve, Barry; After the Battle, and Desdemona, 
Caldcron; Morning, Calcatt; the Lock, Con^tuhle; the Goodwin Light-ship, and 
the Rescued Barque. Cooke; Sleeping Nymph and Satyrs. Etty ; God's Acre, and 
Baith Faither and Mither, Faed ; Pamela, and the Railway Station, Frith; Thor 
Battling the Serpent, Frcseli ; the Duchess of Richmond, Gninsboroiigh ; Viscount 
Hardinge in India, Grant; Hannah More, Ople; Christ Blessing Little Children, 
West; Reading the Gazette, Wilkie ; Convalescence, the Mummy, and the Vin- 
tage Festival, Abim Tadema; Lenore, Elmore; Griselda, Cope; Sir Joshua Rey- 
nolds, by himself; Abelard, Newton; Samson and Delilah, Rigavd ; Thought, 
Sent; George Washington, S<i(ari. The Landseer paintings include the Lions, 
the Sick Monkey, and others. There are also choice works by Mulready, Millais, 



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ART GALLERY. 9 

Holman Hunt, Sir John Gilbert, Prinsep, Boughton, Cheswick, Domett, Leslie, 
Poynter, Northcote, Leightou (Oriental scenes), Hilton, Horseley, Stone, Ward, 
Archer, and many others. But few of these are on sale, most of them having 
been loaned from the ancestral halls and galleries of Great Britain. 

There are 56 water-color pictures, by Tadema, Absalon, Cattermole, May, Lin- 
ton, Sniallheld, Read, Severn, Tliorburn, Hayne, Goodall, and other masters. In 
sculpture, there are the Venus, of Gibson; Benjamin West, Outntrey ; three 
groups, by Lord Gower ; Flaxman, Bailey ; Spartan Boy, D'Epinay, etc. 

Germany sends the Flight of the Winter King, Bu Faur ; the Orphans, 
Lasck ; the Surrender at Sedan, Braun ; Lady Jane Grey, FoUngby ; and several 
scenes from th« Franco-Prussian war. There are only about 50 paintings, by Meyer, 
Kaulbach, Becker, Gtiterbock, Amberg, Schauss, Begas, Jordan, Plockhorst, ancl 
others. In the disi)lay of sculi^ture are Brunnow's Von Moltke and Schvjeinilz's 
Crown Prince. 

France has done herself no honor in the art department, the paintings being 
mostly by artists of but little fame. The Government has, however, sent a rich 
display of Gobelin tapestries (Penelope, La Peche, etc.), and some beautiful 
Sevres ware, vases, cups, etc. 

Italy exhibits numei-ous rich pictures and over 300 marble statues, many of 
which were executed by Albacini, D'Epinay, Rosetti, Popatti, Romanello, Cambi, 
Botticelli, and others of the native sculptors of Rome, Florence, and Milan, with 
bronze statuary by Prof. Papi. Wood-carving and Venetian crystal are also well 
represented. There are 11 exquisite mosaic pictures by Signor Moglia, of Rome, 
" the Raphael of Mosaic Art." The Pope has sent a tiii)estry representing St. 
Agnes on the Wheel, and mosaic copies of Raphael's Madonna della Seggiola and 
Sassoferrato's Madonna. 

Kelgium. sends 180 oil-paintings and many water-colors, with several quaint 
old carvings of religious subjects. The i)aintings are mostly (/erere, and IVitt- 
kamp's Parisina is perhaps tlie most noteworthy. 

Holland contributes 146 paintings, mostly of the Dilsseldorf school, with 
copies (jf Paul Potter's Bull and other famous pictures. This disi)lay is large and 
brilliant. 

Spain has about 140 paintings, mostly from Madrid and Barcelona, including 
several very valuable works loaned from the national gallery by King Alfonso. 

Austria has about 200 paintings, by Angell, Russ, Canon, Friedlander, Felix, 
Buhhneyer, Lichtenfels, Schon, and others. The gems of this collection are tlie 
Caterina Cornaro and the Abundantia, of Maclcaert. Austria also contributes 40 
pieces of statuary. 

Norway makes a very fine show with pictures by her best masters, including 
Gude's marines, Tidevuind's village-scenes, Arbo, Suiding, and others. The sculp- 
tures are by Christian Borg and other artists. Sweden is represented by 
numerous excellent genre pictures. Russia has a fair display, including several 
works by Simon de Skirmount. Bavaria sends a few pictures from the Munich 
Art Gallery. 

Mexico shows a few brilliant paintings, including the splendid Valley of Mexico, 
by Vdasco. Canada also has a creditable display of works by her native artists. 

The United States is largely represented in this department, and, on the 
whole, creditably, though some of her leading artists have declined to contribute, 
on account of professional misunderstandings. Many new pictures are exhibited, 
and some of the best works from the private galleries. The selections have been 
made with much care by a painstaking and resolute jury of artists. The Amer- 
ican section is especially strong in landscape and statuary. Over 100 water- 
colors are shown in a separate gallery, including the works of Titfany, Gilford, 
Bellows, Richards, Boughton, Swain, Colraan, Hennessey, and others. A part of 
the American show is in the great annex. 

The Historical Museum occupies two large rooms. in the annex, and en- 
deavors to illustrate the colonial history of the 13 original States by flags, 
medals, portraits, and other antiquitie.s. Virginia, New Hampshire, and Massa- 
chusetts have large and interesting collections ; and other States also make worthy 
displays. Ten paintings and other memorials of the Washington family have been 
secured, with many quaint old books and ancestral porti'aits. Small collections 
of Indian and Mexican antiquities have also been made in this department. 



10 AGRICULTURAL HALL. 

The Agricultural Hall is N. of the Horticultural Hall, beyond the 
Belmout Ravine. It is 820 X 540 ft. in area (covering 10^ acres), and is 
built of glass, tin, and wood, in semi-Gothic architecture, Avitli a green 
roof. The roof is supported by Howe trusses 75 ft. high, and its lines 
are broken by several high towers. Large chandeliers depend from the 
cathedral-like pointed arches. The nave is 820 ft. long and 125 ft. wide, 
and is intersected by 3 broad transepts. The exhibits include the multi- 
farious products of the field and forest, agricultural objects, land and 
marine animals, fish culture, economic animal and vegetable products, 
textile substances, etc. The great aquaria for food-fishes are on the W. 
side of the building. The natural-history department has casts of the 
enormous megatherium, a fossil armadillo, the skull of a mastodon, the 
skull and tusks of the Elejihasis Ganisea (18 ft. long), the Guadaloupe 
fossil-man, saurians, fossil bird-tracks, shells, etc. The zoological depart- 
ment has stuff'ed ostriches, elk, moose, hump-backed camels, tigers, and 
many other remarkable animals. The displays of cereals, vegetables, 
fruits, nuts, and such matters, are large and interesting. 

Among the nations which have secured space in this buildings and have made 
exhibits of their native grains and fruits, are Great Britain, France, Germany, 
Austria, Norway, Sweden, Russia, Belgium, Holland, Spain, Italy, China, 
Jai>an, Venezuek, Chili, Brazil, Mexico, Peru, Canada, Denmarl<, Portugal, 
and the Argentine Republic. Great Britain, Spain, Chili, and Brazil have large 
and interesting collections. The following have systematic State exhibits ; 
Missouri, Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin, Connecticut, Massachusetts, 
New Hampshire, Oregon, Washington Territory, New Jersey, West Virginia, 
Delaware, Ohio, Kentucky, Florida, and Iowa. These collections were made up 
lay the respective State Agricultural Boards. 

The Pomological Building is N. E. of the Agricultural Hall, and is 180 X 
200 ft. hi area. It is for the spring and fall fruits, berries, and vegetables, and is 
the scene of tempting disiilays of luscious peaches, pears, apples, strawberries, 
and other dainties. The Brewers' Exliibition Building is near Agricultu- 
ral Hall, and is 272 X % ft. in area (costing $bO,OUO). It was erected by the U. S. 
Brewers' Association, and displays barley and malt, hops, and machinery, with 
an ale-house, breweries,. a malt-house, etc. The American Dairymen's As- 
eioeiation has a large two-story building E. of Agricultural Hall, in which aro 
I'utter and the cheese-factory and creamery, with enormous cheeses, oddly shaped 
lumps of butter, and a public view of the processes of manufacture. 

Horticultural Hall is on the high ground of Lansdowne Terrace, N. 
of the Main Building, whence it is reached by a bridge over the Lans- 
downe Ravine. It Avas built chiefly by the city of Philadelphia, and is to 
be permanent. The area is 383 X 193 ft. (72 ft. high) ; the materials are 
stone, brick, glass, and iron ; the architecture is ancient Saracenic, and 
the cost was over $250,000. The central conservatory is 230 X 80 ft. ia 
area, and is .surrounded by a gallery. A statue- adorned fountain, by 
Miss Foley, adorns this court ; and smaller fountains play at the corners. 
The building is lighted by 3,500 gas-burners in 4 great chandeliers. At 
the E, and W. ends are restaurants and reception-rooms ; and stairways 
lead from the vestibule to the far-viewing outer galleries and the prome- 
nade on the roof. On the N. and S. sides are 4 forcing-houses, each 100 X 



GOVERNMENT BUILDING. 11 

30 ft. in area, covered with curving roofs of iron and glass. The E. and 
W. portals are reached by blue-marble steps from broad terraces which 
are adorned with kiosks. 40 acres around the Hall are devoted to floral 
displays, in which Great Britain, Spain, China, France, Holland, Cuba, 
Hayti, Jamaica, Bermuda, and the Argentine Republic take part. 

The rich frescos and traceries, delicate ornaments, and graceful lines of 
horseshoe arches, make this building the gem of the Centennial grounds- 
Vast beds of odoriferous and brilliant flowers surround it, showing the 
fairest of the American and temperate-zone flora. The display of hya- 
cinths and tulips is notable, and Waterer's great collection of rhododen- 
drons and azaleas has been sent hither from England. Lachaume has the 
largest single display, and is on the S. side. Among the tropical trees 
and plants are rare ferns, agaves, cacti, pimento-plants, cofi"ee-trees, 
sugar-canes, bananas, pine-apples, orange and lemon trees, cocoanut, date, 
and royal palms, and many other rich and rare growths, in bloom or 
fruitage. Annexes have been erected in the vicinity to accommodate the 
unexpected abundance. 

The United-States Government Building is on Belmont Ave. oppo- 
site the Women's Pavilion, and covers over 2 acres. It is of wood and 
glass, and cost $ 65,000. On the outside are the iron-clad monitor turret 
(with 2 15- inch guns), a 55-ton 20-inch Rodman gun, 8 and 9 inch guns, 
breech-loading rifled cannon, howitzers, ambulances, forges, and baggage- 
wagons, a long building for experiments in shooting and testing powder, 
and a post-hospital fitted for service, containing 24 beds, with drugs and 
medicines, hospital stores, surgical instruments, medical books and speci- 
mens, and models of hospital cars and steamships. 

The War Department makes a large display. The Ordnance Bureau shows 
heavy artillery out-doors, liglit guns, the Gatling mitrailleuse, ancient wall- 
pieces, muskets and breech-loading rifles, revolvers and sabres, cartridges, pow- 
der, projectiles, and the actual process of manufacturing Springfield rifles, by 
delicate machinery. Lay-figures illustrate the armaments and uniforms of Ameri- 
can soldiers in 1776, ^1812, 1846, 1861, and 1876. The Engineer Bureau shows 
machinery, pontoon, sfege, and mining appliances, maps and charts, models of 
light-houses, photographs of tield-works in war-time, etc. The Quartermaster's 
Bureau exhibits army clothing, camp and garrison equipage, harnesses, wagon 
and ambulance trains, and similar articles. The Signal Service is represented by 
an office completely fitted up and in operation, with a telegraphic train of wagons. 

The Navy Department shows small and great guns, boat howitzers, cut- 
lasses, pikes, 1,000 samples of shot and shell, models, carronades, and two power- 
ful and highly polished sloop-ot'-war steam-engines. (The ancient and renowned 
frigate Constitution is anchored in the Delaware River.) 

The Interior Department shows models of patents, Indian curiosities, and 
Powell's admiralile relief-maps of the Grand Canon of the Colorado (60 square 
feet), the Yosemite Valley, and the Niagara Gorge. The Treasury Depart- 
ment shows, among other things, tlie delicate machinery of the U. y. Mint, with 
some of its richest treasures. The Pogt-Office Department has an office in 
full operation, with money-order and registration offices, boxes, carriers, etc. 

Under the arrangement of the Smithsonian Institution the United States 
makes an interesting display of articles, archaeological and ethnological, the ani- 
mal kingdom, and minerals. The antiquities are mostly those of the Indians and 



12 WOMEN'S PAVILION. 

Hie mound-'builders. An attemjit was made to secure families from each of the 
25 aboriginal tribes, to illustrate their domestic life, but it was not carried out. 
Lay-figures represent Indian encampments, and there is a large collection of 
primitive weapons and utensils. The animals are stuffed and mounted, and in- 
clude nmsk oxen, cougars, deer, coyote, buttalo, peccary, mountain goat, moose, 
elk, caribou, jaguar, crocodile, black, white, and grizzly bears, seals, sea lions, 
walruses, sea elephants, etc. There is also a rich and very large collection of 
birds, including bald, gray sea, ring-tailed, golden, and northern sea eagles, Cali- 
fornian and Mexican vultures, owls, parrots, paroquets, cuckoos, herons, ducks, 
and myriads of smaller birds. Fishes are shown by 4,500 plaster easts and many 
photographs, with specimens of seal-skin, walrus tusks, tortoise shells, alligator 
teeth, whale tusks, otter skins, fish oils, tanned alligator and whale skins, etc. 
The costumes and modes of attack of the fishermen are also shown by lay- 
figures ; and there are miniature factories for fish oil and guano, scaling machifies, 
and drying houses. Another line of cases shows oysters from Prince-Edward 
Island, the Chesapeake, and the Pacific, clams, mussels, crabs, shrimps, corals, 
star-fish, sponges, pearl oysters, and smoked pearl. 

Minerals are fully classified, and among them are masses of silver ore from Ne- 
vada and Colorado, gold ores from the Sierra mines, iron ores from Missouri and 
the Atlantic States, copper, quicksilver, salt, etc. There is an obelisk (40 ft. 
high) of Pennsylvania coal, with the block coal of Indiana, cannel coals of W. 
Virginia and Kentucky, and other varieties. Petroleum is also shown, in its crude 
and refined states. 

The Women's Pavilion is opposite the U. S. Building, on Belmont Ave., 
and was built by the contributions of American women, at a cost of 
$ 40,000, The exterior inclines to Moorish architecture, and the interior 
is colored white and blue. The displays herein are all of women's work, 
and include costly banners, embroidery, needlework, laces, Revolutionary 
relics, stained glass, household ornaments, millinery, costumed lay-figures, 
caskets, etc. Tlie art display is very attractive, containing many decorative 
designs, charcoal sketches, lithograplis, engravings, slate and porcelain 
paintings, pen-and-ink sketches, drawings on wood, and paintings in oil 
and water-colors. Statuary also enters into the exhibit, and Harriet 
Hosmer has sent from Europe casts of the celebrated Lord-BrownloAV 
gates, of whicli she was the designer, and her African Sibyl. Signora De 
Sanctis contributes two fine water-colors ; Adelaide Mariani sends her 
famous statue of Sappho ; and the Freemans, of Rome, send decorative 
articles. Tlie Queen and the Princesses of England have also sent speci- 
mens of their handiwork in embroidery, spinning, drawing, and etching. 

The Shoe-and-Leather Building is S. of Machinery Hall, and is 300 X 
160 ft. in area, having cost about $40,000, most of which was raised in 
Massachusetts. There are 181 exhibitors of boots and shoes, 115 of sole 
leather, 31 of morocco and sheepskin, 55 of dressed leathers, 40 of har- 
nesses, 23 of saddlery hardware, 21 of trunks and valises, 21 of nibber 
goods, 22 of blacking, 87 of leather and shoe machinery. England, 
Russia, and Germany have exhibits here. 

The Wagon-and-Carriage Building is N. of the Main Hall, near Me- 
morial Hall, and is of wood and corrugated iron, 392 X 277 ft. in area, 
(costing $53,000), Only pleasure-carriages are admitted, and of the firms 
exhibiting 75 are American, 11 are English, and 9 are French, besides 



SMALLER BUILDINGS. 13 

small displays from Germany, Italy, Belgium, and Canada. One fourth 
of the space is devoted to railroad and street cars, parlor and sleeping cars, 
showing the latest improvements. 

The Judges' Pavilion fronts on the space between Machinery Hall and 
tlie Main Building, and is 152 X 113 ft. in area. It cost $ 30,000 and is a 
handsome piece of architecture, with towers at the corners. Within are 
audience and lecture halls and galleries, offices, and parlors. The offices 
of the Centennial Commission and the Board of Finance are oi)posite this 
building, flanking the chief entrance to the grounds. 

The World's Ticket and Enquiry Office is between Machinery Hall 
and the Lake, and is a handsome octagonal structure. It is the head- 
quarters of Messrs. Cook, Son and Jenkins, the celebrated managers of 
European excursions. 

The Centennial National Bank (branch office) is alongside of the 
main entrance, close to the ^lain Building. The Bankers' Building is 
near Memorial Hall, and is a neat building with reception and committee 
rooms, for the use of over 400 bank-officers who subscribed for it. 

The House of Public Comfort is next E. of the Judges' Pavilion, and is 

100 ft. square. It coutaius wriiiug-rooms, baggage-rooius, a news-stand, lavato- 
ries and toilet-iooius, a head-quarters of messengers, etc., and is a great conven- 
ience to visitors. 

The Sheet Metal Pavilion is a singular structure of galvanized iron, on 
Belmont Ave., oriianieiited with columns and scroll-work. The Philadelphia 
City Building is near Horticultural Hall ; and the Music Pavilion is to the S. in 
the Lansdowne Ravine, along whose amphitlieatrical sides full 10,000 people can 
rest and listen to tlie music. 

The Pennsylvania Education Hall is near Memorial Hall, and is an 
oct'igonal buildnig witli dome and wings, in wliicli will be exhibited the school- 
system of the ytate and tlie articles used therein. Massacliusetts has a similar 
display in the Main Building. A Kindergarten school-house has also been 
erected. 

The Newspaper Pavilion is 67 X 46 ft. in area, Avith a lantern roof and gal- 
leries tor wrJLfrs. All tiie piiiicrs and periodicals of tlie United tStates are kept 
here on tile, in light, pigeoii-holed alcoves. The Penn. Bible Society has a build- 
ing where the .S<'ripiures in all languages are furnished. 

The Photograph Building is nearly between the Main Building and 
Memorial Hall, and contains a large display of American i)hotographs, in a hall 
lighted by skylights. The Centennial Pkotogni'jjhlc Cornpany has a building near 
the corner or Belmont Ave. and the Avenue oi the Republic, where pictures of 
the Exhibition buildings are sold. Near Machinery Hall are small buildings for 
the display of Harrisburg cars, Troy and Phila. stoves, sewing-machines, saw- 
mill macliinery, glass-making (with great furnaces), heating apparatus, the 
Louiseau pressed fuel, self-coiling shutters, an oil-well. There are several news- 
paper ofric.es on the grounds. 

Lieaard's Kelief-3Iaps of Paris, Naples, Jerusalem, Switzerland, and 
Italy are on Pouiitaui Ave., and show the chief buildings and natural features 
in miniature. The Paris is 40 ft. square. There is also a relief-plan of the city 
of Mexico, with its public buildings, streets, and squares. 

Sa^vyer's Observatory is on Belmont Hill, beyond Agricultural Hall, and 
is nearly ^00 ft. high, being ascended by a large steam-elevator (fee 25c.). It com- 
mands a noble view of the grounds, the city. Laurel Hill, and the Schuylkill 
Valley. Simil.ir observatorie ; stand on Lemon Hill ami George's Hill, and the 
old W. Philadelphia stand-jiipc has also been utilized for this purpose. 



U FOREIGN BUILDINGS. 

Buildings of Foreign Nations. 

St. George's House is the head-quarters of the British Commissioners, 
and is between the Catholic Fountain and George's Hill. It covers 5,000 
superficial feet, and is in the half-timbered style of the 16th century, 
with lath and rough-cut plaster between the beams. The roof is steep 
and broken in outline, and is covei'ed Avith red tiles ; while heavy stacks 
of brick chimneys rise above. The quaint windows have small glasses, 
set in lead, with iron casements. The interior is finished in panelling 
and English paper, with tiled floors, fireplaces, and high, carved oaken 
mantels. The massive furniture is all from Great Britain. There are 
two smaller buildings of similar style adjacent, of which one is for the 
staff, the other for a kitchen and laundry. They are surrounded by rustic 
fences, within which are beds of roses, daisies, and daffodils. Bayard 
Taylor says that " these old Saxon houses, honest and true inside and out, 
with the utmost integrity of form and decoration, seem to have been taken 
bodily from Chester or Shrewsbury," 

The Japanese Building is near St. George's House, and is designed to 
illustrate domestic life in the land of the Mikado. It was built by car- 
penters from Yedo, and was first erected in Japan and then shipped to 
America in sections. It is a rare piece of joiner-work, being held together 
mainly by dovetails and grooves, and the wood is finely grained and 
smooth as satin. The roof is of carbonized tiles made from gray earth. 
The sides are surrounded with lattices. 

The German-Empire Building is E. of Belmont Ave., near the Lake, 
and is a well-finished and ornamental structure of brick and stone, one 
story high. It has a central saloon 32 ft. square and two wings ; and the 
portal is reached by a stone stairway, and is adorned with statuary. Exotic 
flowers surround the house. 

France has erected a costly and imposing pavilion near Memorial Hall, 
in which she exhibits exquisite models and plans of some of her great 
public works, — the Brest bridge, the Dinan viaduct, the harbor of Mar- 
seilles, the Pont-du-Jour viaduct, the Breton light-houses, etc. Adjacent 
ami exes are for stained glass and articles of bronze. 

Brazil has a lai'ge building on the W. side of Agricultural Ave., among 
stately trees. It is surrounded by a balcony and adorned Avith pillars. 

Portugal has a pavilion on Belmont Ave., W. of Horticultural Hall ; 
Spain has a Saracenic building and a villa near George's Hill ; Chili 
has a structure 90 X 40 ft. in area, near Machinery Hall; the elaborate 
Moorish villa from Morocco is near Horticultural Hall ; and the Celestial 
carpenters are also erecting a quaint pavilion for China. 

Sweden has erected a school-house near the Judges' Pavilion, to illus- 
trate hei- system of education, with its furniture, chai'ts, and apparatus. 
It is called the best i)iece of cr.rpenter-work on ihc groumls, and was built 



STATE BUILDINGS. 15 

by Swedish workmen, of polished and unpainted Swedish wood. The 
windows are arched, with swinging sashes; and the peaked roof overhangs 
the sides. 

The State Buildings 
are on and near State Avenue, which is on the S. side of George's Hill. 
They are for headquarters for the commissioners and citizens of the vari- 
ous States, and have convenient parlors, halls, etc. 

Arkansas has an octagonal pavilion, W. of the British buildings, with 
a dome 50 ft. high. The building is of wood, glass, and iron, and will 
contain many articles of interest from the State. 

West Virginia is opposite the Catholic fountain, and has a plain 
structure. Here also is the unoccupied space for Missouri. 

Mississippi has a semi-rustic log-house, near the Japanese buildings, 
embellished with curiously twisted boughs and vines. Virginia refused 
to make an appropriation for the Exposition, but one of her people has 
erected a neat cottage, with a broad veranda, for the use of Virginians. 

New York has a modern villa, finely located N. of tlie British build- 
ings, with cupola and piazza. It is roomy and well lighted, and is a rep- 
resentative American summer house. 

Delaware is N, of New York, on State Ave., and is 90 X 75 ft. in area, 
with a cupola 50 ft. high. It has a public hall, and parlors for ladies 
and gentlemen. Maryland is just E. of Delaware, and has one of the 
last houses built. 

Massachusetts is E, of Maryland, and has a two-story house of rural 
colonial architecture, with steep roof, dormer windows, low rear-wall, and 
observatory. It has been dubbed " The Witches' Castle," and Bayard 
Taylor calls it " an astonishing structure of the most exclusive Boston- 
Brahminical aspect." The furniture is all from Massachusetts; and the 
building contains rooms for the Governor, State commissioners, newspajfer 
press, post-office, toilet-rooms, etc. The main hall seats 600 people, and 
there are seats in the gardens for 500 more. 

Connecticut is E. of Massachusetts, and has a quaint and cosey little 
cottage, in the half-timber style of Gothic dwellings. It was designed by 
Donald G. Mitchell (Ik Marvel), and is 40 ft. square, with a front of 
shingles, timbers, and plaster, a projecting second story, a broad porch, 
bearing Connecticut's arms and motto, an old-fasliioned hatch-door, a 
deep dormer-window, side-balconies, verandas, and a low rear-wall. In- 
side it is finished with wood, and has parlors and a comfortable reception- 
room, with antique fireplaces. The building is surrounded with the trees 
of Connecticut, 

New Hampshire is E. of Connecticut, and has a spacious villa, sur- 
rounded with verandas, and furnished Avitli pleasant interior ofiices. 
W''<co'nsin has a comfortalile building to the E., beyond which is the un- 
occiqiieJ space for Micliijan and ilUuois. 



16 STATE BUILDINGS. 

Indiana conies next, and has a semi-Moorish pavilion with a high arched - 
roof fitted with skylights, and rising on trusses over the assembly hall, i 
This hall has 1,400 ft. of floor, with a fountain ; and on its walls are tablets ii; 
containing the statistics of the counties. The building also contains par- v( 
lors, post-office, baggage-room, and other conveniences. It is octagonal \ 
in shape, 65 X 65 ft. in area. 

Ohio is E. of Indiana, and has a picturesque building whose lower story 
is constructed of twenty different varieties of stone from the quarries in 
the State. 

Pennsylvania is next to Ohio, with a wooden building 98 X 55 ft. in 
area, in Gothic architecture, with a central tower and flanking octag- 
onal spires. It is surrounded by a neat piazza, and has numerous dor- 
mer-windows. Within is the main hall, 50 X 30 ft. in area, with luxurious 
parlors and committee-rooms. 

New Jersey has a handsome building near the Women's Pavilion, 82 X 

42 ft. in area, with a tower 85 ft. high. It has numerous porches, veran- 
das, gables, balconies, and dormer-windows, forming a picturesque and 
broken sky-line ; and the steep roofs are covered with red New-Jersey 
tiles, with teri-a-cotta work along the ridges. It is built of cross-beam 
timbers with tlie lower story panelled and the upper parts covered with 
tiles. The interior of this quaint structure is occupied by committee- 
rooms, parlors, etc. 

Vermont is to have a French-roofed building 48 X 34 ft. in area, near 
the Uatliolic Fountain, with oflices, parlors, reading-room, etc. Tlie roof 
will be shaded by an awning, and covered with seats. 

The Pacific-Coast Centennial Hall is 115 x 45 ft. in area, with a dome 

43 ft. high, and has conveniences for visitors from the far West. 

The Catholic Total-Abstinence Union Fountain is on Fountain Ave. 
near Machinery Hall. It was designed by Kirn, and partly executed in 
the Austrian Tyrol, of white marble. In the centre is a colossal statue 
of j\Ioses standing on a mass of rocks, with a ro\ind water-basin below. 
At the outer corners are heroic statues of Commodore John Barry, Arcli- 
bishop John Carroll, Charles Carroll of Carrollton, and Father Matthew. 

The large and elaborate Bartholdi Fountain is in the geometrical gar- 
den between the Main and Maciiinery Buildings. The American Soldier 
is a granite statue 21^ ft. high (weighing 30 tons), on the terrace W, of 
Memorial Hall. 

A colossal bronze statue of John Witherspoon, D. D., President of 
Princeton College, Signer of the Declaration of Independence and IMem- 
ber of Congress during the Revolution, has been erected by tlie Presbyte- 
rians E. of Memorial Hall. The Episcopalians are also trying to get 
funds to i-aise a statue of Bishop White on these grounds. The Sons-of- 
Temjyerance Fountain is at the corner of Belmont and Fountain Aves., 
and will have a continuous flow of pure ice-water, with 26 faucets. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



&3 

CO 



w 




STANDARD 



prOOT i-l WASH. I 
^^ '2JZ 1 




i 



CO 



CO 






TO 



' (JOS.BUHMETT&COl> 




C3 



BURNETT'S KALLISTON, 

As a Wash for the Complexion, has no equal. It is distinguished for its cooling and 

soothing properties, and is admirably adapted to all unnatural 

conditions of the skin. 

THE KALLISTON IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AS 



A Wash for the Head, 

Cooling, cleansing, and refreshing. 

After Shaving, 

Softening the beard, and rendering the 
skin smooth. 

For Bites of Mosquitoes and 
other Insects, 

Neutralizing the poison almost instanta- 



After Sea-Bathing, 

Believing the disagi^eeaUe action of the salt 
water and the sun. 

For Chapped Hands, 

An elective application. 

In the Nursery, 

Peculiarly adapted to the bathing of in- 
fants. A few drops sufficient for a bowl 
of water. 



This preparation renders the skin soft, thereby relieving its glandular parts, and 
inducing that^Me action of the capillaries which imparts both beauty and health to 
the complexion. It may be relied upon for promoting a healthy condition of the 
skin and beautifying the complexion. 



ADVER TJSEME NTS. 



PORTLAND STEAIi PACKET COI^PANY. 

DAILY LIKE OP FiRST-CLlSS STEAMERS BETWEEN 

Boston and Portland 

THROUGHOUT THE YEAK. 



One of the first-class steamers of this Line, 

JOHN BROOKS, - - FALMOUTH, - - FOEEST CITY, 

Will leave India Wharf, Eoston, EVERY EVENING, Sundays excepted, 
connectiug, on arrival at Portland, with railway trains for 

North Conway, White Mountains, Gorham, N. H., Montreal, 

QUEBEC, AND AI.I. PARTS OF CANADA. 

ALSO WITH STEAMERS FOR 

Bangor, Mt.IJesert, Machias, Halifax, N. S., Prince Edward 
Island, Cape Breton, and St Johns, N. F. 

Returning, leave Portland EVERY EVENING for Boston (Sundays excepted). 

^W^ Tlirougli Tickets to tlie above points sold on board the 
steamers. 

The Steamers of this line are well ftirnishcd, and have a large number of elegant 
and airy State-rooms, and tourists will find this 

A MOST PLEASANT ROUTE TO THE IVIQUHTAINS, 

COMBINING A SHORT SEA-TRIP AND A RAILWAY RIDE. 



TIME or SAILING. 
Jjeave Boston, in Summer, at 7 P. M. In Winter, at 5 P. M. 
" Portland, at 7 P. M. throughout the year. 



WBI. WEEKS, Agent, J. B. COYtE, Jr., Gen. Ag't, 

INDIA WHARF, FRANKLIN WHARF, 

lioston. Portland. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 













^^g^£^>^-^ 



u 



AMERICAN" 



s®BT©a, 



CENTRALLY LOCATED. 

COT^-TAINS OVER FOUR HTJIS^DRED ROOMS. 



SUITES AND SINGLE APARTMENTS, WITH BATHING AND WA- 
TER CONVENIENCES ADJOINING. 



PARTICULARLY DESIRABLE FOR FAMILIES AND SUMMER 
TOURISTS. 



PASSENGER ELEVATOR IN CONSTANT OPERATION. 
READING-ROOM, BILLIARD-HALLS, AND TELEGRAPH-OFFICE. 



56 Hanover Street. 



AD VER TI SEME NTS. 




PARKER HOUSE, 

School Street 



HARVEY D. PARKER, 



BOSTON", 



ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN. 



^^^ The most comfortable Dining-Rooms and Restaurant, with the best 
service and cooking to be found in Boston. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



TREMONT HOUSE, 



Comer of Bea«oii and Tremont StSt, 



BOSTON. 




REVERE HOUSE, 



Bowdoin Square, 



BOSTON. 




.^ €t\ff W-^Y 




The above -well-estaMislied First-Class Hotels are now in perfect appoint- 
ment, and offer unsurpassed accommodations to tourist and traveller. 

CHAPIN, GURNEY, & CO., 

Proprietors. 



AL> VERTISEMEJ^TS. 




AD VERTISEMENTS. 



ST. MICHOLAS HOTEL, 

Broadway, New York, 

Is Tineqiialled hi size and appointments, having 500 rooms and 100 suites of 
apartments for private families, and accommodations for 1,000 guests, each 
apartment containing hot and cold water, and gas. 

THIS HOTEL IS ADMIRABLY LOCATED FOR BUSINESS OR 
PLEASURE TRAVELLERS. 

1^^ Passenger elevator connects with every floor. 

S. HAWK & CO., Proprietors. 







iipsiiii 




HOPPMAM HOUSE, 

HVIadisoii Scxiaai-e, > - - New Yorlc. 

EUROPEAN PLAM. 

Said by all travellers to Ice tlie best liotel in tlie Avorld. 

C. H. READ, Proprietor. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



Grand Hotel, 

Oor. 31st Street and Broad^way, 
NEW YORK. 



^ 




f mm 

mm 










A new house. The most elegant and convenient in New York, Splen- 
didly famished. Most favorably located for every purpose of business or 
pleasure. Near all Depots, Theatres, and the most fashionable stores. 

CONDUCTED ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN. 

HENRY MILFORD SMITH, Proprietor. 



AD VERT18EMENTS. 



FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL, 

NEW YORK, 

Fronting on Madison Park, Fifth Avenue, 
23d and 24th Streets. 

FIRST-CLASS IN EVERY RESPECT. 

Convenient to all the principal places of amusement, and of easy access 
from any portion of the city by horse-railroads and omnibus lines. 
Livery aU new, and the finest in the city. 

DARLING, GRISWOLD, & CO. 



*< BOOKS OF MAJRE AND DELICIOUS MITMOM,'* 

WARNER'S WRITINGS. 



MY SUMMER IN A GARDEN $1.00 

The Same. Illustrated by Darlet 3.00 

SAUNTERINGS. A Book of Travel Sketches in Europe 1.50 

BACKLOG STUDIES. Illustrated by Hoppin . . . 2.00 

BADDECK, and that Sort of Thing. Travel 

Sketches in British Provinces 1.00 

" Those who have read one of Mr. Warner's books will not probably need any 
persuasion to induce them to take up another. His wit and humor are always de- 
lightful, often full of surprises, and the flavor lingers long after the leaf has been 
turned on which the author had impressed it." — The Morning Star. 

*** For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the 

JAMES E OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



AB VERTISEMENTS. 



GRAND UNION HOTEL, 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

Will open June 1, at popular prices. 

BRESLIN, PURCELL, & CO. 

METROPOLITAN HOTEL, 

NEW YORK, 
Cor. Broadway and IPrince St. 

BOARD $4 PER DAY. 

BRESLIN, PURCELL, & CO. 

GILSEY HOUSE, 

NEW YORK, 
Cor. Broadv;ray and 29th. Street. 

ON THE EUROPEAN PI.AN. 

BRESLIN, GARDNER, & CO. 




WESTMINSTER HOTEL, 

on the european plan, 
Corner of Sixteenth Street and Irving Place, 

NEW YORK. 

The location of this house is one of the most central yet quiet in 
the city. Only one block from Union Square, and Tvithin easy walking 
distance of all the principal places of amusement, Tiffany's, Stewart's, 
Arnold and Constable's, Lord and Taylor's, and all the famous bazaars 
of the city. Has been enlarged and improved the past season by the 
addition of fifty new rooms. Passenger Elevator, etc. 

CHAS. B. FERRIN, Proprietor. 



AD VEETISEMENTS. 



CONTINENTAL HOTEL, 

9t]i and Cliestnut Streets, 

PHILADELPHIA. 

J. E. KINGSLEY & CO., Proprietors. 



This hotel, centrally located, is one of the largest and finest in the 
country. It has 500 rooms, and accommodations for 800 guests. It has 50 
parlors and chambers e.n suite, with haths, etc., attached. As a whole, it is 
one of the best ventilated and most complete in aU of its appointments of 
any hotel in the world. 

Terms, $4.50 per day. 



HOWELLS'S WRITINGS. 



Suburban Sketches. Illus- 
trated $2.00 

Venetian Life .... 2.00 

Their "Wedding Journey. 
Illustrated 2.00 



Italian Journeys . . .$2.00 

A Chance Acquaintance. 
Illustrated 2.00 

The Same. 18mo . . 1.50 
Poems 1.50 



"Mr. Howells deserves a place in the first rank of American travellers." — 
Pall Mall Gazette. 

" The great body of the cultivated public has an instinctive deli^-ht in original 
genius, whether it be refined or sensational. Mr. Howells's is eminently refined. 
His humor is the humor of a poet." — E. P. Whipple. 



*** For sale by BooTcsellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the 
Publishers, 

JAMES E. OSGOOB & CO., Boston. 



AL VER TI SEME NTS. 



The Grand Pacific Hotel, 

Opposite the Government Square and the new Federal Buildings, is without doubt the 
most perfect hotel structure in the world, and the largest edifice representing private 
enterprise in the United States. Its four fronts — on Jackson, LaSalle, Quincy,and 
Clark Streets — have an extent of ten hundred and twenty-two (1,022) feet. It was 
opened to the public on the 2d day of June, 1873, and has proved to its multitude 
of patrons, representing the best elements of the travelling community, the well- 
chosen and unsurpassed character of all its appointments and arrangements (of 
which special mention may be made of the Baths, Turkish, Electric, and Vapor), 
secured with a lavishncss of outlay, aided by experience and careful study, never 
before given to an enterprise of its class. The magnificence of the exterior, its great 
interior rotundas, superb public apartments, and unequalled suites of private rooms 
on its mile of corridors, the system and detail of its management, have not only 
won the pride and admiration of our citizens and guests, but furnish the key to the 
success of the Grand Pacific, which from the outset has never been equalled by 
any previous or contemporary enterprise. Central to all the great railway depots, 
the banks, wholesale stores, and places of elegant shopping, and amusements, it is 
at all seasons, by its lightness, spaciousness, and perfection of ventilation, the most 
comfortable as well as elegant home for the resident guest and tourist ever offered. 
And it will be maintained a.s it has begun, the most complete and perfect hotel in 
the world, — a claim for it sustained by the guests of the past eleven months, many 
of them our patrons since the opening of the former Sherman House, July 8, 1861. 

GEORGE W. GAGE, 
JOHN A. mCE, 

LCSSEES FOR 20 TEARS. 



AD VERTI SEME NTS. 



FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL, 

LAKE GEORQS. 



This magnificent Hotel, with accommodations for 900 persons, will be 
opened for guests June 1, 1876. To accommodate those who wish to spend 
the summer at the Lake, the price will be placed at the popular rate6 of 
from $2^ to $3^ per day depending on location. 

Sail and Steam Yachts, Small Boats, Carriages of all kinds, 
Saddle Horses, etc., can be had by inquiring at the oflBce. 

The Orchestra for the summer is one of the best in the country. 

Until June Ist, for plan of rooms, address "The Arlington," Wash- 
ington, D. C. 

T. ROESSLE & SON, 

Owners and Proprietors. 



'* He cometh unto you with a Tale tvhich holdeth children 
from plaijf and old men from the Chimney -Corner." — Sir 

Phitjp Sidney. 



ALDBICH'S WRITINGS. 



MARJORIE DAW, and Other People. Cloth, $1.50; 

Paper, $1.00. 
" These unapproachable stories." — Boston Courier. 

THE STORY OP A BAD BOY. Illustrated. $1..50. 

" An admirable siiecimen of what a boy's story should be." — Boston Advertiser. 

PRUDENCE PALFREY. With Picture of "Prudence" by 
Miss Hallock. Cloth, $ 1..50 ; Paper, $ 1.00. 

" He is master of the art of arresting the attention of the reader at the beginning, 
and of keeping it to the end, and this is due as much to his way of narrating as to 
the interest of his narratives. He is undoubtedly one of the most attractive and 
agreeable of story-tellers, and his stories are at the same time fresh, original, and 
artistically planned and executed, giving full play to all his faculties, humorous or 
poetic." — E. P. Whipple. 

*** For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the 
Publishers, 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



HOXJSEl EST^BLISHEr) 18S7. 



DIXON'S 

PATENTED AMERICAN 

GRAFHITK PSIVGIIkS 

3 grades of leads in Office styles. 

10 grades of leads in Art styles. 

FINE, SMOOTH, STRONG, PLEASANT. 



THE FOLLOWING CORRESPONDENCE SPEAKS FOR ITSELF. 
Mr. Knight is probably the most critical and technical expert in the use of pencils 
in this country, and received our samples with the natural prejudice against a new 
article ; tried them under protest, partaking, as we believe he did, of the wide-spread 
feeling that a really fine pencil has not yet been produced in the United States. 
But, with the true instincts of a high-toned critic, he does not hesitate to acknowl- 
edge merit, when fully convinced. 

U. S. Patent Office, 
Washington, D. C, March 5, 1874. 
I am using the best imported Siberian pencils and paying (S 18.00) eighteen dol- 
lars per gross for them. I have, for the production of the drawings used in my 
Dictionary, four draughtsmen who cannot be beaten in the United States for fine 
pencil-work. Your pencil V V H is quite up to the quality of the S? 18.00 imported ; 
it can hardly be better ; but my best draughtsman says it is perhaps a little better. 
We shall hereafter use none but your V V H, and I have experimented carefully. I 
send some of the drawings from which my cuts are made, to show you that I need 
the Best High-Grade Pencils at any price. 

The package containing H, V H, and V V II pencils came safely to hand, and some 
have been given to other bureaus in the Department, with everywhere a favorable 
verdict. I am, yours truly, EDWARD II KNIGHT, A. M., 

Examiner-in- charge of C^nssijicatioji and Official Pub/.icatio7is, U. S. Patent 
Office; Author of ^^ Knight^ s American Mechanical Dictionary.''^ 

Post-Office Department, 

(Topographical Division), Washington, D. C, March 31, 1874. 
Orestes Cleveland, Esij.: Sir, — Having made trial of the Dixon American 
Graphite Pencil in this Division of the Post-Office Department, I cheerfully add my 
testimony. W. L. NICHOLSON, Topographer P. O Department. 

The Undersigned concur in the above. 
C. H. POOLE, Assistant Topographer. A F. DINSMORE, Principal Draughtsman. 

Treasury Department, 

(Office op Supervising Architect), Washington, D. C, April 8, 1874. 
Orestes Cleveland, Esq. : Sir, — Having used Dixon's American Graphite Pencils 
in this Department, it affords me pleasure to add my testimony to the above. 

F. W. CHANDLER, Assistant Architect. 



THE ONI.Y PENCILS AWARDED 

THE GRAND MEDAL FOR PROGRESS 

AT VIENNA, 1S73. 

These fine pencils are rapidly taking the place of every other kind. For samples 
or information write to 

THE JOS. DIXON CRUCIBLE CO, 

Jersey CiSy, N. J. 

Manufacturers, for nearlv fifty years, of Dixon's Crucibles, Dixon's Stove 
Polish, L-umljer Pencils, and Plumbago, Black I.eacl, Graphite, 

for all iises. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



Pullman Cars and all Modem Improvements. 

CENTRAL VERMONT R. R. LINE 

IS THE 

Shortest, Quickest, and Best Route 

BETWEEN 

BOSTOiy AND i^ONTREAL, 

QUEBEC, OTTAWA, TORONTO, 
THE ADIRONDACKS, 

Tbousaud Islands, Lakes Cliamplain, George, St. Besis, 
Mempliremagog, Winnipiseogee, 

AND SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

Massena Springs, Alburgli, Higligate, Sheldon, St. lieon, 

Caledonia, and Clarendon Springs; also, 

the Green Mountains and 

WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

FOR 

Round Trip Kxcursions^ 

To all the above points, also including the 
Maritime Provinces, Coal and Iron Kegions of Pennsylvania, 

NIAGARA FALLS, 

The Great I^alces, Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, 
St. liouis, and Colorado, 

Call or send for the 

"SUMMER EXCURSIONIST," 

•WHICH CONTAINS OVER 

i o o o 

DIFFERENT EXCURSIONS TO AI.!, THE PRINCIPAIi 
SUMMER RESORTS, 

Free on application. Tickets and full information at the principal ticket ofRces in 
New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and at 

322 Washington Street, - - Boston Mass. 

T. EDWARD BOND, Ticket Agent. 

L. MILLIS, Gen. Sup't Traffic. S. W.^ CUMMINGS, Passenger Agent. 

St. Albans, Vt. 



AB VERTISEMENTS. 



THE GREAT 



BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD, 



HAYING EVER IN VIEW 



The Comfort and Welfare of its Patrons, 



Has already completed, and in course of construction, at con- 
venient points along its line, some of tlie 



FINEST HOTELS AND MEAL STATIONS 

IN THE COUNTRY, 

WHERE THE HUNGRY TRAVELLER 



FURNISHED WITH EVERYTHING THE MARKET 
AFFORDS, 



AMPLE TIME GIVEN TO ENJOY A 
SUMPTUOUS REPAST. 



S^= Dyspepsia Shops, and the old song, "Fifteen 
Minutes," &e., do not exist upon this Line. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 



WONDERFUL SUCCESS OF 

OR.T. FELIX GOURAUO'S "ORIENTAL CREAM, " 

OR 

]N/[agical Beantifier. 

ITS FAME IS RAPIDLY SPKEADINO OVER THE COUNTRY. 

See the avalanche of Testimonials, selected from thousands, in its praise, 

A Frencli lady writes : 

MoNS. GouKAUD, — 'Tis but an act of justice that I should spontaneously give you 
my unqualified testimonial of the united efficacy, innocence, and fragrance of your 
preparation for purifying and cleansing the sltin. By its use every pimple and freckle 
have vanished from my face. You should, Mon Ami, as it is so sovereign and charm- 
ing a remedy for scattering all blemishes from our faces, call it le delice des dames. En 
an motje suis enchante de le cosm,etiqae etfe?i vous remercie de tout mon coeur. 

Ejiille Dksmoulins, Madison Avenue. 

Tlie following from the Eminent Tragedienne, Mi's. D. P. Bowers. 

Dr. Gouraud, — Will you send six bottles of your " Oriental Cream " to the above 
address, not forgetting to be reasonable in price? Yours TruJy, Mrs. D. P. Bowers, 

The following from Mrs. Col. Young, I^ady of Col. Young, of 
"Young's Kentucky Cavalry." 

Dr. T. Felix Gouraud. Hamilton, Onio, July 7, 1850. 

Dear Sir, — .Some weeks since I wrote to you, enclosing the Sunday Despatch, 
with a notice of your valuable cosmetic, " Oriental Cream." I fear that you did not 
receive my communication ; if not, I shall be much pleased to hear from you, and also 
gratified to receive a half-dozen of your charming preparation for the complexion. 
Your "Oriental Cream " should be immortalized, as I have no doubt it is already by 
many a fair dealer in this charming device for rendering youth immortal. The wo- 
men are all crazy to know m}' recipe for a brilliant complexion. I have lost half of my 
good looks .already for the v/ant of this indispen'^able luxury, as I am travelling for 
the health of my little boy. Obediently yours, F. L. Young. 

From the Countess de Bierski, a Licading Society Lady. 

Dr. Gouraud. Rochkster, February 18, 1867. 

Dear Sir, — Please send me two more bottles of your charming " Oriental Cream," 
by American Express, and oblige Yours respectfully, Countess de Bierski. 

From Miss Fannie Stockton, the Prima Donna of the Opera House. 

Buffalo, December, 18(56. 
Dk. T. F. Gouraud, — I do not wish to put anything else in contact with my face, 
so delighted am 1 with this matchless cosmetique. Please send me ten bottles. 

Fannie Stockton. 

Dr. Gouraud, — I have found your " Cream" so delicious ; it softens and makes 
the skin so beautiful : it does give me faith in your other preparations. 

Miss Anna G***, Bangor, Me. 

Dr. T. Felix Gouraud, — 1 he " Cream" is the nicest wash for the skin ; it is ex- 
cellent. Mrs. E. Curtin, St. Louis. 

Dr. Gouraud, — Your "Oriental Cream" is perfectly delicious ; it is so cooling 
and refreshing. Mrs. Eaton, Boston. 

From Evans, the celebrated Perfumer, of Philadelphia. 

PiTiLADELUHiA, April 30, 1868. 
Dr. Gouraud, — I think your " Cream " is unquestionably the best thing in this line, 
from the reason, when ;i lady once uses it she continues it in preference to anythmg 
else. Our customers for it are regular ones. T find it is retailed by the druggists and 
fancy stores at 'I'avo Dollars a bottle yet. '1 here i^ more sold here than you are aware 
of. A¥hat is requirod i o insure a large sale is a lilx'ial amount spent in judicious ad- 
vertising. Let tln' ladies know its merits, and especially the price, and if they once try 
it we secure a regular customer. If I was the own u-, I would sell more of it in <his 
city than all the rest of the skin preparations put together. T. W. Evans. 



Prepared and invented bv I>K. T. FELIX GOURAUD, 48 Bond St., N. Y. 
Estabhshed 1839. To be hail of Druggists, &c. 

BEWARE OF countehfeits. 



A LIBRARY FOR ONE DOLLAR 

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 

LITERATURE, ART, SCIENCE, AND HISTORY. 



1. Tyndall on Light. Price, 10 cents. 

2. Beecher's Compulsory Education ; Phillips's Lost Arts ; Mark 

Twain's Sandwich Island Letters. Price, 10 cents. 

3. Illustrated — Prof. Wilder's Brain and Mind ; Prof. Barker 

on the Spectroscope ; Prof. Young on Astronomy, etc. 
Price, 10 cents. 

4. Weiss's Shakespearian Studies ; Parton's Pilgrim Fathers ; 

Bret Harte's Argonauts of '49. Price, 10 cents. 

5. Illustrated— Elsberg on Sound and Speech ; Raymond on the 

Seven Senses ; Park Godwin on True and False Science. 
Price, 10 cents. 
G & 7, Beecher's Yale Lectures. Price, 10 cents each. 

8. Illustrated — Agassiz on The Method of Creation. Price, 

10 cents. 

9. Illustrated — Proctor on Astronomy and Agassiz at Penikese. 

Price. 10 cents. ( Pamphlet Edition, 20 cents. ) 
10. Illustrated — The Annual Meeting (1873) of the American 
Association for the Advancement of Science. Price, 10 cents. 

14. Exploring Expeditions — Agassiz, Hayden, and Whitney. 

Price, 10 cents. 

15. Brown-Sequard on the Nerves ; Proctor on Astronomy; Dis- 

coveries at Ancient Troy. Price, 10 cents. (Pamphlet Edi- 
tion, 20 cents.) 

16. The BrookljTi Congregational Council. Price, 10 cents. 

17. Metropolitan Sermons. Price, 10 cents. (Pamphlet, 20 cents.) 
20. Metropolitan Sermons (No. 2.) Price, 10 cents. (Pamphlet, 20 

cents.) 

(H^^ The entire Extra Series above described sent by mail 
for One Dollar. 

12. The Evangelical Alliance (32 pages). Price, 25 cents. 

] 8. Sumner Eulogies by -Schurz, Elliott, Lamar, etc. Price, 5 cents. 

10. National Academy of Science ; Brown-Sequard, Hammond, 

etc. Price, 10 cents. (Pamphlet, 20 cents.) 
J^^^ Additional Extra sheets, containing Credit Mobilier reports 
ind the popular novels, "May," by Mrs. Oliphant ; and "A Pair of 
Blue Eyes," and " Lords and Ladies," Each by mail, 10 cents. " The 
Wooing O't " (20 pages), 20 cents. 

Address rpHE TRIBUNE, 

_ ^-~ NEW YORK. 



Pennsylvania Railroad. 

GREAT TRUNK LINE 

AMD 

UNITED STATES MAIL ROUTE 

BETWEEN THE 

ATLANTIC SEABOARD, THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY, 
AND THE GREAT LAKES. 



THE MOST SPI.EIVDIDLY EQUIPPED 

AND 

Best Constructed Railway Lina 

IN THE UNITED STATES. 

Double Track and Stone Ballasted, laid with solid 
Sleepers and heavy Steel Kails between New York and 
Pittsburg. 

Bridges of Iron and Stone, and all material used in con- 
struction subjected to the closest inspection and highest tests. 

Westingliouse Air-Brake attached to all passenger 
trains, and 

A Perfect System of Safety Signals. 



PULLMAN DRAWING-ROOK, SLEEPING, AND PARLOR CARS 

RUN ON ALL EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEEN 

New York, Philadelphia, Washington, Baltimore, and Chicago, 
Cincinnati, Louisville, Indianapolis, and St. Louis, 

WITHOUT CHANGE. 



The Scenery on this Route; 

FOR GRANDEUR, BEAUTY, AND VARIETY, 

IS UNSURPASSED IN THE WORLD. 

TH30UGH TICKETS FOR SALE AT LOWEST RATES, 

At the Ticket Offices of tlie Company in the principal cities of the 
United States. 

A. J. CASSATT, General Manager. 
D. M. BOYD, Jr., Gen'l Pass. Agent. 1 






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